KR> cowl hinge mounting

[Tony King]

I have a Fisher FP202 Koala with hinge pins holding the upper cowl on (the
lower cowl is held on with screws).  They work great - takes about 10
seconds to get the cowl off for an engine check, and about the same to put
it back on.  One pin down each side and two much shorter ones across the
front.  They're about 20" long but they just slide in - no need for tools
or equipment.  Each pin has a right angle bend at the end to make a kind of
handle, which makes it much easier to slide the pins in.  There's also a
small stud (basically a screw head sticking out about 1/4") in teh lower
cowl that the right angle bits clip into to stop the pins from sliding in
flight.  It can be nasty if the pins slide out into the prop - and the cowl
coming off is not the worst bit.

Cheers,

Tony

On 26 November 2014 at 05:44, Chris Kinnaman via KRnet  wrote:

> I seem to recall an article in Sport Aviation many years ago about a
> Midget Mustang builder who attached the cheek cowls with piano hinges. When
> installing the wires, he would lube them with something which I have
> forgotten and spin them slowly with a drill while running them in,
> reporting no problem with that method. This was before powered
> screwdrivers. MM cheek cowls are pretty long but the curve is not too
> sharp, so, not sure if the drill technique would work here.
>
> Chris
>
> On 11/23/2014 8:52 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote:
>
>> I found several photos detailing the hinge joint installation, and have
>> put them near the bottom of  http://www.n56ml.com/cowling.html. Looking
>> at the time stamps on the pictures, this process took me four hours from
>> start to finish to fasten the hinges to the top of the cowling (judging
>> from the photo timestamps).  It went somewhat faster on the bottom because
>> the location was predetermined. Something I've learned since then is to use
>> the narrowest hinges available to save weight.  They'll be fine...
>>
>>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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> options
>

KR> cowl

[Tony King]

Mike you've missed your calling (unless you already are a comedian in your
day job)!!!

Cheers,

Tony



On 26 November 2014 at 05:04, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet  wrote:

> Jeff said,
> >
> > " . . . not many pilots are going to be willing to pull the hinge pins
> to
> > look at the engine regularly before flight."
> >
> > I don't think anybody does that anymore.
> >
> > Mike
> > KSEE
>
> Thank you Mike.  You make a great straight man.
>
> *
>
> What?  I was cereal!  How often do we examine our car/bike engines before
> we drive somewhere?
>
> Cereally, some engines are more touchy about (aboot if Canadian) this
> than others.  My GP 2180 is an easygoing German/Brazilian/American engine
> that doesn't mind being looked at a lot but some others can become
> resentful and interpret being checked before every flight as an
> indication that the pilot suspects they're not trustworthy.  I know it's
> not PC to label the various engines as all being this way or that way,
> but it's widely known that the engines from Austria (R), some models
> in particular, can get quite touchy. Also the J* from down under has
> a reputation for causing trouble when they think they are under
> suspicion.  I realize each engine is an individual and have their own
> personalities so I'm not stereotyping . . . just pointing out that some
> engines, especially the sometimes overly-sensitive immigrant ones, will
> behave better if they feel they are trusted and not given the third
> degree every time we go somewhere with them.
>
> Mike
> KSEE
>
> 
> What's your flood risk?
> Find flood maps, interactive tools, FAQs, and agents in your area.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5474d2f1608e652f16324st04vuc
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> cowl

[Dan Heath]

Personally, I think "Trust but Verify" is an oxymoron.  As in, "I really
trust you", but "I am not sure you told me the truth".  Not KR related
unless you are talking about not trusting that your engine in your KR is
always going to perform as it told you it was.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC





-Original Message-



We are reminded that we must trust, ...but verify. 

KR> cowl

[peter]

We are reminded that we must trust, ...but verify. Peter
. . . just pointing out that someengines, especially the sometimes 
overly-sensitive immigrant ones, willbehave better if they feel they are 
trusted and not given the thirddegree every time we go somewhere with them. 
MikeKSEE 

KR> cowl hinge mounting

[Richard Kaczmarek]

My KR and several other aircraft I own have the wire hinges for the cowl
and I have never had an issue.  Take a look at how Van's does theirs. It
makes for a nice clean look and a better looking fit on the cowl.

Richard Kaczmarek
Fast Little Airplanes LLC
937-243-7303
On Nov 25, 2014 7:00 PM, "Patrick Driscoll via KRnet" 
wrote:

>About 30 years ago, I flew  Fly Baby from Minnesota to Florida. The
> cowl had a hinge and wire set-up and the wire was not secured at either
> end. Twice after landing, I had someone ask me what type of tach I was
> using. The wire would work out about 5 or 6" after about three hours flying
> and it looked like the prop would contact it each time it passed. (it
> wouldn't go out far enough to actually touch the prop). People sure thought
> it was a tach.
> Patrick Driscoll
> Saint Paul, MN
> patrick36 at usfamily.net
> www.pensbypat.com
> If you can read this, Thank a teacher
> If you are reading this in English, thank a veteran
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> cowl hinge mounting

[Patrick Driscoll]

About 30 years ago, I flew  Fly Baby from Minnesota to Florida. The cowl 
had a hinge and wire set-up and the wire was not secured at either end. 
Twice after landing, I had someone ask me what type of tach I was using. The 
wire would work out about 5 or 6" after about three hours flying and it 
looked like the prop would contact it each time it passed. (it wouldn't go 
out far enough to actually touch the prop). People sure thought it was a 
tach.
Patrick Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN
patrick36 at usfamily.net
www.pensbypat.com
If you can read this, Thank a teacher
If you are reading this in English, thank a veteran 

KR> cowl hinge mounting

[Chris Kinnaman]

I seem to recall an article in Sport Aviation many years ago about a 
Midget Mustang builder who attached the cheek cowls with piano hinges. 
When installing the wires, he would lube them with something which I 
have forgotten and spin them slowly with a drill while running them in, 
reporting no problem with that method. This was before powered 
screwdrivers. MM cheek cowls are pretty long but the curve is not too 
sharp, so, not sure if the drill technique would work here.

