[RBW] Re: A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

2016-01-05 Thread WETH
That is a beautiful bike and build. Well done and enjoy the rides.
Thanks for sharing,
Erl

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:33:52 AM UTC-5, Lucero wrote:
>
> There aren't *too* many photos of Soma San Marcos builds online, so I 
> figured I'd post this as maybe I'll be doing a service to some curious 
> souls out there. Christmas pushed this Amos over the finish line and I 
> completed the build on New Year's Day. Photos: http://imgur.com/a/U12iY
>
> The frame is a 51 and fits my 80 PBH eerily perfectly. The ride is lively 
> and zippy, as expected, yet extremely confidence-inspiring in some way I 
> have yet to figure out. Maybe that's what the "sport touring" thing is all 
> about? Anyways, I don't weigh much and ride predominantly paved surfaces 
> here in San Francisco, but I can already see this San Marcos serving as an 
> excellent all-rounder. Will need to report back after some additional 
> fine-tuning (and perhaps a light tour / camping trip), but overall I'm 
> loving the ride and can't wait to put the bike to work.
>
> Parts: Velocity Atlas 650B wheelset, Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard 42 mm 
> tires, Sugino XD2 triple crankset, Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, MKS RMX 
> pedals, Shimano Claris derailleurs, Silver downtube friction shifters, 
> Tektro R559 brakes, FSA Duron X headset, Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto 
> Albatross bars, Tektro FL750 levers, Uno SP-248 seatpost, Brooks B17 
> Special Honey saddle, SKS P50 Longboard fenders, Crane brass bell, front (+ 
> medium Wald) and rear Nitto racks to be mounted soon.
>
> A note about the fenders/clearance: I had every intention of maxing out my 
> tire size on this bike, whether or not that meant I could run fenders, thus 
> the 42 mm Schwalbe Marathons. I'm not sure what they actually measure - 
> high 30s, maybe? Got to chatting with some folks at American Cyclery in SF, 
> who told me I should be able to run fenders just fine. Besides Rivendell 
> and maybe Soma, they would know best. No generous clearances to speak of, 
> but rear clearance is fine, front clearance is fine if not just a few mm 
> tighter. Doing great on asphalt, may not fare so well if you add mud to the 
> equation.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-05 Thread Patrick Moore
IIRC, Grant politely disagreed with Jobst Brandt, who dismissed the value
of tread on bike tires, by spec'ing light file tread on tires like the Jack
Browns, saying that this might help on wet roads, and anyway, doesn't hurt.

A very small data point: I recall riding slick 32 mm Fatboys back in the
day. I found those noticeably more likely to skid in wet than the 22 mm
Turbos I also rode back then, these having a slight file tread. Of course,
I stupidly pumped the FBs to the "correct" 110 psi, so that may have had
something to do with their lack of grip on wet roads.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:29 AM, George Schick  wrote:

> Interesting.  One additional remark about the tires on racing cars and
> motorcycles:  They run 'em very hot.  That's why you see the cars swerving
> from side to side when they're going slow during a yellow caution flag in a
> NASCAR race, to keep 'em heated up for when the green flag goes down.  The
> softer tire compounds heat up more quickly, too.  'Course, this doesn't
> usually happen with bicycle tires, given the slower speeds, etc.
>
> BTW, I seem to recall from the distant cobwebs of my aging cranium an
> article about tires and tread that Grant wrote years ago in one of his Riv
> Readers, concluding that any tread on a bike tire was more or less
> irrelevant due to the small "footprint" of the tire on the riding surface.
> I'll have to fish around and see if I can find it, to see what he did in
> fact say…
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 8:19:06 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there
>> actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others,
>> especially in the wet...
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Montclair BobbyB
+1 on Empire Canvas mitts (although I don't own them... yet).  I have nice 
Black Diamond mitts for extreme cold. Nothing beats mitts for warmth, but I 
generally prefer a greater degree of dexterity than mitts will afford. 
Hestra Guide Gloves are my glove of choice.
They feature removable wool inserts and are built to last.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 8:01:26 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> What do you all wear? It's down to 10*F here and getting colder. Have 
> never been happy with my previous..
>
> Had 'hippo hands' on my Pugsley last winter w some insulated gloves (some 
> cheapo insulation) and still wasn't enough. Wool liner was good but too 
> thick to layer..
>
> I am thinking maybe some Mittens 
> https://www.frostriver.com/?s=mittens_type=product
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Patrick Moore
A propos of the other thread on bar/stem/saddle positioning: this is a very
good observation.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 10:22 AM, Dave Johnston  wrote:

> . Drop Bar positioning is much more sensitive to a cm here or there. The
> upright bars seem much less sensitive to a cm fore - back or up or down.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Protovelo Appaloosa on SF bay area craigslist

2016-01-05 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 01/05/2016 11:38 AM, Andy C. wrote:
I just want to report that I was fortunate enough to acquire this bike 
a few weeks back, and I may not have pulled the trigger on this one if 
it wasn't for the exhortations of those who contributed to this 
thread.  So, thank you, and thanks to Surylyprof for the PSA.


This is definitely the place for Rivendell enablers.


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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Readers

2016-01-05 Thread Johnny Alien
I have a stack of Rivendell Readers. Issues 8-27 complete (20 issues). 
 They are all in read but good shape.  *$50 shipped anywhere in the USA*.

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[RBW] Re: Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-05 Thread George Schick
Interesting.  One additional remark about the tires on racing cars and 
motorcycles:  They run 'em very hot.  That's why you see the cars swerving 
from side to side when they're going slow during a yellow caution flag in a 
NASCAR race, to keep 'em heated up for when the green flag goes down.  The 
softer tire compounds heat up more quickly, too.  'Course, this doesn't 
usually happen with bicycle tires, given the slower speeds, etc.

BTW, I seem to recall from the distant cobwebs of my aging cranium an 
article about tires and tread that Grant wrote years ago in one of his Riv 
Readers, concluding that any tread on a bike tire was more or less 
irrelevant due to the small "footprint" of the tire on the riding surface. 
 I'll have to fish around and see if I can find it, to see what he did in 
fact say…


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 8:19:06 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there 
> actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others, 
> especially in the wet...
>
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Protovelo Appaloosa on SF bay area craigslist

2016-01-05 Thread cyclotourist
" ...including leaning forward on my elbows akin to ordering a beer at a bar. "

Forget that stack and reach nonsense, this is the true way to measure a bike!

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 8:38 AM, Andy C.  wrote:
> I just want to report that I was fortunate enough to acquire this bike a few
> weeks back, and I may not have pulled the trigger on this one if it wasn't
> for the exhortations of those who contributed to this thread.  So, thank
> you, and thanks to Surylyprof for the PSA.
> What with the holidays and all, I've only taken the bike out once, or I
> should say that it took me out and led me all over SF.  I discovered
> multiple positions on the bars, including leaning forward on my elbows akin
> to ordering a beer at a bar.  The bike is awesome, if a little difficult to
> get in the front door.
> --Andy C.
>
> On Sunday, December 6, 2015 at 5:12:37 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/5348378811.html
>>
>> For those of you who just can't wait for the new one or liked the original
>> Joe better.  Is this someone on the list?
>>
>> John
>
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Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Conway Bennett
I've been riding year round in Chicago since 2011 and I have never need more 
than outdoor research "gripper" gloves and merino glove liners.  My hands have 
been frostnipped before as result of working on boats in the winter (can't work 
in gloves-can't f in socks) and generally just hurt when it's cold but this 
combo works.  

When I've dogsledded in the boundary waters I did like the locals and used 
glove liners and "choppers", a combo of a thick raglan mitten and leather work 
mitten.

FW,

CCB

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Dave Johnston
I should add that the real issue with using drops on any of the Riv 6deg 
slope bikes, is the bigger jumps in top tube lengths between sizes. Drop 
Bar positioning is much more sensitive to a cm here or there. The upright 
bars seem much less sensitive to a cm fore - back or up or down.

-Dave J

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 11:44:50 AM UTC-5, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> I see no reason you couldn't put drops on the Joe, as long as you sized 
> the bike for them.  I don't see much difference in Geometry between the San 
> Marcos, the Sam and the Joe. I see quite a few Sams and San Marcos pictured 
> with drop bars. The Joe seems about 1cm longer in the top tube than the Sam 
> and 1.5cm longer than a San Marcos so you might need a shorter stem, or you 
> could downsize to a more compact style geometry. So it might actually be 
> easier to obtain a bars below saddle position (long and low) on a properly 
> sized Sam than on the San Marcos. 
>
> Just as a comparison to my 56cm Rambouilet with a 56 cm top tube with 2deg 
> upslope, and a 72deg seat angle.
> I could order a 51cm Joe that would have a 56.5cm top tube and a 71.5deg 
> seat angle, so the reach to the bars would be about the same. The 51cm 
> frame has a 6 deg top tube slope that would bring the headset exit point 
> about 1cm lower than the Ram. I have plenty of quill on my Nitto Tech Dlx 
> still in the steerer so I could just raise the stem a cm and have the exact 
> same bar position. 
>
> I will note that the size fitting charts recommendations on the riv pages 
> do this, put someone on a 56cm Ram on a 51cm Joe.  
>
> -Dave J
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:56:01 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> I ride with bars 1.3 below saddle.
>> That maxes out my blue Sam. But I'm at 1.3 below saddle and it is great.
>> If I wanted lower I'd have to cut the steerer.
>> But I don't want lower. So it works out great.
>> However, when I bought it I didn't know you couldn't go any lower on this 
>> bike. If I was someone who liked lower, I would have had to return the 
>> frame. 
>>
>> The Joe, and all the other sub-2k$ frames look like you can't get 
>> handlebar height below saddle. Someone would have to confirm. They look 
>> like they have really high exit points, sloping tubes, and steerer stacks. 
>> If this is true, then there would  no longer be sub-2k$ RBW frames 
>> available, new, for people who like riding bars below saddle. Just making 
>> an observation. Someone would have to confirm.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Tim Gavin
My hands seem to have good circulation; I can wear light gloves and they'll
stay warm so long as I'm active.  So, my suggestions may not work well for
those with cold hands.

Currently, I wear light merino liners (Giro Westerly) under full-finger
MTB/BMX gloves down to 15-20F, and still sweat them through regularly.  I
rode 20 miles yesterday in ~25 F with this combo.
If it's colder, I'll use a thicker outer glove.
Above freezing, I wear the merino liners under fingerless bike gloves, or
the BMX gloves alone.

I've tried vapor-barrier-style gloves, like Garth suggests.  Mine are
nominally breathable (Roeckl Malvas

gloves, claimed 3000g/m2/24h, FWIW).  They're very thin, and feel like
spandex covered in a silicone or nitrile coating.  For me, they work just
like nitrile gloves -- very very sweaty.  I keep them in my bag for when I
stop in cold weather.

I've used boiled wool mitts before (Dachstein) for less-strenuous winter
activities like hiking, and they're great.  They don't wear very well (oh
darn!) so they're best under an outer-mitt.

Cheers,
Tim
Cedar Rapids, IA

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 11:09 AM, Conway Bennett <
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I've been riding year round in Chicago since 2011 and I have never need
> more than outdoor research "gripper" gloves and merino glove liners.  My
> hands have been frostnipped before as result of working on boats in the
> winter (can't work in gloves-can't f in socks) and generally just hurt
> when it's cold but this combo works.
>
> When I've dogsledded in the boundary waters I did like the locals and used
> glove liners and "choppers", a combo of a thick raglan mitten and leather
> work mitten.
>
> FW,
>
> CCB
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-05 Thread Patrick Moore
*After riding other bikes for several months, and then coming back to this
one, it still feels “just right”.  The ride is smooth, predictable,
natural.  I never feel like it has quirks, defects, or limitations that
I’ve noticed on lesser bikes.*

That has been my experience for over 20 years with my Rivendells, at least
the customs. It's so weird that, even just the other day, when my gofast is
going on for 19 years old, I still experienced this "back home again!"
feeling after having ridden other bikes for a while.

Minh: Our acequia roads and ditches are often protected from motor traffic
by log barriers that allow passage of horses, pedestrians, and bicycles if
they are carried. I typically grab mine by the seat tube.

As for theft, well that's where a good (emphasis on that word) mini pump in
a removable bag works best, I think.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:04 AM, Minh  wrote:

> One of my favorite bikes to follow on the list!
>
> Can i ask a related question?  To you or anyone else, i love the look and
> functionality of keeping a long pump on the bike but always find it in the
> way in practice (like when picking up the bike) or always wary of leaving
> the bike due to theft.  Any comments on how you real with that?
>
>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 1:16:26 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Riv bunch!  I was reflecting today on my beloved Hilsen after riding
>>> it for about 7-years, and decided to put up some thoughts in a "long term
>>> review".  Still my favorite bike, ever...
>>>
>>> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/04/a-homer-hilsen-7-year-review/
>>>
>>> Brian Hanson
>>> Seattle, WA
>>> Bike Blog 
>>> @stonehog
>>> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Custom Bag Queue Open.

2016-01-05 Thread Tim Gavin
I did exactly this with David before the holidays.  I measured the vertical
distance between the rack platform and the decaleur, and David made a Rando
bag that fits perfectly.

The standard width/depth fits well between the drops of my Nitto B135 Rando
bars.

I'll post a picture once I take one.  It's on my Riv Road 650b, with a VO
decaleur and Nitto Mark's rack.

Cheers,
Tim

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 12:16 AM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> Banzer Bags sounds like a cool name.
> So could I measure from my front rack platform to my stem top and order a
> custom size Rando type bag. Width and depth too?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-05 Thread Tim Gavin
Daniel-

I've heard of folks having decent results with customizing cheapo neoprene
pogies.  Your local farm/hardware store should have some pogies meant for
ATVs/Snowmobiles for less than $30.  Cut and re-stitch.

I've considered doing the same; I have Jones Loop bars and there are no
non-custom pogie options for those, either.
But, my hands seem to have good circulation and stay plenty warm.  I wear
double gloves (thin merino inner, BMX/MTB full-fingered outer) down to 15 F.

Cheers,
Tim

>
>
> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 7:15:51 PM UTC-6, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the
>> albastache?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> D.
>>
> --
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Steve Palincsar

What's the unit?  Inches?  centimeters?

On 01/05/2016 10:56 AM, Lungimsam wrote:

I ride with bars 1.3 below saddle.
That maxes out my blue Sam. But I'm at 1.3 below saddle and it is great.


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[RBW] Re: PSA: Protovelo Appaloosa on SF bay area craigslist

2016-01-05 Thread Andy C.
I just want to report that I was fortunate enough to acquire this bike a 
few weeks back, and I may not have pulled the trigger on this one if it 
wasn't for the exhortations of those who contributed to this thread.  So, 
thank you, and thanks to Surylyprof for the PSA.
What with the holidays and all, I've only taken the bike out once, or I 
should say that it took me out and led me all over SF.  I discovered 
multiple positions on the bars, including leaning forward on my elbows akin 
to ordering a beer at a bar.  The bike is awesome, if a little difficult to 
get in the front door.
--Andy C.

On Sunday, December 6, 2015 at 5:12:37 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/5348378811.html
>
> For those of you who just can't wait for the new one or liked the original 
> Joe better.  Is this someone on the list?
>
> John
>

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[RBW] Anyone have the Stickpack?

2016-01-05 Thread drew
finally got around to reading the description for this, and was especially 
interested in claims that it can squash down small and fit into bigger bags 
for daytrips and whatnot.  the stick part is not super appealing to me, but 
i could maybe get over that. 

any reviews?

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Dave Johnston
I see no reason you couldn't put drops on the Joe, as long as you sized the 
bike for them.  I don't see much difference in Geometry between the San 
Marcos, the Sam and the Joe. I see quite a few Sams and San Marcos pictured 
with drop bars. The Joe seems about 1cm longer in the top tube than the Sam 
and 1.5cm longer than a San Marcos so you might need a shorter stem, or you 
could downsize to a more compact style geometry. So it might actually be 
easier to obtain a bars below saddle position (long and low) on a properly 
sized Sam than on the San Marcos. 

Just as a comparison to my 56cm Rambouilet with a 56 cm top tube with 2deg 
upslope, and a 72deg seat angle.
I could order a 51cm Joe that would have a 56.5cm top tube and a 71.5deg 
seat angle, so the reach to the bars would be about the same. The 51cm 
frame has a 6 deg top tube slope that would bring the headset exit point 
about 1cm lower than the Ram. I have plenty of quill on my Nitto Tech Dlx 
still in the steerer so I could just raise the stem a cm and have the exact 
same bar position. 

I will note that the size fitting charts recommendations on the riv pages 
do this, put someone on a 56cm Ram on a 51cm Joe.  

-Dave J

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:56:01 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I ride with bars 1.3 below saddle.
> That maxes out my blue Sam. But I'm at 1.3 below saddle and it is great.
> If I wanted lower I'd have to cut the steerer.
> But I don't want lower. So it works out great.
> However, when I bought it I didn't know you couldn't go any lower on this 
> bike. If I was someone who liked lower, I would have had to return the 
> frame. 
>
> The Joe, and all the other sub-2k$ frames look like you can't get 
> handlebar height below saddle. Someone would have to confirm. They look 
> like they have really high exit points, sloping tubes, and steerer stacks. 
> If this is true, then there would  no longer be sub-2k$ RBW frames 
> available, new, for people who like riding bars below saddle. Just making 
> an observation. Someone would have to confirm.
>

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Re: [RBW] Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-05 Thread cyclotourist
That 3.0 CSL is dreamy...

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 6:19 AM, Jan Heine  wrote:
> Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there
> actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others,
> especially in the wet...
>
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-05 Thread Jan Heine
Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there 
actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others, 
especially in the wet...

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Elisabeth Sherwood
A little late to the conversation, and this is (I swear) academic for me as 
well, but was someone able to find a geometry chart for the Joe? I clicked 
through the link that _said_ there was geometry, and I read through it 
carefully several times, and yet still I couldn't find it or another link 
to it. I'm probably losing my mind, but can someone direct me to the 
geometry?

Many thanks,

-- Liz


On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 7:46:23 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:
>
> There's a thorough description of the Joe on the latest BLUG.  I 
> especially like the photo of the fist between the seat tube & the fender.  
> It also talks about where this bike fits into the line-up, between Sam & 
> Hunq, and differences with Atlantis.  Good stuff all around.  At $2,400 
> it's the deal of the yearand next year too.  
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Kainalu
Mittens are great for most anything, but biking and staying warm needs lobster 
mitts. That means pinkie and ring in one "finger", middle and pointer in 
another finger, and a lonesome thumb for a third. All the warmth of mittens 
with the control of gloves, and alien good looks.
-Lobster Zealot
Brooklyn NY 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Custom Bag Queue Open.

2016-01-05 Thread David Banzer
That's correct. For a standard model bag, width/depth are set, but height 
is whatever you need. A custom could have any dimensions you'd like.
David
Chicago

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 12:16:40 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Banzer Bags sounds like a cool name.
> So could I measure from my front rack platform to my stem top and order a 
> custom size Rando type bag. Width and depth too?

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch
I am so guilty of this!!  I've got a perfectly good bike (Surly Karate 
Monkey with Deore groupset) but I still find myself getting excited when I 
see other bikes and I'm constantly planning my "next build", both in my 
mind and on BikeCad.  I think my problem is that deep down, I want a 
classic looking bike (ie, not a modern MTB) with silver components (not 
black, again like modern MTB).  Some Riv models come close but there are 
still issues for me and I think custom is the only way to get what I truly 
want and at this point I'm not even sure what that is, exactly.  Probably a 
cross between a Bombadil & a Hunqapillar with maybe some Atlantis thrown 
in.  



On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 6:47:53 AM UTC-6, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
>  some of us become obsessed with creating/finding/buying that Goldilocks 
> bike, the one that will make us happiest.
>
> I know I've had my head turned more than once by a new model, and been 
> well down the road of imagining a build, before reminding myself that I 
> already have a bicycle (or two!) that does 93-110% of what this fabulous 
> new one does. My New Year's resolution is to continue to reign in this 
> lust, and even to let go of a couple of bikes. It's hard, because bikes are 
> such wonderful machines! But for me, at some point, I cross a line and 
> having too much can start to work against all the fun and functionality, 
> even if only in subtle ways. In my heart, I aspire to be one of those who 
> live with one bicycle. 
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Kainalu
http://www.empirecanvasworks.com/icebikemittens.htm
These might be overkill, my lesser lobsters are too warm above 20f

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Andrew Patteson
What Daniel said.  My circulation is poor and I have tried many different 
gloves and many layers of gloves.  Pogies plus light to medium gloves 
(depending on temp) are the best by far.

Andrew in SLC

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 6:38:04 AM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Pogies all the way. 
> Pierogies are tasty treats
> Pogies are toasty
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-05 Thread Christopher Wiggins
Absolutely one of my favorite AHH custom colors.  


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 1:16:26 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>
> Hey Riv bunch!  I was reflecting today on my beloved Hilsen after riding 
> it for about 7-years, and decided to put up some thoughts in a "long term 
> review".  Still my favorite bike, ever... 
>
> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/04/a-homer-hilsen-7-year-review/
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

2016-01-05 Thread Lucero
There aren't *too* many photos of Soma San Marcos builds online, so I 
figured I'd post this as maybe I'll be doing a service to some curious 
souls out there. Christmas pushed this Amos over the finish line and I 
completed the build on New Year's Day. Photos: http://imgur.com/a/U12iY

The frame is a 51 and fits my 80 PBH eerily perfectly. The ride is lively 
and zippy, as expected, yet extremely confidence-inspiring in some way I 
have yet to figure out. Maybe that's what the "sport touring" thing is all 
about? Anyways, I don't weigh much and ride predominantly paved surfaces 
here in San Francisco, but I can already see this San Marcos serving as an 
excellent all-rounder. Will need to report back after some additional 
fine-tuning (and perhaps a light tour / camping trip), but overall I'm 
loving the ride and can't wait to put the bike to work.

Parts: Velocity Atlas 650B wheelset, Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard 42 mm 
tires, Sugino XD2 triple crankset, Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, MKS RMX 
pedals, Shimano Claris derailleurs, Silver downtube friction shifters, 
Tektro R559 brakes, FSA Duron X headset, Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto 
Albatross bars, Tektro FL750 levers, Uno SP-248 seatpost, Brooks B17 
Special Honey saddle, SKS P50 Longboard fenders, Crane brass bell, front (+ 
medium Wald) and rear Nitto racks to be mounted soon.

A note about the fenders/clearance: I had every intention of maxing out my 
tire size on this bike, whether or not that meant I could run fenders, thus 
the 42 mm Schwalbe Marathons. I'm not sure what they actually measure - 
high 30s, maybe? Got to chatting with some folks at American Cyclery in SF, 
who told me I should be able to run fenders just fine. Besides Rivendell 
and maybe Soma, they would know best. No generous clearances to speak of, 
but rear clearance is fine, front clearance is fine if not just a few mm 
tighter. Doing great on asphalt, may not fare so well if you add mud to the 
equation.

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[RBW] Re: A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

2016-01-05 Thread Philip Kim
Also your pics definitely catch the color more accurately than mine ...

