KR> RE: First day working with N86DK.....

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 00:06:08 -0500
From: Dave_A <dave.a.kr...@gmail.com>
Subject: KR> First day working with N86DK.
To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
Message-ID: <4f07d2c0.50...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed



1) It looks to me like it is a HAPI engine conversion. Most likely an
1835cc. Stock 69mm crank with 92mm bore.
2) Learn to hand prop. You will save weight not having a starter. The plane
flies better if it's light weight.
3) Polyester/vinyl ester is not compatible with epoxy. Use epoxy resin to
make any repairs. I don't know where you get this 'polyurethane' stuff.
4) I would get rid of those seats and put the KR sling seats in for
starters. Then see where your knees are in relation to the cross member.
Move your seat back.

Joe Beyer
Estacada, Ore.

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Rotary Anyone?

[Joe Beyer]

I have a little stick time in a rotary powered aircraft. A Coot amphibian
with a pilon mounted Mazda 12A with electronic ignition, 2:1 reduction with
a 5 blade ground adjustable prop. It slows down to 500rpm and takes off at
about 6800rpm. Very smooth operation but very high fuel consumption. Also
extremely loud. It had nitrous oxide injection which added another thousand
rpm for takeoff. It got you up on the step and off the water. About 2100
lbs. empty weight. Not for the light sport pilot.

Joe
Eagle Creek, Ore.

KR> RE: Fuel tank pick up and vent

[Joe Beyer]

> I'm about ready to close up my aluminum wing fuel tanks and need some
advice on the pick up and vent. These tanks are very similar to those on
Mark Jones' website. 
> 1: I'm thinking of eliminating the pick up tube and installing the AN
fitting, with a finger screen attached, right near the bottom of the tank. I
think this setup would prevent the possibility of a loose pick up tube
falling off inside the tank.
> 2: I'm installing the filler/ cap toward the wing tip end of the tank.
What are your thought of a simple 1/4" tube attached on the filler neck
pointing toward the airstream above the wing like the header tank design in
the KR plans? Or should I attach the tube to the filler neck and route it
out the bottom of the wing? Which would perform better? Pro and cons?
> Your thoughts and ideas are welcomed. 
> 
> Rodger Nicolls 
> bandenok...@gmail.com
> 
> Blue skies!


 I would install the vent line into the lower skin, extend it through the 
underside pointing downward. Cut a 50deg. angle in the tube on the foreword
face to give you positive air flow. I did this on my composite tank,
extending the vent tube through the firewall and downward with that angle. I
didn't want a ram air effect that pressurizes the tank with increased
airspeed speed. Also I attached a little screen to the bottom of the vent.

Joe

Valley View, Ore.

KR> RE: tri-gear conversion

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 00:00:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: velocityo...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: KR> Continuing thoughts on tri-gear conversion
To: KRnet 
Message-ID:
<1320217247.32437.yahoomail...@web126104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

>Hello Dave,
 
>First off my salute to you and sincere thanks for your service to this
>country! You have my respect and help at any time.
 
>Glad to see you planning to get this thing going. A couple of things to go
>over. The original spring-bar isn't what is used for the tri gear
>conversion

I used the spring bar sawed in half and tapered for my tri gear conversion.
I made a trailing link gear leg which has taken some pretty bouncy landings.
The biggest challenge was getting the nose wheel to not shimmy or bend at
the pivot point. 
Joe
Valley View (Estacada)

KR> RE: KRnet Tri Gear Conversion

[Joe Beyer]

*
Message: 2
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 05:04:38 +
From: Dave Acklam 
Subject: KR> Purchased a KR-2, want to change the landing gear
config

I want to convert it to tri-gear, as all my time has been in 172s & I'm not
quite comfortable picking up a new airframe and learning to fly tailwheel at
the same time.

My KR-2 was a tail dragger years ago and after a hard landing on my fifth
flight I decided to do the conversion. It was a great improvement in the
ground handling. I think the 2-s version is better suited for tail wheels
due to it's longer length. I designed my own hardware and the biggest
challenge was getting the nose wheel right. 

Joe
Estacada Ore.

KR> RE:Fuel Filter Cap and venting

[Joe Beyer]

I vented my 15 gallon composite tank to a point below the firewall. The vent
line goes foreword and angles down. I have a screen at the end to prevent
blockage.  
--

Message: 2
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2011 08:34:28 -0500 (EST)
From: phillabaum...@aol.com
Subject: KR> Fuel filler and caps venting
To: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID: <8cda6f5afab7ae2-14c4-...@webmail-stg-d14.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


Thanks for the reply's on the cap types.  I like the one Joe sent I will
look into that one.

HOW TO VENT the header tank?   My thinking (although might be stupid) is
that if I vent the header tank out the top then if while I am transferring
fuel from the wing tanks and get distracted and forget to turn off the pump
I will notice fuel on the windscreen.  I really don't want to put a switch
in the tank for a warning light but if that is the way to do it then.
Just looking the the K.I.S.S. system.

Steve Phillabaum
KR2Swide
Shorter, Alabama
334-740-0066

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Vol 352, Issue 369

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 6
You might try setting the aircraft to the highest angle of attack expected
in flight by placing something under the nose wheel with minimum fuel in the
tank. Then disconnect the fuel output from the gasculator and point it
toward a measuring cup. With a stop watch time the amount of fuel it takes
to fill a specific amount in the cup. Then calculate the gph. 

Joe
Scappoose ore.

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2010 19:43:59 -0500
From: "smwood" 
Subject: KR> Fuel Flow Test
To: 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

I need to verify the fuel flow rate on my KR-2.  The VW 2180 would burn 
about 6 gallons per hour full throttle 3600 RPM, full rich, max climb rate 
at 14 degrees AOA.  FAA says there must be a 50 percent safety factor.  So, 
need to verify 9 gallon per hour fuel flow.  I cannot just fly to see if the

aircraft will not run out of fuel under these conditions because that would 
not demonstrate the safety factor and a couple of other things.  Other 
considerations:  All fuel is in the wings; have an engine driven mechanical 
fuel pump.  Just windmilling with the starter won't get but a few hundred 
RPM.  I can block up the aircraft on the ground for the 14-degree AOA.  Yes,

I know about the 2-minute max throttle de-rating.
There are lots of references in the archives on flow testing and Facet 
pumps.  I find nothing for on testing engine-driven fuel pumps or how the 
flow was actually measured.
Any suggestions on how I can demonstrate a 9 gallon per hour fuel flow rate?

(which, of course, the 2180 will never need)

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA 

KR> RE: Canopy Gluing- Epoxy

[Joe Beyer]

I've seen several cracked bubbles caused by people trying to stretch the
bubble into a pre existing frame and trying to attach it with through hole
fasteners (screws, rivets, or bolts). The successful ones I've seen on RV's
and other metal planes were fastened with no preload to the plexiglass
bubble and with slightly oversized holes (to allow for expansion) with the
holes properly deburred and some sort of cushion between the plexiglass and
steel tube frame. Those bubble canopys aren't cheap. You shouldn't try to
work with them unless the weather is warm. Happy gluing!

Joe
Scappoose, Ore.

Message: 5
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 22:49:53 -0800
From: "BadBob" 
Subject: KR> RE: Canopy Gluing- Epoxy
To: 
Message-ID: <574CAC0890AE49DAAF96BF8BB9B69D34@BadBobPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

Joe stated;
"Any holes drilled around the edges make for a potential stress riser. Drill
no holes."

I would have to respectfully disagree, to a point, with Joe on this one. (I
don't find myself in that position often as he is a wealth of good
information!).
The canopy on my Thorp T-18 was drilled and had screws holding it on with no
glue. The canopy on my  Cassutt is also bolted on and 
has seen 250 MPH+ without an issue.
Now, having said that, Joe brings up an important point. A stress riser is
to be avoided on a plastic canopy. You do not drill a canopy 
the way you drill other things. If so inclined to drill please research the
subject thoroughly or you will be buying another canopy! Also you must
mount, through the hole, without binding the canopy. You can, however,
drill a canopy and bolt it or cotton flox it for added strength, however,
heed Joes warning and be careful.

Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
971-645-9491

***

KR> RE: Canopy Gluing- Epoxy

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 12
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 10:51:18 -0800 (PST)
From: oceanmanus <oceanma...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy Gluing- Epoxy

Do sand the surface edges well with very coarse sand paper, both sides. At
Lancair we used to install plexiglass windows in pressurized planes using
the method described below. One of them broke at altitude once and de
pressurized the cabin suddenly but it wasn't due to a glue joint failure.
Any holes drilled around the edges make for a potential stress riser. Drill
no holes. Be sure to mask off the canopy with electrical tape then masking
tape on top of that. Don't let anything except the electrical tape touch the
plexiglass, it' very hard to clean the tape glue especially if it's duct
tape. Kerosene or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) with a soft cotton cloth
works well to clean plexiglass.

Joe Beyer
Scappoose, Ore.


From: Mark Langford <m...@n56ml.com>
To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wed, December 22, 2010 11:47:58 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy Gluing- Epoxy

Steve Phillabaum wrote:

>>I have a Todd's KR canopy and I sanded in a good scratch finish in the 
>>area of the epoxy and then sandwiched in the conopy between glass on both 
>>sides uning areopoxy.  I don't think I could get it appart without some 
>>damage.  Let us know what he has to say.<<

That'll work fine.  I would think most epoxies would stick just fine to 
acrylic after it's been roughed up with rough sandpaper to give it some 
"teeth".  I think this is even detailed in the Bengelis books.  I suspect 
those having problems didn't do the roughing part.  I wondered about the 
quality of that bond when I did mine the same way (overlapping the acrylic 
by about 1.5"-2" all the way around, but there is zero sign of delaminiation

anywhere.  T-88 may not be the best choice because it's not very viscous and

may not soak into as many of the scratches, but I'd bet it's still a pretty 
good bonding agent for glass.  I used Aeropoxy, and can tell you that it 
works for sure, at least up to 240 mph.

Another key is HOW you do it...you need to sandwich the acrylic on both 
sides with glass to put it in a sort of "double shear" rather than glass on 
only one side, eliminating a "tension only" kind of failure where the 
fiberglass can just peel away from the acrylic due to some wierd loading 
condition.  I think that's just good common sense though...

Mark Langford
m...@n56ml.com
website www.n56ml.com


___
**

KR> RE: Recommended Epoxy?

[Joe Beyer]

My favorite is West Systems with the fast cure hardener. A little pricy but
worth it. I used the Rutan Safe T Poxy years ago but it is no longer
available. You might also look for Shell 862 resin and TETA hardener mixed
16 : 1 by weight. The hardener is toxic so use gloves.

Joe
Scappoose Ore.

Message: 4
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 08:54:52 -0500
From: Jose Fuentes 
Subject: KR> Recommended Epoxy?
To: KRnet 
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I'm looking at what I need to do to get the wings put together for the KR I
got, I got the wing skins and ribs and Spars, so it seems it would be a
simple process.

I still need to buy a set of plans, maybe some of you have an old set??

What has been the most recommended epoxy for this purpose?

Joe

KR> RE: Gas tank

[Joe Beyer]

You might try looking for an Aeronca Champ gas tank. They fit a KR real
well.

Joe
Scappoose, Ore.




***

KR> RE: Drive 3-blade Ground Adjustable CF Prop

[Joe Beyer]

One of the guys at the airport had one on his Pazmany pl-2 (o 290g engine).
The blade failed one day and he made a forced landing. They gave him new
replacement blades. Another guy had one on his EAA biplane with no problems.
Both of these were three bladed. I wouldn't use on on a VW. The crankshaft
isn't strong enough for the prop. It might be OK on a Revmaster but not on a
stock VW crankshaft. Another guy had a five bladed version on his Coot
amphibian with a Mazda 12-A using a 2:1 reduction with no problems. 

Joe 
Scappoose, Ore.

BTW; I have heard it said quite a number of times that carbon fiber props
should not be used on VW engines.  I do not know if this applies to
Revmasters and/or if anyone has actually studied this problem or it is just
an old wives tale (I suspect the latter).  I do not wish to spread rumors,
neither do I care to read you had a crank break and destroyed your plane.
Steve Bennett can probably clear this up in short order.

