Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Huh? What? Did somebody say something? -C. - Original Message - From: "Historical Costume" To:"Historical Costume" Cc: Sent:Thu, 17 Dec 2015 01:17:40 -0500 Subject:[h-cost] Is h-costume still going? Hi all, Is h-costume still going? I’m trying to change my e-mail address for it, but the link below does not work. Thanks! -Carol > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] post-mortem photos
What a bright and cheery way to start the year. Was the cross added by family or could it be a mark made by the photographer for the touch-up artist? Maybe not, it looks more like a Christian cross than an X Either way, speaking as someone who has just spent a week dressing human forms filled with ballistics gel latex (don't ask), it is possible to prop something human-shape in the way shown in the photograph. Loose clothing is the key. To be really morbid, could one of the kids be holding the boy's upper body up? Still, my vote on this one is vertical pole behind, probably using the belt to hold the bulk of the weight. Keeping the upper body from flopping over is the problem. It brought to mind the pic seen here: http://artsearch.nga.gov.au/Detail.cfm?IRN=40548 http://bluerangestudio.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Joe-Byrne-on-door-close-up-260x430.jpg http://bluerangestudio.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Joe-on-Door-side-view-300x217.jpg the body of Joe Byrne, member of outlaw Ned Kelly's gang, suspended for public viewing and for photographers on a police station door a day or two after death (late June, 1880. Cause of death, bullet wound, body then subjected to building fire). Aside to self: I wonder how scholarly we would be if the portrait of the child were a more recent pic., -C. - Original Message - From: Historical Costume To:Historical Costume Cc: Sent:Fri, 16 Jan 2015 12:11:23 -0500 Subject:Re: [h-cost] post-mortem photos It isn't impossible. Difficult, yes. But not impossible. As any EMT worker can tell you. Yes, it is difficult. But that's why you used things like stands, or straps. http://cabinetofcuriosities.ca/pictures-of-the-dead-the-truth-about-post-mortem-photography/ On Fri, Jan 16, 2015 at 7:08 AM, mhprobe...@gmail.com wrote: This question made me curious because I've seen so many photos labeled PM when I thought they weren't. And of course I stare with same morbid curiosity as the next person (Thanatos?)! But standing poses - I don't know. It's practically impossible to hold an unconscious person upright - I know this - so imagine a corpse. To make the costume connection, it's also difficult to dress one! Anyway, these links were the first to come up. Interesting. http://mourningportraits.blogspot.com/p/hoaxes-scams-ebay-optimism.html http://www.pinterest.com/angelusmortis2/post-mortem-photography-no-you-dont-see-dead-peopl/ Melissa Roberts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- http://dirtygirldesigns.wordpress.com/ http://www.etsy.com/shop/dirtygirldesigns ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] anybody know curti? Venetian slang for mid-range social climbers????
Hmm ... In Latin is means small or short; From the usage, though, it could refer to part of a house/member of a house which tallies with social standing, -C. Subject:[h-cost] anybody know curti? Venetian slang for mid-range social climbers reading Shadow of the Lion, set in 1530-ish Venice... this term sounds kind of clothing-related but also indicates social status? like, nouveau-riche?? I HAVE just spent a while googling for a definition, but no luck. The specific line that has inspired me to try to get specific here is : Curti like the Brunelli would never settle for lesser curti. (The Brunelli are a powerful family, but still curti, NOT casa vecchie; would not marry down to a lesser curti house.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The White Queen
Headwear can be difficult to light, or at least the face under it ... but then Gone With the Wind'd have you believe someone from the 1930s had a time machine and took stuff back, -C. - Original Message - From: Historical Costume To: Cc: Sent:Sun, 11 Aug 2013 13:17:59 -0700 Subject:Re: [h-cost] The White Queen The White Queen would have you believe that ALL the men at court, along with about 90% of the women, went around bareheaded all the time. WTF?? On 8/11/2013 11:00 AM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: -- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 15:34:07 -0700 From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Review of The White Queen Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Very amusing review of The White Queen, including the costumes: http://www.sfgate.com/default/article/White-Queen-review-Royally-entertaining-romp-4717571.php Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
Just some flashy wrestling tights -- same old same old ... -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?
