RE: [h-cost] tippets

2007-03-16 Thread Schaeffer, Astrida

You know, now that you mention it, I think most of the colored examples are 
grisaille. But I'll go through my files this weekend and nail down the image 
floating in my mind of color. I'll also look for the fluttery ones.

Astrida

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Robin Netherton
Sent: Thu 3/15/2007 10:59 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] tippets
 

On Thu, 15 Mar 2007, Schaeffer, Astrida wrote:

 There -are- examples of tippets in other colors, and some are sure
 drawn or painted in a truly light and fluttery way that seems to imply
 delicate fabrics, but more often than not they're white and if you can
 look closely enough you can see the fur.

I'm still collecting tippet images, and I don't think I've ever seen one
that could be called light and fluttery. Lots of drapey ones -- draping
over arms or knees or hips -- but no fluttery. If you have any examples
I'd be very keen on seeing them. 

The colored ones I know about are mostly from grisaille manuscripts, in
which the figures are painted in whites/greys, looking rather like
sculpture, with occasional accents in unrelated colors such as pink or
pale green. Taken in isolation this might look like pink or green tippets
(if the tippets happen to be the thing accented, as they often are) but
the arbitrary color choice for the accents becomes apparent if you look at
color use throughout the manuscript. I can think of a couple of black
tippet images (such as one in the Wenceslas Bible) that are likely black
fur, and maybe one reddish-brown that might also be fur. Also some hanging
sleeve ornaments that are not band-and-streamer tippets per se but rather
chains or bells. Other than that, I'm not recalling anything that might be
considered a realistic example of a color tippet, and I'd be happy to see
any examples you might have found.

--Robin

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] tippets

2007-03-15 Thread Schaeffer, Astrida
It looks like Revival Clothing has interpreted the turned-back, white-fur-lined 
cuff with its pendant strip as a pinned-on accessory rather than the more 
accurate short-sleeve dress cuff with dangling tail. I know in this case you 
used that image to show what you meant, rather than as evidence, but it's hard 
enough to figure out what's going on when you look at a 14th century artist's 
interpretation of what a person wore, let alone a modern interpretation of that 
interpretation. There -are- examples of tippets in other colors, and some are 
sure drawn or painted in a truly light and fluttery way that seems to imply 
delicate fabrics, but more often than not they're white and if you can look 
closely enough you can see the fur.

As for purpose,I suspect there's about as much purpose to tippets as there is 
to hip-hugger bell-bottom jeans-- to look fashionable.  ; )

Astrida




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] on behalf of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Thu 3/15/2007 3:43 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets
 
Thanks to everyone for the advice! 
   
  When thinking about tippets, I came to another interesting - at leas for me - 
question - did they have some particular purpose or were they just decoration? 
I mean now the white, narrow ones that look as a separate accessory (this 
doesn't mean that they are). Like those: 
http://www.revivalclothing.com/images/tippet_hero.jpg (sorry I couldn't find 
any extant picture).
   
  Zuzana
   

 
-
 Get your own web address.
 Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] tippets

2007-03-13 Thread Schaeffer, Astrida
Current scholarship is that they aren't a separate accessory at all--
they're the vestigial long pointy sleeve (morphed over time into a thin
streamer) as seen hanging from a short-sleeved overdress. That's why
they're so often white (and so often with little black specks)-- that's
the ermine lining of the sleeve.

Astrida

**
Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director
The Art Gallery
University of New Hampshire
Paul Creative Arts Center
30 College Road
Durham, NH 03824
(603) 862-0310
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Fax: (603) 862-2191
**

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Zuzana Kraemerova
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:45 PM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] tippets

Hi,
   
  does someone know how the tippets used to be attached to the 
dress? By pins? Or were they sewn-on?
  http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic7.php
   
  Thanks,
   
  Zuzana

 
-
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels in 
45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] tippets

2007-03-13 Thread Robin Netherton

Zuzana asked:

   does someone know how the tippets used to be attached to the 
 dress? By pins? Or were they sewn-on?
   http://vieuxchamps.com/persona/enlarged/wg/wpic7.php

Astrida replies:

 Current scholarship is that they aren't a separate accessory at all--
 they're the vestigial long pointy sleeve (morphed over time into a
 thin streamer) as seen hanging from a short-sleeved overdress. That's
 why they're so often white (and so often with little black specks)--
 that's the ermine lining of the sleeve.

Zuzana, Astrida may have given you all the information you need, but if
you want to see the current scholarship, you'll find it in a paper I
wrote a few years ago: The Tippet: Accessory after the Fact? in Medieval
Clothing and Textiles 1, ed. Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker
(Boydell, 2005). If you have trouble getting your hands on this, contact
me privately.

--Robin


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-03-13 Thread Robin Netherton

I was just going through some stacked-up e-mail -- I tend to catch up in
fits and spurts, so sometimes miss things. Plus I have dial-up, so
anything that requires lots of image-heavy downloads gets set aside till I
have *time*.