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:50:55 AM UTC-5, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> Awesome build! Here's mine. Also a 51cm. Agree it is an awesome ride.
>
> Dyad 650b wheelset, SP dyno. Paul Racers, Nitto RM-013 handlebars, 42mm 
> Parimotos in the picture, but currently run 42mm Paselas. I also run a 1x9 
> and it has been awesome. Shimano 5800 crankset w/ Wolftooth chainring 38, 
> with IRD/Riv 12-40 9 speed cassette. Used a "road link" from Wolftooth, 
> which allows my Shimano 105 rear derailleur to successfully shift all 
> gears. 
>
> I have Tektro 559's as my rear brake on my Cheviot, and the Paul Racers 
> allow more clearance. I can fit fenders with the 42mm tires. 
>
> I use rackless bags (top tube frame bag, handlebar bag, seatbag) to carry 
> more load.
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:33:52 AM UTC-5, Lucero wrote:
>>
>> There aren't *too* many photos of Soma San Marcos builds online, so I 
>> figured I'd post this as maybe I'll be doing a service to some curious 
>> souls out there. Christmas pushed this Amos over the finish line and I 
>> completed the build on New Year's Day. Photos: http://imgur.com/a/U12iY 
>> 
>>
>> The frame is a 51 and fits my 80 PBH eerily perfectly. The ride is lively 
>> and zippy, as expected, yet extremely confidence-inspiring in some way I 
>> have yet to figure out. Maybe that's what the "sport touring" thing is all 
>> about? Anyways, I don't weigh much and ride predominantly paved surfaces 
>> here in San Francisco, but I can already see this San Marcos serving as an 
>> excellent all-rounder. Will need to report back after some additional 
>> fine-tuning (and perhaps a light tour / camping trip), but overall I'm 
>> loving the ride and can't wait to put the bike to work.
>>
>> Parts: Velocity Atlas 650B wheelset, Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard 42 mm 
>> tires, Sugino XD2 triple crankset, Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, MKS RMX 
>> pedals, Shimano Claris derailleurs, Silver downtube friction shifters, 
>> Tektro R559 brakes, FSA Duron X headset, Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto 
>> Albatross bars, Tektro FL750 levers, Uno SP-248 seatpost, Brooks B17 
>> Special Honey saddle, SKS P50 Longboard fenders, Crane brass bell, front (+ 
>> medium Wald) and rear Nitto racks to be mounted soon.
>>
>> A note about the fenders/clearance: I had every intention of maxing out 
>> my tire size on this bike, whether or not that meant I could run fenders, 
>> thus the 42 mm Schwalbe Marathons. I'm not sure what they actually measure 
>> - high 30s, maybe? Got to chatting with some folks at American Cyclery in 
>> SF, who told me I should be able to run fenders just fine. Besides 
>> Rivendell and maybe Soma, they would know best. No generous clearances to 
>> speak of, but rear clearance is fine, front clearance is fine if not just a 
>> few mm tighter. Doing great on asphalt, may not fare so well if you add mud 
>> to the equation.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Jon Dukeman in the foothills of Colorado
I have these gloves and mittens and couldn't be happier.
They breathe and are pretty much water proof.
I have tried bike shop gloves for years and have not been happy with them.
Jon

http://www.sweaterchalet.com/quality-woolens/mittens-gloves

>
>

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[RBW] Lowrider Rack on mid/upper fork eyelets?

2016-01-05 Thread David Banzer
I'm thinking of adding front panniers to my Clem setup, and am wondering 
what lowrider racks might be adapted to fit on the upper fork end eyelets 
and the Riv-standard mid/upper fork eyelets.
I've seen one lister I believe that did this with a Tubus Tara rack. 
David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Garth
   Why not ride a drop bar Joe ?  Of course you can and set it up that 
way.  Take a look at the frame from the side and picture the bike with a 
negative rise stem and drop bars. No cutting or modification is necessary 
.  The 6 degree TT rise and HT extension is the same as on their other 
like-made frames.  


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 1:47:41 AM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> So for a new drop bar Riv-bike that can have bars set 1-2cm below saddle, 
> one would need to buy an Atlantis, Hilsen, or Roadeo at this point in 
> Riv-time. Or cut the steerer tube down on a Sam, Clem, or Joe?

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Daniel Jackson
Deacon,

You successfully operate brakes and hold on for dear life singletracking 
with mitts on an Albastache?!?!

That's Superhuman.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:42:41 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Tested to -20˚F. Boiled wool, with a nylon shell (or cotton canvas works 
> too -- no waterproof stuff, the idea is it need to block wind, but breathe 
> very well.). http://www.sweatersintl.com/dachstein_mitts.html
>
> You could experiment with lobsterizing them by getting a size up and 
> cutting/sewing them to split the fingers. This will diminish their warmth 
> somewhat though, so be aware of that.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 6:01:26 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> What do you all wear? It's down to 10*F here and getting colder.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Patrick Moore
I've only ridden down to 25*F this year, but after trying thick gloves, I
gave up and now am trying layers. I have a pair of very densely knit woolen
cycling gloves, good to 40*F or so; between 40 and 30*F I have a pair of
mid weight Sugois; and below that I've tried the Sugois inside of a pair of
cheap Polartec gloves, oversized. (Come to think of it, I also have a pair
of leather/heavy canvas mitten shells.)

I have Medium hands but I always buy Large, both so that I can get the
wools in the Sugois and the Sugois into the Polartecs or shells; but mostly
because it leaves a bit of air at the end of the fingers, which makes a
large difference, IME. I'm confident that these 2 or 3 layers will see me
safely down to my ultimate limit of the upper or mid teens.

Deacon: I've owned 2 pr of boiled wool and nylon or leather sheath mittens.
The last pair was from Outdoor Research, and they were so warm that at
least in the positive 20s F, I'd always end up removing the shells after
5-7 miles. OTOH, I had such a pair on that -20F (the high for the day)
skiing day long ago, and my hands were the only part of me that was cold,
until a friend lent me her down filled mittens.

I had trouble with the Outdoor Research shells on the bike -- slippery and
hard to reach the controls; this was the reason I sold them.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 6:01 AM, Belopsky  wrote:

> What do you all wear? It's down to 10*F here and getting colder. Have
> never been happy with my previous..
>
> Had 'hippo hands' on my Pugsley last winter w some insulated gloves (some
> cheapo insulation) and still wasn't enough. Wool liner was good but too
> thick to layer..
>
> I am thinking maybe some Mittens
> https://www.frostriver.com/?s=mittens_type=product
>
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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Deacon Patrick
If I'm holding on for dear life, I'm going too fast. Grin. Also, most 
single track is inaccessible save by snowshoe this time of year, riding is 
more limited when temps are uber cold.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 8:46:31 AM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Deacon,
>
> You successfully operate brakes and hold on for dear life singletracking 
> with mitts on an Albastache?!?!
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Garth

My only "tip" : Below 40 degrees, no matter what glove and mitten I wear my 
first layer is always a nitrile glove, the super thin "disposable" but 
reusable many many times . Yes, your basic "vapor barrier" to minimize 
evaporative heat loss.  When/if your hands start to sweat too much, simply 
adjust the insulating layer or even take the hands out of the insulating 
layer for awhile . 

Other than this, I've tried every glove/mitten type under the sun and none 
are better/worse than any other . Whether called "natural" or "synthetic" 
these are just meaningless pitches and names as everything works for 
someone . 




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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-05 Thread John A. Bennett
We sell Pogies at Rivelo. So far, just this model. They're $65. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/_Kv2n5mTwI/?taken-by=rivelo_pdx

Cheers,

John

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 5:15:51 PM UTC-8, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-05 Thread Will
I use ice-fishing mittens. Neoprene outer mit and poly inner. Completely 
works. Completely warm. Less than $20. You can shift bar ends and use brake 
levers. 

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 7:15:51 PM UTC-6, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Deacon Patrick
Tested to -20˚F. Boiled wool, with a nylon shell (or cotton canvas works 
too -- no waterproof stuff, the idea is it need to block wind, but breathe 
very well.). http://www.sweatersintl.com/dachstein_mitts.html

You could experiment with lobsterizing them by getting a size up and 
cutting/sewing them to split the fingers. This will diminish their warmth 
somewhat though, so be aware of that.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 6:01:26 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> What do you all wear? It's down to 10*F here and getting colder.
>

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[RBW] Re: A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

2016-01-05 Thread blakcloud
That is a really nice bike. Enjoy!

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Will
I have an Atlantis. Love it to death. Great bike. 

I was hoping the Appaloosa was going to be a Hilborne with canti-posts and 
more tire clearance. It is that. But it is also an extreme wheelbase bike. 
I'm not buying it... and I wanted Rivs for my boys. 

But 53 cm chainstays? Nope. Double top tubes... Nope. What happened to the 
basics? 


On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 6:46:23 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:
>
> There's a thorough description of the Joe on the latest BLUG.  I 
> especially like the photo of the fist between the seat tube & the fender.  
> It also talks about where this bike fits into the line-up, between Sam & 
> Hunq, and differences with Atlantis.  Good stuff all around.  At $2,400 
> it's the deal of the yearand next year too.  
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-05 Thread Minh
One of my favorite bikes to follow on the list!

Can i ask a related question?  To you or anyone else, i love the look and 
functionality of keeping a long pump on the bike but always find it in the 
way in practice (like when picking up the bike) or always wary of leaving 
the bike due to theft.  Any comments on how you real with that?
 

>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 1:16:26 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>>
>> Hey Riv bunch!  I was reflecting today on my beloved Hilsen after riding 
>> it for about 7-years, and decided to put up some thoughts in a "long term 
>> review".  Still my favorite bike, ever... 
>>
>> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/04/a-homer-hilsen-7-year-review/
>>
>> Brian Hanson
>> Seattle, WA
>> Bike Blog 
>> @stonehog
>> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
Yes they are.  How is that germane to the post I made?

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:54:09 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 01/05/2016 12:56 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote: 
> > In my opinion, anybody who wants to buy a sub $2000 steel frameset 
> > that allows them to get their handlebars LOW can find one.  If they 
> > love their handlebars LOW, then Rivendell Bicycle Works is probably 
> > not their best first choice.  LOW handlebar road bikes are not that 
> > difficult to find in the marketplace.  If there is somebody who is 
> > fiercely loyal to Rivendell and refuse to buy a bike anywhere else, 
> > and are equally intent on slamming that stem, then they are going to 
> > have to make a choice. 
> > 
>
> The Riv customs are still available, aren't they? 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 01/05/2016 01:55 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

Yes they are.  How is that germane to the post I made?


Making choices.  Riv customs are almost never mentioned anymore, and I 
wasn't sure they were even still available.  Since they are, for 
"fiercely loyal to Rivendell and intent on slamming stems" customers 
they should be one of the choices considered, even though they've been 
de-emphasized in the past 10 years or so.   Along with all the many, 
many other steel framesets out there.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:54:09 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:


On 01/05/2016 12:56 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> In my opinion, anybody who wants to buy a sub $2000 steel frameset
> that allows them to get their handlebars LOW can find one.  If they
> love their handlebars LOW, then Rivendell Bicycle Works is probably
> not their best first choice.  LOW handlebar road bikes are not that
> difficult to find in the marketplace.  If there is somebody who is
> fiercely loyal to Rivendell and refuse to buy a bike anywhere else,
> and are equally intent on slamming that stem, then they are
going to
> have to make a choice.
>

The Riv customs are still available, aren't they?




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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
OK, my post was following on the conversation about SUB-$2000 framesets. 
 That's why I said sub $2000 in my post.  A custom Rivendell frameset  is 
not sub $2000

I also said that people who desperately want really low handlebars on their 
steel bike should probably not come to Rivendell first.  In my opinion, 
Rivendell Bicycle Works is not the best shop to come to if you seek really 
low handlebars.  It is my opinion that it is easy to find a nice steel 
frameset that allows very low handlebars for under $2000.  Trying to force 
a negative rise stem and drop bars onto a Joe Appaloosa would be a very odd 
way to get your bars low, in my opinion.  

Furthermore, a Rivendell custom is not the relationship many people want or 
expect when buying a bespoke frameset.  A Rivendell Custom is not where 
you, the customer tell Rivendell exactly what to build.  A Rivendell Custom 
is where you, the customer, talk to Grant, and Grant elects to design a 
frameset for you, or elects not to.  If you plopped $3500 on the counter 
and insisted on a bike with the bars 10cm below the saddle, Grant would 
hand you your money back, and advise you of many excellent framebuilders 
who would take your business.  Somebody who was fiercely loyal to Rivendell 
and wants the bars 4 or 5cm below the saddle can buy a Roadeo, or a custom. 
 Neither of those is sub-$2000, but the options exist for not-excessive 
amounts of handlebar drop.  



