subject:"\[neonixie\-l\] Re\: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating"

I would try replacing C6 again with a known good part and leave the clock
out of it's case without the heat sink and see how it does. This is the
exact syndrome that mine exhibited twice on the one clock until I opened up
the case and dropped the voltage and replaced C6. Then add a heat sink ,if
you must, a la Nick's (Pramanicin) picture above and raise the voltage up a
little.

Seriously doubt you have bad driver chips. Those things are pretty bullet
proof

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:37:48 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:

Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the
same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds.

I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two
driver chips I have in there now. With another pair, the left most tube
constantly displayed a digit based on the 10s of seconds. This is why I
think the drivers are a bit wonky.

So far both M1 and U1 are around 105-108F. I'll have to check it later
when it's after 10pm and all 6 digits are in use.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Well folks, I think I'm going to leave it like this for a while.  I've 
mounted a little 20mm fan to blow across U1  M1.  The extraneous digits 
lighting isn't significant enough to be an issue; I just assumed it had to 
do with the over-heating.

I appreciate everyone's input. We'll see how long it goes like this.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Is it still exhibiting the same symptoms as in your video without the 
heatsink?



On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:12:39 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:

 Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x

 U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot.  109F now from the PCB side.  
 It's hard to hit it on top because of the other PCB on top.  But with the 
 heatsink gone nothing is anywhere near as hot as it was before.  Really 
 makes no sense to me.

 Kiran


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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Niek,

I do have a scope, however I'd be lying if I said I knew how to use it. I
bought it used with the intention of learning how to use it, and it's sat
since then. You could probably say I know enough about electronics to be
dangerous. I know what resisters and capacitors and transistors do.. and I
can somewhat read a schematic, but I wouldn't say I know much more beyond
that.

That being said; I put my meter on the 7805 and there's a solid 5.042V
coming from it. I then removed the fuse and measured the current across
the fuse holder, and at most it peaked at 0.5A.

I've now snapped the heatsink off; the epoxy never came in contact with the
leads to U1 or M1. And now I think I've discovered that it's M1 that's
getting hot, not U1. Going from the solder side of the board, with the
heatsink, the board was much hotter behind U1 before.. but with the
heatsink gone, I can hit the case of U1 and M1 with the temp laser.. and M1
is about 85F.. U1 is about 96F.

Now I've increased the voltage to the tubes back to 170V (from 165V) and U1
seems maybe a degree cooler.

I'm going to kick myself if all it was was this heatsink I put on.. plus I
don't understand how it was causing such a problem.

Here's a video of the numbers faintly lighting. In this case it matches the
seconds.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ex4b070e2r3s5p/2015-03-28%2019.52.58.mp4?dl=0

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Glad removing the heatsink seemed to solved the issue.

It's interesting it has this behavior next to the blanked out tube: does it
have the same behavior when using 24 hour mode? (if it has such a mode, or
any other mode where it doesn't blank out any tubes). Blanking out a single
tube (of a pair) is not really recommended by switching off only the
cathode driver (the chip driver). It should be done by switching off the
anode driver instead, but in this case you could only switch off a pair of
two tubes that way (since this is a 3x2 multiplexed clock - each pair of
tubes has a single, shared anode driver (the transistors)). The driver chip
may be exposed to higher voltages this way, and this could lead to it
failing sooner.

However, in your case it seems to be showing the seconds in what I assume
is the hours tube? So, this seems more like a timing issue to me, where the
anode is switched to the next pair before or right at the same time as the
cathode driver was switched to the next digits. To do this right, there
should be some dead time between switching off the anode and switching to
the next anode (see a recent (a month or so ago) thread in this group about
a similar problem). Still - if this is a new issue (and you didn't change
the firmware), that would also be strange. Are you sure it wasn't always
like this?

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:11:05 PM UTC+1, MichaelB wrote:

Seriously doubt you have bad driver chips. Those things are pretty bullet
proof

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:37:48 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:

Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the
same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds.

