Re: [MBZ] Radio

2005-12-12 Thread LT Don
No ... well, maybe ... but what I'd love to get my hands on is the original
wiring harness from a W123. Moron who owned my 240D prior to me clipped the
old one out when he put in a WalMart special radio.

On 12/11/05, Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Anyone need a nice Blaupunkt cassette am/fm player for their MB contact me
 off line for details.  It works and is just sitting around.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Regards Tom Scordato
 Bellefonte PA



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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


[MBZ] Hey Loren --

2005-12-12 Thread LT Don
Saw the daughter tonight at her place of employment. [I don't think she
recognized me.] You have her driving a W123 and not the SL?

--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread Tom Hargrave
He probably blocked out the images.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of George Gregory
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 2:10 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap


On 12/11/05 2:04 PM, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It'd look a lot better without the gangstalicious gold wheels.  Put some
 bundts on there and you might have something.

That thang was on eBay a couple years ago.

I'm surprised that Kleb does not remember it.

___
GG


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Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread Fmiser
rumor has it that Tom wrote:

 Look in the back ground on one of the photos nice 123 wagons and sedans 
 possibly for sale??/Tom
 
 
  On 12/11/05, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  http://club123d.org/listings/page10.html
 
  Wow, could that possibly be any uglier?
 
  Alex Chamberlain
  '87 300D Turbo

From the URL and email address, it seems this is being sold by the
club president.

I was handed a card for this club while at the Flying J truckstop in
Sullivan MO. (about 65 miles west of downtown St. Louis on I-44)

About a year or more ago, I met a fellow at the Sullivan airport with
a W123. He also informed me of the existance of this club. 

http://club123d.org

There seems to be a lot of words but not much information. Puzzling.

It so happens that I have more than a 1/2 dozen W123 diesels - but I
_still_ haven't figured out why I would want to belong to a Exclusive
club for W123 chassis cars!!

Silver membership is $25 per car per year.
http://club123d.org/page11.html

Here's another humorous page - for next years W123 car show!
http://club123d.org/events/page23.html

Maybe I'm an anti-social, stuckup hillbilly, but I'd rather send my
$25 to Rusty and actually _get_ something for my money!! Besides, I
don't have time to teach someone else all the stuff I've learned from
this list and it's ancestors...

Oh, and those two guys I meet who are so eager to promote their club
were _very_ eager to have me join. Smells fishy to me.

  Philip, who likes Kaleb's club



[MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

2005-12-12 Thread Harry Watkins
To all

On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and I 
followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never saw ANY 
sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never got to 
80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like I have in 
other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.

Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it wasn't.  
I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before bubbles begin to form 
and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is normal or not.

MPG = 23, is that about right?

Any ideas?

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans



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Read the W123 annoncement and you'll note the following:

All judging decisions are final and made by the Club 123D President.

On other words, no panel of judges.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 7:59 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap


rumor has it that Tom wrote:

 Look in the back ground on one of the photos nice 123 wagons and sedans
 possibly for sale??/Tom


  On 12/11/05, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  http://club123d.org/listings/page10.html
 
  Wow, could that possibly be any uglier?
 
  Alex Chamberlain
  '87 300D Turbo

From the URL and email address, it seems this is being sold by the
club president.

I was handed a card for this club while at the Flying J truckstop in
Sullivan MO. (about 65 miles west of downtown St. Louis on I-44)

About a year or more ago, I met a fellow at the Sullivan airport with
a W123. He also informed me of the existance of this club.

http://club123d.org

There seems to be a lot of words but not much information. Puzzling.

It so happens that I have more than a 1/2 dozen W123 diesels - but I
_still_ haven't figured out why I would want to belong to a Exclusive
club for W123 chassis cars!!

Silver membership is $25 per car per year.
http://club123d.org/page11.html

Here's another humorous page - for next years W123 car show!
http://club123d.org/events/page23.html

Maybe I'm an anti-social, stuckup hillbilly, but I'd rather send my
$25 to Rusty and actually _get_ something for my money!! Besides, I
don't have time to teach someone else all the stuff I've learned from
this list and it's ancestors...

Oh, and those two guys I meet who are so eager to promote their club
were _very_ eager to have me join. Smells fishy to me.

  Philip, who likes Kaleb's club

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Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

2005-12-12 Thread LT Don
I'd still replace the thermostat, in spite of your kitchen test. That can be
the only variable here that I can imagine. Pretty cheap test. If nothing
else, you will have a spare working thermostat in your trunk.

I couldn't believe the difference when I replace mine about a year ago.

Don


On 12/12/05, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 To all

 On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and I
 followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never saw
 ANY sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never
 got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like I
 have in other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.

 Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it
 wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before bubbles
 begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is
 normal or not.

 MPG = 23, is that about right?

 Any ideas?

 Harry Watkins
 Newton, MS
 86 SDL Silver
 85 300D Euro
 86 SDL Gold
 81 240D manual trans



 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

2005-12-12 Thread Harry Watkins
I will replace the T-stat, I am making up my Rusty order right now.  I'll
also test the old and new side by side on the stove, JFME :)

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 I'd still replace the thermostat, in spite of your kitchen test. That can
be
 the only variable here that I can imagine. Pretty cheap test. If nothing
 else, you will have a spare working thermostat in your trunk.

 I couldn't believe the difference when I replace mine about a year ago.

 Don


 On 12/12/05, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  To all
 
  On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and
I
  followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never
saw
  ANY sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge
never
  got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like
I
  have in other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.
 
  Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it
  wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before
bubbles
  begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is
  normal or not.
 
  MPG = 23, is that about right?
 
  Any ideas?
 
  Harry Watkins





Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

2005-12-12 Thread Hendrik Riessen
That or a dodgy temp sender/gauge. Does the radiator feel hot after going 
for a drive?


Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?


I'd still replace the thermostat, in spite of your kitchen test. That can 
be

the only variable here that I can imagine. Pretty cheap test. If nothing
else, you will have a spare working thermostat in your trunk.

I couldn't believe the difference when I replace mine about a year ago.

Don


On 12/12/05, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


To all

On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and 
I
followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never 
saw
ANY sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge 
never

got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like I
have in other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.

Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it
wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before 
bubbles

begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is
normal or not.

MPG = 23, is that about right?

Any ideas?

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans



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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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[MBZ] Well, that was exciting

2005-12-12 Thread L . Mark Finch
Decided to plug in the block heater on my car (an '82 300D) tonight, 
which I had never done before. Strung the extension cord out to the 
car, plugged the block heater in, and was treated to a small, colorful 
electric fire emanating from the vicinity of the radiator. I can hardly 
wait until morning to see just exactly where the problem was, but even 
without seeing it I'm sure I'll be replacing some wiring


--mf


_
L. Mark Finch
Indianapolis
1982 300D Turbodiesel




Re: [MBZ] Seriously?

2005-12-12 Thread B Dike
I found a nearly identical car last year in  Seattle for $600 but wouldn't take 
$2500 for it now that all the bugs  are worked out.  Manual climate control is 
wonderful. AC actually  works.  It's been an absolutely superb daily driver for 
6 months  now but may hand the keys to one of the kids who needs a car. The 
other  240D (75 W115) is still running daughter to and from UW campus but  
sustained cosmetic battle damage from late night hit and runs by frat  row kids.

Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Seriously a turd-brown '79 240D with 
manual windows and locks for $5K?
WOW!  I know the stick-shift makes a difference, but sheesh!  

 

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/116880776.html

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn  Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851
t




Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
Yahoo! Shopping
 Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?
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 sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never 
 got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot 
 like I have in
 other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.

Two independent indications of a stuck-open (or opens-early) thermostat.

 Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it 
 wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before 
 bubbles begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know 
 if this is normal or not.

Sounds like it opens too early to me.   One of the failure modes.
You need a thermometer in the pan to derive the most information
from this test.

 MPG = 23, is that about right?

Maybe a tetch low, but not being up to full operating temperature
hurts mileage.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

2005-12-12 Thread B Dike
Harry,
  
  The thermostat response is critically calibrated.  A fraction of a  
millimeter in valve position can make a big difference in coolant flow  control.
  
  Bruce

Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I will replace the T-stat, I am 
making up my Rusty order right now.  I'll
also test the old and new side by side on the stove, JFME :)

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: LT Don 


 I'd still replace the thermostat, in spite of your kitchen test. That can
be
 the only variable here that I can imagine. Pretty cheap test. If nothing
 else, you will have a spare working thermostat in your trunk.

 I couldn't believe the difference when I replace mine about a year ago.

 Don


 On 12/12/05, Harry Watkins  wrote:
 
  To all
 
  On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and
I
  followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never
saw
  ANY sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge
never
  got to 80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like
I
  have in other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.
 
  Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it
  wasn't.  I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before
bubbles
  begin to form and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is
  normal or not.
 
  MPG = 23, is that about right?
 
  Any ideas?
 
  Harry Watkins



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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
Yahoo! Shopping
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Hendrik

Dummy me, I never even thought about checking the radiator when we stopped,
I guess I was convinced it was really running cool because of being cold in
the cab.  I'll wait for my new thermostat before going back up, then I'll
check if the T-stat doesn't cure it.

Thanks.

Harry

- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 That or a dodgy temp sender/gauge. Does the radiator feel hot after going
 for a drive?

 Hendrik






Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?

2005-12-12 Thread Marshall Booth

Harry Watkins wrote:

To all

On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and I 
followed to observe.  He was driving it like it was stolen but I never saw ANY 
sign of smoke.  I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never got to 
80.  To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too hot like I have in 
other MBs.  I also never saw smoke on FOT from a start.

Today I removed the thermostat, hoping it would be stuck open, but it wasn't.  
I tested it on the stove and it begin to open well before bubbles begin to form 
and was fully open before a boil.  I don't know if this is normal or not.

MPG = 23, is that about right?


Well IF the temp gauge is accurate, the thermostat isn't working quite 
as it should. If the gauge (and sensor) aren't working correctly, then 
what you've seen is PROBABLY normal. There should be NO smoke except 
when the engine speed is above 4000 rpm and the engine is FULLY LOADED 
(like when it's accelerating with the pedal to the floor).


The thermostat should START to open at 80 deg. C and should be fully 
open at 94, well below boiling (at sea level). What you've described 
doesn't mean that the old one wasn't jamming open when installed. Did 
the NEW thermostat change the engine temperature? Thermostats are 
considered expendables - to be replaced any time there is ANY question.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread George Gregory
I've often wondered who this guy is.  He is only known as
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

He has advertised in the Gateway MBCA Club Newsletter for a while.  I
believe (at least originally) that the $25 included some kind of shop
service.

 

Perhaps Little Tommy, and area 123 Guru, has some insight into who this
might be or what its all about.

 

Here's what I found out as far as the website goes:

Domain ID D107821380-LROR Domain Name CLUB123D.ORG Created On 15-Oct-2005
18:43:58 UTC Last Updated On 15-Oct-2005 18:43:59 UTC Expiration Date
15-Oct-2006 18:43:58 UTC 

  _  

Sponsoring Registrar Register.com Inc. (R71-LROR) Status CLIENT TRANSFER
PROHIBITED TRANSFER PROHIBITED 

  _  

Registrant ID 341317698585b755 Registrant Name Vince Layton Registrant
Street1 5803 A Telegraph Registrant City St Louis Registrant State/Province
MO Registrant Postal Code 63129 Registrant Country US Registrant Phone
+1.3146073025 Registrant Email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

___

GG

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Fmiser



 

I was handed a card for this club while at the Flying J truckstop in

Sullivan MO. (about 65 miles west of downtown St. Louis on I-44)

 

About a year or more ago, I met a fellow at the Sullivan airport with

a W123. He also informed me of the existance of this club. 

 

http://club123d.org

 

There seems to be a lot of words but not much information. Puzzling.

 

It so happens that I have more than a 1/2 dozen W123 diesels - but I

_still_ haven't figured out why I would want to belong to a Exclusive

club for W123 chassis cars!!

 

Silver membership is $25 per car per year.

http://club123d.org/page11.html

 

Here's another humorous page - for next years W123 car show!

http://club123d.org/events/page23.html

 

Maybe I'm an anti-social, stuckup hillbilly, but I'd rather send my

$25 to Rusty and actually _get_ something for my money!! Besides, I

don't have time to teach someone else all the stuff I've learned from

this list and it's ancestors...

 

Oh, and those two guys I meet who are so eager to promote their club

were _very_ eager to have me join. Smells fishy to me.

 

  Philip, who likes Kaleb's club



Re: [MBZ] Well, that was exciting

2005-12-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 22:29:39 -0500 L.Mark Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Decided to plug in the block heater on my car (an '82 300D) tonight, 
 which I had never done before. Strung the extension cord out to the 
 car, plugged the block heater in, and was treated to a small, colorful 
 electric fire emanating from the vicinity of the radiator. I can hardly 
 wait until morning to see just exactly where the problem was, but even 
 without seeing it I'm sure I'll be replacing some wiring

Sounds like you need to replace the cord that plugs in the block
heater and which you plugged into your extension cord. Call Rusty at
(800) 741-5252 and he will get one speeding on its way to you.

Other than the cord, which then connects to the block heater, there should
be nothing else that connects to 120 VAC in your car.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] fuel additive

2005-12-12 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 9 Dec 2005 19:04:47 -0800 (PST) Christopher McCann
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I thought you swore by GE OTR 8932Q? Not available in the midwest (no
 distributor), so I bought a case (4 gallons treats 4,000 gallons - for
 gas stations) direct from the factory at wholesale price - they even 
 billed me for it - no money up front. Put it in a STA-BIL container and
 figured out a little chart (I think it's 1/4 oz per 2 gals - I forget,
 taped the chart to the bottle)) and use it for anti-gel. Is a good water
 DISPERSANT too along with all the other usual claims.

I Googled for it but found nothing relevant.

Where did you get it?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread tom savage

George Gregory wrote:


Perhaps Little Tommy, and area 123 Guru, has some insight into who this
might be or what its all about.


If I'm a guru, I weep for the future of the 123.  I don't have much to 
add that hasn't already been said, but that this is the first I've heard 
of this club, and I'm not entirely sure I get it, either.  At least not 
for fifty bucks, I don't.  I do find it amusing that there's a 123 club 
in St Louis, given how few of these cars are still plying the area roads.


Tom
'82 300D 325k - potential trophy winner for Most Battle Scars at the 
2006 W123 Concours d'Oxidation




Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread Fmiser
rumor has it that Tom wrote:

 Read the W123 annoncement and you'll note the following:
 
 All judging decisions are final and made by the Club 123D President.
 
 On other words, no panel of judges.

  Here's another humorous page - for next years W123 car show!
  http://club123d.org/events/page23.html

*chuckle* That was only _one_ of the lines that, um, bothered me! Seems
he gets to judge the crowd choice and the owners choice too!

   Philip, club free



Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread Fmiser
rumor has it that George wrote:

 I've often wondered who this guy is.  He is only known as
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I scanned the front and back of the business card. But to make the fine
print readable the images is about 500K.

Is that too big to send to the list?

  Philip, enquiring minds want to know...



Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread Hendrik Riessen
His first name is apparently Vince, goes under the handle vlayton on the 
w123-world.org forum.


Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap



rumor has it that George wrote:


I've often wondered who this guy is.  He is only known as
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


I scanned the front and back of the business card. But to make the fine
print readable the images is about 500K.

Is that too big to send to the list?

 Philip, enquiring minds want to know...

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Re: [MBZ] 123d club, was W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread Mitch Haley
Hendrik Riessen wrote:
 
 His first name is apparently Vince, goes under the handle vlayton on the
 w123-world.org forum.
 

Well, switchboard.com does have a listing for a Vincent J Layton II in
St Louis.



Re: [MBZ] Well, that was exciting

2005-12-12 Thread L . Mark Finch
My order has been placed. The car did start without it at 13°F, though 
a tad reluctantly.


--mf

On Dec 11, 2005, at 11:26 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:



Sounds like you need to replace the cord that plugs in the block
heater and which you plugged into your extension cord. Call Rusty at
(800) 741-5252 and he will get one speeding on its way to you.




_
L. Mark Finch
Indianapolis
1982 300D Turbodiesel




[MBZ] '75 300D no fuel 1 or 5

2005-12-12 Thread Luther Gulseth
My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start.  He broke the injector 
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel.  What might 
cause this?

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi



[MBZ] '75 300D no fuel at injectors 1 or 5

2005-12-12 Thread Luther Gulseth
Changed the subject

My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start.  He broke the injector 
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel.  What might 
cause this?

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi



Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi



Re: [MBZ] my wife did it!

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
maybe...but hard to tell as they are all 6 (years  old, not feet) and under. 
Kate (4) and Madeline (1) seem like that  that...the rest are a bit 
wall-flowerish.
  
  Chris

Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Chris said she said...
  
  She said, Well, if it's my car, I better know how to work it.
  
  
One question...are there any more at home like her 

Royce Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 265K 



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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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The basic idea is to heat the coolant by having an electrical heater inside
the block, NOT by having a fire in the engine compartment.

On 12/11/05, L. Mark Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Decided to plug in the block heater on my car (an '82 300D) tonight,
 which I had never done before. Strung the extension cord out to the
 car, plugged the block heater in, and was treated to a small, colorful
 electric fire emanating from the vicinity of the radiator. I can hardly
 wait until morning to see just exactly where the problem was, but even
 without seeing it I'm sure I'll be replacing some wiring

 --mf


 _
 L. Mark Finch
 Indianapolis
 1982 300D Turbodiesel


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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


[MBZ] 1980 230t european wagon for sale

2005-12-12 Thread D15b7
hello gents.
 
i had planned on restoring this, but it has just been sitting and gathering  
rust  it is a 1980 203t;  a european wagon, with a 4 cylinder 4  speed.  
has 131k miles on it.  body has some rust spots, definitely  fixable.  car runs 
and will drive, but is unsafe to drive due to fuel  lines leaking.  interior 
is good.  i have a title to this car.
 
see pics:
 
_http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5N
TQx.jpg_ 
(http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg)
 
 
_http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5N
TQx.jpg_ 
(http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg)
 
 
_http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5N
TQx.jpg_ 
(http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg)
 
 
_http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5N
TQx.jpg_ 
(http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyMzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg)
 
 
_http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5N
TQx.jpg_ 
(http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTE1MzIyNDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg)
 
 
make any offer!   this car will be leaving my driveway by the end  of this 
year, one way or the other   i am located near Newark,  DE.
 
thanks.
 
todd
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) 
410-441-0201 cell


Re: [MBZ] fuel additive

2005-12-12 Thread Marshall Booth

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Fri, 9 Dec 2005 19:04:47 -0800 (PST) Christopher McCann
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I thought you swore by GE OTR 8932Q? Not available in the midwest (no
distributor), so I bought a case (4 gallons treats 4,000 gallons - for
gas stations) direct from the factory at wholesale price - they even 
billed me for it - no money up front. Put it in a STA-BIL container and

figured out a little chart (I think it's 1/4 oz per 2 gals - I forget,
taped the chart to the bottle)) and use it for anti-gel. Is a good water
DISPERSANT too along with all the other usual claims.


I Googled for it but found nothing relevant.

Where did you get it?


OTR (now GE OTR) is available at many BP stations. OTR was the additive 
that BP used in its diesel fuel for many years before they purchased 
Amoco and turned the fuel blending and distribution over the Amoco. They 
may still use it (the label is still on SOME of the pumps) but as a 
stand-alone product it's now sold under the GE label (perhaps GE 
chemicals manufactures the additive package). It's pretty good, but I 
wouldn't make it a life's work to find it. Many other additives (such as 
Power Service) work fine and are MUCH easier to find.


It SEQUESTERS water (each hydroxyl groups bonds with a water molecule) 
and when passed with the fuel into the combustion chambers, burns JUST 
fine.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




[MBZ] Arctic Q

2005-12-12 Thread wilton strickland
Mitch, I am considering an inverter for the car to charge the scooter.
Charger uses only abt 2 amps, though.

Wilton




Re: [MBZ] '75 300D no fuel at injectors 1 or 5

2005-12-12 Thread Tom Hargrave
Luther,

There are several possibilities.

The 1975 uses a cable from the passenger compartment to turn the pump on 
off. The cable is attached to a lever that is pushed foreward to turn the
pump off  pulled to the rear to turn the pump on. The lever may be situated
in such a way that the pump is turned partially or completely off  the fuel
in lines 2 - 4 is just what's left in the system.

The injection pump was empty when you tried to start the car and all pumps
(there's one per cylinder) have not primed yet.

The injection pump was empty when you tried to start the car and you did not
fill the injection pump with the primer pump before trying to start the car.

The primary and / or secondary fuel filter is plugged and you can't get
enough fuel to the injection pump to start the car.


Here's a good procedure for starting a 1975 300D that has not run in a
while.

1 - Unscrew the hand primper pump and pump until you feel the resistance
change. The change verifies that all air has purged from the injection pump.
Screw the hand primer pump back into its seat.

2 - Verify that the shutoff lever on the pump moves twords the rear when you
pull the start knob to the second (run) position.

3 - Connect a good battery charger to the battery - something that will
source 30 - 50 amps.

4 - Pull the start knob to the third (glow) position and hold until the
glowplug indicator in the dash glows red.

5 - Pull the knob to the fourth (start) position  hold until the engine
starts, but no longer then 15 seconds. The starter will overheat if you run
it too long.

6- If the engins shows no sign of starting then verify that the glow plugs
did warm up. If not then you have some electrical troublseshooting to do
before you can start the car.

7- If the glow plugs do warm then repeat steps 4  5 until the car starts.
You may have to repeat this cycle 10 or more times if the injection pump was
empty.


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Luther Gulseth
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 8:14 AM
To: Luther Gulseth; Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] '75 300D no fuel at injectors 1 or 5


Changed the subject

My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start.  He broke the injector
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel.  What
might cause this?

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi



Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

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Re: [MBZ] '75 300D no fuel 1 or 5

2005-12-12 Thread Marshall Booth

Luther Gulseth wrote:

My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start.  He broke the injector 
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel.  What might 
cause this?



If the pistons on the #1  5 ports of the injection pump are stuck in 
the up position (rust, gum or varnish can cause this) then no fuel will 
be delivered. This can happen after a pump sits unused for a period of 
time with fuel in it. Can also happen when a pump is shipped or 
otherwise shake around a lot (without a lot of care to treat it with 
something to prevent any chance of fuel residue gumming.


You can open the side of the pump and see if poking at them with a piece 
of WOOD (don't use anything harder than wood) gets them to move. You 
don't want to try to adjust ANYTHING inside! Maybe a shot of PB Blaster 
or Kroil or something similar MIGHT loosen a reluctant injector. Once 
it's working, a qt of conventional 10W-30 oil in the fuel tank might 
help insure things don't stick again.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] Well, that was exciting

2005-12-12 Thread Jim Cathey

My order has been placed. The car did start without it at 13°F, though
a tad reluctantly.

Sounds like you need to replace the cord that plugs in the block
heater and which you plugged into your extension cord. Call Rusty at


Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending
the money.  It may be that you can patch up the existing cord,
somebody could well have yanked hard on it and cut into the
insulation on a sharpish edge of sheet metal.  Cutting the
cord there and splicing it back together properly could be
all that's required.  So long as the end that plugs into the
engine is OK, the rest is just Hardware Store 101.

That and an ohmmeter to verify that the heating element itself
is not open or shorted.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1980 230t european wagon for sale

2005-12-12 Thread Jim Cathey

...body has some rust spots, definitely fixable.


Wow, 'some' rust spots?  That's the east-coast perspective for you.
Probably be ours too in a few years, now that the fargging bastidges
are salting the roads around here.  I think the lowly Frankenheap
had less rust than that, and it was a royal mess, and headed downhill
from there fast.  (Now it's heading downhill a bit slower.)

Still looks like it would be a fun beater, especially if a diesel motor
accidentally found its way into it.  Sadly, too far away, too broke,
too scared of the wife!

-- Jim




[MBZ] Hamdan and the Amazing Technicolor 126

2005-12-12 Thread tom savage

http://f27.parsimony.net/forum66434/messages/21676.htm



Re: [MBZ] Hey Loren --

2005-12-12 Thread Loren Faeth
Yes, the SL is put away for the salt season.  She is not happy about 
driving the lowly 240D.


At 07:21 PM 12/11/2005, you wrote:

Saw the daughter tonight at her place of employment. [I don't think she
recognized me.] You have her driving a W123 and not the SL?

--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] Hey Loren --

2005-12-12 Thread LT Don
I feel her pain.

On 12/12/05, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yes, the SL is put away for the salt season.  She is not happy about
 driving the lowly 240D.

 At 07:21 PM 12/11/2005, you wrote:
 Saw the daughter tonight at her place of employment. [I don't think she
 recognized me.] You have her driving a W123 and not the SL?
 
 --
 1977 240D
 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
 
 http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] fuel additive

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
I posted a message with the # to call to buy it  and a PDF with all the specs 
but it is being held by the moderator as  it is too big (with PDF) to go 
through automatically. If Kaleb lets it  through, all the info is there and is 
pretty easy to come by once you  have their phone #...all in the e-mail.
  
  Kaleb! Let me e-mail go! Free my message! :-)
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Craig McCluskey wrote:
 On Fri, 9 Dec 2005 19:04:47 -0800 (PST) Christopher McCann
  wrote:
 
 I thought you swore by GE OTR 8932Q? Not available in the midwest (no
 distributor), so I bought a case (4 gallons treats 4,000 gallons - for
 gas stations) direct from the factory at wholesale price - they even 
 billed me for it - no money up front. Put it in a STA-BIL container and
 figured out a little chart (I think it's 1/4 oz per 2 gals - I forget,
 taped the chart to the bottle)) and use it for anti-gel. Is a good water
 DISPERSANT too along with all the other usual claims.
 
 I Googled for it but found nothing relevant.
 
 Where did you get it?

OTR (now GE OTR) is available at many BP stations. OTR was the additive 
that BP used in its diesel fuel for many years before they purchased 
Amoco and turned the fuel blending and distribution over the Amoco. They 
may still use it (the label is still on SOME of the pumps) but as a 
stand-alone product it's now sold under the GE label (perhaps GE 
chemicals manufactures the additive package). It's pretty good, but I 
wouldn't make it a life's work to find it. Many other additives (such as 
Power Service) work fine and are MUCH easier to find.

It SEQUESTERS water (each hydroxyl groups bonds with a water molecule) 
and when passed with the fuel into the combustion chambers, burns JUST 
fine.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2005 11:26:12 -0800
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap
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Well, you know it could be improved dramatically without much work. Pull the
goofy wing antenna off of the trunk. Pull the MB emblem off of the side
pillar. Put some normal wheels on it and the outside would not look too bad.
Kinda cool to have your own limo. Enough room in the back seat to haul
almost anything you want.

Interior is another story. Really ugly 

[MBZ] Trans fluid leak when cold starting

2005-12-12 Thread Lee Einer
OK, the Benz now runs fairly nice with new glow plugs, new injector, new 
fuel filters. A block heater from DieselGiant is on its way for the 
colder winter days. But it seems another problem has developed.


The Benz (1980 300CD, auto trans) piddles transmission fluid onto the 
driveway when it is started cold. This did not begin to happen until we 
had the cold days here, and it does not seem to persist once the car is 
warmed up.


Is this common? How to fix?


--


Lee Einer
Dos Manos Jewelry
http://www.dosmanosjewelry.com





Re: [MBZ] Buying a car in GA and registering it in OK:

2005-12-12 Thread Tom Reynolds
Well boys and girls, yesterday I went to the Georgia Tax Commission's
website and looked up the local (Fayette County) tag office location, and
sent them the following email:
I'm coming in with my daughter on Saturday (December 17) to purchase a
1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E from a resident of Peachtree City.  On Sunday my
daughter and I will be leaving to drive back to Tulsa.  What do we need
to do in order to buy the car properly and make sure that there are no
glitches on our way back to Oklahoma?  Here's what I'm thinking of and
please feel free to add or modify this; Proof of insurance on the car
we're purchasing Bill of Sale from seller (should include vehicle VIN,
seller's name, address, and phone number) Title should be transferred,
should this (or anything else) be notarized?
If so, can it be done at a bank, or should it be done at the tag office
ahead of Saturday?
Do we need to put anything in the rear window, like a sign saying
Vehicle in Transit or get any kind of a driveaway permit?

Thanks very much for your help.  I need this information pretty quickly,
as we are coming in Saturday (leaving Tulsa this Friday night) so
anything you can do to ease this process will be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs (just west of Tulsa) OK
918-246-9543

(from the site
at:http://www.dmvs.ga.gov/locate/tagoffices/Tagoffices.asp?county=112ty
pe=cx=34y=16)


Pretty well worded, don't you think?  And, for all who have been keeping up
with the thread on Buying a car in GA and registering it in OK here's the
official word from a person, (George Wingo), employed by the State of
Georgia, Department of Revenue, who works at the Fayette County Tag Office
location:
You have it figured out pretty well. In GA you can drive 30 days with a
Bill of Sale and insurance before being required to register the
vehicle. I cannot say about other states. 

You should insist on a TITLE along with the vehicle. That should be all
you need.

George Wingo


So, from the horse's mouth.  And, just called my insurance company,
incredibly she said my rates will go DOWN ~$80 per year (but I don't know
if that takes into account the two claims we've had recently).  So, they'll
mail (and fax) a proof of insurance card so I'll have it for the trip back
(told them I'd be picking up the car on the 17th).  The tag agency here in
OK just needs the title, proof of insurance, the vehicle (so they can check
the VIN) and, erm, money (for the new tags).
On the vehicle that I'm selling to Kaleb, when he picks it up on
Wednesday morning, all we'll have to do is transfer the title, he keeps the
plate from that one.  So, everything's coming together.  Oh, I had ordered
a right hand side headlight cover assembly for Star, and of course the way
things turned out, I didn't need it.  Randy (EPS) Steele told me that I
could return it, no restocking charge, so I sent that back to him today.
If anyone needs one of those, it should be back in stock by Friday.
Best regards to all
Tom Reynolds
Sand Springs, OK


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Re: [MBZ] Trans fluid leak when cold starting

2005-12-12 Thread Marshall Booth

Lee Einer wrote:
OK, the Benz now runs fairly nice with new glow plugs, new injector, new 
fuel filters. A block heater from DieselGiant is on its way for the 
colder winter days. But it seems another problem has developed.


The Benz (1980 300CD, auto trans) piddles transmission fluid onto the 
driveway when it is started cold. This did not begin to happen until we 
had the cold days here, and it does not seem to persist once the car is 
warmed up.


Is this common? How to fix?




Are you SURE the transmission isn't overfilled (can only be checked 
after driving for 15-20 minutes - will read low to VERY low if checked 
cold - if filled to even the low mark when cold, it will be WAY 
overfilled) and the vent (on top) isn't plugged? On some transmissions 
the connection between the dipstick tube and the pan leaks. This CAN be 
resealed (but I've never tried it).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




[MBZ] ArcticQ - US rendezvous point

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
In principle, it would be nice to meet up as soon  as possible. At the same 
time, we want to keep backtracking to a  minimum. Bob will be heading straight 
north...don't know if anyone west  of Bob plans on coming. 
  
  I've got two ideas:
  
  1. Sumas, WA (north of Seattle): Here is the link for the route from Sumas to 
Deadhorse:
  
http://www.randmcnally.com/rmc/directions/dirGetDirections.jsp?BV_SessionID=1556161185.1134415227BV_EngineID=addghfdejljcefecggfdffhdgif.0cmty=0
  
  2. Sweet Grass, MT: this would have Easterners bypassing the Rockies  
entirely and hwy 15 is a straight shot for Bob. According to my map,  these 
first roads through Canada are not as scenic as the above route:
  
http://www.randmcnally.com/rmc/directions/dirGetDirections.jsp?BV_SessionID=1556161185.1134415227BV_EngineID=addghfdejljcefecggfdffhdgif.0cmty=0
  
  Both of these towns are right on the border. Both work fine. Perhaps  there 
are other ideas of where we might rendezvous sooner in the US.
  
  Of course, if two cars are coming from, say, Missouri, those two would 
caravan together to the main rendezvous point, etc.
  
  If there are Canadians wanting to come, we need a Canada rendezvous point too.
  
  Thoughts, suggestions, feedback, better ideas?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Chris
  
  
  
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Yahoo! Shopping
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From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Trans fluid leak when cold starting
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Can you tell where it is leaking from on the tranny? A cold rubber seal may
leak until it warms up and softens to the point where it fits a bit better.
Have a look at the tailshaft seal for starters.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 11:16 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Trans fluid leak when cold starting


Lee Einer wrote:
 OK, the Benz now runs fairly nice with new glow plugs, new injector, new
 fuel filters. A block heater from DieselGiant is on its way for the
 colder winter days. But it seems another problem has developed.

 The Benz (1980 300CD, auto trans) piddles transmission fluid onto the
 driveway when it is started cold. This did not begin to happen until we
 had the cold days here, and it does not seem to persist once the car is
 warmed up.

 Is this common? How to fix?



Are you SURE the transmission isn't overfilled (can only be checked
after driving for 15-20 minutes - will read low to VERY low if checked
cold - if filled to even the low mark when cold, it will be WAY
overfilled) and the vent (on top) isn't plugged? On some transmissions
the connection between the dipstick tube and the pan leaks. This CAN be

Re: [MBZ] Buying a car in GA and registering it in OK:

2005-12-12 Thread Harry Watkins
Hey Tom

You know how to do it right, good job.

 20 x 20 hind sight, I was legal and didn't know it.

Have a good round trip.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

- Original Message - 
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Buying a car in GA and registering it in OK:


 Well boys and girls, yesterday I went to the Georgia Tax Commission's
 website and looked up the local (Fayette County) tag office location, and
 sent them the following email:
 I'm coming in with my daughter on Saturday (December 17) to purchase a
 1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E from a resident of Peachtree City.  On Sunday my
 daughter and I will be leaving to drive back to Tulsa.  What do we need
 to do in order to buy the car properly and make sure that there are no
 glitches on our way back to Oklahoma?  Here's what I'm thinking of and
 please feel free to add or modify this; Proof of insurance on the car
 we're purchasing Bill of Sale from seller (should include vehicle VIN,
 seller's name, address, and phone number) Title should be transferred,
 should this (or anything else) be notarized?
 If so, can it be done at a bank, or should it be done at the tag office
 ahead of Saturday?
 Do we need to put anything in the rear window, like a sign saying
 Vehicle in Transit or get any kind of a driveaway permit?
 