Chris

On 11/23/2014 8:52 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote:
> I found several photos detailing the hinge joint installation, and 
> have put them near the bottom of  http://www.n56ml.com/cowling.html. 
> Looking at the time stamps on the pictures, this process took me four 
> hours from start to finish to fasten the hinges to the top of the 
> cowling (judging from the photo timestamps).  It went somewhat faster 
> on the bottom because the location was predetermined. Something I've 
> learned since then is to use the narrowest hinges available to save 
> weight.  They'll be fine...
>

KR> cowl

[Ronald Wright]

Most times it is the "pilot" who is not operating the engine properly is the 
one that causes the problem.  All engines need to be looked at regularly.

I've had Cont/Lyc people switching to 2 stroke powered airplanes who have no 
idea how to run one and apparently don't care to learn first.  None of the 2 
strokes like idling, which we call 4-stroking.  They love running at or near 
wide open throttle because that is where they perform best. 

Any engine needs to be run where it operates correctly.  Pilots need to learn, 
before flying, how that particular engine likes to be treated.  Operate an 
engine correctly and they will give you great service.

Just my .02.

Ron



On Tue, 11/25/14, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet  wrote:

 Subject: KR> cowl
 To: krnet at list.krnet.org
 Date: Tuesday, November 25, 2014, 1:04 PM

 Jeff said, 
 > 
 > " . . . not many pilots are going to be willing to pull
 the hinge pins
 to
 > look at the engine regularly before flight."
 > 
 > I don't think anybody does that anymore. 
 > 
 > Mike
 > KSEE

 Thank you Mike.? You make a great straight man.? 

 *

 What?? I was cereal!? How often do we examine our
 car/bike engines before
 we drive somewhere?

 Cereally, some engines are more touchy about (aboot if
 Canadian) this
 than others.? My GP 2180 is an easygoing
 German/Brazilian/American engine
 that doesn't mind being looked at a lot but some others can
 become
 resentful and interpret being checked before every flight as
 an
 indication that the pilot suspects they're not
 trustworthy.? I know it's
 not PC to label the various engines as all being this way or
 that way,
 but it's widely known that the engines from Austria (R),
 some models
 in particular, can get quite touchy. Also the J* from
 down under has
 a reputation for causing trouble when they think they are
 under
 suspicion.? I realize each engine is an individual and
 have their own
 personalities so I'm not stereotyping . . . just pointing
 out that some
 engines, especially the sometimes overly-sensitive immigrant
 ones, will
 behave better if they feel they are trusted and not given
 the third
 degree every time we go somewhere with them.?
 ???

 Mike
 KSEE

 
 What's your flood risk?
 Find flood maps, interactive tools, FAQs, and agents in your
 area.
 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5474d2f1608e652f16324st04vuc

 ___
 Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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 to change options

KR> cowl

[laser147 at juno.com]

Jeff said, 
> 
> " . . . not many pilots are going to be willing to pull the hinge pins
to
> look at the engine regularly before flight."
> 
> I don't think anybody does that anymore. 
> 
> Mike
> KSEE

Thank you Mike.  You make a great straight man.  

*

What?  I was cereal!  How often do we examine our car/bike engines before
we drive somewhere?

Cereally, some engines are more touchy about (aboot if Canadian) this
than others.  My GP 2180 is an easygoing German/Brazilian/American engine
that doesn't mind being looked at a lot but some others can become
resentful and interpret being checked before every flight as an
indication that the pilot suspects they're not trustworthy.  I know it's
not PC to label the various engines as all being this way or that way,
but it's widely known that the engines from Austria (R), some models
in particular, can get quite touchy. Also the J* from down under has
a reputation for causing trouble when they think they are under
suspicion.  I realize each engine is an individual and have their own
personalities so I'm not stereotyping . . . just pointing out that some
engines, especially the sometimes overly-sensitive immigrant ones, will
behave better if they feel they are trusted and not given the third
degree every time we go somewhere with them. 

Mike
KSEE


What's your flood risk?
Find flood maps, interactive tools, FAQs, and agents in your area.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5474d2f1608e652f16324st04vuc

KR> cowl

[Jeff Scott]

>
> Jeff said, 
> 
> " . . . not many pilots are going to be willing to pull the hinge pins to
> look at the engine regularly before flight."
> 
> I don't think anybody does that anymore. 
> 
> Mike
> KSEE

Thank you Mike.  You make a great straight man.  

That was exactly my point.  If you make it easy enough, you will look under the 
cowl.

On my Cub, I pop two overcenter latches and raise the side of the cowl and have 
one whole side of the engine exposed including intake tubes and exhaust system 
when I check the oil.  I'll see immediately if I have an exhaust leak or 
cracked intake.  I have also helped configure a glass (RV-7) cowl to the same 
type of arrangement, so it can certainly be done easily enough for a glass 
cowl.  

Opening the side of the cowl is no more difficult than opening the oil door on 
the cowl I built for my KR.  If that line of thought had occurred to me 18 
years ago, I would have configured my KR cowl that way.  But at that point in 
time, I was in the "get it done and get it flying phase" of building. :o)

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM 

KR> cowl

[laser147 at juno.com]

Jeff said, 

" . . . not many pilots are going to be willing to pull the hinge pins to
look at the engine regularly before flight."

I don't think anybody does that anymore. 

Mike
KSEE

Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
Unique Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5473a3fca970623fc329fst03vuc

KR> cowl

[Flesner]

>   The reason I went
>to piano hinges in the first place is because the screw holes were
>constantly ripping out.  So, where you choose to use screws or camlocs, be
>sure to give plenty of clearance to the edge and make the material thick
>enough to withstand the use over time.
+

That's the reason I buried the 
washers  http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092584.jpg  and 
covered them with several layers of deck cloth.  That relieves the 
concentrated stress of the screw head and keeps the screw from 
cracking the glass.  Cowl is in good shape after 500+ hours and, with 
a power screwdriver, is easy enough to remove and re-attach that I 
don't hesitate to take on the task.

Larry Flesner 

KR> cowl

[Dan Heath]

I need to add one more thing on this cowl attach thing.  The reason I went
to piano hinges in the first place is because the screw holes were
constantly ripping out.  So, where you choose to use screws or camlocs, be
sure to give plenty of clearance to the edge and make the material thick
enough to withstand the use over time.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

KR> cowl hinge mounting

[Dan Heath]

And also, use the rolled hinges, not the extruded, for this application.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC





-Original Message-



Something I've learned since then is to use the narrowest hinges available
to save weight.  