Nah, it all ended after the Mayan calender. Didn't you notice? -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Leather. It has a more interesting life than I do! -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1880s city wear (was new Anna Karenina)
Any other period films coming out? ABC TV here in Australia has just adapted Mystery of a Handsome Cab, a murder mystery set in Melbourne during the 1880s boom years. Some of the costuming is pretty good given budgets and stock items for some characters, covering both the wealthy and slum dwellers. Production design was pretty good, too, redressing some less-developed parts of the inner suburbs to double as the city in those days. May be hard for non-Australians to find (check out the Australian Broadcasting Commission web site, it may still be up for online viewing). It may also be on torrent sites if you dare. As a side note, same organisation adapted the Phryne Fisher murder mystery books (wealthy female investigator, 1920s) as a series earlier this year, not badly done, too, although the heroine was more annoying than in the books. Available on DVD for Christmas, probably. It looks like the ABC is going back to funding historical/period dramas, -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Viking embroidery machines software
And all this time I thought I was about to read something about Scandanavian needlework, -C. I just want to clarify that we're talking about the same issue. The machines do have a USB port (either factory installed or retro ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
I have had several Husquvanas (presently an Optima 190) if you are not going for an industrial type and all have been great and have the features you list. The buttonholing is basic, that is, shirt style not keyhole. Maintenance has been simple, bobbin/shuttle are vertical, the thing has a little weight which is useful. The bobbins are an unusual size but easy to find. You get a good range of foot attachments and tension options and it is easy to operate. As said, I have had several of this brand and all have served well. Having said that, I also have a 1960/70s department store branded machine which is solid as a rock, sews zig-zag and straight without fuss, cost nothing second hand, can be fixed by a one-armed monkey, and goes like the clappers, -C. - Original Message - From: Historical Costume To:Historical Costume Cc: Sent:Sun, 2 Sep 2012 17:35:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject:Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine I bought a used Bernina 1008 of of ebay a few years ago, and loved it! Its since moved to backup status due to a parts issue, and I purchased a Necchi at the recommendation of my sewing machine repair guy (who was a big fan of Necchi's). Love both of the machines, but if you want a rugged workhorse, I'd go with a Bernina 1008, it will sew anything, and is a great machine. - Marion From: Lavolta Press To: Historical Costume Sent: Sun, September 2, 2012 6:53:54 PM Subject: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine I do not want a serger, or an embroidery machine. I want a machine with the following features: * Metal body * Durability * Infrequent need for service * Not quirky * Really good straight stitch * Zigzag capability * Easy buttonholes * Ability to sew both light and heavy fabrics easily, including crossing seams * Free arm or narrow bed? so I can sew sleeves easily * Probably the ability to lower the feed dogs * Mechanical machine, except I'm confused about the term. Even the mechanical machines (new not vintage) clearly have some computerization * A machine that doesn't try to make my decisions for me! * Probably a new machine, since I don't want to inherit someone else's problems and want to be able to get parts easily * Good track records. I have bought two expensive machines (over time) that were supposedly good machines from reputable manufacturers, yet they turned out to be a chronic PITA I am considering the Bernina 1008, since as far as I can tell the 1015 is no longer made. But clearly other manufacturers are also making mechanical machines. Thanks for any advice. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] white glue
it away. Appologies for what may be a regionally based error of judgement on my part. The white glue you refer to must be different from the one I am familiar with from NZ.This is the one used in the woodwork shop. It is used to glue dowels.It is watered down and used as a sealer.It is used on school projects to hold paper creations together.It dries clear and can be combined with paint to make lift-off window stickers like the purchased Christmas decalsI guess this may well be another case of the generic product being a poor copy of the original, which I would be happy to use on a hat. RegardsLynlee In Australia, we call it PVA as in, Chuck us the PVA, ya mug or I'll brain ya. It's also good, from my childhood memories for assembling model kits -- it is less likely to stain or melt your fuselage or canopy and, watered down, is a great adhesive for papier mache if wall paper paste is not to your liking -- just remember to chuck in a slosh of bleach to prevent mould, -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!
You know, I have never heard of problems with the old coal basket style that were heated with lumps of coal and/or on the combustion stove top. Maybe go back to them? I have one as a door stop (iron, not stove) I can put back into action, -C. - Original Message - From: Historical Costume To:Historical Costume Cc: Sent:Tue, 22 May 2012 23:24:32 -0700 Subject:Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons! Maybe we should start an iron company, making them the way they used to. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Mary + Doug Piero Carey Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 6:58 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons! Yes, many times that's just what I do. But I should not have to! What torques my temper is that I had irons all through the 70s 80s that DID NOT DO THIS, and I abused them far worse than my last several irons. There is NO D@MN BLUIDY excuse for purportedly high-end modern irons to fail in this way when cheap irons made 40 years ago didn't fail this way. Mary, muttering grumbling grousing On 5/21/2012 10:18 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Use the iron dry, do not fill, do not put on steam, use a spray or sprinkle bottle separately. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!
'As to sad irons, how you gonna heat the coal? You have to be really This is getting ridiculous. At the store this afternoon I saw packs of 15 small coal pellets in a roll the size of a bicycle handle. Is the universe trying to tell me something? -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] %$#* irons!
And what is it with the spitting dripping? Easily solved with the word from the foreman at the industrial laundry I worked at when I was 13 -- Jeeze, and you thought Dickens characters had it bad! Use the iron dry, do not fill, do not put on steam, use a spray or sprinkle bottle separately. Oh, and don't slip over and slide on your backside into the side of a gigantic spin drier like he once did, -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Grrrrr ... !
Guddammut, time for a Cartman-like rant: Those *%$$! bxstards at the #@^$! supermarket have stopped stocking %(#! starch. Real starch, not that %$!@)( spray lubricant. You bxstards! -C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] School boy's hat
How about contacting the skool ... ? -C. Quoting Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com: I was helping my friend move her mom out of the house she's been living in for 40 years and we came across her dad's old school hat. He was born in England in 1919, so the hat is probably from about 1929 or so. It is made of wool, half black or dark navy and half white (now yellowed a bit from age). Even the button on top is half dark and half light! It has a crest on the front. My friend says her dad attended Spring Grove Secondary Modern School, in Houndslow. It has a label inside reading,Warren Bros. Hatters and Hosiers, 247 High Street, Houndslow. It also says, Unbreakable Rubber Peak, but the rubber is a bit crackly now. The hat is fully lined with a yellowish twill. My question is, would anyone want it? My friend was going to throw it in the garbage, but I thought someone on this list might be interested. Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yo
Must be spam, I am one of the 4,000,000 who live in Melbourne and I've never met her, -C. Quoting Sid Young sid.yo...@gmail.com: More spam? On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 12:14 AM, picma...@bellsouth.net wrote: h-cost...@indra.com this is something to look into http://newsl3tonight.com/ see ya ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
An old Props Dept. tag I had laying around, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 70's prom dresses