Jon Finley
N314JF - Q2 - Subaru EJ-22
[http://www.finleyweb.net/Q2Subaru.aspx]
http://www.finleyweb.net/Q2Subaru.aspx

KR> RE: heat treating engine mount

[Joe Beyer]

The best way to heat treat an engine mount is to take a welding torch in one
hand and a long handled magnet in the other. With the engine mount secured
and a carburizing flame on the torch apply heat to the welded area until it
becomes non magnetic, remove the flame and let it cool down gradually. The
metal will glow to a dull red when the local magnetism ceases. Do this with
each welded joint to relieve internal stresses. 

Joe Beyer
Scappoose, Ore.

Message: 3
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 2010 17:01:20 -0700
From: DAN INA GLANDT <dagla...@msn.com>
Subject: KR> heat treating engine mount
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Message-ID: <snt132-w907d7702560a74cfdb194d4...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


What are your thoughts on the need to have an engine mount of 4130 that has
been TIG welded normalized? 
Dan   

KR> RE: Aluminum fuel tank

[Joe Beyer]

It doesn't seem line the best solution but it did solve the problem of fumes
with my neighbors Aeronca aluminum tank. I had the tapered brass valve in my
aluminum tank which did leak some and still use it now in my composite tank.
It's wrapped with Kevlar for safety and seals up better than the metal tank.
Any tank installed should be removable to access the foreword section. I
have photos available of my composite tank if anyone wants to have a look.

Joe
Scappoose Ore.


I highly recommend an aluminum tank.  If it's
leaking, just fix it!  Wrapping it with composite doesn't seem like an
optimum solution.

As for a composite tank, good luck.  Just make sure it's removable.  

Mike
KSEE

KR> Welding and welder selection

[Joe Beyer]

I have flown with an aluminum tank in my KR-2. I needed a bigger tank so I
made one using composite materials. There was always a smell of fuel inside
the plane with the metal tank but not with my epoxy lined carbon fiber gas
tank. My neighbor with his Aeronca had that problem so he laid up glass
around his metal tank to solve the 'gas fume' problem. As far as the best
type of welding, I've found that oxy acetylene is the cheapest. Not the best
for aluminum welding though. Use TIG for that. 

Joe
Scappoose, Ore.

KR> RE: WAF spacers/individual bolts

[Joe Beyer]

I used 8ea. AN385 taper pins for my wing attach fittings. On the large end I
turned it down and cut some 5/8" threads and drilled it for a cotter pin.
When installed there are two spacers that set the taper pin into position
and are clamped in place by the two nuts. This acts like two short bolts.
Lots of work setting it all up but I can pre load the taper using washers to
take up any slop. I had access to a tapered reamer at the time. The easiest
way is to use one bolt with a spacer, with the WAF's reamed to size. This
step done first then position onto the spars and drill the 3/16th holes.

Joe
Scappoose, Ore. 

Message: 6
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 20:00:28 +0200
From: "Eric Evezard" 
Subject: KR> WAF 
To: "KRnet" 
Message-ID: <004601cb6324$fec09ec0$0500a...@digipoint.co.za>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Netters,
Has anyone used wing pins to attach the wings ?My sailplane has wing pins
with small handles and thumb push buttons one end with ball bearings at the
other.One simply presses the thumb button,the ball bearings retract,and the
pin slides through the WAFs,Let go and it is locked.It takes no time at
all.Most netters will know all about these pins.I am using the plans bolts
and nuts system on my KR 2s,as I do not intend rigging and de rigging my KR
as I would my glider.(outlandings and retrieval etc )However should the
necessity ever arise (hangarage etc) I would consider wing pins.
Best Regards,
Eric,
South Africa.

KR> RE: ARTICLE-KITPLANES NOV 2010 and prop photos

[Joe Beyer]

I saw Old Blue in the hangar after the crash. That FAA guy chased me out of
there when I asked to snap a picture of the wreck. The wing attach fittings
on a KR are the strongest part of the wing. The wood around them brakes
before the fittings ever will. Also I have some pictures of my new prop I
made added to my photo list at this link. It's a 52 X 40 made of walnut and
douglas fir. Weighs 4 lbs. http://www.bouyea.net/members/index.htm  Thanks
to John for posting the pictures. Scroll down. 

Joe
Scappoose Ore.

Message: 7
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 09:56:58 -0700
From: "Plane Nut" 
Subject: RE: KR> KR2 ARTICLE-KITPLANES NOV 2010
To: "'KRnet'" 
Message-ID: <00b901cb60c0$7e84f0a0$7b8ed1e0$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

I am really miffed about this article.  I would like to know what this guy's
qualifications are to make this assumption.  I know of no failures of the
wing attach fittings on any KR.  To my knowledge there have been no changes
in the wing attach fittings other than dimensionally with the 2S.  I'll
confirm that with Jeanette today. 

In the photos from "Ol Blue's crash the wing took a direct hit and the
fitting bent (accordion shaped) but were still intact.  I had asked
Kitplanes to allow us to review it before print.  I had a feeling it was
going to be bad when I was informed they had been working on the article for
a few years.  It was alleged to be a flight report only from someone who did
not own a KR but she didn't seem to get it. 

Guess I need to write a letter to the Editor...

Steve Glover
steve.glo...@nvaero.com
www.nvaero.com


***

KR> RE: vw engine cases

[Joe Beyer]

I have line bored VW engine cases for my cars and plane. I've also made two
force one prop hubs which require the case to be bored out at the pulley
end. No problem with them. Use Teflon wrist pin buttons.

Joe
Scappoose Ore.

Message: 3
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 10:47:08 -0700
From: "Fred Johnson" 
Subject: KR> RE: vw engine cases
To: "'KRnet'" 
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Has anyone had any experience rebuilding a VW with a used case?

Have you had any issues with it?

Did you line bore it?

Or am I better off with a new case?



Fred Johnson
Reno, NV

KR> RE: Fuel Tank Vent

[Joe Beyer]

I built my tank with the vent taken at the top of the tank going through the
fire wall and angled down to the bottom of that bulkhead. I fixed a small
screen to the foreword facing vent tube to keep stuff out. I never liked a
vented gas cap although the work well. My tank and foreword deck are all one
piece made of carbon fiber, glass, and Kevlar.

Joe
Scappoose Ore.


I am to the point of building a new fuel tank for my new fuselage following
the Oct 09 off airport collision with an earthern berm due to loss of engine
power. NTSB felt the cause was improper fuel tank venting that caused a
vaccuum that beat the gravity feed system.

My question is for someone flying with a gravity ONLY fuel system:  How did
you vent your fuel tank?

Bob Sauer
Sun City West, AZ

KR> RE: tri gear and taildragger

[Joe Beyer]

I made my first five flights in my KR-2 as a tail dragger on a long paved
and wide runway. The last landing was hard enough to bend the left main gear
and send the wheel partially into the stub wing. It also scraped the right
wing tip on the trailing edge. There were three fire engines that showed up
and one wanted to spray my plane with foam but there was no fuel leakage or
fire. After that incident I redesigned my landing gear to tri gear and had
much better times with it. The KR-2 is too short for a tail wheel. Maybe the
2-S is OK once you're used to it but the shorter "2" is no fun at all with a
tail wheel. With a nose wheel up front that is fully faired in only adds
about 12 lbs. of weight and sets the CG a bit foreword which I can really
notice in flight. I made one flight without the nose fairing and lost about
four mph in cruse speed. The shimmy damper I made was quite a learning
experience and kept the nose wheel from rattling the nose of the plane on
takeoff. 

Joe 
Scappoose Ore.

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2010 23:29:09 -0700
From: laser...@juno.com
Subject: Re: KR> tri gear and taildragger
To: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID: <20100328.232909.2076.6.laser...@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


> "Who on the Net has flown both, and what is the difference"

KR> RE: Posa Carb

[Joe Beyer]

I've run a Posa Super Carb from HAPI for years with good results. They are
quite a challenge to set them up so the engine will run smoothly in all
power ranges. I plan on trying a Solex side draft carb soon. I have a
mixture control for it.

Joe
Scappoose Ore.

> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: Re: KR> VW carburation question
> From: n92...@cox.net
> Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:21:38 +
> 
> If you have a POSA, junk it!



We had a Posa carb. and every time it came to start the plane by hand
propping it would be hard.  The adjustment on the carb is so hard.  You end
up to rich or to lean.

We replaced the Posa 40 mm. carb with a AMF 50 mm. carb. from a 1600 Harley
Davidson MotorCycle.  We run a 1700 cc. Monnet converted VW.   The plane
starts easy and runs good.



Thanks,

John  

KR> FW: RE fuselage,glass or paint ?

[Joe Beyer]

I used 1.8 oz. Dacron sold as glider fabric back in '83. It still looks good
today. No sanding at all just iron it and apply poly brush. 
Joe

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 13:57:48 -0600
From: MICHAEL SYLVESTER 
Subject: KR> fuselage,glass or paint ?
To: KRNET 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"


Hi Guys, It's a little slow on the net right now so I'll throw this question
out there. Fuselage- Glass or paint ? Who has glassed their plywood ? As for
progress, The tops of the wings are covered and I am covering the bottoms
when I get up from here. I have help on his way. We should be able to get at
least one finished today. Keep building guys, there is a light at the end of
the tunnel.

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854

KR> RE: New Subscriber KR1

[Joe Beyer]

Years ago I used 1/4" fir, three ply marine grade plywood on my KR-2 for the
fire wall and fire wall shelf. It's still holding up today. 

Joe

> 
> Hello KRnetters,
> I have spent the day scanning through and searching the 
> archives, but have not found the answer.
> Can 1/4" 5ply A-B Grade Fir Marine plywood be used for the firewall?
> I have recently purchased plans and spruce sticks to build a 
> KR1 and hope to find a local supplier, Dallas/Fort Worth, of 
> plywood. I  hoped that if there were a supplier in this huge 
> urban sprawl I might get full sheets, not have so many scarf 
> joints and save shipping costs. No joy so far all I have 
> found is the fir.
> 
> Thanks, Edward
> 
> 
>   
> 
> --
> 
> ___
> See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> 
> End of KRnet Digest, Vol 352, Issue 10
> **
> 

KR> Solex 32PHN-2 Carbuerator

[Joe Beyer]

Last month I came across a Solex 32PHN-2 side draft carburetor on eBay that
I got for $13.00 plus shipping. It appears to be in good shape and I also
came across some data on it. I'll try to post it if anyone is interested.
They were used on VW conversions and came standard on the type 4 engines in
Europe. None were ever sold in the US at that time for some reason and are a
rare find. The type 4's in the States all had dual carburetors or fuel
injection. Something to replace the Posa Carb.

Joe
Scappoose, Ore.

KR> RE: paper pilot certificate

[Joe Beyer]

 I keep my paper certificate as a keep sake form the '70's. I switched over
to plastic along with my repairman certificate last year. 

Joe
Scappoose Ore.


> Mike Sylvester wrote:
> 
> << Jeeez Joe, You must be a lot older than you look. I 
> thought everyone had plastic. >>
> 
> When I saw this message I was surprised becasue I thought 
> everyone had paper.  I used the FAA web site and updated the 
> address on my pilot certificate while getting a new one 
> issued.  I had not lived at the address on my pilot 
> certificate for 41 years.  I guess that makes me older than 
> Joe looks too!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> 
> Bob Lee
> N52BL  KR2
> Suwanee, GA  USA
> 92% done only 67% to go!
>

KR> RE: Paint

[Joe Beyer]

I used Ditzler Cross Fire polyurethane enamel on my KR and is still good. It
uses a reducer and a hardner.

Joe 
Scappoose Ore.
(Back from Florida)


> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 22:36:55 -0800
> From: laser...@juno.com
> Subject: KR> Paint
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Message-ID: <20091126.223655.3352.3.laser...@juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii  
> 
> Ken Cottle used Dietzler Durathane on mine and it still looks 
> like new 22 years & 1200 hours later.  Little ratty around 
> the cowl where nicks & many hundreds of times of taking 
> cowlings on and off have taken a slight toll, but fuselage, 
> wings & tail feathers still look like the day Ken finished them.  
> 
> Mike
> KSEE

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 315

[Joe Beyer]

 My KR-2 is at Scappoose Ore. The first flight was at Hillsboro in '87. It
is a good flying plane but a bit under powered with the stock VW. It won't
lift two people. I started building it in '79 and is plans built with no kit
parts. The only modifications are to the landing gear. I flew it as a tail
dragger at first and converted it to tricycle gear. It's not a high time
plane and has always been hangared so is in good condition. 

Joe
Scappoose, Ore.

> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 10:01:29 -0700
> From: "Stephen Glover" 
> Subject: RE: KR> Flight time
> To: "'KRnet'" 
> Message-ID: <01ca5982$9f9df430$ded9dc90$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> This is one of the best reports I have seen in a long time.  
> I'll bet there are numerous KR's out there like this that we 
> never hear about.  It is certainly a testament to what a 
> great little plane the KR is.  Anybody else out there lurking 
> we could hear from?
> 
> 
> 
> Steve Glover
> Former KR-2 N902G
> steve.glo...@nvaero.com
> Corona, CA

KR> RE: Oil

[Joe Beyer]

In that engine I would use 30w Castrol or 30w Valvoline racing oil and
change it every 25 hours.

Joe
Melbouring Fl.

> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 00:20:44 +
> From: joseph lamberson 
> Subject: KR> Oil
> To: kr list list 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> Please ,who has a great plains 1835 like mine ,what weight 
> and type oil do you (any one) run?It came to me with 5-30 
> mobil synthetic.I do not belive this is right. I havent 
> fiered it up yet for fear of scoring the cylnders as I know 
> in my ranger pu ,after sitting for 72 hrs or so ,start up 
> rattels badly. Stuff seems to drain off . Am I just dreamin? 
> I shure dont want a nightmare that could have been prevented. 
> Any way,please what is the correct oil and weight ,and what 
> bout the old stuff? thanks ,joseph

KR> RE: oil presure regulator

[Joe Beyer]

 The VW cases used for aircraft are usually the dual relief cases. The
foreword relief plug is the thermal relief, it has the longer spring, and
channels the oil either to the oil cooler or back into the main oil galley
based on the oil viscosity. The rear relief plug, has the shorter spring,
and is the pressure relief valve. It channels oil to the galley and opens up
when the oil pressure is too high. With this rear plug you can increase the
back pressure on the spring itself by installing an aftermarket adjustable
plug that you can buy form any VW outlet. It has a threaded hole and allan
bolt with a lock nut on the outside, and an adaptor disk that interfaces
with the spring and the end of the allan bolt on the inside. It also comes
with a new crush ring. I've put one on my plane after I installed the new
full flow oil filter set up and I can boost the pressure on a low idle after
the engine and oil warms up. You should never use anything other that 30w
oil in a VW.  

Joe


> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 14:38:30 -0700 (PDT)
> From: phil brookman 
> Subject: KR> oil presure regulator
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Message-ID: <970489.78329...@web24205.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> i have a vw 1835 --and need to boost oil pressure a bit --i 
> notice there is a oil pressure regulator in the case how does 
> this work  ie does it blow off at 80-90 psi and allow oil 
> to go to the sump i was thinking of using  15w -40w oil  
> which would be a bit thinner than 20-50 but do not want to 
> lose oil pressure tia phill 

KR> RE: KR Help near PDX

[Joe Beyer]

Look me up in the spring when I will be back at Scappoose, Ore. 

Joe

Melbourne, Fl.

> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 21:49:12 +
> From: joseph lamberson 
> Subject: RE: KR> KR Help near PDX
> To: kr list list 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> Thank you sir I will make a point of both things. joseph

KR> RE: vinyester vs polyester

[Joe Beyer]

It's Vinyl Ester not vinyester. This resin has better strength and toughness
than the polyester resin and is the preferred choice for fuel tanks.
Polyester is very brittle and is low density. It's good for non structural
applications like fillers and laying up wing ribs and bulkheads. If using
polyester resin try to use the laminating resin instead of the surfacing
resin due to the wax content. Polyester is hygroscopic meaning it attracts
moisture from the air which is the reason for the wax in the surfacing
resin. It has to be cleaned or sanded off before applying a second coat. The
laminating resin, which has no wax, is always tacky due to the moisture in
the air when cured.  

Joe 
Melbourne Fl.

> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 17:46:07 +1000
> From: "Phillip Matheson" 
> Subject: Re: KR> RE: vinyester vs polyester
> To: "KRnet" 
> Message-ID: <3B6F34116E75481AAE56F35E076F5829@Phillip>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Fred,
> 
> Polyester should work just fine.  That's what Piper used to 
> build the tip tanks on the Cherokee 235 and Cherokee 6.  
> Polyester has it's difficulties in certain applications, but 
> it works quite well for a fuel tank.
> 
> --
> 
> DO NOT USE Polyester!Do you REALLY want 
> to take the chance?
> 
> DO a test yourself and let us know your results!
> put some polyester in some avgas and ULP.
> 
> I would only USE Vinyl Ester. ( not Epoxy)  unless the 
> manufacture says it's OK. not someone else.
> 
> Too many people have had problems with epoxy, I have seen 
> what leaking tanks on a Lancair does.. NOT good.
> 
> 
> Phil Matheson
> SAAA Ch. 20  http://www.saaa20.org/
> VH-PKR
> Australia
> 
> EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com

KR> RE: MADE IT HOME

[Joe Beyer]

I made down to Florida a couple of days ago in my '68 bug. It flooded in the
right passenger side going through Tennessee and Georgia in all that rain
but otherwise ok. Just found a good internet site in Stuart and now catching
up on email. 

Joe 
Scappoose Ore.

> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:27:27 -0400
> From: "mdkr2" 
> Subject: Re: KR> MADE IT HOME
> To: "KRnet" 
> Message-ID: <35FCED0FA4DF475DAA32A187D45A3EF7@adminPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Larry H.  wrote:
> >> Many thanks to Larry Flesner for all of his hard work hosting the
> >> Gatherings in Mt Vernon and also thanks to Chris the 
> airport manager for
> >> all of his hard work and efforts to make sure we all are 
> happy and taken
> >> care of. I just can't imagine a better airport manager than Chris.
> 
> ++
> I would like to pass on to others on the net that Larry 
> should also deserves 
> a thank
> you.  We have a new "Video Master" amongst us!  At this 
> year's Gathering, 
> Larry
> showed a video he put together of last year's Gathering, 
> still photos, and
> flying KRs. It was really a professional job.  He set up a 
> large screen TV
> in the lobby and ran the video for others to watch.  Many 
> folks sat there
> and watched it throughout the day on Saturday.  He also put 
> up a sign to let
> folks know that he would make a copy of the video for a 
> donation to support
> the KRNET.  I don't know how much was donated, but at the banquet he
> presented a donation to Mark  for the KRNET and enough left 
> for Chris, the 
> airport
> manager, to take his wife to dinner.
> Great effort!
> r/Bernie
> KR2S Builder/Cherokee N5736U
> Maryland

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 273

[Joe Beyer]

Hi Bill

I crossed into Florida today. What a steam bath. Hot and very humid. It
should be like this for another couple of months then spring like winters or
so I'm told.

-Joe 

> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net 
> [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of 
> krnet-requ...@mylist.net
> Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 9:01 PM
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 273
> 
> Send KRnet mailing list submissions to
>   kr...@mylist.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   krnet-requ...@mylist.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>   krnet-ow...@mylist.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more 
> specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>1. Re:  Bad News: N4DD Down at MVN (Phillip Matheson)
>2.  Home (jack.cooper2009)
>3.  Back from the gathering (Dana Overall)
>4. Re:  Back from the gathering (elm)
>5. Re:  the gathering (Mark Jones)
>6.  Crash Articles (Mark Jones)
>7.  also back from the Gathering (Mark Langford)
>8. RE:  also back from the Gathering (Dan Heath)
>9. Re:  also back from the Gathering (Mark Jones)
>   10. Re:  also back from the Gathering (Mark Langford)
>   11. Re:  also back from the Gathering (Todd Price)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 16:52:02 +1000
> From: "Phillip Matheson" 
> Subject: Re: KR> Bad News: N4DD Down at MVN
> To: "KRnet" 
> Message-ID: <5EC98ED5BB18468983E1EEC0F428344C@Phillip>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Pass on my best wishes to Dan.
> Glad to here he is OK.
> 
> Phil Matheson
> SAAA Ch. 20  http://www.saaa20.org/
> VH-PKR
> Australia
> 
> EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
> 
> 
> ---
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to 
> krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at 
> http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> - Original Message -
> From: "J L" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 11:01 AM
> Subject: Re: KR> Bad News: N4DD Down at MVN
> 
> 
> Very sorry to hear that. That does not sound good...
> 
> Hope things get better.
> 
> Jeff
> 
> On 9/17/09, David Mullins  wrote:
> >
> > Latest on Dan:
> >
> > He was transported from the local Mt Vernon hospital to one 
> in St. Louis.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > David Mullins wrote:
> >> Just a short note that N4DD crashed on landing today at Mt. Vernon.
> >> Dan Freeman has some good cuts and scrapes on his head, arms and
> >> feet, but should pull through. He is currently at a local 
> hospital being
> >> treated for his injuries.
> >>
> >> I almost had the crash in pictures as I was walking out of 
> the terminal
> >> to shoot the first KR arrival as he touched down and 
> bounced back up
> >> into the air. A gust of wind pushed him further up into the air. He
> >> tried to
> >> correct and get the nose down when the gust subsided and 
> he fell 30+
> >> feet to the ground.
> >>
> >> He hit with the nose down and the right wing down. The 
> plane slid the
> >> length of the taxiway, about 130 ft. The right wing folded 
> under the
> >> fuselage. The engine and instrument  were broken off and swung back
> >> along the fuselage side.
> >>
> >> Will give an update on Dan's condition once I hear something.
> >>
> >>
> >> Dave Mullins
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> >> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 13:16:26 + (UTC)
> From: "jack.cooper2009" 
> Subject: KR> Home
> To: KRnet 
> Message-ID:
>   
> <1615860991.5429371253452586173.JavaMail.root@sz0165a.westches
> 

KR> RE :Gathering weather

[Joe Beyer]

 I drove cross country from Scappoose Ore. And arrived this morning in Mt.
Vernon for the gathering. I hope the weather Gods do cooperate.

Joe

> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 14:50:11 -0500
> From: Larry Flesner 
> Subject: KR> Gathering weather
> To: KRnet 
> Message-ID: <0kpz007i88fth...@vms173019.mailsrvcs.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been checking the weather for the Gathering and it has 
> gone from rain to sunny and back to "iffy" with chance of 
> rain.  Someone needs to make a sacrifice to the weather Gods. 
> :-(  Who's going to step up to the alter? :-)
> 
> Larry Flesner

KR> RE: Vinylester vs T-88

[Joe Beyer]

I used Hysol that you can buy at Wicks or Aircraft Spruce to attach some
Diehl wing skins. We used that stuff over at Lancair for assembly of wings
and fuselages. It's strong and has a long pot life. 

Joe
Scappoose, Ore.

> Message: 20
> Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 18:08:23 GMT
> From: "electr...@netzero.net" 
> Subject: KR> Vinylester vs T-88
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Message-ID: <20090907.140823.1016...@webmail04.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
> 
> What planes flying with T-88 ? I've been advised to use 
> Vinylester for attaching Diehl Wingskins. However can some 
> people be alergic to Vinylester ?
> Is Vinylester more difficult to work ?
> 
> PM in AUS told me, years ago, that the preference is Vinylester.
> 
> Phil Visconti
> Marlborough, MA

KR> RE: Peel ply

[Joe Beyer]

Yes I did do that, I didn't mention it in my last post though. I used this
material on the sides and belly to save weight. I think using light weight
deck cloth and epoxy is also a good method to seal the wood, it just
involves sanding and filling. If using Dacron fabric there is no sanding or
filling. You can bond micro right to it when making repairs or blending in
the fiberglass from the aft deck. 