So far both M1 and U1 are around 105-108F. I'll have to check it later
when it's after 10pm and all 6 digits are in use.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x

U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot.  109F now from the PCB side.  
It's hard to hit it on top because of the other PCB on top.  But with the 
heatsink gone nothing is anywhere near as hot as it was before.  Really 
makes no sense to me.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Now after running it a short while, U1 is about 98F and M1 is 112F.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Hmm, well, to me it seems a firmware issue with the timing: if it were the
drivers, then it would be random and probably more constant, not showing
the seconds. The reason you see the seconds in the 2nd to left tube is that
tube is driven by the same driver chip as the seconds (there are only two
drivers, and three pairs driven by them in quick succession depending on
the anode being driven - only one (of three) anode driver is active at any
given time). So, you can imagine that if the anode driver is switching to
the next tube set (the hours pair) while the driver chip hasn't been fully
switched off yet or switched to the hours digits, then you will see the
seconds on the hours pair. It may be that it works better for certain
driver chips than others, if they switch off a teensy bit faster, but
that's just bad design: it shouldn't be that critical.

It could almost certainly be fixed by a firmware fix quite easily. Maybe
you can tell the designer to add some dead time. It would really tick me
off having to look at this crappy faint seconds-in-hours where it should
just all be solid. Every time you look at it, you get a little annoyed.
That's not what you want in a clock. At some point it may be so bad that
you smash it against the wall in frustration. You don't want to get to that
point.

I'm not sure of any reliable source of driver chips, but you can try both
the Russian equivalents of the 74141 as well as the 74141 itself. If you
get them from two sources, surely one of them will be good (and most
probably all will be good). Try disabling that leading 0 blanking in the
future - it's not very good to do that.

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:23:35 PM UTC+1, Kiran Otter wrote:

Niek,

Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes
digit.. though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or
number of hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube,
faintly in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the
seconds tube coming on for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint,
so I assume it's not really a problem.

Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in
the left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think
it's OK for now.

Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay?

Kiran

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread JohnK

I didn't look closely when I mentioned about how to properly use heatsink
compound.
Was it hot before you added the heatsink?
Was it hotter after?

You pondered why the heatsink might make it hotter:-

Someone mentioned maybe glue conducting.

I mentioned the glue might insulate the heat.
Overlapping a couple of components, maybe one didn't like being heated by the
other?

And, what if the added heatsink is acting as an UNWANTED capacitor between
various pieces of the circuit? You didn't join the heatsink to earth/gnd or a
rail, it was floating? Gnd-ing pretty well removes the coupling effect. [And
the rail is effectively grounded.]

John K/

- Original Message -
From: Kiran Otter
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 8:53 AM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Niek,

Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours
on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the next
to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on for
like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not really a
problem.

Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the
left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK for
now.

Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay?

Kiran

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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread Jeff Walton

 

Sorry, corrected link below.  Phones are fun...

 

Kiran, 

 

PV Electronics makes a nice kit.   Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies 
and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage 
when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes.  Really nice feature! 

 

They also have a couple different cases available for the Spectrum model.   

 

I recently bought one and would recommend them. It runs nice and cool. 

 

http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk

 

 

Jeff Walton 

 

From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Kiran Otter
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:51 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

 

By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use 
my IN-18s.  I haven't had much luck finding another make.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it.  I've also noticed the 
same effect in the minute digit.  It also follows the seconds.

I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two 
driver chips I have in there now.  With another pair, the left most tube 
constantly displayed a digit based on the 10s of seconds. This is why I 
think the drivers are a bit wonky.

So far both M1 and U1 are around 105-108F.  I'll have to check it later 
when it's after 10pm and all 6 digits are in use.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Niek,

Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit.. 
though not as strongly.  If I force it to display the date or number of 
hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly 
in the next to left tube.  And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube 
coming on for like 4-5 seconds.  Again, it's all really faint, so I assume 
it's not really a problem.

Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the 
left most tube.  So it does seem to be driver related.  But I think it's OK 
for now.

Is there a known good source for the driver chips?  Someone on ebay?

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread Terry Kennedy

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

Yes, that kit tends to eat the HV filter cap. I've replaced it in
multiple clocks multiple times. Eventually I suppose I'll just figure out
how to get a Tayloredge HVPS module in there, and swap the supplies the
next time the cap fails in each.