Where I went to skool, it was Lee jeans, a Miller shirt (both ironed as it was a special occasion) and platform shoes with turn-up toes. The boys wore pretty much the same with the addition of a leather jacket or waist-length double- breasted zip-up lumber jacket that could be loaned to a girl if it looked like they might get lucky -- not that anyone knew what lucky actually was, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Venting a bit: sourcing
Email her and ask her for instruction on how to draught a double, waist- reducing vent just to irk her, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help identifying picture
Would love to see the thing up close but it looks like a portrait painted from a photograph as was very popular with infomercials a few years back. Style seems to represent an absent-minded person in a time machine who has visited Renaissance, Victorian and 1830s all on the same day ... days ... time(s) ... Jeeze, I hate time travel, -C. Has anybody ever seen this before? http://images.cheezburger.com/imagestore/2010/9/9/330d9013-0b7f-468b-9c3a-b22044bb4e02.jpg This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency men's white stockings
They are hideously expensive, but are almost indestructible. I think they are called compression socks, or some such, and they can be found in the travel section of places like Target and various pharmacies, or with the footcare section. I bought two pair of Slazenger compression socks, three bucks a pair -- oh, the joys of mis-priced stock! The weave may be a problem for Costume Nazis but a great option if you can find your colour, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency men's white stockings
Depending upon how historically accurate you need to be, you may try some of the high-end erotic lingerie suppliers [Q or Queen size for larger cuts], -C. in the Fall. But I have not been able to find a source for those white stockings. I used some white knee socks once in Sound of Music but they This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: corset and breast augmentation surgery
Isn't this a question that the breastee (patient) should ask the breaster (doctor)? -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costumes in Dangerous Liaisons
: Subject: [h-cost] costumes in Dangerous Liaisons : the beginning scene where they were dressing. Were they sewing her into : her bodice? : Natalie Quite a common way to be dressed for the upper classes in earlier times -- closest I ever got was my mother sticking pins into me when she was making something, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Your family and costuming genes
Hmm... My mother was a great one for sewing, being of that generation who could make their own clothes regardless of the stupidity of the patterns of the day. She was also pretty good at firing pins across the room as she worked rather than use the pin tin. I spent my childhood pulling pins out of my feet. I still have the first costume she made for me, a red injun for a school play, a compendium of wheat sacks, coloured wool and an elastic headband [(sans headband these days) why they cast a redheaded kid at the Cherokee is anyone's guess]. She also taught me how to use a Singer treadle, knowledge which led me to work out how to dismantle, repair and re-assemble almost any machine around, and do it to my industrials without losing a finger or two. She worked in an industrial laundry, starting out doing repairs and packing then into the office as clerk and as operator of that new giant computer thing in the early 1970s. I worked there during school holidays then for half a year when I left skool. My duties included formal shirts, special starching, and using odd-shaped presses and steamy pipes to crease shirts, formal bibs and the like -- it probably accounts for my anal attitude towards use of the iron these days. So, in my case, I probably picked up a taste of this thing I now do way back then. Quoting penn...@costumegallery.com: I was re-reading Margo's post and it got me to thinking...How many of our family members are enjoying costuming since we became a member of h-costume? Or maybe inherited the costuming gene? If so what kind of costuming? All my kids like getting into costumes...sometimes for no real reason. We were lucky to have inherited my husband's family costume bag. My grandchildren go straight to the bag...now totes of costumes to play in when they visit us. Their closets are full of their own costumes. My 5 y.o granddaughter wears her costumes everywhere...to school, church, the store, etc. My 9 y.o. granddaughter has started sewing and is very passionate about it. My son, Patrick, is the one who inherited the most costuming genes. I didn't know until I saw the playbill but he was designing the costumes for his high school plays. He made his first costume for an anime convention and won an award for construction. He has worked in the costuming retail industry for 4 yrs as a manager of Spirits Halloween stores. This year Pat went back to college for theater technology. He has been awarded full scholarships for college. Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 14 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] These boots are made...
Seems like this sorta thing gets posted every four or five years: I have noticed ladies ankle-length boots with a moderate heel and button-up look are back in fashion again...again. Seen have been black and light tan. May be useful for sans Costume Nazi Victorian-Edwardian looks, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sherlock
Medical historians...ones who also knew that Dr Quinn did not cure all known diseases, -C. Was this opinion based on modern medicine or medicine known at the time? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sherlock
I think Watson often gets short shrift. Short shrift at the beginning of a series leaves room to develop; However, he plays a vital part in Holmes's investigations, including giving medical information on both the dead, and the traumatized I have read reviews of the Holmes books in which medicos have researched Watson's skills. From what I have read, I would not want Watson on the same continent as me, let alone treating me! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sherlock
On the other hand, I'm not sure I would like seeing a modernized version . . . Updated Holmes is one of the oldest tricks in the book...even Hollywood did it with fanfare with the Rathbone series in the late-30s/early-40s. I did not mind the pilot but thought it would make a good occasional bit of viewing rather than a series given the zapping around the screen and the oddball split-screening directors have fallen in lust with over the last decade -- stop trying to find ways to excite us and just excite us. Still, the performances are strong enough to let your memories of previous versions slip away for the duration. Holmes as a sociopath worked well, Watson as an old warrior did so too. The Moriarty hints were nice but Mycroft stuck out like dog's whatsits. I never watched the second and third episodes due to work but probably would if it did not mean doing anything more than flicking the TV switch. I guess that's the whole review: good, watchable but you would not go out of your way for it, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Making historical mannequins
http://lacma.wordpress.com/2010/10/14/fashioning-mannequins/ Great post, thanks for the opportunity to see it, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A place to buy old-fashioned eyeglasses in San Francisco
Be careful you don't pick up Admiral Kirk's ones...he'll need them in the future, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] WW1-WW2 German military formalwear? Now: Austrian, pre-WWI
Although some of their detail can be dodgy, Osprey Publishing may be worth looking into. They often have colourful renderings that may be used as tertiary, some photos and general descriptions...ospreypublishing.com from memory. The big question, though, is why not go to the source, contact the Austrian government and hunt down some contacts? -C. Does anyone know of a resource with photos or drawings of Austrian uniforms (no necessarily dress) for the period from the late 1800s to just before... WWI? There seems to be a big gap in what's published between Napoleanic and WWI. , This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sharpening Shears...OT
Hmm, the shears have been out in Canberra lately! -C. Sharon Doig in Canberra - Australia E: po_box_...@yahoo.com.au This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] shears
Don't go through your fabric store, go to a good local tailor and ask where they get thier shears repaired -- it's not just sharpening, it is also re=setting the things, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gray Line Linen
Umm...in Australia, Gray Line is the brand used by Grayhound Bus Lines, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Google sewing headers
Joke's on them, it's 2 April here and they are doing it including the local page, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jodhpurs Pattern?