 Thanks very much for your help.  I need this information pretty quickly,
 as we are coming in Saturday (leaving Tulsa this Friday night) so
 anything you can do to ease this process will be greatly appreciated.
 Best regards,
 Tom Reynolds
 Sand Springs (just west of Tulsa) OK
 918-246-9543
 
 (from the site
 at:http://www.dmvs.ga.gov/locate/tagoffices/Tagoffices.asp?county=112ty
 pe=cx=34y=16)
 

 Pretty well worded, don't you think?  And, for all who have been keeping
up
 with the thread on Buying a car in GA and registering it in OK here's
the
 official word from a person, (George Wingo), employed by the State of
 Georgia, Department of Revenue, who works at the Fayette County Tag Office
 location:
 You have it figured out pretty well. In GA you can drive 30 days with a
 Bill of Sale and insurance before being required to register the
 vehicle. I cannot say about other states.
 
 You should insist on a TITLE along with the vehicle. That should be all
 you need.
 
 George Wingo
 

 So, from the horse's mouth.  And, just called my insurance company,
 incredibly she said my rates will go DOWN ~$80 per year (but I don't know
 if that takes into account the two claims we've had recently).  So,
they'll
 mail (and fax) a proof of insurance card so I'll have it for the trip back
 (told them I'd be picking up the car on the 17th).  The tag agency here in
 OK just needs the title, proof of insurance, the vehicle (so they can
check
 the VIN) and, erm, money (for the new tags).
 On the vehicle that I'm selling to Kaleb, when he picks it up on
 Wednesday morning, all we'll have to do is transfer the title, he keeps
the
 plate from that one.  So, everything's coming together.  Oh, I had ordered
 a right hand side headlight cover assembly for Star, and of course the way
 things turned out, I didn't need it.  Randy (EPS) Steele told me that I
 could return it, no restocking charge, so I sent that back to him today.
 If anyone needs one of those, it should be back in stock by Friday.
 Best regards to all
 Tom Reynolds
 Sand Springs, OK





[MBZ] Block heater pyrotechnics

2005-12-12 Thread RELNGSON
Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending the 
money.  It may be that you can patch up the existing cord,
somebody could well have yanked hard on it and cut into the insulation on a 
sharpish edge of sheet metal.  Cutting the cord there and splicing it back 
together properly could be all that's required.  So long as the end that plugs 
into the engine is OK, the rest is just Hardware Store 101.

That and an ohmmeter to verify that the heating element itself
is not open or shorted

Boy oh boy, is this bum advice. The cost of that cord is inconsequential. 
From the description it's clear that the insulation has worn through after all 
those years and patching it together to save pennies is nuts. Suppose you 
plugged it in and suddenly you have 120V AC standing on the car's chassis, just 
waiting for someone to touch it. Can you spell electrocution?

RLE


Re: [MBZ] Arctic Q

2005-12-12 Thread Mitch Haley
wilton strickland wrote:
 
 Mitch, I am considering an inverter for the car to charge the scooter.
 Charger uses only abt 2 amps, though.

If your car has a 70 or 80 amp alternator, it could probably handle that
with a 300W inverter. With the old 45 amp alt, I'd only do it on long freeway
trips. 

Or, if the scooter battery is 12v lead acid, you could skip the
inverter/charger and hook the scooter battery to the car, maybe
with a trailer connector in the trunk.



[MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-12-12 Thread Tom Hargrave


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 1:44 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices


**  **  **   *
****   *  *  ***   U.S. Department of Energy**
  **  ** * Energy Information Administration *
**** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, **
**  **  **  **   * see the message footnotes *
 *
EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. ***
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(NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should
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non-proportional font, e.g. courier)
**

  On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD
(Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes)

Diesel Prices Web URL:
http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp


  US
 NATL  EASTNEWCENTLOWER   GULF   ROCKY   WEST
 DATEAVG   COAST ENGLAND   ATL ATL   MIDWEST  COAST   MTN   COAST
CA

   PADD   PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD   PADD
 I IA  IB  IC  II III  IV V
--  -  - ---  -   -  ---  -  -  -  -


051212  2.436  2.458  2.598   2.577   2.393   2.409   2.429  2.401  2.500
2.465
051205  2.425  2.428  2.591   2.569   2.354   2.390   2.411  2.471  2.538
2.486
051128  2.479  2.467  2.619   2.604   2.394   2.442   2.456  2.591  2.617
2.559
051121  2.513  2.491  2.652   2.615   2.423   2.477   2.491  2.654  2.652
2.599
051114  2.602  2.565  2.699   2.689   2.500   2.575   2.585  2.766  2.738
2.717
051107  2.698  2.657  2.744   2.755   2.608   2.671   2.679  2.907  2.821
2.797
051031  2.876  2.784  2.834   2.848   2.753   2.907   2.846  3.079  2.951
2.936
051024  3.157  3.051  2.873   2.940   3.115   3.235   3.146  3.232  3.142
3.152
051017  3.148  3.116  2.913   2.966   3.199   3.144   3.177  3.178  3.178
3.210
051010  3.150  3.160  2.947   2.990   3.252   3.123   3.182  3.143  3.167
3.240
051003  3.144  3.198  3.012   3.040   3.283   3.083   3.185  3.079  3.174
3.262
050926  2.798  2.808  2.859   2.875   2.775   2.739   2.756  2.938  2.978
3.031
050919  2.732  2.749  2.804   2.846   2.702   2.648   2.677  2.902  2.985
3.060
050912  2.847  2.849  2.920   2.935   2.806   2.782   2.797  2.957  3.093
3.158
050905  2.898  2.900  2.977   2.993   2.853   2.843   2.833  2.976  3.149
3.250
050829  2.590  2.564  2.649   2.654   2.518   2.532   2.508  2.726  2.920
3.045
050822  2.588  2.564  2.642   2.654   2.519   2.540   2.512  2.679  2.897
3.037
050815  2.567  2.544  2.618   2.633   2.499   2.524   2.481  2.615  2.891
3.042
050808  2.407  2.386  2.492   2.484   2.334   2.336   2.323  2.486  2.801
2.943
050801  2.348  2.356  2.488   2.465   2.297   2.292   2.279  2.421  2.594
2.657
050725  2.342  2.365  2.508   2.481   2.303   2.292   2.278  2.405  2.530
2.578
050718  2.392  2.412  2.535   2.521   2.354   2.361   2.331  2.430  2.530
2.589
050711  2.408  2.427  2.533   2.524   2.377   2.384   2.355  2.408  2.526
2.589
050704  2.348  2.370  2.485   2.475   2.315   2.328   2.290  2.328  2.467
2.554
050627  2.336  2.368  2.476   2.461   2.318   2.314   2.288  2.288  2.433
2.522
050620  2.313  2.348  2.442   2.451   2.296   2.294   2.274  2.236  2.391
2.476
050613  2.276  2.308  2.399   2.399   2.261   2.248   2.247  2.210  2.364
2.457
050606  2.234  2.263  2.353   2.343   2.221   2.198   2.213  2.191  2.339
2.421
050530  2.160  2.188  2.320   2.284   2.134   2.111   2.117  2.179  2.317
2.367
050523  2.156  2.181  2.338   2.292   2.119   2.097   2.112  2.207  2.339
2.373
050516  2.189  2.204  2.380   2.315   2.141   2.129   2.141  2.267  2.397
2.432
050509  2.227  2.237  2.389   2.342   2.179   2.157   2.173  2.318  2.481
2.518
050502  2.262  2.264  2.410   2.366   2.207   2.194   2.209  2.355  2.530
2.561
050425  2.289  2.287  2.413   2.382   2.234   2.230   2.231  2.371  2.549
2.570
050418  2.259  2.260  2.418   2.373   2.197   2.194   2.180  2.379  2.554
2.582
050411  2.316  2.306  2.434   2.423   2.244   2.263   2.251  2.399  2.585
2.625
050404  2.303  2.299  2.427   2.412   2.238   2.258   2.240  2.361  2.541
2.581
050328  2.249  2.248  2.374   2.360   2.189   2.203   2.182  2.326  2.483
2.512
050321  2.244  2.245  2.355   2.358   2.186   2.196   2.180  2.313  2.471
2.482
050314  2.194  2.197  2.320   2.309   2.137   2.140   2.130  2.260  2.442
2.418
050307  2.168  2.163  2.288   2.280   2.102   2.113   2.100  2.229  2.450
2.408
050228  2.118  2.117  2.241   2.233   2.056   2.064   2.035  2.174  2.412
2.376
050221  2.020  2.027  2.198  

Re: [MBZ] Trans fluid leak when cold starting

2005-12-12 Thread Marshall Booth

Marshall Booth wrote:



Are you SURE the transmission isn't overfilled (can only be checked 
after driving for 15-20 minutes - will read low to VERY low if checked 
cold - if filled to even the low mark when cold, it will be WAY 
overfilled) and the vent (on top) isn't plugged? On some transmissions 
the connection between the dipstick tube and the pan leaks. This CAN be 
resealed (but I've never tried it).


Marshall


This site illustrates where the fluid level should be:

http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Maintenance/MY81/2710.pdf

Its 30 mm below the low mark for a 722.1 series transmission when it's 
cold (20-30 deg. C.) vs the high mark when it's at operating temp (80 
deg. C.).


Marshall
--
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  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-12-12 Thread Ron Dwelle
  2.355   2.358   2.186   2.196   2.180  2.313   
2.471

2.482
050314  2.194  2.197  2.320   2.309   2.137   2.140   2.130  2.260   
2.442

2.418
050307  2.168  2.163  2.288   2.280   2.102   2.113   2.100  2.229   
2.450

2.408
050228  2.118  2.117  2.241   2.233   2.056   2.064   2.035  2.174   
2.412

2.376
050221  2.020  2.027  2.198   2.154   1.957   1.953   1.943  2.087   
2.321

2.259
050214  1.986  2.013  2.197   2.150   1.938   1.935   1.915  2.011   
2.190

2.196
050207  1.983  2.025  2.222   2.159   1.950   1.938   1.938  1.967   
2.113

2.144
050131  1.992  2.048  2.225   2.172   1.979   1.954   1.940  1.946   
2.085

2.126
050124  1.959  2.014  2.180   2.140   1.945   1.928   1.919  1.884   
2.027

2.068
050117  1.952  2.009  2.168   2.127   1.944   1.928   1.908  1.877   
2.001

2.023
050110  1.934  1.999  2.163   2.133   1.926   1.911   1.876  1.877   
1.973

2.014
050103  1.957  2.025  2.180   2.163   1.952   1.929   1.887  1.934   
2.011

2.063
041227  1.987  2.045  2.196   2.161   1.982   1.959   1.928  1.961   
2.040

2.097
041220  1.984  2.052  2.199   2.171   1.988   1.944   1.922  1.988   
2.047

2.087
041213  1.997  2.063  2.206   2.184   1.998   1.953   1.910  2.049   
2.097

2.138

 



  Need Help?
 phone: 202-586-8800
  email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Energy Information Administration, EI 30
1000 Independence Avenue, SW
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Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-12-12 Thread Tom Hargrave
   2.373   2.197   2.194   2.180  2.379
2.554
2.582
050411  2.316  2.306  2.434   2.423   2.244   2.263   2.251  2.399
2.585
2.625
050404  2.303  2.299  2.427   2.412   2.238   2.258   2.240  2.361
2.541
2.581
050328  2.249  2.248  2.374   2.360   2.189   2.203   2.182  2.326
2.483
2.512
050321  2.244  2.245  2.355   2.358   2.186   2.196   2.180  2.313
2.471
2.482
050314  2.194  2.197  2.320   2.309   2.137   2.140   2.130  2.260
2.442
2.418
050307  2.168  2.163  2.288   2.280   2.102   2.113   2.100  2.229
2.450
2.408
050228  2.118  2.117  2.241   2.233   2.056   2.064   2.035  2.174
2.412
2.376
050221  2.020  2.027  2.198   2.154   1.957   1.953   1.943  2.087
2.321
2.259
050214  1.986  2.013  2.197   2.150   1.938   1.935   1.915  2.011
2.190
2.196
050207  1.983  2.025  2.222   2.159   1.950   1.938   1.938  1.967
2.113
2.144
050131  1.992  2.048  2.225   2.172   1.979   1.954   1.940  1.946
2.085
2.126
050124  1.959  2.014  2.180   2.140   1.945   1.928   1.919  1.884
2.027
2.068
050117  1.952  2.009  2.168   2.127   1.944   1.928   1.908  1.877
2.001
2.023
050110  1.934  1.999  2.163   2.133   1.926   1.911   1.876  1.877
1.973
2.014
050103  1.957  2.025  2.180   2.163   1.952   1.929   1.887  1.934
2.011
2.063
041227  1.987  2.045  2.196   2.161   1.982   1.959   1.928  1.961
2.040
2.097
041220  1.984  2.052  2.199   2.171   1.988   1.944   1.922  1.988
2.047
2.087
041213  1.997  2.063  2.206   2.184   1.998   1.953   1.910  2.049
2.097
2.138




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  phone: 202-586-8800
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Re: [MBZ] Block heater pyrotechnics

2005-12-12 Thread Jim Cathey
Boy oh boy, is this bum advice. The cost of that cord is 
inconsequential.


The cost is not huge, no.  (Though it is a significant percentage of the
cost of that car.)  The _point_ of the advice, however, is not
inconsequential.  Before just throwing money at a problem, it is
wise to actually diagnose the condition.  For example, had I bought
a new cord for the Chicken Wagon's very strange (and multiplex) block
heater system it would have been a total waste of money.  In fact, the
block heater element was burnt out, so a new cord would be useless even
though the old cord was quite obviously a total mess.  The new element
itself came with a new cord.

From the description it's clear that the insulation has worn through 
after all
those years and patching it together to save pennies is nuts. Suppose 
you
plugged it in and suddenly you have 120V AC standing on the car's 
chassis, just waiting for someone to touch it. Can you spell 
electrocution?


No supposition about it.  If my advice is followed, there is absolutely
no risk whatsoever, because you've totally examined the situation and
have not done anything that is unsafe.  Nor have you left unexamined
any part of the system that _could_ be unsafe.  If you do not feel
qualified to repair simple wiring, you should not try to repair
simple wiring.   That's a no-brainer.  But if you _are_, why not
save the money for something more necessary?  Advice traded here
is among competent adults who are assumed capable of evaluating
their own abilities and acting accordingly.  Not children.

Do you think that I was crazy to have replaced the three stranded
10ga wires in my home furnace that had oxidized, overheated,
and burned out.  Total cost: nil, I had a roll of suitable wire.
Should I have ordered a new furnace instead?  How do I know that
it won't explode instantly when it's turned on, the old furnace at
least has proven itself to be safe and reliable over 30 years.

Humph.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-12-12 Thread Ron Dwelle
I hear you, but I'm suspicious. If you look back through the list, 
prices here have been consistently $0.20 to $0.30 above the average. So 
who's getting this diesel fuel for $0.20 to $0.30 below the average?


Ron
On Dec 12, 2005, at 4:04 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:

These prices are from the Department of Energy and they are regional
averages.

I see the same variations that you see in North Alabama, with $0.30 or
greater differences common from one city to another.


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron Dwelle
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 2:47 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices


Man, I don't know where they get those prices. Around here (Michigan),
they're still running $0.30/gallon higher than the table shows.

Ron Dwelle

On Dec 12, 2005, at 3:39 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:



Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com




Re: [MBZ] Block heater pyrotechnics

2005-12-12 Thread R A Bennell
My experience here in the north (at least compared to most of you folks) is
that the cord usually fails in one of two places.

1. The end with the plug where you plug it into the extension cord because
it is handled the most and hangs out of the car. Replacing the plug may be
an option but often the wire is corroded back a way and you don't have a lot
of cord to permit you to shorten it. I did use a chunk of cord and reconnect
under the hood on a 97 Mercury Sable that we had as a stop gap measure until
we could get a replacement cord.

2. The other end where it plugs into the socket on the block heater at the
engine. I don't know whether it is the heat or not but I suspect that to be
the cause. Often the rubber plug will deteriorate to the point where that
end shorts out. It ususally (at least in my experience) does not harm the
block heater and a new cord will correct the problem.

Generally, one is better off to get a cord at the dealer as it is usually
longer than those offered in the afermarket. A long cord is good as it
allows one to tie it back out of the way and snake it through to the grill
and out by the bumper somewhere so that the hood need not be opened to use
it.

Remember to tuck it back in under the hood before going through the car
wash.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 12:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Block heater pyrotechnics


Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending the
money.  It may be that you can patch up the existing cord,
somebody could well have yanked hard on it and cut into the insulation on a
sharpish edge of sheet metal.  Cutting the cord there and splicing it back
together properly could be all that's required.  So long as the end that
plugs
into the engine is OK, the rest is just Hardware Store 101.

That and an ohmmeter to verify that the heating element itself
is not open or shorted

Boy oh boy, is this bum advice. The cost of that cord is inconsequential.
From the description it's clear that the insulation has worn through after
all
those years and patching it together to save pennies is nuts. Suppose you
plugged it in and suddenly you have 120V AC standing on the car's chassis,
just
waiting for someone to touch it. Can you spell electrocution?

RLE
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Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-12-12 Thread Tom Hargrave
Ron,

Who's average? Your local average? These numbers are published by the
Government and they cover huge regions.

Up until the huge increase, I could always get diesel $0.20 cheaper along
the I-20 corridor than in Huntsville . Now diesel is running $0.30 cheaper
in Huntsville than along the I-20 corridor.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron Dwelle
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 3:18 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices


I hear you, but I'm suspicious. If you look back through the list,
prices here have been consistently $0.20 to $0.30 above the average. So
who's getting this diesel fuel for $0.20 to $0.30 below the average?

Ron
On Dec 12, 2005, at 4:04 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:

These prices are from the Department of Energy and they are regional
averages.

I see the same variations that you see in North Alabama, with $0.30 or
greater differences common from one city to another.


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron Dwelle
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 2:47 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices


Man, I don't know where they get those prices. Around here (Michigan),
they're still running $0.30/gallon higher than the table shows.

Ron Dwelle

On Dec 12, 2005, at 3:39 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:



Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com


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Re: [MBZ] Block heater pyrotechnics

2005-12-12 Thread Kris Gilmore

At 03:05 PM 12/12/2005, Jim C and then RLE wrote:

Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending the
money.  It may be that you can patch up the existing cord,
somebody could well have yanked hard on it and cut into the insulation on a
sharpish edge of sheet metal.  Cutting the cord there and splicing it back
together properly could be all that's required.  So long as the end 
that plugs

into the engine is OK, the rest is just Hardware Store 101.

That and an ohmmeter to verify that the heating element itself
is not open or shorted

Boy oh boy, is this bum advice. The cost of that cord is inconsequential.
From the description it's clear that the insulation has worn 
through after all

those years and patching it together to save pennies is nuts. Suppose you
plugged it in and suddenly you have 120V AC standing on the car's 
chassis, just

waiting for someone to touch it. Can you spell electrocution?


 Electrocution, BS.  Fixing  a break in a 120V AC cord is about 
as far from rocket science as it gets.   And it is easy to test.


 Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV

 Real robots roam. 






Re: [MBZ] Weather

2005-12-12 Thread andrew strasfogel
LOL!

On 12/9/05, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yes, we have a Bush for president who causes global cooling, or
 state-wide cooling, or is it warming in Canada relative to Arkansas and
 other places.

 I'm so confused I can't remember exactly which it is, but I do know it
 is his fault because he didn't sign that treaty, and that got the French
 people mad at us and they are sending that Evian flu thing around.

 --R

 Jeff Zedic wrote:

 I stil can't believe that you guys in Arkansas are colder than us!
 
 Changing weather patterns or what?
 
 Jeff Zedic
 Toronto
 87 300TD
 83 300D
 
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[MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r

2005-12-12 Thread Constantine N. Polites


Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch?  If so,
do any of the MB procedures apply  (CD).?  If not
any good pitfalls? 


Thanks,
Constantine



Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

2005-12-12 Thread andrew strasfogel
I have trouble visualizing the banjo part...

On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
 it with a hose of some type sticking out at a right angle.  Hard to
 miss.

 Size depends on application -- the one for the turbo will be a 15 or
 17, I'd guess.  The ones on the IP are 17s if I remember correctly, and
 you must be careful, the inlet and outlet bolts are NOT the same -- the
 outlet has a very small hole in it and acts to pressurize the IP.  If
 you swap them, the engine won't run.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r

2005-12-12 Thread Aaron Lam
Some ND compressors need a pin wrench to counterhold the clutch so you
can remove the center nut, but others have no provision for the pin
wrench. In the latter case you can use channel-lock pliers. You'll
need the MB pulling tool that screws into the center of the clutch,
but some folks have had success prying it out slowly. I wouldn't try
that though.

-Aaron
1987 300D
1987 300TD

On 12/12/05, Constantine N. Polites [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch?  If so,
 do any of the MB procedures apply  (CD).?  If not
 any good pitfalls?

 Thanks,
 Constantine

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Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
http://www.prelube.com/powrlube500_drainhose.html
  
  Chris

andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I have trouble visualizing the 
banjo part...

On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick 
 wrote:

 A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
 it with a hose of some type sticking out at a right angle.  Hard to
 miss.

 Size depends on application -- the one for the turbo will be a 15 or
 17, I'd guess.  The ones on the IP are 17s if I remember correctly, and
 you must be careful, the inlet and outlet bolts are NOT the same -- the
 outlet has a very small hole in it and acts to pressurize the IP.  If
 you swap them, the engine won't run.

 Peter


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Content preview: R A Bennell wrote:  I'd gamble on it at the price it
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likely to go for. I sort of like it.  The comment that it needs
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap
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R A Bennell wrote:
 I'd gamble on it at the price it is likely to go for. I sort of like it.
   

The comment that it needs suspension work worries me a little, though.  
Think about what all that extra weight might have done to the suspension.



Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap

2005-12-12 Thread R A Bennell
Well, you know, I never said it would be cheap to fix or to own. I just said
one could likely acquire it cheaply and it is sort of unique.

One should look classy riding around in a Benz. One should look even
classier in a Benz Limo. Of course, one would need a driver so that one
could sit in the back and look down one's nose at poor folks passing by in
their Toyotas.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 2:33 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap


R A Bennell wrote:
 I'd gamble on it at the price it is likely to go for. I sort of like it.


The comment that it needs suspension work worries me a little, though.
Think about what all that extra weight might have done to the suspension.

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Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread andrew strasfogel
Thanks for the photo.  I am familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
bleepin' banjo.  Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.

On 12/12/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://www.prelube.com/powrlube500_drainhose.html

 Chris

 andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I have trouble
 visualizing the banjo part...

 On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick
 wrote:
 
  A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
  it with a hose of some type sticking out at a right angle.  Hard to
  miss.
 
  Size depends on application -- the one for the turbo will be a 15 or
  17, I'd guess.  The ones on the IP are 17s if I remember correctly, and
  you must be careful, the inlet and outlet bolts are NOT the same -- the
  outlet has a very small hole in it and acts to pressurize the IP.  If
  you swap them, the engine won't run.
 
  Peter
 
 
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 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
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Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread Mitch Haley
andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 Thanks for the photo.  I am familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
 bleepin' banjo.  Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.

The thing the bolt goes in is called a banjo fitting. The part that goes
around the bolt is the body of the banjo, the part that goes in the hose
is the neck of the banjo. The bolt just looks like a hollow bolt with
crossdrilled holes in it.



[MBZ] Arctic Q

2005-12-12 Thread wilton strickland
Scooter bat is 24v DC (2 12v lead/acid in series); charger input is 120v AC,
1.2 amp; output is 29.5v DC, 1.5 amp.
'Considering 300 watt inverter.

Wilton




Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
I don't either, to be honest. I thought I knew  what a banjo bolt was, until 
the emphasis on the banjo part...so I  googled an image to be sure. It is 
what I thought, but I too fail to  get the banjo part...maybe need to google 
an image of a banjo and  look at it for a long time till I see the light... :-)
  
  Chris

andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Thanks for the photo.  I am 
familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
bleepin' banjo.  Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.

On 12/12/05, Christopher McCann  wrote:

 http://www.prelube.com/powrlube500_drainhose.html

 Chris

 andrew strasfogel  wrote:  I have trouble
 visualizing the banjo part...

 On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick
 wrote:
 
  A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
  it with a hose of some type sticking out at a right angle.  Hard to
  miss.
 
  Size depends on application -- the one for the turbo will be a 15 or
  17, I'd guess.  The ones on the IP are 17s if I remember correctly, and
  you must be careful, the inlet and outlet bolts are NOT the same -- the
  outlet has a very small hole in it and acts to pressurize the IP.  If
  you swap them, the engine won't run.
 
  Peter
 
 
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 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

 -
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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 Scooter bat is 24v DC (2 12v lead/acid in series); charger input is 
 120v 

Re: [MBZ] Arctic Q

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
I've seen, I think, 120V converters that you plug  into the lighter...is that 
possible? I know NOTHING about electricity  except + = positive and - = 
negative.
  
  Chris

wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Scooter bat is 24v DC (2 12v 
lead/acid in series); charger input is 120v AC,
1.2 amp; output is 29.5v DC, 1.5 amp.
'Considering 300 watt inverter.

Wilton


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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My opinion is that averages don't mean JACK..  If your stock is  
going up or down, it doesn't matter what the averages say.  Same goes  
for diesel... What it costs in your neighborhood/local station is all  
that counts.

Guess I've turned into an OF...  aka curmudgeon!

Take care and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all..

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

On Dec 12, 2005, at 2:25 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:

 Ron,

 Who's average? Your local average? These numbers are published by the
 Government and they cover huge regions.
  



Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread Hans Neureiter
A lug nut does not look like a lug, but it goes on a lug.
Apply this to banjo.


On 12/12/05, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks for the photo.  I am familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
 bleepin' banjo.  Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.

 On 12/12/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  http://www.prelube.com/powrlube500_drainhose.html
 
  Chris
 
  andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  I have trouble
  visualizing the banjo part...
 
  On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick
  wrote:
  
   A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
   it with a hose of some type sticking out at a right angle.  Hard to
   miss.
  
   Size depends on application -- the one for the turbo will be a 15 or
   17, I'd guess.  The ones on the IP are 17s if I remember correctly,
 and
   you must be careful, the inlet and outlet bolts are NOT the same --
 the
   outlet has a very small hole in it and acts to pressurize the IP.  If
   you swap them, the engine won't run.
  
   Peter
  
  
   ___
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  Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
  -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
  -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
  -1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf
  -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
  -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
  -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
 
  -
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D


Re: [MBZ] '75 300D no fuel 1 or 5

2005-12-12 Thread Peter Frederick
The 617 engine never came with a manual shut off pump -- they are all 
vacuum shutoffs.  Pull the vac line on the canister at the rear of the 
pump to verify it isn't holding vac, as it won't start that way.  
Unlikely, but hey.


You can also remove the top cover on the IP governor and verify that 
the servo isn't stuck in the off position -- four screws and it just 
lifts off.  Don't poke about in there, you can upset the calibration, 
not pretty.  The servo hook should pull the internal linkage back 
quite a bit with vac applied, and return under spring pressure when the 
vac is released.  You can also verifty that the rack moves with the 
throttle linkage -- if not, you will need to run some detergent 
through the pump (next paragraph) and work the linkage until the rack 
frees up.  It requires full fuel delivery, usually, to start a cold 
engine, so if the rack is stuck at idle, it will never fire up.


If the car has been sitting any length of time, replace the fuel 
filters and fill the filter housing with RedLine or Diesel Purge or 
something similar, then pull the lines and pressure valve holders off 
of #1 and #5 positions on the pump.  DO NOT move the ears or remove 
the nuts that hold them down, else the pump must be adjusted on a test 
bench.  You will have to be careful to find and keep the small spring 
and pressure valve inside each holder.  Don't drop them, dirt here is 
very bad news


Pump the hand pump (should be up by the fuel filter) and verify that 
fuel flows out of the holes as you rotate the engine around.  LIkely 
they are air locked from fuel leakdown, and once you get pressurized 
fuel in them, all will be well.


Watch for a leaking fuel filter to IP line (it can be replaced with 
normal fuel line if cracked).  No pressure inside the pump will result 
in now fuel injected.


Once you get fuel flow, re-install the pressure valves and springs (the 
stem goes up with the spring on top) and torque them down -- 25 
ft/lbs twice, then 30 ft/lbs) and it should start.


Make sure the glow plugs are operating (the resistor wire should get 
red hot) -- no glow plugs and it will NOT start, ever.  It should at 
least kick hard on three cylinders, although I don't think it will 
start on only three.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] '75 300D no fuel 1 or 5

2005-12-12 Thread Peter Frederick
Oh, also I forgot the most obvious and probably the actual problem 
(silly me!).  Replace the fuel lines between the steel pipe and the 
suction side of the lift pump (on the side of the IP).  These die of 
old age, and leak under the fabric cover.  You don't have the screw it 
down to seal type hand pump, so that won't be a problem, but either 
being bad allows air to get sucked in instead of fuel sucked up from 
the tank, and air in the IP prevents starting.


I would also blow some compressed air VERY GENTLY down the line to make 
sure the tank screen isn't plugged.  Expect a clogged screen, bad 
hoses, and algae clogging filters for awhile, this is very typical of a 
diesel that age.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r

2005-12-12 Thread Peter Frederick
You will need a pair of snap ring plier to remove a couple snap rings 
in order to remove the clutch bearing.  The clutch plate will pop right 
off, no tool required (you do need the tools to get the seal out).  
Pulley presses onto the clutch, but I'm assuming you will get a new one.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread Peter Frederick

You do know what a banjo is don't you?

Round flat thing with a tight drumhead and a neck with strings?

The banjo fitting is a round device with a large hole in the center and 
a fitting on the side -- looks like a banjo (or a lolipop with a hole 
in it).


The hose for whatever goes on the side, the bolt is hollow with a hole 
drilled at a right angle into the hollow.


Take two aluminum or copper washers to seal.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] ArcticQ - US rendezvous point

2005-12-12 Thread Bob Rentfro

Christopher worried:

At the same time, we want to keep backtracking to a  minimum. Bob will be 
heading straight north...don't know if anyone west  of Bob plans on coming. 



I really don't mind driving over to Okie-Q first as a starting point.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 144K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 12:30 PM
Subject: [MBZ] ArcticQ - US rendezvous point


In principle, it would be nice to meet up as soon  as possible.

 I've got two ideas:

 1. Sumas, WA (north of Seattle): Here is the link for the route from Sumas 
to Deadhorse:

 
http://www.randmcnally.com/rmc/directions/dirGetDirections.jsp?BV_SessionID=1556161185.1134415227BV_EngineID=addghfdejljcefecggfdffhdgif.0cmty=0

 2. Sweet Grass, MT: this would have Easterners bypassing the Rockies 
entirely and hwy 15 is a straight shot for Bob. According to my map,  these 
first roads through Canada are not as scenic as the above route:

 
http://www.randmcnally.com/rmc/directions/dirGetDirections.jsp?BV_SessionID=1556161185.1134415227BV_EngineID=addghfdejljcefecggfdffhdgif.0cmty=0

 Both of these towns are right on the border. Both work fine. Perhaps 
there are other ideas of where we might rendezvous sooner in the US.


 Of course, if two cars are coming from, say, Missouri, those two would 
caravan together to the main rendezvous point, etc.


 If there are Canadians wanting to come, we need a Canada rendezvous point 
too.


 Thoughts, suggestions, feedback, better ideas?

 Thanks,

 Chris






Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping
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Re: [MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2005-12-12 Thread Bob Rentfro

Tom wondered:

Who's average? Your local average? These numbers are published by the
Government and they cover huge regions.

Diesel is running from $2.559 to $2.319. It was $2.449 or so in CAL this 
weekend.

Bio is stuck at $2.869 here.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 144K
Litchfield Park, AZ




Re: [MBZ] Arctic Q

2005-12-12 Thread Mitch Haley
Christopher McCann wrote:
 
 I've seen, I think, 120V converters that you plug  into the lighter...is that 
 possible? 

For 1.2A at 120VAc it's possible, you'd probably need 14g wiring and a 20A fuse 
for
the lighter socket. (or wire up a heavy duty power outlet w 20A fuse)



Re: [MBZ] picturing a banjo bolt

2005-12-12 Thread Alex Chamberlain
I much prefer the name lollipop bolt.  I think I'll use that from
now on and try to get it established.  ;)

On 12/12/05, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You do know what a banjo is don't you?

 Round flat thing with a tight drumhead and a neck with strings?

 The banjo fitting is a round device with a large hole in the center and
 a fitting on the side -- looks like a banjo (or a lolipop with a hole
 in it).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo



[MBZ] Fwd: Product Information on OTR 8932Q

2005-12-12 Thread Christopher McCann
Yeah, it's VERY hard to find online...had to make  a few phone calls. Order=
 from this lady at GE. Right now, I think you  can only buy 1 case at a tim=
e (treats 4,000 gallons). Very cheap,  though. I would be MORE than happy t=
o sell one or two of my gallons (at  cost) as long as you pay shipping. It =
will take FOREVER to go through 4  gallons.
  =

  Info sheet attached.
  =

  Chrisotpher

Foster, Kelley A (GE Infrastructure) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Subje=
ct: Product Information on OTR 8932Q
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 17:25:23 -0500
From: Foster, Kelley A \(GE Infrastructure\) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

It was a pleasure to talk with you concerning our performan=
ce   additives.  The below information outlines the product benefits.  If  =
 you should have further questions, please contact me @ 877-227-3743 or ema=
il [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   =


eGE   Infrastructure =

  Kelley   Foster   =

Sales   Support Specialist =

  *   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(  Direct - (281) 681-5294  (Dial   Comm - *353-5294   =
  4   Fax - (281) 363-7775   =

   =

   =





Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotk=E4ppchen
-1985 300SD, 210K, Wulf =

-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Pr=FCfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
=

-
Yahoo! Shopping
 Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping =

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212/1b4261f8/OTR8932Q.obj


Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl a/c clutch r/r

2005-12-12 Thread Marshall Booth
Constantine N. Polites wrote:
 Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch?  If so,
 do any of the MB procedures apply  (CD).?  If not
 any good pitfalls? =


I've attached the pages from the 201 manual that describe removal of the =

clutch from a Nippondenso compressor. It's essentially the same for ALL =

of the cars I've seen them on (124/201/126).

Marshall
-- =

  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 =

turbo 237kmi
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