KR> cowl hinge mounting

[Mark Langford]

I found several photos detailing the hinge joint installation, and have 
put them near the bottom of  http://www.n56ml.com/cowling.html. Looking 
at the time stamps on the pictures, this process took me four hours from 
start to finish to fasten the hinges to the top of the cowling (judging 
from the photo timestamps).  It went somewhat faster on the bottom 
because the location was predetermined.  Something I've learned since 
then is to use the narrowest hinges available to save weight.  They'll 
be fine...

-- 
Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> cowl

[Dan Heath]

Yes I have.  It can be a bit difficult to deal with due to the curve.  Most
of the RV guys at my airport do it, but still do have the problem of  the
bend.  I think that they use a pin that is of a diameter smaller than called
for with the hinge that they are using.  Certainly, I used hinge pins all
the way around and on the more straight areas, I really like them.  If I do
it again, I will try to do it more like the RV guys do.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Best Interior and Panel at 2008 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN





Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC





-Original Message-







has anyone used a piano hinge around the firewall to attach the cowl to? I
have a friend with a glass air done this way works good, any thoughts?

KR> cowl

[Mark Langford]

Another observation on this is that experience is a huge factor as well. 
  With a lot of things, like removing N56ML's forward deck (which has 
the canopy attached), I went for months thinking it was a two person job 
to remove that assembly (held on with exactly two piano hinges a foot 
long each) because it's so unwieldy.  Then I hit on the perfect way to 
do it, and it then became a one-man job that took 2 minutes flat. 
Installing the cowling was similar, until I figured out exactly the 
right order to make it quick and easy.  I had the same experience with 
the Swift...there's an order to it...and N891JF as well.  After three 
months of removing RV cowlings, Larry might come to like it too.

Bottom line is it may not matter.  Do what you want...it'll work out 
fine

-- 
Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> cowl

[Flesner]

>
>has anyone used a piano hinge around the firewall to attach the cowl 
>to? I have a friend with a glass air done this way works good, any thoughts?
>
>Randy Moore
++

There you have it.  Two diverse opinions.  Pay the fiddler, pick your 
song, and start the dance.'

Larry Flesner 

KR> cowl

[Mark Langford]

Larry Flesner wrote:

 > I help do some work on three or four different RV's and I've used up my
 > entire vocabulary of curse words on those piano hinge cowls.

Clearly, Larry's mileage has varied!

N891JF has screws, and it's doable, but takes three times longer than 
N56ML's cowling.  This may not sound important, unless you've landed 
because your engine is on fire, and you'd like to save your airplane...

-- 
Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> cowl

[Flesner]

>   Bury the washers in the 
> glass  http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092584.jpg  and color 
> the screw heads  and they are hardly noticeable.
>
>http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/taxi2.jpg  .
>
>Larry Flesner

KR> cowl

[Flesner]

At 07:19 PM 11/23/2014, you wrote:
>has anyone used a piano hinge around the firewall to attach the cowl 
>to? I have a friend with a glass air done this way works good, any thoughts?
>Randy Moore


I help do some work on three or four different RV's and I've used up 
my entire vocabulary of curse words on those piano hinge cowls.  I 
can install my cowl solo without a single curse word.   Bury the 
washers in the 
glass  http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/02092584.jpgYour  and 
color the screw heads  and they are hardly noticeable.

http://myplace.frontier.com/~flesner/taxi2.jpgresults   .Your results 
may vary...

Larry Flesner 

KR> cowl

[Randy Moore Newbern Tn. N318RM]

has anyone used a piano hinge around the firewall to attach the cowl to? I have 
a friend with a glass air done this way works good, any thoughts?

Randy Moore
Newbern Tn 
731 589 1330

KR> cowl

[Mark Langford]

Randy Moore wrote:

> has anyone used a piano hinge around the firewall to attach the cowl to? I 
> have a friend with a glass air done this way works good, any thoughts?

That's exactly how I did it and it works great!  See the bottom of 
http://www.n56ml.com/cowling.html for the "after" picture.  Surely I 
took some pictures of the joint you're referring to, but really, I did 
it so fast I may have forgotten to photograph it.  I'll see if I can 
find a few. I riveted the hinge to the carbon fiber.  I wasn't sure it 
would work, but it did.

One thing I did that made it easier than the RV installation I've seen 
is that I ran the hinge pin in from the rear, so it doesn't start out in 
a sharp curve.  When it hits the tight curve at the front, it binds up, 
and you don't have to worry about it loosening, although I did put a 
loop in the aft end and secure it with a #4 wood screw for good measure.

If things tighten up, you can give yourself a little more clearance with 
piano wire from AS or Wicks, which is a few thousandths smaller in 
diameter.  I also learned to wax the hinge pins if things got 
tight...makes a world of difference.  I highly recommend it over 
screws...much quicker, much more secure, and invisible from the outside. 
  I did use five #8 screws on the top of the cowling...because it's got 
a sharp curve on each end...

-- 
Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, hope your weight and balance is also good.


On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here are some photos of my new cowl at final fit check today before
> painting.
> Lower cowl has a closure fairing for the nose gear strut and a gascolator
> access door.  Upper cowl has an oil service access door.
> Theoretically, could fly now, but will go for some paint and decals.
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/1741855090535aecddd270f.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/150415788535aecddd4e18.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Dan Heath]

You do good work Sid.



See N64KR at   http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC





-Original Message-



 
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/1741855090535aecddd270f.jpg

 
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/150415788535aecddd4e18.jpg

 
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/164594493535aecddd7537.jpg

KR> Cowl construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, Larry Bell


On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 5:19 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here is a picture of the top and bottom cowl for fit check on the
> firewall. The old air duct for left cylinder bank cooling is peaking
> through the left air intake opening.  Will make an adapter for the front
> end and reuse the fiberglass engine cooling ducts.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/50792709452f2dd354a5ef.jpg
>
> Still have to cut an oil service door for preflight access and bond
> captive stop nuts.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the top and bottom cowl for fit check on the firewall. 
The old air duct for left cylinder bank cooling is peaking through the left 
air intake opening.  Will make an adapter for the front end and reuse the 
fiberglass engine cooling ducts.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/50792709452f2dd354a5ef.jpg

Still have to cut an oil service door for preflight access and bond captive 
stop nuts.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl construction

[Dan Heath]

Well, you have to remove the oil drain cover before you split the case, no
matter what.  You will really like this remote drain.  Any VW conversion can
use it, it does not have to be a Revmaster.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics?

Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 

Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC




-Original Message-

Also installed the Revmaster oil side drain today and found out what the big
grooves on the bottom side of the oil pan are for.  Actually they allow a
socket wrench access to the case bolt nuts.

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

OAT is 14 degrees F; shop is 68 degrees F and I am laying up fiberglass. 
The plan is working, so far so good.  Also installed the Revmaster oil side 
drain today and found out what the big grooves on the bottom side of the oil 
pan are for.  Actually they allow a socket wrench access to the case bolt 
nuts.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/98652666952e9bb01c1ffa.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

Here are three pictures showing stages of cowl construction for my KR-2. 
The first picture shows removing the peal ply prior to sanding the edges 
after adding one BID  to the inside of the top and bottom cowl to stiffen 
the pieces.  Second picture shows the blue marking for the future holes for 
screw fasteners.  Third picture shows the top and bottom cowl held together 
with clamps, duct tape, cleco's, ratchet straps and DNA samples.  Alignment 
duplicates the 3/32-inch saw kerf gap between the top and bottom cowl so 
that the end product will still fit on the firewall.   Six BID on the bottom 
cowl edge will create a joggle for mounting hardware.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/169414158952e99c993947d.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/17870480052e99c993bb90.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/45218438152e99d19c1ff8.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Looking good, Sid, Larry Bell


On Tue, Jan 14, 2014 at 5:33 PM, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here are two pictures showing removal of the Styrofoam plug from the cowl
> shell using a Dremel oscillatory tool with a scraper blade.
> Amazing how the foam increases in volume as chip and chunks.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/76336265152d5df7073dfa.jpg
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/144869089252d5df7076508.jpg
>
> Next after some more prep, will put another layer of glass inside the
> shell and 4 layers to support the edges and the fastening hardware.  Then
> on to construction for the cooling ducts.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the top cowl newly cut from the bottom cowl.  Not quite 
like birthing a baby, but you get the idea.  Have not seen that VW for a 
while.  Still lots more to go.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/139262206252ce090a5b74d.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Lawrence Bell]

Epoxy reducer sounds good, Sid. Thanks, Larry


On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:43 PM, smwood  wrote:

> Larry,
> Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro
> slurry.  I have never done that; did not occur to me.  However, with that
> thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer.  I just happened to have some
> left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work.  While we are here:
> Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I
> finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my
> KR-2.
> Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft
> Spruce.  It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl
> Isobutyl Ketone (MIK).  The label is not kidding when it says to have
> ventilation. Lots of fumes here.
> To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener,
> then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread
> dough.  I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring
> stick.  Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few
> more drops and mixed.  (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer
> gallon can really comes in handy.)  Kept adding a few drops at a time until
> the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can.  Spreads on great.  Need
> lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer.
> After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands
> very easily.
> Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in
> the mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding.  The extra epoxy
> tends to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander.
>
> Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy
> that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer.  Thin
> the slurry to your spreading comfort level.  The Epoxy Reducer evaporates
> quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact.  Spread the slurry
> quickly. On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it.  On sides and
> bottom, gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less
> Reducer. A rotisserie would be handy for this application.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>  --
>> Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly
>> easily?
>> Thanks, Larry Bell
>>
>>>
>>>  
>
>
>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>>>
>>> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass
>>> for this project.  Thank you Bernie.
>>>
>>> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
>>>
>>> Sid Wood
>>> >>
>>>
>>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[smwood]

I was asked off-line how I located where to cut the air inlets after 
glassing the foam plug.

I had put holes in the foam at each corner of the prospective inlet and
filled these holes with micro during the filling and sanding of the foam.
After the fiberglass had set, the white micro spots were visible under the
fiberglass.  Marked lines on the fiberglass with a wet erase Sharpie and cut
with a Dremel plastic cutting wheel.  Just to hedge the bet, I cut about
3/16" inside the lines.  Ripped off the cut fiberglass rectangle; hogged out
the foam from the center and filed to the final shape after spotting the
duct behind the nose bowl foam.

I put the micro on the nose bowl fiberglass after cutting the air inlets.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>> 

KR> Cowl Construction

[smwood]

Larry,
Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro 
slurry.  I have never done that; did not occur to me.  However, with that 
thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer.  I just happened to have some 
left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work.  While we are here: 
Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I 
finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my 
KR-2.
Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft 
Spruce.  It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl Isobutyl 
Ketone (MIK).  The label is not kidding when it says to have ventilation. 
Lots of fumes here.
To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener, 
then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread 
dough.  I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring 
stick.  Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few 
more drops and mixed.  (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer 
gallon can really comes in handy.)  Kept adding a few drops at a time until 
the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can.  Spreads on great.  Need 
lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer.
After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands very 
easily.
Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in the 
mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding.  The extra epoxy tends 
to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander.

Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy 
that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer.  Thin 
the slurry to your spreading comfort level.  The Epoxy Reducer evaporates 
quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact.  Spread the slurry quickly. 
On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it.  On sides and bottom, 
gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less Reducer. 
A rotisserie would be handy for this application.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
> Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly 
> easily?
> Thanks, Larry Bell
>>
 
>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>>
>> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass
>> for this project.  Thank you Bernie.
>>
>> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
>>
>> Sid Wood
>> >>

KR> Cowl Costruction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh 
fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg

Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass 
for this project.  Thank you Bernie.

Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Costruction

[Joe. E. Wallace]

Sid

It may need a bit more sanding and understand that is fun could you put a 
smile on her face  hehehe   Looking good.  jw

Joe. E. Wallace
jwallacep51 at gmail.com



On Jan 5, 2014, at 20:39, Sid Wood  wrote:

> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh fiberglass, 
> micro slurry and air inlets.
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
> 
> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass for 
> this project.  Thank you Bernie.
> 
> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
> 
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Cowl construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the new cowl plug mold ready for fiberglass.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/80076407452c35c69baac6.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Adam Tippin]

Thanks for the pics Sid. Keep them coming.
On Dec 13, 2013 12:09 PM, "Sid Wood"  wrote:

> Here is a picture of the plug for the new cowl.  The Styrofoam and micro
> resembles a toasted marshmallow.  Had to remove the nose wheel to get
> access for the power sander on the bottom.  It does look like a tail
> dragger.  Six gallon jugs of water on the horizontal stab keep the tail
> firmly on the deck.  Should have put some plastic over the canopy before
> starting sanding; stuff happens.
>
> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/55590932052ab37aa7da25.jpg
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
> options
>

KR> Cowl Construction

[Sid Wood]

Here is a picture of the plug for the new cowl.  The Styrofoam and micro 
resembles a toasted marshmallow.  Had to remove the nose wheel to get access 
for the power sander on the bottom.  It does look like a tail dragger.  Six 
gallon jugs of water on the horizontal stab keep the tail firmly on the 
deck.  Should have put some plastic over the canopy before starting sanding; 
stuff happens.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/55590932052ab37aa7da25.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[Sid Wood]

Here of two pictures of the Styrofoam plug sanded to shape and with Micro 
ready to sand some more with the 2180 VW trapped inside.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/212425457152a91bbfbd1f0.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/169508815152a91bbfbf903.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Fitted

[Paul & Karen Smith]

Just a quick post to gloat.
Did a rough fitting of the cowl and she looks great.
Can't wait to get some paint on it.
(link below)

Paul Smith
Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au
http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/

KR> Cowl

[Steve Glover]

Hi Joe,

The cowling we had at Sun N Fun was actually one of WW's.  We didn't have
one of ours there for logistical reasons.  I think you are right about the
need or extra stiffening.  One thing we may do with the cowlings we have is
add a 1/8" core in the areas you have mentioned to help with rigidity but
keep it light.  

Regards,
Steve

Fw: RE: KR> Cowl

[joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com]

Steve,
The one that I received was pretty thick. In all fairness I did look yours over 
at SNF and it seemed only slghtiy heavier than my carbonfiber one. Yours was 
also slightly stiffer than my one off homemade. The shape and size without 
measuring looked the same as what I had to start with. I might be so bold as to 
suggest an extra layer on the sides of the bottom half. That is the only place 
that I had to add more material to keep it in shape on the plane
From: "Steve Glover" <n92...@cox.net>


Hi Joe,

I'm surprised it was that heavy.  I'll have to weigh the bottom but the top
I currently have is only 5lbs.  

Steve

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 7:16 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Cowl

Larry,
If you go to http://www.krnet.org/krs/jhorton/  A couple  of the first few
pictures show the current state of my cowl and the very last picture shows
the way it was formed when I first started flying it. The cowl was orignally
bought from Rand but it weighed 18# before any fitting and changing. I
pulled a mold off and sold the cowl and made the one that is on the plane.
It is made from carbon fiber and weighed only 6.5# before I started
modifiying, It probably weighs about 8# now . The orignal way had an out
side scoop for the carb but the aerocarb did not llike it so I changed the
bottom to enclose the carb and filter. I have done some testing on the
intake holes and think that I canclose them up by several sq. inches on each
side with no effect on cooling.
Joe Horton

-- Forwarded Message --
From: "Larry Knox" <la...@lebanair.com>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: RE: KR> W, CG location
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:33:03 -0700

Question, Joe Horton do you have a photo of your KR2S/Corvair so I can see
what the Cowl looks like. NVAERO said his cowl was like yours. I just
received one from another location that has to be a VW cowl and so as
William has not responded I am still in need of a Cowl. Thanks
la...@lebanair.com 



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KR> Cowl

[joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com]

Larry,
Maybe the misunderstanding is that there is no cowl that is ready to mount. So 
the answer is it won't look like either. what it would look like is either 
picture minus the bumps (eyebrows) that are for my intakes. on the bottom it 
would fit all the way to the bottom of the fuselage at the firewall, no large 
bump for the carb or no intake snorkel. also no cut outs for the exhaust. There 
are no locations or connections to attach the 2 halves together or to the 
fuselage. You will also need to figure out where and how much exit air gets out 
of the cowl.
So as you can see there is a lot to do after you have the cowl shell.
Good luck,
Joe Horton

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KR> Cowl

[Steve Glover]

Hi Joe,

I'm surprised it was that heavy.  I'll have to weigh the bottom but the top
I currently have is only 5lbs.  

Steve

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 7:16 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Cowl

Larry,
If you go to http://www.krnet.org/krs/jhorton/  A couple  of the first few
pictures show the current state of my cowl and the very last picture shows
the way it was formed when I first started flying it. The cowl was orignally
bought from Rand but it weighed 18# before any fitting and changing. I
pulled a mold off and sold the cowl and made the one that is on the plane.
It is made from carbon fiber and weighed only 6.5# before I started
modifiying, It probably weighs about 8# now . The orignal way had an out
side scoop for the carb but the aerocarb did not llike it so I changed the
bottom to enclose the carb and filter. I have done some testing on the
intake holes and think that I canclose them up by several sq. inches on each
side with no effect on cooling.
Joe Horton

-- Forwarded Message --
From: "Larry Knox" <la...@lebanair.com>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: RE: KR> W, CG location
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:33:03 -0700

Question, Joe Horton do you have a photo of your KR2S/Corvair so I can see
what the Cowl looks like. NVAERO said his cowl was like yours. I just
received one from another location that has to be a VW cowl and so as
William has not responded I am still in need of a Cowl. Thanks
la...@lebanair.com 



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KR> Cowl

[Larry Knox]

Dan, they said they did the rear starter one as I actually talked to him
about it. Must have gotten to busy to bother with those of us that already
have their engine built. After the problems I have had with the rear starter
set up I sure wish I had the front starter. la...@lebanair.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-bounces+larry=lebanair@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+larry=lebanair@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Dan Heath
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 8:08 PM
To: 'KRnet'
Subject: RE: KR> Cowl

I could be wrong about this, but I think that William only has cowls made
for the Front Starter version, the one with the front that looks like the
one on the Cleanex.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2010 - KR Gathering in Richmond, Ky - I39
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
has begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

-Original Message-

and so as
William has not responded I am still in need of a Cowl. 