http://www.harriets.com/wwipatterns.htm I note this appears to have a side-buttoning, if any buttoning at all, rather than the traditional front-buttoning bottom. Anyone got a thought on this; is it for the simpler cut in making or can there be a practical aspect of naval aviation of the time to consider? -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 20th c. Men's Hats
So, what do you call the billed, low-profile caps similar to (but more streamlined) the one on Redford in the Great Gatsby? I always associate Melbourne, Australia, early 1970's. If you did not have one of these, you weren't cool. But then, we also went in for flat-front cuffed baggies, contis, Acropolis shoes and platform turn-ups. Ah, those were the days.. -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jodhpurs Pattern?
I have a great set of tailoring manuals, The Modern Tailor Outfitter by Percival Thickett; this contains a great pattern for jodhpurs if you don't mind the trouble of draughting -- even my dodgy legs look goot sticking out from them -- you may be able to find the books at a larger library. Oh, it also has some photos of pleasing window displays, information on accounting for tailors and photos of a good tailoring workshop -- good if you have a staff of a hundred and enough room to store an aircraft! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vintage police uniform
A co-worker of my mother-in-law has recently bought and renovated a 1929 studebaker and would like to have a matching vintage uniform to go with it. You'll never get away with it, security cameras can see under those old brims and, besides, the different car alone is a dead give away, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] victorian gown?
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6097-products-10908.php?page_id=96 Is any part of this dress based on anything victorian? Or is this a copy of a movie costume? Yeah, sorta, well, kind'a maybe... Victorian was a pretty big slab of years, covering 2-3 generations which equals even more changes of fashion styles. That sleeve shape was used in some later Victorian but not with that bottom half; the bustle-like effect of what seems to be rushing suggests something Victorian; etc. You can find it if you look but, as question suggests, the thing is not Victorian per se, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question: Regency trains?
There were none in Australia, the first railways here opened in the 1850s, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What to name a dressmaker's dummy
Welll.. I usually go for sopme disambiguation that relates to the dummy or its purchase: There is Rachel and Julie, mannequins named before I got them; There is Bridey, named as she is Princess Brand dressmakers dummy; There is Bob for Bob May who was in the Lost in Space robot, a tailor's dummy; There is Robbie, another robot, store mannequin and my exact torso measurements; There is Die, a display bust who looks uncannily like the Princess of Wales; There is Gort, actually a big grey robot-humaniod somewhere between The Day the Earth Stood Still and a traditional Cylon; There is Tragedy, another bust who is sort of looking up in pain; Springey, fibreglass and named for the suburb she was purchesed in; and Coast to Coast, named as someone had pasted beer coasters over her breasts before I purchased her (for a slab of beer, coincidentally). If I left anyone out, I will let you know. Also there are several hands, all named Thing, and a head called Irving. Aren't you sorry you asked? -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Hmm, well... I have just done a clean up of the workshop so, no matter what the dummy is wearing, you'll be able to see the floor at its feet. All the plastic tubs are freshly stacked so, with luck, the dummies will not be crushed by the Great Wall from China. On the male at the moment is a sequined and lame and feathered entrance robe for a pro wrestler; The female is half-in a spikey leather corset. What I'll do for money, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What is this woman making?
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ol-58sQg9RMLMYpBYDFiBg?feat=directlink Mini rugby goals for a table-top tiddly-winks game, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trade Journals
What is a tennis neckline for women? Higher, rounded neckline, often with a small centre slit. Menswear: What is a d-b blazer? What does the d-b stand for? Double-breasted, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chalking a line
Not on fabric but it works well on building sites, -C. My idea to mark the placement of these lines involves a chalk line snapped against the silk that can then be marked with a disapearing Anyone done anything like this on fabric? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sound of Music
Oh, if only they had looked behind the tombstone! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How do I wash?
Dry clean or hand wash with wool wash, cool to cold water, line dry, press lightly, -C. I just bought some 100% wool gabardine. I'd like to machine wash it, but am worried I might mess it up. I was thinking--Cold water, tumble dry low. Is This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Metallic thread head to head
I have had best luck with Madeira, a German brand. I remember using Superior years ago for something and do not recall any problems. Funnily enough, the very best results I have had using this kind of thread is for large zig-zag projects (lines and lines on metallic ribbon, for instance) on an ancient (okay, late-1960s vintage) department store-branded machine with a larger size sharp needle. Of course if 1960s is ancient, I am very ancient, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Kimonos, etc.
For cultural value, a museum is the place to go. For market value, a commercial auction house. That's the reality of the world. Any documentation, transport notes, old receipts and the like may be of use, -C. kimonos, sashes, etc. (I know nothing about Japanese clothing) She says they were brought over from Japan right after WWII. She wants to sell them on e-bay, but has no idea how much to ask. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Curtain tape as costume supply item?
