[RBW] Re: FS: Ibex, Carradice

[Anton Tutter]

Ibex and Carradice have been claimed!

Anton

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[RBW] FS: Ibex, Carradice

[Anton Tutter]

Some more items for sale. Prices include shipping CONUS, Paypal F/F only.


   - Ibex Indie Boulder Zip T in pewter heather. 100% merino.  Size M. Only 
   worn a couple of times. Perfect. Cost $60 new. $45.
   - Vintage Carradice Junior saddlebag (not sure of vintage... 80s? 90s?). 
   In good vintage shape. $50.
   
Contact off-list. 

Anton















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Re: [RBW] The next Velo Lumino product: rear fender reinforcement plate

[Anton Tutter]

Jay,

Your hand-filed reinforcement plates came out really nice!

Anton
velolumino.com

On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:53:12 PM UTC-4, Jay wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> I created a custom reinforcement plate for my daughters Jack Taylor using 
> a stock 1" aluminum strap that can be found at most local hardware stores. 
> You simply trace out the shape you want, cut with a hacksaw or scroll saw, 
> then file and and polish. I used a round file to give it a little camber on 
> the bottom and allow it to sit evenly on the fender, and a flat file to 
> taper the edges and overall thin it out. Various grits of sand paper and 
> Simichrome brought it to a mirror shine.
>
> I wanted one a little longer/narrower than those available at the time, 
> I'm happy with how it turned out. 
> Takes a little time but well worth the effort.
>
> A few images for reference:
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/wnbvaaqck7fw1u5/2017-03-22%2011.56.48.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwvg3m071u3j31m/2017-03-22%2011.55.29.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/r7esxwncvzrxy2l/2017-03-22%2011.55.09.jpg?dl=0
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/111412591633365066438/album/6270196811045780369?authkey=CJXtxJeHp63RyQE
>
> As a side note Anton does great work and I'm sure the plates he's created 
> are top-notch. He modernized the lights on the little Jack, and they work 
> fantastic!
>
> Jay Fichialos
> Pleasant Grove, Utah, USA
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 10:57 AM, George Schick <bhi...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> Eric - looking at the photo I can see why you don't want the extra 
>> holes.  But how do you keep it from shifting or turning sideways a bit from 
>> vibration, etc. without the bolts?  Contact cement?  Or is the 
>> diamond-shaped plate beveled in such a way that it conforms to the 
>> curvature of the fender, which keeps it in place?  If the latter, how would 
>> you create something like that?  Seems like you'd need a die or something 
>> to shape it.
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 10:24:02 AM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>
>>> The advantage is purely aesthetic-trying to replicate the original 
>>> Singer part. I'll look into getting a piece of an old fender somewhere.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> --Eric N
>>> www.CampyOnly.com
>>> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
>>> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>>
>>> On Mar 22, 2017, at 8:00 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Eric,
>>>
>>> I order all my stock pre-cut and drilled and then polished. I'd have to 
>>> do a special run of a single-hole version, and I have to order quite a few 
>>> to make them cost-effective.
>>>
>>> Aside from aesthetics, what is the practical advantage, if any, to 
>>> having as single hole? I would think it would act less as a strain relief 
>>> in this way. It would still "cradle" the fender, but I would imagine its 
>>> overall net benefit is less.
>>>
>>> If you're good with tin-snips and have a spare fender you can use as a 
>>> donor, you could cut a few out and polish them.
>>>
>>> Anton
>>> velolumino.com
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 at 12:22:13 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Anton:
>>>>
>>>> I wonder if you can make one of these for me with just the center hole, 
>>>> to match the reinforcement on my Singer:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --Eric Norris
>>>> campyo...@me.com
>>>> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 19, 2016, at 7:19 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Velo Lumino is expanding into the "fender installation widget" space. 
>>>> The first of several widgets in this category is a reinforcement plate 
>>>> inspired by the old French constructeurs. It reduces fender stress fatigue 
>>>> at a common failure location by reducing localized stress risers. And it 
>>>> looks damn fine while doing it. Photo below is on a VO Zeppelin 650B 
>>>> fender. The plate is thin enough (0.64mm) that is doesn't noticeably alter 
>>>> the fender line of existing fender installations, and its shape can be 
>>>> tweaked by hand to follow different fender contours.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-La6n04tU9PY/Vu1dZcSRDUI/CYw/wtnHBdjvJtUzT73k-6V4Jn5Kk4Yi7kVyw/s1600/IMG_0639.jpg>
>>>>
>>>

[RBW] Re: The next Velo Lumino product: rear fender reinforcement plate

[Anton Tutter]

The center hole is for the bridge mount. Most bridges on bikes specifically 
designed for fenders will have a threaded boss on the bottom of the bridge, 
oriented toward the axle. For bridges with a brake bolt, you can still 
mount a fender using a 90 degree bracket bolted to the brake bolt.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 3:54:19 PM UTC-4, Mike K. wrote:
>
> Anton,
> What is the purpose of the center hole? The outside holes, I assume, 
> attach to the fender. Are there attachments beneath brake bridges for 
> fender mounting? If so, I probably could have saved myself some trouble 
> over the years.
>
> Follow-up question, do these only work with center-pull/canti brakes? My 
> Ram is sidepull and I could see this being handy but not feasible due to 
> the distance between the brake bridge and the fender. But maybe it's not as 
> far apart as I think it is...
>
>

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Re: [RBW] The next Velo Lumino product: rear fender reinforcement plate

[Anton Tutter]

Hi Eric,

I order all my stock pre-cut and drilled and then polished. I'd have to do 
a special run of a single-hole version, and I have to order quite a few to 
make them cost-effective.

Aside from aesthetics, what is the practical advantage, if any, to having 
as single hole? I would think it would act less as a strain relief in this 
way. It would still "cradle" the fender, but I would imagine its overall 
net benefit is less.

If you're good with tin-snips and have a spare fender you can use as a 
donor, you could cut a few out and polish them.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Tuesday, March 21, 2017 at 12:22:13 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Anton:
>
> I wonder if you can make one of these for me with just the center hole, to 
> match the reinforcement on my Singer:
>
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 7:19 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
> Velo Lumino is expanding into the "fender installation widget" space. The 
> first of several widgets in this category is a reinforcement plate inspired 
> by the old French constructeurs. It reduces fender stress fatigue at a 
> common failure location by reducing localized stress risers. And it looks 
> damn fine while doing it. Photo below is on a VO Zeppelin 650B fender. The 
> plate is thin enough (0.64mm) that is doesn't noticeably alter the fender 
> line of existing fender installations, and its shape can be tweaked by hand 
> to follow different fender contours.
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-La6n04tU9PY/Vu1dZcSRDUI/CYw/wtnHBdjvJtUzT73k-6V4Jn5Kk4Yi7kVyw/s1600/IMG_0639.jpg>
>
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ksl6ImcB3Hk/Vu1ddY3cLHI/CY0/rmOYxvFRkag4kTlx9uw3JB-Pc_nXJiG9g/s1600/IMG_0637.jpg>
>
>
> It's cut from aluminum sheet stock using water jet technology. It's then 
> pressed onto a curved form to create a nominal fender cross-section radius 
> and finally it's machine polished to a mirror finish. Two flat-head 
> stainless M3 bolts with flat washers, star washers, nuts and a leather 
> washer for the bridge are included in the price.
>
>
> $17 on velolumino.com 
> <http://www.velolumino.com/at-fender-reinforcement-plate.html>
>
> Anton, who is working on yet more fender installation widgets...
>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wool cycling gear for sale

[Anton Tutter]

Everything has been claimed except:

>
>- Kucharik short sleeve, half-zip jersey, rear pockets. Green. Medium 
>weight. Several small moth holes on back clustered in two areas. Plenty of 
>life left. See photos. $25
>
>

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[RBW] Wool cycling gear for sale

[Anton Tutter]

I'm cleaning out my cycling stash and offering the following wool items 
(and one synthetic item). All are size M. and fit my 6ft/160lb frame well. 
All prices include shipping CONUS. $5 discount for two ore more items.


   - Smartwool short sleeve, half-zip jersery, rear pockets with button 
   closure. Red/burgundy. Medium weight. Excellent condition. One small 
   professional darning repair on back side, you can sort of make it out on 
   the photo of the back. $30
   - Kucharik short sleeve, half-zip jersey, rear pockets. Green. Medium 
   weight. Several small moth holes on back clustered in two areas. Plenty of 
   life left. See photos. $25
   - Kucharik padded shorts. Black. Rear pocket. Some chafing holes on one 
   thigh. Plenty of life left. See photos. $20
   - Pearl Izumi padded synthetic shorts. Very little wear. $15
   

Photo set 
here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/7516215@N03/albums/72157677959757464

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[RBW] Re: Major spring clean out - lots of things for sale

[Anton Tutter]

Here's what's left. Make a reasonable offer.

>
- Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, NEW in box, $24
- Nashbar clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, aesthetically rough but 
spin smooth, $8
- Shimano PD-M505 mtn pedals, aesthetically rough, but spin 
smoothly, $5
- SR road pedals, English threaded, $8
- Christophe toe clips, unknown size but measure about 55mm clamp 
to front, $8
- SRAM S500 ergo-style brake levers (non-shifting), black, NEW, 
best internet price $57, my price $45
- SRAM Rival front derailleur, clamp-on, 10-speed, NEW, $17
- Unknown brand 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, 
smooth, complete, $7
- Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket #1046/A, 1.37x24TPI, nice 
vintage condition, complete, $40
- Park Tool CM-5 Cyclone chain cleaner with spare sponge, used a 
few times but cleaned each time, $10
- Small military bag for pannier conversion project that never 
happened, NEW, shoulder strap cut off, $9
- Mirrcycle road mirror for pre-2010 Shimano STI brake/shifters, 
NEW, $5
- KMC 1/8" Singlespeed chain, Z410, brown, NEW, $4
- Selle San Marco bar tape, white w/black branding, NEW in 
packaging, $3
- Specialized kids’ cycling gloves, fits age 5-7, barely used, $4
- Shimano baseball cap, NEW, $4



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[RBW] Re: Major spring clean out - lots of things for sale

[Anton Tutter]

And another update:

>
>
>
>>> Pedals, shoes, clips:
>>>
>>>- Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, NEW in box, $24
>>>- Crank Brothers Smarty mtb pedals, NEW, with platform attachments 
>>>and cleat kit, $24 PENDING
>>>- Nashbar clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, aesthetically rough but 
>>>spin smooth, $8
>>>- Shimano PD-M505 mtn pedals, aesthetically rough, but spin 
>>>smoothly, $5
>>>- ATOM rat trap pedals, chromed steel cages on alloy bodies, French 
>>>threaded, $8 SOLD
>>>- KKT Pro Vic II road pedals, French threaded, $8 SOLD
>>>- SR road pedals, English threaded, $8
>>>- Lake road shoes, size US 46 wide, leather, with Dial in Lacing 
>>>system, very little use, $25 SOLD
>>>- Christophe toe clips, unknown size but measure about 55mm clamp to 
>>>front, $8
>>>
>>>
>>> Brake levers, brake pads:
>>>
>>>- SRAM S500 ergo-style brake levers (non-shifting), black, NEW, best 
>>>internet price $57, my price $45
>>>- Vintage French (brand unknown) alloy city bike brake levers, NOS 
>>>with shop wear, great for that vintage Frenchie porteur build, $25 SOLD
>>>- Shimano SLR MTB brake levers, BL-MT63, 22.2mm, $7 SOLD
>>>- Velo Orange cantilever brake pad refills, BR-0030, NEW in 
>>>packaging, $3 SOLD
>>>
>>>
>>> Headsets:
>>>
>>>- Hatta 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, smooth, 
>>>complete, $8 SOLD
>>>- Unknown brand 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, 
>>>smooth, complete, $7
>>>
>>>
>>> Bells, ding-ding:
>>>
>>>- China Bell, rotating, chromed steel (and heavy), NEW, $4 SOLD
>>>- Electra brass bell, NEW, $5
>>>
>>>
>>> Everything else:
>>>
>>>- Gran Compe Ene front rack, mounts to Dia Compe and Weinmann 
>>>centerpull brake, NEW in bag, $25 SOLD
>>>- SRAM Rival front derailleur, clamp-on, 10-speed, NEW, $17
>>>- Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket #1046/A, 1.37x24TPI, nice 
>>>vintage condition, complete, $40
>>>- Huret downtube shifter set (not Jubilee,), complete, nice vintage 
>>>condition, $10 SOLD
>>>- Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record shifter covers, red, NOS, $10 SOLD
>>>- Suntour unknown model 110BCD cranks, 170mm, $10 SOLD
>>>- ATOM quick-release skewer pair, nice chrome condition with some 
>>>minor scuffing, 110/120mm spacing, for that Frenchie build, $15 PENDING
>>>- Park Tool CM-5 Cyclone chain cleaner with spare sponge, used a few 
>>>times but cleaned each time, $10
>>>- Small military bag for pannier conversion project that never 
>>>happened, NEW, shoulder strap cut off, $9
>>>- Mirrcycle road mirror for pre-2010 Shimano STI brake/shifters, 
>>>NEW, $5
>>>- KMC 1/8" Singlespeed chain, Z410, brown, NEW, $4
>>>- Selle San Marco bar tape, white w/black branding, NEW in 
>>>packaging, $3
>>>- Specialized kids’ cycling gloves, fits age 5-7, barely used, $4
>>>- Shimano baseball cap, NEW, $4
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Major spring clean out - lots of things for sale

[Anton Tutter]

More revisions. 


>> Pedals, shoes, clips:
>>
>>- Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, NEW in box, $24
>>- Crank Brothers Smarty mtb pedals, NEW, with platform attachments 
>>and cleat kit, $24 PENDING
>>- Nashbar clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, aesthetically rough but 
>>spin smooth, $8
>>- Shimano PD-M505 mtn pedals, aesthetically rough, but spin smoothly, 
>>$5
>>- ATOM rat trap pedals, chromed steel cages on alloy bodies, French 
>>threaded, $8 SOLD
>>- KKT Pro Vic II road pedals, French threaded, $8 SOLD
>>- SR road pedals, English threaded, $8
>>- Lake road shoes, size US 46 wide, leather, with Dial in Lacing 
>>system, very little use, $25 SOLD
>>- Christophe toe clips, unknown size but measure about 55mm clamp to 
>>front, $8
>>
>>
>> Brake levers, brake pads:
>>
>>- SRAM S500 ergo-style brake levers (non-shifting), black, NEW, best 
>>internet price $57, my price $45
>>- Vintage French (brand unknown) alloy city bike brake levers, NOS 
>>with shop wear, great for that vintage Frenchie porteur build, $25
>>- Shimano SLR MTB brake levers, BL-MT63, 22.2mm, $7 SOLD
>>- Velo Orange cantilever brake pad refills, BR-0030, NEW in 
>>packaging, $3
>>
>>
>> Headsets:
>>
>>- Hatta 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, smooth, 
>>complete, $8 SOLD
>>- Unknown brand 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, 
>>smooth, complete, $7
>>
>>
>> Bells, ding-ding:
>>
>>- China Bell, rotating, chromed steel (and heavy), NEW, $4 SOLD
>>- Electra brass bell, NEW, $5
>>
>>
>> Everything else:
>>
>>- Gran Compe Ene front rack, mounts to Dia Compe and Weinmann 
>>centerpull brake, NEW in bag, $25 SOLD
>>- SRAM Rival front derailleur, clamp-on, 10-speed, NEW, $17
>>- Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket #1046/A, 1.37x24TPI, nice 
>>vintage condition, complete, $40
>>- Huret downtube shifter set (not Jubilee,), complete, nice vintage 
>>condition, $10 SOLD
>>- Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record shifter covers, red, NOS, $10
>>- Suntour unknown model 110BCD cranks, 170mm, $10 SOLD
>>- ATOM quick-release skewer pair, nice chrome condition with some 
>>minor scuffing, 110/120mm spacing, for that Frenchie build, $15 PENDING
>>- Park Tool CM-5 Cyclone chain cleaner with spare sponge, used a few 
>>times but cleaned each time, $10
>>- Small military bag for pannier conversion project that never 
>>happened, NEW, shoulder strap cut off, $9
>>- Mirrcycle road mirror for pre-2010 Shimano STI brake/shifters, NEW, 
>>$5
>>- KMC 1/8" Singlespeed chain, Z410, brown, NEW, $4
>>- Selle San Marco bar tape, white w/black branding, NEW in packaging, 
>>$3
>>- Specialized kids’ cycling gloves, fits age 5-7, barely used, $4
>>- Shimano baseball cap, NEW, $4
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Major spring clean out - lots of things for sale

[Anton Tutter]

Here's an updated list of available items. Items with "pending" mean a sale 
has been agreed on but still waiting on payment.
 

