Re: [MBZ] Ammeter installation wire size

2011-01-24 Thread John Robbins

On 1/22/2011 9:48 PM, OK Don wrote:

Also - I measured current with the ignition switch off - it showed periodic
(q 2-3 second) drains of 200 to 250 mA. that didn't last but a fraction of a
second.


That's where your problem is.  Start pulling fuses until that stops and 
go from there!


John

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Re: [MBZ] 94 S500 trade

2010-10-17 Thread John Robbins

On 10/17/2010 10:23 AM, Bob Rentfro wrote:

not to hijack your thread, but what do you suggest I do with my car?
Remember, I live in a neighborhood with an HOAI can't be parting it out
in the frount yard.


Put it on craigslist for $100?

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Re: [MBZ] 05 320CDI

2010-09-09 Thread John Robbins

On 9/9/2010 9:08 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

To my mind that is every bit as esthetically appealing as a squashed toad.


I agree! However, I was driven around in one when I was at a dealership 
a while back, and they are HUGE inside.  HUGE I tell ya!


John

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Re: [MBZ] 05 320CDI

2010-09-09 Thread John Robbins

On 9/9/2010 9:53 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Like a Chrysler minivan?


Probably.

John

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Re: [MBZ] When did R134a start?

2010-07-16 Thread John Robbins

On 7/16/2010 1:50 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

What's the earliest year that MB used R134A refrigerant from the
factory for north america?  Were there any issues early that were
resolved in later years?


My old '92 300D had r134 from the factory.  No issues that I know of!


John

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[MBZ] 500SE For Sale

2010-07-07 Thread John Robbins
My brother bought Kaleb's Uncle's 500SE.  We've played around with it 
for a little bit, but we've decided to get rid of it.  Greg went and 
joined the Navy, and I need to get rid of the amount of stuff I have 
in case I move across country.


1983 500SE Euro, green on green, cloth seats, manual climate control

Good: engine runs great

Bad: Lots of rust, exhaust is basically toast, hard brake line to the 
rear of car is rusted out (car stops well enough), and lots of other 
little things.


$400

We drove it from Oklahoma to Starkville, MS (current location of car) in 
its current condition FWIW (yes, we're crazy).


John

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Re: [MBZ] Interpreting compression test results for W123 turbodiesel engine

2010-07-06 Thread John Robbins

On 7/6/2010 2:33 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

Cylinder

 1- 220-225

2- 220
3- 200
4- 210
5- 230



My mechanic says the readings are way too low to allow the engine to start
in cold temps due to worn rings.  He says a new engine rates at 400, and
that 275 is the absolute limit.  Any comments?


I don't remember exactly what the limits are, but 200 sounds about right 
for a totally worn out engine.  Here are the numbers for my 617 with 
296k on it.  It has a horrible idle (you'll see why).


1 - 300
2 - 280
3 - 290
4 - 260
5 - 260

I measured those numbers twice, each time with a fresh battery, first 
time starting with cylinder #1, second time starting with cylinder #5. 
Numbers didn't change, although cranking speed was definitely slower at 
the end of each test.


My $.02 is that the engine is worn out.

John

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Re: [MBZ] Interpreting compression test results for W123 turbodiesel engine

2010-07-06 Thread John Robbins

On 7/6/2010 3:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

How would one confirm leaky testing?


Don't risk it and assume junk engine or stuck rings?

John

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[MBZ] OT: Soo.... Anybody need or know of someone who's hiring engineers?

2010-07-01 Thread John Robbins

Just found out I have until August 15th.  Yay.

John

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Soo.... Anybody need or know of someone who's hiring engineers?

2010-07-01 Thread John Robbins
Computer Engineer

I've only been working full time for 3 years now, but I have five semesters of 
co-op and about two years of undergrad research. So I don't have a significant 
amount of specialization at the moment, but I like to think I'm not the typical 
fresh college grad either. 

I've worked with embedded systems for the most part. Code (mostly), schematics, 
PCB layout, etc. Lately I've been working with MATLAB for power electronics 
simulation and national instruments for data acquisition. 

I need to check and see if I qualify to take the PE exam. I'm pretty sure I 
have my 4 years now. :)

John

On Jul 1, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 
 
 What kind?
 There's a lot of difference between an EE specializing in generation, and 
 transmission, and a chip designer, and between them and a Civil Eng, for 
 example.
 Quality Engineer,
 Manufacturing Engineer
 Industrial Engineer
 Mechanical Engineer
 Aerospace Engineer
 Operating Engineer
 Certified P.E
 Construction engineer
 Food Process engineer
 Etc
 
 
 
 
 
 Just found out I have until August 15th.  Yay.
 
 John
 
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Re: [MBZ] W210 spring hangars

2010-06-25 Thread John Robbins

On 6/24/2010 6:42 PM, John Reames wrote:

Gotta hate 'em.

(sitting in a parking lot... When I needed to turn the wheel 100
degrees to go straight, I decided to call for a tow... At that point
inspection finally revealed a separation at the back of the
hangars...)


Ouch  You going to get it repaired?

John

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Re: [MBZ] Hard start problem returns

2010-06-11 Thread John Robbins

On 6/11/2010 1:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

I only use OE or OEM radiator hoses. They are still noticeably better
than any third party hoses.


I only use OE (with the star on it, came from a dealership) coolant 
hoses.  I have noticed the ones with the star on it are better than the 
OEM ones...  Not on every hose, but enough that I'm going OE from now on.


John

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Re: [MBZ] The Next installement, where here

2010-06-07 Thread John Robbins

On 6/7/2010 10:31 AM, R A Bennell wrote:

I think so. I have not been there in many years but I recall a real German WWII 
submarine that one can go through.
Also a coal mine. Go to the top floor and take the mine elevator down into the 
basement or whatever and it is a
replica of an old coal mine. Lots of other things like steam locomotives etc.


I was there within the past year, and all the above are still there. 
Plenty of stuff there for people of any age... I highly recommend it as 
well!


John

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Re: [MBZ] Hunting 124 and testing -

2010-04-26 Thread John Robbins

On 4/25/2010 6:55 PM, OK Don wrote:

Not yet - just finished the job an hour ago.


I would get it aligned before worrying about anything else. An alignment 
can make a HUGE difference on these cars.  Be sure to get it aligned at 
an MB dealer unless you know of a shop that can do proper 4 wheel 
alignments.


John

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Re: [MBZ] OT YOW!!!

2010-04-08 Thread John Robbins

On 4/8/2010 10:08 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

And don't forget 2 of pine pollen on the cars every morning.


Ugh Don't remind me!

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread John Robbins

On 4/5/2010 9:09 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.


Are they legit OEM parts or no-name brand?

John

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Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement

2010-04-05 Thread John Robbins

On 4/5/2010 9:42 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

They are legit no name brand. I have sold hundreds of them with no
issues. $199.00 versus $510.76 Lemforder.


Very, very tempting.  Will need to look into Sportline upgrades, which 
are obviously not going to be covered by your special. ;) I think the 
Sportline stuff is only the front/rear subframe mounts.


John


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Re: [MBZ] Air in Fuel line?

2010-03-06 Thread John Robbins

On 3/5/2010 6:44 PM, B Dike wrote:

The IP governor diaphragm leaks...it doesn' t hold a vacuum like the
other IP.  So I assume the torn diaphragm is causing the air leak and
starting problem.


An air leak sounds reasonable for what you've talked about, but the 
shutoff vacuum actuator isn't the cause of it.  A while ago somebody on 
the list ended up with the two vacuum lines to the key switch reversed, 
and it caused all kinds of random problems.  For troubleshooting, try 
disconnecting the vacuum line to the shutoff actuator, and see what happens.


G'luck!
John

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Re: [MBZ] 40k miles of CDI Ownership

2010-02-25 Thread John Robbins

On 2/25/2010 6:10 AM, LarryT wrote:

So far these engines are proven trouble free - correct? Seems like every
new model that comes out leaves the factory with some built in problems
- hopefully none crop up.


Yep. Trouble free for everyone else from what I've heard.  Keep in mind 
that the 61x and 60x motors have their share of features


I hope none crop up as well!!

John

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Re: [MBZ] 40k miles of CDI Ownership

2010-02-21 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:

How much of a difference did you notice with new Motor Mounts?


HUGE  One of them failed completely... As in, it fell apart into two 
pieces when I took it out.  It was in needs to be replaced condition 
for about 10k miles, but when it started to go bad, it took about a week 
to fail completely. The car was undriveable once it failed.  I think the 
engine was basically bouncing off the chassis at that point.


John

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Re: [MBZ] 124, 126 rear subframe

2010-02-21 Thread John Robbins

Peter Frederick wrote:

Check the frame bushings on the rear anti-sway bar too -- when they
get old, hard, and shrink, the bar rattles in them.


I can attest to this as well!  If they get really bad it almost sounds
like metal on metal rattling.

John

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Re: [MBZ] Aux coolant pump teardown pictures.

2010-02-18 Thread John Robbins

On 2/17/2010 9:25 AM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Still not sure if I can save it, but beats the $100+ for a new one that's
got a plastic housing...


Rusty has one on his website for $88 for your model.  For my 1987 300TD 
it is $55.  The only difference is the 78's electrical connector is on a 
pigtail and the 87 is on the actual pump.


I don't know how much time and money it will take to make an impeller... 
but I'd either find a used one or just get one of the new ones.  Then 
again, I've got other car projects I want to spend my time on.  FWIW, I 
just bought three of those pumps for $10 each.  So used ones are 
definitely out there.


John

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Re: [MBZ] what's a CDI worth these days

2010-02-16 Thread John Robbins

On 2/16/2010 3:09 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Seemslike a lot of miles for $22k:
http://jxn.craigslist.org/ctd/1587657336.html


Unless the CDI market has recovered from the last time I looked (when 
the stock market went sour), it's too expensive.  If it had ventilated 
seats, Sirius, HID headlights, leather, etc, etc. then it might be worth 
that.  Not as it is equipped though.  IMO anyway...


John

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[MBZ] 40k miles of CDI Ownership

2010-02-16 Thread John Robbins
Bought the CDI with 67k in April of 2008, and I'm now up to 107k!  This 
year I didn't put as many miles on it as I did last year, but that's 
changed since I just recently started dating a gal in Tuscaloosa (1.5 
drive).  With a weeknight and weekend visit that's 350 miles a week... 
It's amazing what girls can get us guys to do ;)


So far everything has been working fantastic with only minimal work 
needing to be done.  The car is still a blast to drive, and I enjoy 
every minute of it.


The only things I've replaced that weren't standard maintenance or 
something you'd expected to go out include:

--Coolant thermostat
--Auxiliary battery
--Motor mounts
--Parking brake ratcheting mechanism


http://picasaweb.google.com/TheTymbrymi/My2005E320CDI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6yA_BlWOyg

Happy motoring!
John

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Re: [MBZ] 40k miles of CDI Ownership

2010-02-16 Thread John Robbins

On 2/16/2010 3:39 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

For some reason, I was thinking the V6 came out in 2006.
I take it the original tires were H-rated?


IIRC, the V6 came out in 2007.  I believe so.  That's what I have on 
there now at least!


John

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Re: [MBZ] 40k miles of CDI Ownership

2010-02-16 Thread John Robbins

On 2/16/2010 3:48 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

Is that speedo some kind of German redundant display thing, just in case
one of them fails to work?


There are a bunch of other things you can display there, but I put it to 
speedo for the video just to make things easier to read for an exact 
number.  After all, over half the speedometer is illegal to use in the 
USA. ;)  See link for what I usually keep it at.


http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QzUIDuVtCzaV2ObcxoLmcw

John

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Re: [MBZ] Jack points

2010-02-01 Thread John Robbins
If the car has the jack stand pads I use the factory jack to raise the 
car, and place the jack stand underneath the pad.  I actually like the 
factory jack... so long as there are jack stands involved as well!!


My CDI doesn't have the normal jack holes, and I haven't found a good 
way to jack it up yet.


John

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Re: [MBZ] Jack points

2010-02-01 Thread John Robbins

On 2/1/2010 11:30 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

I would be afraid of using the factory jack if I lived in a place
where the roads get salted---I've seen pictures of rust that started
in the back of the jack hole and worked its way out, rotting the sill.


If you use the jack hole and it screws up because of rust, you'd either 
not get the car up onto the jackstands.  I would never get under the car 
with just the factory jack


John

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Re: [MBZ] OT: The ongoing saga

2010-01-27 Thread John Robbins

Curt, I hope all goes well and that you have a speedy recovery!!!

On 1/27/2010 3:41 AM, Peter T. Arnold wrote:

What is to be learned is that you do have cardiac disease, it is
treatable, it will comeback. Your mission is to take note and not deny
it when it returns. That will tend to keep further bad things from
happening.


Nicely said.

John

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Re: [MBZ] Danish ad with scantily dressed ladies

2010-01-27 Thread John Robbins

On 1/26/2010 10:24 PM, WILTON wrote:

Not very well!


x2!

John

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[MBZ] 1989 300TDT with 4 Matic

2010-01-26 Thread John Robbins
Saw this for sale on another list  really pricey, but it is pretty 
rare.  I didn't even know this was possible with the OM603.


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1362534-1989-300tdt-4matic-wagon-sale.html

John

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Re: [MBZ] looking at '87 300D

2010-01-22 Thread John Robbins

On 1/22/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

terrible 17 head.


The #14 is the bad one  #17 is good.

John

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[MBZ] 5% discount at Rock Auto

2010-01-17 Thread John Robbins

Thought some of you might like this for your non-MB purchases...

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/370308/

John

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Re: [MBZ] pop-off

2010-01-08 Thread John Robbins

On 1/8/2010 3:00 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

That qualifies as all over the place and I know for a fact that my
long-gone 123's injectors were evenly matched.


5 bar is the MB specified tolerance

John

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[MBZ] CDI Got stoned -- Insurance Question

2010-01-06 Thread John Robbins
Some stupid kids decided it would be fun to throw rocks at my CDI...  So 
now there is a fist sized dent in the door, and some gouges inside the 
dent.  Kids got away before my brother (who was borrowing the car) could 
catch them.


So now I get to make a comprehensive claim! Yay! *rolls eyes*

The claims guy says I take it to the local adjuster this Thursday, 
they'll put a price on the damage, and cut me a check.  If the body shop 
I take it to disagrees on the price, they are supposed to take it up 
with the insurance.  I don't know if I want them to write me a check on 
Thursday...  I just worry it won't be enough (I'm probably going to need 
a new door), and then I'm going to get screwed over.


The insurance company is Progressive.

Also, could I take the money, and find a used door?

Thanks!!
John

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Re: [MBZ] CDI Got stoned -- Insurance Question

2010-01-06 Thread John Robbins

On 1/6/2010 9:41 AM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

How big was this rock? Did it have a name as in Plymouth Rock?


There is a fist sized dent... it wasn't some little itty bitty rock.


Need a new door? Was the one on the car 'new'? You expectations are
too high, you are supposed to be 'made whole', not rich


Uhhh... it didn't have a dent in it.  To be 'made whole' I don't want a
bunch of bondo 1.5 thick on the car.

BTW, I don't want to be made rich, I was just curious about the used 
door thing.  The nearest dealer is two hours away, and I really don't 
want to fool with getting the car there and back for the body work.


John

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Re: [MBZ] CDI Got stoned -- Insurance Question

2010-01-06 Thread John Robbins

On 1/6/2010 10:20 AM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

A GOOD body shop would not put a bunch of bondo on your door. BTW,
the factory uses such leveling components during their production
also.


The problem if finding a good shop!  Yep, they just don't slop it on as 
thick as this dent ;)



That all being said, what concerns me in these issues is that the tin
knocker will invertiblely use a torch to shrink the stretched metal..
This burns the rust protection of the inside of the skin. I require
that I inspect the 'blind' side to see that it was properly primed
and painted. Never had a GOOD body shop complain.


Excellent info!  Thanks!

John

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Re: [MBZ] your dent

2010-01-06 Thread John Robbins

On 1/6/2010 2:38 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

Look, you are going about this bass-ackwards. If you have chosen a
body shop that can do the job that you require, get an estimate from
them FIRST


This is why I was asking!! ;)  The only problem is the body shop I want
to use is two hours away (the shop the MB dealer farms their stuff out
to).  I'd have to take time off of work, etc.


And by the way, before the shop or your company sees the car, clean
it up. And I mean clean. A clean car makes a big impression on those
who have to work on it whether it's mechanical or body work and they
will do a better job. If you bring in a dirty car with black wheels
and crap all over the carpets, your question about paint matching
will fall on deaf ears.


I agree completely!!  This will be done :)



Your comment about letting your own company's adjuster decide what
the repair cost is before the body shop sees it can be bad because
what the company does when the shop calls to tell them that it will
cost more, the answer is If you want any more business from us, you
will accept our price. Farmer's Insurance (for one) has done this
and the quality of the repairs reflect it.


Excellent point.


Changing the door will cost far more than repairing it.


Assuming the door can be repaired.

John

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Re: [MBZ] Oil separator part deux

2010-01-06 Thread John Robbins

On 1/6/2010 3:50 PM, Rolf wrote:

There are aftermarkets on ebay for $20-30. I mean its not OEM but would
do the trick.


What he said and they'll probably work better!

John

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Re: [MBZ] Oil separator part deux

2010-01-06 Thread John Robbins
We're talking about an oil separator Gary  not exactly any high 
voltage or moving parts here.



On 1/6/2010 4:43 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

there is some cheap aftermarket stuff that just works great and offers
legitimate value.  and then there is cheap aftermarket that is just junk.


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Taiwanese lights

2009-12-19 Thread John Robbins

Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

So, my conclusion about these knock-offs:  If you don't care about how they
light up the road so much as how they look, then buy em!  I'm sure they're
not that bad.  And they're probably better than the 20 year old euro-lights
you'll get off eBay in germany that should have gone to the recycler.


They are really quite good.  I've never seen a reflector based housing 
have as nice of a cut-off as a projector, but the cheap euro's I bought 
for my 2.5T come pretty close to my stock CDI projectors.


:-)

John



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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Taiwanese lights

2009-12-19 Thread John Robbins

Allan Streib wrote:

So why do so many of the cars I see with projector lights absolutely
blind me with glare at night, whilst conventional headlights do not?


I'm not sure...  All those blue/purple/etc lights you see are in 
reflector housings. Is the glare you seeing coming off the road surface 
or just general 'the headlight is too bloody bright' glare?


One thing about good projectors is they will seem to flash you when 
they go over a bump since the cut-off is so sharp.  If you're below the 
cutoff line (they're pointed up enough going over a slight hill or 
something), they will be very bright.  Non-projector headlights have a 
more gradual cutoff so they won't get as bright as quickly as you go 
below the cut-off line.


My biggest complaint about lights in the US is that pickup trucks don't 
have self leveling lights!!  Inspections that checked adjustment would 
be pretty cool too.


John

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Re: [MBZ] Euro Headlight Update

2009-12-18 Thread John Robbins

On 12/18/2009 8:33 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

Glass lenses not plastic. No replacements, just buy a new assembly. As
John Robbins can attest to, new Bosch lenses are just as expensive as
these assemblies.


Indeed!  My housings have vacuum leveling at least.  I just bought 
projector headlights for my wagon off of eBay...  They were expensive 
($330 shipped for a set) compared to the other ones on eBay, but they 
come with the vacuum leveling, and are very well built. I'll be 
installing them on the car this weekend I hope.


They are probably too bling for 99% of the people on the list, but 
they look much better than all the other projector headlights for the 
W124.  The halogen projectors in the CDI are noticeable better than the 
euro reflector headlights in the '79 SD and my old 2.5T  and those 
were pretty good to start with! :)


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290369139029


John

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Re: [MBZ] Euro Headlight Update

2009-12-18 Thread John Robbins

Easy now! ;) And... No.  Those will never be on any of my cars.

On 12/18/2009 10:40 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

Do they come with the blue LEDs for your windshield wipers?

--R

John Robbins wrote:

On 12/18/2009 8:33 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:

Glass lenses not plastic. No replacements, just buy a new assembly. As
John Robbins can attest to, new Bosch lenses are just as expensive as
these assemblies.


Indeed! My housings have vacuum leveling at least. I just bought
projector headlights for my wagon off of eBay... They were expensive
($330 shipped for a set) compared to the other ones on eBay, but they
come with the vacuum leveling, and are very well built. I'll be
installing them on the car this weekend I hope.

They are probably too bling for 99% of the people on the list, but
they look much better than all the other projector headlights for the
W124. The halogen projectors in the CDI are noticeable better than the
euro reflector headlights in the '79 SD and my old 2.5T and those
were pretty good to start with! :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290369139029



John

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Taiwanese lights

2009-12-18 Thread John Robbins

On 12/18/2009 12:22 PM, E M wrote:

I don't know who Stern is, but I do know design of a headlight is a real
science, and takes a lot of time and investment.  I seem to recall an
article on the development of Porsche headlights from an old club mag,
Pano.  Mercedes I'm sure devote every bit as much attention to such things.


Reflector headlight design is definitely a very complex process.  It's 
my understanding that projectors are much easier to design.  Also, I 
plan on, one day, in my free time, finding some MB bi-xenon projectors. 
 Those will be OE, and it should be a pretty easy process to remove the 
old and put in the new.


:)

John

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Re: [MBZ] European Headlights

2009-12-16 Thread John Robbins

On 12/16/2009 3:52 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

TYC? Hella?


I just called and he said they were aftermarket... not the Bosch/Hella 
OE units.


John

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Re: [MBZ] trip to the local dealer

2009-12-11 Thread John Robbins

Donald Snook wrote:

How has the urea injection thing worked out? Is that something you
have to refill every once in a while? Where you do get the stuff? How
does it work?  Inquiring minds want to know.


If you get a 2005 or 2006 you don't have that system. :)  It is only the 
BlueTec 2007+ models that have the extra emissions equipment.  I 
honestly don't remember if the BlueTec's have the urea injection, but 
they will for 2010 (new emission regulations...).  The 2007+ diesels 
have a diesel particulate filter, which seem to be pretty trouble free 
so far.  I wonder how they'll last after 150-200k.  That's probably when 
the DPF will be replaced with an improved flow model ;)


John

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Re: [MBZ] trip to the local dealer

2009-12-11 Thread John Robbins

John Freer wrote:

You actually have two batteries and the one on my 05 CDI which
services the accessories went out at 50K and 4 years, still under
warranty.


Yep, according to the manual, the error message I'm seeing can be caused 
by three things: alternator, battery control module, or accessory 
battery.  There is a new PN for the battery controller, but the reason 
for the new controller doesn't seem to be 100% related to the problem 
I'm having.  I need to power cycle it sometime...  I've just been 
super busy.  The only reason I think the problem is the main battery is 
the error message isn't displayed while the key is in accessory, but it 
is in run, i.g. the glow plugs turn on.  I need to bust out the DMM and 
measure voltages to see what's going on.  If the battery controller 
voltage goes below 12.1V (that's pretty high IMO) it can throw that 
error message as well.


According to the Jan 2009 price list the batteries are something like 
$277 for the main battery and $150-170 for the aux battery.  Been a 
while since I looked it up.  If I have to get a replacement battery, I 
sure hope the next one lasts as long as an AGM battery is supposed to. 
Optima batteries are AGM, and they're supposed to last, IIRC, ten years.


MB Pricelist as of Jan 09
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/MB_Pricelist_2009-01.zip

John

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Re: [MBZ] trip to the local dealer

2009-12-11 Thread John Robbins

On 12/11/2009 9:07 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

I don't get that. Plastic ratchet pawls and/or sectors in a highly
stressed and important area? Those ratchets usually see a few hundred
pounds of force.


I don't get it either...  If nothing else, it should be a more 
substantial piece of plastic than what it is.  It definitely is very 
fragile looking.


John

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Re: [MBZ] OM603: Bubbles in Expansion Tank... Cracked head?

2009-12-10 Thread John Robbins

I dunno about that ;)

On 12/9/2009 5:20 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

seems like its time to retire it to okie acres.



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Re: [MBZ] trip to the local dealer

2009-12-10 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:
Thx Ed - appreciate you keeping us aware of new MBs.  My only problem, I 
feel cars should be judged after they have 100K miles or so on them 
before making any judgements about quality.


My 2005 CDI has 101k on it.  Still drives fantastic! :)  The fit and 
finish is still excellent, as is the engine.  The only thing outside of 
normal wear items (brakes, etc) is the thermostat @ 67k (stuck open), 
and a few months ago the plastic piece that ratchets the parking brake 
broke.


The battery might be getting iffy, which for a normal battery would be 
very reasonable.  However, the car comes with an AGM battery that is 
supposed to last longer.  Unfortunately, it is extremely expensive... as 
in... ~$250!!!


The only rattle I have is the lid for the storage compartment under the 
front of the passenger seat.  It only happens occasionally, and is 
easily stopped with a quick tap.


My $.02

John

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Re: [MBZ] OM603: Bubbles in Expansion Tank... Cracked head?

2009-12-09 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:
When you say, to the top do you mean the top/Hot mark ?  Or to the top 
of the filler neck?  There are 2 lines on the

side of the Exp Tk. - one for Low/Cold and another for High/Hot levels.


I filled it to the filler neck.  Here are some videos...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYcg8uUoG5I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pARyVwRha6Q

And yes, I sell Oil Analysis Kits.   You said there was no oil in the 
coolant and vice versa, but it's very difficult see unless there is a 
large amount of it -


Yeah, there can definitely be coolant in there you can't see, but I'm 
going to hold out on doing much more of anything to the car until 
January sometime.  I'm a little burned out on it.  I've spent the last 
three or so weeks working on the car non-stop so I could take it up to 
New Hampshire this weekend, but I'm not taking it now.


John

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[MBZ] OM603: Bubbles in Expansion Tank... Cracked head?

2009-12-07 Thread John Robbins

All,

When I fill my expansion tank to the top, I see a steady stream of 
bubbles coming out of the little hose that goes across the radiator. 
However, I don't seem to be using any coolant (only driven the car 800 
or so miles), have coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant.  When cold 
pressure doesn't build up in the cooling system unusually fast.  The 
radiator cap is good and after a hard run the hoses are rock hard. 
After a recent VERY hard run (multiple 0-100 runs), a pint or so of 
coolant leaked out...  which is when I found the bubbles.


I think it is likely a cracked head  IIRC, one of the (many) reasons 
a #14 head would fail is high exhaust back pressure from a clogged trap 
ox.  Well, there wasn't a trap on this car when I got it, but the cat. 
was so clogged up the only exhaust flow was through the EGR valve (that 
was interesting to diagnose!).


Thoughts?

John

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Re: [MBZ] College towns was: Re: Dealer tribute - Park Ave Motors - Palo Alto

2009-12-07 Thread John Robbins

Donald Snook wrote:

Oxford, Mississippi is a great little College/University town.


Starkville, MS is also pretty decent! I'm biased though ;)

John

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Re: [MBZ] OM603: Bubbles in Expansion Tank... Cracked head?

2009-12-07 Thread John Robbins

SteveB wrote:

Is there a chance you did not loose any antifreeze, but it went into
the overflow chamber located inside the fender well? There is a tube that
goes from the plastic fill tank toward the battery and then down to this
chamber.


Unfortunately, the coolant was on the ground. :(

John

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Re: [MBZ] antifreeze

2009-12-07 Thread John Robbins

relng...@aol.com wrote:

Fatal to pets. Wash it away.


Yep.  It's also raining today as well, so all is well.

John

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[MBZ] Bubbles in Expansion Tank [video update]

2009-12-07 Thread John Robbins

Here are two videos of the bubbles

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYcg8uUoG5I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pARyVwRha6Q


John

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Re: [MBZ] New battery technology, at a cost

2009-12-02 Thread John Robbins

Jim Cathey wrote:

So, have they solved the 20% per year (independent
of charge/discharge cycles) capacity loss that was
inherent in LiON batteries?  Or, like for phones and
computers, do they just disregard this and hope you
don't notice?


Battery technology is ever advancing there are actually MANY types 
of LiON battery chemistries, and not all are susceptible to the capacity 
loss.  For example, The Chevy Volt battery is required to have 100k full 
 discharge cycles over it's usable life with minimal degradation in 
capacity.  Basically, it is designed to last 10 years.


John

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Re: [MBZ] Avoiding carbon for non-Italians

2009-12-02 Thread John Robbins

Tim C wrote:

I think you all found the answer with the tires,
which were replaced around that time.  


Victory!

IMHO, I think stickier tires that have better handling (and thus better 
accident avoidance) with more rolling resistance are worth the trade off 
in mileage.


John

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Re: [MBZ] DIY not

2009-12-02 Thread John Robbins

Peter Frederick wrote:

I personally think the rod bending problem is only partially the
rods.  I've had the head off three of these things recently, and in
every case there is some evidence of excessive oil in #1.  There is a
known failure mode of the head gasket at the oil passage across the
front of #1, and oil leakage there will eventually result in
hydrolocking of #1...


Do you know if they have updated the head gasket to fix this?

John

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Re: [MBZ] Special Deals from BuyMBparts , Inc.

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

I am about to keep both of your new parts business off the list.


Wouldn't bother me a bit.

John

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Re: [MBZ] I got me a bent rod

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

Curt Raymond wrote:

Put a 617 in it with the crazy Finn tweaks and be done with it...


All their crazy tweaks are done on OM60x engines though.  Now it is 
mostly the 4-valve OM605 and OM606.


John

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Re: [MBZ] Special Deals from BuyMBparts , Inc.

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

dave walton wrote:

Today is the anniversary of Rosa Park's refusal to give her seat on a
public bus to some white racist.

And she did not whine about it.


Well said!

John

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Re: [MBZ] I got me a bent rod

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

Frederick W Moir wrote:

Six rods because the remaining ones are flawed.


Depending on what you're wanting to get out of the engine... and how 
cheap you are, you could get another bad rodbender engine for cheap, and 
take one of the good rods/pistons out of it.  You'll have the older 
style rod so they'll be in the same weight class as the other rods... 
etc.  If you want to get 400k out of the motor you can drop all the 
money on it, but if you're just looking to get 100-150k out of it



Mercedes has specs on what tolerance you can have on the piston and rod 
weights.  Just make sure you're within those specs and be done with it! :)


That's just me and my cheap-ass self though ;)

BTW, I'm not always a proponent of doing hack job stuff like this... 
just ask Rusty or my bank. ;)


*Flame suit on*
John

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Re: [MBZ] Avoiding carbon for non-Italians

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

Tim C wrote:

Because of the CVT I can't drive it flat-out


Why not?  Just because it isn't at a high RPM doesn't mean you aren't 
cleaning it out.  You're still making power, which makes heat, which in 
theory is what cleans things out in the diesels at least.  As others 
have said modern gas cars don't really carbon up though.




Will a synthetic oil help?



Did it have synthetic oil when you were getting higher MPG?  The oil 
manufacturers claim you get higher mileage with the good synthetics. 
Also, make sure the dealer is putting in the correct weight oil 
specified in the manual.  Newer cars are able to run on thinner oils, 
which increases fuel economy.  Maybe by only a few percent, but all 
these things add up.


Some other things...  Have you bought new tires?  Depending on the tire, 
you can have a vastly different rolling resistance.


Are they inflated to lower pressures than stock?  I've never had my car 
come back from a mechanic with a common tire pressure...


If there are underbody panels, are they still installed?  Those actually 
make quite a bit of difference at highway speeds.


Has any weight been added? ie, do you have more stuff in the car like 
a toolbox or something?


HTH!
John

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Re: [MBZ] I got me a bent rod

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

Curt Raymond wrote:

Pretty sure they did a 617 at one point. Wasn't the powerhouse the
newer engines are but quite respectable...


They did indeed  There's only one I know about, and it had a big 
turbo with a supercharger as well.  The only thing anybody in the states 
knows about it comes from a few pictures, and a burnout video in a 
parking lot.  Unfortunately, there are no dyno graphs we know about. 
The biggest problem though, is that they replaced the engine with an 
OM606 before they actually drove the 617 anywhere.  :(


John

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Re: [MBZ] I got me a bent rod

2009-12-01 Thread John Robbins

Mitch Haley wrote:
What was that green thing with OM617 and intercooler on top of the valve 
cover, W114, W115? I don't think it was a W123.


I remember a W115 (I think) that had an intercooler instead of a hood. 
There was also a fellow here in the states that had a ducted intercooler 
on top of the valve cover.  I think that was a W126?


The green thing from Finland is the one that's really turned up, and it 
was a green W123 wagon.


I'd be perfectly happy with a 250hp OM604. Was there a 16v diesel back 
then, and was there a factory turbo version, or would I have to step up 
to the OM605?


The OM604 should be a 4-valve, 4 cylinder.  I have no idea if there was 
a stock turbo version or not.  There is a Finnish fellow that goes by 
jeemuu who has made 466HP () from an OM605!


John


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Re: [MBZ] OT, how to get pics off digital camera

2009-11-30 Thread John Robbins
It probably uses an SDHC card instead of a normal SD card.  If you want 
it as a drive letter you'll need to get an SDHC card reader (normal SD 
ones don't support the high capacity format for some reason).


John


Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
For work, I had a Nikon D40 I used, and when plugged into the computer, 
it would pop up a window asking what you wanted to do, one of which 
options would be to open folder to view pics.  So now I bought myself 
this D3000 for work and when plugged in, it does not have that option at 
all, basically will only let you import the photos to your computer, not 
just open the folder to see which ones you want.  Rather than being 
listed as a removable drive in my computer its listed under scanners 
and camera.  Is there a setting somewhere on the computer to treat it as 
a removable drive, or somewhat to be able to just open folder, rather 
than only allowing to import photos?  Its basically not treating the 
camera as a drive, like most cameras I have used.



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Re: [MBZ] smokers only?

2009-11-12 Thread John Robbins

Allan Streib wrote:

This list was formed from the defunct DIESEL list at mbz.org when it had its 
last and final meltdown.

It was not named diesel as other lists from mbz.org were invited here also.

At least that's how I remember it.


That's how I remember it as well

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Re: [MBZ] BuyMBparts.com events (and an eventful evening it hasbeen!)

2009-11-11 Thread John Robbins

Mitch Haley wrote:

There are a couple of threads I wish I'd saved off.


No kidding!!!  There was a fantastic one about rebuilding the W124 
suspension with all Sportline components.


If someone will give me the database I'll get it hosted.  Seriously. 
I've been meaning to get a domain for a while...


John

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rocking Rolling

2009-11-09 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:

I was wondering if anyone knows how long they usually last?  I would
have though they would last longer than 100K.



One of the mounts in the CDI only made it to 85-90k.  When it went bad 
it went bad *fast*.  Within 1,000 miles it went from a shudder at 
shut-off to bouncing off the frame!  The mount literally fell apart when 
I took it out.



Then again, I've never had good luck with motor mounts on any of my cars.


John

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[MBZ] Free 300D 2.5 Parts Car

2009-10-30 Thread John Robbins

Mitch!!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=264312

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Re: [MBZ] FI Pump and OOMPF

2009-10-28 Thread John Robbins

ned kleinhenz wrote:

Right now, the top of the FI pump below where the injector lines are
attached, are leaking.  And Rusty has a good price on FI pumps. So I am
considering replacing it.  I already have a few of the special timing tools
for adjusting this pump, and I am not afraid of removing and replacing it.


What everyone else saying about replacing the delivery valve seals is 
correct.  Someone mentioned that it can't be the cause of performance 
issues I'm not 100% sure of that, but it will definitely cause poor 
running, nailing, smoking, etc.


Here is an excellent tutorial on how to replace the seals:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM606DeliveryValveSeals

Rusty can sell you the splined tool (~$30) and all the parts.  It seems 
scary to dive into the injection pump, but keep things clean and all 
will go well.  I've done this twice with no problems.  On my OM602 the 
klatter was significantly louder, but after some hard running over a 
few miles it settled out back to normal.


HTH!

John


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Re: [MBZ] Febi Parts

2009-10-26 Thread John Robbins

Gary Hurst wrote:

my biggest question would be whether the non benz hoses you have are
actually OEM.


Good point, they are whatever you/Rusty sell...

John

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Re: [MBZ] Febi Parts

2009-10-26 Thread John Robbins

Mitch Haley wrote:
Dave's pics are obviously of a Hengst built MBZ filter and a Mahle 
filter. I just went to my box of filters and pulled out a Hengst that I 
bought from Rusty. It looks identical to the MBZ filter in Dave's pic, 
right down to the blue surround on the paper element. 


Interesting... I *think* I have a Hengst filter in the shed... Will have 
to check it out tonight!


John

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Re: [MBZ] Febi Parts

2009-10-26 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:

So, am I wrong with the above?


Nope!  Well, at least that's  how I understand it
as well. ;)

John

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Re: [MBZ] 124 alternators

2009-10-25 Thread John Robbins

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
well this car had the contacts on the regulator worn almost completely 
down, so I swapped in another one but still not charging.  I do know 
when the key is turned on, non of the lights light up on the dash. 


IIRC, if the alternator lightbulb is out, it won't have the initial 
field current correct?


John

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Re: [MBZ] Seattle rod bender

2009-10-25 Thread John Robbins

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

Now that is a good idea.  The turbo 606 should make even a 5000+ lb
W140 get up and go.


Unfortunately, you need to have all the electronics to get that extra 
horsepower.  If you convert it to a mechanical injection pump, you'll 
only have as much horsepower as the car that pump came off of.  :(


John

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Re: [MBZ] 124 alternators

2009-10-25 Thread John Robbins

Craig McCluskey wrote:

http://www.124performance.com/docs/general/tire_gauges_MCN_test.pdf

along with a lot of information about oil, tools, glow plugs, and other
things.


His website is an absolutely amazing resource!!! I'm glad there are 
folks like him out there in our community.  He's a really nice guy to boot.


John

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Re: [MBZ] Febi Parts

2009-10-25 Thread John Robbins

Gary Hurst wrote:

btw, to some extent this is the exact same case as if you bought genuine
mercedes as mercedes is also mostly just a marketing box.  the presumption
that you are getting the best by going genuine grows more and more suspect
for me by the moment although there are still many out there who will swear
to you that the corteco product in the mercedes box is really superior to
the identical looking corteco product in the corteco box (the sort of
argument previously made by dr booth with regards to fuel injectors)


I have found that the genuine OE coolant hoses are of better quality 
than the OEM ones.  No idea why, but they are noticeably better.


I'm going to start buying OE parts for a few items I haven't been 
impressed with the reliability of (hood pads, motor mounts, serpentine 
belts, suspension bushings, etc).  We'll see how it turns out over time.


A point of reference...

http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_misc/oil_filter_OM60x_1.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_misc/oil_filter_OM60x_2.jpg
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_misc/oil_filter_OM60x_3.jpg

John


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Re: [MBZ] John's CDI [was Re: 190Ds]

2009-10-19 Thread John Robbins

Craig McCluskey wrote:

How many miles did it have when you bought it? How long ago was that?



Bought it with 67k in April of 2008. :-)

John

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Re: [MBZ] 190Ds

2009-10-17 Thread John Robbins

Mitch Haley wrote:
That 250 blutech might be cost prohibitive, but how much power does a 
220cdi make, and were they ever sold in USA or Canada?


Never sold in the US.  No idea about Canada.

The article says 204HP and 368lb/ft of torque.  That is the same as my 
E320 CDI!!!  I read about that engine a while back, and they are really 
figuring out how to shove all that power into a small engine!!


BTW, the CDI hit 100k last week!

John

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Re: [MBZ] BuyMBparts

2009-10-16 Thread John Robbins

Is there going to be a replacement to the IM thing you had going?



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Re: [MBZ] Anyone tow with a W124 wagon?

2009-10-14 Thread John Robbins

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

I also like the wiring kits they have there, I wonder if they are
equivalent to the MB kits that have a little light for the instrument
panel.


Little light for the instrument panel?  Could you elaborate a bit?  The 
wiring harness I have is pretty simple It basically plugs up in 
between the stock harness and one of the lights.



John

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone tow with a W124 wagon?

2009-10-14 Thread John Robbins

Peter Hertzing wrote:

Where did you find the hitch.  I have a 2200 pound popup that I would like
to pull with me 95 E320 but have never been able to find the hitch.



I found mine on PeachParts.  You just have to be lucky/patient and wait 
for one to pop up sometime.  You can also search on eBay.de and try to 
find someone who ships internationally.


Also, I believe there are different hitches for wagons vs. sedans.

John

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone tow with a W124 wagon?

2009-10-14 Thread John Robbins

Allan Streib wrote:

Well that's not the only reason for trailer brakes.  The mass of the
trailer means a lot of momentum, which pushes on the back end of your
car when you stop.  If the roads are wet, or worse icy, or you're on
gravel, etc. you will have a tendency to fishtail or jacknife even if
your brakes are otherwise capable of stopping.  With trailer brakes,
a lot of that momentum energy is dissipated and you have more
control.  Ideally the trailer brakes are balanced so that the trailer
neither pulls nor pushes on the tow vehicle when you are trying to
stop.


X2!!!

John

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Re: [MBZ] More MB boards?

2009-10-14 Thread John Robbins

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-trade-wanted-items/
http://mbca.cartama.net/forumdisplay.php?f=7

Very little traffic, but: 
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/fs-wtb-f-8.html


Mitch Haley wrote:

I don't know if they have a classified section, but what about
http://www.schumanautomotive.com/forums/   ?


They do, but the mods/owners there are crazy.  Then again, they banned 
me so I'm a little biased. Use your judgment as to whether I am 
ban-worthy or not. ;)



John


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Re: [MBZ] Anyone tow with a W124 wagon?

2009-10-14 Thread John Robbins

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
What is your source for the 2100kg? 


Errr... I don't exactly remember.  I believe it is from the below site, 
but it is down right now so I can't verify.  I do remember that it was 
only for wagons, and you had to have a different radiator that didn't 
have a transmission cooler.


http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

John

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone tow with a W124 wagon?

2009-10-13 Thread John Robbins

tyler wrote:

What is the factory rated towing capacity?


In Europe it's 750kg without trailer brakes, 2100kg with.  Sedans are 
1500kg with brakes. In the US... 0 kg. No chassis/brake/driveline 
differences that anybody knows about so I would roll with the European 
ratings.



Does anyone know if a W124 wagon (1987 300TD) can safely tow a 3500lb
 trailer?


According to the factory ratings... yes.  Just make sure that you have a 
 factory style hitch that also has the same ratings.  They show up 
occasionally on eBay or various forums  Also keep in mind that the 
tongue weight is only 75kg!



Would the transmission be up to it if a larger cooler was added?
Could the engine cooling system keep up with such a load?


I'd say it is a requirement!! They already have a transmission cooler 
built into the radiator, but the euro wagons with the towing package 
removed the transmission cooler from the radiator.  Presumably so the 
cooling system didn't have the extra load of the transmission so it 
could keep up with the increased load of the engine.  I'm also assuming 
an external transmission cooler was added at the same time.


All this being said, I've only researched this and not actually driven 
with a trailer on my wagon.  I've got a factory hitch waiting to be 
installed, but there are other more pressing matters I'm taking care of 
first  You know how that goes I'm sure! ;)


My $.02
John

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Re: [MBZ] Bel Air vs Malibu and crumple zones

2009-09-29 Thread John Robbins

pm7...@comcast.net wrote:

I'm driving 65 MPH, look in my mirror to change lanes, there's a bike
 about 500 feet behind me. I pull in front, holy crap, he screams by 
me going about 120!


This is normal in Germany...  I was cruising along at 130mph in the fast
lane, and nobody ever pulled out in front of me even with that large of
a speed differential!  The drivers there are AMAZING!!!

A random tidbit... most of the drivers there go 60-70, and about 10-15%
cruise at high speed.  Most of the cars that passed me were BMW's, MB
being next in line, and after that it was a pretty good mix.  FWIW, a
Ford Focus *flew* by me when I was going about 100mph!!

John


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Re: [MBZ] OT - sort of - repair costs

2009-09-16 Thread John Robbins



R A Bennell wrote:

I bought my 115 300D in July 05, so again 4 years ago. I only drive
it in the summer and I have put about 11000 miles on it so far. I
bought some bits and pieces from Rusty, but most of them have not yet
been installed - new belts, glow plugs, filters etc. I have trouble
with the AC that I have not fixed and it needs a few other things
done so it may not really be a fair comparison but I really have done
almost nothing but change oil once each year and put fuel in.


I've been lucky so far in the CDI.  $25,800 purchase (without taxes), 
$1000 repair bill for new brakes, rotors, etc all around, replaced 
thermostat and a few other minor things.  I replaced the motor mounts 
and transmission mount for $300 (parts only), and had about $900 or so 
of other dealer work done.  So approximately $28,000 total.


I've put about 32k miles on it in 1.5 years so I'm under a dollar a mile 
at least!!  Sounds really expensive, but for a new complex vehicle I'm 
counting myself lucky.


John

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Re: [MBZ] OT mimosa tree

2009-09-14 Thread John Robbins

Fmiser wrote:

I have enjoyed seeing friends mimosa trees, so I'm thinking of
adding one or two to my yard.


Beware that many people consider them weed trees since they grow so fast 
and proliferate pretty quickly, which is probably why Rich said to not 
get one.



Are there hidden pains, secret tricks, problems etc. regarding
having a mimosa tree?



Put them in the ground, fertilize them if you want, and watch them grow! 
 When I bought my house in Jan of 2005 I wanted some shade in the 
backyard as quickly as I could get it.  I planted two and they are huge 
now.  One of them took off the second summer, and the other only really 
took off this summer.  I don't have any complaints. :)


G'luck!
John

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Re: [MBZ] OT mimosa tree

2009-09-14 Thread John Robbins

harry watkins wrote:
They are great trees and I love them, however, we had a problem with 
them. I think it was the mid eighties when a disease hit in the area and 
wiped them out.  I don't think I could find one even though its been 
about thirty years.


I've got two in my backyard, and I think I live within an hour or two of 
you! They are all over the place in Starkville, I regularly have wild 
ones pop up in the yard.


PS: We should meet up sometime! :)

John

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Re: [MBZ] MB StarTec

2009-09-13 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:
I created a Free account last year and used it once in a while.  Was 
trying to access it yesterday and was not allowed to enter.  It said my 
UserName as not available for renewal.


https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/

Has anyone else noticed this?  Am I reading the situation correctly?


Are you sure it was StarTek instead of the EPC version of StarTek?

http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/

That is the only free version I know of.  They still ask for your credit 
card, but they don't charge it.


John

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Re: [MBZ] Alive WAS Sunhil

2009-09-13 Thread John Robbins

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

you are alive?


Every so often ;)

I **finally** got the wagon on the road last night!!  It is much faster 
than I remembered it.  Not CDI fast, but still very fast indeed.  Much 
faster than my 2.5T.


John

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Re: [MBZ] MB StarTec

2009-09-13 Thread John Robbins

LarryT wrote:
Sorry to have bothered you 


Nonsense! You did no such thing. :-)

John


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Re: [MBZ] Sunhil

2009-09-11 Thread John Robbins

Sunil Hari


Donald Snook wrote:

Remember the list member Sunhil?   What was his last name? I am
working on a case (which I can't give you details about) and there is
a person involved named Sunhil.  Just wondering,




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Re: [MBZ] calling card - was Parts exchange

2009-09-10 Thread John Robbins

Fmiser wrote:
Any suggestions on a good web forum to recommend? 


www.peachparts.com  (formerly Mercedesshop)

They have a fairly active classified section as well.

John

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Re: [MBZ] new vehicle on the family

2009-07-13 Thread John Robbins

Michael Esh wrote:

Ebay # 320394783103
My son in law just picked up a 1985 300td from Munster, IN for $327.00   
We will be picking it up this weekend.  Engine has a knock but it looks 
like the body is fairly good.


Sounds like a good deal!  I like the sedan door ;-)

John

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Fads

2009-07-08 Thread John Robbins

WILTON wrote:

A ridiculous styling fad that Buick introduced about 1950 - '52 still
hangs on.  Buick started putting port holes (fake exhaust ports) on
the upper sides of front fenders about '50 -'52 to simulate exhaust
pipes/ports on sides of '20's Cord, Duisenberg, etc., hoods.  The
more expensive/bigger Buicks had four ports; smaller models had
three ports.  After marketers picked up on it and sold even fakier
attachment ports that vehicle owners could add to their fenders on
Fords, Chevies, Plymouths, or whatever.  Well, guess what I saw this
afternoon - a fairly new Buick with, you guessed it - fake exhaust
ports on sides of front fenders.  They've been streamlined a bit
since the early '50's, but they're still there - must-have items,
especially for a Buick owner, I guess.  Otherwise, how can one tell
it's a Buick?   ;)


They aren't just for Buick's anymore!  You can get sticky ones to add on 
any car you want.  Could even put some on your W124 if you want. ;-)


John

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