On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 11:05:42 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 01/05/2016 01:55 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Yes they are.  How is that germane to the post I made?
>
>
> Making choices.  Riv customs are almost never mentioned anymore, and I 
> wasn't sure they were even still available.  Since they are, for "fiercely 
> loyal to Rivendell and intent on slamming stems" customers they should be 
> one of the choices considered, even though they've been de-emphasized in 
> the past 10 years or so.   Along with all the many, many other steel 
> framesets out there.
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:54:09 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 
>>
>>
>> On 01/05/2016 12:56 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote: 
>> > In my opinion, anybody who wants to buy a sub $2000 steel frameset 
>> > that allows them to get their handlebars LOW can find one.  If they 
>> > love their handlebars LOW, then Rivendell Bicycle Works is probably 
>> > not their best first choice.  LOW handlebar road bikes are not that 
>> > difficult to find in the marketplace.  If there is somebody who is 
>> > fiercely loyal to Rivendell and refuse to buy a bike anywhere else, 
>> > and are equally intent on slamming that stem, then they are going to 
>> > have to make a choice. 
>> > 
>>
>> The Riv customs are still available, aren't they? 
>>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

2016-01-05 Thread Linda G
How is toe overlap on the 51?

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 7:33:52 AM UTC-8, Lucero wrote:
>
> There aren't *too* many photos of Soma San Marcos builds online, so I 
> figured I'd post this as maybe I'll be doing a service to some curious 
> souls out there. Christmas pushed this Amos over the finish line and I 
> completed the build on New Year's Day. Photos: http://imgur.com/a/U12iY
>
> The frame is a 51 and fits my 80 PBH eerily perfectly. The ride is lively 
> and zippy, as expected, yet extremely confidence-inspiring in some way I 
> have yet to figure out. Maybe that's what the "sport touring" thing is all 
> about? Anyways, I don't weigh much and ride predominantly paved surfaces 
> here in San Francisco, but I can already see this San Marcos serving as an 
> excellent all-rounder. Will need to report back after some additional 
> fine-tuning (and perhaps a light tour / camping trip), but overall I'm 
> loving the ride and can't wait to put the bike to work.
>
> Parts: Velocity Atlas 650B wheelset, Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard 42 mm 
> tires, Sugino XD2 triple crankset, Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, MKS RMX 
> pedals, Shimano Claris derailleurs, Silver downtube friction shifters, 
> Tektro R559 brakes, FSA Duron X headset, Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto 
> Albatross bars, Tektro FL750 levers, Uno SP-248 seatpost, Brooks B17 
> Special Honey saddle, SKS P50 Longboard fenders, Crane brass bell, front (+ 
> medium Wald) and rear Nitto racks to be mounted soon.
>
> A note about the fenders/clearance: I had every intention of maxing out my 
> tire size on this bike, whether or not that meant I could run fenders, thus 
> the 42 mm Schwalbe Marathons. I'm not sure what they actually measure - 
> high 30s, maybe? Got to chatting with some folks at American Cyclery in SF, 
> who told me I should be able to run fenders just fine. Besides Rivendell 
> and maybe Soma, they would know best. No generous clearances to speak of, 
> but rear clearance is fine, front clearance is fine if not just a few mm 
> tighter. Doing great on asphalt, may not fare so well if you add mud to the 
> equation.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Steve Palincsar


On 01/05/2016 12:56 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
In my opinion, anybody who wants to buy a sub $2000 steel frameset 
that allows them to get their handlebars LOW can find one.  If they 
love their handlebars LOW, then Rivendell Bicycle Works is probably 
not their best first choice.  LOW handlebar road bikes are not that 
difficult to find in the marketplace.  If there is somebody who is 
fiercely loyal to Rivendell and refuse to buy a bike anywhere else, 
and are equally intent on slamming that stem, then they are going to 
have to make a choice.




The Riv customs are still available, aren't they?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Joe Bernard
I could ride a 46 Joe with dropbars, or a 51 with pullbacks. I'm not sure how 
we got to the idea that certain Rivs can't be outfitted with whatever bars 
people like. The smaller frame will have a shorter top- and head-tube, which 
gets them closer and below the saddle if you want. Easy!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Readers

2016-01-05 Thread Johnny Alien
I also have a bunch of catalogs: 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, Spring 02, Winter 02, 
Spring/Summer 04 and 19. 10 in all...very good shape.  *$40 shipped in the 
US*.

I have 2 extra copies of the number 5 issue if anyone needs just that one.

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[RBW] Anyone have the Stickpack?

2016-01-05 Thread Edwin W
I have one. I like the idea of it, but don't love love it. The felt lining of 
the straps can be a bit itchy if I have just a t shirt on. It is very simple. A 
bag with straps and top compartment. Not much else. 
The straps and top compartment can come off easily. It can pack up quite small. 
It should last a long time because it is made of sturdy and patchable canvas 
rather than thin and ripable nylon that other packs with those characteristics. 
$145 was kind of a lot for that, but my brother and I got them for each other 
last year for gifts. I haven't checked to see if he has used his. 

Edwin

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
In my opinion, anybody who wants to buy a sub $2000 steel frameset that 
allows them to get their handlebars LOW can find one.  If they love their 
handlebars LOW, then Rivendell Bicycle Works is probably not their best 
first choice.  LOW handlebar road bikes are not that difficult to find in 
the marketplace.  If there is somebody who is fiercely loyal to Rivendell 
and refuse to buy a bike anywhere else, and are equally intent on slamming 
that stem, then they are going to have to make a choice.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA  

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 7:56:01 AM UTC-8, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I ride with bars 1.3 below saddle.
> That maxes out my blue Sam. But I'm at 1.3 below saddle and it is great.
> If I wanted lower I'd have to cut the steerer.
> But I don't want lower. So it works out great.
> However, when I bought it I didn't know you couldn't go any lower on this 
> bike. If I was someone who liked lower, I would have had to return the 
> frame. 
>
> The Joe, and all the other sub-2k$ frames look like you can't get 
> handlebar height below saddle. Someone would have to confirm. They look 
> like they have really high exit points, sloping tubes, and steerer stacks. 
> If this is true, then there would  no longer be sub-2k$ RBW frames 
> available, new, for people who like riding bars below saddle. Just making 
> an observation. Someone would have to confirm.
>

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[RBW] FS: Extra Wide 11-40t cassette (9 speed IRD/Riv) & 1x9 drivetrain

2016-01-05 Thread Philip Kim
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/csird9w.htm

Currently, have this cassette mated to Shimano 5800 crankset w/ Wolftooth 
Chainring to convert to 1x9. I'm parting out my drive train

It have about 60 miles on the drive train. Planned to do "all road rides", 
finding my Cheviot is capable for that, so I'm planning on using this bike 
more for quick commuting/city riding, and 12-40t is too much gearing for DC.

Selling the Cassette $100 shipped ($95 local pickup DC). Bought it for $140 
new. Looks like you can't get it anywhere anymore. Also good to pair for 
trail bikes

Selling silver Shimano 105 5800 crankset with 38t Wolftooth chainring 
(included Tiagra 4700 external BB) for $150 ($140 local pick up DC)

Wolftooth "Road Link", this will allow your road rear derailleur to shift 
all rings flawlessly. You can of course use a longer b-screw for MTB 
derailleur, but the Road Link will allow longer shifting life 
(http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/small-components/products/roadlink).
 
$15 shipped ($10 local DC pick up)

Willing to sell everything for $255 shipped ($245 local pick up DC)

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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Belopsky
Great suggestions. Thanks all. I figured either a lobster mitt or something 
with a wind stopper and of course wool liner.

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[RBW] Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Daniel Jackson
Pogies all the way. 
Pierogies are tasty treats
Pogies are toasty

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-05 Thread Deacon Patrick
Kai,

I've debated that. If I were to do that I'd buy a larger pair and hope the 
extra width was adequate. With these sized "just right" on me, there is 
enough room for my finger to move comfortably, but lobsterizing them would 
make them snug -- and as soon as anything gets constricted in cold weather 
gear the blood flows less and they lose their heat source. Also, don't 
count on them having any stretch. These are solid beasties.

What I've found is that if something is jouncy enough that I need grip AND 
steep enough that I need brakes, I have no desire to take it fast enough to 
make it so jouncy, so I brake. Jouncy and flat, no need to ride the brakes. 
So I haven't been motivated to get a larger pair and experiment. Yet. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 10:06:51 PM UTC-7, Kainalu wrote:
>
> How much wiggle room in those nice looking boiled wool mittens? Enough to 
> stitch down the middle and lobsterize them? 

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-05 Thread William R.
Thanks Brian. I am honing in on the Thunder Burts right now. They fit within 
Grants max tire width of 55mm on the Joe Appaloosa that I will be getting. I 
would be very interested in Super Moto's if I thought there would be enough 
room for them. It's all a bit of hand wringing at this point as I am sure I 
will wait until the bike is delivered. Then I can measure and make a final 
decision. Until then there's a carousel of tires spinning around in my head!

Btw: great review of your Hilsen. Enjoyed it.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Lungimsam
I ride with bars 1.3 below saddle.
That maxes out my blue Sam. But I'm at 1.3 below saddle and it is great.
If I wanted lower I'd have to cut the steerer.
But I don't want lower. So it works out great.
However, when I bought it I didn't know you couldn't go any lower on this bike. 
If I was someone who liked lower, I would have had to return the frame. 

The Joe, and all the other sub-2k$ frames look like you can't get handlebar 
height below saddle. Someone would have to confirm. They look like they have 
really high exit points, sloping tubes, and steerer stacks. If this is true, 
then there would  no longer be sub-2k$ RBW frames available, new, for people 
who like riding bars below saddle. Just making an observation. Someone would 
have to confirm.

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[RBW] Re: 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-05 Thread dougP
Brian:

Thanks for the thoughtul write-up.  "New & improved" always gets so much 
attention for its novelty.  It's great to hear someone's experiences in 
using something over a long period of time.  Good stuff never gets obsolete.

dougP

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 10:16:26 PM UTC-8, stonehog wrote:
>
> Hey Riv bunch!  I was reflecting today on my beloved Hilsen after riding 
> it for about 7-years, and decided to put up some thoughts in a "long term 
> review".  Still my favorite bike, ever... 
>
> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/04/a-homer-hilsen-7-year-review/
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Eric Norris
Richard Sachs was the same way (still is, but for a very limited number of 
customers). I sent him a number of measurements of myself and the bike I was 
riding at the time, and he built a frame that reflected his idea of how a bike 
should be designed. It’s a marvelous bicycle, but not the same bike Grant would 
build, of course.

--Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
www.CampyOnly.com
Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
@Campyonlyguy


> On Jan 5, 2016, at 12:02 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> On 01/05/2016 02:38 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>> 
>> Furthermore, a Rivendell custom is not the relationship many people want or 
>> expect when buying a bespoke frameset.  A Rivendell Custom is not where you, 
>> the customer tell Rivendell exactly what to build.  A Rivendell Custom is 
>> where you, the customer, talk to Grant, and Grant elects to design a 
>> frameset for you, or elects not to.
> 
> That approach to "custom" isn't all that unusual.
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/05/2016 02:38 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:


Furthermore, a Rivendell custom is not the relationship many people 
want or expect when buying a bespoke frameset.  A Rivendell Custom is 
not where you, the customer tell Rivendell exactly what to build.  A 
Rivendell Custom is where you, the customer, talk to Grant, and Grant 
elects to design a frameset for you, or elects not to.


That approach to "custom" isn't all that unusual.

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[RBW] Re: Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
Great solution.  It's especially nice of you to provide a really thorough 
description and a great self-describing title.  I can imagine years from 
now, somebody searching this forum, will find that post, read it, and will 
have a frustrating problem solved.  That person will hopefully thank you.  