Thanks
la...@lebanair.com 


___
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please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowl

[Larry Knox]

So if I did get the cowl from NVaero it would look like to last Photo and
not the top ones. I also have an aerocarb and the poor cowl I have has a
large air scoop going directly into the carb intake. Does your carb intake
just use air out of the discharge from the cylinder cooling. Your engine has
the manual fuel pump and distributor set up mine does so it should work that
way. I see you have cooling set up for your coils, I think that probably is
a good idea. Do you have points or are you using electronic Ignition.
la...@lebanair.com 

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
Of joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 7:16 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Cowl

Larry,
If you go to http://www.krnet.org/krs/jhorton/  A couple  of the first few
pictures show the current state of my cowl and the very last picture shows
the way it was formed when I first started flying it. The cowl was orignally
bought from Rand but it weighed 18# before any fitting and changing. I
pulled a mold off and sold the cowl and made the one that is on the plane.
It is made from carbon fiber and weighed only 6.5# before I started
modifiying, It probably weighs about 8# now . The orignal way had an out
side scoop for the carb but the aerocarb did not llike it so I changed the
bottom to enclose the carb and filter. I have done some testing on the
intake holes and think that I canclose them up by several sq. inches on each
side with no effect on cooling.
Joe Horton

-- Forwarded Message --
From: "Larry Knox" <la...@lebanair.com>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: RE: KR> W, CG location
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:33:03 -0700

Question, Joe Horton do you have a photo of your KR2S/Corvair so I can see
what the Cowl looks like. NVAERO said his cowl was like yours. I just
received one from another location that has to be a VW cowl and so as
William has not responded I am still in need of a Cowl. Thanks
la...@lebanair.com 



Penny Stock Jumping 2000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bdce07f127e12d1fc9st01duc
___
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to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Cowl

[Dan Heath]

I could be wrong about this, but I think that William only has cowls made
for the Front Starter version, the one with the front that looks like the
one on the Cleanex.

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2010 - KR Gathering in Richmond, Ky - I39
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
has begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

-Original Message-

and so as
William has not responded I am still in need of a Cowl. 

Thanks
la...@lebanair.com 

KR> Cowl

[joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com]

Larry,
If you go to http://www.krnet.org/krs/jhorton/  A couple  of the first few 
pictures show the current state of my cowl and the very last picture shows the 
way it was formed when I first started flying it. The cowl was orignally bought 
from Rand but it weighed 18# before any fitting and changing. I pulled a mold 
off and sold the cowl and made the one that is on the plane. It is made from 
carbon fiber and weighed only 6.5# before I started modifiying, It probably 
weighs about 8# now . The orignal way had an out side scoop for the carb but 
the aerocarb did not llike it so I changed the bottom to enclose the carb and 
filter. I have done some testing on the intake holes and think that I canclose 
them up by several sq. inches on each side with no effect on cooling.
Joe Horton

-- Forwarded Message --
From: "Larry Knox" 
To: "'KRnet'" 
Subject: RE: KR> W, CG location
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:33:03 -0700

Question, Joe Horton do you have a photo of your KR2S/Corvair so I can see
what the Cowl looks like. NVAERO said his cowl was like yours. I just
received one from another location that has to be a VW cowl and so as
William has not responded I am still in need of a Cowl. Thanks
la...@lebanair.com 



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KR> Cowl hinge

[Solly Melyon]

Lee,
I think you should be able to bond the hinge in place with structural adhesive 
such as Hisol or the one made by PTM 

Solly Melyon-Mgr
AeroMax Aviation, LLC
www.aeromaxaviation.com
229.241.1175

--- On Thu, 9/17/09, Lee Van Dyke <l...@vandyke5.com> wrote:


From: Lee Van Dyke <l...@vandyke5.com>
Subject: KR> Cowl hinge
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Thursday, September 17, 2009, 9:57 PM


I should have mentioned that I want to attach the hinge without the use of 
rivets on the top cowl.  I have located a few web sites that show how to attach 
the hinge with rivets, but I have a clear coat carbon fiber top cowl that I 
don't want to see rivets on.  I think I can just glass in the hinge if I put 
large enough holes in.

Lee Van Dyke 
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KR> Cowl hinge

[Lee Van Dyke]

I should have mentioned that I want to attach the hinge without the use of 
rivets on the top cowl.  I have located a few web sites that show how to attach 
the hinge with rivets, but I have a clear coat carbon fiber top cowl that I 
don't want to see rivets on.  I think I can just glass in the hinge if I put 
large enough holes in.

Lee Van Dyke 

KR> Cowl hinge

[Lee Van Dyke]

Netters,  Is there a good web site to show the process on installing colw 
hinges?  I have a new cowl and need to see the process.  Mark L does a good job 
with his colw but no photos of adding the hinge and the pin.

Lee Van Dyke

PS  Everybody have a great time at the Gathering.

KR> Cowl Fitting

[smwood]

Here are two pictures of my newly fitted cowl.  The 4-inch holes are the 
main engine cooling by ducts to each bank.  The ducts are ready, but not 
installed when the picture was taken.  One 2-inch hole is for carb air; the 
other goes to the oil cooler and cabin heat.  One 1-inch hole goes to the 
gascolator; the other goes to cool the electronic ignition module, 
alternator rectifier and alternator.  SCAT ducting gets the air where it 
needs to be.  The bump on top hides the pickup for the electronic ignition 
and mechanical fuel pump.
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/105239088249c1a75519b72.jpg
http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/images/96145229449c1a75526b71.jpg
Next is Smooth Prime and painting.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Cowl locks

[Phil Matheson]

I'm fitting my new cowl, after many mods, What do you  consider the best way 
of fixing the cowl?
If I use aircraft screws what type of Anchor nut suits the cowl, and would 
rivets or flox be best to fit them?
Piano hinge, did you use rivets or glass to hold them in place???