If it's the stuff I'm thinking of, it makes perfect verticals for a crinoline, slip your hoop wire through at even graduations with no need for nipping and tucking along the length, -C. It is about 7/8 wide, with a single cord about 1/4 from one edge. When pulled, the cord forms a consistent gather, not any sort of pleat or smocked effect. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Ye olde modern art WAS Research, Primary so on
I have been doing some publicity for EB Games/Game Depot lately which is odd seeing I don't have a damned idea about video and computer games nor any interest in playing the things, however, has anyone seen the previews for Assassin's Creed 2, an up-coming video game? It is set in northern Italy, late 1400s. There was something suspicious about the woman wearing red in the preview video (see it at thier site or go into a game store, tell 'em I sent you!) so I went back to some old research and was a bit surprised... Whoever designed the game look has actually done more than gone to a Ren Faire, the woman is not a bad animated match for some Durer sketches of that period -- or maybe just the Moonlighting Taming of the Shrew ep! The lushness and textures impress me. Still, there is something about the briefly-seen costume that annoys me although I cannot put my finger on it. Fall of gown? Shape in general? I dunno. Anyone else seen it and have an opinion. Oh, and by the way, I am not citing it as a great example of historical reproduction, just a curiosity, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] men's suit size?
Unless there have been extreme alterations: Chest: Around the chest (!), a line pretty much level with the bottom of the armpits; Jacket length/back length/waist length: From the bottom of the collar to the waistline (usually the narrowest part of the jacket). Trousers can be more difficult but try these two to see if any adjustments may have been made: Check the cuffs for indications of former creasing; Check the back seam between the seat and waist for indication of any former stitching, -C. On a contemporary (or for that matter, vintage) man's suit, once the tags are off, how do you tell what size it was sold as? I realize that most of them have been altered somewhat to the individual, but where do you measure the jacket for chest? length? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question about a portrait
This is a portrait I haven't seen before... of Lady Jane Grey. http://www.bitterwisdom.com/ladyjanegrey/life/panel-2-lady-jane-grey.jpg I found this and like the doublet style. Can anyone tell me what the white things are on the shoulders? What can you tell me about the making of this Something fishy about this. The portrait looks like some kind of collectors card, poster of the like, or a copy of some original. Some of the gown shaping seems to be simplified by the artist. I suspect that the white things are a single shawl over the shoulders and tucked or held under the arms. Historically accurate or not, it looks like a good project to play around with, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset for a man
I am asked to make experiments with a romantic era corset - for a man! So far I only found information in Waisted Efforts, but I am sure there are other sources somewhere else. Any recommendations or things to consider when lacing a man? I have been called upon to make a few of these in my time, both for fetish clients (modified female and dressy male types) and for historical clients (mid- late 1800s) as well as male girdles for wear under modern clothing. Your question is pretty general for the moment: What do you mean by romantic era? Generally, you need to decide the waist height for the period you are looking at and ensure the tapering is suitable to get that look; I have made them 12 panels around and 16 panels around, high-chest to just below the waist, lacing to the back. I could not find any patterns but was lucky enough to see one in a private collection and have a few pics to go from...sorry to say, you are going to have to drape with trial and error then devise your pattern from that! If I can send you some of the pics offlist, let me know, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset for a man
Andy Warhol wore a corset after he was shot. For the rest of his life, I think. Then Captain Kirk was shot, too? -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer
Hmm, this is why all clothing should be made of leather or denim...no need for stabilizers! Still, if you are committed, a few things I have had luck with are: Teflon foot (helps reduce resistance between foot-side and feed-side); Stiff but see-through tissue paper on top and/or underneath; and (personal favourite) Masking tape, the really textured type that will pull away easily). Still, a leather and denim prom dress? Hmm, could be a match for my old Harley Davidson Star Trek uniform, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need info on fabric yarn storage
See-through lockable plastic tubs may be the go, I use 55 to 70 litre size -- you can see what's in them and they each hold a reasonable amount and are easy to manage. You will find the 70 litre better suited to denser fabrics (upholstery and so on) which just don't fold down as well as regular and more modern fabrics. The larger ones are also good for leather and other items you wish to avoid folding too much. If using tubs, it sounds like you are needing enough to buy direct at a wholesale price, stay away from retailers, even the big Home Depot kind of place, if you can as they will have mark-ups. Always buy the same size tubs and the same brand -- different brands have different shaped bases and lids which may affect your stacking options I recall hearing from the dim dark ages of my family that grated mild soap will keep out bugs, which may be preferable to napthalene. If you must use napthalene, buy flakes, not balls -- more effective spread and better value. Consider adding moisture-absorbent silica or similar pillows. Buy them from a genuine packaging company, not the hardware store, and get advice on whether they are right for your use, and dosages, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats back on head
There are probably caricatures of hats being worn back on the head, but the fashion was straight. It may not have been a fashion or a norm but an occasional practicality: While working in a hat, I will occasionally push it back for a better view or to keep it secure while bending, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hook Eye closures (was Club for enthusiasts o...)
Ps: does anyone know a really easy way to securely and evenly attach the corresponding hooks of hook and eye Have you tried hook and eye tape? I've seen two kinds, one is rather flimsy, studs. I've heard it works well, but I've not bought any yet. I tend to Hook and eye tape is great, even used for corsetry during the Roman empire, according to Gladiator. It is easy to use for a good line-up of hooks and eyes. The colours of the tape are limited but you can usually dye the white stuff to suit. You can also place the stuff inside your garment with only the metal showing if you are very careful. The only real problem comes with machine sewing, the studs can be lumpy under the machine foot or push you off course; try a one-sided foot, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] lining in tricorn hats.
I have seen unbleached fabric lining. I do recall a British navy regulation of the 1790s calling for white silk lining for officer ranks. In reality, as time went on and silk went up in price, any suitable white fabric was acceptable. This really screws things up as my only navy bicorn dated to the early 1800s has bare remnants of a dark silk lining and a tiny bit of white cloth that may have been a name tag. Remember if you do use white our modern whites are not the same, there were no fluro dyes and rinses back in ye good old days before the invention of the flush dunny, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's on the horizon (Erte)
Maybe they should try some Erte designs Yeah, let's melt their hard drives getting all those beads to swing and sway, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats ....round heads ...not! ..maybe...
Weren't the majority of the hats for the era, merely carried under the arm or in the hand,as a sort of fashion accessory? So if not actually worn,it Of course they were worn. I have seen the comic book version of Robert Newton in Treasure Island and he is wearing one so it must be true, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats
The tricorn origin was just pinning up wide-brim hats until the floppy bits were out of the way. The most common of what we call a tricorn had a dome crown (cylindrical is not unheard of but the dome is the most common). So: Grab a hat that matches your size requirements. If you have a larger one, pin it up and cut the brim; Wet the thing with felt stiffener (there are several brands, all stink to high heaven so do it outdoors or in a ventilated area), set the shape that you want and leave it to dry; As a tip, if you do not have a reliably heavy hatblock or mannequin head to leave it dry upon, use a ball of the right size; Add decoration and edging when dry, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers
Both buttons and zippers were in use by this time. Buttons require a little more plackett work but always sit better. If you are after a more formal or up-market look, I'd suggest buttons. As a side thought, with zippers relatively new to the scene then, I wonder how fancy they might have been seen as or how much of a gimmick, -C. would have had a buttoned fly or already zippers in 1933. Any ideas? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] More on fur...
the trimmed bellies of Norwegian grey squirrels Sounds like a dish in a fancy restaurant, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rabbit - was: What kind of fur would you use for this?** NOT BUN!
Someone told me that rabbit (and cat) are one of the few furs that sheds I used rabbit(s) for a cape over my Arthurian cavalry armour many years back (I figure they did not just kill dragons) and it is still in one piece, no shedding. Tanning quality perhaps? I dunno but after 15 years I am still able to handle it roughly, -C. PS: Maybe it was a Python rabbit? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT-Equus heads and hooves
Traditionally in the show, the horses are people carrying/wearing wire or cane or other cage-like pieces to give the impression of horses rather than create anatomically correct horses or, ghod forbid, panto horses! I have also seen it done with papier mache heads and conical cups around the ankles. I did make some hooves for a costume (Satan) about ten years back. They were carved from light timber (pine) in four sections then glued and screwed before painting. The inside shape was similar to a high-heel shoe so that the foot sat with the heel higher with the foot at a diagonal, not the most comfortable solution but the most appropriate for scale -- remember you hoof must sit well visually against the ankle. These hooves were then strapped around and up the ankle. I wanted the clip-clop sound so avoided some sensible rubber on the bottom but did place some grooves there to give a little traction. The main thing is to closely look at a horse hoof to see how they look, get the profile right, and remember the underside which has a lot of shape and texture. You can hide the ankle strapping under some hair -- think Clydesdale but not so thick, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What period/country etc is this tunic?
I kind'a like the time travelling 1970s university student at the far right, -C. http://tinyurl.com/brvg4j This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Not hosting Oscars but I am commentating this weekend so I thought I'd freshen the look up with a gold brocade waistcoat (oh, and it's almost autumn), -C. It's Oscar weekend, theater season, it's almost spring. There must be something! This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie?
Looks like what I call my amoeba tie, -C. Yes! That was it! Even when it was everywhere, yellow was not the power tie. And here's that nasty yellow color: http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-BROOKS-BROTHERS-TIE-VINTAGE-YELLOW- PAISLEY_W0QQitemZ320340819887 This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie?
Power tie is part of the power dress code (dark suit, white shirt, dark shoes with laces, sensible jewelry, etc.). The power dress tie has diagonal stripes in an upward direction as per a favourable graph. Colour was not as important as the strength and blending of the colours. Bolder colours came along in the 1980s. The exact when for yellow, red or any other colour may be mappable according to what some prominent person wore on a specific occasion. As a general rule, more successful times had bolder colours so you may be looking around 1985-86, just before the financial bust, -C (who must still be living in the mid-80s). This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bow Tie--was Yellow Power Tie
Ah, yes, who need Freemasonry when we have the mysteries of the bow tie? A good tailoring manual will indcut you into those mysteries, -C. that my husband knows the Way of the --estimating he wears them about 75 percent of the time now. I have fun searching them out for him. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Hmm, I used one of these when visiting a workshop in Bali (and had to pay five thousand rupia for the privelige of doing someone's work for five minutes. I gotta say, my five minutes was equal to about twenty minutes of the regular operator's. The thing is called either a back-trap or back-strap loom (my memory and my host's heavy accent mean it could be one or the other). It is operated row-by-row with the aid of a foot pedal and a horizontal hand bar, all timber. You work the lines of thread horizontally through the vertical threads set onto the loom. You can vary the thread for colour as you go but, amazingly in Bali, I saw thread pre-dyed at various points so as to create a regular pattern. I would give twenty zillion dollars for my brane to remember the term for this technique but it is 115 degrees here and I am not about to go thinking. Still, the pattern is fantastic, a little blurred at the edges due to the in-exact way the pattern comes out. I have a couple of shirts with it as a feature pattern around the collar and splodges of the dye on the main part of the shirt -- they really don't set dyes well thereabouts! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help needed to find a notion
tux. The notions list one cummerbund assembly (two sliders and one buckle). Can anyone tell me what those might be, and where I could find They are parts of the back belt assembly. Why not grab an old waistcoat from an op shop and cannibalise it? -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Photos of abandoned garment factory
scene from Taming of the Shrew Liz's duds are not by Donati, they are Irene Sharaff's designs. They don't suck or anything, but you can see they don't have the same feel as Donati's. Donati also did Zeffirelli's Romeo Juliet, I hate it when some star uses pull to get thier own designer or make up person over the designer for the rest of a movie and you're right, it does show. As for Zeffirelli, he is a one-time costume designer and good at it, too, so you can always count on him for quality, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Photos of abandoned garment factory
leaping from the rafters into gigantic vats of shorn wool. Sounds like the scene from Taming of the Shrew where Liz Taylor did the same. Taylor had better eye make up than me, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Photos of abandoned garment factory