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 12:44:33 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> I've read many times on this forum that some Riv owners find their seat 
> posts to slip down. I'm the same. My Atlantis still has the stock Kalloy 
> seatpost, which has been slipping since I got the bike. On road or smoother 
> trail rides, it might not slip every ride, but every few rides it'd drop a 
> millimeter or two. Riding single track and bumpy roads would drop it a good 
> centimeter at times. I was frustrated.
>
> But now I've solved it!
>
> I started by removing the post and cleaning ALL the grease off the post 
> and the inside of the seat tube. With the whole thing clean as a whistle, I 
> applied grease ONLY to the inside of the seat-tube, and ONLY below the lug. 
> Basically i'm trying to keep the clamping mechanism grease-free. I didn't 
> put any grease on the post at all, as it would get lubed up when I 
> installed it as it slid past the seat-tube grease.
>
> Now the secret - I applied blue loctite ONLY to the section of the post 
> that would be inside the lug/clamp, which is about an inch of the post. If 
> you're not sure where to place it, you can put a strip of tape around the 
> post right where it exits your frame. I usually do that anyway so when I 
> remove the post for whatever reason, I know exactly how deep to install it 
> next time. 
>
> The purpose of grease is to prevent direct aluminum/steel contact 
> resulting in galling. Loctite does the same thing - it provides a barrier 
> between the two, while also providing a bit of a sticky surface rather than 
> slippery. Don't worry, it won't cause your seatpost to get stuck in there 
> forever. It's designed to prevent exactly that. I've been doing this for 
> about the last month and my post hasn't dropped once, even after a heavy 
> saddle bag was strapped below it and I rode rough trails. I loosened the 
> clamp to verify it was free and it spun easy. Problem solved! 
>
> Hope this helps others
>

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[RBW] 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-05 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Love that color, your write up was excellent as well.  Another Hilsen/Saluki 
wearing drop bars with class...

Bar transformation for my Saluki is approaching a 'when, not if' situation.  :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

2016-01-05 Thread Jim Bronson
It is time to sell some bikes to make room for a Clem.  I may let
loose of my 69cm Eisentraut frame, even.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 3:38 PM, David Banzer  wrote:
> Officially not a rumor. 65cm Clems in the next batch according to the
> newsletter. With the sloping top tube, a 65cm Clem would be pushing it for
> me. Glad I have my 59cm.
> David
> Chicago
>
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 11:22:05 AM UTC-6, Kainalu wrote:
>>
>> Big, as in mid to upper 60's Clems coming this year!? That's the word I
>> heard.
>> Anybody have any knowledge of this? Able to offer concreteish numbers?
>> Regardless, thank you RBW for establishing such a grear track record of
>> helping big folk get on smart and proper bikes.
>> Looking forward to what 2016 might hold
>> -Kai
>> Brooklyn NY
>
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[RBW] Re: A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

2016-01-05 Thread Lucero
Thanks, everyone!

Philip, I definitely had to get creative to mount the front fender. At the 
time I was thinking I could use a Paul Racer or a Dia Compe Mod 750 up 
front. Glad to hear the Racer works for you. Beautiful bike!

Tim, feel free to drop those new photos into this thread if/when you snap 
them. Looks like an awesome build. I feel the understated Tiburon Blue 
suits me better, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think the original 
pearly blue was gorgeous. Sorry to hear about the front rack and pannier 
situation, sounds like you need a matching set.

Linda, it's there, but to be honest I never thought of or noticed it until 
you asked. Thanks to the 650b and the expanded geometry, toe overlap is 
minimal.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 7:33:52 AM UTC-8, Lucero wrote:
>
> There aren't *too* many photos of Soma San Marcos builds online, so I 
> figured I'd post this as maybe I'll be doing a service to some curious 
> souls out there. Christmas pushed this Amos over the finish line and I 
> completed the build on New Year's Day. Photos: http://imgur.com/a/U12iY
>
> The frame is a 51 and fits my 80 PBH eerily perfectly. The ride is lively 
> and zippy, as expected, yet extremely confidence-inspiring in some way I 
> have yet to figure out. Maybe that's what the "sport touring" thing is all 
> about? Anyways, I don't weigh much and ride predominantly paved surfaces 
> here in San Francisco, but I can already see this San Marcos serving as an 
> excellent all-rounder. Will need to report back after some additional 
> fine-tuning (and perhaps a light tour / camping trip), but overall I'm 
> loving the ride and can't wait to put the bike to work.
>
> Parts: Velocity Atlas 650B wheelset, Schwalbe Marathon Greenguard 42 mm 
> tires, Sugino XD2 triple crankset, Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, MKS RMX 
> pedals, Shimano Claris derailleurs, Silver downtube friction shifters, 
> Tektro R559 brakes, FSA Duron X headset, Nitto Technomic stem, Nitto 
> Albatross bars, Tektro FL750 levers, Uno SP-248 seatpost, Brooks B17 
> Special Honey saddle, SKS P50 Longboard fenders, Crane brass bell, front (+ 
> medium Wald) and rear Nitto racks to be mounted soon.
>
> A note about the fenders/clearance: I had every intention of maxing out my 
> tire size on this bike, whether or not that meant I could run fenders, thus 
> the 42 mm Schwalbe Marathons. I'm not sure what they actually measure - 
> high 30s, maybe? Got to chatting with some folks at American Cyclery in SF, 
> who told me I should be able to run fenders just fine. Besides Rivendell 
> and maybe Soma, they would know best. No generous clearances to speak of, 
> but rear clearance is fine, front clearance is fine if not just a few mm 
> tighter. Doing great on asphalt, may not fare so well if you add mud to the 
> equation.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread dougP
"...fat bikes Riv would make, if they ever would..." is an intriguing 
idea.  Unsupervised elves in the wild could come up with some interesting 
ideas.  I think I'll stay tuned to this one.  

dougP

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 7:39:36 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Interesting that you mentioned Tumbleweed... they have been of 
> discussion elsewhere recently: http://www.tumbleweed.cc/ 
>
> Here's the great Jay Ritchey Mongolia bikepacking video featuring them 
> a bit: https://vimeo.com/149557122 
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 2:38 PM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote: 
> > Excellent point that while the ideal conditions for a fat bike in the 
> snow 
> > are "narrow" that delta becomes huge when they do apply, especially over 
> > 30k. Add to that the rocky trails of the Colorado Trail and Continental 
> > Divide Trail, and a fat bike makes more and more sense. H. 
> > 
> > With abandon, 
> > Patrick 
> > 
> > -- 
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> Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
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> an 
> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . 
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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[RBW] Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread David Person
Thanks Mark.  I swapped out the Kalloy post that came with my Sam with a Nitto 
S-83.  I too noticed that it tended to slip a little bit over time.  I removed 
it and wiped all the grease off the post and inside the seat tube (as well as 
the frame saver I applied when I assembled the bike).  I then applied a thin 
coating of anti-seize to the post.  Hasn't slipped since.

David Person

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Re: [RBW] Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread cyclotourist
I'll have to check into that if necessary... wonder if my LBS would have
it. I know the community shop doesn't... hmmm, maybe they need to invest in
one!!!

But green Loctite sounds like a good option in the mean time. I can look
and see a pretty good gap in the expansion cut... ain't nothing snug there!

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 3:03 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> At the bike shop, we'd use a Stein knurler if a the crown race on the fork
> was a tiny bit small for the given crown race.  It also can work for
> seatposts.  The tool put dozens of little grooves into the surface of the
> thing, which causes little ridges to rise up on either side of each
> groove.  Now your thing is effectively a slightly larger diameter, and so
> it's easier to get a tighter press fit, or easier to get grip with a clamp.
>
>
> My favorite old-timer mechanic was named Chuck.  Chuck would refer to the
> Stein Knurling Tool as "Metal-Grow".  Usage:  "This fork crown race is too
> loose.  Better put some Metal-Grow on it!"
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 2:15:23 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the idea, Mark. None of my Rivs, but my Gunnar has a
>> slightly oversiz seat tube. It's not the post, as I've tried multiple
>> ones, and all slip. I've tried carbon paste, and that doesn't grip
>> enough. Have been tempted to go to a 27.4 post, which I think would
>> fit (it's that far off). But will try the Loctite first, as that'll be
>> a bit cheaper!!!
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 12:44 PM, Mark Reimer  wrote:
>> > I've read many times on this forum that some Riv owners find their seat
>> > posts to slip down. I'm the same. My Atlantis still has the stock
>> Kalloy
>> > seatpost, which has been slipping since I got the bike. On road or
>> smoother
>> > trail rides, it might not slip every ride, but every few rides it'd
>> drop a
>> > millimeter or two. Riding single track and bumpy roads would drop it a
>> good
>> > centimeter at times. I was frustrated.
>> >
>> > But now I've solved it!
>> >
>> > I started by removing the post and cleaning ALL the grease off the post
>> and
>> > the inside of the seat tube. With the whole thing clean as a whistle, I
>> > applied grease ONLY to the inside of the seat-tube, and ONLY below the
>> lug.
>> > Basically i'm trying to keep the clamping mechanism grease-free. I
>> didn't
>> > put any grease on the post at all, as it would get lubed up when I
>> installed
>> > it as it slid past the seat-tube grease.
>> >
>> > Now the secret - I applied blue loctite ONLY to the section of the post
>> that
>> > would be inside the lug/clamp, which is about an inch of the post. If
>> you're
>> > not sure where to place it, you can put a strip of tape around the post
>> > right where it exits your frame. I usually do that anyway so when I
>> remove
>> > the post for whatever reason, I know exactly how deep to install it
>> next
>> > time.
>> >
>> > The purpose of grease is to prevent direct aluminum/steel contact
>> resulting
>> > in galling. Loctite does the same thing - it provides a barrier between
>> the
>> > two, while also providing a bit of a sticky surface rather than
>> slippery.
>> > Don't worry, it won't cause your seatpost to get stuck in there
>> forever.
>> > It's designed to prevent exactly that. I've been doing this for about
>> the
>> > last month and my post hasn't dropped once, even after a heavy saddle
>> bag
>> > was strapped below it and I rode rough trails. I loosened the clamp to
>> > verify it was free and it spun easy. Problem solved!
>> >
>> > Hope this helps others
>> >
>> > --
>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups
>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>> an
>> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>> > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
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"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread cyclotourist
Interesting that you mentioned Tumbleweed... they have been of
discussion elsewhere recently: http://www.tumbleweed.cc/

Here's the great Jay Ritchey Mongolia bikepacking video featuring them
a bit: https://vimeo.com/149557122


On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 2:38 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
> Excellent point that while the ideal conditions for a fat bike in the snow
> are "narrow" that delta becomes huge when they do apply, especially over
> 30k. Add to that the rocky trails of the Colorado Trail and Continental
> Divide Trail, and a fat bike makes more and more sense. H.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread Patrick Moore
With the undersized Syncros sp on my gofast, I just slathered blue Loctite
onto the post, grease be damned, and had no further problems.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 8:39 PM, cyclotourist  wrote:

> I'll have to check into that if necessary... wonder if my LBS would have
> it. I know the community shop doesn't... hmmm, maybe they need to invest in
> one!!!
>
> But green Loctite sounds like a good option in the mean time. I can look
> and see a pretty good gap in the expansion cut... ain't nothing snug there!
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 3:03 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> At the bike shop, we'd use a Stein knurler if a the crown race on the
>> fork was a tiny bit small for the given crown race.  It also can work for
>> seatposts.  The tool put dozens of little grooves into the surface of the
>> thing, which causes little ridges to rise up on either side of each
>> groove.  Now your thing is effectively a slightly larger diameter, and so
>> it's easier to get a tighter press fit, or easier to get grip with a clamp.
>>
>>
>> My favorite old-timer mechanic was named Chuck.  Chuck would refer to the
>> Stein Knurling Tool as "Metal-Grow".  Usage:  "This fork crown race is too
>> loose.  Better put some Metal-Grow on it!"
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 2:15:23 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks for the idea, Mark. None of my Rivs, but my Gunnar has a
>>> slightly oversiz seat tube. It's not the post, as I've tried multiple
>>> ones, and all slip. I've tried carbon paste, and that doesn't grip
>>> enough. Have been tempted to go to a 27.4 post, which I think would
>>> fit (it's that far off). But will try the Loctite first, as that'll be
>>> a bit cheaper!!!
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 12:44 PM, Mark Reimer 
>>> wrote:
>>> > I've read many times on this forum that some Riv owners find their
>>> seat
>>> > posts to slip down. I'm the same. My Atlantis still has the stock
>>> Kalloy
>>> > seatpost, which has been slipping since I got the bike. On road or
>>> smoother
>>> > trail rides, it might not slip every ride, but every few rides it'd
>>> drop a
>>> > millimeter or two. Riding single track and bumpy roads would drop it a
>>> good
>>> > centimeter at times. I was frustrated.
>>> >
>>> > But now I've solved it!
>>> >
>>> > I started by removing the post and cleaning ALL the grease off the
>>> post and
>>> > the inside of the seat tube. With the whole thing clean as a whistle,
>>> I
>>> > applied grease ONLY to the inside of the seat-tube, and ONLY below the
>>> lug.
>>> > Basically i'm trying to keep the clamping mechanism grease-free. I
>>> didn't
>>> > put any grease on the post at all, as it would get lubed up when I
>>> installed
>>> > it as it slid past the seat-tube grease.
>>> >
>>> > Now the secret - I applied blue loctite ONLY to the section of the
>>> post that
>>> > would be inside the lug/clamp, which is about an inch of the post. If
>>> you're
>>> > not sure where to place it, you can put a strip of tape around the
>>> post
>>> > right where it exits your frame. I usually do that anyway so when I
>>> remove
>>> > the post for whatever reason, I know exactly how deep to install it
>>> next
>>> > time.
>>> >
>>> > The purpose of grease is to prevent direct aluminum/steel contact
>>> resulting
>>> > in galling. Loctite does the same thing - it provides a barrier
>>> between the
>>> > two, while also providing a bit of a sticky surface rather than
>>> slippery.
>>> > Don't worry, it won't cause your seatpost to get stuck in there
>>> forever.
>>> > It's designed to prevent exactly that. I've been doing this for about
>>> the
>>> > last month and my post hasn't dropped once, even after a heavy saddle
>>> bag
>>> > was strapped below it and I rode rough trails. I loosened the clamp to
>>> > verify it was free and it spun easy. Problem solved!
>>> >
>>> > Hope this helps others
>>> >
>>> > --
>>> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups
>>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an
>>> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>> > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>>> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Cheers,
>>> David
>>>
>>> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>>>
>>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>>
>> --
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>> For more options, 

[RBW] NEED a tip for slipping seatpost head

2016-01-05 Thread Reid
OK, boosting off of the "slipping seatpost" topic ...

My two Rivs both have what I think is the Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow 
seatpost, the one with the single adjustment bolt for the angle of the 
seat. The seatposts will not keep the seats at the angle at which I set 
them. Over just a few miles, the seat nose starts going up, the back going 
down. In the description of the seatpost on the Riv web site, it even says, 
"put some muscle in to it" to get it to stay. I've tried the "gorilla" 
treatment on both posts and no luck.

Does anyone know the secret for these things? I'm quite disappointed in 
Nitto and Riv unless I can find some way to make these work. Oh, and I'm a 
flyweight kinda guy, well under 130 lbs, so that should not be an issue.

Any ideas much appreciated.

Reid

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Re: [RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

2016-01-05 Thread Tom Harrop
If they do the step-through version in 65 cm I'm going to find it pretty hard 
to resist...

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Re: [RBW] Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread cyclotourist
Thanks for the idea, Mark. None of my Rivs, but my Gunnar has a
slightly oversiz seat tube. It's not the post, as I've tried multiple
ones, and all slip. I've tried carbon paste, and that doesn't grip
enough. Have been tempted to go to a 27.4 post, which I think would
fit (it's that far off). But will try the Loctite first, as that'll be
a bit cheaper!!!

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 12:44 PM, Mark Reimer  wrote:
> I've read many times on this forum that some Riv owners find their seat
> posts to slip down. I'm the same. My Atlantis still has the stock Kalloy
> seatpost, which has been slipping since I got the bike. On road or smoother
> trail rides, it might not slip every ride, but every few rides it'd drop a
> millimeter or two. Riding single track and bumpy roads would drop it a good
> centimeter at times. I was frustrated.
>
> But now I've solved it!
>
> I started by removing the post and cleaning ALL the grease off the post and
> the inside of the seat tube. With the whole thing clean as a whistle, I
> applied grease ONLY to the inside of the seat-tube, and ONLY below the lug.
> Basically i'm trying to keep the clamping mechanism grease-free. I didn't
> put any grease on the post at all, as it would get lubed up when I installed
> it as it slid past the seat-tube grease.
>
> Now the secret - I applied blue loctite ONLY to the section of the post that
> would be inside the lug/clamp, which is about an inch of the post. If you're
> not sure where to place it, you can put a strip of tape around the post
> right where it exits your frame. I usually do that anyway so when I remove
> the post for whatever reason, I know exactly how deep to install it next
> time.
>
> The purpose of grease is to prevent direct aluminum/steel contact resulting
> in galling. Loctite does the same thing - it provides a barrier between the
> two, while also providing a bit of a sticky surface rather than slippery.
> Don't worry, it won't cause your seatpost to get stuck in there forever.
> It's designed to prevent exactly that. I've been doing this for about the
> last month and my post hasn't dropped once, even after a heavy saddle bag
> was strapped below it and I rode rough trails. I loosened the clamp to
> verify it was free and it spun easy. Problem solved!
>
> Hope this helps others
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

2016-01-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
Kai

Looks like you are in business, with a 65 Clem!  Congrats.  That's MEGA

On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 9:22:05 AM UTC-8, Kainalu wrote:
>
> Big, as in mid to upper 60's Clems coming this year!? That's the word I 
> heard.
> Anybody have any knowledge of this? Able to offer concreteish numbers? 
> Regardless, thank you RBW for establishing such a grear track record of 
> helping big folk get on smart and proper bikes. 
> Looking forward to what 2016 might hold
> -Kai
> Brooklyn NY 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Mark Reimer
*The topic of

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 4:05 PM, Mark Reimer  wrote:

> I was definitely working much harder than the fat bikes, no doubt. The
> trail was about 30km long and both fat bikers could ride about 95% of it or
> more. I could ride about 70% of it, and almost all of that was a struggle.
> If I could stay in a fat bike tire track, it'd be fine. Anything else and
> i'd be washing all over. The trail had been mostly packed by snowmobiles,
> but it wasn't enough to keep my tires from cutting through or sliding
> around. And then there were the drifts..
>
> I agree the fat bikes excel in a fairly narrow band of trail conditions.
> Most of the time they are no better off than I am. This was one of those
> times where conditions were 'just so' to make them ideal for fat bikers,
> but a bit miserable for a 29er.
>
> The tops of Tumbleweed bikes was raised on the ride, which was new to me.
> It's a new fit bike company in the start-up phase right now, owned by a
> former Riv employee, who described his bikes as 'fat bikes Riv would make,
> if they ever would'. Curious what that means... My heart would skip a beat
> for a lugged 27.5+ bike.
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 3:54 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>
>> Awesome! Oh, there were stars, they just were cloaked in cloud! Grin.
>> Awesome! I love it! -14˚C is definitely friendlier than -30˚C.
>>
>> I am curious how much more total effort you felt you had vs. the fatbike
>> in those conditions. It seems to me the delta between 2.1" and 4" is
>> surprisingly small where the 4" is ridable but the 2.1" is not. Does that
>> question make sense?
>>
>> I love that you slept outside a warming hut just because! Brilliant!
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
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>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Mark Reimer
I was definitely working much harder than the fat bikes, no doubt. The
trail was about 30km long and both fat bikers could ride about 95% of it or
more. I could ride about 70% of it, and almost all of that was a struggle.
If I could stay in a fat bike tire track, it'd be fine. Anything else and
i'd be washing all over. The trail had been mostly packed by snowmobiles,
but it wasn't enough to keep my tires from cutting through or sliding
around. And then there were the drifts..

I agree the fat bikes excel in a fairly narrow band of trail conditions.
Most of the time they are no better off than I am. This was one of those
times where conditions were 'just so' to make them ideal for fat bikers,
but a bit miserable for a 29er.

The tops of Tumbleweed bikes was raised on the ride, which was new to me.
It's a new fit bike company in the start-up phase right now, owned by a
former Riv employee, who described his bikes as 'fat bikes Riv would make,
if they ever would'. Curious what that means... My heart would skip a beat
for a lugged 27.5+ bike.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 3:54 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Awesome! Oh, there were stars, they just were cloaked in cloud! Grin.
> Awesome! I love it! -14˚C is definitely friendlier than -30˚C.
>
> I am curious how much more total effort you felt you had vs. the fatbike
> in those conditions. It seems to me the delta between 2.1" and 4" is
> surprisingly small where the 4" is ridable but the 2.1" is not. Does that
> question make sense?
>
> I love that you slept outside a warming hut just because! Brilliant!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> --
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[RBW] WTT - Nitto mini rack for R14

2016-01-05 Thread 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch
I have both a Nitto mini Front Rack and Mark's Rack M1 w/ related hardware. 
I'll trade either for your Nitto R14 rear rack. 

Paul Germain
Midlothian, Va.

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[RBW] Re: Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread Ron Mc
if that's not enough, try loctite Green (209) on the post

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[RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Deacon Patrick
Excellent point that while the ideal conditions for a fat bike in the snow 
are "narrow" that delta becomes huge when they do apply, especially over 
30k. Add to that the rocky trails of the Colorado Trail and Continental 
Divide Trail, and a fat bike makes more and more sense. H.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Rod Holland
+1 for the Empire Wool and Canvas IceBike Mittens! Love 'em.

Then there are various ski gloves. I went nuts with those during Boston's 
miserable winter last year. Will be testing a few that I got on sale at the end 
of the season out this season.

One trick is to keep the core toasty... that makes for more generous 
circulation to the periphery.

rod

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Re: [RBW] Thunder Burts and Snow

2016-01-05 Thread Mark Reimer
Glad the TB are working for you in winter Deacon. I wish they would for me. 
I've been running a really aggressive knobby Maxxis tire, can't remember 
the model, and while it bites like crazy at low pressures, man... I feel 
like I'm dragging a chain. If I increase the pressure I can zip along on 
the pavement fine, but BZZ etc. Plus they don't hold the fast 
corners very well when pumped way up. 

I've been thinking about trying the TBs again on the weekend when the 
temperature is slated to drop below -20C for the next few weeks. Some good, 
proper cold should pack down the trails. I always found a 32mm file tread 
gripped HARD in that condition, and the TB isn't much more than that in 
terms of tread, so I'm hopeful. I normally run them around 25psi in summer 
or so, but I had them as low as 13-15ish when it snowed and I was still 
sliding out left right and centre. 

I'll also second the recommendation of the TB as the perfect all-rounder 
tire. They are fantastic on pavement, and even better on gravel and trails. 
TBs are an incredible tire. 

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, William R. wrote:
>
> Thanks Brian. I am honing in on the Thunder Burts right now. They fit 
> within Grants max tire width of 55mm on the Joe Appaloosa that I will be 
> getting. I would be very interested in Super Moto's if I thought there 
> would be enough room for them. It's all a bit of hand wringing at this 
> point as I am sure I will wait until the bike is delivered. Then I can 
> measure and make a final decision. Until then there's a carousel of tires 
> spinning around in my head!
>
> Btw: great review of your Hilsen. Enjoyed it.
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread William deRosset
Set yhe Appaloosa up as a drop-bar bike? The Appaloosa geometry sure reads like 
a bike designed for upright bars, and it is specified as such. Also, because it 
has a threaded steerer and reinforced head tube lugs, you won't be cutting it 
down to lower the bars. It is compatible with drop bars, in the same sense that 
an early Ritchey mountain bike is compatible.


I think you have outlined the drop-bar options in your post. 

Best Regards,
Will
William M deRosset
Fort Collins CO

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread mikel66...@juno.com
carbon paste works also. its a gritty compound that grabs well

4 Common Foods 'Destroying' Your Digestive Health ...
Hattaka K et al, "Effect of long term consumption of probiotic milk on ...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/568c305d8d74e305d0aa7st03duc

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[RBW] Re: Tip for Riv owners with slipping seatposts!

