[RBW] Re: Recommend me a ride in Marin or nearby?

[Wesley]

Somehow I wrote "Marines" where I meant to write "Martinez". Dunno how that 
happened. Anyway, sorry for any confusion.
-W

On Monday, June 10, 2024 at 7:49:32 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> in my experience, Marin is generally very hilly or very heavy traffic. If 
> you’re coming from Sac I would recommend going to Marines instead and 
> riding into the trails above Rankin Park. There’s a steep climb to start 
> but then it gets excellent. It’s a huge network of fire roads that are part 
> of the Bay Trail, among others. 
> -Wes (also in Sac)
> On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 11:15:01 PM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Greetings all, 
>>
>> My son wants me to take him riding in Marin or the bay somewhere for a 
>> day. He’s newly experimenting with riding a semi-loaded bikepacking rig in 
>> anticipation of attempting a solo three day trip at the end of summer. He 
>> is 15 (almost 16) and will be riding on a loaner VO Piolet. I will be 
>> riding my older Atlantis set up with Super Yummy gravel tires. Any 
>> recommendations of a pretty ride that’s not just all climbing or too 
>> sketchy? My fitness level isn’t what his is. 
>> You can reply directly if you choose. 
>>
>> Thanks, Liz in Sac
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommend me a ride in Marin or nearby?

[Wesley]

in my experience, Marin is generally very hilly or very heavy traffic. If 
you’re coming from Sac I would recommend going to Marines instead and 
riding into the trails above Rankin Park. There’s a steep climb to start 
but then it gets excellent. It’s a huge network of fire roads that are part 
of the Bay Trail, among others. 
-Wes (also in Sac)
On Sunday, June 9, 2024 at 11:15:01 PM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:

> Greetings all,
>
> My son wants me to take him riding in Marin or the bay somewhere for a 
> day. He’s newly experimenting with riding a semi-loaded bikepacking rig in 
> anticipation of attempting a solo three day trip at the end of summer. He 
> is 15 (almost 16) and will be riding on a loaner VO Piolet. I will be 
> riding my older Atlantis set up with Super Yummy gravel tires. Any 
> recommendations of a pretty ride that’s not just all climbing or too 
> sketchy? My fitness level isn’t what his is. 
> You can reply directly if you choose.
>
> Thanks, Liz in Sac

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Bike Day: My Little Platy

[Wesley]

You know you're in deep when you're sourcing BMX parts to get the look 
right. It's funny how the bike world is almost completely separated between 
BMX and all other bikes - the brands, the language, and the parts standards 
apparently have almost no contact across the divide.
-Wes
On Thursday, May 23, 2024 at 3:51:53 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> IMO this ties with the other customized Platypus featured here recently 
> for "nicest-looking Platypus in list history," and it probably wins the 
> award for "most attention paid to aesthetics" in list history. Note: I 
> think very many of the Rivs posted are lovely to look at.
>
> Me, as with Mitch, "I am a guy." I am fully OC about my bikes for parts 
> and builds and design (I remember most of the parts from my first 1970 full 
> build), but not aesthetics, and it's interesting to see how others' 
> passions turn out.
>
> Cerakoting is new to me; had to Google it. I see it differs from 
> anodizing, but, how exactly? Too bad webmeisters are generally better fancy 
> web page design than conveying information -- this for global corporate 
> websites as well as bike websites; the latter on the whole do better. I 
> gather that anodizing is colored (or not) oxidizing while cerakoting is a 
> --- coating.
>
> One of the early links that DDG turned up said: "Anodized versus Cerakote: 
> Which is better for your AR15?"
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 9:56 AM Armand Kizirian  
> wrote:
>
>> Looks super fun. Good to know Paul can anodize parts like that! Also 
>> interested to hear how the different size rides for you. Enjoy!
>>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Riv-rafting

[Wesley]

That’s a fliptail: https://duckworks.com/fliptail-7-plans-pdf/

I built its ancestor the origami from the same designer about six years ago 
to be a compact tender for the boat we were living aboard. It turned out 
very heavy so we never used it, preferring our inflatable kayaks. 

The fliptail is probably a bit lighter but I don’t think it’s really a 
great combo with a bike. Would love to be wrong, though!
-Wes

On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 11:28:47 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Now that has to be one of the most interesting commutes I've heard about; 
> thanks for sharing.
>
> I'd love to know more about his boat and what it's made from and its 
> features.
>
> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 11:22 AM  wrote:
>
>> This guy did a bike/boat commute from Jersey into NYC. Pretty unique 
>> setup!
>>
>> [image: maxresdefault.jpg]
>>
>> A bike commute you wont believe - Tom Lutz 
>> 
>> youtu.be 
>> 
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Riv-rafting

[Wesley]

I’ve got a slow-developing project to create a bike raft out of a $40 
“inflatable camp lounger”. If I can raft 30 feet across an irrigation 
ditch, I can swap gravel country roads for 12 miles of commuting alongside 
interstate 80. I’ll let you know if it works.
-Wes

On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 4:20:11 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Got it; again, sounds very interesting. I see that Alpacka boats retail 
> basically for the price of an entry-level Clem.
>
> I should probably buy an entry level Clem first, though.
>
> On Thu, May 9, 2024 at 4:27 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>
>> Hello Patrick. No trailer needed as, you guessed it, the raft rolls into 
>> a tidy little 5lb burrito and fits very nicely on the rack. In addition to 
>> the photos of the raft with the bike, I should have taken a photo of the 
>> bike with the raft on it!
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 3:05:53 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> That looks very tempting. I can't make out a trailer; does the boat fold 
>>> up small enought to be carried on a rack?
>>>
>>> I'm 1/4 mile crow-directly west through bosque scrub from the Rio Grande 
>>> and it's an easy and pleasant ride north on a paved recreation trail to 
>>> various possible insertion points. In fact, my next door neighbors have a 
>>> couple of inflatable canoes which they generally drive north to entry 
>>> points, float back south, then drive the other car to pick up the first 
>>> one; tho' husband Chris some years ago did drive north, float south, then 
>>> rode his bike back north to get his car.
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 9, 2024 at 12:07 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>>>
 Hey Sue, 

 I haven't tried my boat without a bike yet, but I did paddle one a few 
 years back *sans bicyclette *and I remember it being like any other 
 raft without a keel- kind of squirreley. 
 With the bike, however, it handles very nicely indeed. Alpacka makes 
 other such rafts for use without a bicycle, and I imagine these track much 
 better. 

 Yes, the bicycle is attached at 4 lashing points with Voile-type 
 straps, and the wheels with bungee cords. It's all very solid and stable. 
 If there was a chance that my bike would end up at the bottom of the 
 river, 
 I'd think twice. 

 Maybe this photo shows it a bit better:
 [image: IMG_3267 (1).jpeg]
 Cheers, John

 On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 8:13:40 AM UTC-7 Sue J wrote:

> John, I am curious to know how this craft behaves if there is no bike 
> in the bow. Did you give that a try?
> Also, do you secure the bike in the bow, or if you capsize would it 
> sink to the bottom of the waterway?
>
> Sue
>
> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 7:19:46 AM UTC-7 Curtis wrote:
>
>> Looks like a great adventure.  Enjoy.
>>
>> Curtis
>>
>> On Wed, May 8, 2024, 7:18 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>>
>>> After several months in a box, I finally took my pack raft for its 
>>> maiden voyage down the Salt River. 
>>> [image: IMG_3282.jpeg]
>>> I rode 20k out to the put-in, and in about 30 minutes was ready to 
>>> shove off. The Alpacka raft is a fine design that has exceeded my 
>>> expectations for comfort, stability, and maneuverability. My tall bike 
>>> and 
>>> body fit just fine. It's a super fun boat!
>>> [image: IMG_3271.jpeg]
>>> If you love riding and rivers, this is the way to go!
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_3308.jpeg]
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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 .

>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> ---
>>>
>>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, 

[RBW] Re: Bar Tape and/or Grips on an Albatross Bar

[Wesley]

I love cheapo cork grips on albatross bars. The kind of grip with cork 
grains glued together into a cushy mass. For 
example: https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/242114-cardiff-grips-gryfed-cork-6386

I think Ergon cork grips would work great too, I've just never used them.
-Wes
On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 1:37:14 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

> Hi all,
> I just recently installed Albatrass bars on my new to me Roadini. I also 
> installed bar end shifters. I'm thinking I'll wrap Newbaums tape for grips 
> but am considering some padding in the grip area. Has anyone used padding 
> or been able to slide an ESI type of grip over the shifters? I've also 
> considered splitting an ESI grip and wrapping that with Newbaums. Any 
> examples or ideas would be most appreciated.
> Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant’s Mointain

[Wesley]

Apparently the actual steepest road mile in California is nearby: Mix 
Canyon Road, which ascends Mt. Vaca. I found this out after I rode up and 
wondered whether it just seemed extra steep to me because I live in the 
flat Central Valley.
-Wes

On Friday, April 12, 2024 at 8:11:31 AM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:

> For those of you living in the Bay Area, which is the steepest, longest 
> climb, the one up Mt. Diablo or the one up Mt. Hamilton?
>
> On Friday, April 12, 2024 at 9:07:51 AM UTC-5 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>
>> Another photo from the upcoming “36 Views of Mt Diablo.” Taken this 
>> morning on my way to San Francisco for a ride around the Bay. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Looking to buy: V brakes and levers

[Wesley]

Whoops, forgot the 
link: 
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=107924=37

On Friday, April 12, 2024 at 12:27:27 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> You can't get better value than these: $33 for brakes, levers, cables, and 
> housing. I use them on my commuter and they're perfectly cromulent.
> -W
>
> On Friday, April 12, 2024 at 8:35:55 AM UTC-7 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>> I’m building up a vintage MTB frame. Looking for decent v brakes with 
>> levers. Nothing too expensive as this is a cheap frame. Thanks. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Looking to buy: V brakes and levers

[Wesley]

You can't get better value than these: $33 for brakes, levers, cables, and 
housing. I use them on my commuter and they're perfectly cromulent.
-W

On Friday, April 12, 2024 at 8:35:55 AM UTC-7 Hoch in ut wrote:

> I’m building up a vintage MTB frame. Looking for decent v brakes with 
> levers. Nothing too expensive as this is a cheap frame. Thanks. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

[Wesley]

For folks who want a higher rise on these stems, my setup combines a 
super-tall quill-to-threadless adapter 
(https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/soma-high-rider-xl-quill-28-6-22-2-290mm-4984)
 
with a 1990s Trek "System 2" stem (for 
instance: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/hT8AAOSwzWBi7UKa/s-l400.jpg) which 
are often available on eBay. I think there are "System 1" and "System 3" of 
similar lengths, too (mine is 150mm).
-Wes

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 3:43:41 PM UTC-7 Jordan Rosenblum wrote:

> Not unlike other folks, I found the width of the Ortho's demanded a longer 
> stem than I use with Bosco and Tosco bars. Another option that I think sits 
> somewhere between a face-plater and other single bolt stems are the Ritchey 
> Force made by Nitto stems of the 90's, which you can occasionally find in 
> even longer lengths. They are steel with a single bolt—and very pretty. The 
> downside is that they don't have a ton of rise. As the poster above 
> mentions, I have successfully used a Ritchey 25.4 clamp diameter stem with 
> the 26.0 Ortho's, which were very secure—though I don't presume any 
> knowledge of whether this is long-term safe. 
>
> I saw this post just as I was prepping a for-sale post of similar stems on 
> another forum. If Chris or other folks are interested, the following are up 
> for grabs, I am going to create a new post so that I don't derail the 
> thread. These include a 120mm 25.4 faceplate stem, Ritchey 25.4 stems in 
> 150 and 170mm(),  and a Ritchey 135mm, 26.0 (might be what you're 
> looking for). Regardless, if you don't need a long steering column, I 
> highly recommend the Ritchey Force stems if you can scrounge up the size 
> that would work for you.
>
> Jordan in Portland, Oregon
>
> [image: IMG_6005.jpg]
> [image: IMG_6011.jpg]
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:39:02 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> For what it is worth Ron used 25.4 clamp size stems and claims & claims 
>> they work great. Got to spread that clamp I guess.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 11, 2024, at 12:09 PM, El Sapo  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Wish I would have understood the issues with the 26 mm handlebar clamp 
>> prior to purchasing the Ortho Bar. No megusta.The pics posted by iamKeith 
>> don’t show that his hair, beard, and hip vibe are much greater riding the 
>> bike with ortho bars.
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:50:27 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you all for the pics and advice! Very helpful.
>>>
>>> I'm putting these bars on a 1985 Trek 870. As Riv says on their 
>>> cardboard geo charts "don't obsess", but geometrically this old frame is 
>>> not terribly far off some Riv models, setting aside, of course, bb drop and 
>>> stack (1985 Trek 870: 21.8" frame, 71º hta, 71.5º sta, 58.0 tt, 48.5 cs, 
>>> 5.0 drop, 52.7 stack, 40.6 reach).
>>>
>>> My current set-up is Choco bars and an 8cm Dirt Drop. The height feels 
>>> fine, just slightly above saddle height, and the reach isn't bad either but 
>>> could be ~1" longer. I'm fairly upright but can lean in and grip forward as 
>>> needed. I just like the idea of more width and more flare.
>>>
>>> Are these details helpful? I'm maybe leaning toward the 135mm Faceplater 
>>> based on your replies, but that does seem long!
>>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>>>
 [image: IMG_9267.jpeg]I’ve got these bars lined up for my Appaloosa 
 build. 
 My local bike shop had a NOS Velo Orange Grand Cru stem in 120mm that 
 looks pretty perfect. It’s 26.0, and having no rise should be slightly 
 longer in reality than its length number suggests. I’m hoping that the 
 wider clamp section will help it to grip the bars well too, despite the 
 single bolt. 