Anyway, Susan posted lots of picture links. I haven't looked at all of
them but of the ones I did see -- yes, as you indicated, lots of Flemish
15th-16th c. fantasy. I took so many pictures of these sorts of weird
dresses in Belgium! In addition to the fact that they're all on
religious/historic/symbolic figures, it's also useful to note that you
rarely find two that are anywhere near alike, which makes it even more
obvious that these aren't meant to represent fashionable wear! The
regular clothing (on portraits, and in genre scenes) tends to be
cast-of-a-mold with relatively small differences in features.

Rule of thumb: The rarer it is, the less likely to be real.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6.gif

  I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots running
  down the seam.
 
 I thought that they were buttons!

The white dots are almost certainly buttons. I have no idea why she's all
stripey, but from her headgear, I wouldn't lay bets that she's a real
person, so I'd withhold judgement on this one without knowong the context.
Of course, if she's Italian, there's no telling.

Another rule of thumb: It's a bad idea to try to reproduce a costume from
an artwork without knowing something about the artwork.

 Virgin with Saints (Barbara  Catherine of Alexandria)
 http://www.wga.hu/art/b/benson/lou_135.jpg

Not too weird, these. Catherine's outfit pays lip service to the
by-now-required surcote but still is an attempt to make her look within
range of the accepted fashion. The Barbara is quite passable but very rich
as befits the princess she is; the fur oversleeves might be over the top.
Headdress is all symbolic on both.

 and one of my personal favorites -- dig the pink 3 piece suit on the
 saint in the right panel
 http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/2/05adorat.jpg

I think that's meant to be a dress that's hitched up at the waist/hip and
bloused over. Still dripping with fantasy/foreign elements.

 Elijah  the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
 http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg

I think she's pretty realistic. I've seen those sleeves elsewhere. I think
I saw this one in person, or one much like it, and took pictures -- not
for the sleeve, but for the fitting at the back waist. IIRC, there's a
horizontal seam at the top of the pleats, but it sort of comes out of
nowhere -- it doesn't go beyond the pleated area. I would have to find the
slides to confirm that, though. This is not the only gown I saw that on;
it's some sort of technique for fitting over the rump. I can think of two
or three ways to do it.

 again symbolic/allegrical, but you got 4 normal gowns and that odd
 thing in the lower left
 http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/flemish_CharlesBold.jpg

None of these women are normal, though the one at the lower right looks
realistic.  The one on the throne is a rather straighforward queenly image
plus a sword -- I think she's Justice. Oh yes, there it is above her head,
the first word in the inscription.

As for the four women upholding the coat-of-arms: See those words written
on their skirts? Those are labels, so you know what characteristic or
attribute they stand for. They are too dark to read as-is, but playing
around in a photo editor, I think the upper left one might be Veritas,
and the lower left is sage-something. The lower right one is clear:
Sobrietas, or Sobriety. Now we know why she has no fantastical elements to
her dress!

--Robin

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-03-13 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi,
Yes i also have a quote somewhere, about the maids in Amsterdam wearing 
trousers each time they had to pollish the windows.


Bjarne

- Original Message - 
From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...


- Original Message - 
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Elijah  the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg


I think she's pretty realistic. I've seen those sleeves elsewhere. I 
think

I saw this one in person, or one much like it, and took pictures -- not
for the sleeve, but for the fitting at the back waist. IIRC, there's a
horizontal seam at the top of the pleats, but it sort of comes out of
nowhere -- it doesn't go beyond the pleated area. I would have to find 
the

slides to confirm that, though. This is not the only gown I saw that on;
it's some sort of technique for fitting over the rump. I can think of two
or three ways to do it.


I've been pondering this sleeve style for a while.  It is seen pretty 
often, and occasionally on non-saints, but... I think there's at least one 
symbolic element to it, and I'm pretty sure it's the fringe that often 
shows up.  I can't think of a single occasion when that sleeve fringe did 
not appear on a Jewish/Old Testament figure. Even though the short sleeves 
worn over a chemise look is realistic, I think that perhaps it shows up in 
paintings/illuminations/etc a bit more than necessary in a representative 
fashion sense, as an easy way to display that symbolic fringe.


If anyone is interested in that pleated bustle effect style dress, just 
wait around a few days; that's the style I post about all the freakin' 
time! =} (Or at least the later variant of it.) If you want to see more 
pictures of that style, you can wade through the temp files I have online:

http://www.formfunction.org/temp/
http://www.formfunction.org/temp2/
http://www.formfunction.org/temp3/
There's all sorts of other stuff in there too, but I'm too busy/lazy to 
pick out the bustle ones at the moment.


-E House
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-20 Thread otsisto
For balance? Mainly I don't want a post reveler getting dizzy and hurling
more colour onto it. :P
And thinking of multi- colours, this reminded me of someone I know who made
a man's Landsknecht in various Hawaiian print fabric. Bright colors too.

De

-Original Message-
um, why stop at 4?  (more evil grin)  you can only see 1/4 of per
person, yes?

:-D

Jerusha


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


For balance? Mainly I don't want a post reveler getting dizzy and hurling
more colour onto it. :P


snicker.  probably a good thought.


And thinking of multi- colours, this reminded me of someone I know who made
a man's Landsknecht in various Hawaiian print fabric. Bright colors too.



Sounds like something Lord Joel woulh have done .

Jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-20 Thread otsisto
Actually the owner of Calontir trim and I was reminded that it was someone
else who made it for him.
De

-Original Message-
 And thinking of multi- colours, this reminded me of someone I know who
made
 a man's Landsknecht in various Hawaiian print fabric. Bright colors too.


Sounds like something Lord Joel woulh have done .

Jerusha


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-20 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Actually the owner of Calontir trim and I was reminded that it was someone
else who made it for him.


Drix.  Hmmm.  Could have been Joel, I guess.

Jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-19 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg

This on has long been my favorite. I have been sketching and 
searching and sketching these dresses for years hoping to find the 
right event to make one for. Sigh, and the time. :(


Thank you for the new images!!! :)


Im with you; I love them!

Sure thing.  If indeed these are symbolic/allegorical, I'd like to see
the gowns that they were derived from.  We all know (thanks to Robin)
that the later Sideless Surcoats are largely symbolic, and how they
differ from *real* Sideless Surcoats.  If this is allegorical garb, I
want to find the progenetor!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-19 Thread otsisto
I'm not sure I understand the tree. Is the woman standing the matriarch of
the family and the couple sitting at the bottom of the drawing brother and
sister or are they the parents and the woman standing the featured
descendent?
Not as wild as the Swabian.
I like the blue dress on the woman just above and to the right of the
standing woman. She has an interesting fan.
Then again the blue and red to the lower left of the woman's black sleeves
are interesting.
Thank you for the picture.
De

-Original Message-
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg

This on has long been my favorite. I have been sketching and searching and
sketching these dresses for years hoping to find the right event to make one
for. Sigh, and the time. :(

Thank you for the new images!!! :)

Chiara


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-19 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I'm not sure I understand the tree. Is the woman standing the matriarch of
the family and the couple sitting at the bottom of the drawing brother and
sister or are they the parents and the woman standing the featured
descendent?


The tree?  *giggle*  I've never even tried to figure out the tree!  I
need to see if I can print a copy large enough to read the names --
then it might work.


Not as wild as the Swabian.


I suppose!  :-)  The Swabians do like their beads/pearls, don't they! 
There's a painting by Part that is very similar


I thought that it was Myra that had the whole thing, but she does have
some of the pieces parts here
http://myra.hem.nu/costume/CostumeGallery/Embroidery_1490/Embroidery_1490.htm
Found it!
http://www.aeiou.at/aeiou.encyclop.b/b003177.htm


I like the blue dress on the woman just above and to the right of the
standing woman. She has an interesting fan.
Then again the blue and red to the lower left of the woman's black sleeves
are interesting.


I love these things.  I forget now how many leaves there were
originally, I know that at least one of them was never inked in -- but
they are a *wealth* of detail!


Thank you for the picture.


Hey, as packrat of interesting (but not always useful) information, I
feel it's part of my duty to pass it along!

:-D

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-19 Thread otsisto
I guess they could be buttons but the top of the red seems to be wider then
the other panels and it almost looks like there are dots on the other side
of the red at the bust. I was thinking that it was similar in treatment to
the birth of the virgin dress with the gold whatchamagiggers running down
the seams.
I may make this (insert evil grin) as I am trying to get a period name
passed and so far the Italian name hasn't run into problems. So maybe I am
destined to have a Italian persona in SCA. :\ And I need a 14th century
outfit because that is what the majority of the people are around here so
for local events I want to blend in some. Now what four colors shall I uses
(bwahahahah)
De
-Original Message-
 I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots
running
 down the seam.

I thought that they were buttons!



___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-19 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I guess they could be buttons but the top of the red seems to be wider then
the other panels and it almost looks like there are dots on the other side
of the red at the bust. I was thinking that it was similar in treatment to
the birth of the virgin dress with the gold whatchamagiggers running down
the seams.


If we only knew someone who was going to go see Castle Roncolo/
Runkelstein  -- maybe we could get them to take some better pictures! I 
want a larger picture of this woman!



I may make this (insert evil grin) as I am trying to get a period name
passed and so far the Italian name hasn't run into problems. So maybe I am
destined to have a Italian persona in SCA. :\ And I need a 14th century
outfit because that is what the majority of the people are around here so
for local events I want to blend in some. Now what four colors shall I uses
(bwahahahah)


um, why stop at 4?  (more evil grin)  you can only see 1/4 of per
person, yes?

:-D

Jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-19 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I guess they could be buttons but the top of the red seems to be wider then
the other panels and it almost looks like there are dots on the other side
of the red at the bust. I was thinking that it was similar in treatment to
the birth of the virgin dress with the gold whatchamagiggers running down
the seams.


Another thought ...

Could be.  Think though of any number of Mundane princess-seam dresses
-- the front panel is cut on the fold so it's twice as wide as all the
others!

Jerusha
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)

2006-02-18 Thread Becky
I looked at the images and don't know what tippets are. Please explain. I 
googled it and found sites with shawls and scarves. What in the image is a 
tippet?
- Original Message - 
From: Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 11:21 PM
Subject: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)




Hey Robin!


From the SCA garb list ...
Can I forward this to the H-Costume list where
Robin Netherton hangs out?  She's way interested
in tippets.
Jerusha


Sure. Please tell her it was pointed out by John Dillion on the Medieval
Religion List. I'm sure she'll recognise his name.