Joe 
Scappoose Ore. 

> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 12:38:05 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Larry H." 
> Subject: Re: KR> RE: Peel ply
> To: KRnet 
> Message-ID: <339259.21870...@web30006.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong, but don't you also have to use 
> PolyTak at least around the perimeter of the fabric to stick 
> it down? or any fabric overlaps?
> Larry H.

KR> RE: Peel ply

[Joe Beyer]

 I used 1.8 oz. Dacron glider fabric over the wood on my KR. No sanding at
all. Just stits poly brush over the wood and iron it to remove the rinkles. 

Joe
Scapoose Ore.

> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 18:43:24 -0400
> From: "Dan Heath" 
> Subject: RE: KR> Peel ply
> To: "'KRnet'" 
> Message-ID: <000401ca2e7a$476e28d0$d64a7a70$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Using Peel Ply is never "Required".  It is good when you will 
> need to add another layer, or just to bring the resin up to 
> the top to eliminate a lot of the sanding and pin holes.  
> Larry is right on the Deck Cloth.  I agree on everything 
> except on using it on the wood as I think this is unnecessary 
> work for very little if any benefit.  "MY OPINION".
> 
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
> See you at the 2009 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Ill There 
> is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for 
> Flying has begun.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> Subject: KR> Peel ply
> 
> If using deck cloth, is peel ply necessary

KR> RE: Goof off

[Joe Beyer]

Try kerosene with a cotton cloth, and use some good gloves. It has worked
for me removing gum from duct tape and plastic residue.

Joe
Scappoose Ore.

KR> RE: on a construction note...

[Joe Beyer]

I think a large main tank is better that wing tanks. There is less total
weight involved and no need for a fuel pump which can fail. Use a lowered
vent system instead of a vented gas cap incase the plane is ever upside down
in a field. 

-Joe
Scappoose Ore.

> 
> With enough time having passed since the the KR2 crash in 
> Valdosta to show respect and sensitivity, I want to discuss a 
> concern. I would prefer to have wing tanks with a small (say 
> 3 gallon) header tank up front, to try and avoid a similar 
> major fire  in a crash, should something so unfortunate ever 
> happen to me. This is obviously nothing special and has been 
> done before. I DO believe the Gas system should be thoroughly 
> inspected regularly. To that extent I would also prefer to 
> make the wing skins above the tanks removable with Zues 
> fasteners. I am also considering making the front deck and 
> removable wing skin panels out of aluminum rather than 
> fiberglass (usable for small cargo  such as overnight bags 
> and such). Any comments? Thanks

KR> RE: Fuel Venting on Canopy

[Joe Beyer]

With a foreword facing vent you have a ram air effect which pressurizes the
tank slightly. With the tank being full the fuel gets to sloshing and when
it contacts the vent port, it unloads. I had that happen on a Aircoupe while
I was a passenger once. We were buzzing a barn at a friends place and gas
came out all over the wind screen. That main tank should be vented.

-Joe
Scappoose Ore.
> 
> I am test flying a newly purchased Tri Q2.  On rollout fuel 
> started venting all over the canopy, lots of fuel.  It has a 
> forward facing vent on top of the header tank close to the 
> canopy.  The header tank guage showed about an inch from 
> being full.  The main fuel tank cap is not vented.  There is 
> a quarter turn shut off valve from the header to the main 
> tank which seems to drain fuel from header to main.  It 
> didn't seem to matter which way it was set.  Also didn't seem 
> to matter whether the fuel pump was on or off.  Any ideas on 
> what is causing this?
> Mitch Hargin
> N311DM Tri Q2
> VW 2600
> Clarinda, IA
>

KR> RE :nose wheel shimmy

[Joe Beyer]

 There was a good article on landing gear I read once that described the
caster angle in relation to the distance from the axel to the pivot point.
When I made my nose wheel fork I used those dimensions. I didn't have any
shimmy problems however on landings I would bend the spindle back a few
degrees. It was cheap though, made out of 3/4" cold rolled steel. I had too
much distance from the axel to the spindle and to solve the problem I
reduced that distance by rebuilding the fork. No more bent spindles (except
for that time I landed hard and buckled the nose strut) but it did tend to
shimmy from time to time. The most recent problem I had with it I added
enough spring washers to stiffen up the rotation. Now it's a little harder
to steer on the ground. That Diehl nose wheel in the video looked like a
shoping cart caster in the super market.

-Joe

Scappoose Ore.

> Maybe I should have emphasized caster angle a little more... 
> caster angle (the angle from the vertical pivot point to the 
> contact patch of the tire on the pavement, similar to the 
> trail on a motorcycle) can improve the stability and natural 
> tendency of the tire to track true. I agree with all of the 
> points that Mark L has made, but the video I saw showed the 
> shimmy continuing all the way down the runway... if the 
> caster angle and balance had been properly done, the shimmy 
> would tend to cancel out as the plane went down the runway. 
> Granted, I know more about motorcycles and cars than I do 
> about planes, but once the bird is on the ground, I would 
> think similar rules would apply. Yes damping is important, 
> but if the geometry of the set-up is off, it won't help the 
> shimmy unless the gear is "locked in" (too
> stiff) which kind of defeats the purpose of a castering nose 
> wheel doesn't it?
> 
> JMHO
> 
> Mark W
> N952MW

KR> RE: KR nose wheel shimmy

[Joe Beyer]

I had that problem with my nose wheel due to the belview washers losing
their spring force. I had to change them out and add some more shims. Now
the nose wheel caster is stiff but doesn't shimmy at speed. That Diehl nose
wheel in the video needs some attention.

-Joe

Scappoose Ore.

> I have just found a video of Ross Evans' landing at Narromine 
> '09.  The slow motion footage of his nose wheel shimmy is impressive.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIPrIurhybE=channel_page
> 
> I have a collection of over 70 KR clips in my You Tube 
> favorites for anyone with a spare couple of hours.
> http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=kr2sdarren=favorites
> 
> 
> Cheers
> --
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA
> 
> My web site: www.kr-2s.com

KR> RE: Nose wheel weight

[Joe Beyer]

My main axels are 19" back from the center section leading edge and the nose
wheel axel is 22.75" foreword of the center wing LE. 

-Joe 

> You must have a VW up front.
> george
> pueblo colorado
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Joe Beyer <joe2387...@gmail.com>
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Sent: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 12:58 pm
> Subject: KR> RE: Nose wheel weight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Nose wheel weight is 134 lbs.
> 
> -Joe 
> Scappoose Ore.
> 
> >   My kr is one of the heaviest out there and the nose wheel 
> > is 280 pounds.
> >   george mchenry
> >   pueblo colorado

KR> RE: Nose wheel weight

[Joe Beyer]

My Nose wheel weight is 134 lbs.

-Joe 
Scappoose Ore.

>   My kr is one of the heaviest out there and the nose wheel 
> is 280 pounds.
>   george mchenry
>   pueblo colorado
> 

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Vol 351, Issue 73

[Joe Beyer]

 One of the guys at the hangar lunch group years ago had one of those. All
wood with a retractable main gear. I've seen it up close and it's about the
size of an RV side by side two place. This was in '83. They flew it down to
California and on the way down on a landing roll one of the gear over center
links failed causing the gear to collapse. They traded it as is for an
Areonca Champ and that's how they got home. It had a small Lycoming as I
recall. Pretty good plane.

-Joe 
Scappoose Ore.

> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 11:32:53 +
> From: "John Looby" 
> Subject: KR> Cvjetkovich CA-65 Skyfly
> To: KRnet 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Does anyone know of this plane the Cvjetkovic CA-65. Need 
> info on it as I have bought one. It has retract gear that 
> might be usable on my KR2S. Or it might be repairable as 
> well. Thanks in advance. 
> 
> John Looby

KR> RE: EBay Fraudulent KR2S Plans DVD (again...)

[Joe Beyer]

This kind of stuff doesn't surprise me coming from Russia. You ought to read
some of the BS they write on Pravda. 

-Joe
Scappoose, Ore. 

> This makes me so mad!  I just translated a bunch of their 
> conversation; basically, they posted the plans so everyone 
> can build them with no payment to Bob.  It looks like they 
> plan to buy a tubing kit from VR3 so they can copy the 
> lengths properly.  One guy suggested that purchasing the 
> plans wasn't that much cost compared to the rest of the plane 
> materials and the original guy who posted "Dmitry" replied, 
> "why buy when I posted the plans for free?!?"  
> GGRRR
> 
> Pete Young

KR> RE: CHT Probe Location

[Joe Beyer]

 I've had my CHT in both locations. I prefer locating it under the #3
cylinder head nut sandwiched between a couple of washers. It is too prone to
break if placed under the #3 spark plug as it was intended. I didn't notice
a very large error in the temperature reading when located on top of the
stud washer. You shouldn't have to re torque all of the head bolts. I
changed my thermocouple location on a cold engine. You should use only one
new or a freshly annealed copper spark plug washer for that #3 plug.


-Joe

Scappoose Ore.



> I have heard several pros and cons about where to place cylinder head
> temperature (CHT) probes.  One placement is at the sparkplug gasket
> (substituting for the sparkplug washer?).  The other location 
> is under a
> head bolt (exact head bolt varies).  The sparkplug location would tend
> to have higher temperature readings than under a head bolt.  
> Then there
> is the wear and tear from checking and changing sparkplugs.  Does the
> sparkplug washer provide a better seal than the thermocouple 
> washer?  Is
> there any concern for how far the sparkplug goes into the 
> cylinder using
> different washers?  If I put the CHT probes under head bolts, 
> would the
> entire set of head bolts need to be re-torqued or just the 
> one bolt with
> the probe?
> Does it matter which brand of engine for the above considerations?
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> sidney.w...@l-3com.com
> 
> 
> Mark Langford wrote...
> ... I'd had the sparkplugs out and when I put them back in one of the
> CHT probes (which I noticed wasn't looking that good) got a little
> twisted and frayed.  That allowed one of the sparkplug thermocouple
> probe wires to short, which makes the EIS a little crazy...  
> 
>

KR> RE: hapi or aerovee

[Joe Beyer]

 They are both basically stock VW engines with big bore kits and use the
automotive crank. They date back to the '80's but parts should still be
available. The Airovee was used on the Sonari planes. I bought a few parts
from them for usen in my KR years ago. The engine mount bolt pattern might
be different on them with those add on bell housing castings.

-Joe

Scappoose, Ore.

> Netters please help me in a decision.I have a 1835 volks Eng 
> installed in my kr2 about 220 since top and about 550 since 
> new.i am in the process for my winter project to purchase the 
> aerovee Eng does anyone have the aerovee installed in their 
> aircraft .I suppose the pros and cons would be 
> appreciated.can i use the same cowling and engine mount since 
> i have a diel case with a single mag.on the 1835 hapi thanks vince

KR> RE: KR Electric motor

[Joe Beyer]

Try this link http://www.kitplanes.com/news/news/8403-1.phtml I heard a
segment on that Flight Time radio show. By the way is anyone still getting
that show on the net? I haven't been able to get for a couple of weeks. 

-Joe

> Hi KR Netters,
> 
> I have been thinking about the idea of using an electric 
> motor in the KR2, I haven't been able to come up with much 
> information even though I know these type of power plants are 
> out there.
> 
>  Has anyone worked with the idea of using an electric motor 
> in the KR2 ?. Or would anyone have any good idea of where to 
> start looking ?.
> 
> Thanks
> Bobby Burington
> CAlifornia KR Builder

KR> RE: POSA carb needle jet modification

[Joe Beyer]

I went through quite a learning curve to get my Posa carbuerator to work
properly. I had to shape the needle in such a way so that the fuel air ratio
was consistant through all throttle settings. 

-Joe

Scappoose Ore.  

> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 12:47:13 -0700
> From: John C Edwards 
> Subject: Re: KR>PISA carb needle jet modification
> To: KRnet 
> Message-ID: <48fce041.2010...@centurytel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Joe,
> 
> What you did is exactly what the manufacturer of my AeroCarb 
> said to do 
> concerning setting a wide open stop a little bit short of wide open.
> 
> Martek Mississippi wrote:
> > I remembered reading this about shaping the needles on a 
> posa carb. It was 
> > on the KRNet..may still be. Here is the Link for it elsewhere:
> >
> > http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Fix_Your_Posa_Carb.html

KR> RE: Revflow carb for 1835 VW

[Joe Beyer]

I have a 29mm Posa Super Carb. On my 1641cc VW and have a similar situation.
When I adjust the linkage so the slide opens all the way the engine quits. I
have the throttle stop set so when the maximum rpm is reached the slide is
about 90% open. Once I tried to adjust it out so I could get wide open
throttle by changing the needle to a more rich setting. On take off when I
was climbing out and had ram air the engine lost power and only regained
power when I came back on the throttle. I flew the pattern and landed, then
put the old needle back in and reset the throttle stop back to 90%. It works
well now the way it is.

-Joe

Scappoose Ore.  


> I have an 1835 VW with a 34mm Revflow carb and a 52x47 prop.  
> I ran it the other day and reached peak RPM at about 2/3ds 
> throttle.  More throttle killed the engine.  I asked Joe 
> Horvath about it and he replied :
> 
> "A 34mm carb for an 1835cc engine is extremely large.  The 
> air flow that the engine needs is considerably less than what 
> a 34 will flow.  Therefore, you may reach max engine rpm of 
> 3200 with partial throttle, but the mixture may be rich.  
>   Trying to tune a 34mm carb to the 1835cc engine will 
> not be easy. ."
> 
> Apparently I would be better off with a smaller carburator.
> 
> If anyone out ther has a 30 or 32mm revflow they would like 
> to sell or trade, contact me off list (ankerst...@embarqmail.com).  
> 
> Brad Ankerstar, SW Ohio
> N774A, KR2R, almost there.
> 513 932-2514

KR> Re: gap seals

[Joe Beyer]

I installed gap seals a couple of years ago and found no aerodynamic benefit
at all. They pre loaded the aileron linkage a little and after a few flights
I removed them. They were stuck on with silicone and the paint came off
where they were attached. Several hours of work wasted.

-Joe  


> when i installed gap seals yes i woiuld say i say an 
> improvement in roll and climb has anyone fitted vortex 
> generators phill
> - Original Message -
> From: "Rich Seifert" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 1:43 AM
> Subject: Re: KR> gap seals
> 
> 
> >I installed gap seals, and would have to agree; I saw no 
> aerodynamic  
> >benifit, but in my case they flutter at stall speed and so 
> they are now 
> >my  stall warning device.  You results my vary.  :-)
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Larry Flesner" 
> > To: "KRnet" 
> > Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 4:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: KR> gap seals
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Larry said: but I recall that there is no aerodynamic gain in 
> >> covering the
> >> >opening with the RAF48 airfoil.
> >> >
> >> >It is my understanding that regardless of airfoil, that 
> the primary
> > benefit,
> >> >and reason for the wing gap seals for ailerons is for the 
> benefit to
> > climb
> >> >rate.
> >> >Colin Rainey

KR> Cutting Plexiglas

[Joe Beyer]

Use an abrasive cut off wheel in a drill motor. Tape the cut off lines first
with electrical tape.

-Joe


> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 13 May 2007 22:29:26 -0400
> From: "Benjamin Copeland" 
> Subject: KR> Older Flying KR2 Purchase
> To: "KRnet" 
> Message-ID: <12ad01c795cf$b1c93170$86489904@BFCSONYVAIO>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 

> Questions: 
> What type of saw is used to cut the canopy? Is it the same 
> for Plexiglas and lexan?
> 

KR> RE: control stick

[Joe Beyer]

Years ago I flew down to Independence airport in a Cessna 150 and sat in a
KR-2, the first one I ever saw. I knew right away that the landing gear had
to go, and also after sitting in it the canopy frame had to be modified to a
more squared out profile. I couldn't get the thing closed without tilting my
head to the right. Also the dynel fabric the builder used was no good so I
used fiberglass on mine. Definitely go look and sit in one before you
invest. 

-Joe


> Marty Robert's KR has an O-200 and a non-stock canopy. 
> 
> And Mark's plane is huge compared to the standard KR.  My 
> comments about
> two up in a KR-2 are true of the original design.  No room, 
> heads bent,
> forward stick to keep the tail up on approach - just plain no fun.  An
> ordeal.  Gus is asking about the KR-2 I think.  If two are 
> going to be in
> the plane most of the time then some modifications are in 
> order if it is
> to be a comfortable experience for either pilot or passenger.  
> 
> I think Gus should find a KR and go sit in it with someone.  
> 
> Mike

KR> RE: control stick

[Joe Beyer]

I have found the best place for the stick is in the center with the pilot
sitting on the left side as per the original design. An arm rest is not
necessary. If head room is a problem then allow more room by making the
canopy bow less round and a bit flatter on top. There is pleaty of room for
bagage on the right side or a light weight passenger. 

-Joe


> Hello there.
> I have a couple of questions regarding the control stick for the kr2.
> 
> which control stick is much easier in all aspects of flying 
> and of course safer ?
> single stick side control ?--dual controls middle stick ?
> are they both safe to use ?  any pros and cons on either 
> stick ? any problems with the routing of control cables ?
> or it's just a matter of preference for an individual builder.?
> thanks guys 
> 
> Gus Casares
> kr2- N64635

KR> RE: VW ignition timing

[Joe Beyer]

A better choice is the .005 distributor over the .009. The .005 is set up
static at one deg. BTC and at that setting it will fire at 28 deg. at full
RPM. This is better for hand proping due to less chance of kick back. The
.009 is set up at 10 deg. BTC static and that will give you the 28 deg.
advance you need at full RPM. Parts are more redeily available for the .009
like cap and rotor. I think they both use the same points. You should be
getting about 2600 RPM static. I sure wouldn't use a vaccuum advance
distrubutor not even in a car.

-Joe 

> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2007 09:23:12 -0500
> From: "Mark Langford" 
> Subject: Re: KR> RPM
> To: "KRnet" 
> Message-ID: <001b01c77469$4799d340$6701a8c0@VAIO>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 

> Eric wrote:
> 
> > I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very 
> > smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 
> 2100 rpm the 
> > engine quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 
> 2100 again 
> > and very smooth running.The engine is a 2 l VW as 
> new,running on twin 
> > Zenith/stromberg carbs.Ignition (for now) is a VW Points 
> > distributor.with centrifugal advance and vacuum advance.I 
> intend going 
> > for a Compufire ignition system with backup, later on,but 
> would like 
> > to hear your views,on this engine going quiet and rev drop on 
> > increasing throttle above 2100 revs static.<
> 
> Sounds like the timing is retarding at higher throttle 
> settings, which would not be surprising if you have the 
> vacuum advance/retard unit plugged into the wrong kind of 
> vacuum source.  You need to make absolutely sure that the 
> timing is doing what you think it's doing, and understand 
> fully the operation of that particular distributor and the 
> vacuum sources that operate it.
> 
>  Most folks replace the stock distributor with something with 
> pure mechanical advance (like the Bosch 009).  It makes 
> timing dirt simple.  You set it up for a maximum advance of 
> something like 30-32 degrees BTDC at full throttle (which 
> ought to be over 2500 rpm, for sure), and then readjust idle 
> speed for whatever advance you get at idle.
> 
> Mark Langford
> email: N56ML "a" hiwaay.net
> website:  www.N56ML.com
**

KR> RE: VW motor id

[Joe Beyer]

> --
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 17:18:24 -0700 (PDT)
> From: bobby burington <bobbycrea...@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: KR> VW motor id
> To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
> Message-ID: <991484.26927...@web54603.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ascii
> 
> Thanks for the info, 
>  I cleaned off the the cob webs and dust and found a number 
> up by the pullys,  B6078925.  so now I will go looking on the 
> net for motor identification and see what it is.  
> Thanks again
> 
> Bobby
> 
> 
> - Original Message 
> From: Myron (Dan) Freeman <mfreem...@indy.rr.com>
> To: KRnet <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 1:18:08 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> KR2S plans
> 
> 
> Hi Bobby;
> 
> It's usually located on the top of the case (or block) near 
> the oil fill 
> area (pulley end) or on some it may be on the top near the 
> flywheel end. 
> I've seen them in different locations but always on the top 
> of the block to 
> the best of my knowledge.
> 
> Regards
> Myron (Dan) Freeman
> Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA. Home of the
> 2007 World Champion Indpls, Colt's
> mfreem...@indy.rr.com
> Posted - Sunday, 03/25/07 5:17 pm 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 
>  
> __
> __
> No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go 
> with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 21:27:19 -0400
> From: "Myron \(Dan\) Freeman" <mfreem...@indy.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: KR> VW motor id
> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Message-ID: <027e01c76f45$e6087910$6501a8c0@tacitus>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> Hi Bobby;
> 
> I don't show a B-6-078-925 which is the way my book shows the 
> numbers and 
> (note "A") say's that if your number is not shown in the 
> list, then it is 
> not acceptable for use in a V W Aero conversion, but the last 
> entry I show 
> in that series is B-5-230-000 which started in July 1970 and 
> was a Type 
> 2 -1600cc engine. You would do well to check another source 
> and double check 
> before you commit money into it.
> 
> Regards
> Myron (Dan) Freeman
> Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA. Home of the
> 2007 World Champion Indpls, Colt's
> mfreem...@indy.rr.com
> Posted - Sunday, 03/25/07 9:27 pm 
> 
>

Here is something that might help ID your VW engine.

-Joe Beyer


Volkswagen Type 1

  Code: Year: Engine:
  4 1960 1200
  5 1961 1200
  6 1962 1200
  7 1963 1200
  8 1964 1200
  9 1965 1200
  FO 1966 1300
  HO/TO 1967 1500
  H5 1968-1969 1500
  B6 1970 1600 (dual relief, single-port)
  AE 1971-1972 1600 (dual-port)
  AH 1973-1974 1600 (8mm head studs w/ case savers)
  AJ 1975-1979 1600 (fuel-injected)


  Volkswagen Type 2

  Code: Year: Engine:
  Numerals 1961-1963 1200 (see Type 1 listings)
  O 1964 1500 (no cam bearings)
  H 1965 1500
  HO 1966-1967 1500 (no crossmember holes)
  B5 1968-1969 1600 (single relief)
  AE 1971 1600 (with crossmember holes)
  CB 1972-1973 1700 (dual carb, manual trans)
  CD 1973 1700 (dual carb, auto trans)
  AW 1973-1974 1800 (dual carb)
  AW 1975 1800 (fuel-injected)
  ED 1975 2000
  GD 1976-1979 2000 ('79 has Vanagon heads)
  GE 1979 2000 (California only, Vanagon heads)
  CV 1980-1983 2000 (Vanagon -- unique case and heads)


  Volkswagen Type 3

  Code: Year: Engine:
  O 1963-1965 1500 (no cam bearings)
  TO 1966-1967 1500
  UO 1968-1969 1600 (fuel-injected)
  UO 1970 1600 (dual-relief)
  U5 1971-1973 1600 (7.7:1 compression)
  X 1972 1600 (7.3:1 compression)


  Volkswagen Type 4

  Code: Year: Engine:
  W 1971 1700
  EA 1972-1974 1700
  EB 1973 1700 (California only)
  EC 1974 1700


  Porsche 914

  Code: Year: Engine:
  W 1970-1971 1700 (8.2:1 compression, D-Jetronic)
  EA 1972-1973 1700
  EB 1973 1700 (7.3:1 compression)
  EC 1974 1800 (CA-only, 7.3:1 comp, L-Jetronic)
  AN 1800 (8.6:1 comp, D-Jetronic)
  GA 1973-1974 2000 (7.6:1 comp, 3 intake studs)
  GB 2000 (8.0:1 comp)
  VO 1700 (Euro-only, magnesium)
  1800 (Euro-only, magnesium)
  2000 (Euro-only, magnesium)

  Replacement Cases
  (Never supplied in new cars -- only sold over the counter. All are
  dual-relief with 10mm oil passages).

  Code: Year: Engine:
  F1 1300/1600
  F2 1300/1600
  DO 40-hp part if last digit is "X"
  D1 Sometimes a 40-hp part
  AB 1966-1979 1600
  AD 1600
  AK 1967-1974 1500/1600
  AM 1600
  AS Sometimes listed as Super Beetle orig. case
  for '73-on.

KR> RE: KRnet Digest, Vol 349, Issue 77

[Joe Beyer]

Good job on the engine Mark

-Joe


> Message: 12
> Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 22:10:32 -0600
> From: "Mark Langford" 
> Subject: KR> The 3100cc engine.  It's baack...
> To: 
> Cc: KRnet 
> Message-ID: <000701c75e13$0d94beb0$6401a8c0@2600xp>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> The "new" 3100cc engine works!First flight was on 
> Wednesday, 22 takeoffs 
> and landings on Friday, ending with a 15 knot crosswind 
> landing on my home 
> 40' wide strip , and another two hours today with landings at 
> four different 
> airports.  Life is good, once again.  See 
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/phoenix/ for the 
> gory details...
> 
> Sorry about that Joe...
> 
> Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
> see homebuilt airplane at http://www.N56ML.com
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> ___
> See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html

KR> Lancair 320 fire

[Joe Beyer]

Hello All

Check this out

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=14flpf72.jxetqae=0=1=g2ykx4


-Joe 

KR> Lancair 320 fire

[Joe Beyer]

Could you fill us in on the cause?

Thanks.

Ed

Ed Janssen
mailto:ejans...@chipsnet.com

Don Goetz sent me that link. He used to work for Lance in Redmond and was
the test pilot. He didn't say what caused it when I talked to him the other
day. 

-Joe 

KR> RE:Belly board location

[Joe Beyer]

I have built a belly board years ago but never installed it. I not really
convinced that it's necessary. It adds weight and complexity. Any other
thoughts? 

-Joe  

> Message: 21
> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 22:58:33 -0500
> From: "Brad  Ankerstar" 
> Subject: KR> Belly board location
> To: "KRnet" 
> Message-ID: <009f01c73b7e$173adc40$6401a8c0@oem>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>   reply-type=original
> 
> I checked the archives and found 21 posts regarding the 
> location of the 
> belly board.  It appears that the location is not real 
> critical since it 
> seems to be working at the main spar, the rear spar, or in 
> between.   My 
> board is 10" x 30", 1/16 aluminum with a couple 3/4" U 
> channel aluminum 
> stiffeners.  There are no holes in it at this point, maybe 
> later.  I'm about 
> to install mine and I'm thinking about halfway between the spars with 
> appropriate reinforcement. That would be the simplest.
> 
> If any of you folks that are flying KRs have any suggestions, 
> pro or con , I 
> would appreciate the feedback.  I'm building a standard KR2 
> with retractable 
> gear, a front deck that is a couple inches higher as is the 
> canopy, and a 
> somewhat oversized vertical stabilizer and rudder.
> 
> Brad Ankerstar
> KR2R N84BA, Building
> ankerst...@earthlink.net

KR> RE: rudder size

[Joe Beyer]

I have found the plans built rudder on the KR-2 to be sized right for the
plane. It has plenty of effect.

-Joe  

> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 10:21:55 -0800
> From: "Fred Johnson" 
> Subject: KR> RE: rudder size
> To: "'KRnet'" 
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Can anyone tell me if they feel the rudder size is adequate on the KR,
> especially in a heavy crosswind?
> 
> Unless I miscalculated (probably have) it doesn't seem to have enough
> area.
> 
> Fred Johnson
> Reno, NV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
**

KR> RE:Belly board location

[Joe Beyer]

Hi Larry

Where is your board located? Is it at the main spar or some distance behind
it? 

-Joe


> I'd hate to be without my belly board.  It adds the necessary drag
> for the landing configuration and make the KR a totally different
> airplane on the approach.  As always, your results may vary. :-)
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 

KR> belly board use

[Joe Beyer]

Just wanted to ask if they work better with holes in them. It would seem
that they would generate more drag that way. I noticed that some of them are
an aluminum plates with no holes. 
-Joe  

> I have no 
> holes in mine and it works great. It is attached to the rear spar.
> 

> 
> 
> Colin Rainey
> brokerpi...@bellsouth.net
> 
> 

KR> RE: engine oil

[Joe Beyer]

I use 30 w Valvoline Racing oil or Kendall. Castrol is also good. When using
an automotive plug, be sure to reduce the plug gap. Magnetos are not as hot
as a battery system unless they're up to speed. 

-Joe  

> Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2007 02:47:03 EST
> From: mtmcgo...@aol.com
> Subject: KR> Engine Oil
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> As the old saying goes--"the only  stupid question is the one 
> that is not asked"--or something like that.
> Anyway, what brand oil 
> are most KR pilots using?  
> Any opinions on the 
> automobile spark plug conversion when using a Magneto?
>
> Mike McGowan
>  N4288C
> 
> 

KR> Dale Wilson

[Joe Beyer]

I heard on the news last night that Dale Wilson a former KR Guy crashed
yesterday in an Avid Flyer and was killed. He sold the KR-2 (N32HB) to
someone in Canada last June. He was having engine trouble and got into heavy
fog near Twin Oaks airport.

Joe Beyer
Scappoose, Oregon 

KR> Spinner

[Joe Beyer]

One way to make them safer is to lay up a spinner in a female mold out of
Kevlar. I made two spinners out of this material. The first one is laid up
over a styrofoam plug which is what I'm using now. It's light weight and
flexible and is bolted to a .125" backup plate with four 3/16" bolts. The
other one is the same material and is taken out of a mold. That one I
haven't needed to use yet but when I try out another prop I will use it.
Kevlar is light weight and ideal material for the part. 

-Joe  

KR> Re: 4216 magneto

[Joe Beyer]

>I was told by an A years ago that either a magneto is working or it isn't
- that you can't really tell if one is going bad until it stops working.
Maybe one of you guys out there can help answer the question.  Guys
operating a single ignition system might like to know.



When a high time mag starts to go bad there is usually some warning like low
rpm or a rough engine. If all the ad's are complied with it should be ok to
use one mag. At least that my reasoning. I have been using one Bendix for
years and have been keeping up on the maintenance. Try this link for some
good information on magnetos.
http://www.sacskyranch.com/aircraft_magneto_troubleshooting.htm. Some people
around here badmouth magnetos, saying that they're unreliable, but just like
anything ealse if you keep them in good condition they won't let you down. I
like them because they aren't reliant on a battery and that saves a lot of
weight. Especially a Slick mag since they are lighter than a Bendix. One
alternative to a mag is to use a modified 05 distributor with two sets of
points installed and two of the cam lobes ground off 90 deg. apart. With the
distributor cap and rotor removed and two dual coils installed it can be a
pretty good ignition system. But it's a lot heaver than a magneto. You'll
need an alternator and a battery. I'm looking into this system for another
engine I have. 



-Joe   

KR> RE: How about a 4016 magneto?

[Joe Beyer]

> If I remember correctly the 4000 series Slick mags are throw away Mags
Sounds like I should just toss it now!  What do >you suggest?  (I would like
to go with a dual magneto/dual-plug setup anyway).   Thinking of calling
GP, as they >specifically say they can upgrade/rebuild my HAPI).  Thinking
new dual plug heads are in the picture.Marc Lee Winnig



I wouldn't run dual plugs in a VW. They don't benefit from dual point
ignition due to the shape of the combustion chamber and the fact that
drilling for an extra plug weakens the head. If you absolutely have to use
dual ignition (like in the UK)  then drill for a 12mm motorcycle plug and
use a helicoil. The combustion chamber is wedged shaped, and is ideal for
single point ignition. Not like a Continental or Lycoming, which has a huge
piston area and is designed for two plugs. If possible use a .005
distributor and a good generator with a battery instead of a magneto. The
best mag. to use, in my opinion, is the Bendix 20 series with impulse
coupeling. They're expensive. The new Slick mags are real good to use too.
Great Plains sells a real good 40 amp belt driven alternator. Check it out.



-Joe

KR> Re: Wood Prop Questions

[Joe Beyer]

Wood props should always be re torqued after the first flight when the prop
is first installed. It should also be re checked each hour for the first few
hours of operation. New fiber lock nuts should also be used. I always torque
my prop to 10 ft./lbs. If I've flow a lot and haven't been keeping up on the
inspections, I've found the torque values to be as low as 4 ft/lbs.  



-Joe Beyer





>Something I never really hear anyone talking about on KRs is torque values
on wooden props. Depending on the moisture in >the air or the lack there of
the prop thickness can change. In the Rutan EZE world, regular torque
checking was a >requirement. There were cases of flopping props and I also
thing there may have been some planes damaged or forced onto >the ground
because of loosening caused by atmospheric changes over time.

>I am curious if any of you ever have to re-torque, or if any of you ever
check the torque values of your wooden props.

>One more question would be, what is your torque values on your props.



>Thanks

>Larry H.

KR> carbs again

[Joe Beyer]

>Subject: Re: KR> carbs again



>come on guys I need some input. Im leaning twards the aero but Im not sold
on it. I know everyones got their opinion on >this one but I need a quick



>answer. I have a posa thats leaking like a sieve out the side and Im not



>real interested in fixing it giving to the fact that it doesn't have a
rich/ lean adjuster.I have an 1835 hapi and am >thinking in the future of a
possible turbo but thats years away. Help



I must be the only one here that likes Posa carburetors. I have one of the
early HAPI super carbs and never have to use the mixture control. I set it
up years ago and it still works great. You need a real good fuel control
valve at the tank, and the needle has to be locked into position before
flight. Also the flat side of the needle has to be contoured to match the
fuel flow requirements of the engine. This involves a lot of trial and
error. Once it's done the carb is trouble free. 



-Joe

KR> Oil Pressure

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 9

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2006 19:59:41 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

From: "Dan Heath" 

Subject: KR> Oil Temp?

To: 

Message-ID: <455BB7FD.06.03900@DANHOMECOMPUTER>

Content-Type: Text/Plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"



>I found out about an oil pressure booster for this engine.  Has anyone ever

>used such a thing?  It costs all of $8 and is easy to install.



I just installed one on my 1641cc VW and it seems to work out OK. I turn it
in about 4 ½ turns to get 60psi when the oil is cold and 15psi after it
warms up at idle. (1000 rpm) In flight oil pressure is about 30psi. I use a
full flow filter system and have a top mounted oil cooler. It runs at about
140 deg. F and can get up to about 190 deg. F on a hot day. I’m still
collecting data since I’ve made some changes recently and haven’t flown much
with the new oil filter. By the way the pressure adjusting plug goes in the
pressure relief hole near the bell housing end of the case, not the thermal
relief hole up by the pulley/distributor end of the case. 



-Joe  

KR> Aileron trailing edge thickness

[Joe Beyer]

When I worked over at Lancair they had problems with heavy aileron control
pressure at faster speeds. This problem was mainly on the 300 mph four place
plane. To solve this they thickened the aileron by adding material to the
bottom surface and making the trailing edge blunt. I don't think that is
necessary on the KR planes. On my KR-2 I used model airplane trailing edge
(balsa wood) stock.



-Joe

KR> RE fuselage covering

[Joe Beyer]

I used the stits system years ago to cover the bare wood on the sides and
belly with good results but If I had it to do over I would go with the
current method described ie. glass and epoxy over wood. My reasoning at the
time (1983) was to save weight. I just tacked the 1.6 oz. Dacron cloth
around the edges and then heated it up with an iron to tighten it up. With a
couple of coats of polybrush, it was ready for paint. It's held up fine ever
since. 



-Joe

KR> Nose gear failures

[Joe Beyer]

>Eric, 

>Just working from memory here but I think that I knew of 2 and

>one was on a grass field, I think that both folded the strut it's self. I

>am sure they were both before 1999 as I first found out about them when I

>joined the net. 



I folded mine in July 2000 due to a hard landing. You get a real good view
of the runway. I made the tube stronger at the pivot point by welding an
extra tube on the outside of the strut where the drag braces attach. Since
then I have had shimmy problems which I think I've solved by adding stronger
bellview washers.   



-Joe



PDX

KR> light sport plane

[Joe Beyer]

I talked with Dick VanGrunsven at the RV fly in last weekend about the new
plane he's developing for the light sport category. It will have a full
flying horizontal tail and the wing main spat will be behind the seat. It
will be two place with the fuel tank in back. Someone else told me that day
that it will be designed to be put together with blind rivets. Dick said
that a VW would be too heavy for that plane. They plan on using a Rotax. 



-Joe



PDX 

KR> holes in spars

[Joe Beyer]

I was at a EAA 105 meeting years ago (the RV club) and someone brought up
the subject about wooden box spars and the need for vent holes in closed off
wooden structures. The purpose being is to prevent dry rot not for pressure
relief. If you were going to strap a rocket to the belly and fly to space
you might need vent holes so the shear web wouldn't burst. What was
discussed at that meeting was moisture accumulating in closed off wooden
sections and over time causing dry rot. I took the time to carefully coat
all the inside surfaces with spar varnish and not get any of the glue
surfaces with that varnish before assembling my spars. If I was doing it
again I'd just coat the entire inside of the shear webbing with epoxy and
staple it together. I think a 1/8" hole in the shear web of each closed off
section wouldn't hurt though. I didn't drill my spars either and since 1980
all is well.



Joe Beyer



Pdx





>I presume you are referring to pressure relief holes.That is one of those

>issues which has been discussed many times on the KR Net and can easily be

>found by searching the archives. But, to answer your question, this is also

>a personal preference option. If you feel better having the relief holes

>then drill one in each chamber or through each vertical rib inside the spar

>as you build it. To our knowledge there has never been a spar "Explode" or

>delaminate due to pressure from altitude. I opted not to install them in my

>spar and I have not fallen out of the sky. YET!!!



>Mark Jones (N886MJ)

>Wales, WI  USA

KR> gap seals

[Joe Beyer]

I have installed gap seals on my KR-2 a couple of years ago and have seen no
noticeabled difference in performance. I am considering taking them off. The
gap seals cause more mechanical friction on the aileron rigging and that I
don't need. Also the wing is easier to handle when off the plane without the
seals. Follow the plans when building.



-Joe







Message: 6

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 22:16:10 -0500

From: "Mark Langford" 

Subject: KR> flying

To: "KRnet" 

Message-ID: <001c01c670bb$6cc93a00$2802a8c0@2600xp>

Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";

  reply-type=original



NetHeads,



I've been doing a little bit of flying myself.  Considering we were 

surrounded by thunderstorms, yesterday was a pretty smooth flying day.  I 

got in about 3 hours, first doing climbs, glides, and stalls, then adding 

gap seals and repeating the process.  Bottom line is that I could tell no 

appreciable difference in climb rate (and I have some pretty accurate data, 

gathered while maintaining 95mph in each climb, plus or minus a mph or two 

either way).  Stall speed might have dropped a mph or two.  Top speed 

appears to have improved slightly.  I'll have to dig up the E6B to find out 

exactly how much, but it's not much.  I attribute this to the care I 

exercised fairing the ailerons and split flaps into the wing (details near 

the bottom of http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/owings.html ).  Building 

ailerons per the plans yields a big fat gap at the bottom and that  begs for


gap seals.  One odd thing is that the stalls are now preceeded by some 

noticeable buffeting, which is new, and I'd swear it climbs with less 

fuselage angle and lands easier (I greased about 5 in a row at FYM), but 

these are probably my imagination.



I'm up to 519 KR "landings" (and still only on the second set of tires!) and


210.9 hours of KR time (sorry, Larry).  Maybe I'll get some more in 

tomorrow, as I plan to buzz up to MRC to visit Troy Petteway, a 20 minute 

flight...

KR> Glassing the fuse

[Joe Beyer]

Hello



On the subject of covering the wood fuselage, glass is overkill. It adds
weight although it is tough stuff. I used 1.8 0z. glider fabric (Dacron)
tacked around the edges with stits poly tack, and taughtened up using a
close iron. I brush coated the fabric with stits poly brush with just enough
to soak through the fabric to the wood. That makes a nice light weight
durable surface. You can paint over it with primer and whatever paint you
want to use as a top coat. I blended the turtle back with the fuselage with
epoxy and glass bubbles. It's still holding up today.



-Joe



Steve,

  There was a very lengthy discussion on using Kevlar a few years ago. One
of the guys had a large amount he came upon free or nearly so and the final
decision was that it was not worth the effort unless you were pretty sure
you'd be taking small-arms-fire.

  Save the Kevlar for pulling over yourself when you get flamed on KRnet...

  Glassing the fuselage is not necessary, but if you do, I am pretty sure
you'd want to use the very lightest glass you can as it is not necessary for
strength, only to add smoothness, but it will add unecessary weight. 

  Frank

KR> RE: Magnetos

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 6

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 21:29:10 GMT

From: "ralphnd...@juno.com" 

Subject: KR> Magnetos

To: kr...@mylist.net

Message-ID: <20060313.132927.4326.625...@webmail27.lax.untd.com>

Content-Type: text/plain



The Bendix magneto is a superior magneto to the Slick and if I were you I
would not let go of it. I have been running one on my VW 1641cc for years
and only had to replace some outdated parts such as the coil hold down
clamps and coil itslf. You split the case to get to the coil. There is an AD
on it and has to be replaced with the red continental coil which was about
$85.00. They are easy to work on and parts are available. I also replaced
the impulse coupeling cam and spring. The points can be inspected, the
capacitor can also be accessed and the e gap can be adjusted without
splitting the case. 



-Joe



>I have a very old Bendix mag no.S4RN-21, and have chance to trade it for a
Slick 4016 that was bought new about 25 years >ago and never used.What are
the merits of one versus the other? I see the Bendix has a cover to get to
the points, while >the Slick has to have the housing split in half. Can it
be split without affecting the timing, and do I need to split it >and check
the points and lubricate the cam?

>Ralph Snyder

>ralphnd...@juno.com

KR> RE: Gap seals

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 17

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2006 19:27:05 -0600

From: Larry Flesner 

Subject: KR> RE: interesting mod / gap seals

To: KRnet 

Message-ID: <6.2.5.6.0.20060209192429.02ab0...@verizon.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed



I put gap seals in my RAF 48 wings and the only difference I noticed was in
slow flight. Not too much difference though. 

I can send pictures if anyone's interested. I'll need an email address.



-Joe



>Didn't Troy Petteway try the gap seals on both the RAF48 and the new wing
and

>said the only one it made a difference on was the new wing in the climb

>rate area.  Mark Langford would know and probably has it posted on

>his web page if I were inclined to look for it.



>Larry Flesner

KR> prop strike!

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 6

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 02:31:55 -0800 (PST)

From: Frank Ross 

Subject: Re: KR> prop strike!

To: KRnet 

Message-ID: <20060129103155.46137.qm...@web32003.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1



>Mark,

 > Glad you're okay. 

>  Will you be re-covering the pilot's seat now as well?

>  Frank



?Mark Langford  wrote:

  NetHeads,



>First, you've gotta see the photo at





I did a couple of those myself. Last time it happened I changed the crank
shaft and made a new hub and prop. How are those Corvairs for hand propping?



-Joe

KR> any better resins to use?

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 1

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 02:54:09 EST

From: bdazzca...@aol.com

Subject: KR> any better resins to use?

To: kr...@mylist.net

Message-ID: <209.114d9439.31088...@aol.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"





I suggest using FPL-16A sold at Aircraft Spruce. It is mixed 10 to 1 by
volume and is easy to use. I used it in '79 and it has held up fine all
these years. Basically it's Shell epon (#862) that has been thinned down and
has titanium dioxide added to it as a filler. That's why it's white in
appearance. It is also FAA certified. West is good to use for less critical
structures. Over at Lancair we used it for filler with micro and flox. I've
used it to laminate up my prop blank and have lots of hours on it. One good
thing about Shell 862 is that it is high temp. stuff. The bad thing about it
is that the hardener is toxic.



-Joe







>Hi netters,



> I am about to start on my "boat" and ordered everything I think I need to
finish this stage of the project... I bought >the T-88 glue and bought some
of the WEST SYSTEM EPOXY... Aircraft Spruce was saying that this is easier
to mix than the >AEROPOXY system epoxies TRUE OR FALSE? Is there a
better composite epoxy out there then West? If so, what is it? Who
>makes/sells it?  Also I was looking through Mark Langfords online manual
thing and saw that he was using mircoflux >what is it and where do you
get it? I couldnt find it in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. Any advise will
help thanks.

KR> RE: Cowl Material

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 6

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 08:45:32 +1100

From: "Phil Matheson" 

Subject: Re: KR> Cowl Material

To: "KRnet" 

Message-ID: <00dc01c6188a$ae0ed940$ddab443d@Office>

Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";

  reply-type=original





Use Shell 862 resin and TETA hardener for structural lay ups which is heat
and fuel resistant for all applications in making your cowell and fuel tank.
It's toxic (the TETA at least) which is why we stopped using it over at
Lancair.  





>Can anyone tell me about the fire retardant that can be added to glass
resin 

>on cowls please.

>or where to look it up.

KR> engine lock up

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 16

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 21:26:58 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

From: "Dan Heath" 

Subject: KR> Bad day

To: 

Message-ID: <43B73DF2.05.03972@DANHOMECOMPUTER>

Content-Type: Text/Plain;  charset="iso-8859-1"



>Well, there won't be any flying for Dan and Jerry anytime soon.  We put the

>tail in a valley between the taxi way and the runway to get the tail low. 

>Jerry was running it at about 3000 rpm, with less than a1/4 tank and it was

>running great.  He started to pull back and the engine came to a very
abrupt

>stop.  It is frozen.  There was no indication that anything was wrong.  No

>smoke, no foul temp readings, no nothing.  So now back to the shop with the

>engine.  I don't like working on them.  I can build them, but really don't

>trust myself with it and I don't know who will work on a VW for an
airplane,

>that I would trust.



I had a similar problem during our recent cold weather here in Oregon. I was
about to taxi down the runway to check out a nose wheel shimmy problem. When
I started my engine it was real cold. It didn't start right away so I pulled
the prop backward about ten times because of flooding, and finally got it
started. When I climbed into the cockpit and applied power to get moving it
quit. I got out to check it and it was locked up solid. A few days later
after I'd split the case I found non ferrous metal chips in the sump (from
the bearings) and the cause was a galled ring bearing at the bell housing
end of the engine. That's the farthest from the oil pump. My thrust bearing
is at the #3 position like Revmaster. Pulling the prop backward might have
pushed the oil away from the gallery being as thick as it was due to the
cold. I have installed a brass fitting in the case for a full flow oil
filter. Everything ealse looked ok in the engine with a small amount of wear
and was a great lesson to me. It probably wouldn't have happened in warmer
conditions when the oil was thinner, and it was a good thing that this
didn't happen up in the air. I think cold weather brings out hidden
problems. Full flow filters are cheap and easy to install when the case is
apart. I haven't priced out the teflon/stainless steel braded oil lines yet
so it may not be so cheap. 

KR> Ken Rand photo

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 2

List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 11:33:43 -0600

From: "Mark Jones" 

Subject: KR> Ken Rand photo.

To: "KR Net \(E-mail\)" 

Message-ID:

  <26d1c67793459f43bf8da235f92b1f35c10...@tulsaexchange.tulsaokmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"



>Bob Stone has sent me a photo of Ken and himself from back in 1974. This is
one of the better photos I have seen of Ken. >We thought we would share this
with all of you. Here is the link:



Ken crashed in '79, not '74 as stated in the photo caption.



-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 12:28:36 +0200
From: "gielmarais" 
Subject: KR> KR1
To: 
Message-ID: <01c5f7f4$fe4a99f0$8fde17c4@private7ru2gv0>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

>I would like to know what the average pilot size is for the KR1 .
>Can a KR1 be made to fit a pilot of the following dimensions:
>6 foot 3 inches, weight 205 Pounds.
>cockpit width required is 24 inches.
>KR1 to be fitted with 1600 vw engine.

>Info required before placing order for plan.

>Thanking you in anticipation

>G.V. Strutt

I fly a KR-2 on a 1641cc type one VW with a force one type hub that I made.
That's the first over sized slip in, no machine work required on the case
and heads. The performance is about like a Cessna 150. If I were building a
KR-1, I would use the KR-2 plans and not make the fuselage as wide as shown
in those plans. A 1600cc engine would work out well for the KR-1.

-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 3
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 07:36:04 -0600
From: "Mark Langford" 
Subject: Re: KR> KR1
To: "KRnet" 
Message-ID: <001401c5f80e$82837110$0202a8c0@2600xp>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

As far as the 1600cc engine goes, I'll bet 98% of the folks on this list
shudder at the thought of flying behind a 1600cc VW engine.  The power level
is just too far down there for any kind of decent climb performance.  No
doubt it could be done, however.
>And 1600cc engines often don't have the
>larger "Force One" main bearing at the prop end, as done by Great Plains.
If you're going to the trouble of machining the case for the larger bearing,
you might as well make it an 1835cc engine, which itself isn't a stellar
performer either.



It's never a good idea to attach the prop to the pulley end of a stock VW
crank with the 92mm (1834cc) big bore kit without a Force One hub. A better
way to drive the prop using the larger cylinder bores is off of the flywheel
end of the engine but you'll need a reverse pitch prop. 92mm bore kits have
thin wall cylinders. A better choice is 90.5mm which is about 1700cc. When
running big bore cylinders too much material has to be removed from the case
which makes it weaker. If I needed more power I think I'd run a 110 hp
Corvair although I don't know how well it would fit into my KR-2.

-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 10
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2005 04:44:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott William 
Subject: Re: KR> Main landing gears - Drilling through spring steel
To: KRnet 
Message-ID: <20051116124409.29179.qm...@web31512.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

>Just my opinion...Use cobalt or titanium drill
>bits, turn them real slow (as in the slow setting on a
>drillpress), and keep them oiled throughout the
>process.

>Scott

Hello

I had the same problem with my spring steel tail wheel spring. I bought a
couple of those cheap masonary drill bits at the hardware store and they
worked using your methods. I had to drill 2 ea. 1/4" holes. I didn't have a
drill press then so I used a hand drill. It took a while to get through it
and ruined the drill bits.

-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

For Sale

I have a spare spinner if anyone is interested. Send your email address and
I will send a couple of pictures of it.

-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 13
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2005 13:28:01 -0600
From: "Mark Langford" 
Subject: Re: KR> Dual coantrols
To: "KRnet" 
Message-ID: <11db01c5dfe3$8aa92bc0$d004a...@net.tbe.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original



I installed a single stick, and after sitting in it realized that the center
stick was in the way, especially with a passenger, and could basically be
operated only with my right hand.  And the KR requires that you hand be
supported on something, so many folks with a single center stick have to
build a center console for that, eating up even more room.  Not only that,
but the geometry of the stock stick setup is such that when you move the
stick forward and aft, you stretch the aileron cables.  The aileron cable
tension is an unintentional stick centering device.  This led me to the dual
stick setup.  I always notice when I "check free control movement" during
preflight than when I move the elevator, the ailerons don't move at all. If
you must have a single stick, so it similar to my dual setup's geometry, but
place it between your legs, at least, but then you can't give dual
instruction either.  See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kcontrol.html for
details on both center and dual stick installations...


>Not only that, but the geometry of the stock stick setup is such that when
you move the
>stick forward and aft, you stretch the aileron cables.

 Your cables must be set too tight. The stick doesn't move far enough to
cause this at least not in my plane.

>And the KR requires that you hand be supported on something,

Not true. The center stick arrangement is well designed according to the
plans and after flying with it for a few hours you will adapt to it and find
that it is not in the way at all. If you have to free up your right hand for
something it's not hard at all to fly the plane with your left hand on the
center stick.

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 24
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2005 21:03:33 -0500
From: JAMES FERRIS 
Subject: Re: KR> To center the stick or to not center the stick???
To: kr...@mylist.net
Cc: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID: <20051103.210333.220.0.mij...@juno.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

>Where did the (not true) paragraft come?:
>Jim

That would be me.

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 8
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 18:58:58 -0500
From: "M & C" 
Subject: Re: KR> Aluminum barstock
To: "KRnet" 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

I did this back in '88 and it works fine. Send me your email address and I
can send some pictures.

-Joe

>I've still got the old spring bar for the oringal retracks so I plan to
just
>cut it into and use it. The oringal bar was designed to handle the landing
>loads so it it should handle any loads imposed on it in a fixed gear
>position. I've never heard of one breaking??
>Commits or suggestions welcome.

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

I used a runaround cable instead of springs. The cable tension is taken up
with the turn buckles.

-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

I used a spring bar sawed in two and tapered to make two gear legs. You can
get one pretty easily.

-Joe

KR> (no subject)

[Joe Beyer]

Message: 17
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 09 Oct 2005 21:46:00 -0500
From: Lane Meyer-Reed 
Subject: RE KR> carbs and flaps
To: KRnet 
Message-ID: <4349d5e8.7010...@bnin.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


>1.   We have a simple Posa carb (32mm throat) on an 1835 HAPI VW
>engine.  I guess no one does the "supercarb" retrofit to adjustable
>mixture anymore, so my question is, how many of you out there are flying
>with carbs like this, no mixture control?  If we should get a different
>carb, can we have a few recommendations without starting a small war
>between opposing factions?

>2.   We're removing the retracts and mounting fixed Diehl tri-gear.
>Someone said we should consider some kind of speed-brake, either
>belly-board or flaps, since we won't be dropping draggy gear any more.
>Advice?  If you write direct, please write to both of us, Rich is the cc
>address above.

>lan...@bnin.net

It shouldn't be too hard to install a mixture into a POSA carb. I have a
super carb from HAPI and it works fine. A mixture control is essential in a
carb like that. I have a couple of extra ones I'm going to modify with a
mixture control sometime soon. My plane is 24 yrs old. It's always been kept
hangared.

KR> Landing gear

[Joe Beyer]

netters

If someone doesn't like the discussions related to KR airplanes then perhaps
they should, instead of wearing out their delete key, should enter
'unsubscribe'.

-Joe

P.S. I prefer to keep it on the list.








Message: 5
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 11:02:03 -0500
From: glid...@ccrtc.com
Subject: KR> Landing gear
To: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID: <20050921110243.sm00...@ccrtc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain

netters
Did you know there are over 200 emails in the archieves related to landing
gear for the KR,and several on which set up is better and why it is
better.(in peoples opinion)And at the rate it is going there is about
minimum of 10 new ones daily here lately.Is anybody else doing anything else
we can talk about for a while.I'm working on getting the material together
to start having my Mark Jone's replica wing tanks made and getting my engine
ready to go together.But I'm spending most of my time learning how to land a
tricycle gear airplane at this time.I would like to hear how people projects
are going and not how one landing gear is better then others.Not trying to
be rude,and I hope Mark L don't kick me off,but I have worn the word delete
off my button.Well just wanted to post a quick note.Hope nobody is offended
just think its time to get past the landing gear issues.Blue skys and have a
wounderful KR dayBob

P.S. If you are offended please keep it off the list and email me off list
at   n18...@gmail.com

KR> Landing Gear (again)

[Joe Beyer]

Steve

What kind of bearings are you using? What is 'non standard'? In my case
they're the hand turck type and come in three different grades. None of them
are verry good, but the split wheel rim, tube & tire are. In my nose wheel
I'm using a 3/4" tube as the axel so the double tapered bearing has to be
able to fit that. I'm checking into what's available here locally for the
double tapered roller bearings. I may have to make an adaptor to mount the
races into the hub but not sure yet. I've got plenty of room outside of the
wheel itslef for the bearings to mount. I would have to shorten the spacers
though.

-Joe


Message: 8
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 07:02:04 -0500
From: "Steve Bray" 
Subject: Re: KR> KR landing gear
To: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Joe & Bob
The bearings in my nose wheel are rough when installed. Its new, never used.
I pushed them out and they feel good. I tried to buy new ones locally and
was told that were non-standard.
I would like to replace them with cone bearings also. Will I have to modifi
the wheel or can I buy the races that size?

Steve Bray
Jackson, Tennessee

KR> More landing gear stuff

[Joe Beyer]

Hi Steve

A 3/16 bolt would scare me too. Even if it is an AN bolt. In my case I use a
peice of 3/4" chromoly steel tube so I can insert a tow bar into one end of
the wheel fairing and move my plane around on the ground. I've located a
good tapered bearing from McGuire Bearing Co. here in S.E. Portland that is
well priced. I want a 3/4" ID and don't want to change anything on my
nosewheel fork because it works. The specs are: Timken #LM11949 @ $6.49ea.
(you need 2ea.) This is the bearing itself. The cup, or race, is # LM11910
@$2.44 ea. and 1.781" OD. I can make it work on my nose wheel. Another
smaller (sized on the outside) bearing that is available is #4A @ $15.76 ea.
(you need two) and the race for that is #6, @ $5.32 ea. I will go with the
bigger ones. Do a google search, get the address, and they will ship them to
you if that's what you want.

-Joe

Message: 18
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 21:29:16 -0500
From: "Steve Bray" 
Subject: RE: KR> Landing Gear (again)
To: kr...@mylist.net
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

Hi Joe
Non-standard in this case means they don't have it. This is a bearing
distrubitor that I've never been to that didn't have 3 to 5 grades, prices,
of any size.
I think the od was standard but the id was odd for the od. I didn't push it
because I don't like the set-up. It has a 3/16 bolt running through the
axle. It's a Dehli (sp) set-up and I take it that this works but I want more
between my prop and the ground. I'm a ways from useing it but when the time
comes think I will make another axle in a common size, 3/4, and put a 3/8
bolt through it.
To put cone bearings in means they would need a nut on each end to keep the
pre-load right. Ball bearings should work fine if they are good ones.
As I say I'm a ways off and still thinking of going back to a tailwheel but
was wondering if other people were using this set-up,

>that 3/16 bolt scares
me.

Steve Bray
Jackson, Tennessee

KR> KR landing gear

[Joe Beyer]

I have flown both the tail wheel and nose wheel gear on my KR-2 and by far
the nose wheel is the most practical, due to the increased visibility and
superior ground handling characteristics. One bad thing with the nose wheel
is that if you break it you won't take off, whereas with a bent tail wheel
you can still take off if you had to. At the speed the KR flies the added
drag isn't very great and with the added weight, (about 10 lbs in my case)
it is in the right place, up in the nose. I designed my own landing gear and
have had no problems with the mains but a few with the nose gear. I've used
a hand truck wheel with the cheap bearings. They work well but after a few
landings they will buzz. When that happens then it's time to upgrade to the
more expensive ones. Last week the nose bearings went out so I replaced them
for under ten dollars. They're rated for about 5mph. but if you keep them
greased up real well they can go a lot faster. Tire pressure is at 22psi.
with no shimmy problems. I use 4ea. bellview washers stacked so there is a
preload on the spindle, which is made of 3/4" cold rolled steel. Recently my
throttle was set too high and I had some trouble slowing down and that put
some extra load on the nose wheel. With the bellview washers there are no
shimmy problems, and operating on grass isn't too much different than
asphalt. The main wheels are Azusa's with drum brakes and are good for
steering and parking but not as good for stopping. I use the landing roll
for that. I'm in the habit now of staying off of the brakes right after
touch down. I think my next upgrade will be to install tapered roller
bearings up in the nose gear.

-Joe