 On Monday 11 March 2024 at 03:33:24 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:

> Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem 
> advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame 
> factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are 
> generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:
>
> - Faceplater 110mm
> - Faceplater 135mm
> - Tallux 12cm
>
> Will the 110 Faceplater be too short?
>
 -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: How do I know when a saddle fits?

[Wesley]

I just want to preface that I am confused but in no way mad:
I made a couple of replies in this thread that were deleted by the 
moderator(s) and I am confused as to why. Apparently I broke some group 
rule(?) and I'd like to avoid doing so in the future so would appreciate 
getting some guidance from the mods. Thanks!
-Wes

On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 8:46:29 PM UTC-7 Emily Guise wrote:

> Hey all, thanks so much for your insights! I'm local to Portland OR, and 
> there is a bike fitter in town, Pedal PT, who also does physical therapy. 
> I've been wondering if I should get a fit with them, and it seems like I 
> should look into it more seriously.
>
> My travel/adventure/distance bike is a Bike Friday, and that's the one I'd 
> get fit. I do tend to like the flatter saddles, and usually ride with the 
> nose titled up. A challenge is that I have very long arms and legs but a 
> shorter torso. Anyone with a similar body type have any advice?
>
> I have tried women's specific saddles- I tried a Terry Liberator for a 
> while, but it was just SO hard, even though the cutout was fantastic. The 
> same with the Brookses, I always felt like I was sitting on the metal edge 
> or the leather was as unforgiving as wood and as uncomfortable. I'm trying 
> out Riv's new plastic saddle on my Platypus right now. It's sort of 
> comfortable but also feels maybe not quite wide enough. I'll have to give 
> it a few more weeks. 
>
>
> On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 7:22:12 AM UTC-7 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> Roberta, have you experimented with a cut-out saddle? 
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 26, 2024 at 12:20 AM Roberta  wrote:
>>
>>> The Philadelphia Trek store can measure sits bones. Perhaps there is one 
>>> near you to give you some direction?
>>>
>>> I prefer a flat top like the B68 to a rounder top B17. I also have wide 
>>> sits bones, so B17 too narrow for me.   I tilt the saddle nose up, so I’m 
>>> sitting on the flat back part of the saddle.  Otherwise I slide to the 
>>> front sitting on the nose part, and that is very irritating.  Where are you 
>>> sitting on the saddle?
>>>
>>> Also take notice where the seams of your underwear are when you’re 
>>> riding as sit bones on seams are irritating. 
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>> Philadelphia 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 4:00:24 PM UTC-4 Emily Guise wrote:
>>>
 Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a 
 saddle that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always 
 ended up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really 
 limited my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the 
 C canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a 
 saddle that won't hurt. 

 I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic, 
 cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of 
 the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a 
 central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for 
 around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured. 

 It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly 
 comfortable long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I 
 figured I'd ask the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it 
 "disappear"? Was it love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot 
 before finding the ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you 
 ride before it becomes uncomfortable? 

 I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look 
 for in the next saddle I try out. Thanks! 


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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: How do I know when a saddle fits?

[Wesley]

If you've thought leather saddles felt too hard and wooden, I recommend 
going for an aggressive break-in that breaks the rules you'll often hear 
about being minimal with anything you put on the saddle. So if you still 
have a Brooks that you thought was uncomfortable, here is what I do to 
break them in fast and soft:

- Work mink oil into the leather with all your strength, alternating 
between massaging it in with your thumbs and then flexing the leather up 
and down between your fingers. Really soften it up, focussing on the 
sit-bone areas.
- Give the saddle a deep soak and then ride it wet. It will stretch and 
soften immediately, and very quickly begin to adapt to your shape.

Some folks say to avoid stuff like this because it makes the leather 
stretch, but in my opinion that stretched and well-softened leather is what 
makes a leather saddle comfortable. Maybe they wear out faster (I haven't 
worn one out after five years) but even so, a comfy saddle that you wear 
out is better than a painful saddle that you never use.
-Wes

On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 8:46:29 PM UTC-7 Emily Guise wrote:

> Hey all, thanks so much for your insights! I'm local to Portland OR, and 
> there is a bike fitter in town, Pedal PT, who also does physical therapy. 
> I've been wondering if I should get a fit with them, and it seems like I 
> should look into it more seriously.
>
> My travel/adventure/distance bike is a Bike Friday, and that's the one I'd 
> get fit. I do tend to like the flatter saddles, and usually ride with the 
> nose titled up. A challenge is that I have very long arms and legs but a 
> shorter torso. Anyone with a similar body type have any advice?
>
> I have tried women's specific saddles- I tried a Terry Liberator for a 
> while, but it was just SO hard, even though the cutout was fantastic. The 
> same with the Brookses, I always felt like I was sitting on the metal edge 
> or the leather was as unforgiving as wood and as uncomfortable. I'm trying 
> out Riv's new plastic saddle on my Platypus right now. It's sort of 
> comfortable but also feels maybe not quite wide enough. I'll have to give 
> it a few more weeks. 
>
>
> On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 7:22:12 AM UTC-7 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> Roberta, have you experimented with a cut-out saddle? 
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 26, 2024 at 12:20 AM Roberta  wrote:
>>
>>> The Philadelphia Trek store can measure sits bones. Perhaps there is one 
>>> near you to give you some direction?
>>>
>>> I prefer a flat top like the B68 to a rounder top B17. I also have wide 
>>> sits bones, so B17 too narrow for me.   I tilt the saddle nose up, so I’m 
>>> sitting on the flat back part of the saddle.  Otherwise I slide to the 
>>> front sitting on the nose part, and that is very irritating.  Where are you 
>>> sitting on the saddle?
>>>
>>> Also take notice where the seams of your underwear are when you’re 
>>> riding as sit bones on seams are irritating. 
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>> Philadelphia 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 4:00:24 PM UTC-4 Emily Guise wrote:
>>>
 Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a 
 saddle that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always 
 ended up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really 
 limited my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the 
 C canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a 
 saddle that won't hurt. 

 I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic, 
 cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of 
 the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a 
 central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for 
 around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured. 

 It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly 
 comfortable long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I 
 figured I'd ask the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it 
 "disappear"? Was it love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot 
 before finding the ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you 
 ride before it becomes uncomfortable? 

 I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look 
 for in the next saddle I try out. Thanks! 


 -- 
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>>>  
>>> 

Re: [RBW] Re: How do I know when a saddle fits?

[Wesley]

Hey Emily,
I'm also a long legs, short torso person. My experience is that I need to 
use a ridiculously tall stem with a short extension, but that doesn't 
really apply in your case because the Bike Friday stem must already have 
odd proportions.

More importantly, if your complaint with Brooks saddles has been their 
hardness, I'd advise breaking all the rules of breaking-in a leather 
saddle. Work mink oil into the leather until it softens. Give the saddle a 
deep soak and ride it wet. You want to really get the leather stretching 
and softening. It's how I like my leather saddles and they do still last 
for many years (I've had mine for five years and I don't see any evidence 
it is wearing out.) It really makes a big difference and the saddle will 
start adapting to your shape in the first few rides.

I hope this helps!
-Wes

On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 8:46:29 PM UTC-7 Emily Guise wrote:

> Hey all, thanks so much for your insights! I'm local to Portland OR, and 
> there is a bike fitter in town, Pedal PT, who also does physical therapy. 
> I've been wondering if I should get a fit with them, and it seems like I 
> should look into it more seriously.
>
> My travel/adventure/distance bike is a Bike Friday, and that's the one I'd 
> get fit. I do tend to like the flatter saddles, and usually ride with the 
> nose titled up. A challenge is that I have very long arms and legs but a 
> shorter torso. Anyone with a similar body type have any advice?
>
> I have tried women's specific saddles- I tried a Terry Liberator for a 
> while, but it was just SO hard, even though the cutout was fantastic. The 
> same with the Brookses, I always felt like I was sitting on the metal edge 
> or the leather was as unforgiving as wood and as uncomfortable. I'm trying 
> out Riv's new plastic saddle on my Platypus right now. It's sort of 
> comfortable but also feels maybe not quite wide enough. I'll have to give 
> it a few more weeks. 
>
>
> On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 7:22:12 AM UTC-7 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> Roberta, have you experimented with a cut-out saddle? 
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 26, 2024 at 12:20 AM Roberta  wrote:
>>
>>> The Philadelphia Trek store can measure sits bones. Perhaps there is one 
>>> near you to give you some direction?
>>>
>>> I prefer a flat top like the B68 to a rounder top B17. I also have wide 
>>> sits bones, so B17 too narrow for me.   I tilt the saddle nose up, so I’m 
>>> sitting on the flat back part of the saddle.  Otherwise I slide to the 
>>> front sitting on the nose part, and that is very irritating.  Where are you 
>>> sitting on the saddle?
>>>
>>> Also take notice where the seams of your underwear are when you’re 
>>> riding as sit bones on seams are irritating. 
>>>
>>> Roberta
>>> Philadelphia 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 4:00:24 PM UTC-4 Emily Guise wrote:
>>>
 Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a 
 saddle that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always 
 ended up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really 
 limited my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the 
 C canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a 
 saddle that won't hurt. 

 I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic, 
 cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of 
 the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a 
 central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for 
 around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured. 

 It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly 
 comfortable long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I 
 figured I'd ask the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it 
 "disappear"? Was it love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot 
 before finding the ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you 
 ride before it becomes uncomfortable? 

 I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look 
 for in the next saddle I try out. Thanks! 


 -- 
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>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a93cb530-6ec0-4fcd-894a-868948892b91n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rosco Platypus - 60cm - $1600

[Wesley]

Hey Erik, please help us out by saying where you and the Rosco Platy live. 
Thanks!
-Wes

On Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 8:34:31 AM UTC-7 Erik wrote:

> If this one is no longer available, I have a 60cm Rosco Platy complete or 
> frame I am getting ready to post for sale.  
>
> On Thursday, March 28, 2024 at 10:02:23 PM UTC-7 snipp...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Did you sell this? 
>>
>> On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 10:58:22 AM UTC-8 benjamin...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Parting ways with my nearly new Rosco Platypus. Located in Chicago. More 
>>> pictures available upon request.
>>>
>>> Deore 11-speed crankset (32t/175mm crankarms)
>>> Deore 11-speed derailleur
>>> Deore 11-speed cassette (11-42)
>>> Deore 11-speed chain
>>> Microshift 11-speed thumbie
>>> Deore v-brakes/levers
>>> SKS b65 fenders
>>> Continental 700x50mm tires
>>> Ergon GC1 grips
>>> 65cm Rivendell Tosco bars with Nitto 31.8mm quill stem (4-bolt/removable 
>>> faceplate)
>>> Alex DM21 rims w/novatec hubs[image: IMG_1489.jpg]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: I have questions

[Wesley]

When I go on a two day ride, I just put my phone in airplane mode. It (a 
five-year-old iPhone) will stay charged for more than a week that way. When 
I need to use it for anything other than a camera, I take it off airplane 
mode. As Max suggested, you can also carry an external battery for charging 
in a pinch.
-Wes
On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 6:10:14 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I have had some of the same questions tumbling about in my brain as I wait 
> for the last of the parts for my Gravel & Travel Platy. I just got back 
> from a warm and delightful weekend of cycling in Philadelphia. I, a newly 
> minted Michigander, was happy to return to the shire, and for that, I was 
> welcomed with Second Winter. 
>
> Michigan is over here, doing me dirty. 
>
> I’m prevailing upon you to humor me and answer my questions, because a lot 
> of you are having spring and flowers and sunshine, so this is the least you 
> could do!
>
> I got the 50 cm Platy to take on trips. Will fit in the van better, will 
> fit on Amtrak, be easier to shove in elevators, that sort of thing. But the 
> tires I have on hand are 48 mm Gravel Kings. They are almost new. I’m 
> considering taking a train to a ride this summer, but that means no Racing 
> Platypus, only the purple one can fit. Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road 
> ride pace? I have 42 on all my other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is 
> a 2 day event, 100 miles total. I’d like to keep the tires if I could, 
> because they’re new and they are fat enough to also double as gravel tires, 
> should I decide to do a gravel ride again. But I do more road rides than 
> anything else, and if those 48s will cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. 
> What’s the consensus?
>
> Basket straps. I have the Nitto Basket Rack and even though I’ve disliked 
> it in the past, I figure it’s pretty and I already own it and I might need 
> a front rack for travel. But do I really have to put the ugly strap from 
> bar to basket? Is the Nitto Basket Rack safer than the Mark’s Rack? I know 
> Sergio was thrown when his Mark’s Rack loosened and hit the front tire and 
> he’s missing significant chunks of front teeth! What is everyone doing 
> about their front racks?
>
> Lights. I have an Edelux light. It’s not the right color for this build, 
> but it’s perfectly good. But sometimes I think, “wouldn’t it be nice to 
> have a light that would charge your phone?” The Sinewave Beacon 2 will do 
> just that, but it sounds like it’s not a great road light. What are people 
> using to charge phones on long rides away from home?
>
> I ordered my wheels today. This, because J at the Velocity booth in Philly 
> talked me into them when he heard about the theme of my build. Here’s a 
> sneak peek.
>
> And thanks for helping me out here! It’s good to hear people’s experiences 
> and points of view!
> Leah
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How do I know when a saddle fits?

