Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[damac2004]

thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.  

car was running fine to me.  last drive i came off freeway to oil light and i 
ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road.  turned out 
im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some of im shaft 
gear which was in pan.  i always had to get car smogged but i had to get a cat 
fitted because it didnt have one.

i didnt check compression i guess taking effort to turn over by hand with 
ratchet isnt enough?  car did run fine again after i fixed im shaft and before 
i yanked cams.

i did not try the aftermarket chip i figured it would run like crap, guess its 
worth a try?

is it possible somebody did work inside head for aftermarket cams to cause me 
problems?

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Chad Rebuck]

If you hear air rushing sounds like there is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter
otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would
do better if you held the throttle open.
On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM, "Holland Phillips" 
wrote:

> You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much
> experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for
> you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has
> experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine.
> Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while
> running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing.
> Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got, I
> would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning
> with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly
> basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't
> want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be
> factory standard parts.
> I wish you luck!
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess.  i put
>> what i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back
>> on the car.
>>
>> verified all timing marks.  circle on the flywheel as well as having a
>> dipstick on #1.  stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear
>> with marks aligning deck and cover.  i put a new chain on and there was no
>> loading up of slack like the other setup.
>>
>> i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put
>> the distributor back where it was.  the car did not like this at all and i
>> could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air
>> escaping in the engine bay.  the manual shows a baseline setting with the
>> notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better.  then i
>> started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was
>> chugging and shaking the motor.  while running i turned it all the way to
>> the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little
>> engine shake.
>>
>> as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car
>> screams up in rpms almost 2000 rpm.  it sounded better and smoother but the
>> pedal wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later
>> the rpms dropped and the car dies.
>>
>> i still don't really know what i am doing here.  what other variables
>> could be causing me such problems now?  does the ecu need to be reset or
>> something after a chip change?  could they have had different injectors
>> with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings?  there is no
>> adjustments on this cars throttle body.
>>
>> i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was setup
>> since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system
>>> with a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be
>>> some sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the
>>> case of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm
>>> keeps the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over
>>> time, so on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain.
>>> As I recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago,
>>> and they were still readily available.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
 half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is
 at.  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about
 the tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i
 assume the slack is also present turning the other way.



 On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello
 wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up,
> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth
> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off.
>
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch  wrote:
>
> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so
> the marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
> touch when not parallel.
>
> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks
> the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between
> the cam gears is not perfect.
>
> i then 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Holland Phillips]

To properly test compression, you have to be able to spin the motor at full
starter motor rpm, meaning fully charged battery, and all spark plugs
removed.
Something occurred to me. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? The Motronic
system is sensitive to proper O2 sensor input to the ECU. I have
experienced problems that were caused by bad O2 sensors, either because of
no output, or dead shorts. The early Bosch sensors had pretty short
lifespans, and could fail either way. The latest versions are much more
reliable, and much less expensive. Just be sure to only use the genuine
Bosch units.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 18:39, "damac2004"  wrote:

> thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.
>
> car was running fine to me.  last drive i came off freeway to oil light
> and i ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road.
> turned out im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some
> of im shaft gear which was in pan.  i always had to get car smogged but i
> had to get a cat fitted because it didnt have one.
>
> i didnt check compression i guess taking effort to turn over by hand with
> ratchet isnt enough?  car did run fine again after i fixed im shaft and
> before i yanked cams.
>
> i did not try the aftermarket chip i figured it would run like crap, guess
> its worth a try?
>
> is it possible somebody did work inside head for aftermarket cams to cause
> me problems?
>
> --
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> "MK2-16v" group.
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Holland Phillips]

You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much
experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for
you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has
experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine.
Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while
running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing.
Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got, I
would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning
with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly
basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't
want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be
factory standard parts.
I wish you luck!

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess.  i put what
> i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back on the
> car.
>
> verified all timing marks.  circle on the flywheel as well as having a
> dipstick on #1.  stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear
> with marks aligning deck and cover.  i put a new chain on and there was no
> loading up of slack like the other setup.
>
> i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put the
> distributor back where it was.  the car did not like this at all and i
> could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air
> escaping in the engine bay.  the manual shows a baseline setting with the
> notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better.  then i
> started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was
> chugging and shaking the motor.  while running i turned it all the way to
> the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little
> engine shake.
>
> as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car screams
> up in rpms almost 2000 rpm.  it sounded better and smoother but the pedal
> wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later the rpms
> dropped and the car dies.
>
> i still don't really know what i am doing here.  what other variables
> could be causing me such problems now?  does the ecu need to be reset or
> something after a chip change?  could they have had different injectors
> with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings?  there is no
> adjustments on this cars throttle body.
>
> i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was setup
> since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing.
>
>
> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system with
>> a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be some
>> sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the case
>> of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm keeps
>> the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over time, so
>> on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain. As I
>> recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago, and
>> they were still readily available.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is at.
>>>  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the
>>> tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume
>>> the slack is also present turning the other way.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:

 For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up,
 eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth
 never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off.

 On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch  wrote:

 i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the
 marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
 touch when not parallel.

 what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks
 the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between
 the cam gears is not perfect.

 i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
 there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?

 i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams
 so i guess all bets are off.

 i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
 center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
 cams the lobes at #1 do not 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Chad Rebuck]

It's probably going to turn out to be something very basic. Maybe the spark
plug wires are mixed up a little bit? The chip should not matter just to
get the engine up and running the chip only fine tunes the timing and the
fuel for a little bit more power. You could do a compression check to be
certain nothing is going wrong there. I'd focus on that rushing air sound
you said you heard.
On Feb 27, 2016 8:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i did use the same oil pump there was no debris?  i cleaned it up and
> tested and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay
> and built pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?
>
> this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me?  a
> tooth off the belt is going to send marks somewhere off.  i put a ratchet
> on crank bolt and turn over and use a screwdriver in inspection hole to get
> 0 lined up perfect.  cam marks in and out line up.
>
> also before i took things apart adjustable cam sprocket was at stock
> position with keyway and flywheel also lined up so i assumed no head
> shaving from beginning.
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[damac2004]

i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess.  i put what 
i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back on the 
car.

verified all timing marks.  circle on the flywheel as well as having a 
dipstick on #1.  stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear 
with marks aligning deck and cover.  i put a new chain on and there was no 
loading up of slack like the other setup.

i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put the 
distributor back where it was.  the car did not like this at all and i 
could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air 
escaping in the engine bay.  the manual shows a baseline setting with the 
notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better.  then i 
started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was 
chugging and shaking the motor.  while running i turned it all the way to 
the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little 
engine shake.

as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car screams 
up in rpms almost 2000 rpm.  it sounded better and smoother but the pedal 
wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later the rpms 
dropped and the car dies.

i still don't really know what i am doing here.  what other variables could 
be causing me such problems now?  does the ecu need to be reset or 
something after a chip change?  could they have had different injectors 
with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings?  there is no 
adjustments on this cars throttle body.

i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was setup 
since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing.


On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system with 
> a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be some 
> sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the case 
> of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm keeps 
> the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over time, so 
> on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain. As I 
> recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago, and 
> they were still readily available. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
>> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is at. 
>>  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the 
>> tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume 
>> the slack is also present turning the other way.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:
>>>
>>> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, 
>>> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth 
>>> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. 
>>>
>>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch  wrote:
>>>
>>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the 
>>> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks 
>>> touch when not parallel.
>>>
>>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
>>> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the 
>>> cam gears is not perfect.
>>>
>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed 
>>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>>>
>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams 
>>> so i guess all bets are off.
>>>
>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward 
>>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these 
>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle 
>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a 
>>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work 
>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>
>>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and 
>>> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each 
>>> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>>
>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat 
>>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just 
>>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>
>>>
>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock 
>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one 
>>> of these motors up close.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>> 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[damac2004]

all new seals, etc.  i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?

sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those before.

i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head.  i believe chasis gti is 2.0

i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google says 91-93 
passat for both?

when i got the car it had vacuum leaks this goes beyond that you can tell its 
not running right.

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Holland Phillips]

Since you must remove the intake manifold in order to access the cams, I
would start by using a spray bottle of water and spray where the intake
connects to the head, and the connection between the plenum and the lower
intake, depending on if you removed the intake as an assembly, or split the
plenum and lower intake. If the engine rpm drops when you spray around the
gasket areas, you've located at least part of the problem. Did you use new
gaskets when reinstalling the intake?

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 13:42, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> If you hear air rushing sounds like there is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
> You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter
> otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would
> do better if you held the throttle open.
> On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM, "Holland Phillips" 
> wrote:
>
>> You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much
>> experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for
>> you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has
>> experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine.
>> Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while
>> running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing.
>> Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got,
>> I would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning
>> with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly
>> basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't
>> want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be
>> factory standard parts.
>> I wish you luck!
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess.  i put
>>> what i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back
>>> on the car.
>>>
>>> verified all timing marks.  circle on the flywheel as well as having a
>>> dipstick on #1.  stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear
>>> with marks aligning deck and cover.  i put a new chain on and there was no
>>> loading up of slack like the other setup.
>>>
>>> i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put
>>> the distributor back where it was.  the car did not like this at all and i
>>> could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air
>>> escaping in the engine bay.  the manual shows a baseline setting with the
>>> notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better.  then i
>>> started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was
>>> chugging and shaking the motor.  while running i turned it all the way to
>>> the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little
>>> engine shake.
>>>
>>> as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car
>>> screams up in rpms almost 2000 rpm.  it sounded better and smoother but the
>>> pedal wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later
>>> the rpms dropped and the car dies.
>>>
>>> i still don't really know what i am doing here.  what other variables
>>> could be causing me such problems now?  does the ecu need to be reset or
>>> something after a chip change?  could they have had different injectors
>>> with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings?  there is no
>>> adjustments on this cars throttle body.
>>>
>>> i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was
>>> setup since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips
>>> wrote:

 Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system
 with a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be
 some sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the
 case of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm
 keeps the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over
 time, so on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain.
 As I recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago,
 and they were still readily available.

