Re: [MBZ] heat

2015-08-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Scott Sez:


During an earlier age, it was vey common for those with means (not the
working class) to summer up north and winter down south.


Edgewater  (IL)

Community Area 77, 7 miles N of the Chicago Loop. Although it was an 
elite nineteenthcentury suburb, Edgewater was not recognized as 
distinct when scholars laid out the community areas in the 1920s. 
Instead,Edgewater was merged into Uptown. In the 1970s, however, 
Edgewater's property owners persuaded the city of Chicago to make a 
rare change in its community area maps and recognize Edgewater as a 
separate entity.
Few people lived in the Edgewater area before the late nineteenth 
century. Scattered settlers farmed celery. Edgewater's residents were 
mostly German and Irish. Swedes gathered along Clark Street in an 
area they called Andersonville.

EDGEWATER ADVERTISEMENT, 1888

John Lewis Cochran (1857-1923) purchased land near Lake Michigan in 
the town of Lake View in 1886. There he developed a subdivision he 
advertised as Edgewater. He first built mansions on the lakefront 
for wealthy families and later had smaller houses built to the west. 
In contrast to other suburban developers, Cochran installed 
improvements such as sidewalks, sewers, and streetlights before 
customers moved in. Cochran also founded the Edgewater Light Company 
to ensure that his buyers could use the most modern conveniences. 
Cochran's final task was to provide adequate transportation to the 
area. He persuaded the Chicago, Milwaukee  St. Paul Railroad to open 
a stop on Bryn Mawr Avenue and was instrumental in the creation of 
the Northwestern Elevated Railroad Company, which in 1908 opened up a 
connection through to Howard Street. The availability of 
transportation encouraged the erection of apartment buildings, a 
development Cochran had not intended. This strip of common corridor 
buildings and residential hotels, concentrated between Winthrop and 
Kenmore, increased Edgewater's population density.
During the twentieth century, Edgewater solidified its status as one 
of the most prestigious residential areas in Chicago. In 1898, the 
exclusive Saddle and Cycle Club relocated to Foster Avenue, on the 
lakefront. The Edgewater Beach Hotel (1916) and the Edgewater Beach 
Apartments (1929), finished in sunrise yellow and sunset pink, served 
as local landmarks. Residential Edgewater's wealth reinforced the 
glamour of recreational Uptown.


Edgewater Gulf Hotel (Biloxi)
Surrounded by streets with names such as Kenmore, Bryn Mawr, The 
Edgewater area was developed by executives of Sears Roebuck Company 
from Chicago.  The well to do families would travel by train to the 
Gulf Coast to spend the Winters.


In 1870, the Louisville and Nashville Railroad was constructed 
through the southernmost section of Harrison County, Mississippi, 
connecting New Orleans, Louisiana, and Mobile, Alabama.[1] A northern 
transportation route into south Mississippi was provided by the Gulf 
and Ship Island Railroad at the turn of the 20th century.[2] These 
railroads provided an inexpensive means for moving passengers as well 
as goods, and opened south Mississippi to both industrial and 
recreational development.[3] Rapidly progressing lumber and seafood 
industries transformed the Mississippi Gulf Coast in the 1920s, and 
people arrived from throughout the United States to take advantage of 
the economic boom.[3] Northern tourists were attracted to the 
Mississippi Gulf Coast because of mild winters and cool sea breezes 
in summer, before the introduction of air conditioning. Besides the 
weather, other tourist attractions included seafood restaurants, 
swimming, golf, schooner races, sailing to offshore islands, and 
recreational fishing. During this period of economic expansion, grand 
hotels were constructed along the Mississippi Gulf Coast to 
accommodate businessmen, tourists, and transient workers.



Designed by architects Marshall and Fox and constructed in 1924 with 
400 guest rooms, the Edgewater Gulf Hotel was one of the largest on 
the Mississippi Gulf Coast.[14] Guests that arrived in south 
Mississippi by train could disembark at the rail station on the hotel 
grounds at Edgewater Park. Early advertisements promoted the hotel as 
an air conditioned, fireproofed structure, and the hotel's design 
allowed 95 percent of the rooms to have a view of the Mississippi 
Sound. In the formal dining room, guests ate on fine china atop heavy 
linen tablecloths with a view of the Gulf waters. The hotel complex 
was situated on 600 acres (243 hectares) that included gardens, a 
golf course, tennis courts, and a glass-enclosed swimming pool. The 
Edgewater Gulf weathered the Great Depression and attracted many 
post-World War II conventions which boosted its business. It retained 
its grandeur through the 1960s, but closed in 1970, unable to compete 
with newer hotels. In 1971, the grand hotel was demolished by 
implosion to make way for expansion of Edgewater Mall shopping 

[MBZ] Diesel smart

2015-08-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes


mercedes built diesel DIESEL SMART
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5176506160.html

via cPro Craigslist App
iOS: http://tinyurl.com/CL-iDevice
Android: http://tinyurl.com/CL-Android


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] The Battle of Palmdale

2015-08-17 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
I think all three missile types would guide on that target and their
warheads would function making multiple holes in the Hellcat. The unknown is
the vulnerability of the Hellcat.  I suspect the pilot was the largest
critical thing in that aircraft, which is not a factor here.  So it depends
on the size, location, and shielding of things like fuel lines/tanks,
control cables, etc. as well as fire suppression. Being air-cooled
eliminates a liquid cooling system, which is normally a big vulnerability.
Those radial air-cooled engines are reputed to function even after severe
battle damage but I don't know how factual that really is.  In reality, a
modern fighter would probably use the 20mm gun, mainly to ensure they were
shooting at the right thing (inside visual range), and that would be very
effective (especially with a non-maneuvering target).  Current 20mm ammo
functions (detonates) after it has passed several inches inside the skin of
the target.

In defense of the 2.75 FFAM, that shotgun cluster tactic was intended for
manned intercontinental bombers, which were quite large and slow in those
days.  A single hit, almost anywhere on the target, would ruin target crew's
day.

 -Original Message-
 From: M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes

 Yes, but how well could they do against an unmanned Hellcat drone?
 
 My money's on the Grumman.  ;D
 
 -MMM-


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Re: [MBZ] Starter/Alternator/Battery Problem 240D

2015-08-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Sounds like your starter is bad.

Confirm by checking for 12V on the small wire when the key is on the 
starter position.  If you have 12v to switch on the starter, and the 
battery and cables are good, then the starter is your problem.







Thanks for all your thoughts.  Further information:

Shorting the starter results in starter spinning without engaging flywheel.
Solenoid *thunk* without starter turning began after my son attempted
starting with the 50 amp momentary setting on my 10 amp battery charger.  Is
there a fuse or other component likely to have been affected by this event?

TIA again.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 5:02 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Rich Thomas
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starter/Alternator/Battery Problem 240D

Sounds like a bad battery

--R



On 8/15/15 7:47 PM, Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:

 So, the 1980 240D has strange symptoms:

 


 Intermittent battery draining and when battery is recharged to full,
 the ignition switch causes a loud click (the solenoid actuating) but
 then no engine turning.  Are these symptoms likely associated?  Is one
 causing the other?

 


 TIA for your thoughts,

 


 Greg

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Re: [MBZ] Feel your (break) petals

2015-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes


 On August 17, 2015 at 5:26 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 
 Just seemed like the most likely reason for a soft pedal.

Did you ever pour brake fluid and see that the container you poured
into has thousands of barely visible microbubbles in it?

I don't like to pedal bleed from a reservoir that had fluid added to
it in the past half hour. 

If I used a pressure bleeder, I'd fill the tank and give it time to
de-air itself before using it. 

Mitch. 

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Re: [MBZ] Starter/Alternator/Battery Problem 240D

2015-08-17 Thread Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes
Thanks for all your thoughts.  Further information:

Shorting the starter results in starter spinning without engaging flywheel.
Solenoid *thunk* without starter turning began after my son attempted
starting with the 50 amp momentary setting on my 10 amp battery charger.  Is
there a fuse or other component likely to have been affected by this event?

TIA again.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Thomas via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 5:02 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Rich Thomas
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starter/Alternator/Battery Problem 240D

Sounds like a bad battery

--R



On 8/15/15 7:47 PM, Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:
 So, the 1980 240D has strange symptoms:

   

 Intermittent battery draining and when battery is recharged to full, 
 the ignition switch causes a loud click (the solenoid actuating) but 
 then no engine turning.  Are these symptoms likely associated?  Is one 
 causing the other?

   

 TIA for your thoughts,

   

 Greg

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Re: [MBZ] Starter/Alternator/Battery Problem 240D

2015-08-17 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
First, load test the battery. A trip to any FLAPs should test it for free.
The load test will show if you have a battery with failed internal plates,
which will not then give you full amps to run starter.

If the battery loads tests good, then I suggest the starter solenoid
possibly welded it's self internally to stuck position which does not
engage the starter bendix, since the starter runs free when hooked directly
to 12 volts.

Start simple by having the battery load tested, fix that problem, if it is
one, and since the battery is self discharging, [if I read your post
correctly] it is suspect.

It is possible to have more than one problem arise at the same time,
however, such as the starter solenoid/bendix function and the battery
having a warped plate. [possible scenario with high charge rate and low
water, perhaps].

Hope this gives you some place to start.. Good luck.

Grant...

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 6:39 PM, Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Thanks for all your thoughts.  Further information:

 Shorting the starter results in starter spinning without engaging flywheel.
 Solenoid *thunk* without starter turning began after my son attempted
 starting with the 50 amp momentary setting on my 10 amp battery charger.
 Is
 there a fuse or other component likely to have been affected by this event?

 TIA again.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich
 Thomas via Mercedes
 Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 5:02 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Rich Thomas
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Starter/Alternator/Battery Problem 240D

 Sounds like a bad battery

 --R



 On 8/15/15 7:47 PM, Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:
  So, the 1980 240D has strange symptoms:
 
 
 
  Intermittent battery draining and when battery is recharged to full,
  the ignition switch causes a loud click (the solenoid actuating) but
  then no engine turning.  Are these symptoms likely associated?  Is one
  causing the other?
 
 
 
  TIA for your thoughts,
 
 
 
  Greg
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice we as a 
group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither. Your problem is that 
moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If you paint it the paint will 
fail rapidly, just the like the paint in my basement does and for the same 
reasons. If you put carpet it'll probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the 
best option to my mind is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with 
plywood. The moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges...
-Curt
  From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com 
 Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 10:56 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?
   
Hardy har har.  So should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?

On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

 Yes, it would disrupt the ecological cycle of mold growth in the carpet to
 close off it's water supply by sealing the concrete.

 Pretty sure that's how it happens in the humid NorthEast... ;))

 118°F here today.. moisture is not a problem..

 On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 8:14 PM, WILTON via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

  But, if any moisture comes up through it, ya want it to escape and
  evaporate immediately, instead of accumulating under impervious paint.
  Isn't that the reason he decided to use indoor/outdoor carpet?
 
  Wilton
 
  - Original Message - From: Dimitri via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 10:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?
 
 
  You can seal it if you like.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Aug 16, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I had a slab poured a year ago before erecting a shed.  Do I need to
  paint
  the concrete floor now?  Is this advisable if I'm getting an
  indoor/outdoor
  carpet?
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
I think I got my answer - thanks all.

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 11:12 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 The right way to do it is to tear up the concrete, put down a proper vapor
 barrier and put down a new floor.

 Then hire a pro put put an epoxy coating on it.

 After that, if you desire, you can glue the carpet over the top.

 Painting concrete floors only makes a mess for the next treatment after
 the paint peels.

 If you do it properly, (rip it out, vapor barrier and new concrete) you
 can have the concrete colored, stained,  finished to look like bricks,
 stones or whatever you like.  You can always cover stained concrete with  a
 rug.  You just can't get the rug to stick to peeling paint or DIY epoxy.

 The industrial epoxy is different stuff than the DIY epoxy


 Hardy har har.  So should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?


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Re: [MBZ] Gmail Question

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 15/08/2015 9:10 PM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

Greg wrote:

OK, so apparently my mail is now getting to the list, but
why does the list not send them back to me as it did when I
sent from another ISP?

'Cause Gmail is being helpful.  I guess they figure you
know what you sent.  It bugs me - but I've found no way
around it.

___


The messages you send do show in sent mail and in all mail

RB

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Re: [MBZ] heat

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
I am told that the descriptive equivalent of snow birds for the winter 
visitors, is summer chickens for the folks that live there but leave 
for the worst of the hot weather.

Maybe that is what you need to be?

RB

On 16/08/2015 10:07 AM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:

I don't have to explain AZ. 117 Friday,  115 yesterday. Today should be
about the same. Ugh.
I'm tired of these summers.  I have to start thinking about where I want to
spend summers when I retire.

Bob R




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Re: [MBZ] heat

2015-08-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

I don't have to explain AZ. 117 Friday,  115 yesterday. Today should be
about the same. Ugh.
I'm tired of these summers.  I have to start thinking about where I want to
spend summers when I retire.

Bob R


Bob,

Wisconsin, N of Rhinelander, N MN, and parts of 
canada are pretty nice in the summertime.  no 
need for air cond.  reasonable humidity levels 
most of the time.   Occasional need to throw a 
log or two in the woodstove when it is cold and 
rainy.  The MI UP and other areas north of 45º N 
lat.  are also tolerable without A/c.


Just think!  You could be a summer chicken 
Yooper!   Way better than being a FIB.


The northwoods are full of summer homes or cottages.


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Re: [MBZ] heat

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
A lot of the cottage owners out at the lake where we go are from the 
US but mostly within a good day's drive - Illinois, Indiana, Iowa etc.


RB

On 17/08/2015 11:55 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

So the. You would have a large influx of Arizonians and Floridians for the 
summer, much like we have a large influx of Canadians in the winter?

Dan, eh

Sent from my iPad


On Aug 17, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

I am told that the descriptive equivalent of snow birds for the winter visitors, is 
summer chickens for the folks that live there but leave for the worst of the hot 
weather.
Maybe that is what you need to be?

RB


On 16/08/2015 10:07 AM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:
I don't have to explain AZ. 117 Friday,  115 yesterday. Today should be
about the same. Ugh.
I'm tired of these summers.  I have to start thinking about where I want to
spend summers when I retire.

Bob R




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Re: [MBZ] heat

2015-08-17 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
So the. You would have a large influx of Arizonians and Floridians for the 
summer, much like we have a large influx of Canadians in the winter?

Dan, eh

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 17, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 I am told that the descriptive equivalent of snow birds for the winter 
 visitors, is summer chickens for the folks that live there but leave for 
 the worst of the hot weather.
 Maybe that is what you need to be?
 
 RB
 
 On 16/08/2015 10:07 AM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:
 I don't have to explain AZ. 117 Friday,  115 yesterday. Today should be
 about the same. Ugh.
 I'm tired of these summers.  I have to start thinking about where I want to
 spend summers when I retire.
 
 Bob R
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] The Battle of Palmdale

2015-08-17 Thread WILTON via Mercedes

And Joe Kennedy was killed by a B-24 drone in about '44.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The Battle of Palmdale



Mitch wrote:
 On August 16, 1956 Air Force fighters attacked a runaway Hellcat 
over southern

 California and missed.


Drone?
Radio controlled drone?
60 years ago?
...ah... the age of technology.
Too bad drones today are not as reliable, or something...
mao


When did Mitch write that?  I have not seen anything.

Actually, they flew RC B-29s through the 1946 atomic explosions at 
Bikini atoll.  (What are now called drones)


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Are you smarter than a 1912 8th grader?

2015-08-17 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

Here's a test given in 1912 to 8th grade students.  Lots of luck.

Pointing out the miserable failure of the goobermnt skools


Pointing out what would happen to college if it, too, were made
automatic, if not mandatory.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
The right way to do it is to tear up the concrete, put down a proper 
vapor barrier and put down a new floor.


Then hire a pro put put an epoxy coating on it.

After that, if you desire, you can glue the carpet over the top.

Painting concrete floors only makes a mess for the next treatment 
after the paint peels.


If you do it properly, (rip it out, vapor barrier and new concrete) 
you can have the concrete colored, stained,  finished to look like 
bricks, stones or whatever you like.  You can always cover stained 
concrete with  a rug.  You just can't get the rug to stick to peeling 
paint or DIY epoxy.


The industrial epoxy is different stuff than the DIY epoxy



Hardy har har.  So should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Are you smarter than a 1912 8th grader?

2015-08-17 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
So who has actually sat down and taken the test w/o cheating?

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 11:06 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Here's a test given in 1912 to 8th grade students.  Lots of luck.

 Pointing out the miserable failure of the goobermnt skools


 Pointing out what would happen to college if it, too, were made
 automatic, if not mandatory.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread WILTON via Mercedes
No paint; install the I/O carpet and enjoy it.  'Thought that was decided 
months ago.

I have spoken.   ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?



Hardy har har.  So should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?

On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com

wrote:


Yes, it would disrupt the ecological cycle of mold growth in the carpet 
to

close off it's water supply by sealing the concrete.

Pretty sure that's how it happens in the humid NorthEast... ;))

118°F here today.. moisture is not a problem..

On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 8:14 PM, WILTON via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 But, if any moisture comes up through it, ya want it to escape and
 evaporate immediately, instead of accumulating under impervious paint.
 Isn't that the reason he decided to use indoor/outdoor carpet?

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Dimitri via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com
 Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 10:53 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?


 You can seal it if you like.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 16, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I had a slab poured a year ago before erecting a shed.  Do I need to
 paint
 the concrete floor now?  Is this advisable if I'm getting an
 indoor/outdoor
 carpet?
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
Would likely work well in the shed too.

RB

On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice we as a 
group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither. Your problem is that 
moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If you paint it the paint will 
fail rapidly, just the like the paint in my basement does and for the same 
reasons. If you put carpet it'll probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the 
best option to my mind is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with 
plywood. The moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges...
-Curt
   From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
  Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 10:56 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

Hardy har har.  So should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?


On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

wrote:
Yes, it would disrupt the ecological cycle of mold growth in the carpet to
close off it's water supply by sealing the concrete.

Pretty sure that's how it happens in the humid NorthEast... ;))

118°F here today.. moisture is not a problem..

On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 8:14 PM, WILTON via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:


But, if any moisture comes up through it, ya want it to escape and
evaporate immediately, instead of accumulating under impervious paint.
Isn't that the reason he decided to use indoor/outdoor carpet?

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Dimitri via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?


You can seal it if you like.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 16, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 

mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

I had a slab poured a year ago before erecting a shed.  Do I need to
paint
the concrete floor now?  Is this advisable if I'm getting an
indoor/outdoor
carpet?
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 11:34:36 -0500 Randy Bennell via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
 Would likely work well in the shed too.

Also try,

http://www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm

RadonSeal® has been the leading concrete sealer for commercial and
residential projects since late 1990's. It is a reactive internal
sealer for poured concrete, concrete blocks, mortar, and other
cementitious materials.

RadonSeal penetrates deep into concrete (up to 6 depending on
porosity), reacts, expands inside the pores, and cures as a silicate
mineral. Once cured, it will seal your concrete permanently against
water seepage, efflorescence, water vapor, and even radon gas.

Unlike common sealers (coatings) and waterproofing paints sold in big
box stores, RadonSeal will never peel or wear away. It cannot be
pushed out from the pores regardless of hydrostatic pressure! The
internal seal becomes integral to the concrete itself – there is never
a need to re-apply the sealer again! RadonSeal will make your concrete
denser and stronger - it is like injecting more cement into the
concrete.


Craig


 RB
 
 On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
  IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice
  we as a group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither.
  Your problem is that moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If
  you paint it the paint will fail rapidly, just the like the paint in
  my basement does and for the same reasons. If you put carpet it'll
  probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the best option to my mind
  is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with plywood. The
  moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges... -Curt
  From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To:
  Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Andrew
  Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015
  10:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint? Hardy har har.  So
  should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?
 
  On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
  wrote:
  Yes, it would disrupt the ecological cycle of mold growth in the
  carpet to close off it's water supply by sealing the concrete.
 
  Pretty sure that's how it happens in the humid NorthEast... ;))
 
  118°F here today.. moisture is not a problem..
 
  On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 8:14 PM, WILTON via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
  wrote:
 
  But, if any moisture comes up through it, ya want it to escape and
  evaporate immediately, instead of accumulating under impervious
  paint. Isn't that the reason he decided to use indoor/outdoor
  carpet?
 
  Wilton
 
  - Original Message - From: Dimitri via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 10:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?
 
 
  You can seal it if you like.
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Aug 16, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I had a slab poured a year ago before erecting a shed.  Do I need
  to paint
  the concrete floor now?  Is this advisable if I'm getting an
  indoor/outdoor
  carpet?
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  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Why are crappy undesirable cars always in great shape

2015-08-17 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes
The only thing the Solex 4A1 can do well is ingest a large moth with
aplomb. My father was trying (in vain) to get his 280C working one evening
in SoCal ca. 1982 or so when the aforementioned moth came over, attracted
by the worklight.   THWOOOP!  A few seconds later, a little cloud of moth
scales came out the exhaust...

-MMM-
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Re: [MBZ] The Battle of Palmdale

2015-08-17 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes
Yes, but how well could they do against an unmanned Hellcat drone?

My money's on the Grumman.  ;D

-MMM-

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:11 AM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Current F-14/15/16/18 US fighters have internal 20mm guns plus three types
 of guided air-to-air missiles:  AIM-9 short-range heat-seeking missiles,
 AIM-7 long-range semi-active radar-guided missiles, and AMRAAM medium-range
 multi-mode radar/inertial missiles.  There are several variants of each of
 these and each type aircraft has multiple allowable load configurations.
 All current air-to-air missiles are orders-of magnitude more capable than
 any unguided 2.75 incher.

  -Original Message-
  From: Max  Dillon via Mercedes
  Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 12:33 AM
 
  I think all current fighters have both guns and missiles?  I know the
 F/A-18 has
  both.
 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Seems like snake oil to me. I don't see stuff coming out of a garden sprayer 
somehow migrating 6 into existing concrete. I also don't see it being like 
adding more cement to concrete. Big bold claims like that usually make me 
question...
-Curt
  From: Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com 
 Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 3:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?
   
We could have used that stuff in the basement of our home in Indiana. When we 
did a radon test, it scored 9 PCI/L.

4 is considered the minimum threshold for remediation.

Dan no longer glowing in the dark

Sent from my iPad



 On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:01 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 11:34:36 -0500 Randy Bennell via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
 Would likely work well in the shed too.
 
 Also try,
 
 http://www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm
 
    RadonSeal® has been the leading concrete sealer for commercial and
    residential projects since late 1990's. It is a reactive internal
    sealer for poured concrete, concrete blocks, mortar, and other
    cementitious materials.
 
    RadonSeal penetrates deep into concrete (up to 6 depending on
    porosity), reacts, expands inside the pores, and cures as a silicate
    mineral. Once cured, it will seal your concrete permanently against
    water seepage, efflorescence, water vapor, and even radon gas.
 
    Unlike common sealers (coatings) and waterproofing paints sold in big
    box stores, RadonSeal will never peel or wear away. It cannot be
    pushed out from the pores regardless of hydrostatic pressure! The
    internal seal becomes integral to the concrete itself – there is never
    a need to re-apply the sealer again! RadonSeal will make your concrete
    denser and stronger - it is like injecting more cement into the
    concrete.
 
 
 Craig
 
 
 RB
 
 On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
 IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice
 we as a group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither.
 Your problem is that moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If
 you paint it the paint will fail rapidly, just the like the paint in
 my basement does and for the same reasons. If you put carpet it'll
 probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the best option to my mind
 is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with plywood. The
 moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges... -Curt
 From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To:
 Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Andrew
 Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015
 10:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint? Hardy har har.  So
 should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?
 
 On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes

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[MBZ] Feel your (break) petals

2015-08-17 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Last night I installed new Akebono Ultra Premium ceramic pads (part#
EUR423) in my '87 300TD.  Made in USA, and about $46 via Amazon.

Two problems.  Well, maybe only one can be attributed to the new pads.

The MB pad wear sensors are supposed to clip into holes in the pads, but
the holes are slightly too large and the sensors flop around a bit,  As
long as they don't fall out, I think they'll work fine, but they don't fit
as well as in the OE or OEM pads.

The pedal feel was nice and firm with Pagid normal pads, but now the
pedal feel is toward the squishy end.  I blame the new pads.  I also
changed the front brake hoses at the same time, so perhaps the new ATE
hoses are to blame or are part of the problem.  They are a 129 part number
now.
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
We could have used that stuff in the basement of our home in Indiana. When we 
did a radon test, it scored 9 PCI/L.

4 is considered the minimum threshold for remediation.

Dan no longer glowing in the dark

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:01 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 11:34:36 -0500 Randy Bennell via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
 Would likely work well in the shed too.
 
 Also try,
 
 http://www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm
 
RadonSeal® has been the leading concrete sealer for commercial and
residential projects since late 1990's. It is a reactive internal
sealer for poured concrete, concrete blocks, mortar, and other
cementitious materials.
 
RadonSeal penetrates deep into concrete (up to 6 depending on
porosity), reacts, expands inside the pores, and cures as a silicate
mineral. Once cured, it will seal your concrete permanently against
water seepage, efflorescence, water vapor, and even radon gas.
 
Unlike common sealers (coatings) and waterproofing paints sold in big
box stores, RadonSeal will never peel or wear away. It cannot be
pushed out from the pores regardless of hydrostatic pressure! The
internal seal becomes integral to the concrete itself – there is never
a need to re-apply the sealer again! RadonSeal will make your concrete
denser and stronger - it is like injecting more cement into the
concrete.
 
 
 Craig
 
 
 RB
 
 On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
 IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice
 we as a group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither.
 Your problem is that moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If
 you paint it the paint will fail rapidly, just the like the paint in
 my basement does and for the same reasons. If you put carpet it'll
 probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the best option to my mind
 is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with plywood. The
 moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges... -Curt
 From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To:
 Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Andrew
 Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015
 10:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint? Hardy har har.  So
 should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?
 
 On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Thanks !   The radon seal material is what I have been looking for to use
on my new shop floor.

I'll be giving them a call..

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:01 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 11:34:36 -0500 Randy Bennell via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
  Would likely work well in the shed too.

 Also try,

 http://www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm

 RadonSeal® has been the leading concrete sealer for commercial and
 residential projects since late 1990's. It is a reactive internal
 sealer for poured concrete, concrete blocks, mortar, and other
 cementitious materials.

 RadonSeal penetrates deep into concrete (up to 6 depending on
 porosity), reacts, expands inside the pores, and cures as a silicate
 mineral. Once cured, it will seal your concrete permanently against
 water seepage, efflorescence, water vapor, and even radon gas.

 Unlike common sealers (coatings) and waterproofing paints sold in big
 box stores, RadonSeal will never peel or wear away. It cannot be
 pushed out from the pores regardless of hydrostatic pressure! The
 internal seal becomes integral to the concrete itself – there is never
 a need to re-apply the sealer again! RadonSeal will make your concrete
 denser and stronger - it is like injecting more cement into the
 concrete.


 Craig


  RB
 
  On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
   IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice
   we as a group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither.
   Your problem is that moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If
   you paint it the paint will fail rapidly, just the like the paint in
   my basement does and for the same reasons. If you put carpet it'll
   probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the best option to my mind
   is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with plywood. The
   moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges... -Curt
   From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To:
   Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Andrew
   Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015
   10:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint? Hardy har har.  So
   should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?
  
   On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
   mercedes@okiebenz.com
   wrote:
   Yes, it would disrupt the ecological cycle of mold growth in the
   carpet to close off it's water supply by sealing the concrete.
  
   Pretty sure that's how it happens in the humid NorthEast... ;))
  
   118°F here today.. moisture is not a problem..
  
   On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 8:14 PM, WILTON via Mercedes 
   mercedes@okiebenz.com
   wrote:
  
   But, if any moisture comes up through it, ya want it to escape and
   evaporate immediately, instead of accumulating under impervious
   paint. Isn't that the reason he decided to use indoor/outdoor
   carpet?
  
   Wilton
  
   - Original Message - From: Dimitri via Mercedes 
   mercedes@okiebenz.com
   To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com
   Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 10:53 PM
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?
  
  
   You can seal it if you like.
   Sent from my iPhone
  
   On Aug 16, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
   mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
  
   I had a slab poured a year ago before erecting a shed.  Do I need
   to paint
   the concrete floor now?  Is this advisable if I'm getting an
   indoor/outdoor
   carpet?
   ___
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Well... logic says, if water can migrate up, why can't a material with the
right surface tension migrate down?

Concrete is porous not solid.. it expands and contracts with temperature
changes.

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:35 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Seems like snake oil to me. I don't see stuff coming out of a garden
 sprayer somehow migrating 6 into existing concrete. I also don't see it
 being like adding more cement to concrete. Big bold claims like that
 usually make me question...
 -Curt
   From: Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
  Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 3:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

 We could have used that stuff in the basement of our home in Indiana. When
 we did a radon test, it scored 9 PCI/L.

 4 is considered the minimum threshold for remediation.

 Dan no longer glowing in the dark

 Sent from my iPad



  On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:01 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:
 
  On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 11:34:36 -0500 Randy Bennell via Mercedes
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
  Would likely work well in the shed too.
 
  Also try,
 
  http://www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm
 
 RadonSeal® has been the leading concrete sealer for commercial and
 residential projects since late 1990's. It is a reactive internal
 sealer for poured concrete, concrete blocks, mortar, and other
 cementitious materials.
 
 RadonSeal penetrates deep into concrete (up to 6 depending on
 porosity), reacts, expands inside the pores, and cures as a silicate
 mineral. Once cured, it will seal your concrete permanently against
 water seepage, efflorescence, water vapor, and even radon gas.
 
 Unlike common sealers (coatings) and waterproofing paints sold in big
 box stores, RadonSeal will never peel or wear away. It cannot be
 pushed out from the pores regardless of hydrostatic pressure! The
 internal seal becomes integral to the concrete itself – there is never
 a need to re-apply the sealer again! RadonSeal will make your concrete
 denser and stronger - it is like injecting more cement into the
 concrete.
 
 
  Craig
 
 
  RB
 
  On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
  IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice
  we as a group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither.
  Your problem is that moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If
  you paint it the paint will fail rapidly, just the like the paint in
  my basement does and for the same reasons. If you put carpet it'll
  probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the best option to my mind
  is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with plywood. The
  moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges... -Curt
  From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To:
  Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Andrew
  Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015
  10:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint? Hardy har har.  So
  should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?
 
  On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes

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Re: [MBZ] Feel your (break) petals

2015-08-17 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
The wear sensors should clip into the side of the pad backing plates. Being 
placed in the holes doesn't anchor or hold them in place.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:35 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Last night I installed new Akebono Ultra Premium ceramic pads (part#
 EUR423) in my '87 300TD.  Made in USA, and about $46 via Amazon.
 
 Two problems.  Well, maybe only one can be attributed to the new pads.
 
 The MB pad wear sensors are supposed to clip into holes in the pads, but
 the holes are slightly too large and the sensors flop around a bit,  As
 long as they don't fall out, I think they'll work fine, but they don't fit
 as well as in the OE or OEM pads.
 
 The pedal feel was nice and firm with Pagid normal pads, but now the
 pedal feel is toward the squishy end.  I blame the new pads.  I also
 changed the front brake hoses at the same time, so perhaps the new ATE
 hoses are to blame or are part of the problem.  They are a 129 part number
 now.
 -
 Max
 Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
I am with Curt on this one. Sounds too good to be true, which means it 
usually is such.


RB

On 17/08/2015 2:35 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Seems like snake oil to me. I don't see stuff coming out of a garden sprayer somehow migrating 
6 into existing concrete. I also don't see it being like adding more cement to 
concrete. Big bold claims like that usually make me question...
-Curt
   From: Dan Penoff via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
  Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 3:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

We could have used that stuff in the basement of our home in Indiana. When we did a radon test, it scored 9 PCI/L.


4 is considered the minimum threshold for remediation.

Dan no longer glowing in the dark

Sent from my iPad




On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:01 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

On Mon, 17 Aug 2015 11:34:36 -0500 Randy Bennell via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


These work well in basements. http://www.dricore.com/en/index.aspx
Would likely work well in the shed too.

Also try,

http://www.radonseal.com/radonseal-mitigation.htm

 RadonSeal® has been the leading concrete sealer for commercial and
 residential projects since late 1990's. It is a reactive internal
 sealer for poured concrete, concrete blocks, mortar, and other
 cementitious materials.

 RadonSeal penetrates deep into concrete (up to 6 depending on
 porosity), reacts, expands inside the pores, and cures as a silicate
 mineral. Once cured, it will seal your concrete permanently against
 water seepage, efflorescence, water vapor, and even radon gas.

 Unlike common sealers (coatings) and waterproofing paints sold in big
 box stores, RadonSeal will never peel or wear away. It cannot be
 pushed out from the pores regardless of hydrostatic pressure! The
 internal seal becomes integral to the concrete itself – there is never
 a need to re-apply the sealer again! RadonSeal will make your concrete
 denser and stronger - it is like injecting more cement into the
 concrete.


Craig



RB


On 17/08/2015 10:03 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
IIRC you didn't put a vapor barrier under the concrete so the advice
we as a group gave you last year was a pretty resounding neither.
Your problem is that moisture WILL creep up through the concrete. If
you paint it the paint will fail rapidly, just the like the paint in
my basement does and for the same reasons. If you put carpet it'll
probably mold like Grant suggests.Probably the best option to my mind
is to cover the floor with plastic and deck it with plywood. The
moisture will migrate along the plastic and out the edges... -Curt
From: Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To:
Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Andrew
Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015
10:56 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint? Hardy har har.  So
should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?

On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes

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Re: [MBZ] Feel your (break) petals

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes


  


The pedal feel was nice and firm with Pagid normal pads, but now the
pedal feel is toward the squishy end.  I blame the new pads.  I also
changed the front brake hoses at the same time, so perhaps the new ATE
hoses are to blame or are part of the problem.
-
Max



Bleed them again??

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Feel your (break) petals

2015-08-17 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

Just seemed like the most likely reason for a soft pedal.

RB

On 17/08/2015 3:35 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Randy, I'm using a Power Bleeder which pressurizes the MC reservoir and
pushes fluid at the same time.  This quickly and easily pushes all the air
out via the bleeder bolt.  I would be surprised if there is still any air
in the system.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


Bleed them again??

RB







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Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?

2015-08-17 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
Hardy har har.  So should I paint the floor OR cover it with I/O carpet?

On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 11:21 PM, G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

 Yes, it would disrupt the ecological cycle of mold growth in the carpet to
 close off it's water supply by sealing the concrete.

 Pretty sure that's how it happens in the humid NorthEast... ;))

 118°F here today.. moisture is not a problem..

 On Sun, Aug 16, 2015 at 8:14 PM, WILTON via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

  But, if any moisture comes up through it, ya want it to escape and
  evaporate immediately, instead of accumulating under impervious paint.
  Isn't that the reason he decided to use indoor/outdoor carpet?
 
  Wilton
 
  - Original Message - From: Dimitri via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Cc: Dimitri dsereta...@yahoo.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 10:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Concrete paint?
 
 
  You can seal it if you like.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Aug 16, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I had a slab poured a year ago before erecting a shed.  Do I need to
  paint
  the concrete floor now?  Is this advisable if I'm getting an
  indoor/outdoor
  carpet?
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