As a designer and patternmaker who's job went off-shore in 2003, this makes me want to cry. Hmm, the area I grew up in had plenty of textile mills, garment factories and footwear factories up until the '70s. I did work with some when I was young and wish those places were still around -- not just because of the great workmanship that came out of them: I also have fond memories of sneaking into what we called the wool factory on Sunday afternoons as a kid to spend hours leaping from the rafters into gigantic vats of shorn wool. Still, there could be an up-side to the pictures posted. Any really bright squatters would have been able to completely outfit themselves in quality clothing and gone out in search of a job! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some more questions about 1930's formal wear
Shirt: From what I can tell, white cotton, preferrably pique. Did they use studs in the shirt? Do the studs need to match the cufflinks? Studs or buttons, depending upon the maker -- them new-fangled makers use buttons. Studs are the more preferable. It is not required to match studs at cuffs but can be a nice touch. I'm a showy cufflinks man myself. Vest: The tux did not come with a vest, so I'll have to come up with that separately. Since I'm not sure that I would be able to match the black wool, were vests made of other fabrics? Maybe silk or satin? Does it have to be black, or were other colors used? If another color, would the tie need to match, or would it stay black? There are two kinds depending upon your tux style: low-cut front/backless with a strap that runs around the waist. Usually linen and heavily starched, oft worn with a bib (you seen those things that curl up on old comedies?); or a more common style waistcoat with a few pockets, fake lapels and so forth. Waistcoats may be optional depending on how modern in thought your man is (was?) and the lapel cut of your jacket -- the old fogies can stand back with thier cigars and sniff at the modern non-vest wearers. Cumberbuns are an easy option. Shoes: I assume black patent leather lace-ups would work. I've also seen some reference to spectator shoes or brogues. How common were they, and would they be appropriate for formalwear? Lace up shoes are the final touch to power-dressing. Not sure about oxfords versus brogues but suspect the more plain style would get you into more places, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Australia--movie
From an Australian living in Australia: It looks like a rabid version of the flag-wavers Chips Rafferty made in the 1940s. Visually, it is very good so long as you do not mind a parade of film and cultural cliches. The plot is senseless and, although that does not matter if a story is well- told, this is not well-told. It's full of solemn joy, stereotypes that belong in bad newsreels, historically innaccurate racism aimed at making the film makers feel good, pointless nobility regarding the nature of nature, and product placement. The only thing more parched than the desert is Kidman's forehead. Even Jackman's warmth and talent cannot save this mess. Oh, and if toughened stockmen and others were to have danced they way they do in Darwin when it rains, they would not only have been run out of town, they would have been run out of town soaking wet as it rains well and often in that city. In short, I asked for my free ticket back, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Which end of the thread?
Spools come in different sizes; threads come in different thicknesses and textures; presumably there are different winding systems; sewing machines and hand sewers all have thier individual kinks...there are so many variables that I don't think it really matters, -C. one of those 'useful hints' books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent knots! Any thoughts? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles
Uniforms of, say 1770 and 1810 looked very different. True, after the Napoleonic Wars, the victorious British kept their army looking much like that of Waterloo until Wellington died and the Crimean War forced a lot of changes, but even then the silouette changed in line with civilian fashions. I wonder if anyone read the original post, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color
I am sure have heard of certain colours used in clothing such as zoot suits referred to in this way -- I cannot recall where/when -- colours such as yellow, green and others not usually associated with menswear of the early 20th century. You could always hunt and email the author and ask. As a side note, the Phryne Fisher Fan Club here in Melbourne used to take tea at the Windsor Hotel as described in the books. I wonder if they are still around, -C. It's just a mystery: Queen of the Flowers : a Phryne Fisher mystery by Kerry Greenwood. Most of the 1920s background seems fairly accurate, as far as I Subject: Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles
(To the person who suggested Zulu - that battle took place in 1879, so it's actually around 70 years later than the Peninsular War in Hmm, yes, but uniforms of the 1700-1800s did not move much, only some of the structuring changed. In fact British Admiralty uniforms of the 1930s would not have seemed too far out of place in the Regency period, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Men's clothing from 1930's
Jeeze, you are in luck, things have not changed that much for us blokes, especially for evening and formal wear. You can use almost any really good suit/dinner suit pattern, perhaps use a shawl lapel (the long, curved ones) in satin. White jacket for summer wear, black for cooler months. One or two button fronts, no more than four buttons on the cuff. For a more military look, you may with to try a mess jacket, a formal waist- length jacket which is now mostly worn by snooty waiters and Scotsmen in kilts (oh, and me). Don't scrimp on your structuring. Use good thickness of padding with horsehair in the structure and strong shoulder inserts. A cumberbund can add a lot to the look. Trouser waists were much higher, sitting on the acutal waist, so you will have to adjust for that, loose fit over the hips with at least two pleats (three will sit better). Belt and matching braces (button-on, not clip-on, work better). If you are adding a bow tie, get the real thing and practise tying it rather than a clip-fastening type as have come into fashion. The real thing sits much better. For tips on the overall silhouette, you can't go past old movies, easily accessable, made at the time, -C. I have one ov Vogue's vintage patterns for a 1938 (? or so) evening gown, which I am planning to make for an event in February. My husband would like to match me, but I'm not so familiar with men's clothing during this time This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sharp's Rifes Costumes
Osprey Books cover this period in thier Elite military series although they tend to skim on real detail. There are a lot of movies set during the 1800s to guide you, too. European uniforms were pretty static in this period with two main kinds: Frock coat and tunic. Within these, national and unit colours and accessories were the variations. Although a few years out of your range, grab Zulu (1964) for some British army uniforms and Michael Caine in a sensational cape inspired by Bridgeman's satin cape, -C. Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from sharps rifels, the dvd series. I have not watched the, but I do have them on order from the library, so I will be watching them very soon. However, preparatory to watching, I figured that I would look at what costumers said about this era/this series as I have never done any costuming this modern.Does anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machines
Take it in! Take it in! Like mutts, old sewing machines should always be taken in! Your repairer may be able to replace those slipping gears or re-set them; in post middle 1960's Singers, the workings on the undersides are prone to wear or loose-fitting and can sometimes be fixed. I have jammed around with screwdrivers under a number of them over the years and had pretty good success. Also have a good look at the drop-in stitch disks if it is the type of machine with those, are they worn? -C. I inherited my grandmother's Singer. I think it may have been purchased in the late 60s or early 70s. I had it serviced and some new electrical cords added but it never worked quite right. Anything more than the thinnest fabric and the gears seemed to slip. Now that my not all that old Kenmore is giving me fits I wonder if I should take the Singer in as well. I have the owners manua, cams, and a bunch of feet. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] More 1890s film discovered
For the uninitated, the Melbourne Cup is an important horse race in Australia. In other parts of the world, you get a holiday for elections, national days, important memorial days. In Melbourne, you get the day off for the Melbourne Cup, always run on the first Tuesday in November. For the fashion conscious, the event includes fashion shows, parades and millinery contests. There is also a lot of fancy dress vaguely above the level of men in nighties and women in sparkly hats...you know, the sort of thing worn to distract people from the fact you will be paraletic drunk by race-time. The big event takes place outside the course in the Members' Carpark where the rich people have runners take bets in to the bookies as they drink champagne and chicken from the trunks of their Rolls Royces. Oh, there is also a horse race on the day. The event has been going for about a century and a half. The first ever film shot in Australia was at the 1896 Melbourne Cup, 15 short reels on events of the day that obviously shows fashion worn by racegoers, particularly men. About half of this footage has been lost although a seventh reel has been recently uncovered, showing the wieghing-in process. It is funny how this stuff always seems to be uncovered around Meobourne Cup time but I suppose we all need to target our publicity, even film and sound archivists! Below are a couple of links to newspaper articles on the footage. If you can find your way around the Australian Film Sound Archives site, you may find some of the footage, -C. http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0,,24581615-12428,00.html http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,,24591077-2702,00.html This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
My patience, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cow costume for Into the Woods
My mother-in-law teaches in Chicago and is doing Into the Woods and is looking for a cow costume, does anyone have any leads on where she can rent Cow? All it does is just kind'a stand around with Jack so, in a production I did some years ago, we just made a kind of suitcase thing on pram wheels and either dragged it on or picked it up by the handle for exits. Can you con the director into being sensible like that or are you stuck with making/hiring a cow? If hiring, does Angels have an outlet in NY? Are there companies who do a lot of children's shows? They may be options, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Janome MC 6600 Professional
They still allowing Janome to make sewing machines? Bah! A waste of thin plastic! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Titles (was Hose lining)
Sheesh, I gotta stop reading email first thing in the morning. At first sight, I thought this subject was to ddo with the innards of some kind of garden hose that could be useful as an edging for a sharp edge. So much for futuristic armour! Coffee, coffee, gimme more coffee! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] JC Superstar and Speedos
Oh (he said with eyes watering), they were that tight back then. Also, Jockey had a pair of underwear with little more than the elastic strap at the hip...could it have been that? -C. I know the subject header looks funny! Tonight I watched Jesus Christ Superstar, On Demand. During JC's visit to Herod, two men with blonde wigs in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos. I am not sure but there may have been ties at the hips, which could have been women's bikini bottoms. Were Speedos that small in 1973 for men? If not, when did men's Speedos become bikini sized? This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Speedos by name
Oh yeah, in Australia we call them budgie smugglers, -C. in the chorus were wearing what appears to be tiny white Speedos. I am not This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] old pfaff industrial
Try turning the needle 90, 180 then 270 degrees, often a needle will be in wrong way around and will often not pick up due to this (and were all the needles in the drawer the right ones?). Is the correct size bobbin in place? Is the bobbin case in good repair? Is the tension all okay? You may find that the mechanism in the underside of the head (the machine is called the head in the table, there are horizontal rods running along the length of the underside that turn the bobbin case. Are they working? If they are working, they may not be aligned correctly. Loosen the bobbin case on these rods (a few screws just beside it)and shift it around a fraction of an inch. Keep trying this until things work (you cannot do harm by this). These are a few simple things to try out. Of course, if you cannot get it working, old machines make handy anchors! -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stains
Experiment on some scraps with borax eucalyptus oil with a mild water rinse -- it will move everything except an ex-wife, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?
Before doing anything, you need to work out who the audience/what the expectations are for this ball. Will you be among a group of costume nazis or is it a group coming together for music, manners and olde time fun? If it is a strict costume event, you will have to go to much effort but for a social dance, go for the basic shape and a few accessories and trim -- your average community group is not going to notice the fall of a sleeve, the hieght of a waist or the weave of a fabric just as your average cinema audience never noticed Edith Head's tailored sleeve heads in that Sinbad movie. Or, as Sun Tzu said, don't panic (actually, that was Douglas Adams, Sun Tzu said to know your battlefield before battle, but it all runs together in the wash). -C. I am attending a Restoration Ball and do not have a costume. However, I do have one I made a few weeks ago, an 1830 daydress. I know these are completely different eras, but I'm desperate. I was wondering if anyone thought I might be able to add something/do something to this gown (without ruining it) to make it wearable for this ball, English late 17th Century. I am not looking for historical accuracy, just to look close to period, so it is truly 'dress-up'. One day I will make the proper outfit, I do have a pattern, but right now I do not have the time. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Low Rise Issue
Has anyone suggested just making a pair? -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
