[RBW] Re: WTB - QB / SO 56

[Dave Johnston]

Did you know Riv is working on a Roaduno for 2021? 
https://www.rivbike.com/products/roaduno-2021?_pos=2&_sid=2cf69cddb&_ss=r

On Saturday, January 2, 2021 at 9:02:25 PM UTC-5 J L wrote:

> Hello RBW,
>
> Anyone have a spare 56cm quick beam or simple one floating ‘round? I would 
> like to get back into some fixed gear riding. 
>
> Let me know offlist if possible. Thanks
>
> Jason
> SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] Stack & Reach for Joe Appaloosa & Atlantis

[Dave Johnston]

I don't know if every model is wrong on Bike insights but when they skip 
the 20mm head-tube extension in the calculated values, the Stack would 
actually be 19mm higher and the reach 6mm Less.

On Friday, December 18, 2020 at 9:13:12 PM UTC-5 Dave Johnston wrote:

> I have found bikeinsights to be wrong on both Stack and Reach for 
> Rivendell bikes. They don't take into account the head-tube extension built 
> into Riv's lugs. 
>
> -Dave J
> On Friday, December 18, 2020 at 8:53:13 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Whoops, sorry about that! Here are the frames you selected:
>> White outline: 57 Appaloosa (2020)
>> Black outline: 55 Atlantis (2019)
>>
>>
>> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5e308654dcfe4e001737cc7d%2C5e1faf637f17da00170c6e27
>>  
>> <https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5e308654dcfe4e001737cc7d,5e1faf637f17da00170c6e27>
>>
>> Welcome to the list, Johnny!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 18, 2020, at 3:16 PM, Den John  wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Matthew, that is incredibly helpful.
>>
>> Johnny
>>
>> On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 at 23:52, Matthew Williams  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Johnny,
>>>
>>> Here's a site for comparing frames:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5b8578f548f3a30004789b07,5ad1288a9127aa0014fa1d9c=,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Dec 17, 2020, at 3:55 AM, Den John  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> My name is Johnny. I live in Belgium and I'm Riv Curious. I post from 
>>> time to time on the iBOB group.
>>>
>>> I've been obsessed with the idea of owning a Riv for a while. I'm 
>>> particularly interested in the Atlantis and Appaloosa. 
>>>
>>> Could anyone tell me the stack & reach numbers for a 55cm Atlantis and a 
>>> 57cm Appaloosa (current models)? Riv doesn't list S on their geometry 
>>> chart.
>>>
>>> An image of the measurements I need is attached.
>>>
>>> I'd like to use wide drop bars, so stack & reach are quite important to 
>>> know.
>>>
>>> If anyone has any comments on the current long chainstay versions of 
>>> these bikes, I'd also be interested to hear. This seems to be the most 
>>> distinctive aspect, and the only way to get something like this in the EU 
>>> would be to go custom. I do have a bakfiets,
>>> and the long wheelbase on that makes for a very nice ride.
>>>
>>> I suppose now is not really the best time to think about importing a 
>>> bike from the US to Europe, but never mind :-)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Johnny in Belgium
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f6f693ac-a815-4ff9-9016-b9147686bcc0n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/448E7B03-9DC4-41A5-8DF0-712D65E4EBDD%40gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CA%2B%3D4xcyK-ZhZXUAs%3DV_v6e90_gBUKareig8pgZPKTuqC51hOaQ%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Stack & Reach for Joe Appaloosa & Atlantis

[Dave Johnston]

I have found bikeinsights to be wrong on both Stack and Reach for Rivendell 
bikes. They don't take into account the head-tube extension built into 
Riv's lugs. 

-Dave J
On Friday, December 18, 2020 at 8:53:13 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Whoops, sorry about that! Here are the frames you selected:
> White outline: 57 Appaloosa (2020)
> Black outline: 55 Atlantis (2019)
>
>
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5e308654dcfe4e001737cc7d%2C5e1faf637f17da00170c6e27
>  
> 
>
> Welcome to the list, Johnny!
>
>
>
> On Dec 18, 2020, at 3:16 PM, Den John  wrote:
>
> Thanks Matthew, that is incredibly helpful.
>
> Johnny
>
> On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 at 23:52, Matthew Williams  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Johnny,
>>
>> Here's a site for comparing frames:
>>
>>
>> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5b8578f548f3a30004789b07,5ad1288a9127aa0014fa1d9c=,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 17, 2020, at 3:55 AM, Den John  wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> My name is Johnny. I live in Belgium and I'm Riv Curious. I post from 
>> time to time on the iBOB group.
>>
>> I've been obsessed with the idea of owning a Riv for a while. I'm 
>> particularly interested in the Atlantis and Appaloosa. 
>>
>> Could anyone tell me the stack & reach numbers for a 55cm Atlantis and a 
>> 57cm Appaloosa (current models)? Riv doesn't list S on their geometry 
>> chart.
>>
>> An image of the measurements I need is attached.
>>
>> I'd like to use wide drop bars, so stack & reach are quite important to 
>> know.
>>
>> If anyone has any comments on the current long chainstay versions of 
>> these bikes, I'd also be interested to hear. This seems to be the most 
>> distinctive aspect, and the only way to get something like this in the EU 
>> would be to go custom. I do have a bakfiets,
>> and the long wheelbase on that makes for a very nice ride.
>>
>> I suppose now is not really the best time to think about importing a bike 
>> from the US to Europe, but never mind :-)
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Johnny in Belgium
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Stem - 90mm/26.0mm - Technomic Deluxe or Tallux

[Dave Johnston]

I sent a private mail, but if you have any stem trades you might want to 
list what you have. I would also trade for a Dirt Drop in 8 or 10, as well. 

-Dave J

On Saturday, September 19, 2020 at 12:47:39 PM UTC-4, David B wrote:
>
> Need a different stem length for my Redwood.
>
> Looking for:
>
>- Nitto Technomic Deluxe (190mm quill) or Tallux (225mm quill)
>- 90mm extension (Nitto measures this center-center on the middle line 
>of the extension, not on the top)
>- 26.0mm clamp
>
> Preference is for the Technomic Deluxe version rather than Tallux as I 
> don't need the full height that the Tallux affords.
> Very good condition to new condition preferred.
> Contact offlist if you have one to sell - photo would be great - and a 
> price shipped to 60131.
> If you can't contact offlist in the new format, you can send a message 
> through my webshop: https://treetop.bigcartel.com/contact
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Any flare for ankle clearance on Rivendell's Silver cranks?

[Dave Johnston]

I have the same problem. They are pretty similar to the Sugino XD, but a 
bit less clearance. The best I know of is the 90s XTR M900 crank, but they 
are getting hard to find. I have a used set for sale in 175mm if that's 
your length. In 94/58 the old XT and LX from that era are also really nice, 
I build them up as 22-36-46 triples for all-road usage. I have some of 
those in various condition I could sell.

-Dave J

On Tuesday, September 1, 2020 at 5:31:38 AM UTC-4, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me if, and if so how much the arms on the Silver cranks 
> flare out to provide additional ankle clearance. i.e. Is the pedal end of 
> the crank further from the centerline of the bike than the BB end. I ride 
> with fairly pronounced toes out / heels in stance, and with normal spindle 
> length pedals, I need the crank to provide around 10mm additional clearance 
> to prevent the inside of my ankle or shoe heel from brushing against the 
> crank on each revolution. The Sugino XD that I have on one bike give me 
> about the right amount of additional clearance, but I'm not fond of the 
> hidden chainring bolt behind the crank.
>
> Any other 110/74 cranks that match what I'm after?
>
> Nick
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Is this replacement bolt safe to replace YTS A2-70?

[Dave Johnston]

Stainless steel is about the weakest bolt you can get. A rusty grade 8.8 
(typical at hardware store) can be stronger than a shiny stainless. Also 
there are counterfeit bolts coming out of China. (yes its actually a thing) 
I bet Taiwan bike manufactures aren't all that careful about their bolts. 
Now having said that I have used stainless from Ace hardware without a 
problem, maybe you just got a defective or counterfeit bolt? They usually 
break when you install not when you are riding so you will probably be OK.

If you want strong go with this:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_cap_Zinc_plated_class_12.9_alloy_steel_6mm_x_1.0mm.aspx

Strength charts:
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

-Dave J

On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 2:25:33 PM UTC-4, Roberta wrote:
>
>
> I snapped the seat post collar (I hope that's what it's called) bolt on my 
> Joe Appaloosa while tightening it,  got a replacement from a local LBS but 
> not sure it's safe.  I recall a few months ago someone had something 
> similar, but I don't remember the specifics.
>
> Bolt that snapped is marked YTS A2-70, the bottom broken bolt in the pic. 
>   The new one is unmarked and is the top bolt, assuming the pics don't 
> rotate.  It's a bit more rounder looking.  
>
> Can I use it temporarily or permanently, or just hold out until I get the 
> exact match?   Learning from this group that one bike is never enough :) , 
> I do have an AHH, so I won't be without a bike.
>
> I never thought that I would have enough strength to do this!  Just this 
> morning, I got the saddle height, tilt, setback just right!  That is why I 
> was tightening it.
>
> Thanks, Roberta
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kickstands and Clems

[Dave Johnston]

A few years back there reports of the weight of the double kick stand 
ripping the Kickstand plate off of Rivendell bicycles, so you should 
actually mount it with the long bolt and chainstay sandwich, not the shorty 
bolt directly to the plate. I suspect part of the problem may have been 
people sitting on the bike with the kickstand down, but Riv stopped selling 
them after reports of frame damage.

-Dave

On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 10:16:46 AM UTC-4, Alex K wrote:
>
> Just got my Clem L rolling and I'm pretty smitten.  The handling on curves 
> and general comfort level are fairly astounding.  I do have a Nitto Campee 
> 34F with a hardware-less Wald 157 basket mounted on the front for larger 
> loads (laundry, pizza, etc.). What I'm wondering here is if anyone has any 
> experience with the double kickstand on a heavier/loaded bike.  I didn't 
> love the single Pletscher kickstand that came with the bike and am 
> considering a Pletscher or Velo Orange double stand.  Any thoughts?  Thanks 
> for reading.  
> Alex
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 100/135 wheelset or 135mm rear wheel, light to medium duty for Toyo Atlantis

[Dave Johnston]

Should probably specify 700c or 26"

-Dave

On Sunday, August 23, 2020 at 1:44:09 PM UTC-4, Jay P wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I've been watching for awhile but none have been posted recently so...
>
> Anyone have a 135mm rear wheel   OR   wheelset, Shimano 8/9spd
>
> Ideally something pretty nice (Phil hub?  Lesnik-built?)
>
> I have a heavy duty wheelset for my Atlantis --- and would love to try it 
> with a lighter duty set + 44mm compass tires I have on the shelf.
>
> Please be in touch if you have something you might like to part with !
>
> Jay P. 
> Berkeley, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: A not-so-riv-ish Riv

[Dave Johnston]

Yes, that bike looks way too non-Rivendell, and it also looks just my size 
so you should unload it to me now for cheap! I will switch the ergo for 
barcons though. :p

Seriously though that is about as classic rivendell as can you can get. Any 
indexing that may be happening is made up for by mix and matching  
manufacturers to get what you need.

-Dave J

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[RBW] Re: Clems, racks and P-clamps

[Dave Johnston]

OTOH I agree with Carl that if the P clamps aren't really supporting 
weight, but just keeping the rack from rotating forward or back you are 
probably OK with using the P-clamps. 

-Dave

On Friday, August 21, 2020 at 10:42:37 AM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> There is a Nitto rack that attaches to the Canti brake studs, so that may 
> be an option, I don't know the model. Lots of Riv builds out of Blue Lug 
> are using the Pass and Stow rack which attaches at the fork dropout mounts 
> and the fork Crown.
>
> https://www.passandstowracks.com
>
> On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 10:14:14 AM UTC-4, Alex K wrote:
>>
>> Hey all.  Trying to find the perfect setup for my Clem L.  I have a Nitto 
>> Campee 34F and a Wald 157 basket currently mounted to my new Clementine.  I 
>> love it all, but have been alerted that perhaps the p-clamps aren’t best 
>> suited for long-term use.  Thoughts?  Advicc? Alternatives?  I really love 
>> the 157 for laundry and pizza deliveries.  But I’m open to trying a 
>> different rack or mounting setup...
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Clems, racks and P-clamps

[Dave Johnston]

There is a Nitto rack that attaches to the Canti brake studs, so that may 
be an option, I don't know the model. Lots of Riv builds out of Blue Lug 
are using the Pass and Stow rack which attaches at the fork dropout mounts 
and the fork Crown.

https://www.passandstowracks.com

On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 10:14:14 AM UTC-4, Alex K wrote:
>
> Hey all.  Trying to find the perfect setup for my Clem L.  I have a Nitto 
> Campee 34F and a Wald 157 basket currently mounted to my new Clementine.  I 
> love it all, but have been alerted that perhaps the p-clamps aren’t best 
> suited for long-term use.  Thoughts?  Advicc? Alternatives?  I really love 
> the 157 for laundry and pizza deliveries.  But I’m open to trying a 
> different rack or mounting setup...
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Has a Question - Bottom Bracket Spindle Length

[Dave Johnston]

For the Sugino XD2 I've used 110mm on an Atlantis and 107 on a 130mm rear 
spaced roadbike. 110 or 113 on a Mtn Bike. I believe the Rivendell Silver 
has the same requirements.

-Dave J

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020 at 2:50:14 AM UTC-4, Hetchins52 wrote:
>
> A question about bottom brackets for the Susie Longbolts:
>
> I got a Tange LN-3922 73 x 127 bottom bracket cartridge for my Susie. I 
> wasn’t thoroughly reading the comments that mentioned this BB was 
> recommended ... for a Rivendell Silver crank. However, I’m using an older 
> SR XD2 “wide x low” 40 — 26 crankset (with chain guard). The 127 turns out 
> to be way too wide for a good chain line with the SR.
>
> A 122mm BB (American Classic Sealed w/adjustable chainline) that I tried 
> still puts the crank arms about 15mm (L) to 17mm (R) away from the chain 
> stays. 
> The 26 tooth inner has about 10mm clearance to the right chain stay. Tread 
> or “Q” factor is about 179mm.
> I’m thinking I need the Tange 118 cartridge or the 115.5.
>
> https://www.benscycle.com/tange-ln-3922-bottom-bracket/bottom_bracket_tange-seiki_ln-3922_447/product
>
> Anyone have experience with using the XD2 crankset on the new Susie (or 
> Gus)? My frame is a medium (53).
> What bottom bracket did you use?
>
> Thanks,
> David Lipsky
> Berkeley, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: (Portland, time-sensitive) 650b 42cm

[Dave Johnston]

I watched Russ Path Less Pedaled Portland bike shop tour yesterday and a 
couple shops seemed to carry Rene Herse tires. You could try Norther Cycles 
they had a wall of ReneHerse/compass tires (11:32 in video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KMuWfZIDCU

Riv content: he visits Rivelo in part 2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTH9eMn4BFM
-Dave J

On Monday, August 17, 2020 at 11:37:28 AM UTC-4, Sean Kline wrote:
>
> Long shot appeal: my partner and I drove to Portland to visit family and 
> camp near Mt Hood. Sadly, the 42cm (RH Babyshoe Pass) front tire on my 
> partner’s Cheviut rubbed/melted on the car rack on the way up from the Bay 
> Area. We only have a couple days in Portland. 
>
> If you’re in Portland and have a used (or new) single or pair of 650b 
> Babyshoe Pass tires (ideally, tan sidewalls) you’re willing to sell, I’d 
> love to hear from you. Open to other 42cm 650b tires too. 
>
> Thanks! 
> Sean

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[RBW] Re: Converting a Legolas from threadless to threaded/quill

[Dave Johnston]

Is the steerer 1", or are you going to have to source a 1 1/8" quill stem?
If it is 1", You could get one of these Tange headsets that locks the 
Threadless headset in place and then allows you to use a quill. I would not 
cut any off the steerer when you do this in case you ever want to go back, 
definitely leave enough for a stem in case you ever want to sell the frame 
and fork.
http://m.tangeseiki.com/jm/products/headset/standard/standard-threadless/standard-threadless-1/73-technoglide-quill.html

A few people including myself had the 1" Rawland Stag fork threaded. It's 
rougher than factory threads but it works.

-Dave J

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 8:16:32 AM UTC-4, Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
> This is a great bike, and not so easily found; and with the help of a 
> local friend from this list, the cockpit fits me well at the very limit of 
> spacers.  The steerer was cut too short to my liking by the previous owner, 
> and I am frustrated that the stem is not adjustable, a feature I enjoy with 
> quill stems.  I think the frame was made by Mark Nobilette.  Has anyone 
> converted a threadless steerer to threaded?  What do you think?  
> Appreciative, as ever, of this community.   --Tom in Miami 
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

[Dave Johnston]

How much lighter is a Roadeo? My 56cm Ram was Frame=4.8lb, fork = 1.7lb on 
my fishing scale.

-Dave J

On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 3:33:47 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>
> John,
>
> The Roadeo frame is much lighter than the Ram's. Definitely not equivalent.
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 2:28:05 PM UTC-4, Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>>
>> Not being familiar with the Rambouillet, I went searching for info.  One 
>> reviewer thought the Rambo was the early equivalent of today’s Roadeo.  Do 
>> you think this is the case?
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 18, 2020 at 5:16 AM Surlyprof  wrote:
>>
>>> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/pb0nSlJHVn0
>>>
>>> Would you fit a 60 Rambouillet?  John’s looks like a great deal.
>>>
>>> John
>>> Niles, CA
>>>
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>>

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[RBW] Re: Chauncey Matthews Riv-cloned Road Bike for Road, take 2

[Dave Johnston]

Did you try riding it as it was with the 41mm Pasela?

-Dave

On Wednesday, July 22, 2020 at 5:28:59 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Chauncey picked up the new bike this (actually, yesterday) morning to 
> re-do the fork and reinforce the rear rack. A 41 mm Pasela has ample room 
> under the 45 mm fender in the rear, but while it fits under the fender in 
> front, there is only about 5 mm of clearance, so he will lengthen the fork 
> legs to gain an additional 10 mm, and swap out the fork-crown fender mount 
> with projecting boss with another that puts the threaded boss inside the 
> steerer, so that the fender can be butted up tight against the underside of 
> the crown. That should gain at least 3 mm. He said he can add more rake to 
> the fork to preserve the wonderful (Riv-like, in fact, since it's Riv 
> clone) handling.
>
> Grant would not have built me a custom with the features I wanted -- 42s 
> with fenders, narrow Q, and 118 mm OL rear spacing, with braze-ones for 
> Sturmey Archer trigger shifter, extra-long but thin plate dropouts 
> (Chauncey cut his own), and internal light wire routing, with custom f and 
> r racks. So I consider this a non-Riv tribute to Riv.
>
> Once I get the bike back, I'll look into buying some RH Naches Pass tires.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[Dave Johnston]

oops forgot the Big Ben pic:

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Re: [RBW] Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Dave Johnston]

The Sam's are supposed to arrive in "September-ish", so if they do the full 
review later in Aug or Sept it will be timely enough as far as Riv is 
concerned. Lately some of the more popular sizes and colors have sold out 
before the frames even arrived, so I'm not sure how much advertising they 
need.

-Dave J


On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 7:52:42 AM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> After watching this video, I jumped over to the Riv site to see what the 
> current spec is on the Sam... and it’s not even on the site. No preorder 
> info or anything. Seems like an opportunity missed.

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[RBW] Re: Brake levers for setting up Canti front and V for rear wheel

[Dave Johnston]

I used those forte (tektro) dual pull position levers for awhile with canti 
brakes and found they sucked. Even in the short pull mode they pulled too 
much cable for cantis so the offered a really stiff feel with very little 
modulation.

I can't see any reason to run V brakes in the rear unless there is some 
funky cable routing like on a Mixte, and in that case use V brakes front 
and rear.

Also what cable housing are you using? If you want a  little more 
modulation don't use "compressionless" housing.
I really like Avid Speed dial levers for V-brakes as you can adjust the 
pull with a knob to the feel you prefer.

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about my Blériot

[Dave Johnston]

I love Le Belriot! In lots of ways its my favorite bike. At the very least 
its the baseline bike I compare all others too.

-Dave J

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:48:51 AM UTC-4, aaron.e.russell wrote:
>
> Hey there, long-time lurker here. I started a blog about my randonneuring 
> activity late last year, and decided to write a post centered on the 
> Rivendell Blériot that I bought on eBay from a seller in Arizona back in 
> 2009 and have been riding ever since. Thought I'd share it with this list 
> in case anyone wants to check it out. Also if anyone on here happens to 
> have been the original seller, the bike sure worked out great! (The post 
> includes the text of the original listing.)
>
> https://rando12051.com/bleriot/
>
> Cheers, Aaron
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa & Atlantis Toe Overlap

[Dave Johnston]

Bike Insights will help you visualize and it calculates the distance from 
the pedal spindle to the tire. You can change tire size with the little 
wrench tool. Note: I have found mistakes in the Rivendell data for stack, 
reach and standover, so be wary.

This link should be a 55cm Hilsen vs a 54cm Appaloosa, but play with the 
search for different sizes and model years.
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5a1e69902a0c030014708cac,5e308654dcfe4e001737cc7c

-Dave

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 8:01:37 AM UTC-4, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
>
> Hello All. 
>
> Does anyone have toe overlap issues on a Joe Appaloosa with fat 50-ish 
> tires and fenders?
> How about the first run MIT 650B Atlantis?
>
> I have big Sneakers (13) but am not terribly tall (5’11) and find overlap 
> to be an issue on my 700c Homer with 40c tires and fenders. The tips of all 
> my sneakers have run marks and I find myself hitting the fenders now 
> frequently. So am thinking about switching things around and trying to hunt 
> up a different model frame to use as a fast townie. 
>
> I do ride on the balls of my feet, not my heels.  
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: This is second time this happened and I am seriously annoyed. And I would like help to see this doesn't happen again.

[Dave Johnston]

25.4 posts are reasonable common especially in suspension posts like the 
cane creek, then you get a shim for whatever you need.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cane-Creek-Seatpost-shim-25-4-to-26-8mm/372486956315?epid=4012052847=item56b9f3e51b:g:FmMAAOSwWp9c7ra~

-Dave

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 9:07:28 PM UTC-4, Ann L wrote:
>
> So I am minding my own business, out for my evening ride on my Appaloosa, 
> when the saddle came off.  I didn't crash but it was not fun.  The bolt was 
> completely sheared off.  But the weird thing is, the same thing happened to 
> me a year ago.  Any idea as to why this keeps happening?  The saddle is a 
> Brooks 67.
>

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[RBW] Re: What size seatpost for new Appaloosa and Atlantis

[Dave Johnston]

26.8, but they come shipped with a Kalloy seapost. I found the post it 
shipped with fit best and a different identical looking 26.8 Kalloy was so 
loose it could rattle. A Nitto was better than that but still loose enough 
to fall right in all the way to the saddle by gravity alone, but it seemed 
to tighten down securely.

-Dave

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 10:19:40 AM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> 27.2 or 26.8? 

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[RBW] Re: A different Mustache/Albastache set-up?

[Dave Johnston]

I have seen pictures of the reverse style levers stuck in the ends of the 
bar but it looks awkward, but doesn't take up had real estate.

The drop portion isn't as long as an Albatross so it might be cramped with 
a lever clamped on, but the new Albastache does have more room than the old 
Moustache.

Velo orange makes a lever compatible with both road (23.8mm) and with shims 
for MTB/city sized (22.2mm) handlebars.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-levers/products/grand-cru-brake-levers

You could also use interrupter levers, by themselves if you find the kind 
where the cable end sits nicely where the housing usually goes.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-levers/products/tektro-rl720-cross-levers-all-silver

Or you can get a similar effect with a Billie bar and a longer stem.

-Dave J



On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 10:14:34 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> When I see a Mustache or Albastache bar installed it almost always has 
> drop-bar brake levers installed sideways at the bends and is completely 
> wrapped like a drop bar.  When I see an Albatross or other typical upright 
> bar installed it almost almost always has the city-type brake levers 
> installed in a typical orientation toward the ends of the bar and has some 
> type of grip but is bare other than that.  
>
> I don't recall ever seeing a Mustache or Albastache bar set up like an 
> Albatross bar, with city brake levers and grips installed in typical 
> upright-bar fashion.  Is anyone aware of a reason that wouldn't work well? 
>  I'm tempted to try it but thought I'd ask here first in case there's a 
> reason that I simply don't see.  Thanks.
>
> Dave
> Boston/Indy 
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Redwood 1500

[Dave Johnston]

about a foot too big for me but cool nonetheless.
https://bellingham.craigslist.org/bik/d/bellingham-rivendell-redwood-dropped/7153843392.html


On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 3:35:55 PM UTC-4, bo richardson wrote:
>
> I am helping a friend sell her Redwood. Her brother bought it and then 
> found a 68 Atlantis frame
> and built that up and sold the Redwood to his sister Kim. She upgraded the 
> bike quite a bit, including a fresh drivetrain
> including shifters,  Then she found a Rambouillet 66,root beer color and 
> bought that.
>
> The Redwood is a very nice bicycle and needs to be paroled from the dark 
> crowded garage.
> Paint is naybe9/10. included is a dark green Brooks and the pedals.
> Lots of Nitto
> check out the ad on craigslist Bellingham/ Seattle.
> If those photos interest you enough I can email better ones.
> Kim wants1500$ including everything, as it sits.
> my phone is dead, but my email works.
> thanks for your interest
> Bo Richardson
> borussky@gmail
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: XO-1 or Roadini

[Dave Johnston]

I like my X0-3, but honestly the new bikes are more refined and easier to 
size. If I had one I'd keep it but I wouldn't pay collectors prices for 
one.  

Currently the Sam Hillborne is most like the 93 X0-1 (cantis, max 47mm 
tire) and the A Homer Hilsen most like the 92 XO-1 (sidepulls, max ~42mm 
tire). 

-Dave

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 10:47:40 AM UTC-4, Zack Medow wrote:
>
> RBW Owners Bunch I need your help!
>
> I'm looking to venture into the world of my first Rivendell/Bridgestone. 
>
> I'm at an impasse right now. I'm thinking of putting in an order for a 
> Roadini and set it up with the new Shikoro 38mm tires Riv is carrying. But 
> there's also a mint condition XO-1 right now on eBay in my size. 
>
> I'm going to be using this bike for road and city riding, maybe some very 
> light grav grav. I have a Jones for a trail bike, so that's not really a 
> concern. My goal is to find a supple steel bike that fits a wider tire 
> without resorting to a disc break and the stiff fork that comes with it. 
>
> Which one would you go for?? Is this a silly comparison?? 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 50cm Atlantis. 650b

[Dave Johnston]

Last year the 50cm Atlantis was a 26" bike as we discussed earlier, so I'm 
not sure how many 650b versions are actually out there in the wild.

The posted geometry pages haven't been updated since 2019 so I'm not even 
sure what all has changed.
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/geometry

Otherwise without further info I would expect the 51cm Appaloosa and 50cm 
Atlantis to ride very similar, with the Atlantis having one extra cm of 
stand over clearance, and 1cm less stack and about the same reach, but it 
is quite possible Grant made the 2020 Atlantis and 2021 Appaloosa longer in 
the top tube, every year the top tubes and chain-stays seem to get longer.

-Dave



On Sunday, July 12, 2020 at 10:03:51 AM UTC-4, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I find it hard to believe there is nobody within 2 hours of Springfield MA 
> with a 650b 50cm Atlantis.  It would be such a great help to see and 
> standover one.  

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[RBW] Re: 650b new Rivendell models (to me)

[Dave Johnston]

If you are looking for plush and comfort you should seriously consider 
going with a bigger tire. 48mm with fenders will work really well on the 
Appaloosa or MIT Atlantis.

The current best tire in this category is the Rene Herse Switchback Hill. 
In whatever durability you feel most appropriate. Ultralight, Regular, 
Endurance for your terrain. For less money WTB and SOMA also make good 
tires in 650b x 47ish.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/tires/650b/650bx48-switchback-hill/

-Dave

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[RBW] Re: 559 X 42-46 mm tires -- suggestions?

[Dave Johnston]

I currently use Pasela 1.75 (non-Kevlar belt) on an X0-3 and Nachez Pass EL 
on an Atlantis and I like them both. They both measure 41mm wide on 90's 
style narrow rims 21-23mm outside width. 
If I'm paying attention the Natchez Pass are nicer, If I'm just riding 
errands then in reality I don't notice the difference. I like both better 
than the slightly wider Kojak 2.0 which actually measured 44mm on 25mm 
rims, which is a nice width but I guess they are belted or something which 
makes them draggy. In the past I've used Ritchey Tom Slicks 1.4" that are 
about 35mm width, I like wider than that.

My XO-3 and 2001 Atlantis are set up in a similar way and I guess the geo 
is similar because both handle about the same. In theory the Atlantis with 
Nachez Pass is a much better bike, but once I'm out on the road it's all 
good!
 
I actually bought non-EL Natchez Pass for the XO-3 when they were on sale a 
couple years ago, but those dang Paselas won't wear out.

Knowing your tastes though, you should just go straight to the Natchez 
Pass. 26" mid sized slicks is pretty much an ignored category right now, no 
one wants to pay for the molds. In 650b WTB and SOMA are offering some 
slightly cheaper competitive options if you get them on sale, but I don't 
think they are doing 26".

-Dave J

On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 4:15:52 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> God willing, I'll have a new 26" wheel frame into which to fit new wheels 
> and tires; and fatter tires. 
>
> I know about the Nachez Pass. Are there significantly cheaper alternatives 
> that provide a good part of the ride quality of the NP EL in the 26 X 1.8" 
> size?
>
> I want something that performs well on pavement, and I will give up dirt 
> traction for nice pavement rolling.
>
> I want something that measures an actual 42-to-46 in the 559 size.
>
> Also, questions 2 and 3: what is the lightest tube you can use for these? 
> (I've bought no 26" tube fatter than 1" wide since about 2010.
>
> What pressure do you run your 42 or 46 mm tires at? The efficacy of 
> sealant in tubes depends on a sufficiently high pressure and I will not be 
> using a tubeless setup, for now anyway.
>
> If any respondent has tires to sell, let's talk.
>
> Oh, and a last indirectly related request: Am looking to BUY or TRADE a 
> petty, silver, internal cam, all-steel QR skewer for a 120 mm hub. Can 
> trade a 126 mm Campy, older, very nice.
>
> Someone offered to sell me a working TC hub (direct and -13.5%; say 76 and 
> 66 or 71 and 61) at a reasonable price, and I may have the gofast respaced 
> to 120 to accommodate a wheel built around this hub. Plans not final.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Lowrider racks on MIT Atlantis?

[Dave Johnston]

Here is my last experiment the new Tubus Grand Expedition front. While it 
can be physically mounted to the low rider braze-on it doesn't really 
work.  You would really want to mount the rack lower and use a P-clamp 
around the fork legs or the Tubus LM-1 clamp on mount. I plan on using this 
rack on a Clem H with the LM-1 clamp. It also has a diving board type mount 
from the top platform to the fork crown.

[image: IMG_3558.JPG]

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[RBW] Re: Lowrider racks on MIT Atlantis?

[Dave Johnston]

There are versions of the MIT Atlantis that have both Mark's rack braze-ons 
and Low rider braze-ons.
Probably can't go wrong with a Tubus Tara.
I can double check to see if a Tubus Duo or Grand expedition will work 
sometime this weekend. I have a 53cm still in the box.
Pic from Rivendell website:


[image: Rivendell-New-Atlantis-Touring-Bicycle-Square-10_1600x.jpg]


On Saturday, June 6, 2020 at 1:22:39 PM UTC-4, Ryan Nute wrote:
>
> Doug, how does it attach to the fork blades?  I thought Atlantii didn't 
> have lowrider mounts.
>
> Ryan
>

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[RBW] Re: New batch of Sam Hillbornes this fall.

[Dave Johnston]

I just hope they don't lengthen the chainstays and top tube. The current 
Atlantis, Joe's are no longer drop bar compatible and that is sad :(

-Dave J

On Saturday, May 16, 2020 at 8:29:13 PM UTC-4, Grady Wright wrote:
>
> The Email Newsletter from Rivendell yesterday mentioned Sam Hillbornes are 
> coming later this year and maybe in an older Rivendell color. Any guesses 
> what that color could be?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Admissions of Things You Ought to Have Known But Did Not: A Thread

[Dave Johnston]

The charts above and Jan's data has been combined with some other testing 
and put in a tool here:

https://info.silca.cc/silca-professional-pressure-calculator

Enter your bike weight and tire size and it will give you a recommendation 
that is a good start. add or subtract ~ 10% for a feel you like. I gave 
them my email for the pro version but the basic is good enough.

-Dave J

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[Dave Johnston]

And I'm picturing cross dressing men buying bikes out of the back of a van.

(probably wouldn't even raise an eyebrow in Vegas)

-Dave J

On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 7:23:41 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'm now picturing Leah in a Vegas casino parking lot with the back of the 
> van open. "Psst, hey buddy. I wanna show ya somethin'" 藍 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[Dave Johnston]

Better act quick Leah, the guys might beat you to them!


On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 6:51:29 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Dear #RivSisters,
>
> If ever Grant made a bike especially for us - it would be this Fancy 
> Cheviot. It is no coincidence we all have heart eyes for it. We’ve all said 
> it - it’s an extraordinarily elegant, delightful bicycle. Also, it looks 
> like a design that emerged from the nixed Anniversary Mixte and I love it 
> even more now.
>
> Girls, let’s clean out Rivendell’s inventory. 
> Yours, Leah
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2020, at 3:34 PM, 'Ann L' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
> 
> Me.  The more I look at it, the more I like it.  There is something so 
> elegant about the lines of that bike.  I was leaning towards getting a 
> Cheviot when the next batch gets in.  But now that I have seen this, I will 
> have to hold out for the fancy version.
>
> On Thursday, April 23, 2020 at 9:24:43 PM UTC-5, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>>
>> I saw this bike in the Riv newsletter and I nearly tipped over. This is 
>> the exact bike I would have chosen for myself if I had asked for a custom 
>> (but done in red, you know). It’s elegant and lovely and it looks like a 
>> ball gown. Do you see it? Those pretty curves in the frame, set off by 
>> those larger 700 c wheels? 
>>
>> Rivendell nailed it. They NAILED it. I cannot be satisfied with anything 
>> else now; I am ruined. Who else saw this and can’t wait to hand over their 
>> money? 
>>
>> And now, we wait. 
>> Leah in Love in Nevada
>
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> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Dave Johnston]

Yesterday (Sunday) there was a lot of cars out unlike last week, I think 
people packed the kids in the cars and just drove them around aimlessly. 
(Dang Sunday Drivers)

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 56cm Canti Saluki

[Dave Johnston]

If you are somewhat local (Mid-Atlantic) I would consider a trade for my 
51cm Butterscotch Joe Appaloosa F

-Dave J

On Friday, January 24, 2020 at 11:24:26 AM UTC-5, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> Seems like a rare bird (err I mean dog).
>
> I live between DC and Richmond, Virginia
>
> -Dave J
>

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[RBW] WTB: 56cm Canti Saluki

[Dave Johnston]

Seems like a rare bird (err I mean dog).

I live between DC and Richmond, Virginia

-Dave J

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[RBW] Re: Riv Atlantis MTB Video

[Dave Johnston]

Nice video, very calming music and such nice clean smooth trails. 
Around here in VA the trail are under 2" of leaves and mud and there are 
lots of roots and sticks below those leaves. Maybe add in one segment of 
grinding uphill :p

Dave in Virginia 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Many cranksets, Berthoud Saddle, Acorn Bag, IQ-X, drivetrain parts, etc.

[Dave Johnston]

Eric,
I'm interested in a set of the XTR cranks in 170mm. Whichever is the nicest 
ones you have left. If you have the inner spacers that would be great. I 
can probably dig up some bolts.

-Dave J

On Monday, July 1, 2019 at 1:25:57 PM UTC-4, Eric Douglas wrote:
>
> A few months ago I started a thread about hip/knee pain and crank length.  
> I’ve since seen a few specialists, started physical therapy and changed  my 
> cranks from 170 to 165. 
>
>  
>
> So, I’m selling a bunch of cranks, along with some other stuff.
>
>  
>
> Photos can be seen here: 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/147685640@N03/albums/72157709360495822
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Prices include shipping.
>
>  
>
> If asking prices seem to be out of line, feel free to make offers.
>
>  
>
> It’s best to contact me at ekdouglas (at) mindspring.com  
>
>  
>
> Regards,
>
>  
>
> Eric Douglas in Brooklyn
>
>  
>
> #1 Thorn cranks 110/74 bcd . 170mm length.  $50
>
> #2 Sugino cranks 110/74 bcd  170mm length.  $50
>
>  
>
> Shimano XTR 900 cranks. Possibly the nicest 110/74 bcd  cranks ever made. 
> 170mm length.  Note: bolts are not included and you’ll need spacers if 
> you want to mount a 74mm chainring.  I can see if I have spare spacers if 
> needed. Also, if you need chainrings, I have some used and new I can sell 
> cheap.
>
>  
>
> #3 $75
>
> #4 $75
>
> #5 $75
>
> #6 $60
>
> #7 $65
>
> #8 $85  very light use 
>
> #9 $90 some shopwear, but never mounted
>
>  
>
> Sugino cranks in black  130 bcd 175 mm length.  $40
>
> Shimano Ultegra cranks 130 bcd 172.5 mm length with bottom bracket. $60
>
>  
>
> Stronglight Impact cranksets.  All are new and 110 bcd with 
> self-extracting bolts.  The cranks were forged by Sugino and the 
> chainrings look to be TA quality.
>
>  
>
> 52/42  170mm $90
>
> 50/40  170mm $90
>
> 48/38/28 165mm $110
>
> 50/34  165mm $90
>
> 48/34  165mm $90
>
> 52/42 165mm $90
>
> 50/36 165mm $90
>
>  
>
> Other Stuff:
>
>  
>
> Berthoud Saddle. Taken off a bike I bought. Don’t know the model. 275mm x 
> 155 mm. Looks like it was barely used. $95
>
>  
>
> Acorn Handlebar bag. Designed to be used without a decaleur. New. $140
>
>  
>
> Shimano XT 9 speed long cage derailleurs.  1 new $50, one lightly used $40
>
> Shimano  10 speed bar end shifters. New. $75 . Two available.
>
> Shimano XT 11-36 10 speed cassette New $45
>
> SRAM PG 1050 12-36 10 speed cassette New $45 Two available.
>
> SRAM PG 1070   10 speed cassette New $55
>
>  
>
> TA Zephyr 46t 110 bcd chainrings. New and silver. $45  Two available.
>
>  
>
> B IQ-X in silver. New in package $95.  Two available.
> B Toplight Line Plus Rear light. New in package $2 
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

My go to derailleur for middle inner double is the XT fd-m737 90's era 
Microdrive Front that was designed for a 44-32-22 rings. The LX from the 
era is also good. I have not tried a CX70, but I would try your current 
spindle first. I would also consider putting a 1-2 mm BB spacer on the 
drive side before replacing the whole BB.

-Dave

On Tuesday, July 2, 2019 at 5:51:37 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> Had a long conversation with Roman today.  He claims that the conversion 
> is simple (as we discussed) but that the front derailluer can be an issue.  
> So most FD's have a longish cage and setting it that low will cause it to 
> hit the chainstay.  BUT Rivendell sells a 34/24 as their Low/Low and that 
> comes with a 36 Chainguard.  So my guess is that the CX FD is small enough 
> to handle it.  Roman indicated that going to one of those FD's would cause 
> me to need a wider BB than the 110 that comes stock on the Clem.  I can't 
> wrap my head around that.  So are all of you guys running the CX70 using a 
> wider BB? Is Rivendell really selling a guard and crankset that doesn't 
> easily work with the FD's that they sell?  When I look at the Low/Low crank 
> photos they look like they are using that CX70 FD and many are on Clems 
> which I have to assume have the stock 110 BB?  I don't want it to be this 
> hard. I am fully ready to remove that ring.
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

Liz asked about how to go about removing teeth. I would say that is a topic 
for another thread. I use a bandsaw with a metal blade and clean up with a 
belt sander. With power tools it's easy, but without I would recommend 
buying one from Riv, BBG bashguard, Salsa or one of the euro dealers.

-Dave

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 3:53:18 PM UTC-4, Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:
>
> So, how does one go about cutting down the teeth on a chainring?  I 
> practically never use my large chainring; on another bike I replaced it 
> with a chainguard, but would be happy with another option!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Liz
> Washington, DC
>
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 1:01:44 PM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>>
>> For what Roman did you would need shorter "track" style chain ring bolts. 
>> I googled $22 for Sugino at Ben's or $8 shipped for generic on ebay. 
>> You might have to experiment with F derailleurs for optimal placement. 
>> Maybe a shorter cage double road derailleur or an old Micro Drive front 
>> would work better. Many mountain or road Triple derailleurs will hit the 
>> chain stay if you lower them, see how high the derailleur is in the pic 
>> below, and the tail just clears the stay. 
>>
>> Be warned: An indexed front shifter will probably not work well when 
>> changing rings.
>>
>> I prefer cutting down an outer ring to act as a guard, but that gives you 
>> a large ring "look".
>>
>> [image: Willow Guard.jpg]
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes I agree that is the simplest method! The main reason I would remove 
>>> it is because I don't use it and prefer the look of a crankset with small 
>>> rings.  It's a visual thing for me.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:38:19 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>>
>>>> It's even simpler: don't ride the outer ring, consider it a rockguard 
>>>> with teeth, and a "holy smokes this is a wonderful 10 mile gentle descent 
>>>> with a tailwind that never happens" gear. Grin. But yes, nothing fancy. My 
>>>> QB has a single front chainring on its stock triple, leaving the two 
>>>> inside 
>>>> slots open, and it rides beautifully despite the chainline being "wrong". 
>>>> Quiet and smooth as a mouse. If I ever decide to add a ring, I likely have 
>>>> some thread cleaning to do, otherwise no biggie. Purists may say you need 
>>>> to do xz,y, or z. Only if you're a purist. I'm not. I'm a dirtist. Grin.
>>>>
>>>> With abandon,
>>>> Patrick
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

Johnny,

What else are you going to do to the drivetrain?  What rear cluster are you 
planning on using, 9 speed and 11-28? Is this a utility bike where you will 
just coast downhills, and will it see mostly paved use?

I have found 36-11 to be a bit limiting on the pavement and I am not a 
strong rider and tend to slow-roll in a 60-65 gear inch range. Also having 
your most used gears having fewer teeth like a 36-13 means they will wear 
out faster.

With a 36-24 up front you can run a shorter cage rear derailleur if desired.

-Dave J

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 10:18:19 AM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> So I posted a thread looking for a crankset because I didn't want to spend 
> a ton and didn't feel like piecing one together. The New Albion wide/low 
> has different gearing than the old Sugino one and what I really would 
> prefer is a low/low gearing but at the Sugino price.  Then it occurred to 
> me that the triple minus the large ring is pretty much a low/low and you 
> can grab those pretty cheap. And Sugino quality (while not as great as 
> Silver I am sure) is pretty high.  Would there be any hangups with getting 
> an XD triple and removing that large ring?  Anything that I am not thinking 
> of? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

For what Roman did you would need shorter "track" style chain ring bolts. I 
googled $22 for Sugino at Ben's or $8 shipped for generic on ebay. 
You might have to experiment with F derailleurs for optimal placement. 
Maybe a shorter cage double road derailleur or an old Micro Drive front 
would work better. Many mountain or road Triple derailleurs will hit the 
chain stay if you lower them, see how high the derailleur is in the pic 
below, and the tail just clears the stay. 

Be warned: An indexed front shifter will probably not work well when 
changing rings.

I prefer cutting down an outer ring to act as a guard, but that gives you a 
large ring "look".

[image: Willow Guard.jpg]


On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:43:01 PM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> Yes I agree that is the simplest method! The main reason I would remove it 
> is because I don't use it and prefer the look of a crankset with small 
> rings.  It's a visual thing for me.
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 12:38:19 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> It's even simpler: don't ride the outer ring, consider it a rockguard 
>> with teeth, and a "holy smokes this is a wonderful 10 mile gentle descent 
>> with a tailwind that never happens" gear. Grin. But yes, nothing fancy. My 
>> QB has a single front chainring on its stock triple, leaving the two inside 
>> slots open, and it rides beautifully despite the chainline being "wrong". 
>> Quiet and smooth as a mouse. If I ever decide to add a ring, I likely have 
>> some thread cleaning to do, otherwise no biggie. Purists may say you need 
>> to do xz,y, or z. Only if you're a purist. I'm not. I'm a dirtist. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Converting a triple to a low/low

[Dave Johnston]

What size rings are you talking about? 36t-26t?

I've done it and didn't even replace or move the front derailleur down at 
all, which gives a gap that does look a little weird. I did cut off the 
teeth of a 49t larger outer ring to act as a guard, and eventually replaced 
the 36t with a 39t for a bit more range. I thought the 36t-11t combo a bit 
limiting.

I have a unused "Silver" 170mm crank w 35t, 24t if you are interested, at 
slightly less than Riv pricing. I have other chain rings available and we'd 
have to figure out a solution to the outer ring.

-Dave J in VA

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 10:18:19 AM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> So I posted a thread looking for a crankset because I didn't want to spend 
> a ton and didn't feel like piecing one together. The New Albion wide/low 
> has different gearing than the old Sugino one and what I really would 
> prefer is a low/low gearing but at the Sugino price.  Then it occurred to 
> me that the triple minus the large ring is pretty much a low/low and you 
> can grab those pretty cheap. And Sugino quality (while not as great as 
> Silver I am sure) is pretty high.  Would there be any hangups with getting 
> an XD triple and removing that large ring?  Anything that I am not thinking 
> of? 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT my Shimano XT triple for your CX70 double

[Dave Johnston]

I've only used friction down tube or friction Bar-ends for shifting the 
front though, so I don't know about front indexing compatibility. For an 
ultra compact Riv-ish (large ring in the 38-44 range)  double system you 
will likely want to use almost the entire cassette with the large front 
ring, so some trimming ability is useful.

-Dave J

On Monday, May 20, 2019 at 8:11:28 AM UTC-4, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> I've used XT or LX derailleurs on three doubles (42-28, 40-26) and they 
> have worked great. What is the concern?
>
> -Dave J
>
> On Thursday, May 9, 2019 at 9:08:10 AM UTC-4, Conway Bennett wrote:
>>
>> Like it says, I have a used Shimano XT triple front derailer which came 
>> on a build kit direct from Rivendell and I'd like the option to do a 
>> compact double build using a CX70 FD.  So, if you'd like to do a swap, I'd 
>> appreciate it.  If you want to buy my derailer that's cool too.  I was just 
>> checking the model on rivbike.com and they are out of stock but easily 
>> attainable elsewhere.  Thanks in advance.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT my Shimano XT triple for your CX70 double

[Dave Johnston]

I've used XT or LX derailleurs on three doubles (42-28, 40-26) and they 
have worked great. What is the concern?

-Dave J

On Thursday, May 9, 2019 at 9:08:10 AM UTC-4, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> Like it says, I have a used Shimano XT triple front derailer which came on 
> a build kit direct from Rivendell and I'd like the option to do a compact 
> double build using a CX70 FD.  So, if you'd like to do a swap, I'd 
> appreciate it.  If you want to buy my derailer that's cool too.  I was just 
> checking the model on rivbike.com and they are out of stock but easily 
> attainable elsewhere.  Thanks in advance.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Riv Hunqapillar Demos for sale under web specials.

[Dave Johnston]

I think the only hint at a MIT Hunq is the following from the Blahg, per 
below they considered keeping the name Hunqapiller for the new mtb.

"We were all set to name the new mtn bike Elephantus--a rebound name after 
we'd finally opted out of Hunqapillar to avoid confusion...and it turns out 
there is an Elephant brand bike, so we gotta just let him be with that" 
- Blahg

I think its OK to keep names for updates to a product serving the same 
basic function.  Old Corvettes aren't anything like new Corvettes, and the 
old Trek 720 doesn't look like today's. Besides which they are keeping the 
Atlantis name and the Hunq head badge and decals are awesome, gotta be 
better than "H. "Larry" Gomez".

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Dave Johnston]

Actually after reviewing the picture I take it back. A big 700c might not 
fit under the hoop on the Smarti.

-Dave J

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:28:05 AM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
> with weight distribution. 
> What do you all like? 
> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>  (which has the hoop). $120
> Salsa Down Under Rack 
> . 
> Aluminum. $65
> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>
> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Riv riders like for front low rider racks?

[Dave Johnston]

What size Joe is this? If it's a 700c model I think you could use a Tubus 
Smarti, to the braze ons. If its another size you can use the smarti onto 
the canti's which is what it is designed for.

Here is a pic on a 650b Joe, but the struts aren't level but usable. I 
think it would work better on a 700c model.


-Dave J

On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 10:28:05 AM UTC-4, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have a Joe Appaloosa with a Mark’s rack, Wald medium and a rear 
> rack.That is all fine and good, but I was thinking of getting a front 
> lowrider rack to throw on when I am going camping. Partly to experiment 
> with weight distribution. 
> What do you all like? 
> I see the Tubus Duo  (need 
> double sided eyelets which I have) and Tara 
>  (which has the hoop). $120
> Salsa Down Under Rack 
> . 
> Aluminum. $65
> Riv Hub Area rack. 7 lb (really?) weight limit. Sold out/discontinued.
>
> Any others that people love? Thoughts on steel v aluminum?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: Something Simple This Way Comes...

[Dave Johnston]

I tried Dove bars upside down for awhile on my fixed/free bike and didn't 
like them at all in upside down mode. Somehow low and close is worse than 
high and close.

 I found Mustache are better for that look and purpose, but I eventually 
settled on drops. I prefer drops when you only have one gear to work with 
as I find honking the under geared bike on steep uphills easier using drops 
and hoods positions (m bars are good for that too).

-Dave



On Sunday, February 18, 2018 at 11:58:00 PM UTC-5, tc wrote:
>
>
> 
> Soon... :)

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[RBW] Re: Quick & cheap solution to clear the front derailleur clamp to mount a bottle cage

[Dave Johnston]

I use presta tube nuts or Aluminum spacers I get in the nut and bolt 
section of True Value Hardware. My local true value has stainless steel cap 
screws in M4, M5, M6 sizes in the common bicycle lengths as well. Although 
for the load bearing bolts on racks, seatpost, stem you should use 
non-stainless of excellent quality for the higher strength.

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 4, 2018 at 11:03:20 AM UTC-4, tc wrote:
>
> I wish Riv, and other companies, would ship their bikes with longer bottle 
> cage bolts and spacers to enable one to mount a cage (or whatever) so it 
> will clear/span the front derailleur clamp.  (They do know it's there...).  
> And, to be fair, maybe all bottle cage manufacturers could design cages 
> with mounting tabs that would stick out enough to clear derailleur clamps 
> :)  Anyway, my Velo Orange "Retro" bottle cage has a perfectly flat 
> mounting area, so I needed a solution.
>
> I saw that Problem Solvers provides a bolt+spacer solution ... so 
> obviously this is common enough to warrant some company selling a 
> work-around.  As I thought it might be over-priced, but more importantly 
> because I wanted to get on with it and ride, my solution was to:
> - Go to Performance Bike 10 min away and get two M5 x 0.8 x 20mm socket 
> head stainless bolts (free ... they had a jillion in a plastic jug of diff 
> lengths)
> - Go to Home Depot 5 min from there and get two packs of four M5 stainless 
> flat washers (a little over $1 for both packs total).  They had no suitable 
> 4mm-ish spacers
> - Stack 4 washers behind each mounting hole in the the bottle cage so as 
> to space it out and just clear the protruding derailleur clamp
>
> Including the driving and looking for stuff, I was good to go in about 45 
> min from initial head-scratching.  From 5 feet away, you have to look 
> really hard to discern the diff between washers and single spacer.  Of 
> course the bottle hides everything when it's in the cage.
>
>
> 
>
>
> Anyway, I'm sure others have some up with similar solutions.  This is my 
> quick, cheap solution - hope it helps somebody.  I probably need to look 
> for a bike-oriented metric fastener|washer|spacer "kit" somewhere.  I tend 
> not to need anything metric except for bikes, so I haven't built up a bin 
> full of this stuff yet.
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] Re: New Atlantis Pre-sale page is up on rivbike.com

[Dave Johnston]

per Riv on the expanded (aka 6 deg sloping top tube) frames:
"PBH minus 29 to 32 is good"
info at the very bottom of this page:
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh

or you can look at the Appaloosa in this chart and extrapolate:
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/choosing-a-frame-size
or subtract 2-3cm from the old Atlantis sizing.

-Dave J


On Saturday, April 7, 2018 at 9:40:09 PM UTC-4, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all.  I've been out of town and mostly offline for 4 days and am 
> catching up.  I've looked through this string and read the new postings on 
> Riv's site, and don't see PBH recommendations for the new Atlantis.  Has 
> Riv posted them anywhere?  Thanks.  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Dave Johnston]

I voted "YES" with my wallet today! Which means I'll have a butternut 51cm 
Appaloosa F for sale in the fall. The sizing of the 53cm Atlantis works a 
bit better for me and I prefer the Prussian Blue Green.

I'll move all the components over from the Joe, and I'll unfortunately 
probably not ride the Joe much in order to prevent damage.

In between DC and Richmond, VA,
David J

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 6:10:48 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The BLUG today announced an upcoming pre-sale for a less expensive 
> Atlantis.  No doubt they will be made in Taiwan.  The pricing hint is "a 
> tad more than an Appaloosa".  Is it good that Rivendell is evolving?  I say 
> yes.  Is it a little sad that the Atlantis is changing?  I say sure, a 
> little.  I'd bet a dollar that some of their recent cashflow worries came 
> from the financials around this change.  Made to order frames are expensive 
> but cost you nothing until somebody wants to buy one.  Taiwan builds have 
> to be done in expensive pre-paid runs, which require a bunch of cash on 
> hand.  
>
> The curved double TT of the biggest size was on instagram I think.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB used 700x32-38 Supple Tires

[Dave Johnston]

Go wide young man, go wide!

On Saturday, March 24, 2018 at 11:58:38 AM UTC-4, Tim O. (Portland, OR) 
wrote:
>
> Hi, Friends!
>
> Anyone have a set of used 700x32-38 supple tires they'd like to pass on? 
> I've got a project in the works and don't have much of a budget. 
>
> Thanks!
> Tim
> PDX 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB - Old / used / cheap 650B tires

[Dave Johnston]

Well conversions are great when you can go from < 700x28 with no chance for 
fenders to >650b x 33 with fenders. If you are still stuck with 28mm that 
is going to lower the bottom bracket alot and the ability to run fenders 
might not be worth the effort.  I'm not sure I would even bother with a 
conversion these days, given there are probably some great used 650b bikes 
or off the rack Soma's available for cheap.

I keep my conversion bike around for sentimental reasons more than because 
its a great 650b bike. For instance the Bleriot, San Marcos are better 
bikes in my world view. 

-Dave J

On Friday, March 23, 2018 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-4, KyleBH wrote:
>
> Assembling a bike from parts, 650B conversion, need some 28-32 650B 
> tires.  You know those ones you took off your bike because they were worn 
> or old but didn't have the heart to throw out?  Yeah, those.  
>
> I do have some practically unused Fatty Rumpkins (too wide for my use 
> case) to trade.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB - Old / used / cheap 650B tires

[Dave Johnston]

The Schwalbe search engine comes up with:
G-One Speed, 30-584
https://www.schwalbetires.com/node/3026
My experience is Schwalbe is sometimes undersized so I would guess this is 
more like a 28mm.

So given that, the so called 35mm Kojak may or may not work:
Kojak, 35-584
https://www.schwalbetires.com/node/282




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[RBW] Re: WTB - Old / used / cheap 650B tires

[Dave Johnston]

That size is gonna be tough. Riv had some at 33.333mm that were pretty 
close to 33mm actual. I think Michelin had the Megamium and Hutchinson 
“Confrérie des 650” tire was about 32m. These were hard to find even years 
ago.

Good Luck!


On Friday, March 23, 2018 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-4, KyleBH wrote:
>
> Assembling a bike from parts, 650B conversion, need some 28-32 650B 
> tires.  You know those ones you took off your bike because they were worn 
> or old but didn't have the heart to throw out?  Yeah, those.  
>
> I do have some practically unused Fatty Rumpkins (too wide for my use 
> case) to trade.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB - Old / used / cheap 650B tires

[Dave Johnston]

Can you fit 35mm?

-Dave J
Virginia

On Friday, March 23, 2018 at 3:41:00 PM UTC-4, KyleBH wrote:
>
> Assembling a bike from parts, 650B conversion, need some 28-32 650B 
> tires.  You know those ones you took off your bike because they were worn 
> or old but didn't have the heart to throw out?  Yeah, those.  
>
> I do have some practically unused Fatty Rumpkins (too wide for my use 
> case) to trade.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kyle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[Dave Johnston]

 I hate when Riv skips the down tube shifter braze-ons and replaces them 
with stops. Unlike the Joe the new Atlantis should be more compatible with 
drop bars (shorter Top Tube) and whatever shifters you might want to use. 
(Downtube, bar-end, brifters, indexing or not).  

Riv has been pushing hard for friction and upright bars and stops are fine 
for that, but it doesn't mean all Riv owners want to run that. Even Analog 
(one of there dealers) prefers drops, when run high and close.

If you really want simple, cheap and "only shift when you absolutely need 
to" shifting then friction downtubers are the way to go! (and I really mean 
that in a good Rivish way)

-Dave J

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 6:10:48 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The BLUG today announced an upcoming pre-sale for a less expensive 
> Atlantis.  No doubt they will be made in Taiwan.  The pricing hint is "a 
> tad more than an Appaloosa".  Is it good that Rivendell is evolving?  I say 
> yes.  Is it a little sad that the Atlantis is changing?  I say sure, a 
> little.  I'd bet a dollar that some of their recent cashflow worries came 
> from the financials around this change.  Made to order frames are expensive 
> but cost you nothing until somebody wants to buy one.  Taiwan builds have 
> to be done in expensive pre-paid runs, which require a bunch of cash on 
> hand.  
>
> The curved double TT of the biggest size was on instagram I think.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: Super long chainstays and putting your bike buses/trains

[Dave Johnston]

I hate when Riv removes the down tube shifter braze-ons and replaces them 
with stops. Unlike the Joe the new Atlantis should be compatible with drop 
bars and whatever shifters you might want to use. (Downtube, bar-end, 
brifters, indexing or not). I think the only reason that Riv uses stops is 
to save a couple bucks for them or the customer (adjusting stops cost 
money). Just because Riv uses friction and upright bars doesn't mean all 
Riv owners do. 

If you really want simple, cheap and infrequent shifting then friction 
downtubers are the way to go!

-Dave J

On Tuesday, March 20, 2018 at 7:34:18 PM UTC-4, Eamon Nordquist wrote:
>
> I was just thinking about how Rivendell is moving towards very long 
> chainstays, and how that might impact people wanting to put their bike on 
> the racks on city buses, or the hooks on light rail trains. I don't 
> personally use either very often, but do occasionally need to do both 
> options. I personally wouldn't consider a bike that was too long for the 
> bus or commuter train. I don't know how long the new Atlantis is, but in 
> the case of the Clem in my size, I'm pretty sure that they are too long for 
> the racks on Seattle city buses. I'm not sure on others, since the geometry 
> charts don't list wheelbase length. It probably impacts transporting your 
> bike with a car as well.
>
> I'm not arguing for or against the choice - it just got me thinking that 
> there is a potential downside that is unrelated to whether or not you like 
> the handling or looks.
>
> Eamon
> Seattle
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB 62-65cm Riv frame

[Dave Johnston]

62cm Saluki on ebay, but thats pretty close to the Sam in function.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173206850815?ul_noapp=true

-Dave

On Thursday, March 8, 2018 at 11:57:14 PM UTC-5, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> I love my 64cm Sam, but have been curious about trying another Riv. Maybe 
> an Appaloosa? A quickbeam? A road? One of those Roscos? 
>
> In any case, let me know if you’re looking to sell something tall and 
> interesting. 
>
> Thanks, 
> Reid in Austin

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[RBW] Re: Riv request for store credits

[Dave Johnston]

Well I did one $100 Hail Mary and one $250 gift certificate. And then I put 
in some "notify when back in stock" on some items I am interested that are 
out of stock. I also contacted Rich about some wheels, but I'm not sure if 
custom wheels helps Rivendell the company.

-Dave J

On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 7:38:03 PM UTC-5, Chris Birkenmaier 
wrote:
>
> I was just in Ri s website and saw their request for their loyal 
> supporters to purchase store credits of $10 units to help through a cash 
> flow jump. I promptly purchased some credits. I love this company and am 
> happy to help them out. Goodness knows I always find things I want to buy 
> from them. While I was doing this I also got an email with the request. 
>  I’d encourage you all to read your email or visit their website for 
> complete details 
> Chris 
> Who is getting a Roadini to add to the collection

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[RBW] Re: 57 cm Blue Frank Jones Sr

[Dave Johnston]

Interesting that my 2001 56cm Atlantis is 7.2 lbs F and the 56cm 
Rambouillet was 6.5 lb F, no headset.
Don't be afraid to load Frank up with bags and ride anywhere !

-Dave

On Tuesday, February 13, 2018 at 6:32:33 PM UTC-5, lconley wrote:
>
> The frame fork and headset weight 7 lb. 7 oz.
>  
> Slapped a few parts on for a picture - time to start the build in earnest.
>  
> Laing 
> Cocoa, FL
>  
>
>
> 
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: When your Rambouillet chainstay/dropout broke, were you...

[Dave Johnston]

I run a 132mm spaced hub and my Rambouillet dropout has not broken.

(It's a 130 Ultegra shimano road hub that I added a 2mm spacer to and 
redished the wheel. There is 1mm less axle protruding from each side, but 
it seems to sit in the dropout just fine anyway. If this is unsafe let me 
know)

-Dave J

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 1:26:26 PM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> ..  using a 130, 132.5, or 135 rear wheel?

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[RBW] Re: where is frame size shown?

[Dave Johnston]

It's either a 56cm or 54cm by the looks of the headtube.

Orange is the best color!

-Dave

On Tuesday, December 26, 2017 at 3:53:18 PM UTC-5, Jamie Poolos wrote:
>
> Hi, any idea where on the frame the size might be shown? Specifically, for 
> a Rambouillet about 12 years old.

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[RBW] Re: Riv Suggested Max Rider Weight per Model; Separate question about Sam sizing

[Dave Johnston]

My files say this is the geo from 2013.
















On Tuesday, December 12, 2017 at 5:15:57 PM UTC-5, RDS wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a link or screenshot to the info where it showed the 
> suggested max rider weight per Rivendell model?  I can't remember where I 
> originally saw the info .. may have been a rivendell reader.
>
> I sometimes see people list Sam's for sale in size 56.  What was the next 
> size down previous to the current model sizing?  Meaning was there a 52 or 
> 54 or ???  Current Sam's are 51 and 55 .. just curious to what the previous 
> sizes were prior to the current sizing.
>

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[RBW] Re: Granny ring washers

[Dave Johnston]

I'll drop some 4mm spacers in the mail for you tomorrow.

-Dave J

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:43:25 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I have some old Suntour (Sugino) XC cranks on want to use on my upcoming 
> Cheviot as a double-plus-guard, but I'm going to need rings and those 
> little washers you use on the back for the granny ring. Anybody know what 
> size/who sells them?
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Granny ring washers

[Dave Johnston]

ebay
wheels manufacturing chainring spacers

Should be about $18 for 20 of the things. Your local bike shop might have a 
kit from the old days if they have been around a long time. You can also 
order direct from wheels mfg.
 I might have some extras in some sizes like 5.0mm and 4.0 mm
https://www.ebay.com/sch/wheels%20manufacturing%20chainring%20spacers?rmvSB=true

Hopefully somebody will chime in with the correct size. I would start with 
4.0mm otherwise.

-Dave

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:43:25 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I have some old Suntour (Sugino) XC cranks on want to use on my upcoming 
> Cheviot as a double-plus-guard, but I'm going to need rings and those 
> little washers you use on the back for the granny ring. Anybody know what 
> size/who sells them?
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB (iBob cross post) 30 x 46 square taper (170 approx) crank, silver

[Dave Johnston]

What kind of actual width is the Byway? I have to think they barely fit at 
the chain stays.
-Dave J

On Friday, November 24, 2017 at 8:03:37 PM UTC-5, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> Seeing a bit of Bleriot chatter here over the last week got me thinking ...
>
> And now I've got a second winter project going once I confirmed that the 
> WTB Byway's fit nicely on my own neglected Bleriot/55. I'm going to run it 
> with dirt drops and bar ends pretty stripped down for some mid-trail sand 
> road winter fun ... but need the wide range double ... and don't see 
> anything below $200.00 new. 
>
> Does anyone have something in their parts bin they'd like to see moved on 
> to a good home?
>
> lmk/jsk
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB (iBob cross post) 30 x 46 square taper (170 approx) crank, silver

[Dave Johnston]

I have Willow chainrings 110mm- 46t middle and 74mm - 30t Inner. You can 
either run a guard on the outside or nothing. For cranks I could do old 
used DX on the cheap end or New Riv Silver on the high end. Is that the 
kind of setup you would be interested in? If so I would have to go to the 
storage unit and take some pictures and assign prices.

-Dave J 

On Friday, November 24, 2017 at 8:03:37 PM UTC-5, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> Seeing a bit of Bleriot chatter here over the last week got me thinking ...
>
> And now I've got a second winter project going once I confirmed that the 
> WTB Byway's fit nicely on my own neglected Bleriot/55. I'm going to run it 
> with dirt drops and bar ends pretty stripped down for some mid-trail sand 
> road winter fun ... but need the wide range double ... and don't see 
> anything below $200.00 new. 
>
> Does anyone have something in their parts bin they'd like to see moved on 
> to a good home?
>
> lmk/jsk
>

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[RBW] Re: No More Rambouillet Decals @ RBW

[Dave Johnston]

Well you could always go with the Resurrecto Decals which are really cool. 
I would leave off the downtube and just use the head and seat tube.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/resurrectio-decals

On Monday, October 30, 2017 at 7:06:41 PM UTC-4, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> I'm readying my blue Ram for a re-paint (going green this time) and 
> emailed Roman about decals.  He reports none left and they don't have the 
> graphics files.  Actually, that's Okay. I'd be happy with a more minimalist 
> badging anyway. I've asked about an R deat tube decal, but if that is a 
> dead end, does anyone have one of those "Old Man Peterson's Ferrous 
> Velocipedes" decals? My 52cm size only came in blue so the green will be 
> kind of neat, I think.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bruce
>
>

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[RBW] Re: I think I have the 98th Atlantis. Does anyone remember what was cool?

[Dave Johnston]

Somewhere I have a Manila colored info sheet that came with my 2001 
Atlantis and it also said that the planned for tubing wasn't available and 
they used something of higher expense. I couldn't find that doc but I found 
this printout from 2001 saying what the tubing was supposed to be made out 
of.


-Dave








 

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 55cm Rivendell All-Rounder - $1200

[Dave Johnston]

Looks like the AR is sold as it has disappeared.

To continue our sizing discussion here is my 56 Rambouillet. As you can see 
even with the same size frame and upslope, the shorter fork on the Atlantis 
makes the head tube much longer.








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[RBW] Re: PSA: 55cm Rivendell All-Rounder - $1200

[Dave Johnston]

Here is a picture of my 56cm Atlantis and I agree the AR looks a bit 
bigger. Maybe 55.5 CtC?


On Friday, September 15, 2017 at 6:56:51 PM UTC-4, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I have no part in this sale, but there is a Rivendell All-Rounder for sale 
> near Chicago.  If it was a 58-60cm frame, I'd buy it in a heartbeat, but 55 
> is way too small for me.   
>
>
> https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/d/rivendell-all-rounder-bicycle/6303452057.html
>
> Cheers,
> Matt
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Dave Johnston]

Toshi,
I'm curious what size the frame is. When you go to sell it I think it will 
fit me! :p

-Dave J

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[RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Dave Johnston]

Any more build pictures? 

Eagerly awaiting the full build!,
Dave


On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 1:33:52 PM UTC-4, ttoshi wrote:
>
> Hi all, I've gotten several questions about the custom up on Instagram, so 
> I thought I would tell you about the bike.
>
> I plan to use the 650b bike for randonneuring.  It has the dropout that 
> allows a wireless connection to a Schmidt dynamo.  I'm planning to ride 
> with 42mm Hetre/BSP tires.  The 42s likely wouldn't clear the Paul Racers 
> without deflation, so I opted to get the Compass Centerpulls.  There is 
> internal wire routing as well as some thoughtful braze-ons for wiring of 
> the taillight in the rear.
>
> While Grant was designing the bike, he had me ride the Blue Rosco Road.  
> The long chainstays gave the Rosco Road a fantastic stability in the ride, 
> but the bike felt really nimble when I shifted my weight.  I know that I am 
> going to love the ride with the long chainstays.  
>
> Can't wait till it's built up!
>
> Toshi
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne vs A. Homer Hilsen

[Dave Johnston]

For an "all-around bike that used for commuting, light touring and some 
occasional off road riding" I think it is also is worth considering the 
Atlantis. I think the Atlantis tubing is actually lighter than the Sam 
Hill, but they may have made changes since the early ones, so I'm not sure 
where it stands now. The Atlantis can fit fatter tires than either the SH 
or AHH, and that makes it more suitable for the described purpose. Used 
Atlanti seem to come up for sale pretty often since they have been in 
production for so long.

Another thing to consider is the weight of the rider plus gear. For big 
loads the SH or Atlantis would be more appropriate and for lightweight 
loads the AHH might be more suitable. 

-Dave J

On Friday, August 11, 2017 at 9:39:25 PM UTC-4, Paul Choi wrote:
>
> I'm new to Rivendell bikes and to this forum. I'm considering a SH or AHH. 
> This would be a all-around bike that used for commuting, light touring and 
> some occasional off road riding. These bikes seem similar. 
>
> Can you tell me the differences of these two bikes?
>
> For those of you that have both - your feedback would be really 
> appreciated. 
>
> Paul in Santa Clara, CA.
>

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[RBW] Re: Saluki Links

[Dave Johnston]

Michael,

Compass has just increased their 42mm tire by 1.5mm so the fit will only 
get tighter. You might want to try some older ones. The 1.75" Pari-moto is 
measuring between 40-41mm for most people on a rim like the synergy.

-Dave

On Monday, August 7, 2017 at 8:56:55 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm late to this discussion and have not been able to follow all of the 
> rather cryptic postings, but.  I have an early, canti, grey Saluki 
> which, over time has become my most ridden bike.  It's just so comfortable, 
> so versatile, so ...perfect.  I have a soft spot in my heart for my 
> Rambouilet, but the Saluki guides over so much bad road with ease.  I 
> currently run 38's but intend to go with Compass 41s under VO fenders.
>
> Michael
>
> On Monday, August 7, 2017 at 7:50:32 PM UTC-4, KenP wrote:
>>
>> Hi John,
>>I had an early 50 canti Saluki, but found it too small; then sold it 
>> and got a 54 sidepull Saluki;  My pbh 79.5; the 54 fits better.  I liked 
>> the cantilever brakes better though because they stopped better and opened 
>> easier. And I like the 650B wheel size.  However these days I'm beginning 
>> to like bikes with wider tires for the local trails.   
>> Ken, 
>> Virginia
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 6:28:16 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>>>
>>> Does any one have any links to the RBW literature on the early 
>>> Saluki's???  looking at the 54cm on Seattle CL, since it is my size.
>>>
>>> I know the Saluki's transformed into the 650B AHHs, but there seems to 
>>> be subtle differences.
>>>
>>> I thought there were links on Cyclofiend's site, but have not located 
>>> them
>>>
>>>
>>> John Hawrylak
>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Saddle height vs PBH

[Dave Johnston]

15 yrs ago I measured my PBH at 83.5 and my saddles were at 72.5 with  B17 
and up to 73cm with a Flite using 170mm cranks and clipless MTB pedals.

I am currently measuring my PBH at about 83.0  and my saddles are 72.0 +/- 
5mm. I notice with thin flat pedals and thinner shoes I can be comfortable 
at 71.5mm, but usually go 72.0. With all these heights my heel barely 
scrapes or is above the pedal at full leg extension. I usually start at 
72.5 now and work my way down. I know for a fact my saddle is about 5mm 
lower now on my Atlantis than it was 10+ yrs ago because I had to stop 
using the Aero post, as the aero part was getting to be below the lug edge.

I am also not that good at getting consistent measurements. I can measure 
the same saddle 3 different times and get 71.8, 72, 72.3 depending how I 
eyeball where the top of the Brooks is. 

-Dave J



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[RBW] Re: Ride report / 1st tour on my Cheviot

[Dave Johnston]

Bob,
It looks like you live pretty close to the Rock Island trail from Toulon to 
Peoria. If you go a bit further north it looks like you can ride across the 
entire state from Moline to Chicago starting on the Hennepin and 
Illinois-Michigan Canal systems.  If you look for bike shops near trails 
they will often offer shuttle services if you only want to ride one way. 
The reports below mentions Amtrack service. Start researching and planning 
and report back with your pictures from the trip!

http://www.illinoistocht.com/bicycling-the-hennepin-and-im.html
http://www.thechainlink.org/forum/topics/hennepin-canal-trail

-Dave J

On Sunday, July 23, 2017 at 9:53:18 PM UTC-4, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Thanks for the write-up, the pictures and for doing that!  It looked 
> perfect to me, the kind of ride and adventure that calls to me and probably 
> calls out to just about anyone.  How could it not?  I do not live by good 
> trails like that, at least not that I know of or know to be accessible (car 
> free accessible anyway), but I do live in a town with good Amtrak service. 
>  I think an adventure, something very much like yours, just has to happen 
> for me soon, certainly this year.
>
> Thanks for posting this!  Excellent ride, great adventure, true 
> friendship...
>
> Bob Lovejoy
> Galesburg, IL  
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: What 'fast' tires for Rivendell Atlantis?

[Dave Johnston]

I took off the RTP's and switched to the compass 26x1.8" (41-42mm actual) 
and much prefer them for pure road use. I don't know if they are any 
faster, they may not be, but I like the road feel better. The RTP make you 
feel sort of disconnected from the road. RTP's are better on the gravel 
though. I actual have two sets of wheels but the other set has big bens 
which are sluggish on paved surfaces but give lots of confidence and 
plushness on gravel surfaces.

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[RBW] Re: How does Compass tire compare with Pari Moto?

[Dave Johnston]

I can't tell the difference between Pari-Moto and compass while riding. In 
the same width they feel about the same to me. I like the Pari-moto because 
they are cheap to buy and I'm not a high mileage rider so 1500mi lasts long 
enough that something else interesting comes out. Like I want the 38mm pari 
motos to wear out soon so I can install the 42's I got on firesale.

I am currently running:
Pari-moto 38mm
Compass UL 26x44 (actual about 41mm)
Compass UL 650b x 42 (actual about 41mm)
Girlfriend has Pari-Moto 42 (actual about 40-41mm)
Hetre 650b x 42 (actual about 42mm)


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[RBW] Re: BQ Icon: First Rivendell Lugs

[Dave Johnston]

I always wondered if these early Riv lugs were for "standard" 1" top tubes 
or 1-1/8"?

-Dave

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 1:20:48 AM UTC-4, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> In every *Bicycle Quarterly*, we present an "Icon" - a part that we feel 
> is among the best of its kind. Some are classics, like the JOS headlight or 
> the Huret Jubilee derailleur, others more recent like the Shimano M-737 SPD 
> pedals, or even timeless, like the Brooks B-17 saddle. Together with a 
> beautiful studio photo, we talk about the history and significance of the 
> part.
>
> The Summer 2017 "Icon" are the first Rivendell lugs, originally designed 
> by Richard Sachs for Bridgestone, and used on the very first Rivendell Road 
> frames way back in 1994. You could say that the resurgence of lugged bikes 
> began with this lugset, and for good reason: It's still one of the most 
> elegant curly lugsets ever made. My linked attachments don't always come 
> through, so I posted a photo on our Instagram:
>
> https://www.instagram.com/bikequarterly/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
> www.bikequarterly.com
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Front-End Update

[Dave Johnston]

Will the right brake arm open with the strut in the way? Is that why you 
have the left rear strut going to crown and right rear strut going to mid 
fork?

I have a tubus smarti rack (similar to Tara but designed to be mounted to 
brake posts) mounted to the high mid fork braze on . I tilts up on the 650b 
bike but should be more level on a 700c model. It has less tire clearance 
and probably wouldn't fit a 2" tire though.


On Sunday, June 4, 2017 at 3:16:13 PM UTC-4, J Imler wrote:
>
> Installed a Tubus Tara Big Apple on my Appaloosa. See pics for various 
> intricacies. Mark's Rack sitting with up-angle allows for top of brake arm 
> clearance under fork crown Nitto strut. Used Nitto clamps for mid-fork 
> connection. I bought the Tubus mid-fork connection doodad but like the 
> Nitto clamps much better. Those are Ortlieb Front Roller panniers. I loaded 
> Joe with a multitude of my kid's library books for an initiation and 
> thought it handled very well. See pics here: 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwHqG1q8uHdcaUt6aTV6X296a0U/view?usp=sharing
>

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[RBW] Re: Even a riv (design) can wobble

[Dave Johnston]

My Heron Touring is wonderfully stable and yet appropriately responsive for 
a "country bike", however about a decade ago I put on a small "clamp on the 
bars type" handlebar bag and it got shimmy coasting no hands down a gentle 
slope at about 20mph while trying to zip up a jacket. I took the handlebag 
off and stuffed it in the trunk bag on the rear rack, which made camera and 
chapstick access less convenient. I have never run a bar bag again on that 
bike, and never had shimmy before or since.

Knowing what I know now I would have just left the bar bag in place and:
a) pedaled, not coasted
b) rested knee on top tube while coasting
c) put more or less weight in the front bag as an experiment

-Dave J

On Monday, May 22, 2017 at 10:42:46 PM UTC-4, Bruce K Jamison wrote:
>
> My SOMA San Marcos 59cm has been a great bike.  At the end of a long ride 
> where I was admittedly tired and not riding in the best fashion (no hands, 
> leaning way back in the saddle), the bike got the dreaded wobble.   It went 
> away quickly.  I went over the bike checking the usual suspects, and am 
> happy to say everything is fine again.   But I was really surprised that it 
> happened at all.   The San Marcos is so stable and it’s even a 2X top tube 
> model.I guess it’s only human….  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: P-clamps or new Braze-ons for rear rack?

[Dave Johnston]

Some racks like some Tubus models have a separate mount or hole on the rack 
to mount a fender to. I use those when available.

-Dave

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[RBW] Re: Fenders - worth the safety risks? Rethinking my fender use.

[Dave Johnston]

I wanted to run semi knobbies on the Atlantis for the C canal so came up 
with this ugly setup. The front is a stay-less MTB fender that at least 
keeps the spray off the water bottles, headset, and out of your face (but 
not your shoes or the drivetrain). The rear has lots of clearance but that 
was because I had been experimenting with tires and didn't want to readjust 
the fender line each time. This helped alot to keep the trail grime off me 
and the bike. The CnO stays wet days after it rains. The front flops around 
but doesn't touch the tire and seems not to catch sticks.


-Dave J







On Friday, May 26, 2017 at 2:42:17 AM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> I have been using fenders now for a few years on my Rivbikes, but I get 
> nervous sometimes. Where I live it rains pretty often and lotsa sticks on 
> the shoulders.
> I have heard about the stick jamming effects that can happen, and 
> sometimes I wonder if using fenders is worth the risk.
>
> For instance, it would be easier for me to just clean myself and the bike 
> after a rain ride than to heal up after an endo.
>
> Also, Unless it is a very light rain, I get soaked anyway, even in quality 
> rain gear and shoe covers, from sweat/rain. Shoes become marshlands despite 
> shoe covers, etc.
>
> Today I rode 30 + miles in a light rain with full fenders and quality rain 
> gear. Arms soaked, back soaked, head soaked, hands soaked. Rest of me was 
> dry. So it worked pretty well. But that was a continual light rain.
>
> I got heavily rained on in the last 5 miles of a metric century last year, 
> in same gear and full Honjo fenders and was drenched to the bone, sloshing 
> sneakers, whole nine. I may as well have been without fenders the whole 
> ride and not had the stick jam crumple fender risk.
>
> *How do you cope on long rainy rides if you don't use fenders?*
>
> I wear wool to keep warm, but if I get drenched anyway, what's the use of 
> fenders if there is the endo risk? One injury endo would pretty much negate 
> all the cleanness and dryness I have had. And I would probably swear off 
> fenders forever.
>
> Rethinking rethinking.
>
> Here is a shot from today's rainy ride. Enjoy!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: TRP RRL and 7 speed compatability

[Dave Johnston]

8 of 9 on 7 is definitely doable. I have also put a 8sp cassette body on an 
old 7spd XT hub. with 9 spd road shifters you can also use 9s mtn or road 
derailleurs.  With 10s shimano road shifters you need to be more careful 
with interchangeability due to different pull reqmts, but it is still 
doable. With 10s Shimano road shifters you can use a 10s road derailleur, 
or a 9s mtn derailleur or a travel agent type thing or use Microshift 10s 
barcons that are compatible with 10s mtn derailleurs.

Are there 10 spd cassettes with loose cogs? I'm not sure I've never gone 
past 9. I know you can get 9spd SRAM cassettes where the cogs can be 
disassembled with a small Allen wrench.

-Dave J

On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 at 3:06:16 PM UTC-4, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> Two unrelated questions but:
>
> Do TRP RRL levers work with V-Brakes without a travel agent?
>
> And, is it true you can remove a cog from a 10 speed cassette to achieve 9 
> speed on a 7 speed hub body.  We're talking shimano stuff.
>
> Thanks in advance. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Three 55cm and No 51cm Appaloosas Left

[Dave Johnston]

Call the dealers like Gravel and Grind, maybe you'll get lucky.

-Dave J

On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 7:07:50 PM UTC-4, REC wrote:
>
> I asked Roman to clarify something from Grant's blog about only three 
> Appaloosas left, and this was his reply:  
>  
>
> "Grant was referring to 55cm Appaloosa completes. That being said and I'm 
> sorry to say, we're totally sold out of 51cm Appaloosa framesets and 
> completes. Almost all of them were preordered and the remaining few went 
> faster than we could imagine (even oversold).
>
>  
> The next order of Appaloosas is a ways out."
>
>  
> So, if you want a 55cm one, you'd better order soon.
>  
> Roberta
>

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[RBW] Re: Bags

[Dave Johnston]

with a 72cm saddle height and 700c wheels the Med was banging on the fender 
while empty. I wasn't comfortable with that so installed a rack. I don't 
know how much weight a plastic SKS fender will support.

-Dave

On Sunday, March 19, 2017 at 8:47:32 AM UTC-4, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, I was wondering if I could get some thoughts on a new saddle 
> bag for my Sam. My current setup is I have a Mark's rack on the front 
> combined with a Wald 137 Basket and a Swift Industries Sugar Loaf bag. My 
> saddlebag is a Sackville X-small. This is a great set up for all around 
> riding. I am considering adding a saddle bag that will allow me to carry 
> some extra cargo. I don't have a rear rack and don't have any intention of 
> adding one. That limits me to the Small or the Medium Sackville. I am 
> trying to decide between these two sizes and I am not sure what to do. My 
> goal is to have a bag big enough for commuting and possibly some S24O 
> trips. I don't currently have the gear for the overnight camping and wonder 
> really how much I'll get to do that. I was initially leaning towards the 
> small but thought why not get the medium. I might be happy to have the 
> extra space when I need it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! 
>
> Tim
>
>

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[RBW] Re: silver a crank forward

[Dave Johnston]

The trick with the hidden bolt is to put the one short chainring nut in the 
ring then place the ring rotated off by a few degrees and then rotate the 
ring into place.  The newer ones seem to have a bigger gap at the hidden 
hole than the older ones, so they are easier. 

None of the ones I have have thin spacers so I'm not sure what that is 
about. Where are these spacers?

-Dave J

On Sunday, March 19, 2017 at 11:22:02 PM UTC-4, Mobile Bill wrote:
>
> Seems like discussions about the new Silver cranks got lost in the q 
> factor, but after working to put my handsome Sugino back together this 
> weekend, I have got to take my greasy hat off to Grant and Co. for finally 
> fixing that nearly unfixable crank. No hidden bolts, no fiddly spacer 
> wafers to lose or forget where they go or try to hold in place with one 
> hand while the other two hands are engaged trying to match the bolt with 
> the rings...and then there's the Silver's holey chain guard, which should 
> greatly reduce the agitation required to clean the chain rings, as well as 
> eliminating the chain jumping that is almost inevitable with the Sugino 
> chain guard. Wish all "improvements" were so practical and thoughtful. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis now redundant?

[Dave Johnston]

Did the top tube length change on the 2017 Appaloosa? In the old chart 
(attached) the 51cm model says Top Tube of "56.5cm", the new chart shows 
the Top tube as "57.5".  Or is this just a matter of effective vs actual?


https://www.rivbike.com/pages/geometry
vs



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Re: [RBW] How are some Appaloosa owners loading up their bikes for commuting?

[Dave Johnston]

ed,

On the other side of the size spectrum I also have a 51cm Appaloosa and 
have a 83cm PBH, 72cm SH, and 4cm more seatpost showing than Phillip.

-Dave

On Friday, March 3, 2017 at 5:22:26 PM UTC-5, ed wrote:
>
> Hi Philip,
> I know this is off topic, but what is your pbh, seat height and how much 
> seat post is showing in your 51 Appaloosa? :-)
> I have been dreaming of getting a green Appaloosa.
>
> On Sat, Mar 4, 2017 at 2:24 AM, Philip Kim  > wrote:
>
>> I plan to run a front basket, but wondering how you guys run loads for 
>> commuting? I want to take advantage of the long chainstays. I'm thinking an 
>> R14 or Marks rack with a saddlebag, but also see the convenience in the 
>> Nitto 32R and putting panniers.
>>
>> Pics requested! Please
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: cool new geometry section on rivbike.com

[Dave Johnston]

I believe all the Waterford bikes are pretty much built to order and you 
can get different paint color for an upcharge. Since Riv and Waterford 
already have the designs and jigs for previous size models there is no 
reason for them not to keep offering them.

-Dave J


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[RBW] Re: Vintage Expedition vs. AHH and Atlantis

[Dave Johnston]

Does the Expedition have standard Diameter tubing (1" top tube, 1 1/8" 
downtube). I would think that would make a huge difference in the flexiness 
/ livelyness of the frame even if it had a fairly thick wall.

-Dave

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[RBW] Re: FS-Joe Appaloosa

[Dave Johnston]

Riv has recently posted a new frame sizing chart. I think its useful since 
every model is a bit different.








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[RBW] Re: FS Heron 53cm - need help to identify vintage

[Dave Johnston]

A little more research show the Riv era had short horizontal rear dropouts, 
which makes yours a Kuzma version. Both were made in the US by Waterford. 
Early 2000's

-Dave

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[RBW] Re: FS Heron 53cm - need help to identify vintage

[Dave Johnston]

I could be wrong maybe only the touring model switched to oval blades. That 
review says the Rivendell version was Reynolds 531. My 2004 Heron Touring 
says "Heritage Select".

Todd is still semi active on the ibob list so you could ask him.

-Dave



On Saturday, March 4, 2017 at 1:55:54 PM UTC-5, Melanie wrote:
>
> Greetings Riv friends!  This lovely Heron needs a new home.   I love the 
> feel of the ride, but it's just too small for me. Can anyone tell me what 
> version/year Heron this is?  The tube sticker reads Heritage Custom Select.
>
> The 3 x 9 drivetrain is Ultegra except for a Deore XT rear derailleur.
> Crank arms 170; rings 30, 42, 52
> Ultegra headset
> Ultegra BR6500 Brakes, Flight Deck levers (brifters)
>
> Conti Top Touring tires (25mm?)
>
> Specialized treadless stem with quill converter
>
> Specialized bars, shallow bend
>
> Ritchey hubs and skewers, bladed spokes, and unlabeled rims
>
>
> I can provide more pictures/info if anyone is interested.  Thanks.
>
>
> Melanie
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Heron 53cm - need help to identify vintage

[Dave Johnston]

The round fork blades make it Rivendell Era vs Todd Kuzma era. 
Adventure cycling did a review in 1999
http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/rivendell.pdf

On Saturday, March 4, 2017 at 1:55:54 PM UTC-5, Melanie wrote:
>
> Greetings Riv friends!  This lovely Heron needs a new home.   I love the 
> feel of the ride, but it's just too small for me. Can anyone tell me what 
> version/year Heron this is?  The tube sticker reads Heritage Custom Select.
>
> The 3 x 9 drivetrain is Ultegra except for a Deore XT rear derailleur.
> Crank arms 170; rings 30, 42, 52
> Ultegra headset
> Ultegra BR6500 Brakes, Flight Deck levers (brifters)
>
> Conti Top Touring tires (25mm?)
>
> Specialized treadless stem with quill converter
>
> Specialized bars, shallow bend
>
> Ritchey hubs and skewers, bladed spokes, and unlabeled rims
>
>
> I can provide more pictures/info if anyone is interested.  Thanks.
>
>
> Melanie
>

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