2016-01-05 Thread Metin Uz
This hits me as a rather unorthodox solution to a common problem. Your post 
is probably slipping because it's slightly undersized. I have had good luck 
using carbon fiber assembly paste in such situations (also for slipping 
stems). 

--Metin

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 12:44:33 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> I've read many times on this forum that some Riv owners find their seat 
> posts to slip down. I'm the same. My Atlantis still has the stock Kalloy 
> seatpost, which has been slipping since I got the bike. On road or smoother 
> trail rides, it might not slip every ride, but every few rides it'd drop a 
> millimeter or two. Riding single track and bumpy roads would drop it a good 
> centimeter at times. I was frustrated.
>
> But now I've solved it!
>
> I started by removing the post and cleaning ALL the grease off the post 
> and the inside of the seat tube. With the whole thing clean as a whistle, I 
> applied grease ONLY to the inside of the seat-tube, and ONLY below the lug. 
> Basically i'm trying to keep the clamping mechanism grease-free. I didn't 
> put any grease on the post at all, as it would get lubed up when I 
> installed it as it slid past the seat-tube grease.
>
> Now the secret - I applied blue loctite ONLY to the section of the post 
> that would be inside the lug/clamp, which is about an inch of the post. If 
> you're not sure where to place it, you can put a strip of tape around the 
> post right where it exits your frame. I usually do that anyway so when I 
> remove the post for whatever reason, I know exactly how deep to install it 
> next time. 
>
> The purpose of grease is to prevent direct aluminum/steel contact 
> resulting in galling. Loctite does the same thing - it provides a barrier 
> between the two, while also providing a bit of a sticky surface rather than 
> slippery. Don't worry, it won't cause your seatpost to get stuck in there 
> forever. It's designed to prevent exactly that. I've been doing this for 
> about the last month and my post hasn't dropped once, even after a heavy 
> saddle bag was strapped below it and I rode rough trails. I loosened the 
> clamp to verify it was free and it spun easy. Problem solved! 
>
> Hope this helps others
>

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[RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

2016-01-05 Thread David Banzer
Officially not a rumor. 65cm Clems in the next batch according to the 
newsletter. With the sloping top tube, a 65cm Clem would be pushing it for 
me. Glad I have my 59cm.
David
Chicago

On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 11:22:05 AM UTC-6, Kainalu wrote:
>
> Big, as in mid to upper 60's Clems coming this year!? That's the word I 
> heard.
> Anybody have any knowledge of this? Able to offer concreteish numbers? 
> Regardless, thank you RBW for establishing such a grear track record of 
> helping big folk get on smart and proper bikes. 
> Looking forward to what 2016 might hold
> -Kai
> Brooklyn NY 

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[RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Mark Reimer
I just realized I titled this sleeping under the stars, when in fact there 
were no stars. Hah! I'm sure you get the idea though. 

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 3:28:24 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Just before the end of the year, I had a chance to go on a mid-week s24o 
> with two friends. I had been wanting to try sleeping outside in winter 
> again. The last (and first) time I tried it was a downright uncivilized 
> -32C. Tonight it was forecasted to be -14C. Much more to my liking. 
>
> So a plan was hatched. Meet at 7pm, ride 35km of rail trails to our usual 
> cross country ski warming hut, and sleep outside. Staying at the hut would 
> provide an 'insurance policy' in the event something didn't work out and 
> one (or all) of us needed to get inside to warm up. 
>
> My two partners, Ian and Hal, had snowshoed out the night before to build 
> snow pile for a Quinzee. They were keen to try hollowing it out on arrival 
> and sleeping inside. In doing this, they were also able to explore the 
> trail conditions: deep snow in places, drifts, best to ride a fat bike. 
> Would a (f)Atlantis do? Time to find out. 
>
> Departure day came and we rolled out into the dark at 7pm. I was peeling 
> off layers within the first few KM. It's amazing how the world can look 
> like a frozen wasteland and yet all I need to stay warm 'up top' once I'm 
> moving is a merino wool sweater and thin base layer. 
>
> Leaving the city limits was easy. Trails were hard and fast. Then we hit 
> the wide. open. bald. exposed. prairies. Riding here at night is weird. 
> Everything is pitch black in all directions except the beam of your 
> headlight. I struggled to stay on the bike as we hit drifts and my 2.2 
> tires cut through the soft snow. Forced to walk, I followed Ian, who also 
> dismounted from time to time even with a fat bike.
>
>
> 
>
>
> I had to push my bike the last 3-4km through snow just below my knees. 
> That was exhausting. That brought us to the beginning of a field. Our cabin 
> was on the far side. No trail, just snow. So Ian and Hal traded breaking 
> snow, which enabled me to roll the Atlantis a bit easier in their tracks. 
>
> We arrived and made a fire in the shack. Success! Flasks were passed 
> around, chocolate consumed, spirits high. A couple of skiers popped in with 
> a beautiful husky named Mika. 
>
>
> 
>
> At about 12:30 or so we headed outside for sleep. That is hard, leaving a 
> warm cabin to lay down in the snow for the night. But I was excited to try 
> my 'new' winter setup:
> - Big Agnes ground sheet from my tent
> - thermarest z-lite SOL
> - thermarest prolite on top of the SOL
> - North Face -30C synthetic bag
> - tent rain fly on top to minimize the moisture on the bag. Frost was 
> forecasted, so this was an experiment to stay a bit dryer. I don't own a 
> bivvy, so this was the next best thing. 
>
> For the most part, I slept quite well. My feet got a bit cold through the 
> night, but the rest of me was just fine. It was nice to look up at the 
> trees. Too bad there were no stars. I was glad to be outside though - the 
> last time I slept in one of these small cabins I got a minor 'bout of 
> carbon monoxide poisoning. Being outside, I had nothing to worry about but 
> staying warm, and that seemed to be going just fine. 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Morning came and we made coffee and breakfast before heading out. The push 
> through the field was much easier going back. After pushing so many KMs the 
> night before, I elected to stick to the gravel road heading home. We saw an 
> eagle soaring above a stretch of open river. Pace was comfortable. Humidity 
> was high. My beard quickly became an ice fortress, drawing some amused 
> looks as we passed walkers and other cyclists. 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> Home by 12:30. One of my favourite things about these kind of trips is 
> laying on the couch afterward, having a coffee, reflecting on the fact that 
> only a few hours earlier I had woken up in the middle of the woods in the 
> winter. That's pretty cool, I'd say. 
>
>
> Enjoy the ride!
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Mark Reimer
Just before the end of the year, I had a chance to go on a mid-week s24o 
with two friends. I had been wanting to try sleeping outside in winter 
again. The last (and first) time I tried it was a downright uncivilized 
-32C. Tonight it was forecasted to be -14C. Much more to my liking. 

So a plan was hatched. Meet at 7pm, ride 35km of rail trails to our usual 
cross country ski warming hut, and sleep outside. Staying at the hut would 
provide an 'insurance policy' in the event something didn't work out and 
one (or all) of us needed to get inside to warm up. 

My two partners, Ian and Hal, had snowshoed out the night before to build 
snow pile for a Quinzee. They were keen to try hollowing it out on arrival 
and sleeping inside. In doing this, they were also able to explore the 
trail conditions: deep snow in places, drifts, best to ride a fat bike. 
Would a (f)Atlantis do? Time to find out. 

Departure day came and we rolled out into the dark at 7pm. I was peeling 
off layers within the first few KM. It's amazing how the world can look 
like a frozen wasteland and yet all I need to stay warm 'up top' once I'm 
moving is a merino wool sweater and thin base layer. 

Leaving the city limits was easy. Trails were hard and fast. Then we hit 
the wide. open. bald. exposed. prairies. Riding here at night is weird. 
Everything is pitch black in all directions except the beam of your 
headlight. I struggled to stay on the bike as we hit drifts and my 2.2 
tires cut through the soft snow. Forced to walk, I followed Ian, who also 
dismounted from time to time even with a fat bike.




I had to push my bike the last 3-4km through snow just below my knees. That 
was exhausting. That brought us to the beginning of a field. Our cabin was 
on the far side. No trail, just snow. So Ian and Hal traded breaking snow, 
which enabled me to roll the Atlantis a bit easier in their tracks. 

We arrived and made a fire in the shack. Success! Flasks were passed 
around, chocolate consumed, spirits high. A couple of skiers popped in with 
a beautiful husky named Mika. 



At about 12:30 or so we headed outside for sleep. That is hard, leaving a 
warm cabin to lay down in the snow for the night. But I was excited to try 
my 'new' winter setup:
- Big Agnes ground sheet from my tent
- thermarest z-lite SOL
- thermarest prolite on top of the SOL
- North Face -30C synthetic bag
- tent rain fly on top to minimize the moisture on the bag. Frost was 
forecasted, so this was an experiment to stay a bit dryer. I don't own a 
bivvy, so this was the next best thing. 

For the most part, I slept quite well. My feet got a bit cold through the 
night, but the rest of me was just fine. It was nice to look up at the 
trees. Too bad there were no stars. I was glad to be outside though - the 
last time I slept in one of these small cabins I got a minor 'bout of 
carbon monoxide poisoning. Being outside, I had nothing to worry about but 
staying warm, and that seemed to be going just fine. 







Morning came and we made coffee and breakfast before heading out. The push 
through the field was much easier going back. After pushing so many KMs the 
night before, I elected to stick to the gravel road heading home. We saw an 
eagle soaring above a stretch of open river. Pace was comfortable. Humidity 
was high. My beard quickly became an ice fortress, drawing some amused 
looks as we passed walkers and other cyclists. 







Home by 12:30. One of my favourite things about these kind of trips is 
laying on the couch afterward, having a coffee, reflecting on the fact that 
only a few hours earlier I had woken up in the middle of the woods in the 
winter. That's pretty cool, I'd say. 


Enjoy the ride!




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[RBW] Re: Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Kieran J
I picked up a pair of these mitts last year (probably on Deac's 
recommendation) and they are great!! I wear them under a long nylon MEC 
shell mitt with grippy palm area and cuff cinches, and it's a great combo.

I wore them yesterday and this morning commuting to work here in Toronto 
(-25 C/-13 F with windchill, first real cold of this winter) and I was 
comfy with only a slight thumb chill.

TG it's warming up again!

KJ


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 10:42:41 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Tested to -20˚F. Boiled wool, with a nylon shell (or cotton canvas works 
> too -- no waterproof stuff, the idea is it need to block wind, but breathe 
> very well.). http://www.sweatersintl.com/dachstein_mitts.html
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Shoji Takahashi
That beard-cicle is awesome. 

I can't imagine sleeping tent-less. Last time I did that backpacking, I was 
s cold. I under-sleeping bagged that time. Maybe next time I'll borrow 
a colder-rated bag. 