Hrothny

A fresco on the wall of the hexagonal baptistery of San Giovanni
Battista (said to be originally ninth-cent., with fifteenth- and
sixteenth-century frescoes) showing the marriage of St. Catherine of
Sienna.

http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4k1=6k2=1
===

It's Italian, but dig those tippets!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)

2006-02-18 Thread Becky
Thanks. The search results I got didn't fit into the images. I saw the 
sleeve drapes and didn't know what they were called.
I've been learning quite a bit from the discussion boards and costume 
constructions.
- Original Message - 
From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian 
fresco)




Quoting Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

I looked at the images and don't know what tippets are. Please explain. 
I googled it and found sites with shawls and scarves. What in the image 
is a tippet?


See those streamers coming from her upper arm?  Those are tippets.
If you do a google *image* search [put tippets in your search box, get
your results, and then click on the image link above the search box]
you'll get a page that shows some other gowns with tippets --
including this paperdoll site
http://www.gallimauphry.com/PD/gawain/gawain.html
and this Ready-To-Wear-Garb site
http://www.revivalclothing.com/catpages/cat_womenssilkwardrobe.htm
her tippets are white, and look like an add-on, but Robin's research
indicates that this probably isn't the case.

Susan



http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4k1=6k2=1
===

It's Italian, but dig those tippets!



-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-18 Thread Susan B. Farmer


And while we're talking Italian Tippets .  :-)


I've got another picture for you, Robin.   I just had to get it scanned
-- and now seemed like a good time to do it!

http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/milano_ExpulsionJoachim150.jpg

these women are spectators, so I don't know how much the Special Garb
rule applies here, but .


The Italian GFD frequently has this sort of inverted scoop neckline --
I'm not exactly sure what you'd call it!

some frescos from the Runklestein Castle
http://www.myblog.de/costumes/page/86416
although it's not as evident on those gowns

-- and think of those two with the funny panel down the front
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg
both of whom have that

others include

http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/italian_MussacchioPl46.jpg
http://tinyurl.com/dlmqd
http://tinyurl.com/b2te7
and *she* has an off-center front-opening gown!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-18 Thread otsisto
-Original Message-
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/milano_ExpulsionJoachim150.jpg

(Susan) these women are spectators, so I don't know how much the Special
Garb
rule applies here, but .
The Italian GFD frequently has this sort of inverted scoop neckline --
I'm not exactly sure what you'd call it!

De - Is that trim on the hem of the dress or an underdress with a short
overdress. Left shoulder, is that a cloak which the woman has pulled around
to the right and is using it to cradle the lamb? I think that the bust may
be a factor in the arching.

(Susan)-- and think of those two with the funny panel down the front
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg   both of whom have that

De- I can not tell real well but this looks like this dress has a red front
panel with striped material for the rest of the dress.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6
.gif





___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-18 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


-Original Message-
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/milano_ExpulsionJoachim150.jpg

(Susan) these women are spectators, so I don't know how much the Special
Garb
rule applies here, but .
The Italian GFD frequently has this sort of inverted scoop neckline --
I'm not exactly sure what you'd call it!

De - Is that trim on the hem of the dress or an underdress with a short
overdress. Left shoulder, is that a cloak which the woman has pulled around
to the right and is using it to cradle the lamb? I think that the bust may
be a factor in the arching.


I have *no* clue.  IIRC, there are a couple of short overdresses on
some of the painted birthing trays.  They definately have some sort of
scarf over their arms and under the lambs -- but that striped fabric
on the back of her sleeve just doesn't fit.  If it was a cloak, seems
like it should not follow her neckline like it does.  The right
shoulders of all the women are dark like maybe there is a cloak over
that shoulder.  Whatever the striped fabric is, it seen on the
underdress, the scarf under the lambs, and on the back of her left
arm.  I sure would like to see what other frescoes there are at the
Runuccini Chapel in the Sacristy somewhere in Florence!

One of the other ladies in the birth painting (URL below) also has on a
shorter overdress with a striped underdress.



(Susan)-- and think of those two with the funny panel down the front
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giottino/pieta.jpg
http://www.wga.hu/art/g/giovanni/milano/birth.jpg   both of whom have that

De- I can not tell real well but this looks like this dress has a red front
panel with striped material for the rest of the dress.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6
.gif



Isn't that one just wild!  It almost looks like it could be a 10-gore
gown with each gore a different color! -- and the *only* reason that I
make that outlandish statement, is that the stripes appear wider around
her hips than they do her neckline.

Yep, Italian wierdness.  It's not as d as some of the Flemish stuff that
you run across though!

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-18 Thread otsisto
I hadn't thought of gores but I think you may be on to something here. This
would solve some peoples problems with not having enough fabric of one
color. :)
I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots running
down the seam.
I haven't seen the weird flemish stuff. Got pictures? :)

De

-Original Message-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v420/hitomi_gehrig/14th%20Century/Roncolo6
 .gif


Isn't that one just wild!  It almost looks like it could be a 10-gore
gown with each gore a different color! -- and the *only* reason that I
make that outlandish statement, is that the stripes appear wider around
her hips than they do her neckline.

Yep, Italian wierdness.  It's not as d as some of the Flemish stuff that
you run across though!