Jonas did have a bad batch of K155's way-back-when, which tended to have
leakage between their output pins, but I'm pretty sure that would have
manifested by now. It is possible your replacements have this or some other
problem.

The IN-3 tubes used in the colons seem to be generally flakey. I've gone
through a good chunk of a box of 100 to find good ones, which start
acting up soon after being installed. I found some elongated NE-2 type
tubes at Mendelson's years ago. They must have been very expensive as they
were individually wrapped in foam with an inspection report and then
packaged 1-per-box in cardboard boxes. Once I installed those, the colon
indicators never gave me any more trouble.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread Dan Hollis


On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Terry Kennedy wrote:

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were
partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew.  My assumption was
that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off
eBay, and tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed.
  Well it didn't help, so I contacted Jonas.  Jonas suggested replacing C6,
which I did and it appeared to fix the problem.

Yes, that kit tends to eat the HV filter cap. I've replaced it in
multiple clocks multiple times. Eventually I suppose I'll just figure out
how to get a Tayloredge HVPS module in there, and swap the supplies the
next time the cap fails in each.


Mine blew the fuse too, good to know i'm not the only one who had this 
problem. Also good to know C6 is the likely culprit. My clock has been 
sitting unused for a while.


-Dan

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread Nicholas Stock

Could you have a faulty DS1307? Would that cause a timing issue?

Nick

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 28, 2015, at 15:23, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote:

Niek,

Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of hours
on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly in the
next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the seconds tube coming on
for like 4-5 seconds. Again, it's all really faint, so I assume it's not
really a problem.

Before I swapped the driver chips around, I was getting faint digits in the
left most tube. So it does seem to be driver related. But I think it's OK
for now.

Is there a known good source for the driver chips? Someone on ebay?

Kiran
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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread JohnK

Careful with epoxying a heatsink on. A heatconducting paste [dangerous chemical
usually] OR a very thin layer of heatsink compound and a clip holding the
heatsink is probably better. How much does the epoxy impede the heat flow?
[and note I said very thin re the compound?Just enough to fill the tiny voids
that exist. The usual compounds are heat insulators, but are still better than
air filling the voids.]
PS. I know you said the overheating is recent, but I use the opportunity to
mention this topic.

John k.
- Original Message -
From: Kiran Otter
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 2:44 AM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

The voltage from the wallwart (12V, 1A) is 11.8V under load. The high
voltage to the tubes is 172.8V. It's very difficult to get it right at 170V
when adjusting R26.

Something else I wanted to mention; the separator tubes (separating hours
from minutes, minutes from seconds,) one of them is mostly black, and neither
of them light properly. I'm wondering if they're the culprit. I'm going to
remove them and see if it makes any difference.

Also, I have the heatsink epoxied to both U1 and M1; maybe it's M1 that's
getting hot, not U1? I'll use a infrared temp gun and see if I can distinguish
which is getting so hot.

Thank you for the replies!

Kiran

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 11:45:02 AM UTC-4, blkadder wrote:
I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that
the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is adjustable,
could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought.

Ron

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Hi folks, glad to find this group!

I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18
tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board for
him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so I
thought I would ask here.

Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were
partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was that
the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I ordered six of them off eBay, and
tried replacing them.. which isn't hard, everything is socketed. Well it
didn't help, so I contacted Jonas. Jonas suggested replacing C6, which I did
and it appeared to fix the problem.

Maybe a month later, I started to notice the left most digit was faintly
showing numbers, and seemed to be influenced by the next to right digit. So I
thought perhaps the drivers I got from eBay weren't good, so I swapped them
around, trying to see if it made any difference. Unfortunately, I trashed the
two original driver chips that came with the kit. So far swapping the drivers
around among the six I have, hasn't changed anything.. or if it has, the digits
lighting that shouldn't be have moved from tube to tube.

Well I let the clock run like this for a week or so, and one day I just
happened to feel around the voltage regulator U1 (L7805CV).. and it's blazing
hot. I put a temp probe on it and it's running at 140F in open air, and when I
built the clock, I epoxied a heatsink to it. It never ever used to get this
hot. In fact the clock has run for years in a closed enclosure with very
little ventilation. It just never produced much heat at all. I swapped both
driver chips for two others, and it still gets just as hot.