 ~Holland
 On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004"  wrote:

> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is
> at.  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about
> the tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i
> assume the slack is also present turning the other way.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello
> wrote:
>>
>> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Holland Phillips]

Okay, on Motronic engines, if the basic timing, as in distributor position,
is correct, the advance/retard function is handled by the ECU. To check the
basic mechanical timing, you have to remove the threaded plug in the top of
the bell housing, which has a plastic cap covering it. It requires a
special tool, which is basically a giant Allen wrench that requires a 3/8"
drive extension and ratchet to remove. There are notches in the flywheel,
and a pointer cast into the bell housing. As I recall, you have to plug a
vacuum line, and then shoot a timing light down the hole. Again, if I
recall correctly, there is one slightly wider notch in the flywheel, which
when aligned with the pointer, indicates TDC, or 180 degrees out without
the engine running. Then there is a slightly narrower notch, which
indicates correct timing when lined up with the pointer, and the engine
idling. If it doesn't line up exactly, you rotate the distributor until it
does.
The whole procedure is explained in the Bentley manual. It's been a long
time since I've done all this, so double check the Bentley to be sure my
memory is correct.
One other thing, you asked about fuel injectors. I researched larger
injectors when I was building my car, and with Motronic injection, there
were no options other than sending the stock ones out for balancing and
blueprinting, so unless you have one or more faulty injectors, that is not
likely part of the problem.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 14:53, "damac2004"  wrote:

> all new seals, etc.  i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?
>
> sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those
> before.
>
> i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head.  i believe chasis gti is
> 2.0
>
> i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google says
> 91-93 passat for both?
>
> when i got the car it had vacuum leaks this goes beyond that you can tell
> its not running right.
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Can the timing belt be off a tooth? That would explain why the spark timing is 
all the way to the right and why it's running rough. 
By the way, how's the oil pressure? Did you use the same oil pump?


On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:24 PM, damac2004  wrote:

thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i 
checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident not 
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.

i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up and 
dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.

the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light so 
thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts and 
barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just cranks.

so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of airbox 
can be messed with.

i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know what to 
do except put all old stuff on and try again?

i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Holland Phillips]

Sounds like you've done your homework. I apologize if I over explained too
much, but I wasn't sure of your knowledge/ability. I truly feel your
frustration at this point.
As far as the ECU is concerned, if the engine ran ok, and all you did to
the ECU is to swap in a stock chip, then unless the stock chip is bad, or
you did some ESD damage to the ECU or chip when handling them, then there
is nothing adjustable or upgradeable in the Motronic ECU. Have you tried
swapping the aftermarket chip back in?  I assume you have at this point.
The fuel distributor is also non adjustable. If it worked before, then
short of dropping it on the garage floor, it should still work as before.
Please refresh my memory. The car ran ok, and you just had some emissions
test concerns? I recall you discovering some issues with the intermediate
shaft, which is what opened this whole can of worms. One other question -
have you performed a compression test? It doesn't sound like that's part of
the problem, but you have now piqued my curiosity, and would like to help
solve your problem.
I would have gone into much more detail earlier on in this, but I only have
a smart phone at this point, and typing is a PITA.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 17:24, "damac2004"  wrote:

> thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i
> checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident
> not happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.
>
> i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up
> and dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.
>
> the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light
> so thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts
> and barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just
> cranks.
>
> so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of
> airbox can be messed with.
>
> i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know
> what to do except put all old stuff on and try again?
>
> i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section
>
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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[damac2004]

thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i 
checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident not 
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.

i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up and 
dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.

the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light so 
thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts and 
barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just cranks.

so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of airbox 
can be messed with.

i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know what to 
do except put all old stuff on and try again?

i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[damac2004]

i did use the same oil pump there was no debris?  i cleaned it up and tested 
and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay and built 
pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?

this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me?  a 
tooth off the belt is going to send marks somewhere off.  i put a ratchet on 
crank bolt and turn over and use a screwdriver in inspection hole to get 0 
lined up perfect.  cam marks in and out line up.

also before i took things apart adjustable cam sprocket was at stock position 
with keyway and flywheel also lined up so i assumed no head shaving from 
beginning.

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[damac2004]

i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all apart, 
after this incident.

this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole time 
:). 

i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to drive. i 
was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time

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Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Holland Phillips]

Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or
was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has
no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is
full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the O2 sensor
on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a heater, so
its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce emissions. All
this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I acquired over the
years. 

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
> apart, after this incident.
>
> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole
> time :).
>
> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>
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