Looking forward to your pics and stories in 2016, Mark.
All the best, shoji


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 4:28:24 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Just before the end of the year, I had a chance to go on a mid-week s24o 
> with two friends. I had been wanting to try sleeping outside in winter 
> again. The last (and first) time I tried it was a downright uncivilized 
> -32C. Tonight it was forecasted to be -14C. Much more to my liking. 
>
> So a plan was hatched. Meet at 7pm, ride 35km of rail trails to our usual 
> cross country ski warming hut, and sleep outside. Staying at the hut would 
> provide an 'insurance policy' in the event something didn't work out and 
> one (or all) of us needed to get inside to warm up. 
>
> My two partners, Ian and Hal, had snowshoed out the night before to build 
> snow pile for a Quinzee. They were keen to try hollowing it out on arrival 
> and sleeping inside. In doing this, they were also able to explore the 
> trail conditions: deep snow in places, drifts, best to ride a fat bike. 
> Would a (f)Atlantis do? Time to find out. 
>
> Departure day came and we rolled out into the dark at 7pm. I was peeling 
> off layers within the first few KM. It's amazing how the world can look 
> like a frozen wasteland and yet all I need to stay warm 'up top' once I'm 
> moving is a merino wool sweater and thin base layer. 
>
> Leaving the city limits was easy. Trails were hard and fast. Then we hit 
> the wide. open. bald. exposed. prairies. Riding here at night is weird. 
> Everything is pitch black in all directions except the beam of your 
> headlight. I struggled to stay on the bike as we hit drifts and my 2.2 
> tires cut through the soft snow. Forced to walk, I followed Ian, who also 
> dismounted from time to time even with a fat bike.
>
>
> 
>
>
> I had to push my bike the last 3-4km through snow just below my knees. 
> That was exhausting. That brought us to the beginning of a field. Our cabin 
> was on the far side. No trail, just snow. So Ian and Hal traded breaking 
> snow, which enabled me to roll the Atlantis a bit easier in their tracks. 
>
> We arrived and made a fire in the shack. Success! Flasks were passed 
> around, chocolate consumed, spirits high. A couple of skiers popped in with 
> a beautiful husky named Mika. 
>
>
> 
>
> At about 12:30 or so we headed outside for sleep. That is hard, leaving a 
> warm cabin to lay down in the snow for the night. But I was excited to try 
> my 'new' winter setup:
> - Big Agnes ground sheet from my tent
> - thermarest z-lite SOL
> - thermarest prolite on top of the SOL
> - North Face -30C synthetic bag
> - tent rain fly on top to minimize the moisture on the bag. Frost was 
> forecasted, so this was an experiment to stay a bit dryer. I don't own a 
> bivvy, so this was the next best thing. 
>
> For the most part, I slept quite well. My feet got a bit cold through the 
> night, but the rest of me was just fine. It was nice to look up at the 
> trees. Too bad there were no stars. I was glad to be outside though - the 
> last time I slept in one of these small cabins I got a minor 'bout of 
> carbon monoxide poisoning. Being outside, I had nothing to worry about but 
> staying warm, and that seemed to be going just fine. 
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Morning came and we made coffee and breakfast before heading out. The push 
> through the field was much easier going back. After pushing so many KMs the 
> night before, I elected to stick to the gravel road heading home. We saw an 
> eagle soaring above a stretch of open river. Pace was comfortable. Humidity 
> was high. My beard quickly became an ice fortress, drawing some amused 
> looks as we passed walkers and other cyclists. 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> Home by 12:30. One of my favourite things about these kind of trips is 
> laying on the couch afterward, having a coffee, reflecting on the fact that 
> only a few hours earlier I had woken up in the middle of the woods in the 
> winter. That's pretty cool, I'd say. 
>
>
> Enjoy the ride!
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Last s24o of 2015, sleeping under the stars in the cold!

2016-01-05 Thread Deacon Patrick
Awesome! Oh, there were stars, they just were cloaked in cloud! Grin. 
Awesome! I love it! -14˚C is definitely friendlier than -30˚C.

I am curious how much more total effort you felt you had vs. the fatbike in 
those conditions. It seems to me the delta between 2.1" and 4" is 
surprisingly small where the 4" is ridable but the 2.1" is not. Does that 
question make sense?

I love that you slept outside a warming hut just because! Brilliant!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Winter gloves

2016-01-05 Thread Belopsky
What do you all wear? It's down to 10*F here and getting colder. Have never 
been happy with my previous..

Had 'hippo hands' on my Pugsley last winter w some insulated gloves (some 
cheapo insulation) and still wasn't enough. Wool liner was good but too 
thick to layer..

I am thinking maybe some 
Mittens https://www.frostriver.com/?s=mittens_type=product

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[RBW] Re: 7-yr Hilsen Review

2016-01-05 Thread Philip Kim
love reading stonehog!

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 1:16:26 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>
> Hey Riv bunch!  I was reflecting today on my beloved Hilsen after riding 
> it for about 7-years, and decided to put up some thoughts in a "long term 
> review".  Still my favorite bike, ever... 
>
> http://stonehog.com/2016/01/04/a-homer-hilsen-7-year-review/
>
> Brian Hanson
> Seattle, WA
> Bike Blog 
> @stonehog
> stonehogboɥǝuoʇs
>

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[RBW] Any Rivsters in the Vail Valley area?

2016-01-05 Thread 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch
Hi Chad, I am about 150 miles down stream in the Grand Valley. If you are ever 
down this way, we could ride through the Colorado NM or some single track in 
the Fruita area. 

PM me at your convenience. 

Best, 

Joe Ramey

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[RBW] Any Rivsters in the Vail Valley area?

2016-01-05 Thread 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch
Hi Chad, I am about 150 miles down stream in the Grand Valley. If you are ever 
down this way, we could ride through the Colorado NM or some single track in 
the Fruita area. 

PM me at your convenience. 

Best, 

Joe Ramey

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[RBW] Re: Any Rivsters in the Vail Valley area?

2016-01-05 Thread Deacon Patrick
I live near Colorado Springs, so if you are in the area and want to play 
around Pikes Peak, let me know!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 5:35:00 PM UTC-7, Chad wrote:
>
> I recently became a part time resident of Edwards, CO.

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[RBW] Re: Why slick tires don't stick well

2016-01-05 Thread Michael Hechmer
Jan's observations on tread design makes a lot of sense to me, and I think, 
having had roly-poly,ruffy tuffy and Jack Browns, (along with Compass, 
panaracer, pari-moto, Michelin, and Schwabe marathon racers, and avoctes) 
that GP believes the same.  The concern I often have with tires, especially 
since retiring, has become sidewall life.  Given that I have three singles 
and a tandem, it takes us a long time to wear out the tread and casing on 
good tires, but I begin to worry about solar driven deterioration in the 
sidewalls.  I don't like to even think about a hi speed front sidewall tire 
failure; but given the price of tires I hate to discard tires with a good 
looking base.  How long, regardless of mileage, can a rider rely on the 
sidewall?

Michael

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 9:19:06 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> Sometimes, it seems that tire tread is just about "design", but there 
> actually are real reasons why some tires stick better than others, 
> especially in the wet...
>
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/01/05/why-slick-tires-dont-stick-well/
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Joe Bernard
I think the "problem", as it were, for Riv investing in a Ram/Rom budget bike 
now is there's already plenty on the market. Lugged Taiwanese road bikes are 
not hard to find anymore, and in fact Rivendell  worked with SOMA to produce 
one in the San Marcos a couple years ago. I think Grant & Co. would rather work 
on bikes that aren't as easily cross-shopped with some frame at a fire sale 
price on Ebay. Which, incidentally, happened with the San Marcos. They ended up 
competing with online sales of their own design. Annoying!

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread Bill Lindsay
Correct as usual, Joe.  People waiting for a budget Roadeo should buy a 
Black Mountain Cycles road bike today and ride happy forever.  

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I think the "problem", as it were, for Riv investing in a Ram/Rom budget 
> bike now is there's already plenty on the market. Lugged Taiwanese road 
> bikes are not hard to find anymore, and in fact Rivendell  worked with SOMA 
> to produce one in the San Marcos a couple years ago. I think Grant & Co. 
> would rather work on bikes that aren't as easily cross-shopped with some 
> frame at a fire sale price on Ebay. Which, incidentally, happened with the 
> San Marcos. They ended up competing with online sales of their own design. 
> Annoying!

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[RBW] Re: Pogies for Albastache?

2016-01-05 Thread iamkeith
My wife and I use "Moose Mits" on our snow bikes, both with highly-swept 
alt-bars (Mary and Carnegies, respectively) and like them very much.   I 
had a moment just now to put them on my daughter's bike with regular 
moustache bars, just to see how they'd work. Sorry - don't have any 
albastache bikes yet, so this is as close as I could get.   Some pics 
below, in case it is helpful. ( either to add or eliminate them from 
consideration)










They are doable, but not great.   The main "issues" being: 1) It is a bit 
slower getting your hand in and out of the pogie.  On straight, flat bars 
or the ones we use, it's almost as easy to grab the bar as if they weren't 
attached; and 2) You can't pull the pogie all the way onto the bar 
(rearward), so you can't close the flap that's supposed to keep spindrift 
out when you're not using the bike.  They still work well as a windshield 
for your hands though, and do not interfere with brake lever operation.   
All that said, I suspect they'd work  a bit better on albastache bars, 
because they're straighter adjacent to the stem.

They have a drop-bar version too, but I haven't seen them and don't know 
how they'd work: 

 http://moosemitts.com/moose-mitts.html

For what it's worth



On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anyone found a non custom set of pogies out there that works well for the 
> albastache?
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe on the BLUG

2016-01-05 Thread 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch
While the phrase "sit-up-and-beg" might be fairly descriptive, I feel like 
it reflects a drop bar view of the world, and is perhaps somewhat demeaning 
to riders who are capable of enjoying a more upright stance on a bicycle. 
When riding about on my Clementine, I sit up and beg for no one. I would 
describe my body position as stately, yet convivial. It reflects a more 
observant posture toward one's surroundings, less self-involved as a body 
hunched over the handlebars, eyes forced forward, neck under strain. In the 
convivial stance, one is more apt to notice a neighbor on the side of the 
road; it offers an easier position from which to lift a hand and give a 
friendly wave. This is of course simply the physical manifestation of the 
bicycle designer's philosophy toward riding a bicycle. And those who ride 
this type of design, if they haven't adopted this philosophy already, soon 
appreciate its many charms and advantages--coming full cycle then, a case 
of form follows function. (Or they sell the bicycle.) Note that, as an 
ex-competitive cyclist, when time permits I still enjoy the occasional 
ramble on one of my drop bar bicycles. And not that, hands on the 
Clementine's Bullmoose crossbar, I can't crank up to Main Street automobile 
speeds. And not that I won't compare me some Compass Switchbacks vs. the 
stock Kendas in the near future...life is so nuanced!


On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 6:50:29 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I don't think anybody said 1-2 cm below the saddle was really low.  I 
> called 10cm really low.  I also said the lowest you can easily get on any 
> stock Rivendell would probably be about 4 or 5 cm below with a Roadeo. 
>  Patrick Moore gets that low on his customs also.  I think 4-5cm below is 
> still perfectly normal for Rivendells.  Lungimsam observed that nobody can 
> get a Roadeo fit on a sub $2000 frameset, and that's true.  All the sub 
> $2000 frames are more upright than the Roadeo/Hilsen/Atlantis.  He said he 
> was just making an observation, and it's a correct observation.  Maybe the 
> next step in his thought process will be "there should be a budget 
> Rivendell that fits like a Roadeo".  I know there are a lot of potential 
> Rivendell customers who love the Rivendell vibe, are not going to buy a 
> $4000 complete bike, but still want a "road bike", not a "cruiser".  There 
> are a lot of people that would love to buy an inflation-adjusted Romulus. 
>  That was a $1500 complete bike road bike.  Nothing dumb, but not 
> sit-up-and-beg like the Appaloosa.  The 2016 version of that bike could be 
> a great add, if Rivendell had the cashflow to do it.  I can't wait to sit 
> up and beg on my Appaloosa, and would rather eat glass than put drop bars 
> on it.  I've got drop bar bikes coming out my ears, but for those who 
> don't, a budget Rivendell Road Bike might have a lot of appeal. 
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA 
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 at 3:09:07 PM UTC-8, RJM wrote:
>>
>> I really don't see 1-2 cm below saddle height as low, certainly not 
>> really low. 
>>
>> The one thing Rivs are, they are usually versatile and can be set up many 
>> different ways. When I had my Sam I had it with drops that started two 
>> inches above saddle height and that eventually went down to 1 cm below the 
>> saddle. I just naturally felt more comfy there...then I switched it 
>> albatross and of course the bars were higher then. The bike worked great 
>> with each setup too.  My Roadeo is going similar to the Sam where I started 
>> a little above saddle height but now I have mark's bars an inch below. Rivs 
>> can certainly be ridden with bars that are lower than saddle height. This 
>> is why quill stems are awesome too.
>>
>> The Joe really seems like a more laid back upright bike though. The long 
>> wheelbase and top tube length kinda point it in that direction. Drop bars 
>> would certainly work for those who don't mind actually riding in the drops. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Any Rivsters in the Vail Valley area?

2016-01-05 Thread Chad
I recently became a part time resident of Edwards, CO.

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