Susan


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-18 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


I hadn't thought of gores but I think you may be on to something here. This
would solve some peoples problems with not having enough fabric of one
color. :)


It would be a hoot to do -- and you could carry that picture around with
you and say -- see!  here it is -- wierd Italian garb!  :-)


I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots running
down the seam.


I thought that they were buttons!


I haven't seen the weird flemish stuff. Got pictures? :)


Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.  One
thing that you see quite a bit in Flemish garb -- that may very well be
allegorical is the overbodice -- you know like that thing that the
Victorians thought was a part of a bliaut?

Take the Genealogies of the Kings of Portugal -- symbolic in all
probability, but the elements show up a *lot*

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/620/62082_2.jpg
my favorite.  This was on the cover of the Museum Catalog from the Getty
on Flemish Illuminations.  Dig the lady in the powder blue dress with
overbodice a little over halfway down on the right of the image.
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_04c_DomFernandoDetail.jpg
and on this folio
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/240/24052_2.jpg
and detail
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_05starD_QualityDetail2.jpg

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/122/12252_2.jpg

Virgin with Saints (Barbara  Catherine of Alexandria)
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/benson/lou_135.jpg

yet another saint -- left panel of triptych
http://tinyurl.com/a2z4t

and one of my personal favorites -- dig the pink 3 piece suit on the
saint in the right panel
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/2/05adorat.jpg

Elijah  the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg

again symbolic/allegrical, but you got 4 normal gowns and that odd
thing in the lower left
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/flemish_CharlesBold.jpg

Have I overloaded your Wierd Meter yet?  :-D

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...

2006-02-18 Thread Chiara Francesca

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg

This on has long been my favorite. I have been sketching and searching and 
sketching these dresses for years hoping to find the right event to make one 
for. Sigh, and the time. :(


Thank you for the new images!!! :)

Chiara

- Original Message - 
From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:01 PM
Subject: Flemish (was RE: [h-cost] tippets ...



Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

I hadn't thought of gores but I think you may be on to something here. 
This

would solve some peoples problems with not having enough fabric of one
color. :)


It would be a hoot to do -- and you could carry that picture around with
you and say -- see!  here it is -- wierd Italian garb!  :-)

I thought that the dress has a front panel because of the white dots 
running

down the seam.


I thought that they were buttons!


I haven't seen the weird flemish stuff. Got pictures? :)


Of course!  Think about Anne of Cleves dress.  If all you knew was
English Tudor, you'd swear that was a Fantasy/Allegorical gown.  One
thing that you see quite a bit in Flemish garb -- that may very well be
allegorical is the overbodice -- you know like that thing that the
Victorians thought was a part of a bliaut?

Take the Genealogies of the Kings of Portugal -- symbolic in all
probability, but the elements show up a *lot*

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/620/62082_2.jpg
my favorite.  This was on the cover of the Museum Catalog from the Getty
on Flemish Illuminations.  Dig the lady in the powder blue dress with
overbodice a little over halfway down on the right of the image.
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_04c_DomFernandoDetail.jpg
and on this folio
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/240/24052_2.jpg
and detail
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/bening_05starD_QualityDetail2.jpg

http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/34/3463_2.jpg
http://www.imagesonline.bl.uk/britishlibrary-store/Components/122/12252_2.jpg

Virgin with Saints (Barbara  Catherine of Alexandria)
http://www.wga.hu/art/b/benson/lou_135.jpg

yet another saint -- left panel of triptych
http://tinyurl.com/a2z4t

and one of my personal favorites -- dig the pink 3 piece suit on the
saint in the right panel
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/2/05adorat.jpg

Elijah  the Widow of Zarapeth -- dig the sleeves
http://www.wga.hu/art/m/master/zunk_fl/16_paint/1/04adora2.jpg

again symbolic/allegrical, but you got 4 normal gowns and that odd
thing in the lower left
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Paintings/flemish_CharlesBold.jpg

Have I overloaded your Wierd Meter yet?  :-D

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)

2006-02-17 Thread michaela
 http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4k1=6k2=1

 The lady here has a crown, which is one of CofA's attributes, but there's
 no sword or wheel, so it remains uncertain.

Actually there is a wheel, at her feet (between her and the Madonna) it's
that brown object with  the spikes;) I think it's depicting the wheel edge
on.

So It's CoA.

 Anyway, if it's a deliberate archaism, the costume is modeled after
 earlier artworks (and probably significantly changed in details). However,
 I wouldn't be surprised if this is 14th c., and St. Catherine of
 Alexandria, re-attributed to Catherine of Siena. Which means it's just
 saint's costume and Italian, and could be anywhere on the continuum of
 real -- fanciful!

Yup:) The faces remind me a lot of the other 14thC Italian art, but it could
also have been altered at some stage? Anyone have any idea what the
blue-black zigzag shapes on her sleeve are (the one furthest from us and
held up for the ring)?

It's a very cool image and fits in with what I have seen of the 14thC
Italian stuff. By that I mean: it's weird and all kinds of pretty;)

michaela
http://glittersweet.com



-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.10/263 - Release Date: 16/02/2006

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)

2006-02-17 Thread Robin Netherton

On Fri, 17 Feb 2006, michaela wrote:

  http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4k1=6k2=1
 
  The lady here has a crown, which is one of CofA's attributes, but there's
  no sword or wheel, so it remains uncertain.
 
 Actually there is a wheel, at her feet (between her and the Madonna) it's
 that brown object with  the spikes;) I think it's depicting the wheel edge
 on.

Oh by golly, that is a wheel. I think my brain said pillow with fringe
or something and then I stopped looking at it, before I started thinking
where's the wheel?

Now, if it had been ROUND...

 Yup:) The faces remind me a lot of the other 14thC Italian art, but it
 could also have been altered at some stage? Anyone have any idea what
 the blue-black zigzag shapes on her sleeve are (the one furthest from
 us and held up for the ring)?

The underlayer beneath decaying paint? Seriously, I have no clue.

 It's a very cool image and fits in with what I have seen of the 14thC
 Italian stuff. By that I mean: it's weird and all kinds of pretty;)

That's a really good way of putting it!

--Robin


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)

2006-02-16 Thread Robin Netherton

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Susan Farmer wrote:

 Hey Robin!

Thanks for thinking of me!
 
 A fresco on the wall of the hexagonal baptistery of San Giovanni
 Battista (said to be originally ninth-cent., with fifteenth- and
 sixteenth-century frescoes) showing the marriage of St. Catherine of
 Sienna.
 
 http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4k1=6k2=1 ===
 
 It's Italian, but dig those tippets!

I'm still reeling from the off-the-shoulder neckline ...

The tippets are definitely fun. The Italians did some really bizarre
things in art at this time.  Note that if this is really Catherine of
Siena, the costume is deliberately archaic; Catherine of Siena died in
1380 and was not canonized till 1461. Howver, the Mystic Marriage scene
shows up in art at least as early as 1340, in depictions of St. Catherine
of Alexandria, well-established as a bride of Christ. I've heard that
this attribution of the Mystic Marriage scene was a confusion with
Catherine of Siena, but the earlier dates of the art seem to contradict
that statement. In fact, every piece of art I know with the Mystic
Marriage scene is presumed to show Catherine of Alexandria. So I don't
know why some references insist that it's supposed to be Catherine of
Siena.

The lady here has a crown, which is one of CofA's attributes, but there's
no sword or wheel, so it remains uncertain. However, it looks a lot more
like CofA than CofS. CofS is typically shown with a lily, sometimes a
heart and/or a book, and/or a crown of thorns, none of which are here.
More important, CofS is usually shown in Dominican habit, and CofA in
fashionable royal dress, and this is a lot closer to the latter.

Anyway, if it's a deliberate archaism, the costume is modeled after
earlier artworks (and probably significantly changed in details). However,
I wouldn't be surprised if this is 14th c., and St. Catherine of
Alexandria, re-attributed to Catherine of Siena. Which means it's just
saint's costume and Italian, and could be anywhere on the continuum of
real -- fanciful!

I notice the stripes on the red tippets, which could be meant to indicate
fur piecing... or could just be stripes, which I've never seen on tippets,
but hey, it's Italian. The little bit of flip side we see on the left
tippet shows an intriguing combination of white and red, which might mean
that these are not separate-material band-and-streamer tippets, but
sleeve extensions (pendant sleeves) from the white dress, with a
red-striped or fur lining.

The wide over-the-hand cuffs are quite intriguing, and might be a clue
that we're dealing with a late-15th or 16th c. version of archaic dress,
with mix-and-match features. But I would have to see other local images of
dress to know whether this is a regionalism. I know very very little about
Italian variants. They make my head ache.

--Robin



___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-10 Thread Sue Clemenger
I've run into something similar, recently, with a current re-using of the
word wimple to describe a knitted thing ranging from a simple, oversized
tube that functions a bit like the turtlenecked part on a turtleneck sweater
(except that you can pull it up over your head, leaving your face exposed,
for warmth), or a hooded cowl, built similarly to a medieval hood with cowl
(although missing the liripipe).  It always causes this momentary huh?
with me, because I'm most familiar with the word as used to refer to the
woven/linen medieval women's item frequently paired with a veil. ;o)
--sue

- Original Message -
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:22 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets



 I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made.

 I have encountered things called tippets in several different centuries.
I
 had to read a couple of sentences to realize you were talking SCA-period
 tippets, instead of, say, Georgian ones.

 CarolynKayta Barrows
 dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
   www.FunStuft.com

    \\\
  -@@\\\
    7 )))
  (((   
 )   ((
/\   /---\))


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Tippets / wimples

2005-10-10 Thread Robin Netherton

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005, Jean Waddie wrote:

 I recently had to straighten out a confusion, because Early Medieval
 (Viking/Saxon/Norman) re-enactors generally use the word wimple for a
 single piece headcovering that wraps and drapes round head and
 shoulders, while 14th/15th century types use it for the specific item
 covering the neck, worn with a separate veil.  Someone asked for
 instructions for one, and got instructions for the other, which made
 no sense to them at all!

I bumped into this very difference when editing an article by my
colleague, Gale Owen-Crocker, who works on Anglo-Saxon dress. My
experience is mostly in 14th c. We used the word differently, just as you
descibed, and went round and round for a while till we sorted it out.

--Robin

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-08 Thread Marie Stewart
Robin Netherton has written quite an explanation of tippets.  The
article is in the first Journal of Medieval Clothing and Textiles. 
Information there may help you in your efforts to produce your own. 
The article is scholarly, and not a how-to-make type.
Of course... you might have already read it.   ; 
Good Luck .
Hope this helps.
Mari / Bridgette

On 10/8/05, Kahlara [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made. A 
 couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied above the 
 elbow. Others said it was sewn on.

 Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down version 
 of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as the surcotte.

 Anyone ever looked into this? They had to have been sewn on somehow, or else 
 how would you prevent them from sliding down the arm?

 I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a cuff and 
 then turned up to show the contrasting fabric.

 Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the 
 construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the construction. From 
 what I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.

 Annette M


 -
  Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


Re: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-08 Thread Robin Netherton

On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Kahlara wrote:

 I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were
 made.

As Mari noted, tippets are an interest of mine, and I have put essentially
everything I know about them into an article that appeared in the first
volume of _Medieval Clothing  Textiles_ (issued spring 2005), eds. Gale
Owen-Crocker and myself. For the long answer, I'd suggest you borrow or
ILL it; if you can't get a copy easily, e-mail me directly and we'll work
something out.

 A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied
 above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.

Short answer: Most of the standard sources are almost certainly wrong.

The most important conclusions (I'll leave the detailed analysis and
evidence to the article):

-- The tippets that look like a band around the upper arm with a hanging
streamer (which is what you seem to be asking about) were almost certainly
*not* separate wardrobe items, but rather decorative cuffs on
short-sleeved overgowns, made as part and parcel of the garment.

-- I can find no suggestion in any source that the bands/streamers were
linen, silk, or other fabric. There is substantial circumstantial evidence
that the depictions were meant to indicate fur -- in fact, an extension of
the (almost always white) fur lining typically used on these gowns.

 Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down
 version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as
 the surcotte.

This sounds like a description of certain other decorative sleeve endings
from near to the same time period. A thorough look at the visual sources
shows that sleeve endings pass through a sequence of stages, the
band-and-streamer tippet being only one style in that sequence.

Some modern costumers use the term tippet to refer to several different
types of hanging sleeve decorations, and then distinguish them by various
terms such as integral tippets or banded tippets or whatever -- though
I have seen a lot of inconsistency in the modern use of such terms, and
there is no parallel distinction in the (highly fluid and imprecise)
terminology of the period. The word tippet was used for a variety of
things, including hood tails.

 Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the
 construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the
 construction.

There are (to my knowledge) no extant tippets. There are plentiful visual
sources of varying quality, rare written references to the style, and
(again to my knowledge) absolutely no line-item entries in inventories,
wills, shop lists, etc. As near as I can tell, they are never referred to
as separate items, only as a feature of a particular style of garment.

  I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a
 cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. ... From what
 I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.

It was probably more accurate than most of the other examples you may have
seen, as I suspect the band-and-streamer style developed as a formalized
version of the visual impression created by turning up a fur-lined short
sleeve with a hanging extension, which was the sleeve style immediately
preceding the appearance of the tippet. But *that* is my own speculation.

For the long version, I refer you to the article.

--Robin



___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-08 Thread otsisto
Is it possible that since sleeves were seamed on the sides and usually not
underneath that the sleeve seams are open from wrist to lower bicep. Top of
forearm sleeve is removed leaving the lower forearm sleeve. Role once
leaving the lining exposed?

De




___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-08 Thread Robin Netherton

On Sat, 8 Oct 2005, otsisto wrote:

 Is it possible that since sleeves were seamed on the sides and usually
 not underneath that the sleeve seams are open from wrist to lower
 bicep. Top of forearm sleeve is removed leaving the lower forearm
 sleeve.

Opening a long sleeve halfway up is one of several ways to achieve a
hanging-flap extension on a short sleeve, and you see variations on this
in the early 15th c. That technique is easy to formalize into a
squared-off pendant; there are examples of that style in Franco-Flemish
mss of about 1415-1440, including the Tres Riches Heures and the various
illustrated Bocaccio manuscripts.

However, the short-sleeve extensions you see most often in early-to-mid
14th c. art seem to have developed not directly from opening a long
sleeve, but from a different direction. Coming into the century, you start
with overgown sleeves that are slightly shorter and wider than the tight
undergown sleeves. Over time, you can see the overgown sleeve shorten
further; only then does it develop a hanging point off the bottom
(probably originally as an artifact of the rectalinear cutting method).
Then the piont lengthens into a pendant, growing longer over time into its
own design element. The fur lining is visible on the inside of the hanging
bit. The result is a half-length sleeve (to the bend of the elbow) with a
narrow hanging piece that is a continuation of the sleeve along the back,
but shows a fur surface from the front view (the exposed lining)

It's important to note that other things were happening with the
construction of long (undergown) sleeves in this period, specifically the
development of the set-in sleeve in the 1330s, which enabled the rotation
of the sleeve seam from underneath to the outside, and then the fitting of
the long sleeves all the way up (often with buttons) instead of just at
the lower forearm. So the opened up long sleeve you describe could
probably not have occurred during the earlier part of the development in
this century, when the typical construction method was a gusseted sleeve
with a seam along the bottom. This had all changed by the early 1400s.

 Role once leaving the lining exposed?

I can't recall seeing the rolling done on long sleeves that have been
opened halfway up (that would be early 1400s, and tippets were outdated by
then). However, going back to the period of 1350-1380, in which tippets
developed from pendent sleeves: Once you have the fur-lined pendent
sleeve, it's a reasonable thing to flip the bottom of the sleeve back to
form a cuff, showing off the fur lining. This casual alteration leaves the
pendant hanging a bit awkwardly and it would have been hard to maintain,
but the visual impact is distinct -- a fur band around the middle of the
upper arm (not down near the elbow) and a fur hanging piece. This is what
I think led to the formalization of the fur band-and-streamer style, which
would have been cut and sewn in that shape.

--Robin
sleeve addict

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-08 Thread monica spence
Hi Robin--

How does one go about subscribing to Medieval Clothing  Textiles ?

Dame Catriona MacDuff / Monica Spence

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 11:18 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets



On Fri, 7 Oct 2005, Kahlara wrote:

 I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were
 made.

As Mari noted, tippets are an interest of mine, and I have put essentially
everything I know about them into an article that appeared in the first
volume of _Medieval Clothing  Textiles_ (issued spring 2005), eds. Gale
Owen-Crocker and myself. For the long answer, I'd suggest you borrow or
ILL it; if you can't get a copy easily, e-mail me directly and we'll work
something out.

 A couple of sources I found said it was a strip of white linen tied
 above the elbow. Others said it was sewn on.

Short answer: Most of the standard sources are almost certainly wrong.

The most important conclusions (I'll leave the detailed analysis and
evidence to the article):

-- The tippets that look like a band around the upper arm with a hanging
streamer (which is what you seem to be asking about) were almost certainly
*not* separate wardrobe items, but rather decorative cuffs on
short-sleeved overgowns, made as part and parcel of the garment.

-- I can find no suggestion in any source that the bands/streamers were
linen, silk, or other fabric. There is substantial circumstantial evidence
that the depictions were meant to indicate fur -- in fact, an extension of
the (almost always white) fur lining typically used on these gowns.

 Yet other things I have seen and read make it seem like a scaled down
 version of the wide belled sleeves and made from the same fabric as
 the surcotte.

This sounds like a description of certain other decorative sleeve endings
from near to the same time period. A thorough look at the visual sources
shows that sleeve endings pass through a sequence of stages, the
band-and-streamer tippet being only one style in that sequence.

Some modern costumers use the term tippet to refer to several different
types of hanging sleeve decorations, and then distinguish them by various
terms such as integral tippets or banded tippets or whatever -- though
I have seen a lot of inconsistency in the modern use of such terms, and
there is no parallel distinction in the (highly fluid and imprecise)
terminology of the period. The word tippet was used for a variety of
things, including hood tails.

 Does anyone know if there is any extant examples that are clear on the
 construction? Or any resources that may be specific on the
 construction.

There are (to my knowledge) no extant tippets. There are plentiful visual
sources of varying quality, rare written references to the style, and
(again to my knowledge) absolutely no line-item entries in inventories,
wills, shop lists, etc. As near as I can tell, they are never referred to
as separate items, only as a feature of a particular style of garment.

  I saw one version at an SCA event that had them like a lining on a
 cuff and then turned up to show the contrasting fabric. ... From what
 I have seen, the SCA example I saw was not accurate.

It was probably more accurate than most of the other examples you may have
seen, as I suspect the band-and-streamer style developed as a formalized
version of the visual impression created by turning up a fur-lined short
sleeve with a hanging extension, which was the sleeve style immediately
preceding the appearance of the tippet. But *that* is my own speculation.

For the long version, I refer you to the article.

--Robin



___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


RE: [h-cost] Tippets

2005-10-08 Thread monica spence
Thanks! I'll check it out.
Catriona/Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Robin Netherton
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 11:22 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Tippets



On Sat, 8 Oct 2005, monica spence wrote:

 How does one go about subscribing to Medieval Clothing  Textiles ?

It's an annual journal published in book form. It's assumed that most
subscribers will be libraries that will want to assemble a complete set,
though I suppose that there would be some way for individuals to subscribe
as well. Most people, though, will want to buy individual volumes based on
their interest in specific papers included.

The papers in each volume vary greatly by topic, period, and discipline.
It's our goal to have a broad range in each volume, representing early
medieval up through early modern (that's the preferred term now for
Elizabethan ;-) ), and a variety of approaches: art, literature,
documentary studies, archaeology, trade/economics, and experimental
reconstruction. The papers are peer-reviewed and academic in nature, not
focused on the how-tos of costuming, though we believe that costumers and
re-enactors who are interested in the historic aspects of their work will
find many of the papers of use. (I do encourage people to think of the
footnotes as good starting points for sources for further research in each
of the topics addressed; even if the focus of a particular paper is highly
specific, the footnotes will likely provide a far broader introduction to
the scholarly literature on that topic.)

You can see contents for Volume 1 here:
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43831236.HTM

Volume 2 is here:
http://www.boydell.co.uk/43832038.HTM

Depending on when you order, you can sometimes find good prices at Amazon
or BN.

--Robin

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume