Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks, Got one coming.  It appears there are 2 tools needed - one for 
the springs that hold the shoes against the backing plate and another 
for the springs that connect the 2 shoes.


Seems someone could make a tool that would do both jobs instead of 
needing 2 tools


Thanks again for your help,
Larry

On 11/20/2018 10:59 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

Brake spring hook

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W86557-Brake-Spring/dp/B003WZPP50/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_vtp_ses_clicks_0_1? 



Not having one of these, I used the hook end of a machinist's scribe 
clamped in a vice grip to do the job, but it is hard on the scribe.  
It is easy to ruin the scribe, so one of these is a better way to 
go.   But if the special tool is not available, improvise...


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Brake spring hook

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W86557-Brake-Spring/dp/B003WZPP50/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_vtp_ses_clicks_0_1?

Not having one of these, I used the hook end of a machinist's scribe 
clamped in a vice grip to do the job, but it is hard on the scribe.  It 
is easy to ruin the scribe, so one of these is a better way to go.   But 
if the special tool is not available, improvise...


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[clay monroe via Mercedes]

Not having a DD does render me rather inert.  I can cruise the interwebs 
looking for a DD.  I did look at a newer benz, but they all come back as turds 
on all the review pages.   Not CR, but the NADA, KBB, auto mags.  But all the 
cars with computers are coming back as lemons once the warranty lapses.  Those 
30 year old cars at least have class


clay monroe
redgh...@comcast.net



> On Nov 20, 2018, at 7:37 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Clay is inert now?  I thought he was just selling his beater Benz
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 16, 2018, at 5:22 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I think you really meant:"I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths 
>> of inert clay tie downs. "
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>>   On Friday, November 16, 2018, 12:39:12 PM EST, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:  
>> 
>> That's what I was thinking. 
>> I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths of rubber tie downs. 
>> The smell was overwhelming when I opened the box. 
>> And a year later, the rubber bungies were cracking up like crazy. 
>> Mitch. 
>> 
>>> On November 16, 2018 at 12:27 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The cheap chinee rubber.  Very distinct odor.
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Peter & Rick!

On 11/20/2018 6:27 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Here is the brake tools, but they are out of stock.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTEUCQO/?coliid=I3NZCJVYTY65JX=2Q9UPIRDJV6VX=0_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it#

Here is the cluster tools

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VU0D7KO/?coliid=I2E16QGJX85DGQ=2Q9UPIRDJV6VX=0_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

And here is a MB brake tool.

https://www.amazon.com/JTC-Tools-JTC-1852-Mercedes-Parking-Installer/dp/B00DP5O00S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8=1542756160=8-3=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65=Mercedes+Brake+Spring+remover=1=218Ky9ktnyL=plSrch

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max  (and Dan)
I'll pick up those tools.  ;-)

It really is going pretty easily - but as everyone knows, I'm pretty 
cautious when undertaking a new task (ya'll probably get tired of all my 
questions).  All the great suggestions have made this go smoothly.

Thanks again to all-
Larry

On 11/20/2018 2:47 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Larry - Dan has linked to the hook tools for removing the parking brake
springs in the past, they are available on Amazon for $15 or $20 I think.
They really make the job much much easier, worth the investment.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 2:07 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I have removed the
bolt holding the E-Brake cable to the rotor backing plate but am still
scratching my head over how to remove the shoes.  They don't look like
normal shoes.  Those springs are hard to get off as well, but I'll keep
working on it and before you know it, we'll be driving our 300D before
you know it!  ;-)



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Here is the brake tools, but they are out of stock.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTEUCQO/?coliid=I3NZCJVYTY65JX=2Q9UPIRDJV6VX=0_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it#

Here is the cluster tools

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VU0D7KO/?coliid=I2E16QGJX85DGQ=2Q9UPIRDJV6VX=0_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

And here is a MB brake tool.

https://www.amazon.com/JTC-Tools-JTC-1852-Mercedes-Parking-Installer/dp/B00DP5O00S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8=1542756160=8-3=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65=Mercedes+Brake+Spring+remover=1=218Ky9ktnyL=plSrch

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Acetylene torch is our usual removal tool.  I suspect rolling the car around 
with the lug bolts installed but loose will work, but I've never had to do that.

Large hammers, etc, have never done anything for us.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Do a Google search or Amazon for "Genuine Mercedes Instrument Cluster Pull 
Hooks 140589023300”.  Best $25 you’ll ever spend.

Besides the original intent, I can’t count the other ways I’ve used these tools 
- pulling brake springs is one of them, but there are oodles of other ways, 
too.  I rank these up close to my “magnet on a stick” I bought from Sears in 
1978 that has earned its value back exponentially.  Mr. Magnet has saved my 
bottom so many times I can’t begin to keep track.

-D



> On Nov 20, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Larry - Dan has linked to the hook tools for removing the parking brake
> springs in the past, they are available on Amazon for $15 or $20 I think.
> They really make the job much much easier, worth the investment.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 2:07 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> I have removed the
>> bolt holding the E-Brake cable to the rotor backing plate but am still
>> scratching my head over how to remove the shoes.  They don't look like
>> normal shoes.  Those springs are hard to get off as well, but I'll keep
>> working on it and before you know it, we'll be driving our 300D before
>> you know it!  ;-)
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Larry - Dan has linked to the hook tools for removing the parking brake
springs in the past, they are available on Amazon for $15 or $20 I think.
They really make the job much much easier, worth the investment.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 2:07 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I have removed the
> bolt holding the E-Brake cable to the rotor backing plate but am still
> scratching my head over how to remove the shoes.  They don't look like
> normal shoes.  Those springs are hard to get off as well, but I'll keep
> working on it and before you know it, we'll be driving our 300D before
> you know it!  ;-)
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang!
    Success!  My dead-blow hammer worked it off a little at a time.  
And my spare rotors fit perfectly with the correct hat diameter and 
rotor dia.   All the screw holes line up as well.   I have removed the 
bolt holding the E-Brake cable to the rotor backing plate but am still 
scratching my head over how to remove the shoes.  They don't look like 
normal shoes.  Those springs are hard to get off as well, but I'll keep 
working on it and before you know it, we'll be driving our 300D before 
you know it!  ;-)
    The little Pig's Tails that appear to be holding the shoes to the 
backing plate are not cooperating!  But I'll read the replies I received 
from you guys and check with the WSM and I'll get them off.  One step at 
a time ;-)

    Thanks again,
LarryT

On 11/20/2018 12:42 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Sometimes I forget the Mercedes rear rotors are also brake drums.

Especially when it's only an e-brake, a ring of rust on the edge of the drum 
can make it impossible to remove the drum without backing off the adjuster 
between the shoes. If you force it off you might break something in the e-brake.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

It is probably still dragging on the e brake shoes.  It they have worn a 
groove in the drum, then it is very difficult to get the rotor off.  
(unless you can turn the adjuster to loosen them.)



Larry Turner via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 11:08 AM
yep, E Brake is off. We depressed it them pulled the release just to 
be sure.  I'm going to release the adjusting screw further as soon as 
I find the damn thing.  The rotor is hard to turn - probably because 
of the bad bearing.


Haven't seen any rust on the brake components yet.   Also, before I 
started removing the parts I sprayed everything with Penetrating oil.  
It seems to be working.  Also, the axle shaft released with 2 -3 hit 
from my BFH with the nut unscrewed where it is flush with the end of 
the shaft.  Popped loose and it looks like it has pristine splines.


Thanks,
Larry


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Sometimes I forget the Mercedes rear rotors are also brake drums. 

Especially when it's only an e-brake, a ring of rust on the edge of the drum 
can make it impossible to remove the drum without backing off the adjuster 
between the shoes. If you force it off you might break something in the 
e-brake. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

It's warmed up enough to go out and play with the MB some more.   Thanks 
again for all the help.


LarryT

On 11/20/2018 12:08 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
yep, E Brake is off. We depressed it them pulled the release just to 
be sure.  I'm going to release the adjusting screw further as soon as 
I find the damn thing.  The rotor is hard to turn - probably because 
of the bad bearing.


Haven't seen any rust on the brake components yet.   Also, before I 
started removing the parts I sprayed everything with Penetrating oil.  
It seems to be working.  Also, the axle shaft released with 2 -3 hit 
from my BFH with the nut unscrewed where it is flush with the end of 
the shaft.  Popped loose and it looks like it has pristine splines.


Thanks,
Larry
On 11/20/2018 9:25 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I missed where Larry said the screw was out.   One other thing:  Is 
the emergency brake OFF?  The E brake shoes can hold onto the 
disk/drum very hard even when released, especially if rusted in 
place.    After that, beat on it with a BFH.



Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 8:18 AM
He said it’s been removed.

Corrosion gets into the area between the axle flange and the brake 
rotor, and the only thing that will break it loose is heat and/or 
force. You have to use a heavy, like 3-4 pound mallet or dead blow 
hammer, and just wail on the thing like there’s no tomorrow.


-D



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

What about a 3 jaw puller without heat?  While I think the pair of 
rotors I have will fit my car I won't be sure until I try them.  But if 
I need to replace the rotor I will.


Thanks -
Larry

On 11/20/2018 9:35 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

3 Jaw puller + acetylene torch.
Put a bunch of tension on the puller, then heat the area between the lug holes 
and the hub hole until the rotor pops off. Only good for removing old rotor to 
install a new one, no matter how carefully I thought I did it the rotor got 
warped.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

yep, E Brake is off. We depressed it them pulled the release just to be 
sure.  I'm going to release the adjusting screw further as soon as I 
find the damn thing.  The rotor is hard to turn - probably because of 
the bad bearing.


Haven't seen any rust on the brake components yet.   Also, before I 
started removing the parts I sprayed everything with Penetrating oil.  
It seems to be working.  Also, the axle shaft released with 2 -3 hit 
from my BFH with the nut unscrewed where it is flush with the end of the 
shaft.  Popped loose and it looks like it has pristine splines.


Thanks,
Larry
On 11/20/2018 9:25 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I missed where Larry said the screw was out.   One other thing:  Is 
the emergency brake OFF?  The E brake shoes can hold onto the 
disk/drum very hard even when released, especially if rusted in 
place.    After that, beat on it with a BFH.



Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 8:18 AM
He said it’s been removed.

Corrosion gets into the area between the axle flange and the brake 
rotor, and the only thing that will break it loose is heat and/or 
force. You have to use a heavy, like 3-4 pound mallet or dead blow 
hammer, and just wail on the thing like there’s no tomorrow.


-D



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

For brake drums I usually get a three pound hammer and beat them until they 
come loose or shatter. I would suspect rear rotors would be the same, as long 
as the securing bolt has been removed. 
Be careful where you hit. 
A large hammer makes a mess of body work, and body parts in short order.
 
Wear safety glasses. 

Rick


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks - I'LL try my dead-blow - forgot about that..
Larry

On 11/20/2018 9:18 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

He said it’s been removed.

Corrosion gets into the area between the axle flange and the brake rotor, and 
the only thing that will break it loose is heat and/or force.  You have to use 
a heavy, like 3-4 pound mallet or dead blow hammer, and just wail on the thing 
like there’s no tomorrow.

-D




On Nov 20, 2018, at 9:13 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes  
wrote:

is it held on by an allen head flathead screw?   I think the 124 rear are.  I 
know for sure 123 and older have the screw.   The rotor comes off much easier 
with the screw out.


Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 7:57 AM
Beat on it. Hard. BFH.

-D


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

removed it Saturday...  Thanks,
Larry

On 11/20/2018 9:13 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
is it held on by an allen head flathead screw?   I think the 124 rear 
are.  I know for sure 123 and older have the screw.   The rotor comes 
off much easier with the screw out.



Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 7:57 AM
Beat on it. Hard. BFH.

-D



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Clay is inert now?  I thought he was just selling his beater Benz

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Nov 16, 2018, at 5:22 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think you really meant:"I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths 
> of inert clay tie downs. "
> 
> -Curt
> 
>On Friday, November 16, 2018, 12:39:12 PM EST, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
>  wrote:  
> 
> That's what I was thinking. 
> I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths of rubber tie downs. 
> The smell was overwhelming when I opened the box. 
> And a year later, the rubber bungies were cracking up like crazy. 
> Mitch. 
> 
>> On November 16, 2018 at 12:27 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> The cheap chinee rubber.  Very distinct odor.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

3 Jaw puller + acetylene torch. 
Put a bunch of tension on the puller, then heat the area between the lug holes 
and the hub hole until the rotor pops off. Only good for removing old rotor to 
install a new one, no matter how carefully I thought I did it the rotor got 
warped. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Yep, Dan's right.

I never found any threaded hole that accepted a stud to push the rotor off
the hub, but that would be a really nice thing to find - maybe factory
rotors have them, but after market don't?

I coat the inside of the rotors with never-seize before installation, where
they contact the face of the hub, and then "next time" they just come right
off like butter.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 9:19 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> He said it’s been removed.
>
> Corrosion gets into the area between the axle flange and the brake rotor,
> and the only thing that will break it loose is heat and/or force.  You have
> to use a heavy, like 3-4 pound mallet or dead blow hammer, and just wail on
> the thing like there’s no tomorrow.
>
> -D
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

I missed where Larry said the screw was out.   One other thing:  Is the 
emergency brake OFF?  The E brake shoes can hold onto the disk/drum very 
hard even when released, especially if rusted in place.After that, 
beat on it with a BFH.



Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 8:18 AM
He said it’s been removed.

Corrosion gets into the area between the axle flange and the brake 
rotor, and the only thing that will break it loose is heat and/or 
force. You have to use a heavy, like 3-4 pound mallet or dead blow 
hammer, and just wail on the thing like there’s no tomorrow.


-D



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

He said it’s been removed.

Corrosion gets into the area between the axle flange and the brake rotor, and 
the only thing that will break it loose is heat and/or force.  You have to use 
a heavy, like 3-4 pound mallet or dead blow hammer, and just wail on the thing 
like there’s no tomorrow.

-D



> On Nov 20, 2018, at 9:13 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> is it held on by an allen head flathead screw?   I think the 124 rear are.  I 
> know for sure 123 and older have the screw.   The rotor comes off much easier 
> with the screw out.
> 
>> Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>> November 20, 2018 at 7:57 AM
>> Beat on it. Hard. BFH.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Some rotors also have a threaded hole in the bolt circle you can put a 
bolt in to pull the rotor.  It has been a few years since I did 124 rear 
rotors, I don't remember the details.



Larry Turner via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 7:44 AM
Hi Guys,
I posted a email on 11/18 and so far it is not showing up in the 
forum.  Is anyone else seeing it?  I spoke about where I am in the 
removal of the Bearing carrier and the difficulty I am having getting 
the rotor to break loose.  The axle shaft slides in and out with ease, 
the Allen screw has been removed as has the caliper.


I looked at the emails everyone provided during the past as I 
prepared to do this and don't see any mention of any connection on the 
backside of the rotor.  Same for the WSM.


I've been hitting it with a hammer but there are no signs it 
is loosening.


Did my email with photos get through?
What am I missing with the rotor?

Thanks
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

is it held on by an allen head flathead screw?   I think the 124 rear 
are.  I know for sure 123 and older have the screw.   The rotor comes 
off much easier with the screw out.



Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
November 20, 2018 at 7:57 AM
Beat on it. Hard. BFH.

-D



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Beat on it.  Hard.  BFH.

-D


> On Nov 20, 2018, at 8:44 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Guys,
> I posted a email on 11/18 and so far it is not showing up in the forum.  
> Is anyone else seeing it?  I spoke about where I am in the removal of the 
> Bearing carrier and the difficulty I am having getting the rotor to break 
> loose.  The axle shaft slides in and out with ease, the Allen screw has been 
> removed as has the caliper.
> 
> I looked at the emails everyone provided during the past as I prepared to 
> do this and don't see any mention of any connection on the backside of the 
> rotor.  Same for the WSM.
> 
> I've been hitting it with a hammer but there are no signs it is 
> loosening.
> 
> Did my email with photos get through?
> What am I missing with the rotor?
> 
> Thanks
> LarryT
> 91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Guys,
    I posted a email on 11/18 and so far it is not showing up in the 
forum.  Is anyone else seeing it?  I spoke about where I am in the 
removal of the Bearing carrier and the difficulty I am having getting 
the rotor to break loose.  The axle shaft slides in and out with ease, 
the Allen screw has been removed as has the caliper.


    I looked at the emails everyone provided during the past as I 
prepared to do this and don't see any mention of any connection on the 
backside of the rotor.  Same for the WSM.


        I've been hitting it with a hammer but there are no signs it is 
loosening.


Did my email with photos get through?
What am I missing with the rotor?

Thanks
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[clay monroe via Mercedes]

Yes, the Mercedes Source model.  Kent is really good at conjugating interesting 
tools.


clay monroe
redgh...@comcast.net



> On Nov 16, 2018, at 8:45 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> That’s what Harbor Fright is really good for - cheep chinee tools I can buy, 
> cut up/modify without concerns about the cost.
> 
> I have one that less than two miles from my house.  On days when the breeze 
> is right and the windows are open I can smell it.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Nov 16, 2018, at 11:29 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I did similar, I cut off the end of the cheapo Harbor Freight socket to
>> make it as shallow as possible, so that the breaker-bar torque was applied
>> as close to the nut as possible.  Trick is to keep the end of the socket
>> square.
>> -
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 11:24 AM OK Don via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I have several sockets that have had the tapered lip ground off so the hex
>>> grabs immediately for those shallow tight nuts.
>>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 I think you really meant:"I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths of 
inert clay tie downs. "

-Curt

On Friday, November 16, 2018, 12:39:12 PM EST, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 That's what I was thinking. 
I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths of rubber tie downs. 
The smell was overwhelming when I opened the box. 
And a year later, the rubber bungies were cracking up like crazy. 
Mitch. 

> On November 16, 2018 at 12:27 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The cheap chinee rubber.  Very distinct odor.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 16/11/2018 11:27 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, "distinct". Sort of like driving by a hog farm.

RB


The cheap chinee rubber.  Very distinct odor.

-D



On Nov 16, 2018, at 12:21 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:

On Fri, 16 Nov 2018 11:45:08 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
 wrote:


That’s what Harbor Fright is really good for - cheep chinee tools I can
buy, cut up/modify without concerns about the cost.

I have one that less than two miles from my house.  On days when the
breeze is right and the windows are open I can smell it.

??


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

That's what I was thinking. 
I once bought 10 packs of three different lengths of rubber tie downs. 
The smell was overwhelming when I opened the box. 
And a year later, the rubber bungies were cracking up like crazy. 
Mitch. 

> On November 16, 2018 at 12:27 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The cheap chinee rubber.  Very distinct odor.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

The cheap chinee rubber.  Very distinct odor.

-D


> On Nov 16, 2018, at 12:21 PM, Craig via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 16 Nov 2018 11:45:08 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> That’s what Harbor Fright is really good for - cheep chinee tools I can
>> buy, cut up/modify without concerns about the cost.
>> 
>> I have one that less than two miles from my house.  On days when the
>> breeze is right and the windows are open I can smell it.
> 
> ??
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Fri, 16 Nov 2018 11:45:08 -0500 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
 wrote:

> That’s what Harbor Fright is really good for - cheep chinee tools I can
> buy, cut up/modify without concerns about the cost.
> 
> I have one that less than two miles from my house.  On days when the
> breeze is right and the windows are open I can smell it.

??


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

That’s what Harbor Fright is really good for - cheep chinee tools I can buy, 
cut up/modify without concerns about the cost.

I have one that less than two miles from my house.  On days when the breeze is 
right and the windows are open I can smell it.

-D


> On Nov 16, 2018, at 11:29 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did similar, I cut off the end of the cheapo Harbor Freight socket to
> make it as shallow as possible, so that the breaker-bar torque was applied
> as close to the nut as possible.  Trick is to keep the end of the socket
> square.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 11:24 AM OK Don via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> 
>> I have several sockets that have had the tapered lip ground off so the hex
>> grabs immediately for those shallow tight nuts.
>> 


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

I did similar, I cut off the end of the cheapo Harbor Freight socket to
make it as shallow as possible, so that the breaker-bar torque was applied
as close to the nut as possible.  Trick is to keep the end of the socket
square.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Nov 16, 2018 at 11:24 AM OK Don via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I have several sockets that have had the tapered lip ground off so the hex
> grabs immediately for those shallow tight nuts.
>
> On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 8:53 AM Larry Turner via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Thanks Max,
> > I have a Dewalt Electr wrench - depending on compressors  and air gun,
> > the electr gun sometimes has more uumph.
> >
> > Your point about the nut being shallow is appreciated - I understand the
> > concern.  I guess if I round it off I can cut it with a chisel if
> > careful not to damage threads?  which may be tricky...
> >
> > Thanks again,
> > LarryT
> >
> > On 11/11/2018 8:17 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> > > That twelve point nut:  lock the parking brake and leave transmission
> in
> > gear.  Lean hard into your air gun, the nut is shallow and easily rounded
> > off.
> >
> > --
> > Owner
> > Youroil.net
> > PMO Carbs / Weber Parts / Oil Analysis
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
>
> --
> OK Don
>
> *“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
> our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain
>
> "There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
> learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
> for themselves."
>
> WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[OK Don via Mercedes]

I have several sockets that have had the tapered lip ground off so the hex
grabs immediately for those shallow tight nuts.

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 8:53 AM Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Thanks Max,
> I have a Dewalt Electr wrench - depending on compressors  and air gun,
> the electr gun sometimes has more uumph.
>
> Your point about the nut being shallow is appreciated - I understand the
> concern.  I guess if I round it off I can cut it with a chisel if
> careful not to damage threads?  which may be tricky...
>
> Thanks again,
> LarryT
>
> On 11/11/2018 8:17 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> > That twelve point nut:  lock the parking brake and leave transmission in
> gear.  Lean hard into your air gun, the nut is shallow and easily rounded
> off.
>
> --
> Owner
> Youroil.net
> PMO Carbs / Weber Parts / Oil Analysis
>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>

-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max,
I have a Dewalt Electr wrench - depending on compressors  and air gun, 
the electr gun sometimes has more uumph.


Your point about the nut being shallow is appreciated - I understand the 
concern.  I guess if I round it off I can cut it with a chisel if 
careful not to damage threads?  which may be tricky...


Thanks again,
LarryT

On 11/11/2018 8:17 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

That twelve point nut:  lock the parking brake and leave transmission in gear.  
Lean hard into your air gun, the nut is shallow and easily rounded off.


--
Owner
Youroil.net
PMO Carbs / Weber Parts / Oil Analysis

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

That twelve point nut:  lock the parking brake and leave transmission in gear.  
Lean hard into your air gun, the nut is shallow and easily rounded off.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I'll take some more photo's myself and send them to you.  The ones we 
took before was me trying to explain to my wife where to point the 
camera, then as I was trying to explain I realized she would never lay 
on the ground to get a good shot.  Something about spiders.  ;-)


I'll try tomorrow.    the wheel is off now as well which should make 
things easier.  After I pulled the wheel I realized  I should have 
loosened the 12 pt nut 1st but hopefully my electric air wrench will do 
the job, it's made by Dewalt and is pretty stout.


LarryT


On 11/10/2018 7:06 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:


On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 16:48:27 -0600 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:


Did you ever post pictures of the actual rusted spot?

No.



I still can't imagine one rusty spot being fatal to the car.  They are
stoutly built, and generally the fenders fall off before the subframe
would let loose.

It would be interesting to see pictures.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 16:48:27 -0600 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Did you ever post pictures of the actual rusted spot?

No.


> I still can't imagine one rusty spot being fatal to the car.  They are
> stoutly built, and generally the fenders fall off before the subframe
> would let loose.

It would be interesting to see pictures.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Did you ever post pictures of the actual rusted spot?  I still can't 
imagine one rusty spot being fatal to the car.  They are stoutly built, 
and generally the fenders fall off before the subframe would let loose.



Larry Turner via Mercedes 
November 10, 2018 at 2:17 PM
Hi Max, Mitch, Peter and others,

I need your advice about driving my 91 300D with the sub frame 
connection rusting away from the body.  I rec'd the following from a 
poster on Pelican.


He said: 
___


"...  Fixing the body is more involved, I would not be driving it 
with one broken and probably another ready to break.
If a tornado was coming, needed to make it drive and didn't care 
much about keeping the car long term. I'd take some 0.060"-ish thick 
sheet metal that extends beyond the rusted area and place it between 
the sub frame bushing and body. Next take the same type of material 
and place inside the car. Drill through the whole mess and put a long 
bolt / all thread through everything."


_ 



He obviously feels like driving it with one connection loose and the 
other rusted and questionable may be unsafe to drive.  I'm getting 
ready to replace the RWB and thought I should ask if ya'll think I'd 
be risking my life by driving it after the RWB is replaced?


There's no other rust on the car, the engine and tranny are strong, 
interior almost perfect and it has a new paint job.I'm able to 
lower myself to the ground and get back up again, so I can take more 
photos if needed to answer my question?


Thanks gang!!
LarryT
91 300D



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Need pictures of the damage.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: November 10, 2018 2:18 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: l02tur...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing


Hi Max, Mitch, Peter and others,

I need your advice about driving my 91 300D with the sub frame
connection rusting away from the body.  I rec'd the following from a
poster on Pelican.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max, Mitch, Peter and others,

I need your advice about driving my 91 300D with the sub frame 
connection rusting away from the body.  I rec'd the following from a 
poster on Pelican.


He said: 
___


    "...  Fixing the body is more involved, I would not be driving it 
with one broken and probably another ready to break.
    If a tornado was coming, needed to make it drive and didn't care 
much about keeping the car long term. I'd take some 0.060"-ish thick 
sheet metal that extends beyond the rusted area and place it between the 
sub frame bushing and body. Next take the same type of material and 
place inside the car. Drill through the whole mess and put a long bolt / 
all thread through everything."


_

He obviously feels like driving it with one connection loose and the 
other rusted and questionable may be unsafe to drive.  I'm getting ready 
to replace the RWB and thought I should ask if ya'll think I'd be 
risking my life by driving it after the RWB is replaced?


There's no other rust on the car, the engine and tranny are strong, 
interior almost perfect and it has a new paint job.    I'm able to lower 
myself to the ground and get back up again, so I can take more photos if 
needed to answer my question?


Thanks gang!!
LarryT
91 300D

On 08/21/2018 7:55 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to do to 
the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the hub, and 
thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines so it can 
stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No E-anything 
sockets needed.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max,

 * I'll keep looking at my shop manuals, but I guess I'll probably have
   to wait until I get the C Clip off and will use my mirror to see the
   bolts behind the hub.  Of course, the way Mitch describes it, I
   don't have to worry about the outer CV flange bolts.  I'm not
   visualizing it that way but he may be very correct - I know he is
   familiar with these things

The pdf # 35-130 is great for showing details of the rear hub/carrier.  
At least that's the image I've been using to visualize what I'll be 
facing  Thanks for the comments -


LarryT


On 08/22/2018 6:49 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Mitch & Larry, some of the suspension link fasteners need the special
socket bits (triple square?) on the later 124 cars, I don't remember if
they are the outer ends of the links or the inner ends but I do remember
them when I overhauled the rear suspension on my '95 and my '87.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 7:55 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to
do to the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the
hub, and thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines
so it can stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No
E-anything sockets needed.




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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I pounded a 9mm on but it split the socket and still didn't have enough 
strength to break the bolt free.
-Curt
 

On Wednesday, August 22, 2018, 8:03:43 AM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 I take it the 60° corners on a double hex (12pt) socket don't play well enough 
with the 90° corners on the triple square bolts?

I just checked Snap-On, they've got the XZN male bit sockets, but no matching 
triple square female sockets. Double square are easy to find. Fortunately the 
12pt cylinder head bolts on my CVCC Civic were double hex, so a cheap 12pt 
socket fit perfectly. 

Mitch. 

> On August 22, 2018 at 7:49 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> My '85 190D had triple square bolts on the inner axle joints. The bolts were 
> male requiring a female socket which I never could find.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

I take it the 60° corners on a double hex (12pt) socket don't play well enough 
with the 90° corners on the triple square bolts?

I just checked Snap-On, they've got the XZN male bit sockets, but no matching 
triple square female sockets. Double square are easy to find. Fortunately the 
12pt cylinder head bolts on my CVCC Civic were double hex, so a cheap 12pt 
socket fit perfectly. 

Mitch. 

> On August 22, 2018 at 7:49 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> My '85 190D had triple square bolts on the inner axle joints. The bolts were 
> male requiring a female socket which I never could find.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

My '85 190D had triple square bolts on the inner axle joints. The bolts were 
male requiring a female socket which I never could find. Fred gave me some 
bolts with female triple square heads. The plan was to weld one of those into a 
socket, instead I farmed the job out...
-Curt
 

On Wednesday, August 22, 2018, 6:48:40 AM EDT, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Mitch & Larry, some of the suspension link fasteners need the special
socket bits (triple square?) on the later 124 cars, I don't remember if
they are the outer ends of the links or the inner ends but I do remember
them when I overhauled the rear suspension on my '95 and my '87.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 7:55 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to
> do to the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the
> hub, and thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines
> so it can stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No
> E-anything sockets needed.
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Mitch!

    So it's nice to hear that the outer CV flange is not bolted to the 
Carrier assy.   I guess add'l bolts aren't needed since it has that 30mm 
nut on the end of the axle.


Thanks again!

Larry


On 08/21/2018 7:55 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to do to 
the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the hub, and 
thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines so it can 
stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No E-anything 
sockets needed.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Mitch & Larry, some of the suspension link fasteners need the special
socket bits (triple square?) on the later 124 cars, I don't remember if
they are the outer ends of the links or the inner ends but I do remember
them when I overhauled the rear suspension on my '95 and my '87.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 7:55 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to
> do to the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the
> hub, and thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines
> so it can stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No
> E-anything sockets needed.
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to do to 
the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the hub, and 
thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines so it can 
stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No E-anything 
sockets needed. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Oh, no, no, no, no. ;-)  I was unclear somewhere else I don't have a 
good idea of my plan.


Let me try again:

 * Remove wheel
 * Unstake 30mm nut and remove C Clip.
 * Use small sledge to break axle shaft loose (spray liberally with
   penetrating fluid)
 * Remove rotor
 * Remove backing plate
 * Unbolt Outer CV joint from back of Carrier
 * Unbolt 5 point Suspension
 * Separate Tie rod and remove bolt.
 * Remove Carrier and take to Suspension shop and have then R the
   bearings.

I am not planning to attempt to remove the hub which is what I call the 
pressed on part that has the 5 lug bolt holes in it.


I hope I won't run into too much rust - so far the car has been rust 
free (except for the rear susp to chassis connection) but I plan to use 
penetrating early and often allowing it to soak...


Thanks gang!  Hopefully I hope I will have a chance to work on this 
later this week,  we're supposed to get a break in humidity Thurs.


Larry

91 300D



On 08/16/2018 8:52 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

So the plan is to leave the suspension alone, pull the axle out from the back, 
and press out the bearing in situ?

So you need the bearing tool and a means of removing both ends of the axle?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang!

The bolts that hold the outer CV flange to the carrier, are they what 
are called E10  (or E15) - as opposed toi the more standard Allen head 
bolts?


Still getting my tools ready --

Thanks ya'll!

LarryT


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

So the plan is to leave the suspension alone, pull the axle out from the back, 
and press out the bearing in situ?

So you need the bearing tool and a means of removing both ends of the axle?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,

I'm making sure I have the proper tools on hand so I can start the rear 
wheel brg R as soon as we get some cooler weather.


I will have the 12 pt axle nut socket later today and need to know what 
kind of heads the 6 bolts holding the axle shaft flange to the back of 
the carrier are.  It seems some use E10 fasteners but I don't want to 
buy a E10 socket unless I need it although quality sockets are less than $3.


Again - for a 1991 300D 2.5T (best car in the world)

LarryT

On 07/30/2018 7:42 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Here's the SIR B-90 in action.
I've seen the B-90 master kit offered for a bit under $600.
Not sure what the Mercedes only version sells for.
And I've seen no-name versions for under $400.

You can see the one inner bearing race on the hub flange after he pulls it out 
of the hub housing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0n_Cg_mbUQ


On July 29, 2018 at 11:11 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:


Sounds like I should leave it to a shop with a puller ;-)

Actually I am looking at the cost of the tools in case I am feeling
especially energetic after I get all the preliminary stuff out of the
way.  That's unlikely, but you never know...


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

Here's the SIR B-90 in action.
I've seen the B-90 master kit offered for a bit under $600.
Not sure what the Mercedes only version sells for. 
And I've seen no-name versions for under $400.

You can see the one inner bearing race on the hub flange after he pulls it out 
of the hub housing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0n_Cg_mbUQ

> On July 29, 2018 at 11:11 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Sounds like I should leave it to a shop with a puller ;-)
> 
> Actually I am looking at the cost of the tools in case I am feeling 
> especially energetic after I get all the preliminary stuff out of the 
> way.  That's unlikely, but you never know...
>

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Peter wrote (...take it to someone...)
That sounds like a plan!
Larry

My first attempt ended up and a local machine shop, and they were afraid they 
would damage the steering knuckle it was so stuck, I never managed to get it to 
move at all.  That was on my 75 Audi Fox -- great car until the floor pan fell 
out from rust.

I would take the wheel carrier off and take it to someone to have the new 
bearing installed and the hub put in.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

I have never been able to budge one of the hubs with a slide hammer.  A 
standard shop press works fine.  

My first attempt ended up and a local machine shop, and they were afraid they 
would damage the steering knuckle it was so stuck, I never managed to get it to 
move at all.  That was on my 75 Audi Fox -- great car until the floor pan fell 
out from rust.

I would take the wheel carrier off and take it to someone to have the new 
bearing installed and the hub put in.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Sounds like I should leave it to a shop with a puller ;-)

Actually I am looking at the cost of the tools in case I am feeling 
especially energetic after I get all the preliminary stuff out of the 
way.  That's unlikely, but you never know...


Thanks,

Larry


On 07/29/2018 10:20 PM, tyee165 via Mercedes wrote:

Cutting a race with a cold chisel is dangerous. They are hard and will shatter.


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 Date: 2018-07-29  7:20 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Larry Turner  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 
W124 Rear Wheel Bearing
If I can separate the hub from the carrier, I can probably cut the race
with a chisel and get it off that way.  But I may have to let the shop
do it.  We'll see.  Thanks for helping me think it through.  I know
everyone must be getting tired of my endless questions.  ;-^

Larryl


On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
pressed out.
The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
Sorry, no pics of that.
I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot of 
hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[tyee165 via Mercedes]

Cutting a race with a cold chisel is dangerous. They are hard and will shatter.


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 Date: 2018-07-29  7:20 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Larry Turner  Subject: Re: 
[MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing 
If I can separate the hub from the carrier, I can probably cut the race 
with a chisel and get it off that way.  But I may have to let the shop 
do it.  We'll see.  Thanks for helping me think it through.  I know 
everyone must be getting tired of my endless questions.  ;-^

Larryl


On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
> Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
> The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
> pressed out.
> The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
> I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
> Sorry, no pics of that.
> I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot 
> of hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).
>
> Mitch.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

If I can separate the hub from the carrier, I can probably cut the race 
with a chisel and get it off that way.  But I may have to let the shop 
do it.  We'll see.  Thanks for helping me think it through.  I know 
everyone must be getting tired of my endless questions.  ;-^


Larry


On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
pressed out.
The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
Sorry, no pics of that.
I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot of 
hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

glad to see the slide hammer worked for you!  I've heard horror stories 
and the YouTube videos show two big guys taking turns on the slide.


I think I'll end up letting my shop do the work.

Thanks -

Larry



On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
pressed out.
The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
Sorry, no pics of that.
I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot of 
hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Have a question about the Hub (the part with the holes for lug bolts) -- 
is there a race pressed onto the axle side of the hub?


Thanks


On 07/28/2018 11:21 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

A bit of light oil on the axle splines (or some neverseize), else everything it 
dry.
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Peter,

    Glad you are seeing real progress with your ankle!  You are 100% 
right about keeping the joint flexible, there's nothing like a natural 
kind of exercise like walking and swimming.  Then it's not so much of a 
chore.


    I need to get a membership at my local Y (I keep saying that but 
not following through) so I will have access to a pool  Of course I need 
to work on the logistics of getting from the car into the water, and 
getting back out again when I'm done.  Having a leg that's 3" shorter 
means it's hard to walk without my elevated shoe - and pools seem to 
discourage people wearing shoes in the pool. ;-)


Larry






On 07/28/2018 11:19 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Yeah, stairs really suck when your foot won't bend far enough.  The bounce is 
irritating and it's uncomfortable.  I can force it to normal ROM, so it's 
really just a matter of working on it.

Rough ground helps a lot, as it flexes my ankle under pressure.  It hurts, but 
the more I use it the better.

Even all the standing at a funeral today didn't cause it to swell, maybe I'll 
get back to somewhat normal soon!

I'm hoping to get the axle into the VW tomorrow night or Monday -- then it's on 
to the temp sensor and thermostat, it takes four miles to get up to operating 
temp in 90 degree weather

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

A bit of light oil on the axle splines (or some neverseize), else everything it 
dry.  
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Yeah, stairs really suck when your foot won't bend far enough.  The bounce is 
irritating and it's uncomfortable.  I can force it to normal ROM, so it's 
really just a matter of working on it.

Rough ground helps a lot, as it flexes my ankle under pressure.  It hurts, but 
the more I use it the better.

Even all the standing at a funeral today didn't cause it to swell, maybe I'll 
get back to somewhat normal soon!

I'm hoping to get the axle into the VW tomorrow night or Monday -- then it's on 
to the temp sensor and thermostat, it takes four miles to get up to operating 
temp in 90 degree weather

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

BTW, I assume no lubrication is needed except to put thin films on metal 
surfaces to easy assembly & to lube threads?


Thanks,

LarryT


On 07/28/2018 7:35 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Larry and Peter:  SOSDP  SOS, you know the meaning.  DP= Different 
people or different Place; Your choice.


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
I think you are right - he needs his meds!  I worked as a contract 
employee for 11 years after I was promised I would go direct when the 
census "opened up",  yeah, right, when it opened up my POS boss 
supported the hiring of a outsider who had political backing.  I was 
never the same after that.   "Bad Management" sums it up nicely.  
They brought new people in the VP level and they brought all of their 
people with them and on and on - making a lot of enemies and upset 
workers. But it's typical everywhere IMO.  Unfortunately.  You're 
right, there are few ways to change things --


I came down with the nerve disease a few years after all that and 
went out on disability.  I applied to Soc Sec shortly after and it 
went thru without any problems.   So I was lucky there.


I did a search for 30mm impact sockets/1/2 drive and there are many 
for less that $20.  There seems to be plenty out there.  I don't need 
a super high quality socket since I likely won't use it very much, 
but I don't want one that will break.  Luckily I have both air and 
electric impact wrenches and I'm pretty sure either will break the 
200-240nM loose.  My next door neighbor passed away a few years ago 
and before he died he gave me his lifetime collection of tools - at 
least the ones his sons didn't want. Fortunately, they weren't big on 
working w/their hands so I got lucky.  got a big collection of drills 
& taps.


Glad your R.O.M is improving, that's really important.  I had my knee 
up to 117 deg flexion but when I got the clot and stopped exercising 
I lost much of it.  The better the ROM the better the daily life is - 
even little things like getting in/out of a car.


Take care --

Larry


On 07/28/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
Thanks for the thoughts Larry.  Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do 
about it as the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm 
looking fo rsomething else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more 
years.  What can you say about someone who tell obvious lies that 
are provably false and goes into a rage when you prove him wrong?   
Root cause is bad management, as most of these situations are, and I 
don't see any way to fix it short of leaving the job after 18 
years.  Being a contract employee from an outside company doesn't 
help any.


I broke the fibula (the other calf bone) about two inches below the 
knee, so I'm OK as far as the knee goes.  Full range of motion is 
slowly returning, and for the first time since Dec 29th 2016, I 
didn't have significant swelling in my leg yesterday.


I will check on the socket, I'm in the same boat with my Golf, it 
needs a new axle, which I have, but it's also a 12 pt nut. My 
brother has something that worked on the Benz when I did an unneeded 
wheel bearing replacement at couple years ago, I'll see what it is 
and if it's a 12 pt where to get it.




Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

Larry and Peter:  SOSDP  SOS, you know the meaning.  DP= Different 
people or different Place; Your choice.


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
I think you are right - he needs his meds!  I worked as a contract 
employee for 11 years after I was promised I would go direct when the 
census "opened up",  yeah, right, when it opened up my POS boss 
supported the hiring of a outsider who had political backing.  I was 
never the same after that.   "Bad Management" sums it up nicely.  They 
brought new people in the VP level and they brought all of their 
people with them and on and on - making a lot of enemies and upset 
workers. But it's typical everywhere IMO.  Unfortunately.  You're 
right, there are few ways to change things --


I came down with the nerve disease a few years after all that and went 
out on disability.  I applied to Soc Sec shortly after and it went 
thru without any problems.   So I was lucky there.


I did a search for 30mm impact sockets/1/2 drive and there are many 
for less that $20.  There seems to be plenty out there.  I don't need 
a super high quality socket since I likely won't use it very much, but 
I don't want one that will break.  Luckily I have both air and 
electric impact wrenches and I'm pretty sure either will break the 
200-240nM loose.  My next door neighbor passed away a few years ago 
and before he died he gave me his lifetime collection of tools - at 
least the ones his sons didn't want. Fortunately, they weren't big on 
working w/their hands so I got lucky.  got a big collection of drills 
& taps.


Glad your R.O.M is improving, that's really important.  I had my knee 
up to 117 deg flexion but when I got the clot and stopped exercising I 
lost much of it.  The better the ROM the better the daily life is - 
even little things like getting in/out of a car.


Take care --

Larry


On 07/28/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
Thanks for the thoughts Larry.  Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do 
about it as the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm 
looking fo rsomething else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more 
years.  What can you say about someone who tell obvious lies that are 
provably false and goes into a rage when you prove him wrong?   Root 
cause is bad management, as most of these situations are, and I don't 
see any way to fix it short of leaving the job after 18 years.  Being 
a contract employee from an outside company doesn't help any.


I broke the fibula (the other calf bone) about two inches below the 
knee, so I'm OK as far as the knee goes.  Full range of motion is 
slowly returning, and for the first time since Dec 29th 2016, I 
didn't have significant swelling in my leg yesterday.


I will check on the socket, I'm in the same boat with my Golf, it 
needs a new axle, which I have, but it's also a 12 pt nut.  My 
brother has something that worked on the Benz when I did an unneeded 
wheel bearing replacement at couple years ago, I'll see what it is 
and if it's a 12 pt where to get it.




Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I think you are right - he needs his meds!  I worked as a contract 
employee for 11 years after I was promised I would go direct when the 
census "opened up",  yeah, right, when it opened up my POS boss 
supported the hiring of a outsider who had political backing.  I was 
never the same after that.   "Bad Management" sums it up nicely.  They 
brought new people in the VP level and they brought all of their people 
with them and on and on - making a lot of enemies and upset workers. But 
it's typical everywhere IMO.  Unfortunately.  You're right, there are 
few ways to change things --


I came down with the nerve disease a few years after all that and went 
out on disability.  I applied to Soc Sec shortly after and it went thru 
without any problems.   So I was lucky there.


I did a search for 30mm impact sockets/1/2 drive and there are many for 
less that $20.  There seems to be plenty out there.  I don't need a 
super high quality socket since I likely won't use it very much, but I 
don't want one that will break.  Luckily I have both air and electric 
impact wrenches and I'm pretty sure either will break the 200-240nM 
loose.  My next door neighbor passed away a few years ago and before he 
died he gave me his lifetime collection of tools - at least the ones his 
sons didn't want. Fortunately, they weren't big on working w/their hands 
so I got lucky.  got a big collection of drills & taps.


Glad your R.O.M is improving, that's really important.  I had my knee up 
to 117 deg flexion but when I got the clot and stopped exercising I lost 
much of it.  The better the ROM the better the daily life is - even 
little things like getting in/out of a car.


Take care --

Larry


On 07/28/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Thanks for the thoughts Larry.  Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do about it as 
the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm looking fo rsomething 
else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more years.  What can you say about 
someone who tell obvious lies that are provably false and goes into a rage when 
you prove him wrong?   Root cause is bad management, as most of these 
situations are, and I don't see any way to fix it short of leaving the job 
after 18 years.  Being a contract employee from an outside company doesn't help 
any.

I broke the fibula (the other calf bone) about two inches below the knee, so 
I'm OK as far as the knee goes.  Full range of motion is slowly returning, and 
for the first time since Dec 29th 2016, I didn't have significant swelling in 
my leg yesterday.

I will check on the socket, I'm in the same boat with my Golf, it needs a new 
axle, which I have, but it's also a 12 pt nut.  My brother has something that 
worked on the Benz when I did an unneeded wheel bearing replacement at couple 
years ago, I'll see what it is and if it's a 12 pt where to get it.




Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Thanks for the thoughts Larry.  Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do about it as 
the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm looking fo rsomething 
else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more years.  What can you say about 
someone who tell obvious lies that are provably false and goes into a rage when 
you prove him wrong?   Root cause is bad management, as most of these 
situations are, and I don't see any way to fix it short of leaving the job 
after 18 years.  Being a contract employee from an outside company doesn't help 
any.

I broke the fibula (the other calf bone) about two inches below the knee, so 
I'm OK as far as the knee goes.  Full range of motion is slowly returning, and 
for the first time since Dec 29th 2016, I didn't have significant swelling in 
my leg yesterday.  

I will check on the socket, I'm in the same boat with my Golf, it needs a new 
axle, which I have, but it's also a 12 pt nut.  My brother has something that 
worked on the Benz when I did an unneeded wheel bearing replacement at couple 
years ago, I'll see what it is and if it's a 12 pt where to get it.  

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

Hmm... your experience at work sounds like my wife  the year before she 
retired - people changed and the new ones knew it all as in your case.  
Her new boss didn't want to get rid of her he just didn't have a clue!  
She started to hate getting up in the morning & going to work.  I 
finally told her to retire all ready and we'd be ok financially.  It's 
sad how things have become so similar all over.


Glad to hear your ankle is getting better!    You wrote "broke the small 
bone up near the knee," - I hope it wasn't one of the bones that make up 
the "crown" on the top of the tibia that keeps the knee centered on the 
tibia?  That's where my trouble started. Of course it doesn't sound like 
you are allergic to the bone cement so it will continue to go smoothly!


I hope your recovery continues without any hiccup (I'll add you to 
my list of people I pray for) ;-)


re: the RWB - I need to get a 30mm impart socket but most I see ate 6 pt 
and the nut is 12 pt.  I know the 12 pt will fit the 6pt but I'm not 
sure about vice versa.  Any idea?


Larry



On 07/27/2018 11:12 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Larry:

The ankle is OK, but still gives me fits once in a while.  Been a year and a 
half now, and I've been told that's pretty normal.  Some arthritis in it, 
probably there before I broke it.  Stepped on a log in the drive taking the 
trash out from the garage at night -- I knew they were there, planning on 
cutting them up for cedar linings, but had a car parked and decided to take the 
short way to the road.  Big mistake.

I broke the corner off the tibia, and broke the small bone up near the knee, 
and dislocated my foot pretty well, had to have two sets of screws to hold the 
bones together for the tendons to heal.  Naturally, I broke one of the screws 
when I started walking on it 7 weeks later, and had to have that one dug out 
from the other side in the second surgery.

Not fun at all.  However, even with all the nuttiness at work, today was pretty 
good -- no significant swelling of that foot for the first time in a year and a 
half.  The pain moves around, didn't know that there were so many things in an 
ankle that could hurt that bad.

Getting old is definitely not for the weak of heart!  I've got four more years 
to SS age, and it can't get here soon enough.  I'm fed up with the shenanigans 
at work (new lab techs, half of whom think they know everything and I'm stupid, 
again) and a sort of boss who is trying to get rid of me because I've proved 
him wrong a couple times -- don't you just love insecure people?

Looking for another job, this one is about over for me, I'm not sure I can face 
another round of persuading fairly dense people I know what I'm doing.

Come on 2022!

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Larry:

The ankle is OK, but still gives me fits once in a while.  Been a year and a 
half now, and I've been told that's pretty normal.  Some arthritis in it, 
probably there before I broke it.  Stepped on a log in the drive taking the 
trash out from the garage at night -- I knew they were there, planning on 
cutting them up for cedar linings, but had a car parked and decided to take the 
short way to the road.  Big mistake.

I broke the corner off the tibia, and broke the small bone up near the knee, 
and dislocated my foot pretty well, had to have two sets of screws to hold the 
bones together for the tendons to heal.  Naturally, I broke one of the screws 
when I started walking on it 7 weeks later, and had to have that one dug out 
from the other side in the second surgery.

Not fun at all.  However, even with all the nuttiness at work, today was pretty 
good -- no significant swelling of that foot for the first time in a year and a 
half.  The pain moves around, didn't know that there were so many things in an 
ankle that could hurt that bad.

Getting old is definitely not for the weak of heart!  I've got four more years 
to SS age, and it can't get here soon enough.  I'm fed up with the shenanigans 
at work (new lab techs, half of whom think they know everything and I'm stupid, 
again) and a sort of boss who is trying to get rid of me because I've proved 
him wrong a couple times -- don't you just love insecure people?

Looking for another job, this one is about over for me, I'm not sure I can face 
another round of persuading fairly dense people I know what I'm doing.

Come on 2022!  

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

    I hope you ankle is better now?  You must have had to stay off it 
for quite a while?  I have a friend who is very heavy - like around 
400#'s or so and he put his foot down at an angle and it fractured.   He 
won't stick to his diet, and is diabetic and in a wheel chair for now 
on. I suspect he'll never walk again.  Nice guy but no self control.


    A couple of other things.  I have a nerve disease like Wilton.  It 
caused me to get blisters on my toes because of an external numbness.  
After a year and a half trying to get the blisters to heal they were 
infected and much of the bone had osteomyelitis which is like rust in 
bones, so they came off.   So I know all about phantom pain.  I think it 
is worse than the original pain but I really didn't have any options.   
I've tried all kinds of things and nothing really works for nerve pain. 
Lyrica is the only thing that takes the edge off.  I went so far that I 
had a pump implanted in an attempt to control it but over the last year 
I've been reducing it a little at a time because it's just not 
effective.  Plus there's unpleasant side affects associated with any 
med.  Especially narcotics.


    After I was told about the allergy, I learned they only have 1 
cement approved by who ever approves them.  So we had to go with a press 
fit.  Hopefully is remains stable for a long time.


    Like they say, getting old ain't for sissies.

    Well, enough about that depressing stuff - how about we talk about 
cheerful stuff like the plague or something? ;-)


    BTW, Found a bearing set at Autohaus az for $57 but it's a FAG...  
RockAuto is starting to look pretty good.  Also, you mentioned putting 
heat on the bolts to break them loose - I hope a propane will produce 
enough heat?


Larry


On 07/27/2018 6:39 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Yikes, what a mess.  Being allergic to the bone cement would be a very bad 
thing.

I would want to keep your leg, although we have a friend who has the fake femur 
(due to extensive radiation for  soft tissue sarcoma followed by a bad break 
that would not heal), so it's possible.  Not a lot of fun, but better than not 
being able to walk.  Prosthetics are another whole ball of wax you don't want 
to have to deal with, I think.

And I've heard that phantom pain after the amputation can be pretty bad, too, 
with no more cure than what you have now, it's from the severed nerves.

Hope it gets better, I hated being unable to do much while I was recovering 
from my broken ankle last year.





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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Yikes, what a mess.  Being allergic to the bone cement would be a very bad 
thing.

I would want to keep your leg, although we have a friend who has the fake femur 
(due to extensive radiation for  soft tissue sarcoma followed by a bad break 
that would not heal), so it's possible.  Not a lot of fun, but better than not 
being able to walk.  Prosthetics are another whole ball of wax you don't want 
to have to deal with, I think.

And I've heard that phantom pain after the amputation can be pretty bad, too, 
with no more cure than what you have now, it's from the severed nerves.

Hope it gets better, I hated being unable to do much while I was recovering 
from my broken ankle last year.





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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Original Message:

What happened?  Did you break your arm trying to get some money out of 
your wallet?


--R


True, while I am known far and wide as being cheap, this time my arm was 
OK as I didn't even try to reach for my wallet.  Actually I prefer the 
word Frugal.


My immobility came from a fall (I think) about 10 years ago that damaged 
the bones near the top of my tibia.  It's called a Tibial Plateau 
Fracture.  It is a small crack & was very hard to see.  We needed a Cat 
Scan to find it.  I never did see a cat. Since we thought it might be 
arthritis, I kept walking until the Cat scan showed the fracture.  By 
then I had been walking on it (hobbling) for about 3 weeks which 
destroyed the knee.  Then the seemingly never ending string of knee 
replacements started.  Have had 4 total knee replacements and 1 where a 
antibiotic stint was put in place for about 6 weeks while testing was 
being done.  They tested for infection and allergies.  Turned out I am 
allergic to the bone cement they use, no infection.  That was given as 
the cause for the 1st 2 knee failures.  #3 I was not told why it failed 
and I still have #4.    About a week after #4 was put in (June 2017) 
x-rays showed the prosthetic had slipped upward into my Femur so I was 
told to delay PT and stay off my feet for 6-8 weeks.  It looks like the 
Prosthetic has stabilized and stopped moving.  If that had continued, 
one option was to replace my hip, put a rod between the hip and knee and 
keep my lower leg.  I hate the idea of removing a perfectly good hip so 
thankfully that option if off the table for now.


Had a blood clot in March 18 and a weak staf infection in that knee.  
Hopefully the antibiotics will cure the infection otherwise I'll likely 
lose my leg.


And that, my friends, is how I came to be disabled.  I have recently 
been thinking I might be better off if they removed my leg above the 
knee.   At least the pain would stop and I could be more mobile than I 
am now (I think).  But I'm sure there are plenty of unintended 
consequences in something like that...


Anyone have experience with amputation who might share the problems it 
caused?


LarryT


On 07/04/2018 9:42 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

What happened?  Did you break your arm trying to get some money out of your 
wallet?

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Jul 4, 2018, at 9:23 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a walker and 
some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be getting on the ground to 
work on the car (with hopes of getting up again).

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

good to have you back.   We hope you are soon running around like an 18 
year old kid.   I don't have a 124 to look at until  fall.   Maybe 
someone else can provide the step by step


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Curley McLain wrote:

The axle brg. is not that hard. take off the wheel carrier, take it 
and the bearing to a good alignment or general repair shop and have 
them press out the old, and push in the new...


Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a 
walker and some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be 
getting on the ground to work on the car (with hopes of getting up 
again).


I would like to revisit possible repairs to our beloved 91 300D.   You 
may recall I was told by my Indy that the rear suspension was 
separated from the rear suspension at  the connection point.  I 
started to take it to a local shop to put it on a lift but the battery 
is dead and refuses to take a charge. But I will address that.  If I 
can find a reasonable way to repair the rear suspension disconnect 
from the body economically, I will need to repair the rear wheel 
bearing.  Yes I am confident that is the problem.


So while I have several steps to complete before putting it back on 
the road, one of the problems is replacing the rear wheel bearing 
which requires a press and the tool to remove the old bearing.  So, I 
am looking at removing the rear hub so I can take it to a local 
suspension shop I have used.  I would like step by step instructions 
for removing and re-installing the rear hubs.


No rush, anytime you have and feel like writing the procedure down is 
great!  I appreciate the help as always.


So, there are numerous steps I need to finish the following:

1.  Charge or replace battery.

2. Evaluate rust damage where rear suspension and chassis connect.  
Repair if appropriate.  If repairable, move to step 3.


3. Remove Rear hub, take to shop to have new bearing installed. 
Re-install rear hub.


On the road again!!  Willy Nelson sings as I drive into the sunset..  ;-)

TIA Guys!

LarryT

91 300D 2.5T


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

OK sounds good but I may need a pc of pipe to break to30mm nut loose ;-)

Thanks for the help!

LarryT

91 300D


On 07/06/2018 7:58 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

So long as the shock is in place the spring link cannot drop too far.  So don't 
take the shock out.

Replaced a couple rear wheel bearings on the TE a few years ago, it's not bad 
other than the parking brake links, without the MB tools it's a pain to get 
them all back correctly.
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

On removing the rear suspension springs: The basic concept is to have the
wheels on the ground, disconnect the shock (either in the trunk or from the
lower control arm), and then jack up the rear of the car with a floor jack
under the differential.  In this way, as the car is raised up but the wheel
and lower (spring link) control arm are allowed to drop, all the tension is
safely removed from the spring.

I do believe you will have to disconnect the brake line as well, prior to
the jacking / lowering operation.

-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

So long as the shock is in place the spring link cannot drop too far.  So don't 
take the shock out.

Replaced a couple rear wheel bearings on the TE a few years ago, it's not bad 
other than the parking brake links, without the MB tools it's a pain to get 
them all back correctly.
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Peter!  I have the Tuning Fork type and the clamp type (not sure 
of its real name).  Knowing these details really help me plan if it will 
be something I want to attempt.  So far, it's looking good...  ;-)


So as long as I put a jack or jack stand under the spring there's no 
danger of it popping out?  I think I know the answer is "Correct" but 
like to get confirmation from others.


No. No plan to remove the spring - if it ain't broke

re: tightening the links with the tire jacked up to normal height - I 
hate to admit it but while I know of the reqmnt to have the car on level 
ground, I had not thought about raising the tire with a jack to get 
there!  As always, I appreciate your thoughts!


Thanks again,

LarryT



On 07/05/2018 6:38 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Leave the shock mount bolt alone if you are not planning to remove the spring, 
it does not need to come out.

You will need to unbolt the links for the suspension (camber, thrust, longitudinal, 
spring link, tie rod) -- tie rod will require a tie rod end tool, I prefer the 
"lever" type.

Remove axle nut on the ground, you will need to use a punch to "undent" it.  
You will also need a new nut to put back on.

So, remove axle nut, jack up and remove caliper and rotor.  Rotor is almost always very 
stuck, a good "smoke wrench" is your friend here, heat a spot near a bolt hole 
nice and hot and it will pop off.  Remove the allen head screw before attempting to 
remove the rotor.  Usually necessary to back the parking brake shoes off a little using 
the star wheel visible through a lug bolt hole.

Once you get the rotor off, remove the parking brake shoes.  This is a pain, be 
careful to remember how all the bits go together.  Once you have the parking 
brakes off, drive the axle back a little bit, it doens't need to go far, just 
be loose.  Unbolt the links on the wheel carrier and get the tie rod end out.  
Check all the links for worn bushings, this is the time to replace them.

Pull wheel carrier and hub off, supporting the axle.  DO NOT pull the inner 
joint apart, it's never the same after...

If you do change any links, they must stay loose until you have all of them in 
place, then jack the wheel carrier up to normal ride height and tighten them 
all.  Failure to do this will result in very strange ride and premature wear on 
the bushings, they act as springs.

Have fun!
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Leave the shock mount bolt alone if you are not planning to remove the spring, 
it does not need to come out.

You will need to unbolt the links for the suspension (camber, thrust, 
longitudinal, spring link, tie rod) -- tie rod will require a tie rod end tool, 
I prefer the "lever" type.

Remove axle nut on the ground, you will need to use a punch to "undent" it.  
You will also need a new nut to put back on.

So, remove axle nut, jack up and remove caliper and rotor.  Rotor is almost 
always very stuck, a good "smoke wrench" is your friend here, heat a spot near 
a bolt hole nice and hot and it will pop off.  Remove the allen head screw 
before attempting to remove the rotor.  Usually necessary to back the parking 
brake shoes off a little using the star wheel visible through a lug bolt hole.

Once you get the rotor off, remove the parking brake shoes.  This is a pain, be 
careful to remember how all the bits go together.  Once you have the parking 
brakes off, drive the axle back a little bit, it doens't need to go far, just 
be loose.  Unbolt the links on the wheel carrier and get the tie rod end out.  
Check all the links for worn bushings, this is the time to replace them.

Pull wheel carrier and hub off, supporting the axle.  DO NOT pull the inner 
joint apart, it's never the same after...

If you do change any links, they must stay loose until you have all of them in 
place, then jack the wheel carrier up to normal ride height and tighten them 
all.  Failure to do this will result in very strange ride and premature wear on 
the bushings, they act as springs.

Have fun!
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I second Karl's vote of Thanks!  That was a very descriptive post.

I am still in the planning stages and have been studying pdf 35-115 and 
have a few questions (as I always do) ;-)


After I unbolt the things you suggested (lower shock absorber mount and 
spring link bearing in the wheel carrier, lower spring link), I think my 
next steps would be:  unbolt the axle from the brake side of things, 
remove the caliper and hang it and remove the brake rotor.  Next, it 
looks like I remove the rotor, then unbolt the emergency brake parts and 
cable and the brake backing plate.  Then it looks like I disconnect the 
4 or 5 fasteners which will allow removal of the bearing carrier.  I can 
then take the bearing carrier to a suspension shop who will R the 
bearing?


Is that the basics?   It's been a while since I had a wheel off and even 
longer since I replaced rear brake pads but after seeing the diagrams in 
the pdf's I remember the complexity of the bearing carrier!    Once I 
have disturbed all these fasteners, I would think I will need a rear 
wheel alignment as well...


Anyway, I know I glossed over some of the details - which often are very 
difficult - but I hope I am getting close?


TIA,

LarryT

91 300D


On 07/04/2018 9:21 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:

completely un-compress and can be removed by hand.  If you want to use a



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

That's very helpful Peter. Thanks.

Karl

On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 11:20 AM Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I don't think you need one.  Support spring link with a jack while the car
> is up on jackstands or on a life, unbolt lower shock absorber mount and
> spring link bearing in the wheel carrier, lower spring link.  Spring will
> completely un-compress and can be removed by hand.  If you want to use a
> spring compressor, it will have to be a Klann or copy, nothing else will
> work.  Will have to dig up my digital copy of the manual to check for sure,
> but I believe the spring will completely de-compress once you lower the
> spring link.
>
> Installation is the reverse.
>
> Fronts require a spring compressor, and I recommend the Klann internal one
> or a good copy.
>
> Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Randy,

Larry's in Va - near Petersburg and Richmond.


On 07/04/2018 11:37 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:

So, where is Larry?
Any of you folks close enough to go and give him a bit of help?

RB

On 04/07/2018 8:23 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Curley McLain wrote:

The axle brg. is not that hard. take off the wheel carrier, take it 
and the bearing to a good alignment or general repair shop and have 
them press out the old, and push in the new...


Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a 
walker and some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be 
getting on the ground to work on the car (with hopes of getting up 
again).


I would like to revisit possible repairs to our beloved 91 300D. You 
may recall I was told by my Indy that the rear suspension was 
separated from the rear suspension at  the connection point.  I 
started to take it to a local shop to put it on a lift but the 
battery is dead and refuses to take a charge. But I will address 
that.  If I can find a reasonable way to repair the rear suspension 
disconnect from the body economically, I will need to repair the rear 
wheel bearing.  Yes I am confident that is the problem.


So while I have several steps to complete before putting it back on 
the road, one of the problems is replacing the rear wheel bearing 
which requires a press and the tool to remove the old bearing.  So, I 
am looking at removing the rear hub so I can take it to a local 
suspension shop I have used.  I would like step by step instructions 
for removing and re-installing the rear hubs.


No rush, anytime you have and feel like writing the procedure down is 
great!  I appreciate the help as always.


So, there are numerous steps I need to finish the following:

1.  Charge or replace battery.

2. Evaluate rust damage where rear suspension and chassis connect.  
Repair if appropriate.  If repairable, move to step 3.


3. Remove Rear hub, take to shop to have new bearing installed. 
Re-install rear hub.


On the road again!!  Willy Nelson sings as I drive into the sunset..  
;-)


TIA Guys!

LarryT

91 300D 2.5T


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

If I can get the carrier off, a shop should be able to press the old one 
out and a new one in right?  Gotcha, I will get a Spring Link if I get 
that far...


Thanks for all the help..

LarryT



On 07/04/2018 9:57 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Take the wheel carrier off and use a press.  I've never been able to get the 
hub out with a slide hammer, and I've screwed with these since about 1980.  The 
bearing is usually rusted in well enough you have to use a press to get that 
out too.

Replace the bearing for the spring link while you have it out, it's unlikely to 
be very good if the wheel bearing has worn out.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

I don't think you need one.  Support spring link with a jack while the car is 
up on jackstands or on a life, unbolt lower shock absorber mount and spring 
link bearing in the wheel carrier, lower spring link.  Spring will completely 
un-compress and can be removed by hand.  If you want to use a spring 
compressor, it will have to be a Klann or copy, nothing else will work.  Will 
have to dig up my digital copy of the manual to check for sure, but I believe 
the spring will completely de-compress once you lower the spring link.

Installation is the reverse.

Fronts require a spring compressor, and I recommend the Klann internal one or a 
good copy.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Peter what is the recommended spring compressor to avoid death while doing
rear suspension work on a 124? I bought a set of those urethane bushings
from Poland so I plan to redo quite a bit of stuff. Thanks.

On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 6:57 AM Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Take the wheel carrier off and use a press.  I've never been able to get
> the hub out with a slide hammer, and I've screwed with these since about
> 1980.  The bearing is usually rusted in well enough you have to use a press
> to get that out too.
>
> Replace the bearing for the spring link while you have it out, it's
> unlikely to be very good if the wheel bearing has worn out.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

So, where is Larry?
Any of you folks close enough to go and give him a bit of help?

RB

On 04/07/2018 8:23 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Curley McLain wrote:

The axle brg. is not that hard. take off the wheel carrier, take it 
and the bearing to a good alignment or general repair shop and have 
them press out the old, and push in the new...


Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a 
walker and some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be 
getting on the ground to work on the car (with hopes of getting up 
again).


I would like to revisit possible repairs to our beloved 91 300D. You 
may recall I was told by my Indy that the rear suspension was 
separated from the rear suspension at  the connection point.  I 
started to take it to a local shop to put it on a lift but the battery 
is dead and refuses to take a charge. But I will address that.  If I 
can find a reasonable way to repair the rear suspension disconnect 
from the body economically, I will need to repair the rear wheel 
bearing.  Yes I am confident that is the problem.


So while I have several steps to complete before putting it back on 
the road, one of the problems is replacing the rear wheel bearing 
which requires a press and the tool to remove the old bearing.  So, I 
am looking at removing the rear hub so I can take it to a local 
suspension shop I have used.  I would like step by step instructions 
for removing and re-installing the rear hubs.


No rush, anytime you have and feel like writing the procedure down is 
great!  I appreciate the help as always.


So, there are numerous steps I need to finish the following:

1.  Charge or replace battery.

2. Evaluate rust damage where rear suspension and chassis connect.  
Repair if appropriate.  If repairable, move to step 3.


3. Remove Rear hub, take to shop to have new bearing installed. 
Re-install rear hub.


On the road again!!  Willy Nelson sings as I drive into the sunset..  ;-)

TIA Guys!

LarryT

91 300D 2.5T


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Peter Frederick via Mercedes]

Take the wheel carrier off and use a press.  I've never been able to get the 
hub out with a slide hammer, and I've screwed with these since about 1980.  The 
bearing is usually rusted in well enough you have to use a press to get that 
out too.

Replace the bearing for the spring link while you have it out, it's unlikely to 
be very good if the wheel bearing has worn out.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

What happened?  Did you break your arm trying to get some money out of your 
wallet?

--R
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2018, at 9:23 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)
> 
> I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a walker and 
> some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be getting on the ground 
> to work on the car (with hopes of getting up again).

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

    One more thing, I looked at the Pelican Description of removing the 
wheel bearing and they talk about the rear hub being a bear to remove.  
Is that the case?  They suggest a slide hammer.  I was hoping for 
something I could unbolt.  Not possible?


Thanks,

LarryT


On 07/04/2018 9:23 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Curley McLain wrote:

The axle brg. is not that hard. take off the wheel carrier, take it 
and the bearing to a good alignment or general repair shop and have 
them press out the old, and push in the new...


Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a 
walker and some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be 
getting on the ground to work on the car (with hopes of getting up 
again).


I would like to revisit possible repairs to our beloved 91 300D. You 
may recall I was told by my Indy that the rear suspension was 
separated from the rear suspension at  the connection point.  I 
started to take it to a local shop to put it on a lift but the battery 
is dead and refuses to take a charge. But I will address that.  If I 
can find a reasonable way to repair the rear suspension disconnect 
from the body economically, I will need to repair the rear wheel 
bearing.  Yes I am confident that is the problem.


So while I have several steps to complete before putting it back on 
the road, one of the problems is replacing the rear wheel bearing 
which requires a press and the tool to remove the old bearing.  So, I 
am looking at removing the rear hub so I can take it to a local 
suspension shop I have used.  I would like step by step instructions 
for removing and re-installing the rear hubs.


No rush, anytime you have and feel like writing the procedure down is 
great!  I appreciate the help as always.


So, there are numerous steps I need to finish the following:

1.  Charge or replace battery.

2. Evaluate rust damage where rear suspension and chassis connect.  
Repair if appropriate.  If repairable, move to step 3.


3. Remove Rear hub, take to shop to have new bearing installed. 
Re-install rear hub.


On the road again!!  Willy Nelson sings as I drive into the sunset..  ;-)

TIA Guys!

LarryT

91 300D 2.5T


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[MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Curley McLain wrote:

The axle brg. is not that hard. take off the wheel carrier, take it and 
the bearing to a good alignment or general repair shop and have them 
press out the old, and push in the new...


Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a 
walker and some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be 
getting on the ground to work on the car (with hopes of getting up again).


I would like to revisit possible repairs to our beloved 91 300D.   You 
may recall I was told by my Indy that the rear suspension was separated 
from the rear suspension at  the connection point.  I started to take it 
to a local shop to put it on a lift but the battery is dead and refuses 
to take a charge. But I will address that.  If I can find a reasonable 
way to repair the rear suspension disconnect from the body economically, 
I will need to repair the rear wheel bearing.  Yes I am confident that 
is the problem.


So while I have several steps to complete before putting it back on the 
road, one of the problems is replacing the rear wheel bearing which 
requires a press and the tool to remove the old bearing.  So, I am 
looking at removing the rear hub so I can take it to a local suspension 
shop I have used.  I would like step by step instructions for removing 
and re-installing the rear hubs.


No rush, anytime you have and feel like writing the procedure down is 
great!  I appreciate the help as always.


So, there are numerous steps I need to finish the following:

1.  Charge or replace battery.

2. Evaluate rust damage where rear suspension and chassis connect.  
Repair if appropriate.  If repairable, move to step 3.


3. Remove Rear hub, take to shop to have new bearing installed. 
Re-install rear hub.


On the road again!!  Willy Nelson sings as I drive into the sunset..  ;-)

TIA Guys!

LarryT

91 300D 2.5T


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Great option Curley, Thanks

On 5/14/17 1:00 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
A used carrier (with bearing) is probably $25 ro $50 at the knackers. 
That makes a good alternative, and no special tools needed.



Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
May 14, 2017 at 9:26 AM
BTW $700 isn't even two months car payment. It's almost always 
cheaper to keep an old car than to buy a new one, consider also the 
added insurance cost of the new one.

As they say "it's cheaper to keep her."

Curt


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Curley,
Yep, and if buying a new car makes sense the better choice is a car 
a few years old so the depreciation has been absorbed by someone 
else.The manufacturers certified used cars (or whatever name they 
use) needs more individual analysis before deciding if they are a best 
deal or not.  But I guess someone has to buy new cars,  else we'd never 
have a pool of used cars to choose from...


We considered leasing a new car then buying it after the 3 or 4 yr 
lease but it all depends on the residual value and the "Fees" the dealer 
and manufacturer adds in.


My good friend has a good way to buy a new car though - once he 
decides on the car and options he goes to each dealer in the area, tells 
them what he wants and asks for a "drive it off the lot, all in, 
everything included, how much do I write the check for price?" and tells 
them they get one and only 1 chance, no negotiation, no counter offers, 
Period.  He's done that on a number of cars and never has to bother with 
arguing with a dealership about their so-called "Dealer prep fees" (or 
whatever they call it at the moment)  which was always embedded in the 
price before and still is IMO, but they have found a way to add another 
$400 or more profit to their side.  All they do is send a min. wage 
newbie to DMV to obtain licenses and registration. A 20 min job at the 
most.  I think it's a big profit maker for them which is why they push 
back so hard when it is questioned.


Anyway, that's his method which has worked several times over the 
past 20 years.  As far as I can tell he always gets a great deal.  And 
being able to have a no-nonsense price to write a check for removes a 
lot of stress IMO.   Most people don't consider this kind of approach 
for a variety of reasons - they don't think of it, think they can't get 
a load and the most important is their eyes glaze over when the dealer 
starts talking about monthly payments that are in their price range. 
After that, it's often "Where do I sign?"   Unfortunately a lot of 
people only consider the monthly car or lease payments and don't 
understand residual until they must turn the car in and come up with 
thousands of  $$'s.  But we all know there's big money in car sales - 
many dealership owners are billionaires.


LarryT
91 300D
66 MGB
74 911
My own personal used car lot.  ;-)

On 5/14/17 10:39 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
And in many states, the cost of the license plate.  Here a new car 
plate is 6 to 10 times, or even 20 or 30 times more than an old car.
Then there is sales tax, or whatever pseudonym the state uses to 
disguise sales tax.


I figured out it was much cheaper to keep spare cars than to own a 
newish one.



Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
May 14, 2017 at 9:26 AM
BTW $700 isn't even two months car payment. It's almost always 
cheaper to keep an old car than to buy a new one, consider also the 
added insurance cost of the new one.

As they say "it's cheaper to keep her."

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, May 13, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Jim Cathey via 
Mercedes wrote: >



By all accounts this is a real bastard of a job, and requires a special
tool.

-- Jim
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Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
May 13, 2017 at 6:01 PM


By all accounts this is a real bastard of a job, and requires a special
tool.

-- Jim
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Larry Turner via Mercedes 
May 13, 2017 at 1:57 PM
Hi Gang,
I sent this a few days ago but it never appeared - must be lost in 
cyberspace I guess?
Anyway, I am getting a whine at highway speeds (above 45mph) and my 
indy said they thought it was the rear wheel bearings which would run 
around $700.  That's a lot too spend on a 26 year old car.  But it  
is a MB diesel so I am considering it.  Before I allow the indy to 
work on it I was wondering how big a job it is?  Didn't see anything 
in the Archives so here I am.


What dya say gang?

LarryT
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

yep, and in Va., we have to pay personal prop tax yearly on a car.   
you're right about having mucho to consider - we went thru the process 
when a 240D - was our DD.i hate the thought of retiring the 300D - 
it's been an such awesome car.  wish i'd been able to buy it new. or a 
new one now.  hopefully i can find a newer used MB Diesel


thx for the comments.
Larry


On 5/14/17 10:26 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

BTW $700 isn't even two months car payment. It's almost always cheaper to keep 
an old car than to buy a new one, consider also the added insurance cost of the 
new one.
As they say "it's cheaper to keep her."

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
  
   On Sat, May 13, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:   >

rear wheel bearings which would run around $700.  That's a lot to spend on
a 26 year old car.


By all accounts this is a real bastard of a job, and requires a special
tool.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

And when you move them to storage status, does USAA's computer tell the state's 
computer that the car no longer has the required liability insurance?

That was my problem, she never told FB's computer to insure the cars, so FB's 
computer never told the state's computer the cars were insured. 

I just never understood why it took the state's computer five months instead of 
five days to send me a nastygram in the mail about it.

Mitch. 

> On May 14, 2017 at 9:41 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> With USAA I can move cars to storage status which is a small about like $25 
> for 6 months.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

State Farm would let me do that when I was using them.  Handy for stuff like 
winter storage.

-D

> On May 14, 2017, at 9:41 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> With USAA I can move cars to storage status which is a small about like $25 
> for 6 months.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

With USAA I can move cars to storage status which is a small about like $25 for 
6 months.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 14, 2017, at 8:03 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
>> On May 14, 2017 at 12:01 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Here in FL registration is about $50-$70/year depending on weight regardless 
>> of value. The problem with having a late model “spare” car is the cost of 
>> insurance.  If it wasn’t for my stuff being older and having a Hagerty 
>> policy on it I couldn’t do it, as the cost would be no different from all my 
>> other cars.
> 
> When I was working I had two cars insured, and I actually drove the S420 to 
> the office 3-4 times last winter. Now I just have one car insured, if I want 
> to drive the S420, I can call up my agent and tell them to move the liability 
> insurance to the S420 for a week or two. Actually I need to do that now, it's 
> got over half a tank of butane laced winter gas in it and the weather's 
> getting warm. 
> 
> Never had any trouble taking insurance off registered cars when I wasn't 
> driving them, except for when the state canceled two of my plates last summer 
> because they didn't think the cars were covered on the day I bought the 
> plates. Turns out when I asked my agent for 3 day proofs of insurance before 
> my birthday, his assistant just printed the proofs without actually adding 
> the cars to my policy. Five months later, I got a couple of letters from the 
> state, if I didn't prove the cars had valid insurance on my birthday, they 
> were revoking my plates. I called my agent, who told me not to mail my proof 
> of insurance paperwork to the state because it was phony. Oops. 
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On May 14, 2017 at 12:01 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Here in FL registration is about $50-$70/year depending on weight regardless 
> of value. The problem with having a late model “spare” car is the cost of 
> insurance.  If it wasn’t for my stuff being older and having a Hagerty policy 
> on it I couldn’t do it, as the cost would be no different from all my other 
> cars.

When I was working I had two cars insured, and I actually drove the S420 to the 
office 3-4 times last winter. Now I just have one car insured, if I want to 
drive the S420, I can call up my agent and tell them to move the liability 
insurance to the S420 for a week or two. Actually I need to do that now, it's 
got over half a tank of butane laced winter gas in it and the weather's getting 
warm. 

Never had any trouble taking insurance off registered cars when I wasn't 
driving them, except for when the state canceled two of my plates last summer 
because they didn't think the cars were covered on the day I bought the plates. 
Turns out when I asked my agent for 3 day proofs of insurance before my 
birthday, his assistant just printed the proofs without actually adding the 
cars to my policy. Five months later, I got a couple of letters from the state, 
if I didn't prove the cars had valid insurance on my birthday, they were 
revoking my plates. I called my agent, who told me not to mail my proof of 
insurance paperwork to the state because it was phony. Oops. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Yeah, I know it's a 26 yr old car (my wife keeps reminding me) ;-) but 
the cost to get something else even half as dependable would be $5000 or 
more and likely would not last as long.  I have looked at lots of 
options and have several other things to consider.  I am 
disabled/retired and can no longer keep up with maintenance on a car 
myself so diesel is important and diesels add approx. $3k-$5K to any 
used car wrth having.
On the other side of the coin the 300D is getting long in the tooth 
and while she has been very reliable it's getting to a time when lots 
"Could" go wrong. You made a good point though.

So before I spend $700 it would require a lot of thought.

Thanks --
LarryT
91 300SD
On 5/13/17 7:01 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:


rear wheel bearings which would run around $700.  That's a lot to
spend on a 26 year old car.


By all accounts this is a real bastard of a job, and requires a 
special tool.


-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thx Fred,
I'll have that checked...  The car has 275K and the driveshaft 
supports/bearings have never been repaired so that's a possibility. 
/I/'m not good at working under the car so that's something else I'll 
have to have the indy take care of it.  Of course, I need to have the 
shop confirm it's the D'shaft Vs the diff or rear wheel bearings.


Larry

On 5/13/17 6:20 PM, Fred Moir via Mercedes wrote:

Just a thought.

My rusty '87 300TD had a whine at 40 to 60 mph, that turned out to be the 
driveshaft center bearing.

YMMV


Fred Moir.
Lynn MA.
Diesel preferred.



From: Mercedes <mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com> on behalf of Kaleb Striplin via 
Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: 13 May 2017 15:08
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Kaleb Striplin
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing R 91 300D 2.5T

I'm assuming he checked to make sure there was oil in the diff, or that the 
noise was not the diff?


On May 13, 2017, at 1:57 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
wrote:

Hi Gang,
I sent this a few days ago but it never appeared - must be lost in cyberspace I 
guess?
Anyway, I am getting a whine at highway speeds (above 45mph) and my indy said 
they thought it was the rear wheel bearings which would run around $700.  
That's a lot too spend on a 26 year old car.  But it  is a MB diesel so I am 
considering it.  Before I allow the indy to work on it I was wondering how big 
a job it is?  Didn't see anything in the Archives so here I am.
  What dya say gang?
  LarryT


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