>
>> Pedals, shoes, clips:
>>
>>- Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, NEW in box, $24
>>- Crank Brothers Smarty mtb pedals, NEW, with platform attachments 
>>and cleat kit, $24 PENDING
>>- Nashbar clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, aesthetically rough but 
>>spin smooth, $8
>>- Shimano PD-M505 mtn pedals, aesthetically rough, but spin smoothly, 
>>$5
>>- ATOM rat trap pedals, chromed steel cages on alloy bodies, French 
>>threaded, $8 SOLD
>>- KKT Pro Vic II road pedals, French threaded, $8 SOLD
>>- SR road pedals, English threaded, $8
>>- Lake road shoes, size US 46 wide, leather, with Dial in Lacing 
>>system, very little use, $25
>>- Christophe toe clips, unknown size but measure about 55mm clamp to 
>>front, $8
>>
>>
>> Brake levers, brake pads:
>>
>>- SRAM S500 ergo-style brake levers (non-shifting), black, NEW, best 
>>internet price $57, my price $45
>>- Vintage French (brand unknown) alloy city bike brake levers, NOS 
>>with shop wear, great for that vintage Frenchie porteur build, $25
>>- Shimano SLR MTB brake levers, BL-MT63, 22.2mm, $7 SOLD
>>- Velo Orange cantilever brake pad refills, BR-0030, NEW in 
>>packaging, $3
>>
>>
>> Headsets:
>>
>>- Hatta 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, smooth, 
>>complete, $8 SOLD
>>- Unknown brand 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, 
>>smooth, complete, $7
>>
>>
>> Bells, ding-ding:
>>
>>- China Bell, rotating, chromed steel (and heavy), NEW, $4 SOLD
>>- Electra brass bell, NEW, $5
>>
>>
>> Everything else:
>>
>>- Gran Compe Ene front rack, mounts to Dia Compe and Weinmann 
>>centerpull brake, NEW in bag, $25 SOLD
>>- SRAM Rival front derailleur, clamp-on, 10-speed, NEW, $17
>>- Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket #1046/A, 1.37x24TPI, nice 
>>vintage condition, complete, $40
>>- Huret downtube shifter set (not Jubilee,), complete, nice vintage 
>>condition, $10
>>- Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record shifter covers, red, NOS, $10
>>- Suntour unknown model 110BCD cranks, 170mm, $10 SOLD
>>- ATOM quick-release skewer pair, nice chrome condition with some 
>>minor scuffing, 110/120mm spacing, for that Frenchie build, $15 PENDING
>>- Park Tool CM-5 Cyclone chain cleaner with spare sponge, used a few 
>>times but cleaned each time, $10
>>- Small military bag for pannier conversion project that never 
>>happened, NEW, shoulder strap cut off, $9
>>- Mirrcycle road mirror for pre-2010 Shimano STI brake/shifters, NEW, 
>>$5
>>- KMC 1/8" Singlespeed chain, Z410, brown, NEW, $4
>>- Selle San Marco bar tape, white w/black branding, NEW in packaging, 
>>$3
>>- Specialized kids’ cycling gloves, fits age 5-7, barely used, $4
>>- Shimano baseball cap, NEW, $4
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Major spring clean out - lots of things for sale

[Anton Tutter]

Went through my parts bins for a major purge. Prices do not include 
shipping. I will try to ship as inexpensively as possible, and of course, 
the more items you buy the more you'll combine on shipping.

Photos of everything here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7516215@N03/albums/72157677963609333

Pedals, shoes, clips:

   - Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, NEW in box, $24
   - Crank Brothers Smarty mtb pedals, NEW, with platform attachments and 
   cleat kit, $24
   - Nashbar clipless road pedals, LOOK-type, aesthetically rough but spin 
   smooth, $8
   - Shimano PD-M505 mtn pedals, aesthetically rough, but spin smoothly, $5
   - ATOM rat trap pedals, chromed steel cages on alloy bodies, French 
   threaded, $8
   - KKT Pro Vic II road pedals, French threaded, $8
   - SR road pedals, English threaded, $8
   - Lake road shoes, size US 46 wide, leather, with Dial in Lacing system, 
   very little use, $25
   - Christophe toe clips, unknown size but measure about 55mm clamp to 
   front, $8
   

Brake levers, brake pads:

   - SRAM S500 ergo-style brake levers (non-shifting), black, NEW, best 
   internet price $57, my price $45
   - Vintage French (brand unknown) alloy city bike brake levers, NOS with 
   shop wear, great for that vintage Frenchie porteur build, $25
   - Shimano SLR MTB brake levers, BL-MT63, 22.2mm, $7
   - Velo Orange cantilever brake pad refills, BR-0030, NEW in packaging, $3
   

Headsets:

   - Hatta 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, smooth, 
   complete, $8
   - Unknown brand 1” threaded headset, chromed steel, caged bearings, 
   smooth, complete, $7
   

Bells, ding-ding:

   - China Bell, rotating, chromed steel (and heavy), NEW, $4
   - Electra brass bell, NEW, $5
   

Everything else:

   - Gran Compe Ene front rack, mounts to Dia Compe and Weinmann centerpull 
   brake, NEW in bag, $25
   - SRAM Rival front derailleur, clamp-on, 10-speed, NEW, $17
   - Campagnolo Nuovo Record bottom bracket #1046/A, 1.37x24TPI, nice 
   vintage condition, complete, $40
   - Huret downtube shifter set (not Jubilee,), complete, nice vintage 
   condition, $10
   - Campagnolo Nuovo/Super Record shifter covers, red, NOS, $10
   - Suntour unknown model 110BCD cranks, 170mm, $10
   - ATOM quick-release skewer pair, nice chrome condition with some minor 
   scuffing, 110/120mm spacing, for that Frenchie build, $15
   - Park Tool CM-5 Cyclone chain cleaner with spare sponge, used a few 
   times but cleaned each time, $10
   - Small military bag for pannier conversion project that never happened, 
   NEW, shoulder strap cut off, $9
   - Mirrcycle road mirror for pre-2010 Shimano STI brake/shifters, NEW, $5
   - KMC 1/8" Singlespeed chain, Z410, brown, NEW, $4
   - Selle San Marco bar tape, white w/black branding, NEW in packaging, $3
   - Specialized kids’ cycling gloves, fits age 5-7, barely used, $4
   - Shimano baseball cap, NEW, $4
   


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[RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Anton Tutter]

My 2013 Rawland with fat 650B wheels often gets mistaken as an "old 
fashioned" bike. One person once called it a "nice antique bike".

Anton
velolumino.com


On Tuesday, February 28, 2017 at 12:12:14 PM UTC-5, Christopher Cote wrote:
>
> Regarding the original topic, I recently had someone compliment my newest 
> bike, and Ocean Air Rambler as a "nice old bike". I was initially offended, 
> but then I realized that the cranks are from 1984, derailleurs from the 
> 90's, etc. So I suppose it is old, in part.
>
> My senior project in engineering school was to design and build an 
> electronic derailleur drivetrain. I was the EE on the project, working with 
> an ME student. Even then as a budding RetroGrouch (I don't think the term 
> had been coined yet), I knew it was an interesting engineering problem, but 
> not something I'd ever want. I could not believe that a cyclist would 
> tolerate having to change or charge batteries, so we designed an alternator 
> into the lower rear derailleur pulley that charged the battery. The biggest 
> advantage of the system that I could see at the time was that it would work 
> with any number of cogs, and any cog spacing
>
> Chris "creating solutions to problems that don't exist"
>
>
> On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 9:36:50 AM UTC-5, Addison wrote:
>>
>> I've had people assume my Riv is an "old" bike for a long time now but 
>> yesterday when I was riding home I stopped to take a photo of the rushing 
>> Truckee River in Reno and a gent paused to compliment me on my "beautiful 
>> old bike."  I just said thanks and didn't correct him.  And then it 
>> occurred to me that I shouldn't correct him because my Allrounder is going 
>> on 18 years of age.  Many miles but it looks sharp...I've taken care of it 
>> through commutes and offroading and tours.  Anyway, just ruminating...and 
>> posting a couple pics.  Happy Monday!
>>
>> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2017/02/when-is-bike-old.html
>>
>> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>>
>> Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology 
>>  
>>
>> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>>
>> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>>
>> Blogger: Reno Rambler  
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: New take-off group and wheelset ideal backpacking build

[Anton Tutter]

The thing is, Anne's group wasn't even a matched "group" in the popular 
sense of the term, but more of a complete set of original spec components 
designed to do a job. For the price, it was a bargain, given it was 
essentially new. I don't see any reason not consider a complete "group" if 
there is a need and it makes economic sense. And as far as complete 
"groups" in the common understanding of the term go, (e.g., Dura Ace, XTR), 
if the right group at the right price came around, I'd be all over it. Does 
that put me in a certain "group" of cyclists? So be it...

Anton
velolumino.com



On Saturday, February 18, 2017 at 5:59:42 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> The trick is, Anne, that as a group we don't generally think (or build) in 
> groups, as many groups of cyclists do. Grin. All part of the Rivendell 
> mystique. 
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Saturday, February 18, 2017 at 3:52:23 PM UTC-7, Anne wrote:
>>
>> Andrew,
>> Hoping to sell it as a group but willing to consider separating if enough 
>> parts can get committed.
>> Thanks.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: NIB SP PV-8 dynamo hub, 36H, red: $95 shipped

[Anton Tutter]

I'm offering a NIB SP PV-8 dynamo hub for $95 shipped CONUS-- 30% off the 
retail price of $130. This unit was shipped to a customer but was the wrong 
model, so it got returned to me after he received the correct one. I don't 
normally keep stock so I'd rather offer it to the list than pay to return 
it to my Taiwanese distributor.

Contact me off-list if interested.



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[RBW] Velo Lumino stock update - polished taillights and headlight mounts are back in stock!

[Anton Tutter]

I thought I'd update folks on Velo Lumino stock. I had been out of polished 
taillights and headlight mounts for some time, and I was very surprised to 
receive so many inquiries into when I'd have more stock of the headlight 
mount specifically. I'm happy to announce I have more of both of these in 
stock! As of today, Velo Lumino has stock of all our components and widgets.

Thanks for all your support!

Anton
velolumino.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: dynamo light decisions: Lumotec or Edelux?

[Anton Tutter]

Forgot to mention, these aren't on my website yet, either, but I'll be 
selling these very shortly. This is what you will get. The male halves do 
require soldering, they are not crimpable.



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Re: [RBW] Re: dynamo light decisions: Lumotec or Edelux?

[Anton Tutter]

Peter,

Is the plug completely waterproof? From your photos, it appears the female 
portion is facing up, and vulnerable to water pooling inside.

I do like the compact appearance of the coaxial connector, but until it's 
proven, I prefer using my spade-to-banana plug adapter. The plugs are gold 
plated, and the female half is oriented downward, so no water pools. I 
haven't had a single report of a banana plug failure in two years of using 
them.


 

Anton
velolumino.com


On Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 2:48:38 PM UTC-5, Peter White wrote:
>
> Not on the website yet.
>
> Here's a couple of pictures. One shows the connectors connected, the 
> other, disconnected. The bike is my Rambouillet. Dynamo hub is a SONdelux 
> Wide Body.
>
> We have the connectors individually so you can solder them onto co-axial 
> wiring wherever you like. We also can add them to the wiring on your 
> headlight. And we are stocking the Edelux II with these connectors already 
> installed.
>
> On Sat, Jan 28, 2017 at 12:13 AM, 'Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> Peter, could you direct me to the co-axial connectors on your website? I 
>> can't seem to find them.
>>
>> Joe in GJT
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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[RBW] Re: Online store for front light mount options

[Anton Tutter]

For anyone who has a German headlight (Edelux, Supernova, B, etc) that 
uses a standard 10mm wide base with an M6 mounting bolt, I sell my 
headlight mount for metal fenders:

I will have more stock this week.

http://www.velolumino.com/at-headlight-mount.html

Anton
velolumino.com

On Sunday, January 29, 2017 at 6:22:51 AM UTC-5, Daniel Betancourt wrote:
>
> I normally bike during the work week in the dark early morning hours and 
> have been looking for a way to mount my LED light to my front rack or fork. 
> I found the following online store and ordered the two parts below to try 
> out. I'll make sure to post an update once they arrive.
>
> https://www.modernbike.com/light-mounts-and-brackets
>
> Problem Solvers Front Rack Light Mount Black
> Problem Solvers Quick Release Light Mount
>
> Dan
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Building up a SON28 Dyno wheel and need help!

[Anton Tutter]

I've used EDD  a handful of times, hasn't failed 
me yet.  If your hub and rim aren't in the database, you can enter the data 
manually.

Anton


On Tuesday, January 24, 2017 at 6:05:15 PM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm asking my shop to build up a SON28 dyno wheel. It's the standard 
> 36-hole SON28 hub, and I want to use a 700C Atlas rim. What spokes should I 
> order, and how long should they be? 
>
> Thanks, Bunch!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What are you hauling?

[Anton Tutter]

My very first haul on my brand new Bike Friday Haul-a-day from a couple 
years ago:




Towing a 55lb Raleigh DL1 to a swap-meet 12 miles away:






"Life" on a Jeunet 700c porteur conversion:





Towing everything seen here on a kid trailer:





PVC pipe found on the curb:






Anton




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[RBW] Re: Brass Bells

[Anton Tutter]

Eh, I kind of like the dulled look of patinated brass.

--Anton


On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 12:22:24 PM UTC-5, George Schick wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the replies.  I did a bit of snooping around on the Web 
> myself and came across a product made by Everbrite called ProtectaClear 
> that looks to be exactly what y'all described only with a higher silicon 
> oxide content just as Bill says.  What's kinda interesting is that I have 2 
> or 3 of these bells on different bikes and only this one seems to be 
> unprotected; the others definitely have been coated with a sealer.  Begs 
> the question, why would they offer a brass product like these bells that is 
> obviously going to get exposed to all kinds of variable environmental 
> conditions without sealing it?
>
> BTW, Bill, I thought about possible "beausage" repercussions before I 
> posted this issue, but as you say, I felt it was beyond regular wear and 
> tear and belonged in the unkempt category.  Others may have different 
> views...
>
>
> On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 12:47:26 AM UTC-6, Bill in Roswell GA wrote:
>>
>> I would think any type of modern auto paint protector sealant such as 
>> made by 3M, Meguiars, Mothers, Turtlewax, Liquid Glass, etc., would work. 
>> And you can use it on your bike frame as well as the car. There are boat 
>> versions marketed but it's really all the same stuff. Such sealants 
>> typically last 8-12 months, whereas old school carnuba wax last about 3 
>> months. 
>>
>> The nice thing about modern sealants is you can just spray it on, let it 
>> dry and wipe off any excess "haze" that may be left after it dries. 
>> Silicone dioxide is the ingredient used in such products. It protects hard 
>> surfaces, whether paint, chrome or brushed metal finish, raw or anodized. 
>> The more expensive sealants have more SiO2 per ounce than the cheaper ones 
>> and thus last longer. Treat your bell every few months and it should keep a 
>> nice appearance. And while you're at it, just do the whole bike. Sealant is 
>> particularly awesome on wheels to help protect from road grime (I rub it on 
>> with cloth to keep it off of the brake track and then hit up the track with 
>> a stone or 3M pad just to be sure it's clean).
>>
>> I have 3 relatives who enter their cars in concours events and that's the 
>> stuff they use (weekend driver cars, not garage queens). It works great on 
>> my bike's OEM paint (none are powder coated but SiO2 works great on that, 
>> too) and my boat's gel coat. 
>>
>> Hopefully that helps and doesn't cause any controversy like chain lube 
>> does! 
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Bill in Roswell, GA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Off topic question: portable cd players

[Anton Tutter]

CD? What's a CD?

Anton


On Sunday, January 15, 2017 at 5:13:58 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I want a cheap and simple and very small device to plug into my Harman 
> Kardon amplifier/speakers to play Bach and Grateful Dead, but not at the 
> same time. I need it to do nothing except that it play standard music CDs 
> reliably while sitting on top of my cabinet next to the speakers; I don't 
> need bass booster or skip protection. Can anyone recommend something like 
> this?
>
> What about this one? At least, it has a good Fakespot rating.
>
> Thanks. Better reply offlist to bert...@gmail.com .
>
> Riv content: I have most of Dylan's albums ("Albums". There's a term from 
> the 78 rpm past!) but Jerry Garcia at his post psychedelic best ought to be 
> criterion enough.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VADPHY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYUtTuxf5LU=RD7AbF26nldtQ=4
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: battery powered taillight tinkering

[Anton Tutter]

Well done!!!

Anton
velolumino.com


On Friday, January 6, 2017 at 4:52:22 PM UTC-5, S. Greco wrote:
>
> I acquired a strange frame recently (650B Pedimoto Triple Triangle) which 
> had a braze-on for a taillight on the back of the seat tube. I didn't have 
> a dyno-hub wheel set for the bike, so I was on the hunt for a battery 
> powered one. To my knowledge, the only one available is from Boulder 
> Bicycle? I ordered one, but when it arrived I realized that it was threaded 
>  M6  frame was drilled and tapped for M5 - it seemed unwise to drill out 
> and re-tap the frame, so I gave it to a friend. He remarked that it was 
> funny that it matched the custom-made taillight on his Tournesol - slightly 
> different housing but same electronics and lens. Looking through the 
> paperwork that came with the Boulder Lamp it included instructions for the 
> re-housed innards which are . . . a Road ID Supernova.
>
> I'm wondering if anyone else has done this, or seen this lens on other 
> custom lights?
> The Road ID is great on its on - bright, lasts long, clips onto anything, 
> comes in a few colors if you're into that, and you can choose between 
> always-on and blinky by flipping the battery orientation. Oh, and it's only 
> 14.99 from your local amazon store : )
>
> To be clear, i'm not knocking anyone. I think its a pretty ingenious find 
> / starting point for a lamp project.
> Armed with this knowledge I simply bought the Road ID light, machined off 
> the clip and turned my own housing on a lathe.
>
> The Boulder Bicycle taillight:
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> The "RoadID Supernova" :
>
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> My new taillight : 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> If you have access to a lathe and some free time on your hands I highly 
> recommend this as a project. The whole thing only took about an hour and 
> would be even easier and faster if it were designed to bolt onto one of the 
> many hourglass shaped braze-ons which are plentiful on most Rivs these days.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> - Steve
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] IQ-X Headlight

[Anton Tutter]

Your IQ-X has a metal mounting bracket? I wonder if they changed the design 
from the first production units. Mine (an early one) has a one-piece split 
plastic mounting ring with plastic tabs. Can you take a picture of yours?

Anton
velolumino.com


On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 2:21:32 PM UTC-5, William deRosset wrote:
>
> The lens/reflector cover is plastic. If it is like the Cyo lenses, it will 
> survive winter fine. It will eventually get scratched and yellow from 
> environmental exposure. However, a headlight restoration kit from the auto 
> parts store will fix it right up, based on my experience with the Ixon and 
> Cyo reflector covers. In the case of the Cyo, the cover generally outlasted 
> the plastic mounting ear for the light. The IQ-X has a metal mounting 
> bracket, which solves the only substantive problem I had with the Cyo N. 
>
> My long-awaited Kelpie will use the IQ-X headlamp as part of the 
> integrated lighting system (along with a Sinewave/Velo-lumino switch and 
> power supply). 
>

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[RBW] Re: OT: Family Coffee/tea Pot

[Anton Tutter]

Not sure if you're looking just for a heating kettle or something more, but 
we have a deLonghi electric kettle 
.
 
It's made in China, but it's a high quality unit, all stainless (painted on 
the outside), and brings water to a boil very rapidly. We use it many times 
a day. It uses a well engineered dock which supplies the power, and the 
kettle lifts off of it. The bottom of the kettle never gets hot.

Anton


On Monday, December 26, 2016 at 10:59:53 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Our coffee/tea pot died. I am searching (in vein, so far) for
> — MUSA (doomed, it appears)
> — all 18/8 or 302 stainless steel (at least inside), non-negotiable
> — large capacity, for a family of 6, so ideally 3-4 liter capacity min. 
> (we currently heat our 1.7 liter pot 2 to 3 times in the morning)
> — Possibly recommendations for a similar smaller capacity pot would be 
> great.
>
> Toying with the idea of a Camp coffee percilator like this: 
> http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Campfire-Coffee-Pot/732378.uts 
> combined 
> with a smaller goose neck stovetop pot.
>
> Open to all ideas and suggestions. Thanks!
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: The American (aka MUSA) List

[Anton Tutter]

It's a nice list, but with some obvious omissions. Also, it's categorized 
alphabetically by manufacturer, not by type of item.

If you want a more definitive BIKE-specific MUSA list, there's this one 
compiled by Joe Cruz, author of the Pedaling in Place blog (and yes, Paul 
and White are on there):

https://joecruz.wordpress.com/usa-made-cycling-gear/

And the blog itself is excellent, with amazing photos of the author's 
underbiking / fat biking adventures around the world.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 7:12:27 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> and, no PAUL, and no White Industries.  Oh well...
>
> On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 4:11:16 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> It's unfortunate that neither Sackville nor Swift are on the list, as 
>> both are undeniably MUSA.  Sackville is more of a Riv brand, but Swift is a 
>> MUSA company.  
>>
>> On Monday, December 19, 2016 at 8:44:01 PM UTC-8, sameness wrote:
>>>
>>> Girl sent me this. It's a cool resource, oddly heavy on bikes and bike-y 
>>> stuff:
>>>
>>> http://www.acontinuouslean.com/the-american-list/
>>>
>>> I like buying American when I can. I think some of you do, too.*
>>>
>>> Happy All-The-Days,
>>>
>>> Jeff Hagedorn
>>> Los Angeles, CA USA
>>>
>>> *Kindly steer any disputes of provenance, learned discourse on global 
>>> economics, or political anything whatsoever to one of the seventy trillion 
>>> other threads on the internet, with my sincere thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Who makes Canvas Panniers now?

[Anton Tutter]

David Cain in Vermont (same state that brings us Ibex and Darn Tough Socks) 
creates beautiful functional canvas panniers through his one-man operation, 
Waxwing Bag Co. He's a randonneur and all around bikey person, and I'm 
dying to have him make me a bag sometime soon.

http://www.waxwingbagco.com/

Anton
velolumino.com


On Tuesday, December 20, 2016 at 1:42:17 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Who makes um and what is your experience with them, especially as it 
> relates to: 
> — ease of access 
> — weatherproof 
> — bikepacking and errand daily use heartiness 
> — other issues that stand out? 
>
> After years of use, with my TourSacks, I discovered just how much play 
> there is with the center load (sleeping bag, pad, tent, hatchet) anchored 
> to the fabric top rather than directly to the rack. (I tried my daughter’s 
> Back-a-Bike bags). But the Back-a-Bike bags do not look weatherproof enough 
> and the wooden chord closure thingy has already snagged on bits of brush 
> and that just on the MUPS. 
>
> Carsick looks to be out of the waxed canvas biz. Frost River’s new Highway 
> 61 look excellent and are my most likely choice. Interestingly, when I 
> talked it over with my daughters, they agree with Grant’s design, 
> preferring ease of access to full weatherproofing. They also don’t go 
> bashing through brush the same way I do. Grin. 
>
> Any others doing waxed canvas panniers out there and what’s your 
> experience with them? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[Anton Tutter]

I did say 'surprisingly'.


On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 10:21:58 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 12/08/2016 08:58 PM, Anton Tutter wrote: 
> > A lot of names in 650B revival weren't mentioned, but surprisingly 
> > Jeff Lyon's L'Avecaise custom, which few people outside of the Bicycle 
> > Quarterly universe know of, was mentioned. 
>
> RBR is definitely within the "Bicycle Quarterly universe" 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b article in RoadBikeRider newsletter

[Anton Tutter]

A lot of names in 650B revival weren't mentioned, but surprisingly Jeff 
Lyon's L'Avecaise custom, which few people outside of the Bicycle Quarterly 
universe know of, was mentioned.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 6:02:14 PM UTC-5, Les Lammers wrote:
>
> No mention of Riv?
>
> On Thursday, December 8, 2016 at 1:26:43 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>>
>>
>> https://www.roadbikerider.com/latest-rbr-newsletter-2016/258-issue-no-740/2536-a-new-wheel-tire-size-to-consider
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Q for fellow Blustery Bonzos...

[Anton Tutter]

Some of us have sensitive sinuses. Mine will ache for hours after breathing 
in cold air for as short a time as 1/2 hour. Having a balaclava with a 
covered mouth section is essential for me to ride in winter.

Anton
velolumino.com



On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 4:16:16 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I'm picky. I want unfiltered, unwarmed air. That's what my sinuses are 
> for. Grin. Plus, blech filter smell vs. crisp mountain air? Nah.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 1:42:34 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>>
>> What about the balaclavas that have that breather piece built into them 
>> over the mouth?
>>
>> Maybe a Canadian rando group or Canadian commuter page?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Making fenders fit at the bottom bracket area?

[Anton Tutter]

+1 to Steve's post. Just dimple the fenders using a form made from wood, 
and a dowel. I've done this on many bikes... got the idea from the fender 
installation article in BQ back in '09 or '10 written by Peter Weigle.

Anton
velolumino.com








On Monday, November 21, 2016 at 5:37:30 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> I heard one should not cut aluminium fenders, so:
>
> 1.how do I get my 650b Honjos to fit in between the cs at the bb?
>
> 2. Just squish them together til they fit like when changing the radius of 
> the fender?
>
> 3. Is it ok for them to touch the stays or will they rub a groove into 
> them?
>
> 4. How about steel Berthoud fenders? How to make them fit?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> I don't want SKS fenders. Just aluminum. Maybe Berthouds.
>

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[RBW] Re: XL frames and 650b experiences

[Anton Tutter]

My largest 650B conversion was my first and most ambitious one, although it 
isn't a large frame by your standards-- 63cm. The bike has seen several 
builds after conversion, and the one that just works most wonderfully is 
its current build as an around town porteur with flat VO Postino bars and a 
large front rack. It's been in this configuration for the last 2 1/2 years 
and it's probably only ever going to see minor tweaks here and there. It 
was a touring bike and tubing is 9/6/9 so it's on the stout side and 
doesn't have much flex (it didn't perform well configured in drop-bar 
rando-mode, partly because of the stiffness and also because the front end 
felt heavy). But riding around town with swept-back bars at saddle height 
and a slightly more upright riding position, it just glides very smoothly 
and feels well balanced. The 650B wheel size suits it very well. It's 
wearing old generation Hetres, one of which is now worn. Still a sublime 
smooth riding tire even though there are some better ones on the market now 
(e.g., Compass).



Here it is in its former rando setup from about four years ago:



Anton
velolumino.com


On Sunday, November 6, 2016 at 9:39:59 AM UTC-5, Abcyclehank wrote:
>
> Just completed my fleet by purchasing a Joe/Joe 68cm Riv Custom frameset. 
>  Considering a 650b build possibly due to severe overlap of ride options. 
>  Plan to reconfigure the 68cm Atlantis and 64cm Bombadil also. Will 
> constitute my winter projects here during an uncertain Michigan winter. 
>  Currently 60 degrees on Nov. 6th, loving the extended fall riding season. 
>  Not even thinking about hanging up the classics and dragging out the XXL 
> Moonlander yet.
>
> What specific experiences have fellow listers had with conversions?
>
> Ryan Hankinson
> West Michigan
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Velo Lumino summer vacation hiatus

[Anton Tutter]

Update: Velo Lumino is back! After a hiatus, an a few nice rides, VL is 
back and all items are in stock, ready for immediate shipping. Any orders 
that were placed while we were shipped out last week!

Anton
velolumino.com


On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 2:15:59 PM UTC-4, somervillebikes wrote:
>
> First I'd like to thank the online groups that I frequent (Bob, RBW, 650B, 
> etc) for their enthusiastic support of Velo Lumino over the past year that 
> we've been in operation. Velo Lumino is a small "craft" operation, 
> designing and fabricating components specifically for bicycle lighting and 
> lighting integration, as well as taking on custom lighting installations. 
> Velo Lumino consists of myself and Tom Matchak, also a member of these 
> lists. I operate all aspects of the web store, inventory and shipping.  As 
> such, when I take a vacation, Velo Lumino needs to take one too. Velo 
> Lumino will not be shipping orders between today and July 4th. Shipping 
> will resume July 5th. You can still place orders and contact us with 
> questions, but shipping will be held until the 5th. During that time, I 
> plan to get more riding in, because riding is what it's really all about, 
> right?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Anton
> velolumino.com
>
>

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[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Anton Tutter]

Berthoud doesn't make aluminum fenders, only stainless steel. So they're 
heavier.

Anton


On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 2:39:38 PM UTC-4, Andrew Patteson wrote:
>
> If I may ask:  then why not just get the Berthoud fenders instead?  Are 
> they inferior in some way?
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew in SLC
>
> On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 8:33:46 AM UTC-6, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>>  the Berthoud stays are superior for the reasons Brian mentioned. 
>> <http://velolumino.com>
>>
>> On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 8:34:14 AM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>>
>>> I say buy the VO fenders but use the money saved to buy the Berthoud  
>>> mounting stays from Ben's cycle. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Velo Lumino summer vacation hiatus

[Anton Tutter]

First I'd like to thank the online groups (Bob, RBW, 650B, etc) for their 
enthusiastic support of Velo Lumino over the past year that we've been in 
operation. Velo Lumino is a small "craft" operation, designing and 
fabricating components specifically for bicycle lighting and lighting 
integration, as well as taking on custom lighting installations. Velo 
Lumino consists of myself and Tom Matchak, also a member of these lists. I 
operate all aspects of the web store, inventory and shipping.  As such, 
when I take a vacation, Velo Lumino needs to take one too. Velo Lumino will 
not be shipping orders between today and July 4th. Shipping will resume 
July 5th. You can still place orders and contact us with questions, but 
shipping will be held until the 5th. During that time, I plan to get more 
riding in, because riding is what it's really all about, right?

Thanks!

Anton
velolumino.com

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[RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Anton Tutter]

Brian nailed it. VO fenders themselves are great, every bit as high quality 
as Honjos, but the Berthoud stays are superior for the reasons Brian 
mentioned. Just make sure you purchase stays in the size that's appropriate 
for the width of your fenders.

For what it's worth, the very expensive Honjo fenders on my Jeff Lyon 
L'Avecaise had some serious symmetry problems from the factory and required 
a lot of manipulation to install correctly. One issue was that they had 
twist, and the other is that the scalloped ends were not shaped 
symmetrically. The curvature of the scallop on the left side of the fender 
did not match that of the other side. But I've not experienced a defective 
VO fender thus far, and I've installed at least a dozen sets of them on my 
own and other peoples' bikes. 

One thing that I do appreciate on Honjo fenders is the rounded rolled edge, 
which allows you to easily snake a taillight wire. Most VO fenders have a 
crimped edge which can not fit a wire.

Anton
velolumino.com

On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 8:34:14 AM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> I say buy the VO fenders but use the money saved to buy the Berthoud  
> mounting stays from Ben's cycle. The weigh less (not much), have a lower 
> profile on the out side of the fender (less chance for toe overlap) and to 
> my eye look less obtrusive than VO or Honjo mounting hardware. The Honjo 
> fenders are nicer but not by some order of magnitude to justify close to 
> double the price.
>
> On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 10:35:40 PM UTC-4, Esteban wrote:
>>
>> Honjos. Totally worth it for the quality and to have something made in 
>> Japan. Skip several lunches out (bring a sandwich) and there's the 
>> difference. 
>>
>> Esteban
>> San Diego, Calif.
>>
>

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

Actually, 

The glue workaround is something I enthusiastically endorse *when* there is 
no better method available for a particular bike. If a bike were built for 
wiring, I would not endorse gluing the wires. The glue is the most elegant 
solution I can think of when there is no better way. 
There is no glue on my L'Avecaise, because it was designed for wires. But 
there is glue on my Rawland, because it wasn't designed for wires. If you 
extend my reasoning to Wald baskets, most often there is another way 
besides zip-ties to ensure a sturdy connection. If there weren't, I'd 
endorse zip ties.

Anton




On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 3:07:31 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> I'm a complicated guy, what can I say...
>
>
> On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 2:53:06 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>>
>> Anti zip tie, but oddly the idea of gluing wires is somehow appealing!?
>
>

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

I'm a complicated guy, what can I say...


On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 2:53:06 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> Anti zip tie, but oddly the idea of gluing wires is somehow appealing!?

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

Thank God. ;-)

On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 at 1:42:39 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I have one bike that has a VeloLumino sitcker on it.  That bike features 
> two ingenious VeloLumino products.  That bike has no zip ties on it.  
>
>
>>>

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

I put stickers on my fenders and don't consider them in the same aesthetic 
vein as zip ties at all.

Anton





On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:44:48 PM UTC-4, Mark in Beacon wrote:

> The fact that the owner wraps his bikes in string or puts stickers on 
> fenders or lets handlebar tape get ratty or uses zip ties to hold on a 
> basket is, to me, consistent with the company's overall approach to 
> bicycles, not contradictory. Though I certainly understand those who want 
> to keep their machines on the classy side of the street. 
>
>
>

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

And another thing about zip-ties, Bill, is that although you may be well 
literate in the differing standards that zip-ties may be manufactured to, 
the average consumer may not be. There are thousands of flavors of 
zip-ties, some great for attaching Wals baskets, some completely 
inappropriate, and most people would be none the wiser if they were told to 
"just use zip-ties".

Years ago, I attached a Wald basket with whatever zip-ties I had laying 
around. Some of them cracked within a year. Some time after that, I saw the 
packaging they had come in, laying in a bin in my workshop, and sure 
enough, it said for indoor use only.

Anton

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

Bill,

You interpreted my post  ("please, please don't use zip-ties") as being 
directed toward you since you posted about using zip-ties, when in fact it 
was directed at the original poster, who is/was (maybe not now after this 
debate?) asking about a Wald basket for his daughter's bike. The "please, 
please don't" was simply rhetoric for "I don't recommend", but again, and 
more importantly, it was directed at the OP, not you. Whether or not you 
had posted your zip-tie comment before I posted in this thread, I would 
have made the same comment against using zip-ties. I know you to make sound 
decisions regarding the build details of your own bikes, but that doesn't 
mean I won't disagree, especially when an inquiry is made that invites 
suggestions.

Anton

On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 2:52:22 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Will
>
> Thanks for that response.  I use 8 zipties to attach my basket to my rack. 
>  If one of them failed, I'd see it.  It's right there in front of my face. 
>  It would take all 8 failing to fall off my rack.  I'm not worried about 
> it, but I do pay attention to it.  If one breaks and I replace it, I 
> promise I will report about it.  :-)  I also run an Irish strap around the 
> tombstone and basket and my handlebar, a cheap hack safety recommendation I 
> picked up from the BLUG, and from multiple Riv employees.   You can kind of 
> see it here:
>
> Strapped 
>
> I agree that maybe Anton and Masmojo both didn't mean what they said when 
> they told me to stop using zipties.  Grant never says "stop using your 
> carbon fork" or "stop using your carbon bicycle" or "stop using skinny 
> tires".  He only gives reasons why he thinks you shouldn't use those 
> products.  If you don't think they are valid reasons you won't be 
> convinced.  If you do think they are valid reasons, you will be convinced.  
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 11:36:59 AM UTC-7, Will wrote:
>>
>> I dunno Bill... and I've always wondered why Riv advocates zip-ties on 
>> baskets. They are so dead set that carbon forks are bad because of the 
>> safety thing. 
>>
>> It seems to me that if your zip ties fail and you dump a basket of stuff 
>> into your wheel, or your basket connection fails and that interfers with 
>> your steering control at speed... well I dunno, it seems inconsistant to 
>> me. If a steel fork is necessary, well... so is a bullet proof basket 
>> connection.
>>
>> Consider the level of vibration the zip ties must mitigate. Clearly there 
>> is an opportunity for failure. 
>>
>> As for Anton and Masmojo GP has a whole slew of things he does not 
>> condone... skinny tires, carbon anything, big ring chainwheels, undignified 
>> paint schemes, short chainstays, low spoke wheels, low trail front ends, 
>> etc just saying...   :-)
>>
>> On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 1:05:49 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Masmojo,
>>>
>>> You are entitled to not-use zipties whenever you choose to not-use them. 
>>>  To paraphrase Yogi Berra:  "If people don't want to use zipties, nobody's 
>>> going to stop them".  Link to original Yogi Berra quote 
>>> 
>>>
>>> The place you or Anton lose me is when you tell other people to stop 
>>> using something that they like using.  Maybe you and Anton just didn't mean 
>>> what you said, but when you said "I don't condone it" and Anton said 
>>> "please please don't use zipties", that's where I politely and respectfully 
>>> recommend that you mind your own business.  On these boards, it's perfectly 
>>> fine to say that you use something and why you like it.  It's perfectly 
>>> fine to say why you don't use something.  It's fine to say "I don't 
>>> recommend using such and such and here's why".  It's fine to say "I won't 
>>> use that" and not give any reason.  But, when you tell people that you 
>>> don't condone me using something, or when Anton begs me to stop using 
>>> something that I like, I say "stay in your lane".  I will use what I like. 
>>>  If you want to educate me about things that I'm overlooking because you 
>>> want me to change my mind about zipties, then by all means go ahead and 
>>> educate me.  I reject the assertion that zipties are solely intended for 
>>> temporary applications.  People use zipties for cable management on their 
>>> solar panels for 20 years plus.  They don't die from UV, they don't fail, 
>>> and that's not temporary.  If your only reason is you think zipties on a 
>>> Rivendell is a lowbrow hack, I already know about that reason.  If you want 
>>> to recommend another way for me to attach my Wald Basket to my Nitto Rack 
>>> that is cheaper, lighter, stronger, easier to install, easier to remove and 
>>> similarly recyclable, then by all means, educate me.  I'm not receptive to 
>>> people telling me to stop using a product with no compelling reason.   
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, June 7, 

Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

I think Grant must have stock in a Zip Tie manufacturer somewhere...

Anton


On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 10:22:21 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> Additionally,  if others hadn't noticed and I don't think they really 
> highlight it, but I think the difference between the baskets that Rivendell 
> has & the normal Wald baskets is the Rivendell ones are just the basket, 
>  no handlebar loops or struts. 

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Re: Zip ties (WAS Re: [RBW] Re: Wald Basket??)

[Anton Tutter]

Oh boy. 





On Monday, June 6, 2016 at 6:00:25 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
>
> Confession time.  I'm a snob about British Racing Green.  I think BRG is 
> the most overused, ugly and mind numbingly boring color possible for a 
> bicycle.  I'm a snob about it.  If you gave me a BRG bicycle, I'd either 
> give it away or take to the painter.  I'm a snob about it, and I'm allowed 
> to be a snob about it.  I realize lots of people love BRG, and they are 
> entitled to love it.  
>
>
>>
 

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[RBW] Re: Wald Basket??

[Anton Tutter]

Right, I think the standard Riv setup is to use zip ties, which they 
recommend on their website (and which I firmly disagree with).
I've attached Wald baskets using SS wire. This takes more time than zip 
ties, but is infinitely more reliable (still, good ol' nuts and bolts are 
best).

Anton





On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 12:12:11 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> I think the difference between Walds normal baskets & Rivendells is the 
> Riv baskets look like they dont have the hangers or struts. 

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[RBW] Re: Wald Basket??

[Anton Tutter]

Wald baskets are okay, but IMO they are only acceptably stable when 
modified or used on a solid platform, discarding the stock struts they come 
with.  And please, please, don't fasten a Wald basket to a rack with zip 
ties. I know it can work for awhile and many people do it but zip ties 
inevitably snap from repeated stress.  The best way to secure a Wald, IMO, 
is to sandwich the basket and rack between large fender washers or an 
aluminum sheet/plate. I have a largish Wald on my Bike Friday Haul-a-Day. 
It's bolted to the stock tubular steel rack platform. The platform is made 
from aluminum diamond tread plate bolted to a tubular "U" shaped rack. 
I removed the plate and reinstalled it on top of the Wald, essentially 
sandwiching the Wald in place between the rack frame and the platform. It's 
held in place by 4 M6 bolts. It's held up really well this way.

Anton
velolumino.com


 

On Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 7:33:41 AM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> My daughter wants to buy this basket for her new, small (50) Cheviot.  
> http://www.modernbike.com/wald-135-grocery-basket-silver
>
> Have any of you tried it?  Whaddaya think?
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Wiring a Spanninga dyno tail light question...

[Anton Tutter]

The Spanninga wire connector system is not the best, but it's designed to 
be "easy" (for what it's worth).  Yes you only pass bare wire through the 
connector on the back. the little plastic piece is removable, and is used 
to pinch the bare wire ends against terminals inside the taillight. Make 
sure you drill at least a 1/4" hole in the fender for the wire to pass 
through, and de-burr it well. Run the hot wire from the Edelux taillight 
output (which is located on the bottom of the mount) to the taillight and 
insert into either of the two taillight inputs. There is no need to splice 
into the "core" wire that you mention (usually referred to has "hot" or 
"positive".  Then take a short wire that you connect to the rear fender 
stay nearby, or to the taillight's mounting bolt, and insert that into the 
other taillight input. It doesn't matter which one you use, there is no 
polarity. That's your "Ground".

I like to run the taillight wire inside the rolled edge of the fender. I 
use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut entry and exit holes in the rolled 
edge, then de-burr them. Like this:




Good luck.

Anton
velolumino.com




On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 6:34:51 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Decided to install it on my rear Honjo fender. Running wires from edeluxe 
> II hanging headlight.
>
> I have Schmidt SON wiring. I know how to wire it up on the headlight end. 
> My questions are about wiring to the tail light.
>
> *Wiring on the Spanninga light side:*
> 1. After I separate the ground threads from the power core of the Scmidt 
> wire, can I just insert the bare wires into the back of the Spanninga to 
> the contacts, or do I need spades of some kind?
> It looks like only bare wires can fit through the housing wire holes on 
> the back of the Spanninga housing.
>
> 2. Schmidt power core wire goes to Spanninga positive, and the ground to 
> negative? Or no need to connect the ground end on the Spanninga as it will 
> be connected to the headlight mount bolt anyway on the other end?
>
> As you can see, I know nothing about the flow of electrons.
>
> *Also:*
> *How did you physically run the wires into the fender? Looks like they 
> will get smushed against the fender when I tighten the Spanninga housing to 
> it.*
>

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Re: [RBW] IQ-X Headlight

[Anton Tutter]

I ordered mine a few weeks ago, got it in two weeks. I've ordered many 
times from bike24.de, they've always delivered in about two weeks. Never 
had a problem.

Anton


On Monday, April 4, 2016 at 8:21:09 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> So has anyone received their lights from bike-discount yet? Website says 
> they are in stock, I'm just waiting to pull the trigger

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Anton Tutter]

I have the simpler Luxos "B" without USB charging, and that one is 
problematic as well. Overall an unreliable light. Firstly, the external 
connection terminals are a poor, poor design and prone to snapping off. Not 
Good.  I've had to replace two of the four, which isn't a job for those 
uncomfortable with soldering. Secondly, my Luxos has started cutting in and 
out in wet weather... also Not Good.

I've never had problems with other B lights, but something went terribly 
wrong with this product.

I just bought their newest IQ-X... let's hope it's not another Luxos story.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 9:32:43 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> From what I understand, the Luxos U, while a wonderful light and charger, 
> has a lot of problems. I'm on my third one on my Hilsen. The USB has quit 
> working on two and #3 acted up for a bit at PBP but not since. However, I 
> sent the other two back to Peter White and once he tested them to be sure 
> it was faulty and not user error, he immediately replaced them. In fact, 
> one failed two days before a 400k brevet (which I'm not fast enough to ride 
> in daylight only) and he had me up and running in time! Hooray Peter! I 
> have the Edelux II on my new rando bike but haven't gotten to ride it at 
> night yet. 

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Anton Tutter]

Here's the experiment I did:  it was a wheel roll-down test, which measured 
the time it took for the wheel to come to a complete stop from a hard spin. 
It was a science experiment I did with my 9 year old daughter.  The higher 
the resistive load on the dynamo, the faster the wheel comes to a stop. We 
did the experiment on two different dynamo wheels: a 650B wheel with 
Schmidt Hub, and a 20" wheel with SP hub. The 20" wheel had much faster 
roll-down because smaller wheels have lower rotational inertia. Notice the 
sinewave charger had the same wheel roll-down time as nothing at all 
attached to the dynamo. The lights had the fastest roll-down time. I also 
threw in a couple of different resistors for comparison.

Anton
velolumino.com

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VRhro7LvjtY/VeOfzo9n70I/CHM/JRjgvr_q2tA/s1600/graph.jpg>


On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 1:41:17 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> I did an experiment, and came to the conclusion that the Sinewave charger 
> does not draw any significant power when there is no device plugged into 
> it. According to Sinewave's owner and founder, it draws about 6mA without 
> any device plugged in. That's about 1% of a typical dynamo load.
>
> Most modern headlights have built-in on/off switches.
>
> If you have a threadless headset, you can even get an integrated switch 
> for your lighting system that looks like a rotating stem cap, it was 
> developed and is hand-fabricated by me and Tom Matchak and we sell it 
> through Velo Lumino.
>
> Anton
> velolumino.com
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 12:43:06 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for all the responses. Looking forward to sitting down with all 
>> the links and info. It's a whole new realm.
>> I like the simplicity of luxos+usb. seems like it would be the easiest 
>> option. Something like Sinewave is actually what I assumed I was going to 
>> have to use, and that plus an external battery seems maybe more powerful 
>> and more boyscouty in its preparedness.
>>
>> Excuse the dumb questions, but...
>>
>> Say you go sinewave + random light. Are there off switches on these 
>> things? Or I guess, is the sinewave pulling power if nothing I plugged into 
>> it. Conversely, are there plain off switches on most lights? I'm aware that 
>> some have a light sensor with daytime/night time power. 
>> I guess my goal is to be able to power phone, music, camera (I have one 
>> device for each... I know, I know) during the day and use only the light at 
>> night. Just trying to see if power would need to be divided in this setup, 
>> or if day/night useage could be fully dedicated to power/light, 
>> respectively.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Anton Tutter]

I did an experiment, and came to the conclusion that the Sinewave charger 
does not draw any significant power when there is no device plugged into 
it. According to Sinewave's owner and founder, it draws about 6mA without 
any device plugged in. That's about 1% of a typical dynamo load.

Most modern headlights have built-in on/off switches.

If you have a threadless headset, you can even get an integrated switch for 
your lighting system that looks like a rotating stem cap, it was developed 
and is hand-fabricated by me and Tom Matchak and we sell it through Velo 
Lumino.

Anton
velolumino.com

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 12:43:06 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the responses. Looking forward to sitting down with all the 
> links and info. It's a whole new realm.
> I like the simplicity of luxos+usb. seems like it would be the easiest 
> option. Something like Sinewave is actually what I assumed I was going to 
> have to use, and that plus an external battery seems maybe more powerful 
> and more boyscouty in its preparedness.
>
> Excuse the dumb questions, but...
>
> Say you go sinewave + random light. Are there off switches on these 
> things? Or I guess, is the sinewave pulling power if nothing I plugged into 
> it. Conversely, are there plain off switches on most lights? I'm aware that 
> some have a light sensor with daytime/night time power. 
> I guess my goal is to be able to power phone, music, camera (I have one 
> device for each... I know, I know) during the day and use only the light at 
> night. Just trying to see if power would need to be divided in this setup, 
> or if day/night useage could be fully dedicated to power/light, 
> respectively.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Anton Tutter]

Rene,

The piggyback connectors should already by twice as wide to account for the 
double thickness. Just press them onto the hub terminals as normal, and 
you'll have a second set of new terminals to plug your headight wire into.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 10:59:03 AM UTC-4, René wrote:
>
> I checked out the Sinewave Cycles booth at NAHBS and came away impressed. 
> I'm going to get the Piggyback connectors to run the charger in parallel 
> with my light. However, now that I'm checking their site to order them, I 
> cannot figure out how they're installed on the Shmidt hub. 
>
> Do thy go side by side with the tabs on the hub and if so, do you need to 
> pry open one of the connectors due to the double thickness?
>
> Maybe I'm slow this morning, but I can't remember how it was explained to 
> me at their booth. There are no instructions on the website. 
>
> René 
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2016, Minh  
> wrote:
>
>> sorry all for replying to myself, re: the usb charging, try to solicit 
>> feedback from folks that have done it, for me the charge rate is slow 
>> enough that i'd rather have brighter lights in lieu of USB charging and 
>> i'll figure out the USB power another way (charging at lunch etc), but i 
>> also don't have a constant USB use requirement.  if i were needing to power 
>> a GPS computer or phone during the entire ride that may change my 
>> thinking---though i believe that in either case the phone would still use 
>> battery just at a lower rate than normal.  
>>
>> but make sure you do some research on this to make sure you understand 
>> the trade-offs.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 10:05:22 AM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>>>
>>> drew,
>>>
>>> it can feel overwhelming but don't over-think it too much, one thing i 
>>> have noticed is that lights are leap-frogging each other in terms of 
>>> brightness every year, even something like the luxos u (which is only 2 
>>>  years old?) are being beat in terms of brightness by the lights coming out 
>>> now.  the luxos is still quite bright so if the USB is a requirement i 
>>> would still choose it, but if not check out the newer lights as well.
>>>
>>> peter white and anton's site (velolumino) will have you covered, anton 
>>> in particular will give you the cleanest installation tips.
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Anton Tutter]

Thanks for the shout out, Brian!

Agreed, starting at Velo Lumino for generator basics is a great idea :). I 
offer the same wiring, connectors, grommets, and general installation 
materials that I use on all my custom installations. I also sell SP hubs.

For USB charging, I highly recommend the Sinewave Cycles USB charger 
(sinewavecycles.com), either the "Revolution" (matchbox size, zip-ties to 
fork) or the "Reactor" (integrated into a threadless stem cap with wires 
concealed within the fork steerer). Both use the same electronics, which 
are superior to any of the ones offered by Supernova and B The Sinewave 
charger is also designed and manufactured in the US.

Anton
velolumino.com

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 6:51:42 AM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Check out this site for materials.
>
> http://www.velolumino.com/
>
> I used the thin wire they supplied and ran it inside my fender and along 
> my frame by imbeding it ina bead of GOOP adhesive. It holds securely and 
> peels right off if need be with no damage to the paint. I was trying to 
> have my bike not covered in wires wrapped around everything.
>
> I also used their taillight which is expensive but works and looks great. 
> I used a Schmidt Edelux II headlight and it is pretty awesome. Very bright 
> and very light.
>
> Semi recent picture of my Hilsen.
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: need help finding a custom quill stem maker?

[Anton Tutter]

Most any frame builder who is comfortable also making stems can make you 
that stem. Off the top of my head I'd ask Mitch Pryor, Brian Chapman or 
Eric Estlund of Winter Cycles. Both routinely make very nice quill stems 
for their bikes, but I'm not sure if they'd do one-offs for another bike. 
Jeff Lyon built me a beautiful threadless stem; he might make you a quill 
one.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 3:50:58 PM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> Looking for a 31.8 quill stem. I saw the NItto UI-12, but am afraid with 
> only 85mm of height above min insertion line, I am thinking of going 
> through the custom route.
>
> Anyone know of any custom stem makers that make quill stems for 31.8 
> clamps that is suitable for offroad use?
>

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[RBW] The next Velo Lumino product: rear fender reinforcement plate

[Anton Tutter]

Velo Lumino is expanding into the "fender installation widget" space. The 
first of several widgets in this category is a reinforcement plate inspired 
by the old French constructeurs. It reduces fender stress fatigue at a 
common failure location by reducing localized stress risers. And it looks 
damn fine while doing it. Photo below is on a VO Zeppelin 650B fender. The 
plate is thin enough (0.64mm) that is doesn't noticeably alter the fender 
line of existing fender installations, and its shape can be tweaked by hand 
to follow different fender contours.







It's cut from aluminum sheet stock using water jet technology. It's then 
pressed onto a curved form to create a nominal fender cross-section radius 
and finally it's machine polished to a mirror finish. Two flat-head 
stainless M3 bolts with flat washers, star washers, nuts and a leather 
washer for the bridge are included in the price.


$17 on velolumino.com 


Anton, who is working on yet more fender installation widgets...

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[RBW] Re: Correspondence Card Interest?

[Anton Tutter]

How does one "jot a quick note" without a keyboard? I'm confused.

Anton


On Thursday, March 17, 2016 at 3:19:09 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Do you wish for a simple way to connect with people through actual 
> handwriting? I'm gauging folks' interest in purchasing correspondence 
> cards. What is a correspondence card? A  simple, practical stationary for 
> jotting a quick note via snail mail that looks good with even just a few 
> lines.
>
> The plan:
>
> -- 4.25" x 5.5"
> -- Ivory linen card stock
> -- Rivendellian single colored ink (likely a green or blue that resembles 
> their sweater offerings over the years)
> -- Simple, soft ruled lines that guide handwriting without distracting 
> (hopefully softer than in the mockup photos attached.)
> -- Matching envelopes
> -- Sets of 10, price uncertain, but around $30 delivered.
> -- Art of Hunqapillar at rest by my second daughter (12) (see mockup for 
> art)
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Exciting news from Velo Lumino: we now carry SP dynamo hubs

[Anton Tutter]

I'm excited to announce that Velo Lumino is expanding their product 
offerings in integrated lighting solutions. We are now selling the entire 
line of SP dynamo hubs. These are turning into fantastic little hubs. I now 
have two for personal use, one on my Bike Friday with 20" wheels, and one 
on my Rawland Stag with 650B wheels. Both have been performing flawlessly.

I am carrying the entire 2016 line of dynamos, including the all new SV-9 
series, which is the smallest and lightest 6V/2.4W hub dynamo in the world 
(smaller and lighter than the SONdelux).

More info on velolumino.com 
 and on 
sp-dynamo.com 

And, enjoy free shipping on SP dynamo hubs anywhere in the world!

Of course, we also have stock of all our existing Velo Lumino lighting 
components: the AT fender taillight, the TMAT stem switch and the AT 
headlight mount.  And coming soon will be a new fender-related widget, 
which I'll announce shortly.

Anton
velolumino.com

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Re: [RBW] Exciting news from Velo Lumino: we now carry SP dynamo hubs

[Anton Tutter]

Same here. I can tell anytime my lights are on with the Shimano hubs. I 
can't tell with the SP series 8 (or the Schmidt) hubs.

I can't wait to try a SV-9. 

Anton
velolumino.com


On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 8:42:37 PM UTC-4, Avery Wilson wrote:
>
> Overwhelmingly positive endorsement from me as well. Switched from a 
> shimano dynamo hub that had obvious resistance when turned on (vibration 
> through handlebar) and then just quit working within 100 miles. The SP is 
> light-years better than shimano. Seriously can't even tell when it's on, so 
> I leave it on all the time with an edelux ii and b tail light. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: IQ-X Headlight

[Anton Tutter]

I have several B Senso-enabled headlights and they never switch off with 
oncoming traffic. The sensors are in the rear and sense ambient light. The 
light from car headlights is probably too focused to register with the 
sensor.

Anton

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 10:58:11 AM UTC-5, William! wrote:
>
> I’ve been using another B Senso light (the Eyc T) for a few years and 
> have never had an issue with it switching off when it shouldn’t. The 
> daytime brightness seems to be quite reasonable, and most of the beam at 
> night is focused where it should be (on the path in front of me). I’ve 
> never had drivers or other riders complain about the light’s brightness.
>
> The one complaint I have had is when the bike is at *very *low speeds 
> (often when I am walking with the bike), the light blinks. It’s not 
> particularly garish compared to many blinky lights, but the fact that it is 
> always on is annoying and has led to some awkward situations. I’d prefer if 
> it didn’t blink at low speeds, or at least not during the daytime.
>
> Best,
> William
>
> On Tue, Mar 8, 2016 at 6:38 AM Eric Norris  
> wrote:
>
>> Haven't tried it, but I think it would take more than an oncoming car to 
>> make it switch. The manual says the light waits a few seconds before 
>> switching when conditions change, to keep the output from fluctuating too 
>> much.
>>
>> --Eric N
>> www.CampyOnly.com 
>> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com 
>> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>
>> On Mar 8, 2016, at 6:07 AM, David Banzer  
>> wrote:
>>
>> I'm curious about the senso-only mode. Does it work well? My concern 
>> would be oncoming traffic lights making the IQ think that there's 
>> sufficient light and switch to daytime lights. Maybe I'm overthinking this 
>> one.
>> David
>> Chicago
>>
>> On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>
>>> My report thus far on the IQ-X headlight:
>>>
>>>
>>> http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2016/03/busch-and-muller-iq-x-headlight.html
>>>  
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> www.campyonly.com
>>> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>>>
>>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: IQ-X Headlight

[Anton Tutter]

I saw this on bike24.de but it's been non-stocked for months. I wonder if 
they're finally available... this does look like a very promising new 
advancement in headlights.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 9:33:24 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> My report thus far on the IQ-X headlight:
>
>
> http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2016/03/busch-and-muller-iq-x-headlight.html
>  
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: No bike parking lockable signs? What's going on these days???

[Anton Tutter]

With all the traffic and parking rules in place in rule-heavy Masachusetts, 
there's no shortage of signposts to lock to around greater urban Boston. 
It's also legal in almost all cases, except when the signposts have 
anything to do with handicapped drivers/pedestrians. And it's not legal to 
lock to trees.

Anton


On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:17:46 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I notice that bike lockable metal sign poles in front of retailers, 
> offices, stores, etc. seem to be getting phased out in favor of those 
> concrete pillars from which the metal sign poles erupt at about 4' off the 
> ground. Making it hard to find a sign pole to lock up to with a U lock.
>
> I have noticed this more and more as I pull up to stores and offices and 
> seems like sometimes there is...just...no...place...to lock up.
>
> I had to lock my Bleriot to a railing on a neighboring business's patio 
> with my bike 3 feet off the ground on Monday and then had to lock up around 
> the side of a building to their meter power line on the same day, different 
> stop.
>
> I use a U lock and don't want to use a cable lock, so this is kind of a 
> bummer to me.
>
> The upside is that I guess a thief won't try to cut a power line. The 
> downside is that electrical hazard to the rider; the fact that it is 
> probably against the law to lock up to private property; and the fact that 
> if someone would have seen me they would have thought I was messing with 
> their power meter and they probably would have had the cops down on me in 
> no time. So I won't be doing that again.
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Shutter Precision PV-8 Dynamo (SP dyno) Hub 36h questions

[Anton Tutter]

Eric is correct. The SON hubs have a "pressure compensation" system which 
prevents the hub from sucking in moisture through the bearings as the air 
in the void spaces inside the hub contract when the hub goes from a warm 
environment to a cold one, or vice versa. I don't believe any other dynamo 
hub on the market has this system, which is not necessary in a non-dyno hub 
because the interior air volume is so much lower on a standard hub.

That said, I have two Shimano hubs that have been in service since 2011 and 
2012, respectively, with the 2012 hub seeing winter use each year. Neither 
hub has had any issues so far. I also have an SP hub which is just now 
seeing its first winter, and no issues yet, although it's really too early 
to make a judgment on its longevity.

I have a friend with an SP hub that did just fail after its third winter 
season. The bearings seized up. Whether it was from moisture penetration as 
discussed above, or from some other effect, I don't know.

Anton


On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 1:09:06 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> From what I’ve read, the SP hubs aren’t as nicely sealed as the SON. I 
> think the question about “air pressure” relates to the SON’s reputedly 
> better ability to deal with changing air pressure—you go from a warm house 
> to a cold, wet outdoor environment, and the air inside the hub contracts 
> and draws moisture into the hub as the outside air enters to equalize the 
> pressure. You can avoid this by letting the bike “cool down” to the outside 
> temperature before you get it wet.
>
> That being said, I’ve heard from people who have used SP hubs for extended 
> periods with no problems of this sort. If you don’t go from a warm house 
> immediately into a cold rain, you should be OK.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
> On Feb 5, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Jim Bronson  
> wrote:
>
> What air pressure system?  The SONDeluxe is sealed. 
>
> I know of the old oil-can style hubs, in case of a sudden change in 
> temperatures, could develop a pressure gradient and suck in moisture, but 
> that was fixed in production many years ago.
>
> On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 10:56 AM, Lungimsam  > wrote:
>
>> 1. How ling 'til it has to be serviced?
>> 2. Who can service it? Any LBS or have to mail to them?
>> 3. Does it have that air pressure system like the SON deluxe hubs do?
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Nitto Lamp Holder No. 6 (aka Nitto Screw Mount LEFT)

[Anton Tutter]

Just in case people are interested, Velo Lumino is developng a new 
semi-universal headlight mount for front racks. It will clamp solidly to 
rack stays of 7-10mm diameter with included brass shims. It will mount 
anywhere on any rack stay on either side without an eyelet. Any standard 
headlight that uses a horizontal M6 mounting bolt (most Schmidt, B and 
Supernova headlights, etc) will mount to it, with either a bottom 
(standard) mount or a top mount (upside down Edelux).  Since this is not an 
"arm" type mount, it won't be as susceptible to lever arm forces as the 
arm-type mounts to bolt onto rack eyelets.

Stay tuned... should be available in a few months.







And don't forget, Velo Lumino  already sells 
the fender headlight mount 
, which also works with 
headlights that use horizontal M6 mounting bolts. 

Anton
velolumino.com

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[RBW] Re: OT: questions about multiple computer screens

[Anton Tutter]

Sorry I completely missed this discussion, but at work my productivity is 
enhanced many-fold by virtue of two side-by-side 24" monitors plugged into 
my laptop's dock. I don't even use the 15" built-in screen, I keep the 
laptop closed. At home I use a MacBook Pro 15 (and agree the screen quality 
is excellent) but at work the standard issue laptop is a Lenovo ThinkPad 
with dock. The dock has two monitor ports... I'm not sure this is possible 
on a Mac? Possibly with third-party hardware? At any rate, I would quit my 
job if they took away my twin 24" monitors, I'm that dependent on them-- I 
often have large, and multiple datasets open and have to move and shuffle 
data between them.

Anton


On Wednesday, February 3, 2016 at 11:53:48 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Thanks for all youse's advice. I am now typing on a new 15" Macbook Pro 
> (well , new to me, refurbished) while listening to music on Youtube on a 
> 28" Samsung monitor, after having traded my Macbook Pro 17" in part trade 
> for my daughter's new Macbook Air (her 2008 white Mac was getting pretty 
> bad).
>
> The Samsung will let me get at least 4 open documents in readable size, 
> and the screens on the new Macs are astounding in their quality.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Patrick
>
> On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 3:46 PM, Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> I probably should have answered this question long ago, but tell me, you 
>> who work a lot on computers, particularly those of you who write: are you 
>> more productive with 2 or even 3 screens than with 1? I assume a situation 
>> where you refer to multiple open documents. 
>>
>> #2: if yes, would the advantage in your case justify the cost of 2 new 
>> screens and a new (larger) desk? (I expect to spend at least 2-3K on a good 
>> desk -- my present armoire desk can't accommodate more than 1 screen.)
>>
>> #3: Again, if yes: what brands and models would you recommend for decent 
>> but not necessarily top level 17" screens? This is for fancy word 
>> processing, not graphics.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shimano DH-3N72 Dyno Hub Light Recommendation

[Anton Tutter]

You're right that a standard Edelux would not fit without a bracket, but 
the Eyc is so small that with a simple spacer, it will bolt to the eyelet 
and not stick up high enough to interfere with a bag or basket placed on 
the rack.

Anton


On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 8:34:21 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Well, except that if you want to mount the light to the rack he has, the 
> upside down Edelux II is the only logical choice.  It should bolt right 
> onto that front eyelet.  Anything else is going to require faffing around 
> with mounting brackets.  Certainly the standard bracket that comes with the 
> Eyc won't work.  You're probably going to need something like one arm of an 
> old centerpull brake, something like this:
>
>
>
> possibly turned upside down, and it's going to end up stuck way out in 
> front of the rack, probably leaving the light vulnerable to accidental 
> impacts.  The upside down Edelux should bolt right to the front rack eyelet 
> and end up tucked under the rack and largely protected by it.
>
> But you're right, it's not cheap.
>
>
> On 01/28/2016 11:15 PM, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> Others have mentioned the Edelux II. It is a sweet light, the gold 
> standard, but it costs a lot, and if you're just "dyno-curious" and don't 
> do a lot of nighttime riding, you can't go wrong with an inexpensive B 
> Eyc. Under $50, and it outperforms lights that cost three times that amount 
> just a few years ago.  
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281914048648?ul_noapp=true=ps=82 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Dyno light recommendation

[Anton Tutter]

The new Eycs are 1/3 the price of the Cyos and have a beam almost as good.

I've had great luck with my first SP hub. No discernible drag and no 
discernible vibration, unlike my two Shimano dynohubs. I liked the SP so 
much I've ordered a second one to build up into a new wheel for another 
bike. They're a bargain. Granted, we don't know how these will hold up over 
the long haul since they haven't been around that long, but so far, so 
good. Both of my Shimanos have held up fine over 4-5 years.

Anton


On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 12:07:44 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I agree with Steve that the Edeluxe II is probably the ne plus ultra of 
> road riding dyno lights (I am going to try an uber Supernova for dirt 
> riding, if my LBS can find it in stock). Even my Edeluxe I (beam said to be 
> narrower and less bright) is * almost* good enough for my bad night 
> vision off road; not quite.
>
> But for occasional use, consider the Cyos (
> http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b) which are much cheaper and, I 
> think, use similar or the same optics. I found the Cyos I used, both 
> probably circa 2012 or so, to be as good at illuminating the road as the 
> Edeluxe I.
>
> http://www.starbike.com/en/busch-and-mueller-lumotec-iq-cyo/
>
> Also, consider the SP dyno hubs in place of the Shimanos: IME, as cheap or 
> cheaper, much lighter, less drag by the "hold up the front wheel and spin 
> and let coast" test, and much prettier.
>
> Has anyone used the Supernova E3 Triple 2? (Weird name.) This is said by 
> web scuttlebutt to put out 640 lumens (I read lumens counts as vaguely 
> meaning, in the real world of actual "see where you are going", as "as 
> bright as you could want when you ride off road" in place of the "almost 
> bright enough for dirt" for the Edeluxes and Cyos. 
>
> My fear is that the E3 T3 will be *too *bright on pavement for oncoming 
> riders. Anyone? If so, how to deal with it? Do we need hi/low beams for 
> bicycle dyno lights?
>
>
> RDS  wrote: 
>
>>
>>
>> I have a Clem 52 which has 27.5" wheels.  I just received a front wheel 
>> with a Shimano DH-3N72 dyno hub.  I have never used a dyno hub.  I know 
>> nothing about this type of lighting system, but want to give it a try more 
>> out of curiousity than need.  I am looking for light recommendations.  Is 
>> the light always on while pedalling?  Can a light be turned on or off while 
>> pedalling?  I will probably just do a front light for time being. How do I 
>> know specs for a light that is compatable with this particular hub?  My 
>> clem has the small mark's rack on front, so any suggestions as where to 
>> mount this light (high, low, on the rack, on the fork, ???)
>>
>> I don't get to ride as much as most of you.  Most of the time I will not 
>> "need" this light.  It will be more for times when darkness beats me back 
>> to the truck.  I do not live near a big city, so NO city riding needs for 
>> this light.  It will be more for cycle paths or a somewhat rural setting.  
>> So, traffic will be minimal for the near future.
>>
>> Any advice or thoughts appreciated.
>>
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Shimano DH-3N72 Dyno Hub Light Recommendation

[Anton Tutter]

They're German.

On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 4:30:51 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I don't understand why light makers can't just call their lights Model 1, 
> 2, 3, etc.,  like edeluxe does, instead of names that are so close, but 
> different it makes it nigh on impossible to sort them out. So confusing. 
> And I think some websites are calling the same light model by a different 
> name:
>
> Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Cyo Premium
> Busch & Müller Eyc 
> Lumotec IQ Premium Fly RT Senso Plus
> Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo
> Lumotech Eyc T Senso Plus
> Lumotec Eyc N Plus
> B Eyc T Senso Plus
> Luxos IQ2
> Busch & Müller Lumotec HL Classic N Plus
> Busch & Müller Luxos IQ2 B 
> Luxos B
> Luxos U
> Busch & Müller Avy LED
> Maybe the "Lumotec B IQ2 B U Premium Fly RT Avy Cyo T N HL Classic 
> Premium Senso Plus"  model will come out in 2016!!!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Shimano DH-3N72 Dyno Hub Light Recommendation

[Anton Tutter]

Others have mentioned the Edelux II. It is a sweet light, the gold 
standard, but it costs a lot, and if you're just "dyno-curious" and don't 
do a lot of nighttime riding, you can't go wrong with an inexpensive B 
Eyc. Under $50, and it outperforms lights that cost three times that amount 
just a few years ago. 
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281914048648?ul_noapp=true=ps=82

Anton


On Thursday, January 28, 2016 at 9:19:21 PM UTC-5, RDS wrote:
>
> Light Recommendation
>
> I have a Clem 52 which has 27.5" wheels.  I just received a front wheel 
> with a Shimano DH-3N72 dyno hub.  I have never used a dyno hub.  I know 
> nothing about this type of lighting system, but want to give it a try more 
> out of curiousity than need.  I am looking for light recommendations.  Is 
> the light always on while pedalling?  Can a light be turned on or off while 
> pedalling?  I will probably just do a front light for time being. How do I 
> know specs for a light that is compatable with this particular hub?  My 
> clem has the small mark's rack on front, so any suggestions as where to 
> mount this light (high, low, on the rack, on the fork, ???)
>
> I don't get to ride as much as most of you.  Most of the time I will not 
> "need" this light.  It will be more for times when darkness beats me back 
> to the truck.  I do not live near a big city, so NO city riding needs for 
> this light.  It will be more for cycle paths or a somewhat rural setting. 
>  So, traffic will be minimal for the near future.
>
> Any advice or thoughts appreciated.
>

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[RBW] Re: Mystery Science Question

[Anton Tutter]

The only time I've ever had rotation of the outer locknut in a hub (which 
is what you're experiencing here, since the electrical connector is 
essentially one with the outer locknut) was when the axle was too long and 
was not allowing the QR ends to compress the dropouts tightly. the QR ends 
were bottoming out on the axle itself. As nother poster suggested, see what 
happens with a different QR.

Anton


On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 8:05:46 PM UTC-5, MattB wrote:
>
> Last fall I built a new front wheel for my Atlantis with one of the 
> Shutter Precision generator hubs, best thing I've ever added to my bike by 
> the way, but I've been experiencing an odd phenomenon with the electrical 
> connector. The first attached picture shows the rotational location of the 
> connector with respect to the fork blade. Sort of facing up, keeps the 
> headlight wires out of the way, all good stuff.  Approximately a week 
> later, this involves daily commutes - probably less than 75 total miles, 
> The connector seems to have rotated counterclockwise, as you view the axle, 
> back to the position shown in the second picture.  Now the connector has 
> rotated back behind the fork blade and seems to be happy to keep rotating 
> until the headlight wires become tight.
> Has anyone else encountered this?  Have I fallen into a rotational inertia 
> vortex in which the conservation of the moments of the wheel rolling 
> forward and me constantly turning right and resulted in the electrical 
> connector seemingly rotating back against the direction of the hub? Or am I 
> just imagining this?  Has anyone else experienced this?
> Any thoughts from the scientists out there?
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rust-proofing your frames

[Anton Tutter]

Good luck with the FluidFilm, I've heard the stuff is great. I had been 
using FrameSaver and liked it a lot, but switched to Boeshield once when 
there seemed to be a worldwide shortage of FrameSaver.  Boeshield doesn't 
seem to dry as waxy as FrameSaver, and whatever residue it leaves behind is 
very thin, but I suppose it's better than nothing.

If you haven't already put a new BB in, while the BB shell is empty you 
might want to drill a small (1/8") hole through the bottom of the BB shell 
if the Atlantis's shell isn't already drilled. It is the best way to ensure 
that any trapped moisture or even standing water drains and vents. You can 
dab a little FluidFilm on the bare metal exposed from drilling. I've done 
this on a few bikes and have been glad I did.

Anton


On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 10:35:59 AM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Took the plunge last night and stripped the Atlantis down to the frame and 
> gave it a good dose of FluidFilm. The stuff sprays on nice and easy. I used 
> painters tape to seal off the bottom end of each tube, sprayed from the top 
> liberally, the taped off the top and end spun the frame around to coat 
> everything inside. Mess was minimal and I was able to apply it inside my 
> apartment. This morning it looks like the stuff has started to cure a bit, 
> into a yellowish thin film. The can says it will never harden, but rather 
> retain a soft waxy feel. Tonight I'll re-assemble the bike. Sad news was I 
> discovered my Phil BB, less than a year old, has notchy bearings already. 
> Not impressed. 
>
> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 1:09:41 PM UTC-6, Kieran J wrote:
>>
>> I've bought Boeshield at Lee Valley in the recent past. Some LBSs carry 
>> it too.
>>
>> KJ
>>
>>
>> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 1:59:20 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Mark...I would definitely spray something in your frame...we've used 
>>> Boeshield and LPS3 and I've had my frames sprayed a couple of times over 
>>> the years. I suspect your Atlantis was initially treated with Boeshield or 
>>> LPS3 or some such, but the treatment does  need to be periodically 
>>> repeated. Lee Valley used to sell a really good lubricant,  with , I think, 
>>> lanolin as an ingredient but I don't see it there
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 10:54:33 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Ah, I'm familiar with that product. And on that note, can't believe I 
 forgot about this, I JUST rust treated a 40 year old motorcycle tank. It 
 was nsty rusty inside. Guess what ate the rust clean off, is dirt 
 cheap, can be dumped onto the street after, and available everywhere? 

 White vinegar! 

 I filled the tank (which was completely lined with rust) with vinegar, 
 and added a few small sheet metal screws to knock the rust loose when I'd 
 shake it. I let it sit for about a week, shaking it a few times a day. A 
 week might have been way more than needed. but the point is, it came out 
 100% clean. I then treated it with an epoxy tank liner product to prevent 
 rust from returning, which I wouldn't ever do on a bike frame, but the 
 vinegar would certainly be a good rust treatment for inside a rusty 
 bicycle 
 frame. 

 On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 10:49 AM, drew  wrote:

> amsoil hdmp is, from what i can tell, the exact same thing as jpw 
> frame saver.  it's awesome. boeshield feels watery and runny, but 
> amsoil/framesaver sticks and runs the right amount to make you confident 
> that its on, and staying on, all surfaces. 
>
> if you are worried about rust that you already have, i had great luck 
> refurbishing a rust bucket frame with THIS 
> 
>  product. 
> i stripped the frame, plugged all holes, filled the frame with the 
> liquid for about a day, dumped it out and with it came the rust. then 
> just 
> applied amsoil. 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rust-proofing your frames

[Anton Tutter]

I've had Phil BB bearings go bad in just one season from water intrusion. 
In my case, it wasn't even submersion or winter riding. Regular rainwater 
had made its way into the frame and pooled down at the BB shell. I removed 
the Phil after noticing it was spinning a little rough, and sure enough 
there were rust stains all over it and inside the BB shell. It was out of 
warranty, so I had no choice but to pony up for new bearings. At least Phil 
doesn't charge much for servicing; the bulk of the cost is the bearings 
themselves.  But I was annoyed-- those bearings should withstand water 
intrusion better than they do.

Anton


On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 12:31:35 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Yeah I thought about that, but that will put it out of service for at 
> least two weeks, plus 30 bucks in shipping. Alternatively I could go down 
> to a bearing supplier and get equally high end bearings for under 30 bucks 
> and replace them myself, have it back on the road in an evening. Phil has 
> been good to me with fast turn-around and customer service, it's just the 
> US/Canada thing that gets in the way. 
>
> I've heard of their BB's lasting way, way longer than mine on a regular 
> occasion. My suspicion is that my bearings are rough either because they've 
> been submerged in water briefly (remember the s24o report where I attempted 
> to carrying the Atlantis across a swamp? The bb definitely took a bath), or 
> they were over-torqued on installation (I didn't use a torque wrench, next 
> time I will. I've found reports online of premature bearing wear as a 
> result of over tightening). 
>
> On Mon, Jan 11, 2016 at 11:25 AM, Ryan Fleming  > wrote:
>
>> I would try sending it to phil wood...I feel like it should last longer 
>> than it did
>>
>>
>> On Monday, January 11, 2016 at 9:35:59 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Took the plunge last night and stripped the Atlantis down to the frame 
>>> and gave it a good dose of FluidFilm. The stuff sprays on nice and easy. I 
>>> used painters tape to seal off the bottom end of each tube, sprayed from 
>>> the top liberally, the taped off the top and end spun the frame around to 
>>> coat everything inside. Mess was minimal and I was able to apply it inside 
>>> my apartment. This morning it looks like the stuff has started to cure a 
>>> bit, into a yellowish thin film. The can says it will never harden, but 
>>> rather retain a soft waxy feel. Tonight I'll re-assemble the bike. Sad news 
>>> was I discovered my Phil BB, less than a year old, has notchy bearings 
>>> already. Not impressed. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 1:09:41 PM UTC-6, Kieran J wrote:

 I've bought Boeshield at Lee Valley in the recent past. Some LBSs carry 
 it too.

 KJ


 On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 1:59:20 PM UTC-5, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Hi Mark...I would definitely spray something in your frame...we've 
> used Boeshield and LPS3 and I've had my frames sprayed a couple of times 
> over the years. I suspect your Atlantis was initially treated with 
> Boeshield or LPS3 or some such, but the treatment does  need to be 
> periodically repeated. Lee Valley used to sell a really good lubricant, 
>  with , I think, lanolin as an ingredient but I don't see it there
>
> On Friday, January 8, 2016 at 10:54:33 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Ah, I'm familiar with that product. And on that note, can't believe I 
>> forgot about this, I JUST rust treated a 40 year old motorcycle tank. It 
>> was nsty rusty inside. Guess what ate the rust clean off, is dirt 
>> cheap, can be dumped onto the street after, and available everywhere? 
>>
>> White vinegar! 
>>
>> I filled the tank (which was completely lined with rust) with 
>> vinegar, and added a few small sheet metal screws to knock the rust 
>> loose 
>> when I'd shake it. I let it sit for about a week, shaking it a few times 
>> a 
>> day. A week might have been way more than needed. but the point is, it 
>> came 
>> out 100% clean. I then treated it with an epoxy tank liner product to 
>> prevent rust from returning, which I wouldn't ever do on a bike frame, 
>> but 
>> the vinegar would certainly be a good rust treatment for inside a rusty 
>> bicycle frame. 
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 10:49 AM, drew  wrote:
>>
>>> amsoil hdmp is, from what i can tell, the exact same thing as jpw 
>>> frame saver.  it's awesome. boeshield feels watery and runny, but 
>>> amsoil/framesaver sticks and runs the right amount to make you 
>>> confident 
>>> that its on, and staying on, all surfaces. 
>>>
>>> if you are worried about rust that you already have, i had great 
>>> luck refurbishing a rust bucket frame with THIS 
>>> 

Re: [RBW] Rear fender mounting. Was: Christmas Clementine

[Anton Tutter]

Not much to add here, but did anyone say spacers?

Here's how I achieved an acceptable fender line on my Bike Friday. The 
kickstand plate had a threaded bore for a fender mount but you could park a 
Cadillac in the space between it and the fender.

Anton
velolumino.com



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[RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[Anton Tutter]

Why yes they are... oops!

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rTm_iIR1Vb4/VomRhs3jKQI/CWU/HPPTOBFkOUY/s1600/IMG_0414.jpg>


<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J19fyXtQa3I/VomRkXingZI/CWc/L1cAjB4jlz8/s1600/IMG_0418.jpg>




On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 4:19:25 PM UTC-5, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Anton
>
> Are the photos missing??
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 8:55:04 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
>> Anne, this is a common problem with B lights. It is caused by a poor 
>> terminal design.
>>
>> It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the 
>> broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm 
>> happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.
>>
>> Anton
>> velolumino.com
>> somervillebikes.wordpress.com
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>>
>>> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that 
>>> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and 
>>> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the 
>>> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want 
>>> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny 
>>> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and 
>>> solder on a new connector? 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> -- Anne Paulson 
>>>
>>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[Anton Tutter]

Here are before and after photos of Anne's Luxos.  I'm posting this here 
because this is a very common problem and one that everyone who owns a 
Luxos should be aware of. The defect is a poor connector design which is 
not properly strain relieved and very prone to snapping in half. Once this 
happens, there is no way to connect wires to the light. On Anne's light, 
one terminal was snapped off, and another was hanging by a thread. One 
gentle tug and it snapped off. The solution is to remove the stubs of the 
broken terminals and solder new ones in their place, or replace the 
terminals with wires that extend out the back of the light. I installed new 
terminals.

This light will be on its way back to Anne shortly. 

Anton
velolumino.com


<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SbFSMLGvNr4/Vol0XTF0h6I/CWA/PbqmgV6PR3o/s1600/IMG_0414.jpg>

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zKfAkxWzsiY/Vol0I2FPshI/CV4/JkW0NE4Q3rs/s1600/IMG_0418.jpg>


On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 9:55:04 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> Anne, this is a common problem with B lights. It is caused by a poor 
> terminal design.
>
> It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the 
> broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm 
> happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.
>
> Anton
> velolumino.com
> somervillebikes.wordpress.com
>
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>
>> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that 
>> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and 
>> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the 
>> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want 
>> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny 
>> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and 
>> solder on a new connector? 
>>
>> -- 
>> -- Anne Paulson 
>>
>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Do you ever find yourself tempted by brifters?

[Anton Tutter]

I've converted to brifters, and I won't look back.

I've had Shimano STI, Campy Ergo and SRAM DoubleTap. Currently have Campy 
and SRAM in my stable, and I prefer the SRAM DoubleTap ever so slightly 
over Campy Ergo. I didn't like Shimano STI as much... Both the Campy and 
SRAM hoods are very comfortable, but the SRAM shifting mechanism has the 
best feel, IMO.

Anton


On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 11:05:33 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> I find myself re-thinking my allegiance to bar-ends, because I sweat 
> so much between May and September riding here in Texas, that I gum 
> them up fairly regularly. 
>
> Then something like this comes up. 
>
> http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?partNumber=YS-ST4600-BASE=10052=10053=-1_source=nashbar_medium=email_content=151210Th_campaign=Products_mmc=Email-_-nashbar-_-151210Th-_-Products_em=jim.bron...@gmail.com=12498453=NjA1MzcwOTY2NDES1=643355659=NjQzMzU1NjU5S0
>  
>
> And I find myself feeling conflicted.  This is only a little more than 
> what Riv sells bar-ends for... 
>
> -- 
> -- 
> signature goes here 
>

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[RBW] Re: Spanninga on hammered fender? Does it sit right?

[Anton Tutter]

Yes, I forgot about this. Spanninga uses a weird connector that was 
designed to let you use bare stripped wires, but it pinches them against 
the fender.

Anton

velolumino.com


On Wednesday, November 11, 2015 at 7:06:38 PM UTC-5, Don Funke wrote:
>
> You may need to take the light apart and solder the contacts for the light 
> to fit flush against the fender. It's a hassle, but I had to go that route. 
>
> On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 2:56:08 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Before I cut holes into a Honjo fender, does the Spaninga even sit right 
>> against the hammered contours, or is it a no go?
>>
>> Can you get it to sit flush or do the contours make it sit other than 
>> optimal? Don't want to stress the fender.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Spanninga on hammered fender? Does it sit right?

[Anton Tutter]

There's enough contact over a broad area that the light will sit squarely 
on top of the hammered edges. No issues at all, I've had one or two on 
hammered fenders.  Of course, I now use Velo Lumino taillights on hammered 
fenders :).

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com


On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 4:56:08 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Before I cut holes into a Honjo fender, does the Spaninga even sit right 
> against the hammered contours, or is it a no go?
>
> Can you get it to sit flush or do the contours make it sit other than 
> optimal? Don't want to stress the fender.
>

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[RBW] Stuff for sale

[Anton Tutter]

I've got a few things to clean out of my bike parts stash. 


   - *Brooks Titanium Team Pro,* used once. $170 + 8 shipping.  I bought 
   this new as an indulgence because the fit of old classic Pros has worked 
   well for me, but I found the new one to just not work with my anatomy. It 
   has exactly 55 dry miles ridden on it. Comes with the original display card 
   and tensioning wrench.
   - *Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals*, 3-hole. $23 + $5 shipping. 
   Bought these about five years ago along with 2-hole Shimano pedals when 
   going clipless. Rode these less than 200 miles, and quickly ended up 
   settling into the 2-hole SPD mtb shoe camp.
   - *Lake road shoes, men's 46 wide*. Not sure of model. $35 + $8 
   shipping. 3-hole, with BOA lacing system. Less than 200 miles of use, in 
   really nice shape.
   - *Velo Orange 1" headset bell mount*. $5 + $3 shipping.
   - *Shimano Deore XT RD-M771 SGS (long cage) 9-speed rear derailleur*. 
   NOS in box with manual. $50 + 5 shipping.
   

Free shipping CONUS on any three items.











































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Re: [RBW] Re: Stuff for sale

[Anton Tutter]

Sure. Greyed items are sold. Everything else still available.


   - *Brooks Titanium Team Pro,* used once. SOLD.  I bought this new as an 
   indulgence because the fit of old classic Pros has worked well for me, but 
   I found the new one to just not work with my anatomy. It has exactly 55 dry 
   miles ridden on it. Comes with the original display card and tensioning 
   wrench.
   - *Exustar E-PR101 clipless road pedals*, 3-hole. $23 + $5 shipping. 
   Bought these about five years ago along with 2-hole Shimano pedals when 
   going clipless. Rode these less than 200 miles, and quickly ended up 
   settling into the 2-hole SPD mtb shoe camp.
   - *Lake road shoes, men's 46 wide*. Not sure of model. $35 + $8 
   shipping. 3-hole, with BOA lacing system. Less than 200 miles of use, in 
   really nice shape.
   - *Velo Orange 1" headset bell mount*. SOLD.
   - *Shimano Deore XT RD-M771 SGS (long cage) 9-speed rear derailleur*. 
   NOS in box with manual. SOLD.


On Saturday, November 7, 2015 at 1:30:04 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> A shy and ingratiating request? Could those bumping or updating their FS 
> lists leave attached the original list, or at least keep the description of 
> the items still remaining for sale? Very often I come across a FS post 
> late, am interested in a remaining item, but find I have to search my trash 
> file to find out what it is.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Stuff for sale

[Anton Tutter]

Quick update:

Shimano Deore XT RD SOLD.

Velo Orange bell mount SOLD.

Brooks Ti Pro saddle PENDING.


Shoes and pedals still available.

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[RBW] Velo Lumino polished taillights are back in stock!

[Anton Tutter]

The most popular Velo Lumino product had sold out a few weeks ago. I am 
happy to report that as of today we are restocked, and also have stock of 
all other Velo Lumino components and installation parts. A good chunk of VL 
customers are from these bike lists, so a big fat THANKS to all of you!

Anton

velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com

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[RBW] Wanted: dead or alive [Edelux or Supernova]

[Anton Tutter]

As part of Velo Lumino's ongoing R and product expansion, I am in search 
of a coupla damaged headlights for me to experiment with. They can be 
damaged in any way: dead, dim, crashed, cracked, water damaged, broken 
wires... whatever. Since these will likely get picked apart and prodded, 
they will likely never work again, so I'm hoping to score these on the 
cheap (cost of postage being ideal). Of course, price should be 
commensurate with condition, so I'd also consider paying more for working 
specimens. Looking specifically for Edelux I or II, and any flavor of 
Supernova E3 (single, triple, etc).

Contact off-list. Thanks!

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com

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[RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[Anton Tutter]

Anne, this is a common problem with B lights. It is caused by a poor 
terminal design.

It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the 
broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm 
happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com


On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that 
> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and 
> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the 
> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want 
> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny 
> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and 
> solder on a new connector? 
>
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson 
>
> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Lamp Holder No. 6 (aka Nitto Screw Mount LEFT)

[Anton Tutter]

The Sheldon nut solution is brilliant!!!

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com

On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:32:43 AM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> No problem with the M18, Zack. Do it like this:
>
> http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/77411364146/weve-been-selling-a-lot-of-these-schmidt-edelux

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Lamp Holder No. 6 (aka Nitto Screw Mount LEFT)

[Anton Tutter]

Does the Nitto M-18 have a fender support boss? If so, and you have a 
standard bottom-mount headlight, you can use a Velo Lumino headlight mount 
on the fender in front of the rack:




Otherwise, you can make your own bracket for the M-18 by attaching a draw 
bolt (like the ones that attach a fender to a stay) to one strut, and a 
home-made bracket to the draw bolt. You can make a very sturdy bracket from 
an old centerpull brake arm:




Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com



On Wednesday, October 7, 2015 at 8:41:49 PM UTC-4, Zach Duval wrote:

> I have a Nitto M-18, so no eyelets. I also usually run a front basket.

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[RBW] Re: Luxos U or Edelux?

[Anton Tutter]

As far as I know, the e-werk USB charger uses the same circuitry as the 
Luxos U, and saps energy from the hub even when not used to charge a 
device. The Sinewave Revolution is only $120, MUSA, and does not consume 
appreciable energy when not charging a device (it's also 100% waterproof-- 
submersible even!). David Dean, the owner of Sinewave Cycles and developer 
of his charger (full disclosure: he is also a personal friend), does 
long-distance touring, and needed a USB charger he could rely on. He was 
disappointed with all the other chargers on the market (Supernova Plug, B 
E-werk, etc) so made his own.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com


On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 12:37:25 AM UTC-4, Kelly wrote:
>
>
>
> FYI   the   The e-werk usb is affordable at 124 bucks.  However I've been 
> through two of these.   May be just the iPhone 6+ 
> I have two stand E-Werks  with cache batteries.  They work well if I'm 
> riding very slow under 10 mile per hour the cache battery will eventually 
> run out of juice.  However I did 10 days while running mapmyride on it 
> screen off .. and charged the phone while never losing charge in the 
> battery.  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Luxos U or Edelux?

[Anton Tutter]

I have a Luxos B and even the simpler B model has issues. Be very careful 
about snapping the spade connectors! I replaced the terminals on mine with 
wire+banana jacks. I don't like the seals at all on this beast, but so far 
water hasn't destroyed it.

I prefer the Edelux II. Lighter, water-resistant and good looking. I also 
like that you can buy a version without a switch or taillight output, just 
a single clean one-wire hookup. Works perfectly in conjunction with a 
taillight Velo Lumino stem switch. The Cyo Premium is a fantastic value and 
doesn't have as many reliability issues as the Luxos. All three have a 
fantastic light pattern.

The Luxos U USB charger is a poor design and saps energy from the hub even 
without anything plugged into it. The Sinewave Cycles charger is a superior 
design, sapping only 1.6mA of current from the hub when not charging a 
device (compared to 500mA max hub output), so it doesn't need to be 
"switched" off. It's essentially "off" by default, and I've confirmed this 
with controlled wheel spin-down tests.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com



On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 11:02:14 PM UTC-4, William deRosset wrote:
>
> Dear Zach,
>
> The early Luxos U lights had reliability issues. I have used the Luxos B 
> (same light but fewer features) and Edelux II, and I'd go for the Edelux II 
> or the Cyo II over the Luxos for the smaller size and equivalent 
> performance, but they're all wonderful lights. If I needed a USB power 
> source, I like the looks of the Sinewave products a lot, and Dave has 
> considered all of my concerns in his design. I'll a "Revolution" power 
> supply in concert with one of Anton's light switches over the next few 
> months on my Boulder Bicycle. If those items work out, they'll save me 
> hours in the machine shop for future projects (a mixed blessing--I like 
> making stuff, but if there is a better mouse-strap I'll be using it) 
> building my own stem-cap switch and soldering up a suitable power supply.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Will
> William M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
> On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 6:20:51 PM UTC-6, Zach Duval wrote:
>>
>> It'a getting to be that time of year that I can no longer make due 
>> without a full-powered light. I had the front wheel on my Hillborne built 
>> with a Shimano dyno hub, and I am now in a position to afford a light to 
>> complete the set-up. I know lots has been written about these two lights, 
>> but I'm interested in hearing some up-to-date reports.
>>
>> Which would you recommend?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: What is the best place to buy Pro 5 Vis 52 outer rings?

[Anton Tutter]

Not new, but you can sometimes get a great deal on used ones on the big 
auction block. Most of my TA chainring sets were sourced that way.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com
 

On Thursday, September 24, 2015 at 8:21:39 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I know the usual places; does anyone have a secret source where they are 
> cheap? Need not be single ring-type.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bizarrely on topic: AL absorption through skin

[Anton Tutter]

Kidneys: so good for you, we were made with two.



On Wednesday, September 23, 2015 at 10:57:48 AM UTC-4, Philip Williamson 
wrote:
>
>  I'm now much less concerned about ingesting aluminum, and more 
> appreciative of my kidneys.
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bizarrely on topic: AL absorption through skin

[Anton Tutter]

Looks like aluminum to me, but the amount is probably so little, and 
absorption rates through skin so small, compared to other sources that you 
are probably ingesting or absorbing into your bloodstream via other routes 
(e.g., smoking), that it's probably of no consequence.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com



On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 3:05:43 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I have 1/4" solid oak platformes from my Bullseye pedals, just unsure 
> what/how to mount them on a pedal. Today I forgot and took off without 
> shoes. Great ride. I took this after some LCG up decomposed granite, but 
> some of the discoloration can still be seen. I'm posting because poking a 
> hornet's nest is fun to see what happens after. Grin. Enjoy! 
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bizarrely on topic: AL absorption through skin

[Anton Tutter]

Good question-- this is a concern with antiperspirants since many contain 
aluminum. A research paper on this effect (on mice) determined that about 
0.01% of applied Al from antiperspirant is absorbed by the skin. Per 
application, that amounted to about 4 mcg, or about 2.5% of the amount of 
aluminum normally absorbed daily by the gut from food.
.
So are you absorbing Al from riding your pedals barefoot? Probably a tiny 
amount, and probably way less than the levels measured in the research 
study since you are probably rubbing off a tiny fraction of what was 
applied to the mice. I'm guessing you're rubbing less than picogram amounts 
of AL off your pedals with each ride.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com


On Tuesday, September 15, 2015 at 1:53:47 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Anyone know about if the skin (specifically soles of the feet) can absorb 
> aluminum via riding barefoot?
>
> Here’s what prompts the bizarre question: I’ve lost much of my summer to 
> many “hard” brain days, including increased brain fog and new symptoms of 
> mini-charlie-horses in the muscles near my bones as well as significant 
> muscle twitching. At the recommendation of an herbalist who though I may 
> have metal toxicity from my surgery last year, I began taking volcano dirt 
> and have since begun doing better than I have since early spring. I’ve 
> shifted to always wearing shoes when riding so I don’t risk messing things 
> up, but there is a whole lot of corollary and very difficult to determine 
> causal with all this (as is always the case). Hence, my question. Not 
> meaning to delve into if/to what extent this is all whacky. Please respond 
> off list if you feel inclined. Grin. I’m just wondering what the collective 
> knowledge of this august body knows about the intersection of biology and 
> metallurgy. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bizarrely on topic: AL absorption through skin

[Anton Tutter]

When your feet become dark grey after riding, I wonder how much of that is 
aluminum oxide (dark gray/black) and how much is dirt.  If you rode on 
plastic pedals would your feet still get the same dark gray?

It would be interesting to know if metalworkers who work with aluminum 
develop any neurological problems as a result of handling aluminum year 
after year. I know that whenever I work with aluminum fenders, my hands get 
black with aluminum oxide. I'm guessing that the absorbtion ends up being 
very low, perhaps less than normal diet, but who really knows?

Anton, who works in biology and has fun with aluminum



On Tuesday, September 15, 2015 at 3:13:21 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Anton, thank you. Yes, the anti-persperant was one of my questions. After 
> a ride, my forefeet are a dark grey and the aluminum pedals are definately 
> rubbed smoother on the barefoot side vs. the spiked side. The logic of it 
> seems to point to it not being an issue, but the price of it being an issue 
> is more extreme.
>
> For those responding about the other dangers of going barefoot -- thank 
> you for your concern! In the years I've gone barefoot the concerns listed 
> are non-factors with the exception of chemical or parasite exposure. 
> Chemical because way too much gets sprayed with all kinds of junk, and 
> parasite could potentially be an issue in a different geographic area. Of 
> course, the intent of this thread was not to be a critique of going 
> barefoot. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, September 15, 2015 at 11:53:47 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Anyone know about if the skin (specifically soles of the feet) can absorb 
>> aluminum via riding barefoot?
>>
>> Here’s what prompts the bizarre question: I’ve lost much of my summer to 
>> many “hard” brain days, including increased brain fog and new symptoms of 
>> mini-charlie-horses in the muscles near my bones as well as significant 
>> muscle twitching. At the recommendation of an herbalist who though I may 
>> have metal toxicity from my surgery last year, I began taking volcano dirt 
>> and have since begun doing better than I have since early spring. I’ve 
>> shifted to always wearing shoes when riding so I don’t risk messing things 
>> up, but there is a whole lot of corollary and very difficult to determine 
>> causal with all this (as is always the case). Hence, my question. Not 
>> meaning to delve into if/to what extent this is all whacky. Please respond 
>> off list if you feel inclined. Grin. I’m just wondering what the collective 
>> knowledge of this august body knows about the intersection of biology and 
>> metallurgy. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
>> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Big Front Rack + Front Fender

[Anton Tutter]

There's no true elegant fix for this since your rack doesn't have a 
dedicated braze-on mount for the fender, but you can improve on the zip-tie 
fix.  You can get a small nylon R-clamp from your local hardware store and 
attach it to the rack cross-bar. Use a spacer and bolt for the R-clip 
that's long enough to reach and thread through the fender. Basically like 
this example, securing a fender to a bridge without a boss on it:




Anton

velolumino.com

somervillebikes.wordpress.com
  

On Thursday, September 10, 2015 at 12:59:36 PM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>
> Hi all, i've got some Honjo Fenders waiting to be swapped out on my 
> Hillborne.  Currently i'm running VO fenders with a Nitto BFR (the big rack 
> on the little one).  These racks do not have a boss on the underside to 
> secure a fender.  Has anyone come up with a creative way to secure this? 
>  At the moment i have a ziptie on the rack crossbar going through a daruma 
> bolted (on the topside of the fender).  it works but not all that elegant!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Judder on the Hunqa

[Anton Tutter]

Are you using the stock Tektro pads? I found I had really bad brake judder 
with Tektro CR720 cantis and Koolstop Salmon pads, but when I swapped back 
in the stock Tektro pads, the problem went away.

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com

On Sunday, September 6, 2015 at 12:23:02 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> I have Tektro cantilever brakes on my 58cm Hunq. The brake judder, even at 
> low to moderate speed, is so violent that the front wheel skips off the 
> ground. I would be afraid to do a fast descent. I hardly ever ride the bike 
> and that is one of the reasons why. What should I do?

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[RBW] Re: So why no Titanium Wald basket?

[Anton Tutter]

Clearly you can see the stress points from the way it was mounted. These 
wire baskets really are easy to break.  I have one on my Bike Friday and I 
bang it on my fence walking it out from my yard every day.  Just from 
banging it against the wood post the wire is getting mangled.  The best way 
to support these is with a reinforcement plate underneath, the same size as 
the basket's footprint.

A Ti Wald would be awesome!

Anton
velolumino.com
somervillebikes.wordpress.com



On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 5:19:31 PM UTC-4, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> This being the third one I've wrecked. I'm wondering if theres a better 
> option.
>
> Maybe the folks here that work with Titanium can tell me.
>
> Why no Titanium Wald Basket? Price? Weird welds? TOO light?
>
> Picture proved that nothing last.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/shares/79c07y
>
> Manny "Lets break everything" Acosta
>

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[RBW] Re: Parts cleanout sale

[Anton Tutter]

More stuff gone, here's what's still left:
 

>
> - VO +/-6deg threadless stem, 110mm, 1-1/18" steerer, 25.4mm clamp. New. 
> Mounted but never ridden. $25
>
> - VO Canti brake refills (BR-0030), set for front or rear. New. $3
>
> - SRAM Rival 2014 front road derailleur, for braze-on mount. New. $20
>
> - 28.6 to braze-on FD adaptor. New. $10
>
> - Shimano baseball cap. New. $10
>

And another item to add to the list:

- SRAM X7 mtn double crankset, 170mm, w/42-28T rings.  NEW. $80

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[RBW] Re: Parts cleanout sale

[Anton Tutter]

All the lights sold pretty quickly. That leaves the following items still 
available:


My semi-annual parts cleanout sale.  $5 shipping CONUS on each item, or buy 
> three items and get free shipping CONUS. Reply off-list if interested.
>
> Photos of everything: 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0Bim8tw3tRGfnIyMUlrMi1uNUpaQkY4S3VsWHFwdnA1Sk0zNlFDU3BaQ0h4bG5DWFlRYk0=sharing
>
>
> - Custom headlight bracket for mounting a headlight to a front rack. 
> Hand-filed from a Weinmann brake arm. With wire guides on the backside. $10
>
> - VO +/-6deg threadless stem, 110mm, 1-1/18" steerer, 25.4mm clamp. New. 
> Mounted but never ridden. $25
>
> - VO Canti brake refills (BR-0030), set for front or rear. New. $3
>
> - SRAM Rival 2014 front road derailleur, for braze-on mount. New. $20
>
> - 28.6 to braze-on FD adaptor. New. $10
>
> - Cane Creek "100 Classic" 1" threadless headset. Used, complete, 
> excellent. $60
>
> - Shimano baseball cap. New. $10
>
> - Shimano bar-end shifter pods, pair. PODS ONLY. Used, good shape. $25
>

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[RBW] Parts cleanout sale

[Anton Tutter]

My semi-annual parts cleanout sale.  $5 shipping CONUS on each item, or buy 
three items and get free shipping CONUS. Reply off-list if interested.

Photos of 
everything: 
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B0Bim8tw3tRGfnIyMUlrMi1uNUpaQkY4S3VsWHFwdnA1Sk0zNlFDU3BaQ0h4bG5DWFlRYk0usp=sharing


- Spanninga Pixeo dynamo taillight with standlight, silver painted housing. 
Used, excellent. $11

- Spanninga Pixeo dynamo taillight with standlight, black housing. Used, 
excellent. $11

- Busch  Muller Secula Plus dynamo taillight with standlight. New. Their 
new top of the line taillight with really cool diffuser ring. $24

- Busch  Muller IQ Cyo N (farfield) Plus dynamo headlight with standlight. 
Some scratches on lens cover, but otherwise fine. Velo Lumino customized 
and rewired for rear wire exit and custom Velo Lumino banana plugs. $45 
(will include mating plugs and wire for hookup)

- Custom headlight bracket for mounting a headlight to a front rack. 
Hand-filed from a Weinmann brake arm. With wire guides on the backside. $10

- VO +/-6deg threadless stem, 110mm, 1-1/18 steerer, 25.4mm clamp. New. 
Mounted but never ridden. $25

- VO Canti brake refills (BR-0030), set for front or rear. New. $3

- SRAM Rival 2014 front road derailleur, for braze-on mount. New. $20

- 28.6 to braze-on FD adaptor. New. $10

- Cane Creek 100 Classic 1 threadless headset. Used, complete, 
excellent. $60

- Shimano baseball cap. New. $10

- Shimano bar-end shifter pods, pair. PODS ONLY. Used, good shape. $25

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[RBW] Re: Fenders in Summer

[Anton Tutter]

Well put!



On Thursday, July 30, 2015 at 12:01:58 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:

 One needs fenders just to ride through this thread!

 John


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