Phil Matheson
VH-PKR
mathes...@dodo.com.au
0358833588
Australia
Web Page
http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/
See  VW Engines
http://www.vw-engines.com/
www.homebuilt-aviation.com/

KR> Cowl locks

[Colin Rainey]

Personally I like the method Mar Jones first used: The barn door hinge.
Dang! Did I say that? Its Friday

Colin Rainey
brokerpi...@bellsouth.net <mailto:brokerpi...@bellsouth.net>



-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Phil Matheson
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 4:13 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: RE: KR> Cowl locks


I'm fitting my new cowl, after many mods, What do you  consider the best way
of fixing the cowl?
If I use aircraft screws what type of Anchor nut suits the cowl, and would
rivets or flox be best to fit them?
Piano hinge, did you use rivets or glass to hold them in place???


Phil Matheson
VH-PKR
mathes...@dodo.com.au
0358833588
Australia
Web Page
http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/
See  VW Engines
http://www.vw-engines.com/
www.homebuilt-aviation.com/



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KR> Cowl locks

[Dan Heath]

I prefer piano hinges.  Drill a lot of holes in the hinge, add flox and
rivet. 

See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
See you at the 2007 - KR Gathering
There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for Flying
has begun.
Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
---Original Message---

From: Phil Matheson
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: 09/01/06 16:13:42
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: RE: KR> Cowl locks

I'm fitting my new cowl, after many mods, What do you  consider the best way
of fixing the cowl?
If I use aircraft screws what type of Anchor nut suits the cowl, and would
rivets or flox be best to fit them?
Piano hinge, did you use rivets or glass to hold them in place???


Phil Matheson
VH-PKR
mathes...@dodo.com.au
0358833588
Australia
Web Page
http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/
See  VW Engines
http://www.vw-engines.com/
www.homebuilt-aviation.com/



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KR> cowl locks

[Colin Rainey]

Seriously, if you have the forward lifting, then the slide lock with pins
appears to be the most secure and reliable.
The latch Dan Heath made is the best I have seen. It has an over center
spring to hold it in both open and closed position
Colin Rainey
brokerpi...@bellsouth.net

Réf. : Re: RE: KR> Cowl locks

[Serge VIDAL]

Phil,

Mine is done entirely with Dzuss fasteners, and I love them. I have Dzuss 
to hold the cowl to the firewall, and to hold the two cowl halves 
together. For the two years I have flown the plane, I removed the top half 
of the cowl for each pre-flight without any effort.

Dzuss are also extremely easy to install. Each one holds on a simple 
S-shaped spring wire, which is held by two screws or two rivets. One pilot 
hole is enough to get an accurate position of the fastener on bothe the 
cowl and the support plate. 

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France
Soon packing for Down Under...





"Phil Matheson" <mathes...@dodo.com.au>

Envoyé par : krnet-boun...@mylist.net
01/09/2006 22:13
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 01/09/2006 22:13


Pour :  "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
cc :(ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: RE: KR> Cowl locks



I'm fitting my new cowl, after many mods, What do you  consider the best 
way 
of fixing the cowl?
If I use aircraft screws what type of Anchor nut suits the cowl, and would 

rivets or flox be best to fit them?
Piano hinge, did you use rivets or glass to hold them in place???


Phil Matheson
VH-PKR
mathes...@dodo.com.au
0358833588
Australia
Web Page
http://www.philskr2.50megs.com/
See  VW Engines
http://www.vw-engines.com/
www.homebuilt-aviation.com/



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KR> Cowl puzzle

[bo...@hatconversions.com]

The cowl, she is on..but..to get it up close to the bottom
of the airplane, I have to build an oil tank..Anybody got any
drawings?? Any ideas? Thinking about building a square tank that I can
machine cooling fins in, but can also use as an alt air source. Think
about that one over cocktails.Bobby

KR> Cowl puzzle

[Larry Flesner]

At 09:04 PM 4/8/2006, you wrote:
>The cowl, she is on..but..to get it up close to the bottom
>of the airplane, I have to build an oil tank..Anybody got any
>drawings?? Any ideas?   Bobby


Can you take the 4 quart tank and add a two quart addition to the
back side or otherwise modify the 4 quart kidney tank?  Or take
the six quart tank , cut off the neck, use the neck and mount to
any shape, rectangular, slopped, etc that will fit?  If you will be
running an oil filter I'd just add a quart or so to the 4 quart tank
and run with it.

If nothing works out, check out:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/
and look at the bottom of my cowl.  It is modified to fit over
a "stock" 0-200 just the way it came off a C-150.  If necessary,
I could lay up a couple of layers of glass over plastic that I
could ship to you to add to the bottom of your cowl.  Probably
could make that happen for say, $25 materials and shipping
cost.  Can't make a business out of it for that price but if you
need it let me know.

Larry Flesner

KR> Cowl puzzle

[bo...@hatconversions.com]

Larry,
 Finally got this all nailed down and where I want it. I sure
appreciate your offer but I think I want to take a stab at building
an aluminum tank for this thing that I can fin and also maybe even
have a little more than 6 quarts of oil. I'm trying to keep
everything as slick as possible so that when I get done it will fly
within 20 or 30 miles an hour of you guys hauling my big -ss. I'll
send you a pic of it so far...Thanks again,  Bobby






> At 09:04 PM 4/8/2006, you wrote:
>>The cowl, she is on..but..to get it up close to the
>> bottom
>>of the airplane, I have to build an oil tank..Anybody got any
>>drawings?? Any ideas?   Bobby
> 
>
> Can you take the 4 quart tank and add a two quart addition to the
> back side or otherwise modify the 4 quart kidney tank?  Or take
> the six quart tank , cut off the neck, use the neck and mount to
> any shape, rectangular, slopped, etc that will fit?  If you will be
> running an oil filter I'd just add a quart or so to the 4 quart tank
> and run with it.
>
> If nothing works out, check out:
> http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/flesner/
> and look at the bottom of my cowl.  It is modified to fit over
> a "stock" 0-200 just the way it came off a C-150.  If necessary,
> I could lay up a couple of layers of glass over plastic that I
> could ship to you to add to the bottom of your cowl.  Probably
> could make that happen for say, $25 materials and shipping
> cost.  Can't make a business out of it for that price but if you
> need it let me know.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> cowl air flow clean up

[Larry Flesner]

Does anyone have any experience with closing up the hole in
the nose of the cowl around the prop shaft and getting any
better cooling or less cooling drag?  My cowl has a 9 inch
opening directly behind the spinner with a 1/4" gap between
the spinner and the cowl.  My cowl is setting in the garage
right now with the resin curing on a 1/4" thick foam plug
that I installed to fill the hole.  I will cut a hole tomorrow for
the prop shaft.  Can I expect a noticeable difference in cooling
drag or airflow through the cowl?  Will I have to throttle back
now in cruise to keep from exceeding redline?  :-)

Larry Flesner

KR> Cowl Material

[Phil Matheson]

Can anyone tell me about the fire retardant that can be added to glass resin 
on cowls please.
or where to look it up.

Phil Matheson
mathes...@dodo.com.au
VH-PKR  ( Phil's KR)
61 3 58833588
Australia.( Down Under)
See My KR2 Building Web Page at:
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html
See our VW Engines and Home built web page at
http://www.vw-engines.com/
www.homebuilt-aviation.com/

KR> Cowl Material

[Stephen Teate]

The chemical that I am familiar with is called Bromine. There are
others. It is a powder or liquid and I believe the powder is a light
brown or tan. The liquid is a red color. I couldn't even begin to tell
you how to mix it with your base resin. I am going to be using Ashland
92 FR for my cowling and cowling duct work. It is a vinyl ester resin
that already has this mixed into it. As I live in Fort Worth I can get
it from a local wholesaler (Graco Supply). Just a side note, a better
description of this stuff would be "self-extinguishing". When you throw
fuel on a cured piece and light it the fuel and resin will burn, but
when the fuel is done the resin will extinguish itself.

Stephen
ste...@compositecooling.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
Behalf Of Phil Matheson
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 3:46 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Cowl Material


Can anyone tell me about the fire retardant that can be added to glass
resin 
on cowls please.
or where to look it up.

Phil Matheson
mathes...@dodo.com.au
VH-PKR  ( Phil's KR)
61 3 58833588
Australia.( Down Under)
See My KR2 Building Web Page at:
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/flyingkrphil/VHPKR.html
See our VW Engines and Home built web page at
http://www.vw-engines.com/
www.homebuilt-aviation.com/


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KR> Cowl Attach with Piano Hinge

[Mark Jones]

Aluminum, rolled, 1.5" wide held on with stainless steel metal screws.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj


- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 8:51 PM
Subject: KR> Cowl Attach with Piano Hinge


> For those of you who have already attached your bottom sides of your
cowling
> to the firewall using piano hinges, what kind and size did you use?
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering
>
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
>
> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for
building
> has expired.
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> KR Cowl on eBay

[Charles Buddy & Cheryl Midkiff]

If anyone is interested, there is a KR cowl on eBay. The starting bid is 
$99.00. The item number is 4533596872 .



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem=1=4533596872=STRK:MEWA:IT


Bud Midkiff
Lynnwood, WA 

KR> cowl hinge lessons learned

[Rick Human]

Or you can go to the Hobby Shop and get the next smaller size of music wire
to replace the pin. Tried it both ways and the smaller size is easier and
gives better results.

- Original Message -
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kr...@engalt.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 10:00 PM
Subject: KR> cowl hinge lessons learned


> I have found out the hard way that it is much better to use the rolled
> hinges when you use them to attach your top and bottom cowl halves
together
> instead of the extruded hinges.  If I had bought them just for the cowl I
> would have used the cheaper rolled hinges that are plenty strong for the
> application, but I had a bunch of extra extruded hinge.
>
> The problem with the extruded hinge is that the hinge pin fits much
tighter
> and you have a lot harder time getting the pin in and out if your
alignment
> is not perfect.  Fortunately, a KR has a relatively straight cowl at the
> attach point so it is not usually a problem, but my Mustang has a fairly
> rounded cowl shape and the hinge goes around a gradual curve.
>
> I have found that if you have a very tight hinge pin that you can take a
> long hinge pin and beat it about an inch from the end with a hammer to
> flatten it.  Then you file it sort of rectangular to get the correct size
> and sharp corners.  File a bullet shape on the end and you can put it in a
> drill and use it to make the holes bigger.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> cowl hinge lessons learned

[Brian Kraut]

I have found out the hard way that it is much better to use the rolled
hinges when you use them to attach your top and bottom cowl halves together
instead of the extruded hinges.  If I had bought them just for the cowl I
would have used the cheaper rolled hinges that are plenty strong for the
application, but I had a bunch of extra extruded hinge.

The problem with the extruded hinge is that the hinge pin fits much tighter
and you have a lot harder time getting the pin in and out if your alignment
is not perfect.  Fortunately, a KR has a relatively straight cowl at the
attach point so it is not usually a problem, but my Mustang has a fairly
rounded cowl shape and the hinge goes around a gradual curve.

I have found that if you have a very tight hinge pin that you can take a
long hinge pin and beat it about an inch from the end with a hammer to
flatten it.  Then you file it sort of rectangular to get the correct size
and sharp corners.  File a bullet shape on the end and you can put it in a
drill and use it to make the holes bigger.

Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com

KR> cowl

[Joseph H Horton]

Dan Heath
What mistake number should I apply to this? I spent the better part of
yesterday fitting my top and bottom cowl halfs. I finially was satisfied
with the top all attached in place. I decided to hold the spinner in
place to check for clearance and location too. That's when i found that I
hadn't allowed for the bulkhead of the spinner which has almost a 5/8"
recess. At least I had fit it to long and could trim the cowl down again.
I'm pretty sure I'm developing a twi, twit,-- Twitch.
Joe Horton
Coopersburg, Pa.
joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com

KR>Cowl inlet tip.

[Mark Jones]

As I was strolling around Home Depot in the gutter / duct department, I 
happened across some air duct inlet scoops. My first thought waswow, what a 
perfect form to use on a cowl as the air inlet. They have two sizes, one is 4 x 
6 and is aluminum. This inlet was pressed in a mold therefore all the corners 
are round and smooth. The other size was smaller 2 x 3 and made from plastic. 
Again molded with round corners and smooth edges. If you are building your own 
cowl and are puzzled as to how to do the air inlets, check these out, they are 
perfect for cowl inlets. Plus they are very cheap. About a buck apiece.
That's my tip of the day

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA 
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at   
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html