When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just
above room temperature.

So my guess is has to be one of two things I replaced; C6, or the driver
chips. I think it's the drivers, and I'd like to get a pair from somewhere
reputable so I can at least rule them out as the problem. I've seen some that
appear to be ceramic, instead of plastic cased.. claimed to be 'milspec' but I
donno if that's BS or what.

Any help is appreciated!

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix
has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to
keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design
of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed to
fix the issue. These clocks all seem to do this when there is inadequate
cooling in an enclosed case.

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 4:55:48 AM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:

Hi folks, glad to find this group!

When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just
above room temperature.

Any help is appreciated!

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread blkadder

I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that
the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is
adjustable, could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought.

Ron

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

Hi folks, glad to find this group!

When the clock shuts off the display at night, the temp drops to just
above room temperature.

Any help is appreciated!

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to?  And I did replace C6.  Could 
I have a bad cap?  I had a hell of a time finding just one; got it shipped 
free from RS for for like a dollar.

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-4, MichaelB wrote:

 I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix 
 has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to 
 keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design 
 of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed to 
 fix the issue. These clocks all seem to do this when there is inadequate 
 cooling in an enclosed case. 



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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will 
use my IN-18s.  I haven't had much luck finding another make.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread blkadder

I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).  
He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured.  He does 
have a few that use the big Nixies like you have.  All the kits I have used 
are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current 
clock has.  If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers 
things right away.  Hope this helps.

Ron

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

 By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will 
 use my IN-18s.  I haven't had much luck finding another make.

 Kiran


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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Do you have a scope? Is the output of the 7805 still a clean 5V? How about
the output of the HV regulator? Can you measure the current going into the
clock? (with your multimeter)

I'd be a bit suprised if the cause is the driver chips, because after
replacing them it didn't seem to improve a lot (if any) apparently.

I wouldn't be too worried about 140F for the 7805 btw, it should be able to
go up quite a bit higher than that, though with the big heatsink, if
attached well, it's a bit surprising.

You can try lowering the input voltage to 9V, and see if this helps. Keep
an eye on M1 in this case, as it will probably have to work a bit harder to
pump up the HV.

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 6:57:28 PM UTC+1, blkadder wrote:

I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).
He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does
have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used
are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current
clock has. If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers
things right away. Hope this helps.

Ron

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that
will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

 Around 165, can’t remember exactly, but enough so as not to sacrifice tube 
brightness and yes you could have a bad cap. 
 

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:49:05 AM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:

 MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to?  And I did replace C6.  Could 
 I have a bad cap?  I had a hell of a time finding just one; got it shipped 
 free from RS for for like a dollar.

 On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-4, MichaelB wrote:

 I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix 
 has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to 
 keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design 
 of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed to 
 fix the issue. These clocks all seem to do this when there is inadequate 
 cooling in an enclosed case. 



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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote:

 I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).  
 He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured.  He does 
 have a few that use the big Nixies like you have.  All the kits I have used 
 are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your current 
 clock has.  If you see his online chat button active, he actually answers 
 things right away.  Hope this helps.

 Ron

 On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

 By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that 
 will use my IN-18s.  I haven't had much luck finding another make.

 Kiran



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RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

2015-03-28 Thread Jeff Walton

Kiran,

PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their Spectrum model uses the IN-18 nixies
and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage
when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature!

They also have a couple different cases available for the Spectrum model.

I recently bought one and would recommend them. It runs nice and cool.

www.pvelectroniccs.com

Jeff Walton

div Original message /divdivFrom: Kiran Otter
kiranot...@gmail.com /divdivDate:03/28/2015 12:51 PM (GMT-06:00)
/divdivTo: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com /divdivCc: /divdivSubject:
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating /divdiv
/divBy the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that
will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make.

Kiran
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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating

You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you
a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't
see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it
fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you also
post a video of the digits issue, so it's a bit more clear what's going
wrong?

Thanks!

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:11:32 PM UTC+1, MichaelB wrote:

Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote:

Ron

On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:51:10 PM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:

By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that
will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make.

Kiran

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[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating