Re: [MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

2006-04-08 Thread Marshall Booth

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My new  hood/heat pad arrived today and I spent most of 2 hours trying to 
get the remains of the old pad off so I can glue the new one into place.


While much of the foam is gone now, there's still some adhesive left, as 
well as some very short, hard foam.


Is there something that'll take the remainder off?  I've tried an Adhesive 
Remover we sell (worked pretty well but there;s residue), Acetone (did very 
little) and blasted with high prrssure water to get rid of the bits and 
pieces (worked) - I used a large weave scotch brite like pad with a handle 
attached -


But there;s still some hard stuff (that I may leave) - and some foam which I 
believe needs to come off.


The 3M Adhesive remover is about as good as it gets, but after the 
adhesive cures for 15-20 years, there is not much (short of atomic 
weapons) that is really effective. It is not necessary that the surface 
be absolutely flat - mine sure wasn't - just no BIG bumps. I used a 
wooden scraper.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

Drum roll please.

For sale, 1979 240D.  302kmi, auxiliary fuel tank.  Perfect
for biodiesel operation, has 1000 mile range.

Not perfect, but looks pretty good.  Rust-free.  Reluctant
cold-starter, but has started every time for me so far.
Very clean inside, you can date with this car and not be
ashamed.

$2500  See http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html for
pictures and more information.

OK, I don't expect you guys to buy it, I'm planning to list it
on nearby Craigs lists to start, especially in Seattle.  But I'd
appreciate feedback on the web site, etc.

I'm planning to redo the pictures if I can get a nice overcast
day while it's still clean.  The hazy sun resulted in pictures that
are much more washed-out looking than the car deserves.  Also need
to get an engine compartment shot, I seem to have forgotten that one.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

2006-04-08 Thread Peter Frederick
I had good luck with the 3M adhesive remover (contains solvents).  Same 
manufacturer as the correct adhesive.  Spray it on and let it soak a 
couple minutes, it will even soften up thick coats of Liquid Nails 
applied with a caulking gun.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] draining torque converter

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey
In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft 
and


27mm, IIRC.  22mm is the PS pump, usually a fine alternative for
turning the engine over.

turn it by hand.  Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the 
minimum.  Is

there an easier way to turn the engine?


See above!  But working the wrench onto the crank nut is best
because you can work it while lying under the car looking for
the TC drain plug.

Also, since I can't start the car right now, which way does the engine 
turn?


Clockwise, when standing in front of it.  (Hint: look at fan blades.
They work _with_ the prevailing wind through the engine compartment.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-08 Thread Hendrik Riessen

I suppose an oven will get to a 105.

Hendrik

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions



You're going to have a hard time getting that pot of boiling water
above 100 -- -- it takes a pressurized environment to get it above 100
- like in an engine cooling system.


I will say 105, without checking a manual. Throw it in a pot of
water with a thermometer as if it were a thermostat hook your trusty
multimeter to it and see where it shows 0 resistance while it heats up.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am


OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

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Re: [MBZ] draining torque converter

2006-04-08 Thread l02turner

Hello Sunil,
I use a large flat blade screw driver and turn the engine by wedgeing the 
screwdriver in the hole next to the one the TC drain plug will appear and 
work the engine around - making sure to turn the engine in its normal 
direction od travel.  Clockwise when viewed standing in front of the car and 
looking toward the radiator IIRC.


Good luck - BTW, do me a favor - when you remove the TC plug, look so see if 
it has a alum washer on the plug please.


There's some smaller openings you;ll see near a large opening on the bottom 
of the torque converter housing - the plug will appear
in the larger opening.  Use the smaller openings to wedge the screwdriver 
in - and pry the TC around.


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] draining torque converter


I'm draining the ATF out of my 300D and changing the ATF filter.  How do 
you

turn the engine to line up the drain bolt on the TC?

In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft and
turn it by hand.  Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the minimum. 
Is

there an easier way to turn the engine?

Also, since I can't start the car right now, which way does the engine 
turn?


--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread OK Don
Exactly.
What the MAC doesn't have to deal with is a HUGE variety of hardware
and drivers. That's what makes a large part of the difference.

Using VPC, you've just eliminated the hardware issues. The VPC
presents the same virtual hardware to the OS, regardless of what's
underneath. That SHOULD make the OS about as stable as it can be,
given the stability of the host OS/hardware. Of course, I do blow up
the OS in VPCs, because that's what I'm testing -- what will happen
when I do this stupid thing or that  -- Recovery is just shut it down
with out saving the changes, back up in a virgin state in minutes.
Great stuff!

I had a graphics shop that was running on PCs, but they were
complaining about blowing up the PCs, not stable, etc. When they got
to printing color directly to the press, we OK'd the MACs - far better
color management.  Seems that those creative graphic artists can blow
up MACs just as fast as they did PCs - but no they have to support
themselves - we won't touch them.

On 4/7/06, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Say what? I can install Windows XP on ANYTHING in about 2 hours. OS 10.4 
 takes about the same...

   Windows 98 was garbage, Windows 95 was also garbage. 2000 and XP are quite 
 stable and usable. The problem is the garbage that people load onto them. 
 Like the type R stickers that make cars go faster...

   -Curt

   Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 21:53:41 -0700
 From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 It has more to do with hours wasted trying to keep the POS running.  If
 you have done installs of windows, you can see why a mac user will be
 very perplexed by a person willing to subject themselves to that
 torture.  Sort of the head scratch I have with Mistress Jill.  WTF gets
 into a boy to want to be hung up with tuna hooks on 100# test line?

 An OS install for mac takes a few moments and runs.  A winblows install
 can take all weekend to get it nailed down right.



 -
 Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
 starting at 1¢/min.
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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-08 Thread OK Don
I lost a few on my '70 220D hitting pot holes on country roads - but
traced the failure back to very rusty clips on the back of the covers.
The car spent it's first 10 years/100,000 miles in MN, driven year
round. Not surprising that those clips failed. I found out that three
good clips could keep the covers on 

 Here's a question I've had: Has anyone seen or heard of the
 wheelcovers popping off a Mercedes under hard cornering?
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

After I got done with the computer junk I left the dungeon,
only to find it had clouded over already.  So I went back
outside and took some replacement pictures.  They're on
there now, along with a few I'd missed (like the engine!)

http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html

Please comment!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Jeff Zedic

You better recheck the engine pics...I'm getting a 404.


Jeff Zedic
Toronto



Re: [MBZ] diesel fuel info from chevron

2006-04-08 Thread David Brodbeck

redghost wrote:
What of all the shuttered refineries.  They are just dormant superfund 
sites.  I am sure that somebody will get the bright idea to fire them 
back up.
  


Towards the end of when I lived in Alma, MI, Lamar-Diamond-Shamrock 
bought out the former Total oil refinery and dismantled it.  I don't 
know the whole story, but the rumor I heard was that it was so old and 
so lacking in pollution controls that it was worth more as scrap and for 
pollution reduction credits than as an operating refinery.  I remember 
driving past the huge flare towers, when I was a kid, and smelling the 
strong sulfur odor.  Every time there was a fire there the property 
values on that end of town dropped a bit more.


The big question people were mulling over when I left was what to do 
with the creek that runs through the property.  Apparently there was so 
much petroleum waste in it that the creek bottom looked like asphalt.





Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300tdtimingchainissues)

2006-04-08 Thread hue wong
I ordered up the parts from rusty this morning 
Once I heard he sponcered the list and that the part
will be brand new from rusty...  it was a no brainer..

Should have it by the first of next week and will swap
that timing chain out and suspect the car will run a
little better

I've read through the process a few times now in my
mcparts manual and it seems like a real straight
forward procedure



--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'm guessing that Hue doesn't know about Big
 Baboon's history.
 Bottom line is - buyer beware. Many horror stories.
 This list boycots
 him for many reasons, not the least of which was his
 attempt to hijack
 Rusty's business name.
 
 On 4/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  yes
 
  Rick Knoble wrote:
 
  Here is one on ebay for 59.00...  seems to be
 the
  cheapest around...
  
  
 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1
  
  
   Isn't that Big Baboon?
  
   Rick Knoble
   '85 300 CD
   '87 190 DT
 
 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D 243K, Rattled
 '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
 '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
 '78 450SLC 67K, brown car
 '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
 
 ___
 http://www.striplin.net
 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

OK, I fixed the links in the thing (a bit of case sensitivity
that I messed up).  I've also rearranged things per my wife's
suggestions.  (She was a computer layout person, so her input
is usually good.)

http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 190D, fan clutch and other 190 questions

2006-04-08 Thread John Berryman


On Apr 7, 2006, at 6:37 PM, OK Don wrote:


You're going to have a hard time getting that pot of boiling water
above 100 -- -- it takes a pressurized environment to get it above 100
- like in an engine cooling system.



Hmmm. Heat it directcly with a propane torch or something.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] For Sale: 1985 380SE

2006-04-08 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

came thru fine chuck

Chuck Landenberger wrote:


Hi all,

I'm posting this for a friend.. Bud, who owns MB Motors in  
Phoenix AZ


1985 380SE  -  Blue on Blue   -  190kmiles
Bad Transmission (Car was driven into shop)
Heads Removed - Engine was running
Maintenance Records for last 5-6 years at MB Motors
Excellent Body
Interior in very good condition
Optima Orange Battery
Recent AC Compressor

Photos available ... email me offline at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Car is now in his shop.  $750.00 OBO..  Shipping is  
responsibility of buyer.


Call Bud - 602-326-6210

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ

___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-08 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
They were ALL lubed by motor oil.  The 616 and back(115 and older) were 
not connected to the engine oil circuit, instead had their own reservoir 
which had to be changed and topped off from time to time.


Loren Faeth wrote:

Engine oil lubricating the IP is not true for OM 621 and at least some 615 
engines.  Does anyone know where the cutoff was between the fuel lubricated 
pumps and crankcase oil lubricated pumps?  I think it was mid 70s somewhere.


My 66 engines are fuel lubricated.  My 81 240D is engine lubed.

Loren

At 12:10 PM 4/7/2006, you wrote:


Other than the delivery valve o-rings, I'm not aware of any rubber
seals that come into direct contact with the fuel in an inline MB
injection pump.  They use engine oil for lubricating the pump
internals.

On 4/7/06, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


and does it come into contact with fuel or just motor oil?


Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler (212k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] is there rubber in the injection pump? seals? O-rings?

2006-04-08 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

your 115 300D is lubed from the engine, no worries.

R A Bennell wrote:


Wasn't there a thread on this not long ago. My recollection then, and please 
correct me if I am wrong, is that only
engines before a certain date needed oil actually added to the injection pump. 
I thought I had determined that my
1976 115 300D was new enough to lube the injection pump via the engine oil and 
did not need to look for  a plug to
pour oil into the pump itself. If that is not true, please correct me as I will 
do it and hope my predecessors had
enough sense to do so as well.

Randy B



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] M1 ATF Change - Was - DieselPurge

2006-04-08 Thread John Berryman


On Apr 7, 2006, at 6:37 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


I'll be eager to see how things work for you. I had found that shift
quality started to deteriorate at 20-25kmi using conventional ATF  
and at

about 30-35kmi using Mobil 1.

Marshall



	I'll let you know. The stuff isn't worth it to me if it doesn't  
reduce wear/particles and allow extended drain intervals. I only wish  
I had saved a sample of whatever was in it prior to switching to  
Amsoil syn ATF. Tranny has worked perfectly since I got it and still  
does, time and miles will tell.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



[MBZ] Testing the Auxilliary Fans

2006-04-08 Thread l02turner

Howdy -
How do I test them - without waiting for a 95F+ day with the AC on and the 
temp rising?

TIA --
91 300D Turbo 2.5

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 






[MBZ] 1982 300 CDT Runs on and on and on ...

2006-04-08 Thread Dan Schriber
I have just purchased a 1982 300 CDT. When I shut the car off at the key it
runs on and on. Lately it will shut off when I open the driver's door
(coincidence or design?) or maybe it tires of me pushing the stop button
under the hood. Can anyone direct me to the cause and the fix of this
annoyance. Other then that I love the car.

Thanks in advance.

Dan




Re: [MBZ] 1982 300 CDT Runs on and on and on ...

2006-04-08 Thread Sunil Hari
You have a vacuum leak somewhere in the door locks.  Probably, the locks are
down when you pull the key out, and when you open the door the locks going
up closes the leak and allows the engine to shut down.  They're pretty easy
to diagnose, but more of a pain to actually repair.

On 4/7/06, Dan Schriber [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I have just purchased a 1982 300 CDT. When I shut the car off at the key
 it
 runs on and on. Lately it will shut off when I open the driver's door
 (coincidence or design?) or maybe it tires of me pushing the stop button
 under the hood. Can anyone direct me to the cause and the fix of this
 annoyance. Other then that I love the car.

 Thanks in advance.

 Dan


 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Hood Shield Adhesive - need to remove residue of old one - for 91 300D Turbo 2.5

2006-04-08 Thread Peter Frederick
I scraped as much of the slop off as I could, it was definitely NOT 
factory adhesive.  I didn't get it all, on the assumption that if it 
was stuck that well it wasn't going to fall off any time soon.


The new pad is still up there two years later.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread Peter Frederick
Living in both the Mac and PC world for some 20 years now, I still find 
the Mac much easier to keep functioning.  There are some limitations on 
hardware, but not on the upper end (any networkable printer is very 
likely to be Mac compatible, at least with a generic Postscript 
driver).  PCs, on the other hand, require HUGE effort to get compatible 
drivers, SCSI was always a big pain, and so forth.  Macs are somewhat 
more tempermental in some ways (i.e. no slave drive on revision 1 BW 
G3s) and memory isn't always standard, but I've always had fewer 
headaches with them.  A couple of driver packages has always taken care 
of the hardware (mostly hard drive) problems.  I did find one of the 
few drives completely unusable with my Wallstreet G3 laptop quite by 
chance, but all in all, I've spent much less time making my Macs work 
than my PCs/


Certainly, the OS is much less troublesome.  Up to OS X, installation 
and re-installation was a breeze.  OS X takes somewhat longer (as a 
friend of mine says, Linux/Unix is patch heaven), but is still less 
of a hassle than XP or any earlier version.  Managing extensions is 
very easy on the mac, unlike a PC pre-XP/2000, and memory management is 
a whole different ball of wax, although that issue is thankfully gone 
-- anyone else remember when 512k of memory was a lot?


As far as users screwing things up, what can they possibly be doing 
other than actual damage?  Using any standard software is pretty much 
transparent, and Macs no more sensitive to damage from inappropriate 
hot swapping things than PCs.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Epilog: Rough Starting 350SDL

2006-04-08 Thread Zeitgeist
fyi:  I just RR'd #5 glow plug on my OM 603 last night.  Yes, it was
a bear, but with patience and a 3/8 universal joint, it's doable.

On 4/7/06, ANGELO GIAIMO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Marshall,

 Thanks for the troubleshooting guide.GP #3 is bad and will be replaced
 this week.  It looks like a bear to get at, but nothing like a challange!

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler (213k)
'84 300D (211k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)



Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

-- anyone else remember when 512k of memory was a lot?


I remember when 5k was a lot!  My first computer had 256 bytes
of RAM.  (Still does, actually, in that I still have it.  But
I added 1k of RAM to it somewhere along the line.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1982 300 CDT Runs on and on and on ...

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey
I have just purchased a 1982 300 CDT. When I shut the car off at the 
key it

runs on and on. Lately it will shut off when I open the driver's door


Classic vacuum leak.  If you don't already, you must have a MityVac,
preferably one of the newer/better ones that does pressure too.  Is
it just when you swing open the door, or do the locks move first?
If the former, you have a cracked vacuum hose going through the
door hinge area.  But if cycling the locks is what makes it shut
off you have a torn diaphragm in one of the doors, or the trunk.
Great fun to find and fix, but you start chasing those at the tees
under the front floormats.  (Under the black plastic channels.)
There are five diaphragm-equipped dinguses to break.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

First bite on the car, and it's a scam.  I look forward to the
coming days!

I'm glad that this bozo is interested in my Goods for sale, and
can't read.  (Or write!)

Let's see.  Dear BLANK, go BLANK yourself.  ... and get better
mail-merge, spelling, and grammar programs!

-- Jim

I am Kelvin smith from US, colorado spring, currently an automobile 
dealer here in London, France, westafrica. I do business worldwide like 
buying  New  Used Autos for sales and all kinds of Electronics.I was 
just going through the Classified ads and I then came across the advert 
concerning your Goods for sale, am very much interested in purchasing. 
So kindly let me know the features, condition as well as the price you 
are willing to sell.





Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Desert Rat
Jim,
just tell him the car is in Nigeria and a money wire transfer to you
is required.

Free shipping to wherever he wants the car.

On 4/7/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 First bite on the car, and it's a scam.  I look forward to the
 coming days!

 I'm glad that this bozo is interested in my Goods for sale, and
 can't read.  (Or write!)

 Let's see.  Dear BLANK, go BLANK yourself.  ... and get better
 mail-merge, spelling, and grammar programs!

 -- Jim

 I am Kelvin smith from US, colorado spring, currently an automobile
 dealer here in London, France, westafrica. I do business worldwide like
 buying New  Used Autos for sales and all kinds of Electronics.I was
 just going through the Classified ads and I then came across the advert
 concerning your Goods for sale, am very much interested in purchasing.
 So kindly let me know the features, condition as well as the price you
 are willing to sell.


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--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K Stardust
1985 380SL 145K Blue Belle
1996 Sidekick 57K Kermit



Re: [MBZ] Project 240D

2006-04-08 Thread RELNGSON
That car is just about a duplicate of one that was owned by an Uncle of mine 
in San Mateo from '79 to about '92 when they bought a new Camry for my Aunt.

Mileage was about 125K and it sold for $3500. Never been hit and almost 
always out of the California sunlight. That's 14 years ago.

I had to laugh when I saw the Racor separator. It's installed wrong. Was. 
It's supposed to be vertical. For my '78 300D, I made a steel bracket to mount 
it 
vertically above that hole (in the pic) in the fender well.

Solved my injector nailing problems. Marshall don't like em. I don't care 
because I have hands on personal experience.

RLE/Seattle/woulda bought that 240 had I known it was available


Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread Jeff Zedic
I remember going to the software store and thinking I was a hotshot 
because I had a 14MB harddrive!


This was after using the dual 5 1/4 floppy with no drive at work!


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD



[MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
The steering on my 'new' 124 300D seemed stiff, at least compared to the
240D. I checked the pump reservoir-it is about half full.
I can't see any marks-how full should it be?
What PS fluid besides MB or FEBI can I use that I could get locally
without going to the stealer's?
TIA.
Dwight

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-




Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread Trampas
I come from mainly a DOS-Windows world but work with Unix during school. So
at work we are doing some major number crunching (8-10Gbytes of data) so we
built a Win XP x64 box. It removed memory constraints but was not fast. So I
went to install Linux (red hat fedora core 4). Spent about a day trying to
install video drivers, never could get them compile correctly etc. Contacted
some Linux gurus they spent hours trying. Finally gave up. 

I have not tried OSX or Mac yet but have been considering it now that I can
boot XP on the hardware if needed. I love the idea of BSD (OSX), I like the
OSX user interface better than XP. The only two problems I have with OSX is
#1 learning a new OS
#2 Programs that only run on XP like CAD software

Linux is great if you spend you life learning the OS, but for some of us a
computer is a tool which increases the value of our time. Linux for me
decreases the value of my time as it takes me extra time for configuring and
using the OS. 

Trampas 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jeff Zedic
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

I remember going to the software store and thinking I was a hotshot 
because I had a 14MB harddrive!

This was after using the dual 5 1/4 floppy with no drive at work!


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD

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[MBZ] Belt Noise

2006-04-08 Thread John Peterson

Hello Listers!

I have a lot of noise coming from what I think is the serpentine belt- seems 
to happen when it is damp outside. Belt dressing quiets things down to total 
silence for about 5 minutes, then the sound comes back.


Any ideas?  Could this be belt tension?  Can I adjust belt tension or is it 
automatic with the tensioner? Anything I can check?  I have a replacment 
belt.


Thanks.

John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5 78k





[MBZ] Diesel Purge Success

2006-04-08 Thread Peter T . Arnold
Took me about 45 minutes this morning to run a can of this elixir
through my machine.

Engine idles much better and quiter

My wife was so impressed she made me breakfast.

My sunroof is still jammed, suppose a second can  might fix it?


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!



Re: [MBZ] Belt Noise

2006-04-08 Thread Peter T . Arnold
Using a large screw driver {Be careful!} side load the belt ternsioner
and shock assembly, while it's making noise.  I'm betting the noise
will subside.  Buy new M/B parts from Rusty, replace shock  bearing
assembly.  Good for another 100KMI
That's my experience..


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  240KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that
is!

On Sat, 8 Apr 2006 09:00:07 -0400, you wrote:

Hello Listers!

I have a lot of noise coming from what I think is the serpentine belt- seems 
to happen when it is damp outside. Belt dressing quiets things down to total 
silence for about 5 minutes, then the sound comes back.

Any ideas?  Could this be belt tension?  Can I adjust belt tension or is it 
automatic with the tensioner? Anything I can check?  I have a replacment 
belt.

Thanks.

John Peterson
Kingston RI  1991 300D 2.5 78k



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Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread Sunil Hari
there should be a white plastic thingy on the center post that has marks on
it that say Min 20, max 20, min 80, and max 80 -- those are the
different fill lines for different engine temperatures (in C).  I'm 99% sure
you can use ATF - most people do  I put the MB stuff in b/c it's not red.

On 4/8/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The steering on my 'new' 124 300D seemed stiff, at least compared to the
 240D. I checked the pump reservoir-it is about half full.
 I can't see any marks-how full should it be?
 What PS fluid besides MB or FEBI can I use that I could get locally
 without going to the stealer's?
 TIA.
 Dwight

 Dwight Giles, Jr
 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
 Wickford, RI


 -


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread lee
On Saturday 08 April 2006 6:56, Trampas wrote:
 Linux is great if you spend you life learning the OS, but for some of us a
 computer is a tool which increases the value of our time. Linux for me
 decreases the value of my time as it takes me extra time for configuring
 and using the OS.


I have been using LInux for a decade or so.  I initially made the switch from 
Windoze based on the fact that I was spending several hours per month 
diagnosing problems,  restoring registries, etc after crashes and I figured 
that my time would be better spent learning a stable OS rather than 
bandaiding  a total POS like Windoze 98. 

I have used several Linux distros. I am not by any means a computer whiz, 
ubernerd, etc. 

There is a great deal of variation from distro to distro in terms of ease of 
installation and configuration. Installing and configuring Red Hat is not 
necessarily the best intro to Linux. Had you started with Mepis, Ubuntu, 
Kubuntu, etc, you may have had a more pleasant experience. 

Using Linux is no more difficult than using XP or OSX from a daily user's 
perspective.  The difference in daily use is that you are using a different 
windows manager and different applications, i.e., OpenOffice rather than M$ 
Office, the GIMP rather than Photoshop, Firefox or Konqueror rather than M$ 
Internet Explorer. These transitions are easy to make, IMO.  KDE in 
particular is very similar to Windows in layout. The big differences between 
Linux and other OSs become apparent when you are functioning more in an 
administration mode. In this mode, there will be a learning curve, but with 
Linux you will be learning a system which is really elegant in most respects. 

Initial configuration of a linux OS can occasionally present challenges, but 
it is a wee bit of pain, followed by countless hours of using an OS which 
costs nothing, doesn't crash and doesn't need anti-virus software. 

Lee



Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Kevin J. Slater
Page comes back to me as mime type text/plain. Not sure if it's on my end
(proxy) or on yours. I assume most of folks on this list use IE to view
your pages. I'm using Firefox 1.5 FWIW..

...Kevin

Jim Cathey said:
 Drum roll please.

 For sale, 1979 240D.  302kmi, auxiliary fuel tank.  Perfect
 for biodiesel operation, has 1000 mile range.

 Not perfect, but looks pretty good.  Rust-free.  Reluctant
 cold-starter, but has started every time for me so far.
 Very clean inside, you can date with this car and not be
 ashamed.

 $2500  See http://cathey.dogear.com/mb240dsale.html for
 pictures and more information.

 OK, I don't expect you guys to buy it, I'm planning to list it
 on nearby Craigs lists to start, especially in Seattle.  But I'd
 appreciate feedback on the web site, etc.

 I'm planning to redo the pictures if I can get a nice overcast
 day while it's still clean.  The hazy sun resulted in pictures that
 are much more washed-out looking than the car deserves.  Also need
 to get an engine compartment shot, I seem to have forgotten that one.

 -- Jim


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Thank God for Microsoft -- Linus Torvalds



Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
OK-thanks Sunil. I wondered about that white thing-on the 123 the fill
line is in in the casting. I found out that my FLAPS can order the MB ps
fluid. There is also a foreign car shop that supposedly sells it. Yes, I
use the 
ATF in the 240D. How do you like the upgrade form 123 to 124? Seems like
a lot of us are doing that now.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


-

there should be a white plastic thingy on the center post that has marks
on it that say Min 20, max 20, min 80, and max 80 -- those are
the different fill lines for different engine temperatures (in C).  I'm
99% sure you can use ATF - most people do  I put the MB stuff in b/c
it's not red.


 -


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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge Success

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

My sunroof is still jammed, suppose a second can  might fix it?


If spilled in the right place!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread Sunil Hari
I really like the 124 as a driving machine, but maintenance on it is harder
b/c the spaces are tighter.  Also, the 124 really -looks- like a modern car
with modern features, while the 123 and 115 I had before looked like
something that a Bond villain would drive.

There are ups and downs to both.  But the best thing about the 124 is the
lack of rust.

Also, I'm 99% sure that the turbo in my 123 was non-functional.  I think
that if I had a turbocharged, no-rust 123 I'd be just as happy as I am with
my 124.

On 4/8/06, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 OK-thanks Sunil. I wondered about that white thing-on the 123 the fill
 line is in in the casting. I found out that my FLAPS can order the MB ps
 fluid. There is also a foreign car shop that supposedly sells it. Yes, I
 use the
 ATF in the 240D. How do you like the upgrade form 123 to 124? Seems like
 a lot of us are doing that now.

 Dwight Giles, Jr
 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
 Wickford, RI


 -

 there should be a white plastic thingy on the center post that has marks
 on it that say Min 20, max 20, min 80, and max 80 -- those are
 the different fill lines for different engine temperatures (in C).  I'm
 99% sure you can use ATF - most people do  I put the MB stuff in b/c
 it's not red.

 
  -
 
 
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 --
 Sunil Hari
 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 513-205-7474
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] Belt Noise

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey
I have a lot of noise coming from what I think is the serpentine belt- 
seems
to happen when it is damp outside. Belt dressing quiets things down to 
total

silence for about 5 minutes, then the sound comes back.


Certainly try another belt, but while it's off check all the
accessories for excess resistance.  What kind of sound is it?
If screechy/squeaky it could be a dragging accessory, or a
bad bearing on the tensioner.  If more of a rattling look hard
at the tensioner and the attachment of the crank pulley.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread John Berryman


On Apr 8, 2006, at 10:40 AM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:


OK-thanks Sunil. I wondered about that white thing-on the 123 the fill
line is in in the casting. I found out that my FLAPS can order the  
MB ps
fluid. There is also a foreign car shop that supposedly sells it.  
Yes, I

use the
ATF in the 240D. How do you like the upgrade form 123 to 124? Seems  
like

a lot of us are doing that now.

Dwight Giles, Jr


	There is no reason not to use Dexron III w/Mercron or your favorite  
synthetic ATF. I use Amsoil and have used M 1. No problems and with  
old fluid there was slight but noticeable binding or resistance that  
is no longer present. Changing with Dexron yielded similar results. I  
assume you'll be replacing the filter too.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Project 240D

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey
I had to laugh when I saw the Racor separator. It's installed wrong. 
Was.


I just pulled it out to photograph it.  It sits in its place vertically.
You can see it in one of the engine photographs.


RLE/Seattle/woulda bought that 240 had I known it was available


Still not too late!  :-)

Page comes back to me as mime type text/plain. Not sure if it's on my 
end

(proxy) or on yours. I assume most of folks on this list use IE to view
your pages. I'm using Firefox 1.5 FWIW..


Your end I assume.  Firefox 1.0.7 (Mac OS X) is what I use here.
No other problems like that reported with the site.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

...the 123 and 115 I had before looked like
something that a Bond villain would drive.


No, Mr. Bond, I expect you to drive!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge Success

2006-04-08 Thread Marshall Booth

Peter T. Arnold wrote:



My sunroof is still jammed, suppose a second can  might fix it?


That MIGHT depend on what you do with the can and it's contents.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




[MBZ] Pinstripes?

2006-04-08 Thread tom savage
Anyone have an experience pinstriping a car?  My 300D has pretty 
sad-looking adhesive pinstripes running down its flanks.  I'd rather not 
have the stripes at all and would just rip them off and be done with it, 
but they've left the paint underneath permanently striped and it looks 
worse without them.  So since I'm stuck with stripes, I might as well 
have the proper two-tone painted kind.


Google has revealed a wide assortment of stencil tape so I'll at least 
be able to do straight lines, but also a plethora of special paint and 
brushes, which are probably overkill for my purpose.  My thought is that 
with the stencil, all I should need is a generic brush and some touch-up 
paint, or is the quality all in the application media?


The car is Manilla Beige and I think brown and dark red might make nice 
compliments.  It may not look any better when I'm done, but it will at 
least look differently.


Thanks,
Tom



Re: [MBZ] Pinstripes?

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

Anyone have an experience pinstriping a car?  My 300D has pretty
sad-looking adhesive pinstripes running down its flanks.  I'd rather 
not
have the stripes at all and would just rip them off and be done with 
it,

but they've left the paint underneath permanently striped and it looks
worse without them.  So since I'm stuck with stripes, I might as well
have the proper two-tone painted kind.


Have you gotten a quote from an auto trim place for redoing the
adhesive striping?  It might not be that bad.  The adhesive striping
on our SDL is failing now.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Belt Noise

2006-04-08 Thread Marshall Booth

John Peterson wrote:

Hello Listers!

I have a lot of noise coming from what I think is the serpentine belt- seems 
to happen when it is damp outside. Belt dressing quiets things down to total 
silence for about 5 minutes, then the sound comes back.


Any ideas?  Could this be belt tension?  Can I adjust belt tension or is it 
automatic with the tensioner? Anything I can check?  I have a replacment 
belt.


The belt tensioner usually requires attention every 75kmi or so. The 
bearing of the tensioner and the idler wear and if the idler starts to 
cock even slightly (look down at the idler from above, to see if the 
idler wheel is absolutely parallel to the belt) service is required. 
Sometimes the idler is all that's require. Almost as often, the lever 
will require replacement. Any time either the idler or lever is replaced 
it's usually desirable to replace the shock absorber. If the engine has 
more than 150-175 kmi on it, I'd replace the spring as well.


Belts usually last 60+kmi. PLEASE do NOT EVER use any kind of belt 
dressing. If the belt makes noise, find out why and fix it. On the OM60x 
engine, if the belt fails you are dead in the water.


http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/13-3200hw.pdf

http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/13-343.pdf

http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/602_603/13-1202hw.pdf

The procedure for checking the belt is insane when they pull out the 
compression tester!!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 PS fluid

2006-04-08 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Right now I just need to top off until I get time to change filter, etc.
. I am not sure what is in there no -not red-almost feels like synthetic
oil.

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI


There is no reason not to use Dexron III w/Mercron or your
favorite  
synthetic ATF. I use Amsoil and have used M 1. No problems and with  
old fluid there was slight but noticeable binding or resistance that  
is no longer present. Changing with Dexron yielded similar results. I  
assume you'll be replacing the filter too.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

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Re: [MBZ] Pinstripes?

2006-04-08 Thread Peter T . Arnold
I've had my wife's last 3 cars hand striped by a local fellow, cost is
about $125.00 0n her Crizer.  It looks grand, it's repairable, and
unique.  Paint on my 300SDL is not worthy of the efforet.

Pete

On Sat, 08 Apr 2006 10:19:44 -0500, you wrote:

Anyone have an experience pinstriping a car?  My 300D has pretty 
sad-looking adhesive pinstripes running down its flanks.  I'd rather not 
have the stripes at all and would just rip them off and be done with it, 
but they've left the paint underneath permanently striped and it looks 
worse without them.  So since I'm stuck with stripes, I might as well 
have the proper two-tone painted kind.

Google has revealed a wide assortment of stencil tape so I'll at least 
be able to do straight lines, but also a plethora of special paint and 
brushes, which are probably overkill for my purpose.  My thought is that 
with the stencil, all I should need is a generic brush and some touch-up 
paint, or is the quality all in the application media?

The car is Manilla Beige and I think brown and dark red might make nice 
compliments.  It may not look any better when I'm done, but it will at 
least look differently.

Thanks,
Tom

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Re: [MBZ] Belt Noise

2006-04-08 Thread Joe Knight
Few months ago I was experiencing the same thing in my '87 wagon. 
Managed to ignore it a bit too long  one day I got a call from my
wife's cell.  It had thrown the belt  had to be towed home.  Turned
out that the alternator pulley was loose; nut had backed out ~1/16
which was enough.  I wound up replacing the alternator with a 90A from
an E300D as there was one available close by and the wiring harness
for that unit is fairly inexpensive.

joe



[MBZ] tranny ATF dipstick amount

2006-04-08 Thread Luther Gulseth
How much fluid does it take to go from the bottom mark on the dipstick to  
the top (full) mark?


--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] tranny ATF dipstick amount

2006-04-08 Thread Sunil Hari
IIRC, 0.3 L in a 123 car.

On 4/8/06, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 How much fluid does it take to go from the bottom mark on the dipstick to
 the top (full) mark?

 --
 Luther   KB5QHU
 Alma, Ark
 '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
 '82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
 '82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work

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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


[MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs

2006-04-08 Thread Constantine N. Polites
Just a note for glow plug removal.  You will save yourself a lot of 
grief if you remove the intake manifold.

Constantine



[MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread BillR
Stopped by a garage sale and could not pass up an 8 hp  Homilite LR4400
generator - looks to be in good cosmetic shape,  for $25.  It does not have
an owner's manual.  It does have the dreaded pull start Briggs  Stratton
engine that I have had such a hard time starting in the past.  Do any of you
have any comments about getting it started? I had planned to just give it a
shot of ether.  My mechanic son is heading to the Middle East for some
months and won't be around to help until much of hurricane season is over.
PO used it two years ago [area lot power for a week], had it serviced at the
end of '04 and then did not start or use it for the '05 season [has service
stickers from '99  '04].  Full tank of gas seems to be ok, but I don't know
how 'bad' gas smells or how long it will be okay [making the assumption they
did not use a stabilizer  in it].  Also, as I don't seem to be able to
locate an owners manual for it, I am wondering how much a 4000kw unit will
power.  I am interested in the water pump, a refrigerator and at best a
small window AC unit [probably switching between the AC and frig].  I had
really wanted a diesel self starting unit but the price made me decide to
try this one.
Thoughts appreciated.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD   273k  Mobil 1Delvac
 
 


Re: [MBZ] draining torque converter

2006-04-08 Thread Sunil Hari
Thanks for all your help  - spun the TC around via Larry's method and
drained it.  rather, it's draining now.  time to put everything back
together.

YES - there IS an aluminum washer on the plug.

On 4/7/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hello Sunil,
 I use a large flat blade screw driver and turn the engine by wedgeing the
 screwdriver in the hole next to the one the TC drain plug will appear and
 work the engine around - making sure to turn the engine in its normal
 direction od travel.  Clockwise when viewed standing in front of the car
 and
 looking toward the radiator IIRC.

 Good luck - BTW, do me a favor - when you remove the TC plug, look so see
 if
 it has a alum washer on the plug please.

 There's some smaller openings you;ll see near a large opening on the
 bottom
 of the torque converter housing - the plug will appear
 in the larger opening.  Use the smaller openings to wedge the screwdriver
 in - and pry the TC around.

 Sincerely,
 Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
 A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
 For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
 - Original Message -
 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 6:57 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] draining torque converter


  I'm draining the ATF out of my 300D and changing the ATF filter.  How do
  you
  turn the engine to line up the drain bolt on the TC?
 
  In my 84 300D, I could work a huge socket (22mm) onto the crankshaft and
  turn it by hand.  Now, there's a fan shroud in the way, at the minimum.
  Is
  there an easier way to turn the engine?
 
  Also, since I can't start the car right now, which way does the engine
  turn?
 
  --
  Sunil Hari
  1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  513-205-7474
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474


Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread John M McIntosh
I'd dump the gas into a container and run it in say your lawnmower,  
check the oil, see if the spark plug is new and the right type for  
the engine
in the past two problem engines I had trouble starting here were  
traced back to the wrong plug and gapping. (idiot mower repair folks).


a 4kw generator will power 4000W/120V = 32 amps.

Mind electrical motors can draw more amps at startup time, I'd check  
the amp requires for the pump and your A/C unit
I'd suspect they could be 15 amps each, but that is max draw, and  
power consumption for usage would be less.

so likely would need to bring on each unit separately.

Try running your A/C and the fridge and then kick the water pump on  
and see what happens...


I've a 7.5Kw unit which we run monthly for an 1/2 hour just to ensure  
it will start when it's needed, likely during raging
winter storms with 90 Kpm winds and driving rain, ask me if I'm happy  
to mess with it at 6:00am so we can have lights  coffee

as we wait for the power company to restore service.


On 8-Apr-06, at 10:40 AM, BillR wrote:


Also, as I don't seem to be able to
locate an owners manual for it, I am wondering how much a 4000kw  
unit will
power.  I am interested in the water pump, a refrigerator and at  
best a
small window AC unit [probably switching between the AC and frig].   
I had
really wanted a diesel self starting unit but the price made me  
decide to

try this one.


John
1983 300TDt  374k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  174k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 173k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] Project 240D in Oregon

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey

Another beautiful morning.  I was told here yesterday that the glow
plug holes can be brushed out using a .22 rifle cleaning brush for a
noticeable effect on cold starting, there _was_ a considerable
amount of soot in them when I had the plugs out before.  May try this
today, it's pretty easy to get the plugs out.  I think I'll first have
a look at the spare 615 head I've got so I can see what I'm facing.
(The .22 brush may be best for the smaller pencil plugs rather than
these series plugs.  Do I even _have_ a .22 metal rifle brush?)

By the time I made it into the woods to look at the spare head it has
started to rain.  Great.  The spare head tells me that the .22 brush
ought to work just fine.  I looked, and I have _two_ bore brushes
that ought to work.

I checked the voltage drop on the plugs, and that dratted #3 was
again over 2V, versus the 1V spec.  So I pulled them all out and
cleaned them.  They were much less sooty than the last time, the
Italian tuneups seem to have worked.  Brushing out the bores didn't
yield much.  I swapped the one iffy plug with the one spare glow
plug I have.

A prospective buyer stopped by and we went for a test drive.  He's
local, and interested in a biodiesel-mobile.  The first real nibble!

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread Jim Cathey
an owner's manual.  It does have the dreaded pull start Briggs  
Stratton
engine that I have had such a hard time starting in the past.  Do any 
of you
have any comments about getting it started? I had planned to just give 
it a

shot of ether.


That'll do it.  It's what I do on such things.

locate an owners manual for it, I am wondering how much a 4000kw unit 
will

power.  I am interested in the water pump, a refrigerator and at best a
small window AC unit [probably switching between the AC and frig].


For $25 you can learn to live with it!  4kW will run a fair amount, I
have a 1600W one that will run the AC in the camper.  That's a 30A
generator.  Just beware that if it's a 220V unit, you can only draw
2kW off of each side.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If the gas is old, it will smell like varnish. A good idea to replace it 
and drain the carb bowl as well.
Throw a new spark plug and some fresh oil in it and it should fire off. 
there isn't a whole lot more to go wrong unless it's pretty old
test run it and if it doesn't just inhale oil it would be a good idea to 
put synthetic oil in. Those little portable jobs weren't designed for 
continuous use ,synthetic will help them survive a long term usage like 
a hurricane outage


Look around you should find a calculator onthe net to figure out the 
usage of your appliences pump etc to see how much you can run at a time


---Robert

BillR wrote:

Stopped by a garage sale and could not pass up an 8 hp  Homilite LR4400
generator - looks to be in good cosmetic shape,  for $25.  It does not have
an owner's manual.  It does have the dreaded pull start Briggs  Stratton
engine that I have had such a hard time starting in the past.  Do any of you
have any comments about getting it started? I had planned to just give it a
shot of ether.  My mechanic son is heading to the Middle East for some
months and won't be around to help until much of hurricane season is over.
PO used it two years ago [area lot power for a week], had it serviced at the
end of '04 and then did not start or use it for the '05 season [has service
stickers from '99  '04].  Full tank of gas seems to be ok, but I don't know
how 'bad' gas smells or how long it will be okay [making the assumption they
did not use a stabilizer  in it].  Also, as I don't seem to be able to
locate an owners manual for it, I am wondering how much a 4000kw unit will
power.  I am interested in the water pump, a refrigerator and at best a
small window AC unit [probably switching between the AC and frig].  I had
really wanted a diesel self starting unit but the price made me decide to
try this one.
Thoughts appreciated.
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD   273k  Mobil 1Delvac
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread BillR
Thanks John.  I don't have a lawn mower [wife made me get rid of all yard
equipment after my heart attack and bypass].  I snuck in a pressure washer
[easy start Honda engine] so I will burn it in that. It is quite
uncomfortable around here in the summer with no AC, but nothing like blowing
snow and such.  Main need is water and some way to keep food safe.  Had a
BIG oak split in the back yard this AM, and will have to take down the rest
for safety reasons, so will have fire wood for years to come.  I've printed
out your stuff and will go by that.
Thanks again. 
Bill
BillR
Jacksonville FL  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John M McIntosh
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] generator ??

I'd dump the gas into a container and run it in say your lawnmower, check
the oil, see if the spark plug is new and the right type for the engine in
the past two problem engines I had trouble starting here were traced back to
the wrong plug and gapping. (idiot mower repair folks).

a 4kw generator will power 4000W/120V = 32 amps.

Mind electrical motors can draw more amps at startup time, I'd check the amp
requires for the pump and your A/C unit I'd suspect they could be 15 amps
each, but that is max draw, and power consumption for usage would be less.
so likely would need to bring on each unit separately.

Try running your A/C and the fridge and then kick the water pump on and see
what happens...

I've a 7.5Kw unit which we run monthly for an 1/2 hour just to ensure it
will start when it's needed, likely during raging winter storms with 90 Kpm
winds and driving rain, ask me if I'm happy to mess with it at 6:00am so we
can have lights  coffee as we wait for the power company to restore
service.


On 8-Apr-06, at 10:40 AM, BillR wrote:

 Also, as I don't seem to be able to
 locate an owners manual for it, I am wondering how much a 4000kw unit 
 will power.  I am interested in the water pump, a refrigerator and at 
 best a
 small window AC unit [probably switching between the AC and frig].   
 I had
 really wanted a diesel self starting unit but the price made me decide 
 to try this one.

John
1983 300TDt  374k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac) 1990 300TDt  174k Kilometers
(mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 173k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)



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Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread BillR
Thanks Jim.  Yes, it does have a 220v capacity.  I will not be using the
220v pump, just the 110v.  That is adequate without the sprinklers.  It does
pay to drive through that sort of neighborhood once in awhile [beautiful
point of land on the St. Johns River here in Jax].  Nice folks who seemed to
have things professionally maintained before, and when the husband died and
it wouldn't start just wanted to get it out of the way.   Good enough for
me, as long as another of my sons is around to help me get it started.
BillR
Jacksonville  FL
1981 300SD  273k

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:17 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] generator ??

 an owner's manual.  It does have the dreaded pull start Briggs  
 Stratton engine that I have had such a hard time starting in the past.  
 Do any of you have any comments about getting it started? I had 
 planned to just give it a shot of ether.

That'll do it.  It's what I do on such things.

 locate an owners manual for it, I am wondering how much a 4000kw unit 
 will power.  I am interested in the water pump, a refrigerator and at 
 best a small window AC unit [probably switching between the AC and 
 frig].

For $25 you can learn to live with it!  4kW will run a fair amount, I have a
1600W one that will run the AC in the camper.  That's a 30A generator.  Just
beware that if it's a 220V unit, you can only draw 2kW off of each side.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] 1990 300TE is LOUD

2006-04-08 Thread Wakin's
My wife took the 1990 300TE for a short trip today, and on the way home, it
suddenly got very loud (muffler loud).

I just took a quick look, and I can see rusted bits of metal coming out of
the tail pipe, and car will backfire when reved up. I am assuming the guts
of something let loose, but there are three choices - converter, center
muffler, and rear muffler.

I guess I will start by taking the rear muffler off and see what I can find,
but thought someone may have some advice on which part may have blown out
that would cause the car to suddenly get loud.

Thanks

Dave Wakin




Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread BillR
Robert - Good idea on the synthetic oil.  I'll do that and try to get it
fired up in the next few weeks.  Gas smells fine, but not worth not knowing.
I'll put stabilizer in the fuel supply for storage. My understanding is that
the service before it sat for a year included a new plug, but for the small
investment there it is worth changing that also.   I just hope I don't need
it this year either. 
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert  Tara Ludwick
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 3:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] generator ??

If the gas is old, it will smell like varnish. A good idea to replace it and
drain the carb bowl as well.
Throw a new spark plug and some fresh oil in it and it should fire off. 
there isn't a whole lot more to go wrong unless it's pretty old test run it
and if it doesn't just inhale oil it would be a good idea to put synthetic
oil in. Those little portable jobs weren't designed for continuous use
,synthetic will help them survive a long term usage like a hurricane outage

Look around you should find a calculator onthe net to figure out the usage
of your appliences pump etc to see how much you can run at a time

---Robert

BillR wrote:
 Stopped by a garage sale and could not pass up an 8 hp  Homilite 
 LR4400 generator - looks to be in good cosmetic shape,  for $25.  It 
 does not have an owner's manual.  It does have the dreaded pull start 
 Briggs  Stratton engine that I have had such a hard time starting in 
 the past.  Do any of you have any comments about getting it started? I 
 had planned to just give it a shot of ether.  My mechanic son is 
 heading to the Middle East for some months and won't be around to help
until much of hurricane season is over.
 PO used it two years ago [area lot power for a week], had it serviced 
 at the end of '04 and then did not start or use it for the '05 season 
 [has service stickers from '99  '04].  Full tank of gas seems to be 
 ok, but I don't know how 'bad' gas smells or how long it will be okay 
 [making the assumption they did not use a stabilizer  in it].  Also, 
 as I don't seem to be able to locate an owners manual for it, I am 
 wondering how much a 4000kw unit will power.  I am interested in the 
 water pump, a refrigerator and at best a small window AC unit 
 [probably switching between the AC and frig].  I had really wanted a 
 diesel self starting unit but the price made me decide to try this one.
 Thoughts appreciated.
 BillR
 Jacksonville FL
 1981 300SD   273k  Mobil 1Delvac
  
  
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Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage-update

2006-04-08 Thread Luther Gulseth
sent this message last night with attachmentsI'll delete them and  
maybe Kaleb will allow them later.
This afternoon while changing the oil cooler lines, I disconnected the  
alda line to create more room for my wrenchand there was fresh oil in  
itbad sign?



Here's the latest.  I pulled the intake off the front of the turbo and the
exhaust off the back.  The exhaust was black with soot, but dry.  The
intake had fresh oil as you can see in the pictures I'll attach.  I wiped
a spot with my finger (outlined in yellow) and the rest of the oil is
outlined in red.  Is that bad?  Could the oil be going from the turbo
directly into the intake?
Tomorrow I'm replacing the oil cooler lines, they're moist.  Along with
that will be the engine mounts, tranny mount, driveline support
boot/bearing/dust cap and the rear sway bar links.  Right now it's sitting
in the drive way with out any oil in the engine, prep'd for the
extravaganzacoolerlinesproject.
Any suggestions on the turbo oil?

On Tue, 28 Mar 2006 13:00:43 -0600, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

This will be tough.my odometer is now working 50% of the  
timegr love an old car.  Always something new to keep you on  
your toes.


Luther

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:36 , Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


report back

Luther Gulseth wrote:

BUT, after sealing the valve cover baffle Thurs/Fri, I don't see  
anymore

white smoke at idle, and it's hardly there at 3000+RPM.  THAT may have
been most of my useage.  I can put 250 on this week and see if the
comsumption is still high.

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 18:18:41 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin kaleb at  
striplin.net

wrote:










--
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work



Re: [MBZ] We can all just throw our Macs away

2006-04-08 Thread David Brodbeck
lee wrote:
 Initial configuration of a linux OS can occasionally present challenges, but 
 it is a wee bit of pain, followed by countless hours of using an OS which 
 costs nothing, doesn't crash and doesn't need anti-virus software. 

On typical 32-bit machines, that's true.  In fact, the hardware
detection in the recent distributions I've used has been pretty much
flawless.  It was actually a little easier than Windows because I didn't
have to hunt down drivers.

However, Trampas is talking about a 64-bit machine.  Everything I've
heard indicates that Linux on 64-bit desktop systems isn't quite ready
for prime time.  The initial push was to get 64-bit working well on
servers, and that means that a lot of the driver support and such isn't
quite there for desktop systems.

Microsoft went through a similar period with 64-bit Windows XP.
However, they can demand that hardware manufacturers write new drivers
for them.  Linux distributions don't have that kind of pull.



[MBZ] 190e tensioner bolt access

2006-04-08 Thread Tony
I have a 1991 190e 2.6. The airpump seized
(conveniently???) as I drifted into my driveway. I
have another one but am trying to find a way to loosen
the tensioner (the centered, fulcrum) 19mm bolt
without having to remove the radiator, etc. 

Does anyone have any experience with this?

Regards,
Tony Bennett
1991 190e 2.6 (131,000)


Don't kid yourself Jimmy, if a cow ever got the chance he'd eat you and 
everyone you care about. 
-Troy McClure

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Re: [MBZ] generator ??

2006-04-08 Thread David Brodbeck
BillR wrote:
 It does have the dreaded pull start Briggs  Stratton
 engine that I have had such a hard time starting in the past.  Do any of you
 have any comments about getting it started?

Put in a new spark plug, or at least wire-brush the one that's in there.
 Gap it to specs.  This is a magneto ignition so the gap spec is usually
pretty small -- too big a gap and it won't fire.  Get some fresh gas in
there, too.

Some of these engines have primers, and some have a manual choke.  The
choke, if equipped, is usually a small lever on the carb, the primer is
usually a small rubber button.  They tend to be critical to getting the
thing to start on the first pull or two.  For a cold start, if it has a
choke set it on full.  If it has a primer, try three to five strokes.



Re: [MBZ] 1990 300TE is LOUD

2006-04-08 Thread OK Don
I don't have any experience to pass on, but my guess would be the rear
muffler ---
It doesn't seem likely that rusted metal from further up stream would
get through the rear muffler in large enough chunks to see, and the
rear muffler is the coldest part of the system, hence collects the
most moisture, therefore is the most likely to rust --
All theory and guesses on my part - FWIW.

On 4/8/06, Wakin's [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 My wife took the 1990 300TE for a short trip today, and on the way home, it
 suddenly got very loud (muffler loud).

 I just took a quick look, and I can see rusted bits of metal coming out of
 the tail pipe, and car will backfire when reved up. I am assuming the guts
 of something let loose, but there are three choices - converter, center
 muffler, and rear muffler.

 I guess I will start by taking the rear muffler off and see what I can find,
 but thought someone may have some advice on which part may have blown out
 that would cause the car to suddenly get loud.

 Thanks

 Dave Wakin

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go



Re: [MBZ] 300D Bundtcake Rims

2006-04-08 Thread Mitch Haley
Jim Cathey wrote:
 
 My brother raced dirt bikes at one time.  Can you guess what happened
 one time we all (siblings  cousins) went to the go-kart racetrack?
 He won every time.  Handily.  Didn't seem to matter which pig he got
 stuck with.

Reminds me of a story I read in a car mag once. The author had arrived
late at the unveiling of the 6 cyl Toyota Supra at a racetrack. Everybody
else was in the food tent when he arrived, so he hopped in the Supra and
hit the track. Dan Gurney saw him, got in a Corolla, and passed him before
he completed his first lap. I can't remember who the journalist was, but he
test drove cars and wrote about it for a living and considered himself a
good driver.



[MBZ] Ethanol-diesel

2006-04-08 Thread Mitch Haley
Friday April 7, 12:42 pm ET 
Press Release

NEWARK, DE--(MARKET WIRE)--Apr 7, 2006 -- O2Diesel Corporation (AMEX:OTD - 
News) a
pioneer in clean burning ethanol diesel fuel blends announced today that it is 
now under
contract to develop a new cleaner burning alternative diesel fuel for the U.S. 
Department
of Defense. This new fuel will help to comply with Executive Order 13149 which 
requires
federal agencies with fleets of 20 or more light, medium, and heavy-duty 
on-road vehicles
in metropolitan areas to reduce their petroleum consumption by 20%.


The fuel will be composed of at least 20% renewable sources including the 
company's
patented and proprietary natural oil based solubilizing additive -- O2D05. This 
fuel,
when finalized, will help the Department of Defense (DoD) facilities meet local 
air
quality requirements and strengthen its commitment to reducing the USA's 
dependency
on foreign oil imports.

Research on this new fuel, underway at the Southwest Research Institute in San 
Antonio,
Texas, will ensure that the fuel meets DoD's environmental, health, and 
performance
requirements. The research will be followed by a real-world demonstration at 
one or more
of DoD's U.S. facilities. O2Diesel's ethanol diesel blend, O2Diesel(TM), is 
currently in
use at Nellis Air Force Base in Las Vegas, NV where it has been operating 
successfully
since mid-summer 2005.

O2Diesel has received a contract for $800,000 in DoD appropriations to perform 
this
research. This and similar funding has enabled O2Diesel(TM) to be recognized 
for its
emissions benefits and petroleum displacement opportunities in the growing
and highly-segmented 55 billion gallon per year U.S. diesel fuel market.

O2Diesel(TM) is an extensively tested blend of 7.7vol% fuel grade ethanol, 
regular diesel
and the company's patented and proprietary fuel technology. The use of this fuel
significantly reduces emissions without effecting power or performance.

DoD, for example, is the largest single consumer of diesel  distillate fuels 
in the
United States. O2Diesel(TM) shows great promise in helping the armed forces 
reduce diesel
engine emissions at U.S. military installations and meet DoD and presidential 
directives
to cut petroleum consumption by as much as 20% in the near future.

O2Diesel(TM) has demonstrated its ease of use through testing at facilities that
centrally-fuel diesel-powered equipment, including urban buses, mining and port
handling equipment. Current fuel distribution equipment is used and no special 
engine
modifications are required.

Given the obvious need for the United States to begin taking much larger steps 
to
reduce importation of petroleum products and to improve urban air quality, our 
company
is beginning to take an important place in the emerging renewable liquid fuels 
markets.
Funding from the government is enabling O2Diesel to complete all the regulatory 
and
verification requirements that any new fuel has to meet, said Alan Rae, Chief
Executive Officer.

O2Diesel(TM) is or can be made available today in any fuel market utilizing the 
existing
diesel fuel storage, supply, and distribution network. The Company's patented 
renewable,
natural oil derived additive technology produces a stable ethanol-diesel 
blended fuel
which when used in standard diesel engines results in  a more complete 
combustion and
emissions of fewer toxic and ozone-forming pollutants.

More About O2Diesel: The Company and Its Fuel Technology

O2Diesel Corporation (AMEX:OTD - News) and its U.S. subsidiary O2Diesel, Inc., 
is a
pioneer in the commercial development of a cleaner-burning diesel fuel 
alternative that
provides exceptional performance and environmental qualities for centrally 
fueled
fleets and off-road equipment of all kinds. Engineered and designed for 
universal
application, O2Diesel(TM) is an ethanol-diesel blend that substantially reduces 
harmful
emissions without sacrificing power and performance. Extensive independent and 
government-
recognized laboratory and in-use field tests have demonstrated the 
effectiveness of
O2Diesel(TM) -- the introduction of this cost-effective, cleaner-burning diesel 
fuel is
now underway in the United States and other global markets. For more 
information please
refer to www.o2diesel.com.

Forward-Looking Statements

Safe Harbor Statement under the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 
1995:
Statements in this press release regarding O2Diesel Corp's business which are 
not
historical facts are forward-looking statements that involve risks and 
uncertainties.
For a discussion of such risks and uncertainties, which could cause actual 
results to
differ from those contained in the forward-looking statements, see Risk 
Factors in
the Company's Annual Report or Form 10-K for the most recently ended fiscal 
year. 
O2Diesel is a trademark of O2Diesel Corp.



  Contact:
  COMPANY CONTACT:
  Alan Rae
  Chief Executive Officer
  O2Diesel, Inc.
  302-266-6000



Re: [MBZ] 1990 300TE is LOUD

2006-04-08 Thread Peter Frederick

Converter is probably fine, but the rest of it is all shot.

Backfire is probably not exhaust failure related, though.

Replace center and rear muffler -- use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to 
split the pipes on the converter and spread them to remove, this 
doesn't take long and will prevent damage to those pipes.


Then, when installing, bolt up the flange first. leave the sleeve/donut 
loose until you have the rest of the system up and in place, it cannot 
easily be moved again.


Fairly easy as exhaust goes, but not particularly cheap.  Use only OEM 
parts -- aftermarkets don't usually fit correctly and unless you have a 
muffler shop, cause trouble.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD excessive oil usage-update

2006-04-08 Thread Luther Gulseth
Here's the latest.  I pulled the intake off the front of the turbo and the  =

exhaust off the back.  The exhaust was black with soot, but dry.  The  =

intake had fresh oil as you can see in the pictures I'll attach.  I wiped  =

a spot with my finger (outlined in yellow) and the rest of the oil is  =

outlined in red.  Is that bad?  Could the oil be going from the turbo  =

directly into the intake?
Tomorrow I'm replacing the oil cooler lines, they're moist.  Along with  =

that will be the engine mounts, tranny mount, driveline support  =

boot/bearing/dust cap and the rear sway bar links.  Right now it's sitting  =

in the drive way with out any oil in the engine, prep'd for the  =

extravaganzacoolerlinesproject.
Any suggestions on the turbo oil?

On Tue, 28 Mar 2006 13:00:43 -0600, Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]  =

wrote:

 This will be tough.my odometer is now working 50% of the  =

 timegr love an old car.  Always something new to keep you on  =

 your toes.

 Luther

 On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:36 , Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 report back

 Luther Gulseth wrote:

 BUT, after sealing the valve cover baffle Thurs/Fri, I don't see  =

 anymore
 white smoke at idle, and it's hardly there at 3000+RPM.  THAT may have
 been most of my useage.  I can put 250 on this week and see if the
 comsumption is still high.

 On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 18:18:41 -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin kaleb at  =

 striplin.net
 wrote:








-- =

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,xxx kmi)
'82 300D  (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
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