[Wesley]

On my most comfortable saddle, I generally start noticing irritation of the 
skin over my sit bones after about 5 hours. Obviously, that's only an issue 
on long rides. This is a well-broken-in Brooks, but it was fairly 
comfortable since new (I worked some flex into the sit bone areas by 
massaging it with mink oil.) I am not expecting to ever have a saddle that 
is painless no matter how long I ride, and I generally don't wear padded 
shorts.
-Wes

On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 1:00:24 PM UTC-7 Emily Guise wrote:

> Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a saddle 
> that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always ended 
> up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really limited 
> my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the C 
> canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a 
> saddle that won't hurt. 
>
> I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic, 
> cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of 
> the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a 
> central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for 
> around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured. 
>
> It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly comfortable 
> long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I figured I'd ask 
> the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it "disappear"? Was it 
> love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot before finding the 
> ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you ride before it 
> becomes uncomfortable? 
>
> I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look for 
> in the next saddle I try out. Thanks! 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting Issues with my Old Clem

[Wesley]

Sounds like an issue my wife had about a year ago. We tried a lot of random 
ideas, like snugging up the cassette lockring (on the theory that the cogs 
were loose and wobbling a bit). In the end, a new chain made the shifting 
work perfectly again. Good luck.
-Wes

On Wednesday, March 13, 2024 at 8:40:52 PM UTC-7 Vincent Tamer wrote:

> I have an on going issue with my friction shifting setup on my 2016 
> complete Clem.
>
> I believe this will be my third cassette replacement now. Each time the 
> two smallest cogs are damaged/stripped for some reason, so that when I 
> pedal there is some crunching & ghost shifting. I cannot pedal with full 
> force on the first two gears.
>
> I’ve had issues with this since day one and I have a feeling it is due to 
> the 2016 complete clem’s shifting setup even though I’ve had it adjusted 
> and have explained to two different bike technicians.
>
> The shifter setup is odd, Riv even commented on how it was a little 
> strange in the Clem intro Pdf that was floating around for the longest time 
> (cannot find it now). I'm hoping someone knows what I'm talking about!
>
> These suntour shifters are set up in a reverse position and that they have 
> some kind of ratcheting mech in them. The clicks don’t always coincide with 
> a shift and maybe that has created some bad friction shifting form on my 
> part. Outside of that I’m at a loss for why I am having issues with 
> stripped cogs. 
>
> I’m considering switching to an indexed set up even though I don’t want to 
> but before I do, does any one have any wisdom they can shed on this 
> situation? Thank you!
>
> Pics are attached, of the whole bike (for fun) and of the shifter. I'll 
> grab some shots of the gears as well when I can.[image: 
> DSCF7718_sml.jpg][image: 
> shifter.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: "Grant hates toe clips."

[Wesley]

I have SPD mountain pedals on my road bike and tandem. They're very 
important for the tandem, because so much communication happens through the 
pedals. They're less essential for the road bike. I have flat pedals on my 
main (commuter) bike, but bought flat cycling shoes for my rides because 
they have stiffer soles. Chaos (my everyday footwear) are flexible enough 
at the ball of the foot that the pressure was focused on a smallish area, 
and my feet would go numb on long rides.

On Sunday, December 24, 2023 at 5:44:43 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> First entry in new Blahg. And no, he doesn't; he reports someone's 
> out-of-context judgment.
>
> But I'm curious how many on this RBW list like and use retention and how 
> many don't; and of the former, how many use toe clips and how many use 
> clipless systems -- and what kind.
>
> I'll start: I rode fast for years and thousands of miles in Keds with 
> thick, soft soles and then rubber-soled lace ups of other sorts on 
> un-clipped rat-trap pedals (and even rubber block pedals) until in about 
> 1990 I got my first relatively expensive road bike (1989 Falcon, tout 531C 
> with Sante group) and decided largely because of bike mag content that I'd 
> better get with the retention program. I started with Bata Bikers and clips 
> and straps, graduated to clips and straps and slotted cleats, then pretty 
> quickly switched to the burgeoning varieties of clipless -- Sampson 
> Stratics, Grafton "Erector Set" road and mtb pedals, Speedplay X1s and 
> Frogs, Looks of various sorts, and finally SPDs, road and mtb (by "road" I 
> mean the ones that came out for about 1 season long long ago with the mtb 
> mechanism). 
>
> A couple of years ago I tried platforms with spikes and no-retention shoes 
> but after about a month of annoyance always shifting my foot to find the 
> right position I gave up and went back to SPDs. I've got SPDs on all my 
> bikes though I've got a very nice set of XC Pros + clips and straps + 
> almost-as-new wood-soled Duegis with cleats that I'd like to try -- I found 
> slotted cleats with semi-tight straps easier with a fixed drivetrain than 
> Look Keos -- except that SPDs are so perfect.
>
> So, I've round that having gotten used to retention I find it very hard to 
> give it up. I daresay that this habituation is stronger since so much of my 
> riding is on fixed drivetrains, but I'd still want at least clips and 
> loose-ish straps with rubber soles for any freewheel drivetrain.
>
> But again, SPDs just feel so perfect that I will probably just stay with 
> them.
>
> Best wishes to all for the Christmas season.
>
> Patrick Moore, finishing up a late resume on Xmas eve in ABQ, NM.
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[Wesley]

Hey Patrick,
Maybe you've already completed your two-speed conversion, but if not, there 
is some useful info in yesterday's Bikesnob 
blog: https://bikesnobnyc.com/2023/11/29/dingle-all-the-way/

The key message is that the Surly single-speed cogs are thicker at the base 
so you could use one for your second cog without needing a spacer. It 
should allow the lockring to fit.
-Wes

On Sunday, October 29, 2023 at 12:42:39 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Excellent! Thank you! So there is serendipity in that the lockring threads 
> match standard fw threads. Very good to know.
>
> Now I can simply overhaul that cheap ss freehub -- Redline? -- and don't 
> have to spend $$$ for a DOS; *also* I can use the current 32 t ring with 
> an outer, screw-on 15 t cog for a 65" cruising gear and buy a splined ss 17 
> or perhaps even 18 t cog for a 57" or even 54" sand bogging gear -- if, 
> that is, a QR disc rear wheel allows this.
>
> On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 9:49 AM Wesley  wrote:
>
>> Hi Patrick!
>> I don't remember the hub, and I searched my email for hubs I bought in 
>> 2009 – I was only able to find the one I built into the front wheel. 
>> However! This exercise show something loose in my head and I now recall how 
>> I made the monocog into a two-speed (before whatever I did to add a third 
>> cog). I replaced the locking by a fixed-gear cog. Here's a text diagram:
>>
>> Your current setup has: spokes - spacer - splined cog - lockring
>>
>> Change it to: spokes - splined cog - spacer - threaded cog
>>
>> I hope this helps!
>> -Wes
>>
>> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 9:51:46 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Do you recall the hub you used with the unicycle rim? I seem to recall 
>>> BMX freehubs that had room for 2 cogs.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 9:16 PM Wesley  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yeah, it looks marginal to get a second cog in there with a narrower 
>>>> spacer. According to Sheldon Brown, 9-speed cogs want a 2.54 mm spacer 
>>>> between the cogs: https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html
>>>>
>>>> I now remember that my monocog became a three speed after I built it a 
>>>> pair of winter wheels (I used a pair of very wide unicycle rims for 
>>>> maximum 
>>>> float). So I probably kept the original when intact and built a new hub 
>>>> into the new wheel. Sorry for not remembering, the bike has been out of my 
>>>> life for about eight years.
>>>>
>>>> -W
>>>> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 1:17:17 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Wesley: Sorry, I missed this post in the thread volume.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm pretty sure that my Monocog's freehub body takes only 1 cog; see 
>>>>> photo with single 3/32" cog and 2.5mm spacer: the splines end right after 
>>>>> the spacer.
>>>>>
>>>>> Am I looking at things right? I hesitate to remove the wheel because 
>>>>> getting the tire exactly centered in the chainstays, with 2-3 mm 
>>>>> clearance 
>>>>> a side and the inevitable tire runout, while also adjusting chain tension 
>>>>> is a pain.
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: image.png]
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 3:56 PM Wesley  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hey Patrick,
>>>>>> My recollection of my monocog was that the freehub had room for three 
>>>>>> cogs. I think there were spacers on the hub that covered up most of the 
>>>>>> free hub - remove the locking and you can do adjust the spacers as 
>>>>>> necessary. If yours is the same, then you could just keep that wheel and 
>>>>>> put the additional cogs onto it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And, in case I wasn't clear in my earlier response, I think there is 
>>>>>> plenty of adjustment room in the disc brakes to accommodate the rear 
>>>>>> axle 
>>>>>> being adjusted in the dropout.
>>>>>> -Wes
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 10:44:19 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That's interesting, and after blundering into a few search result 
>>>>>>> pages about money markets and currency conversion I got:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://www.monebikes.com/read-me/
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>

[RBW] Re: Anna Purple

[Wesley]

Purple is the best color, and this is a great purple. I love it.
-W

On Friday, November 17, 2023 at 6:34:41 AM UTC-8 Tim Bantham wrote:

> Curious what folks think of the Riv frames in purple. I personally am on 
> the fence. I keep looking at it and can't decide if I would like it or not. 
> I would be perfectly fine with any of the other Riv colors but the purple 
> is a bit polarizing to me. Of course I am betting it looks great in person. 
> Thoughts? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne fork on a Heron?

[Wesley]

Just FYI, you have more choices than you might think with the fork. If you 
find a fork you like but the steerer is too long, you can still use it!

If the upper race can't thread all the way down to the cup, you can swap 
your headset for a 1" threadless headset, and screw the top nut not the 
fork threads to provide preload to the headset without having to use the 
typical internal nut of a treadless headset. This means you can still use a 
quill stem with a threadless headset! I did this recently with a threaded 
fork having a vry long steerer in order to get my handlebars higher. 
Happy to provide ics later if that would be helpful.
-Wes

On Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 12:22:21 PM UTC-8 h...@chrisdedinsky.com 
wrote:

> This week I was commuting home from work on my Heron. I got a flat on my 
> Challenge Strada Bianca 36 tires and on a whim—certainly inspired by the 
> recent 'Rondini' episode of Ron's bikes YouTube episode—decided to stuff in 
> a pair of much too large 700x42 Hurricane Ridge tires to enjoy until the 
> snow falls. Which should be pretty quick here in British Columbia's 
> southern interior.
>
> The fork clearance is decidedly too tight and perhaps irresponsible, if 
> not dangerous. I'm gonna keep my fenders on as I'm not sure how long this 
> experiment will last. So far a couple of sporting trips back and forth to 
> work. 
>
> It has got me thinking though, has anyone out there modified their Heron 
> to have more modern Riv tire clearances? In the vein of a Sam Hillborne. I 
> was daydreaming about putting a more tolerable fork and crimping the 
> chainstays, so I could run up in the +45 range. Although the rear wheel has 
> much more than a few sheets of paper in clearance and the irrevesability of 
> crimping makes me nervous. 
>
> Would love to hear any thoughts on the pro's/con's. And if there are any 
> extra hillborne forks out there for a ~57 frame, I may be interested. If 
> so, I can give specs. I know I should leave a perfectly wonderful frameset 
> alone, but I can't help but wonder about it. 
>
> Here are some pics that make the fit seem even more dramatic on that front 
> fork. 
>
> [image: IMG_4368.jpg]
> [image: IMG_4363.jpg]
> [image: IMG_4364.jpg]
> [image: IMG_4365.jpg]
> [image: IMG_4366.jpg]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[Wesley]

Hi Patrick!
I don't remember the hub, and I searched my email for hubs I bought in 2009 
– I was only able to find the one I built into the front wheel. However! 
This exercise show something loose in my head and I now recall how I made 
the monocog into a two-speed (before whatever I did to add a third cog). I 
replaced the locking by a fixed-gear cog. Here's a text diagram:

Your current setup has: spokes - spacer - splined cog - lockring

Change it to: spokes - splined cog - spacer - threaded cog

I hope this helps!
-Wes

On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 9:51:46 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Do you recall the hub you used with the unicycle rim? I seem to recall BMX 
> freehubs that had room for 2 cogs.
>
> On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 9:16 PM Wesley  wrote:
>
>> Yeah, it looks marginal to get a second cog in there with a narrower 
>> spacer. According to Sheldon Brown, 9-speed cogs want a 2.54 mm spacer 
>> between the cogs: https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html
>>
>> I now remember that my monocog became a three speed after I built it a 
>> pair of winter wheels (I used a pair of very wide unicycle rims for maximum 
>> float). So I probably kept the original when intact and built a new hub 
>> into the new wheel. Sorry for not remembering, the bike has been out of my 
>> life for about eight years.
>>
>> -W
>> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 1:17:17 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Wesley: Sorry, I missed this post in the thread volume.
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure that my Monocog's freehub body takes only 1 cog; see 
>>> photo with single 3/32" cog and 2.5mm spacer: the splines end right after 
>>> the spacer.
>>>
>>> Am I looking at things right? I hesitate to remove the wheel because 
>>> getting the tire exactly centered in the chainstays, with 2-3 mm clearance 
>>> a side and the inevitable tire runout, while also adjusting chain tension 
>>> is a pain.
>>>
>>> [image: image.png]
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 3:56 PM Wesley  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey Patrick,
>>>> My recollection of my monocog was that the freehub had room for three 
>>>> cogs. I think there were spacers on the hub that covered up most of the 
>>>> free hub - remove the locking and you can do adjust the spacers as 
>>>> necessary. If yours is the same, then you could just keep that wheel and 
>>>> put the additional cogs onto it.
>>>>
>>>> And, in case I wasn't clear in my earlier response, I think there is 
>>>> plenty of adjustment room in the disc brakes to accommodate the rear axle 
>>>> being adjusted in the dropout.
>>>> -Wes
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 10:44:19 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> That's interesting, and after blundering into a few search result 
>>>>> pages about money markets and currency conversion I got:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.monebikes.com/read-me/
>>>>>
>>>>> But he says nothing about adjustable chainstays,
>>>>>
>>>>> Still, he does talk about weird possibilities like 3" tires and drop 
>>>>> bars, so I must investigate.
>>>>>
>>>>> Really, though, to conclude this question, it seems that I can either 
>>>>> have a very simple bike with disc brakes as long as it's a single speed, 
>>>>> or 
>>>>> I can accommodate 2 cogs using some niche, complex technology. I think 
>>>>> I'll 
>>>>> either settle for a fixed drivetrain (no rear brake, no problem) or get 
>>>>> off 
>>>>> and walk. Rear rim brake not option since I want to use disc rims.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 8:44 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne <
>>>>> lionsrug...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have no personal experience with single speed disc nor 
>>>>>> Rocker/Slider or any of the existing dropout configurations being 
>>>>>> discussed 
>>>>>> other than keeping a mental catalogue and casual interest of such things 
>>>>>> as 
>>>>>> I discover them... but what about telescoping chainstays?   
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I recall seeing a few interesting options including a build that Rick 
>>>>>> Hunter did with a bottom bracket positioned wingnut to adjust chain 
>>>>>> tension 
>>>>>> with a form of te

Re: [RBW] Re: Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[Wesley]

Yeah, it looks marginal to get a second cog in there with a narrower 
spacer. According to Sheldon Brown, 9-speed cogs want a 2.54 mm spacer 
between the cogs: https://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

I now remember that my monocog became a three speed after I built it a pair 
of winter wheels (I used a pair of very wide unicycle rims for maximum 
float). So I probably kept the original when intact and built a new hub 
into the new wheel. Sorry for not remembering, the bike has been out of my 
life for about eight years.

-W
On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 1:17:17 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Wesley: Sorry, I missed this post in the thread volume.
>
> I'm pretty sure that my Monocog's freehub body takes only 1 cog; see photo 
> with single 3/32" cog and 2.5mm spacer: the splines end right after the 
> spacer.
>
> Am I looking at things right? I hesitate to remove the wheel because 
> getting the tire exactly centered in the chainstays, with 2-3 mm clearance 
> a side and the inevitable tire runout, while also adjusting chain tension 
> is a pain.
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 3:56 PM Wesley  wrote:
>
>> Hey Patrick,
>> My recollection of my monocog was that the freehub had room for three 
>> cogs. I think there were spacers on the hub that covered up most of the 
>> free hub - remove the locking and you can do adjust the spacers as 
>> necessary. If yours is the same, then you could just keep that wheel and 
>> put the additional cogs onto it.
>>
>> And, in case I wasn't clear in my earlier response, I think there is 
>> plenty of adjustment room in the disc brakes to accommodate the rear axle 
>> being adjusted in the dropout.
>> -Wes
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 10:44:19 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> That's interesting, and after blundering into a few search result pages 
>>> about money markets and currency conversion I got:
>>>
>>> http://www.monebikes.com/read-me/
>>>
>>> But he says nothing about adjustable chainstays,
>>>
>>> Still, he does talk about weird possibilities like 3" tires and drop 
>>> bars, so I must investigate.
>>>
>>> Really, though, to conclude this question, it seems that I can either 
>>> have a very simple bike with disc brakes as long as it's a single speed, or 
>>> I can accommodate 2 cogs using some niche, complex technology. I think I'll 
>>> either settle for a fixed drivetrain (no rear brake, no problem) or get off 
>>> and walk. Rear rim brake not option since I want to use disc rims.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 8:44 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have no personal experience with single speed disc nor Rocker/Slider 
>>>> or any of the existing dropout configurations being discussed other than 
>>>> keeping a mental catalogue and casual interest of such things as I 
>>>> discover 
>>>> them... but what about telescoping chainstays?   
>>>>
>>>> I recall seeing a few interesting options including a build that Rick 
>>>> Hunter did with a bottom bracket positioned wingnut to adjust chain 
>>>> tension 
>>>> with a form of telescoping chainstay (I forget what that particular bike 
>>>> or 
>>>> design was referred to but I think it had a rigid fork, 26+ tires, disc 
>>>> brakes, upright riser Hunter bars, and a cow pattern custom frame bag... 
>>>> in 
>>>> case that helps ID it or dig something up for further review from the 
>>>> interwebs!)  
>>>>
>>>> Another is the design currently used by Cjell Mone of Mone Bikes 
>>>> referred to as the Mone Changer.  I couldn't find an actual page 
>>>> discussing 
>>>> or highlighting the chainstay design itself but believe he builds them 
>>>> into 
>>>> various frames as requested.  Here's a snippet from the FAQ page on his 
>>>> site.
>>>>
>>>> How do I work them Monē Changer dropouts?
>>>>
>>>>  - Remember, there are 5 (not 4, don't forget the caliper adaptor ones) 
>>>> bolts to loosen. To lengthen, sit on the saddle and hold the rear brake, 
>>>> give a couple gentle bounces...that should do it. To shorten, get your 
>>>> chain started on your single speed cog and chainring and pedal it around. 
>>>> straighten the tire in the chainstays and tighten 6 bolts. If you're 
>>>> running gears your penance is putting the bike in the stand, throwing a 
>>

[RBW] Re: New Member New Riv

[Wesley]

I've used the retainer nuts I save from old Presta inner tubes as the 
spacers for getting a clean, consistent gap when mounting a rear fender. 
Works great.
-Wes

On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 6:18:46 AM UTC-7 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> Looks great! If you find yourself wanting to snug up the rear fender line, 
> V/O has a simple kit to do that (you could also get the parts from a 
> hardware store).
>
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/fender-parts/products/spring-thing
>
> Best,
> Scott
>
> On Wednesday, October 25, 2023 at 11:19:47 AM UTC-4 jim.me...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> [image: WIN_20231025_10_45_26_Pro.jpg][image: 
>> WIN_20231025_10_41_35_Pro.jpg]
>> My Joe is finally finished. I plan to tape the bar after the cockpit is 
>> dialed in. I did have a vintage XTR front mech, but it was a top pull and 
>> did not work. Other than that the bike is fantastic. Well - the vintage 
>> Wright saddle, given to me by a neighbor cleaning out his garage, is not 
>> great, but I will give it some time to break in.  This is the first bike I 
>> have ridden in years that is not clip in, and I am impressed with the grip 
>> of the MKS pedals. The IRD brake levers are a joy to operate. Also loving 
>> the dynamo and not having to worry about charging. This bike is my around 
>> town ride. 
>> On Friday, July 21, 2023 at 11:11:46 AM UTC-4 RBW Owners Bunch wrote:
>>
>>> Welcome Jim! I also bought one of the recent Appaloosas. I went with 
>>> Purple and Marks build option. Im glad to hear you’ve received yours as I’m 
>>> eagerly awaiting mine. Make sure to share a pic once it’s built up.
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 21, 2023 at 1:53:32 AM UTC-4 jim.me...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hi this is my first post. My lime green Appaloosa arrived last week and 
 I am looking forward to getting it built and ridden. I plan to use is as 
 my 
 commuter rig. 
 Jim

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Boise to San Francisco bicycle route

[Wesley]

I rode down the Pacific coast about a decade ago, and now live in 
Sacramento. I'd definitely prefer to hit the coast in the north (even 
follow the Columbia to the coast?) or cross the Sierra near Tahoe, rather 
than coming down the Central Valley. Other than that, not a lot to add. Are 
you looking to ride roads the whole way, or use trails/gravel roads?
-Wes

On Monday, October 23, 2023 at 3:07:37 PM UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:

> Hi, I understand that I can use Google or other sources to research a 
> preferable route. But I was wondering if anyone in the group has done all 
> or part of this ride? I"d be curious about routes you chose, etc. 
>
> Thank you for any ideas.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[Wesley]

Ah. Can you not remove the 5mm spacer? That should be enough room for a 
second cog, IMO.
-W

On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 3:02:19 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Not mine, said by seller to be a 2012 model. I have a 5 mm spacer, then 
> the 3/32" cog, and then the lockring threads.
>
> Good to know that the caliper (again, list, almost vertically atop the 
> rotor at top dead center, but actually offset a cm or two forward) can 
> accommodate a bit of fore/aft axle movement.
>
> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 3:56 PM Wesley  wrote:
>
>> Hey Patrick,
>> My recollection of my monocog was that the freehub had room for three 
>> cogs. I think there were spacers on the hub that covered up most of the 
>> free hub - remove the locking and you can do adjust the spacers as 
>> necessary. If yours is the same, then you could just keep that wheel and 
>> put the additional cogs onto it.
>>
>> And, in case I wasn't clear in my earlier response, I think there is 
>> plenty of adjustment room in the disc brakes to accommodate the rear axle 
>> being adjusted in the dropout.
>> -Wes
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 10:44:19 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> That's interesting, and after blundering into a few search result pages 
>>> about money markets and currency conversion I got:
>>>
>>> http://www.monebikes.com/read-me/
>>>
>>> But he says nothing about adjustable chainstays,
>>>
>>> Still, he does talk about weird possibilities like 3" tires and drop 
>>> bars, so I must investigate.
>>>
>>> Really, though, to conclude this question, it seems that I can either 
>>> have a very simple bike with disc brakes as long as it's a single speed, or 
>>> I can accommodate 2 cogs using some niche, complex technology. I think I'll 
>>> either settle for a fixed drivetrain (no rear brake, no problem) or get off 
>>> and walk. Rear rim brake not option since I want to use disc rims.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 8:44 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have no personal experience with single speed disc nor Rocker/Slider 
>>>> or any of the existing dropout configurations being discussed other than 
>>>> keeping a mental catalogue and casual interest of such things as I 
>>>> discover 
>>>> them... but what about telescoping chainstays?   
>>>>
>>>> I recall seeing a few interesting options including a build that Rick 
>>>> Hunter did with a bottom bracket positioned wingnut to adjust chain 
>>>> tension 
>>>> with a form of telescoping chainstay (I forget what that particular bike 
>>>> or 
>>>> design was referred to but I think it had a rigid fork, 26+ tires, disc 
>>>> brakes, upright riser Hunter bars, and a cow pattern custom frame bag... 
>>>> in 
>>>> case that helps ID it or dig something up for further review from the 
>>>> interwebs!)  
>>>>
>>>> Another is the design currently used by Cjell Mone of Mone Bikes 
>>>> referred to as the Mone Changer.  I couldn't find an actual page 
>>>> discussing 
>>>> or highlighting the chainstay design itself but believe he builds them 
>>>> into 
>>>> various frames as requested.  Here's a snippet from the FAQ page on his 
>>>> site.
>>>>
>>>> How do I work them Monē Changer dropouts?
>>>>
>>>>  - Remember, there are 5 (not 4, don't forget the caliper adaptor ones) 
>>>> bolts to loosen. To lengthen, sit on the saddle and hold the rear brake, 
>>>> give a couple gentle bounces...that should do it. To shorten, get your 
>>>> chain started on your single speed cog and chainring and pedal it around. 
>>>> straighten the tire in the chainstays and tighten 6 bolts. If you're 
>>>> running gears your penance is putting the bike in the stand, throwing a 
>>>> foot on the BB and pulling the rim to the front.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Since you are going the custom route for this hypothetical bike I 
>>>> figured I'd add these possibilities to the mix : )
>>>> On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 6:12:06 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thinking out loud; help me clarify my thoughts.
>>>>>
>>>>> I think of devising a Monocog replacement, with 622X76/29X3" wheels, 
>>>>> but instead of a mono cog, with a duo cog. This hypothetical bike would 
>>>>

Re: [RBW] Re: Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[Wesley]

Hey Patrick,
My recollection of my monocog was that the freehub had room for three cogs. 
I think there were spacers on the hub that covered up most of the free hub 
- remove the locking and you can do adjust the spacers as necessary. If 
yours is the same, then you could just keep that wheel and put the 
additional cogs onto it.

And, in case I wasn't clear in my earlier response, I think there is plenty 
of adjustment room in the disc brakes to accommodate the rear axle being 
adjusted in the dropout.
-Wes

On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 10:44:19 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> That's interesting, and after blundering into a few search result pages 
> about money markets and currency conversion I got:
>
> http://www.monebikes.com/read-me/
>
> But he says nothing about adjustable chainstays,
>
> Still, he does talk about weird possibilities like 3" tires and drop bars, 
> so I must investigate.
>
> Really, though, to conclude this question, it seems that I can either have 
> a very simple bike with disc brakes as long as it's a single speed, or I 
> can accommodate 2 cogs using some niche, complex technology. I think I'll 
> either settle for a fixed drivetrain (no rear brake, no problem) or get off 
> and walk. Rear rim brake not option since I want to use disc rims.
>
> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 8:44 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne  
> wrote:
>
>> I have no personal experience with single speed disc nor Rocker/Slider or 
>> any of the existing dropout configurations being discussed other than 
>> keeping a mental catalogue and casual interest of such things as I discover 
>> them... but what about telescoping chainstays?   
>>
>> I recall seeing a few interesting options including a build that Rick 
>> Hunter did with a bottom bracket positioned wingnut to adjust chain tension 
>> with a form of telescoping chainstay (I forget what that particular bike or 
>> design was referred to but I think it had a rigid fork, 26+ tires, disc 
>> brakes, upright riser Hunter bars, and a cow pattern custom frame bag... in 
>> case that helps ID it or dig something up for further review from the 
>> interwebs!)  
>>
>> Another is the design currently used by Cjell Mone of Mone Bikes referred 
>> to as the Mone Changer.  I couldn't find an actual page discussing or 
>> highlighting the chainstay design itself but believe he builds them into 
>> various frames as requested.  Here's a snippet from the FAQ page on his 
>> site.
>>
>> How do I work them Monē Changer dropouts?
>>
>>  - Remember, there are 5 (not 4, don't forget the caliper adaptor ones) 
>> bolts to loosen. To lengthen, sit on the saddle and hold the rear brake, 
>> give a couple gentle bounces...that should do it. To shorten, get your 
>> chain started on your single speed cog and chainring and pedal it around. 
>> straighten the tire in the chainstays and tighten 6 bolts. If you're 
>> running gears your penance is putting the bike in the stand, throwing a 
>> foot on the BB and pulling the rim to the front.
>>
>>
>> Since you are going the custom route for this hypothetical bike I figured 
>> I'd add these possibilities to the mix : )
>> On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 6:12:06 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thinking out loud; help me clarify my thoughts.
>>>
>>> I think of devising a Monocog replacement, with 622X76/29X3" wheels, but 
>>> instead of a mono cog, with a duo cog. This hypothetical bike would have 
>>> disc brakes. I don't want to use a chain tensioner, and I prefer to take 
>>> advantage of the greater gear ratio differences between cogs of different 
>>> sizes compared to rings with the same tooth differences, and of the 
>>> consequent smaller axle movement required to adjust chain slack, so the 
>>> multiple cogs would be in the back and not on the crank.
>>>
>>> On my beloved 1999 Joe Starck Riv Road Custom fixie I use a 17/19 Dingle 
>>> on a Phil hub with a QR axle; it's very easy to stop, flip the QR lever, 
>>> move the chain, align the wheel, and tighten the QR.
>>>
>>> That's what I imagine for the Monocog replacement.
>>>
>>> 1. Disc brakes. But this bike would have disc brakes. I'd probably not 
>>> need more than a 2-t cog difference, but will your typical caliper/rotor 
>>> setup accept the 1/4" axle movement? (1/8" of axle movement is required -- 
>>> so they say; I've never measured it and take it on faith -- to accomodate a 
>>> 1 tooth sprocket difference.)
>>>
>>> 2. Two cogs. How to get 2 cogs onto a suitable "ss" hub with a 
>>> freewheel. The DIngle isn't made anymore and in any event wasn't made -- am 
>>> I right? -- with 2-teeth gaps. The Monocog has a freehub designed to take 1 
>>> single Shimano-spline-type cog; there's no room for a second cog. >>>What 
>>> options does one have to get 2 cogs with a 2-tooth difference onto a hub 
>>> suitable for a QR axle?
>>>
>>> I realize that I could just use an old 7 speed Shimano freehub, and I 
>>> might end up doing that, but I'd prefer to have a hub that does not require 

[RBW] Re: aluminum V steel rear rack

[Wesley]

I'm pretty sure I've only ever had aluminum racks. They take serious abuse 
without complaint.
-Wes

On Monday, October 16, 2023 at 6:47:13 AM UTC-7 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
wrote:

>  
>
>  
>
> Folks,
>
> I outfitted my Waterford Tourer with aluminum rear rack .
>
>  
>
> Load was like 20 pd rear 12 pd front.  Mostly good roads w/ a little 
> gravel for a week
>
>  
>
> I found it handled well. 
>
>  
>
> I have an Indy Fab sport tourer converted to 650b.  I am thinking that 
> aluminum   might work.
>
> Anticipate 1 week of same touring. 
>
>  
>
> What say ye?  
>

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Re: [RBW] Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[Wesley]

When I was using a monocog 29er as my winter bike, I had a triple speed: 
three cogs, three chainrings (the third, lowest gear was used for maximum 
torque to drive through deep snow without bogging down) . All three combos 
added up to the same total teeth but the change in angles was enough that I 
usually had to adjust the wheel in the dropout when changing gears. It 
worked fine with the disc brakes.
-W

On Monday, October 16, 2023 at 11:31:14 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, Dave, good to know about the DOX 2-tooth gap fws.
>
> Back to the question of disc brake and axle movement: the *chain length* will 
> remain the same; the axle will have to move to accommodate different size 
> cogs since I don't want a tensioner.* This of course assumes that one is 
> using horizontal dropouts or track ends; I'd like to stay with that 
> assumption until it is entirely and definitely ruled out.
>
> When moving the chain from a 17 to to a 19 t cog and v/v the axle should 
> have to move only 1/4" or ~6 mm. This movement would be back to front and 
> v/v. 
>
> The rear caliper on the Monocog is  mounted *above* the rotor (actually, 
> it seems to be a wee bit forward of the rotor centerline). Couldn't you 
> mount the caliper at top dead center of the rotor? And if so mounted, the 
> rotor would move only ~3 mm forward or back for a 2-tooth axle shift.
>
> Could the caliper not accommodate a 1/8" or 3 mm movement fore and aft? If 
> I have to specify a particular disc brake, let's just say a cable operated 
> BB7.
>
> I'll think more about the 2 rings/2 cogs arrangement. I could use, say, a 
> 36X17 and 34 X 19 for 65" and 55". And certainly, a vertical dropout would 
> be much easier to use for manual chain shifting than track ends.
>
> Or one could use a kickback hub: 32 X 21 for a 46" gear in direct, 64" in 
> 138% overdrive. 
>
> All in all, I think I prefer the QR and horizontal dropout system, and if 
> disc brakes can't accomodate this then I'll stick to a single speed. [Or, I 
> could go back to a fixed off road bike where I wouldn't need a rear brake; 
> but I rather think I want a freewheel.
>
> *The reason might sound silly but it's a valid one: One reason I took the 
> Monocog in trade was to have a snow bike. We very rarely get enough snow to 
> ride in but we do get a few days per year and I like riding in it. A few 
> years ago I found that wet gummy snow clogged the cassette and rear 
> derailleur of my Matthews and made the chain skip. Thus the thought of 
> getting a snow/sand single speed with 3" tires.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 8:51 PM DavidP  wrote:
>
>> Patrick, I hope I am understanding what you are looking for, but the DOS 
>> freewheels are still made in the two tooth differential versions; it's only 
>> the three tooth differential version (16/19) that was discontinued.
>>
>> I'm not sure if you are looking for DOS freewheels in this situation 
>> though as these are thread on and not splined
>> If you are looking at a different wheelset on this hypothetical bike and 
>> a standard single speed threaded hub then the DOS will work:
>> https://www.whiteind.com/product/double-freewheels
>>
>> Regarding disc brakes, to Eric's point I know of no way to have the quick 
>> change of gearing you are looking for with non constant chain length and a 
>> rear disc. Most single speed disc options that carry the disc with the 
>> wheel use sliding or swinging dropouts but these are not really something 
>> you want to be adjusting on the fly.
>>
>> A double chainring setup really is the simplest. It's a quick change and 
>> adds a few seconds to the process.
>>
>> If you adopt a constant chain length dual ring/cog setup, sliding 
>> dropouts (or an EBB) make the change even quicker as you just drop the 
>> wheel, swap the cog/ring and reinsert.
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 10:19:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, but I don't want that complication. I want (if I can get it) the 
>>> simplicity of my Riv customer gofast: QR rear hub, Dingle cog, long 
>>> horizontal dropouts. I don't necessarily need these means but I do want the 
>>> same end.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 4:31 PM Eric Daume  wrote:
>>>
 The simplest solution is to also use two chainrings, matching the cog 
 difference (for instance, with a 16/18 Dos freewheel, use 42 and 44t 
 chainrings). Then the 44/16 and 42/18 have the same chain length, and the 
 rotor to pad relationship doesn't change.

 Or just use a disc front and a rim brake rear, and a forward facing 
 horizontal dropout (like typical UJBs have)

 Eric

 On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 6:12 PM Patrick Moore  
 wrote:

> Thinking out loud; help me clarify my thoughts.
>
> I think of devising a Monocog replacement, with 622X76/29X3" wheels, 
> but instead of a mono cog, with a duo cog. This hypothetical bike would 
> have disc brakes. I don't want to use a chain 

[RBW] Re: Carrying groceries on your bike

[Wesley]

Include me in the pannier party. Once I felt I had reached the limit of 
safe riding with a Costco run (low-speed shimmies, though everything was 
smooth and stable at "speed".) Got home and weighed the load, it was 55 
pounds. Rear rack only, Ortlieb "city" panniers.
-Wes

On Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 6:28:42 PM UTC-7 Paul in Dallas wrote:

>
>
> I know this probably has been discussed before.
>
> If you use your bike for such errands what is your method of transporting 
> groceries or other items?
>
> I have one bike with a rack and a large Wald basket that can handle a 
> couple bags of groceries but sometimes as I rotate through my bikes I use 
> the method pictured below of tying cloth sacks around the handlebar 
> balancing the load.
>
> I think this can be a risky method.
>
> I need to find some decent grocery panniers.
>
> Today I weighed these 2 sacks in bathroom scales.
>
> Dang...36.2 pounds. Glad it was only 2 miles return trip .
>
> Paul in Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Wesley]

In fact, I think it was Grant (or maybe Sheldon Brown?) who turned me onto 
the idea that wide tires are great, especially when they're NOT knobby. For 
the past 15 years, it's been Panaracer Paselas for my road bike and 
Schwalbe Big Apple/Fat Frank for my commute/errand bike. The idea that 
there are noticeable gains to be had from tubeless or RH tires seems like 
pure hype to me, but I may be wrong. Certainly the Schwalbe tires are crazy 
heavy and that must affect my acceleration. But once I'm up to speed, I 
doubt it matters.
-Wes

On Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 8:41:57 AM UTC-7 Jeremy Till wrote:

> I doubt that Grant was intentionally designing his bikes specifically to 
> handle better with knobbier tires. I think it's more a product of his own 
> views of how a bike should handle and the tires that were available/common 
> at the time he designed the bike. On the first point, he's written a few 
> times defending the virtues of geometric trail, perhaps as a response to 
> challenges from Jan-Heine-o-philes who wanted him to design a low trail 
> bike. On the second point, most of the tires we're discussing were nothing 
> but a twinkle in Jan Heine or Panaracer's eyes when the Rambouillet was 
> designed, and I think it probably handles best with 28-32mm road tires 
> because that was considered downright obese for a road bike at the time. 
> For the Clem, certainly that was designed closer to the contemporary golden 
> age of fat tires, but I still remember most of the prototypes wearing 
> something like a Schwalbe Big Ben, which has more of a blockier tread that 
> probably reduces pneumatic trail compared to something like an RH slick. 
>
> Jeremy Till 
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On Monday, October 2, 2023 at 6:46:34 PM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Jeremy,
>>
>> You make a good point about the geometric and pneumatic trail and the 
>> possibility that Grant designed his frames around a knobbier, more general 
>> purpose, tire thus building the frames with more geometric trail. I’d love 
>> to ask Grant that question to know if it was happy coincidence that they 
>> ended up that way or if the design choice was really that intentional.
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 4:22 PM Jeremy Till  wrote:
>>
>>> On my Rivendells I've noticed that, irrespective of the surface I'm 
>>> riding on, I actually prefer the handling with larger knobby tires than 
>>> with larger slick tires. This is true on both my Clem H (2016, first-gen) 
>>> with 45-55mm tires and my Rambouillet (green, ~2006 as far as I can tell) 
>>> with 36-38mm tires. My explanation for this is that Grant tends to design 
>>> bikes with larger geometric trail. When you add in the pneumatic trail of 
>>> larger slick tires, the whole thing can feel harder to turn. Knobby tires 
>>> give you the same shock absorption while putting less rubber on the 
>>> pavement, thus reducing the pneumatic trail. Jan Heine has noted this 
>>> effect himself when comparing knobby and slick versions of his tires. 
>>>
>>> My Rambouillet current wears RH (actually Compass, they're a few years 
>>> old) Steilacoom 700x38 knobbies. My Clem H has 29x2.2 Specialized Fast 
>>> Traks with the "Control" casing, which is an XC-oriented MTB tire with 
>>> relatively minimal knobs that rolls well on pavement. In my experience 
>>> there is no free lunch when it comes to supple casings and flats. Certainly 
>>> the ride is better with things like the RH standard casing but my rate of 
>>> flatting from glass and thorns goes up. Sealant and tubeless haven't been 
>>> the solution, in my experience, and I run both of my Rivendells with 
>>> tubes.  
>>>
>>> Since Patrick was also mentioning them I will say that I've used both 
>>> the 700x42 and 700x38 versions of the Soma Supple Vitesse EX on my Long 
>>> Haul Trucker, which seems to handle better with large slicks than my 
>>> Rivendells. Those are good tires with an acceptable flat rate for me. I 
>>> also tried the 700x38 SL version on my Rambouillet and found that not only 
>>> did I not like the handling, but the flat rate was excessive for me. Note 
>>> that the only difference between the EX and SL Supple Vitesses is the 
>>> thickness of the tread, with the EX having thicker treads. Unlike RH and 
>>> other brands there is no difference in the casing between the lightweight 
>>> and longer wearing versions. I believe that the Shikiro is the same tread 
>>> as the Supple Vitesse EX with a heavier duty casing.  
>>>
>>> Jeremy Till
>>> Sacramento, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 2, 2023 at 8:26:17 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I’ve had tires on the brain this last week. I was thinking I might want 
 to try something a little narrower on my Appaloosa so I’ve been a bit 
 absorbed with that thought.

 At the moment I run the SimWorks Super Yummy tire with the black 
 sidewall in 29x2.25”. I previously had their 26x2.25” tan wall tires on a 
 26” build and absolutely loved them on 

Re: [RBW] Re: Best mitten design for very cold weather

[Wesley]

Honestly, Bar Mitts brand neoprene pogies are so amazing that I would 
recommend just buying enough pairs that you can put them on each bike. Or 
swapping one pair between bikes as necessary (that can be complicated on 
the drop-bar version, depending on your cable routing). They are far beyond 
any gloves or mittens worn on the hands because they block the cold wind 
without being bulky or interfering with your handling the controls. I have 
fingers that are quite cold-sensitive, and I used Bar Mitts for seven years 
of commuting in Wisconsin winters. On the below-zero days I would only have 
to add a pair of minimalist knitted gloves (the kind they sell for 99 cents 
at the supermarket checkout.) 

Bar Mitts rock.
-Wes 

On Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 8:42:59 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks all again. Now the problem is, there are too many damned choices. 
> My first choice would be that Gander hunters' mitten with the flip-back 
> finger cover but I can't find it online. I'll have to review the other 
> choices again, but right now (probably because I just looked at it) I'm 
> leaning at 45* toward the LLBean Goretex Primaloft mitten because, well 
> because I just looked at it, but also because it's got a bit of a gauntlet 
> but not elbow-length, and it has positive reviews from a Canadian winter 
> runner and (unless he was being sarcastic) someone who said he wore it 
> comfortably in Antartica. And it's only $70, *and *I've meant to try 
> LLBean again after decades; I used to be a good customer.
>
> Hand warmers: thanks for the suggestion, but my very cold weather rides 
> tend to be brief, if only because at 5K feet, once the sun comes up the 
> temperatures also shoot up. So an easy-on/easy off mitten with a wool 
> underglove is a good system for my riding.
>
> I'll have some winter gear for sale shortly: Very nice but slightly too 
> short Wabi Woolens LS jersey professionally and excellently retrofitted 
> with a full-length zipper; a Varusteleka heavy full-zip, high-neck sweater 
> with thumb holes but too heavy for my needs; and some Large little used PI 
> lobster mitts. Watch this space.
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me repair Pam's Silver shifters

[Wesley]

I am frankly amazed at the workout Pam is giving her bike, to wear out 
multiple shifter pawls! I can imagine a few ways to do a repair, none of 
which are "worth it", in terms of resource and money cost (3D printing, 
filing down a bit of aluminum bar, CNC milling). The most expedient fix, 
IMO, would be to epoxy the ratchet gear to the shifter body so that the 
both directions work in friction mode.
-Wes

On Tuesday, September 19, 2023 at 8:02:06 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi all — I'm looking for some neglected, cast off or broken Silver 1 
> shifters to scavenge so that I can repair some broken Silver 1 shifters 
> sent to me by forum member Pam Murray. If you have some you aren't using or 
> that you think are broken which you are willing to send me for the cost of 
> shipping please let me know. I will use them to repair Pam's shifters and 
> get them back to her! 
>
> I recently read enjoyed Pam's thread on broken Silver shifters 
> . 
> And right on time one of my Silvers broke. So I took mine apart to have a 
> look. It turns out the spring was clogged with corrosion and wouldn't 
> compress, allowing for the pawl to hold the ratchet wheel and hold tension 
> on the shifter cable. Luckily the spring and pawl only needed to be cleaned 
> and reassembled. 
>
> Pam sent me three broken Silver shifters. As many of us know, Pam has put 
> tens of thousands of miles on her legendary Betty Foy. She's worn out many 
> parts and she's interested in getting them back into service when possible. 
> I took a look and was able to fix one of the shifters. The other two 
> require new pawls, which I can't locate. 
>
> [image: Screenshot 2023-09-19 at 10.59.05 PM.png]
>
> I reached out to Dia Compe in Taiwan about spare parts. They replied 
> quickly but said they could not send me any bits and pieces and suggested I 
> contact Rivendell. 
>
> So I wrote to Will Keating at Rivendell, who's a wonderfully helpful and 
> nice guy and a friend and he said he'd send me some parts. Well, they 
> arrived today and they're *brand new* Silver 2 levers. I really don't 
> want to destroy brand new shifters to revive old shifters! I'm sure the 
> pawls I need are inside but I can't bring myself to tear them apart. 
> They've very definitely never been installed on a bike. 
>
> I have found some replacement springs from McMaster-Carr 
> . They're heavier gauge wire and 
> slightly longer than the stock springs from Dia Compe. But they fit and 
> they work. They do result in a lever with heavier action but they do not 
> make the lever difficult to operate. 
>
> My plan, once I locate some pawls, is to make a Silver shifter repair and 
> maintenance video. I hope that with donated parts from other members I can 
> fix Pam's shifters, show the process of disassembly, repair and re-assembly 
> and share it with the group (and the rest of the web). I'll include a 
> detailed look of the proper order for all the bits and how the get the 
> shifter closed back up. 
>
> Thanks in advance! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini Shifting Problems

[Wesley]

Hi Cat,
Sorry to hear about your frustrations. The last time this happened to me, I 
futzed with it for too long before giving up and replacing the cassette, 
chain rings, and chain all together. That solved it. Just for the record: 
you have replaced the cracked rim, yes?

As for 1x, in my opinion you should keep the front derailer. Maybe just 
don't shift the front for a while (until you're satisfied that everything 
is working properly at the back).
-Wes

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 7:04:57 PM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:

> Hi RBW group!
>
> My name’s Cat and I posted a few months ago about an earlier iteration of 
> the same problem I’m still having: my Roadini has had trouble shifting both 
> front and rear since I first acquired it over a year ago. I purchased it 
> from the original owner, who had built it up with nice Campy components-- 
> some 
> pictures of the initial setup and the current configuration are below.
>
> It’s set up 2x8, and at first, the front would barely shift to the small 
> ring at all (often not at all), and the chain would pretty frequently jump 
> off if I even lightly overshifted. Then, the rear wheel (Velocity A23) 
> developed a series of large cracks on the rim.
>
> My partner and his dad (who both have Rivs and got me into this mess, 
> haha) tried to fix the problems by first adjusting the limit screws, and 
> when that only made things worse and we discovered the cracked rim, we put 
> on a Shimano cassette, replaced the wheelset with a Shimano-compatible set 
> of A23s, and replaced the chain, on the theory that the original chain was 
> too narrow for the original Campy cassette, letting it slip between the 
> rings. This marginally helped, but still didn’t solve the issues, so then I 
> had my local bike shop put in a wider bottom bracket, because they noticed 
> that the front crank was essentially scraping the front derailleur and 
> couldn’t be adjusted any further— they suggested the bottom bracket 
> replacement.
>
> This didn’t work because on my first real ride post the fixes, (on the OCA 
> coming back from the Tappan Zee for that guy on a Homer who waved!) the 
> front derailleur cage snapped. I was able to ride home, but now I need to 
> at minimum replace my front derailleur, and while I’m at it, would like to 
> fix the larger problems— the rear and front shifting. I love my bike, and 
> tend to ride through issues, but it would be great to be able to shift 
> properly. I’m wondering:
>
> 1) If anyone has any general or specific advice given what I’ve detailed, 
> or any questions that might help diagnose the problem
>
> 2) If anyone in New York would be willing to come take a look at it and 
> try to help figure out the problem— it could be a fun project, and I’m 
> happy to provide refreshments :)
>
> 3) If I do need to switch the entire drivetrain, should I move to a 1x so 
> I don’t run into more front derailleur problems? I tend to ride mostly in 
> my higher gears anyway, so I could just move to a 1x with a wider-range 
> cassette and stick with my 44 in front. I know 1x can come with its own 
> issues, but this might be easier
>
> 4) I’m Italian, and so I have a slight but unavoidable aesthetic 
> preference for sticking with Campy parts; does anyone have thoughts about 
> how I might do this, or should I give up and switch to more standard 
> Shimano or SRAM, which won’t look as nice but might function better
>
> Thanks so much for reading and for any help or advice! I’m kind of at a 
> loss, and would love to ride my beloved Leo without worrying about whether 
> my front derailleur will blow up again.
>
> Cat
>
> [image: IMG_1018.jpg][image: 715737051.jpg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sacramento Ride recommendations

[Wesley]

If you can drive to your ride, then I'd suggest parking at the Yolo Bypass 
Wildlife Area and riding the gravel roads through there. It's beautiful, 
full of wildflowers and migrating birds, and completely flat. If you'd 
prefer terrain, there are a lot of options in the Sierra foothills. One 
good one is to drive to the Quarry Trail and ride it (north of Folsom Lake 
near the confluence of the North and Middle forks of the American River - 
that confluence area is the starting points for a lot of good hiking and 
riding, though bikes generally aren't allowed on the single-track trails.
-Wes

On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 2:04:52 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> The American River Bike Trail is exceptional. If by Northeast Sac you mean 
> one of the suburbs like Citrus Heights or Roseville, then I'd suggest 
> riding Auburn-Folsom Road. There's a lot of mixed terrain to ride on the 
> levees (which al have a gravel road on top and/or to the side) but they get 
> boring very fast (for me). If you can drive to the start of your ride then 
> your options are much greater.
> -Wes
>
> On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 12:41:38 PM UTC-7 Brendan Willard in SF 
> wrote:
>
>> I'll be out in North East Sac this weekend and hope to get a 20-40 mile 
>> ride or two in.  Any musts? Mixed terrain preferred.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Brendan in SF.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sacramento Ride recommendations

[Wesley]

The American River Bike Trail is exceptional. If by Northeast Sac you mean 
one of the suburbs like Citrus Heights or Roseville, then I'd suggest 
riding Auburn-Folsom Road. There's a lot of mixed terrain to ride on the 
levees (which al have a gravel road on top and/or to the side) but they get 
boring very fast (for me). If you can drive to the start of your ride then 
your options are much greater.
-Wes

On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 12:41:38 PM UTC-7 Brendan Willard in SF 
wrote:

> I'll be out in North East Sac this weekend and hope to get a 20-40 mile 
> ride or two in.  Any musts? Mixed terrain preferred.
>
> Thanks,
> Brendan in SF.
>

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Re: [RBW] A College Clem

[Wesley]

The current best value from Surly is the Cross Check, at $1100 for a 
complete.
-W

On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 1:00:16 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:

> The 1x1 isn’t made any more, and they hold their value really well as they 
> seem to be coming somewhat collectible. The replacement is the Lowside, I 
> think it’s about $890 for the frame set. Not really a value play anymore. 
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Friday, August 11, 2023, George Schick  wrote:
>
>> I'll chime in with yet another recommendation (would be my choice if I 
>> were going to be shipping a kid of to a campus in the near future):  a 
>> Surly 1x1. They're single speed frames, rather on the heavy side made from 
>> 4130 chro-moly tubing, powder coated for durability, and can be set up with 
>> a single-speed cog and chainring of your choice.  I currently own one and 
>> use it as my all around utility bike for running short haul errands, etc.  
>> I'm using a Bulletproof BMX crankset, 38-tooth Rocket chainring, and a 
>> Shimano 17-tooth SS freewheel for a 59" gear (perfect for riding around 
>> campus).  You can equip this bike with front and rear disc brakes, though I 
>> would not recommend it for campus use where it can get beat around on an 
>> overloaded bike rack and the discs bent. Instead I'd set it up with 
>> linear-pull F brakes. It comes with a threadless fork/steering tube, 
>> though, so you'd need the right length/angle threadless stem and the right 
>> bars to fit it (I'd recommend the VeloOrange Granola-Moose bar for easy 
>> mounting of the bar with a headlight.  You could pick any hub, rim, and 
>> tire combination you prefer.  Mine has Surly's semi-sealed cartridge hubs 
>> with 28mm rims and 60mm Schwalbe Big Apple balloon tires - again, a perfect 
>> combo for campus riding.
>> A web search shows that there are several LBS's around the GR, MI area 
>> who are Surly dealers so you'd be within reasonable reach of one.  Anyway, 
>> that's my 2¢.
>>
>> PS: I have a 16T White Industries SS freewheel FS if that would work
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 6:47:48 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Wow, this thread has generated a lot of response, and I’ve enjoyed 
>>> reading every post. It’s such a shame we have to go to extremes to avoid 
>>> bike theft - carrying heavy u-locks, being so choosy about parking and 
>>> locking, replacing parts, making the bike ugly, choosing to ride an 
>>> undesirable bike so we can preserve our desirable bike…
>>>
>>> Then there’s the other variable - how careful is the kid going to be 
>>> with the bike? Well, bikes are not precious to him. He likes his bike, sees 
>>> beauty and usefulness in it, but please do not bore him with too many 
>>> details about it. I don’t think he will worry about it like I would; and 
>>> that may lead to carelessness that gets his bike stolen. But also, he has 
>>> the Mr. Magoo-like quality of walking through life blissfully unaware of 
>>> the evil that lurks around every corner and arriving unscathed at his 
>>> destination. 
>>>
>>> The campus in question does not have a lot of bike pirates roaming 
>>> about, although yes, I know they exist everywhere. But they are not 
>>> prolific on this particular campus. I’m still undecided about what bike to 
>>> send, but any bike that goes with him will get skewers that are locked and 
>>> nuts that prevent the theft of stem, saddle and seat post. Hexlox makes all 
>>> these products, if anyone is wondering. We’ll have good u-locks, too. 
>>>
>>> And thanks to Jim for the mention of coverage under homeowners’ 
>>> insurance. I’ll be looking into that for sure. 
>>> Leah
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 7:04:07 PM UTC-4 nlerner wrote:
>>>
 Similar to Mackenzy, I’ve been bike commuting to college campuses for 
 many decades, the last 30 of which have been in the Boston area. I’ve 
 never 
 had a bike stolen likely because (1) I use a decent lock and (2) never 
 park 
 it outside overnight. I have colleagues who would never leave their bikes 
 outside at all and schlep them up to their offices, navigating too small 
 elevators and lots of doorways, but I’ve never seen the need. Sure, bikes 
 get stolen around here all the time, but I’m convinced those are the ones 
 easiest to steal, e.g., unlocked on a porch or in a backyard or part of a 
 larger home break in.

 Now that doesn’t mean I necessarily endorse bringing the Clem to 
 college as it will likely get thoroughly trashed from daily wear and tear 
 (bike racks are not bike-friendly spaces). But I’m also always looking for 
 an excuse to build up a commuter for colleagues.

 Neal Lerner
 Brookline MA

 On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 5:07:52 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> I'm amazed at the amount of discouragement of use of the Clem as a 
> college commuting bike. 
>
> I've worked at universities a good chunk of my life and commuted 

Re: [RBW] Re: A College Clem

[Wesley]

Hi Kim,
The way to measure is from one axle to the other. The maximum measurement 
that will fit on bike racks on Sacramento busses (pretty much identical to 
racks I've used/seen in other cities) is approximately 45".
-Wes
On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 9:14:41 AM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> @ Jonathan -
>
> Does the Clem H and the Clem L have the same wheelbase or not ?
>
> I know my Clem L from the outer length from end to end of the wheels 
> measures close to 80" long. Too long for a bike rack for a transit bus is 
> my belief.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 7:36:47 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> I mean the fallback is to take the smaller Clem H. It will be easier to 
>> get onto public transport bike racks and be easier to slot into a dorm at 
>> night too. The choice doesn't have to be Clem L or total beater. That Clem 
>> H is a killer bike that has slightly less sentimental value if it happens 
>> to get stolen. If it doesn't then he knows he can go with the bigger one 
>> the next semester. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 9:58:42 AM UTC-4 Curtis wrote:
>>
>>> If this is a question of bicycle happiness level (BHL)for a first year 
>>> college student we may be spending more energy on this than we should.  
>>> Difficult to judge the BHL for an 18 y.o. when we are looking at this 
>>> through our rose or not so rose colored glasses.  Who is to say the student 
>>> on the 100 dollar "beater" has a different BHL compared to the student on 
>>> the 2500 dollar bicycle?  
>>>
>>> Perhaps only the rider knows.
>>>
>>> Perhaps we should hope that the student is indifferent about the bicycle 
>>> they ride and are focused on the task at hand.  
>>>
>>> If this bicycle and not that bicycle makes the student happier at 
>>> college then pick this bicycle.
>>>
>>> Peace,
>>> Curtis
>>>
>>> On Wed, Aug 9, 2023, 4:47 AM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 Wow, this thread has generated a lot of response, and I’ve enjoyed 
 reading every post. It’s such a shame we have to go to extremes to avoid 
 bike theft - carrying heavy u-locks, being so choosy about parking and 
 locking, replacing parts, making the bike ugly, choosing to ride an 
 undesirable bike so we can preserve our desirable bike…

 Then there’s the other variable - how careful is the kid going to be 
 with the bike? Well, bikes are not precious to him. He likes his bike, 
 sees 
 beauty and usefulness in it, but please do not bore him with too many 
 details about it. I don’t think he will worry about it like I would; and 
 that may lead to carelessness that gets his bike stolen. But also, he has 
 the Mr. Magoo-like quality of walking through life blissfully unaware of 
 the evil that lurks around every corner and arriving unscathed at his 
 destination. 

 The campus in question does not have a lot of bike pirates roaming 
 about, although yes, I know they exist everywhere. But they are not 
 prolific on this particular campus. I’m still undecided about what bike to 
 send, but any bike that goes with him will get skewers that are locked and 
 nuts that prevent the theft of stem, saddle and seat post. Hexlox makes 
 all 
 these products, if anyone is wondering. We’ll have good u-locks, too. 

 And thanks to Jim for the mention of coverage under homeowners’ 
 insurance. I’ll be looking into that for sure. 
 Leah

 On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 7:04:07 PM UTC-4 nlerner wrote:

> Similar to Mackenzy, I’ve been bike commuting to college campuses for 
> many decades, the last 30 of which have been in the Boston area. I’ve 
> never 
> had a bike stolen likely because (1) I use a decent lock and (2) never 
> park 
> it outside overnight. I have colleagues who would never leave their bikes 
> outside at all and schlep them up to their offices, navigating too small 
> elevators and lots of doorways, but I’ve never seen the need. Sure, bikes 
> get stolen around here all the time, but I’m convinced those are the ones 
> easiest to steal, e.g., unlocked on a porch or in a backyard or part of a 
> larger home break in.
>
> Now that doesn’t mean I necessarily endorse bringing the Clem to 
> college as it will likely get thoroughly trashed from daily wear and tear 
> (bike racks are not bike-friendly spaces). But I’m also always looking 
> for 
> an excuse to build up a commuter for colleagues.
>
> Neal Lerner
> Brookline MA
>
> On Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 5:07:52 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>
>> I'm amazed at the amount of discouragement of use of the Clem as a 
>> college commuting bike. 
>>
>> I've worked at universities a good chunk of my life and commuted with 
>> high(er) end bikes and never had any issues. I like riding nice bikes - 
>> 

[RBW] Re: FS: Cliffhanger Tandem/Cargo Wheelset

[Wesley]

Tandem rear wheels typically have 145mm spacing, wider than the typical 
135mm spacing of non-tandem rear wheels, and closer to modern "fat bikes". 
Some adaptation may be possible, I don't know.
-Wes

On Sunday, August 6, 2023 at 3:21:26 PM UTC-7 Bones wrote:

> Yes. A 56 Susie takes a 29" tire. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong.
>
> Bones
>
> On Sunday, August 6, 2023 at 3:25:56 PM UTC-4 Justin Kennedy wrote:
>
>> Sorry maybe a dumb question but would these work with QR on a 56cm Susie?
>>
>> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 7:38:38 PM UTC-4 Bones wrote:
>>
>>> Knew I'd miss something. 29ers!
>>>
>>> Thanks, 
>>> Bones
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 7:19:15 PM UTC-4 Wesley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Bones, 
>>>> What wheel size, please?
>>>> -Wes
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 12:08:51 PM UTC-7 Bones wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I bought these from Velocity a few years ago. I replaced the front hub 
>>>>> with a Shimano dynamo. 40H rear, 36H front. Both rims have machined 
>>>>> sidewalls. The rear has a bolt-on rotor mount, the front is centerlock 
>>>>> (dust cover included).They are black but they have a subtle color to 
>>>>> them, 
>>>>> can't quite explain it. I think they look cool. Hopefully the pictures 
>>>>> show 
>>>>> it. They haven't seen all that much use. Skewers included. $400 shipped 
>>>>> (or 
>>>>> best offer) lower 48.
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: wheels01.jpg][image: wheels02.jpg][image: wheels03.jpg][image: 
>>>>> wheels04.jpg]
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Bones
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cliffhanger Tandem/Cargo Wheelset

[Wesley]

Hi Bones, 
What wheel size, please?
-Wes

On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 12:08:51 PM UTC-7 Bones wrote:

> I bought these from Velocity a few years ago. I replaced the front hub 
> with a Shimano dynamo. 40H rear, 36H front. Both rims have machined 
> sidewalls. The rear has a bolt-on rotor mount, the front is centerlock 
> (dust cover included).They are black but they have a subtle color to them, 
> can't quite explain it. I think they look cool. Hopefully the pictures show 
> it. They haven't seen all that much use. Skewers included. $400 shipped (or 
> best offer) lower 48.
>
> [image: wheels01.jpg][image: wheels02.jpg][image: wheels03.jpg][image: 
> wheels04.jpg]
> Thanks,
> Bones
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Club Rides On A Racing Platypus

[Wesley]

OMG this is so cute!
-W

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 6:12:31 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> I really do have the sweetest, cutest story from the Tuesday night women’s 
> ride. 
>
> We had a small group of 7 riders that night. We were several miles in when 
> suddenly from behind, I heard two unfamiliar voices, one belonging to a 
> child, and one belonging to a man. I looked back and was astounded - there 
> at the end of our peloton was an 8 year old girl on a tiny blue Trek bike, 
> wearing her matching blue helmet, blonde hair flying and huge grin on full 
> display. I looked at her father, helmetless and riding his own bike. He 
> wore a look half proud and half sheepish. “This is Braelyn, and she’s been 
> watching you go by every week,” he said. “And she’s been wanting to ride 
> with you; she said, ‘Daddy, Tuesday night at 6:50 they’ll be here.’ And she 
> got ready so she could join you tonight.” I looked at my speedometer…we 
> were riding at over 17 mph. She moved up behind me and another woman fell 
> in behind her. 
>
> “Ok, honey, you listen for when I call out things like stick or hole, ok?” 
>
> “Ok!” she said, flashing a Cheshire Cat grin. And we pedaled on, flying 
> over country roads with our tiny companion and her daddy. She stayed with 
> us for a few miles and then they peeled off after the second set of 
> railroad tracks. I wish I had gotten a photo, but maybe next week we’ll see 
> her again and I’ll get my chance.
>
> I’m sure we were in violation of like 30 club rules but Michigan doesn’t 
> scold you for things like these. Braelyn and her little Trek, legs flying 
> and hair streaming…I doubt we will ever see anything better than her on the 
> Tuesday Night Ride.
> On Wednesday, September 14, 2022 at 4:38:01 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Delicious!
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 9, 2022 at 3:58 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> ... Some guy will come find me at my vehicle and tell me how I’m doing 
>>> it wrong. After getting lectured about how I could go 25% faster if I had 
>>> this bike and narrow tires, blah, blah, I say, “Well, I just beat you, so I 
>>> don’t think my bike is the problem.”  
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: new member/delta quill stem risers

[Wesley]

I probably should not blow up my own spot like this (I use two of these on 
my bikes and may soon need a third, I love them). But this from Soma 
Fabrications is 1) brand new, 2) the same price, and 3) a much higher rise.

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/soma-high-rider-xl-quill-28-6-22-2-290mm-4984#attr=2406

These are the only risers that can make a typical "large" (usually about 
60cm) bike from yesteryear comfortable for me. I love them, but keep in 
mind that they are machined rather than forged and heat treated like a 
Nitto product, so probably don't use one on a mountain bike that will see 
rough trail use.
-Wes

On Friday, August 4, 2023 at 8:11:10 AM UTC-7 chasenl...@gmail.com wrote:

> hi all! i have posted a couple times but never really introduced myself. I 
> am Chasen, I live in NYC, and I've got a roadini and a gus, both orange, 
> with an atlantis in the mail from c & l. i also have a 650b'd rb 2 that i 
> cant place a year on,  a 1990 stumpjumper w a Clydesdale fork, and a junker 
> old huffy mtb thing that i conduct stupid experiments on. 
>
> These convos are such a great resource for young and dumb wannabe bike 
> mechanics like myself, and you all seem much less grumpy than the folks 
> over on reddit. For these things, I thank you all.
>
> *alright, heres the important part of this post:*
>
> What have the groups experiences been with delta quill stem risers of 
> yore? 
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/305021101084
>
> I became aware of them through this article on the riv site:
> https://www.rivbike.com/pages/nitto-stem-comparison
> I found one cheap on ebay and its on the way to me now. Just wondering 
> what everyone thinks of these! I am pretty excited to try it just for the 
> novelty of it, though im sure theres a reason they're not readily available 
> anymore. If anyone has pics of one in use, please share!
>

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[RBW] Re: Swapping a bulb in a Schmidt Edelux II?

[Wesley]

I would suspect the wiring and connections well before thinking the LED had 
burned out. Maybe clean and re-connect the wires everywhere you can? If 
there is a soldered connection in the wire, it may need re-doing? Good luck!
-Wes

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 9:07:36 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Dynamo-freaks: anyone ever replace a bulb in their Edelux II light? Mine 
> was flickering for a while, then went totally out on my ride home last 
> night. Checked the connection and it's plugged into the hub - but, worth 
> noting, the hub is a recent replacement!

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[RBW] Re: Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Wesley]

Last fall I wrecked a derailer and bent the hanger when I shifted a 
short-cage rear der into the big-big combination. I bought a new derailer 
and aligned the dropout using this 
clever hack (which I could swear I learned of from this 
list): https://youtu.be/TnwreRrorIA

Anyway, it sounds to me like after all these tries that your derailer 
hanger is aligned, and that the problem lies elsewhere. Perhaps a bent cog 
on the cassette? Or the new derailer you're trying has some flaw - e.g. the 
upper pulley can wander? A stiff link in the chain? I can't think of a 
reason that the impact to shifter, cable, and housing would be the issue, 
but maybe there is one I haven't thought of?

"When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains – however 
implausible – must be the truth."
-Wes
On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 6:00:36 AM UTC-7 Bill Schairer wrote:

> I vote for buy a gauge and do it yourself.  I bought a Park DAG years ago 
> after a wreck and have used it many, many times since.  No regrets.  
> Haven't I watched your build videos?  You need this tool regardless.  That 
> said, if a shop used one and aligned the hanger, I have a lot of trouble 
> thinking the hanger is responsible for the jumping. In my experience, a 
> misaligned hanger results in poor shifting, noisy drivetrain, and 
> difficulty adjusting the high and low stops.  If it is jumping between 
> gears, maybe, but then should be happening in all gears or at least never 
> seem quite right no matter which gear?  If it is jumping on the same gear, 
> I'd be thinking chain, cassette and/or chainrings?
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>
> On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 8:20:22 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Okay, some mild updates. 
>>
>> I've bent and tweaked the hanger with crescent wrenches at least two 
>> dozen times now. Worked on it during the miserable heat wave here and 
>> during nicer weather yesterday. During the process I remove the chain and 
>> the derailer, tweak the hanger, re-install the chain and derailer, test 
>> ride. Repeat. Over and over! Every time I ride the bike the chain skips. 
>>
>> I've tried aligning by hand and eye. I've used a series of straight 
>> edges, trying to reference off the cassette to the face of the derailer 
>> hanger where the derailer sits. I can get the straight edges into plane 
>> with one another but evidently that's not enough because the chain still 
>> jumps. 
>>
>> I feel like I can finesse this thing back into working order but I have 
>> so far been unsuccessful. The hanger is relatively flat considering how 
>> mangled it got. It's considerably better than it was. The bolt hole is 
>> elongated but fortunately derailer bolts screw in nicely and the threads 
>> feel good. Through all my uninstalling/reinstalling the bolts thread in 
>> nicely each time. 
>>
>> One problem is that the guys at the LBS have put their dropout and hanger 
>> alignment tools on the bike and they say the tools show things are aligned. 
>> *But* they are also audibly and visibly weary of putting too much torque 
>> on the hanger and seem to think it's going to shear off the frame if they 
>> look at it funny. I don't think that's going to happen. I talked to Grant 
>> about this twice now and he doesn't think that's going to happen, either. 
>> He shared an acedote wherein he bent a derailer hanger through 180º of 
>> motion several times before the hanger sheared off. I'm not moving mine 
>> nearly as much, just a bit at a time. And today I heard Grant Petersen say 
>> "Steel is magical." So I'm adding that to my lifetime book of memorable 
>> quotes by notable people. 
>>
>> There's another shop in town but I get bad vibes every time I go in there 
>> so I'm going to spare myself and stay away. I know if I go in there it'll 
>> end up being a bad scene and I'll regret it. 
>>
>> I'm open to having a builder try to align the hanger, heat it up and 
>> shape it or braze a new dropout onto the frame. But the builder I know and 
>> have worked with before on three other bikes (this Hillborne included) has 
>> sold his tools and retired. Two other nearby builders haven't returned my 
>> messages. 
>>
>> Now I'm thinking the best next step is to drop > $100 on a derailer 
>> hanger alignment tool and try it myself in the home shop. Looking at the 
>> Park Tool DAG 2.2. This eliminates the hesitancy of other mechanics (I'm 
>> not afraid to wreck the bike) and gives me a useful tool to have forever. 
>>
>> Full options going forward (as I see them, open to suggestions as 
>> always): 
>>
>>- Buy a gauge and adjust it myself until I'm satisfied or I give up 
>>and advance to next option
>>- Take it to a shop
>>   - Go-to shop seems afraid to break my hanger, I don't think that's 
>>   going to happen but they are audibly and visibly weary. 
>>   - Other shop in town I avoid at all costs and don't want to take 
>>   my bikes to them
>>- Get a new dropout welded onto the bike
>>  

Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Smith, Jr for sa;e

[Wesley]

Mike, will you pease tell us your location and the price of the bike?

Kim, it is a 64cm in the photo (you can tell by how tall the headtube is)
-Wes

On Wednesday, August 2, 2023 at 8:44:55 AM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> The frame size is 52cm, not a 64cm frame.
>
> Kim Hetzel.
>
> On Wed, Aug 2, 2023, 8:38 AM Hoch in ut  wrote:
>
>> I’m assuming this is a 64cm frame. 
>>
>> Best wishes to the sale and more importantly, your health. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 4:44:31 PM UTC-6 eclec...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> I had a Clem Smith, Jr built at RBW in Walnut Creek about 1 1/2 years 
>>> ago. Shortly after the purchase I had surgery on my upper left leg that 
>>> doesn’t allow to sit in the bicycle saddle without pain. So reluctantly 
>>> I’ve decided to sell it.
>>>
>>> Clem Smith, Jr mens 54 cam
>>> Ergon handlebar grips
>>> Ergon SL Core Prime Mens
>>> Lumina Micro 650 front light
>>> Handlebar mounted clock
>>> Water holder
>>> Silver fender 
>>> Abus folding lock and mounted holder
>>> Busch and Muller handlebar mounted mirror
>>> Look trail pedals
>>> Nitto rear rack
>>> Rear light
>>> Mike Lipelt
>>> eclec...@gmail.com
>>> Rear light
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Wesley]

Possibly dumb question: have you taken a good look at your chain? It ay be 
kinked, which would cause skipping gears.
-Wes

On Wednesday, July 26, 2023 at 4:04:01 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Andre attempted to make some further adjustments, the chain still skips. I 
> tried installing a Deore XT M771 and that was a little bit better but the 
> chain still skips. 
>
> I called Riv and talked to Grant who was eager to see some pictures. Will 
> has a new dropout heading to me by mail, now I just need to find someone 
> who can braze the new dropout on. The framebuilder I know has transitioned 
> from building bikes to chartering boats! 
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:43:30 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Yesterday I brought the frame to my LBS, Bike Works and handed it over 
>> to trusted mechanic Andre. He bent the hanger, aligned the dropouts and 
>> aligned the hanger. The hanger alignment tool showed the hanger was in 
>> plane with the rim. Amazingly the hole took a derailer bolt just fine. It 
>> looks terrible but functionality seemed promising. This was all I cared 
>> about.
>>
>> You can see the hole is terribly elongated. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_6872.JPG] 
>>
>> [image: IMG_6871.JPG]
>>
>> Here's my wavy hanger.
>>
>> [image: IMG_6880.JPG]
>>
>> Fortunately I have a small collection of Cyclones to draw from. The last 
>> one I mangled was beautiful old stock. This one here is almost as nice. 
>>
>> The bike shifted fine in the stand. But on the road and under load the 
>> chain skips in the smallest four cogs. 
>>
>> Tomorrow I'll take it back to Andre and see if he can't finesse it into 
>> shape. 
>> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:38:04 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick: Sorry about that Fargo but glad to hear it could be repaired. 
>>> Replaceable hangers seem helpful!
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 10:41:41 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 And: I had Chauncey Matthews use a replaceable hanger when he built the 
 replacement for the Fargo.

 On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 8:38 AM Patrick Moore  
 wrote:

> FWIW, I had a similar experience with a Fargo when a stick jammed the 
> rd: the hangar was bent 90* inward (and jammed into the cassette; no 
> single-speeding home). The good news, and the point: a LBS was able to 
> unbend the rd to usable status again. The replacement rd worked fine. Of 
> course, YMMV.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 7:50 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> Many thanks, John. I'll check out the spokes. 
>>
>> I've been texting with my local mechanic friend, Andre. We're going 
>> to try and bend the hanger and see how close we can get it. Considering 
>> a 
>> drop out saver from Wheels Mfg. 
>>
>> If that fails I'll see about having a new dropout installed. I gotta 
>> call Will when Riv opens!
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 8:36:56 AM UTC-4 JohnS wrote:
>>
>>> Wow Eric, that was a bad one, glad your ok and the Sam is on the 
>>> mend. Don't forget to check the spokes for nicks, could break easy if 
>>> they 
>>> are.
>>>
>>> JohnS
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 7:54:06 AM UTC-4 Josh C wrote:
>>>
 Wow. That's wild. Glad you're ok. Bummer about the Sam, that's a 
 beautiful bike.

 On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 9:08:55 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Thanks Brian and Danny! 
>
> I got the mech freed. The parallelogram housing is twisted, too. 
> The limit screws aren't in plane, they're twisted! It's a huge mess. 
> Still 
> have many good screws, bolts and springs worth saving. Jockey wheels, 
> too. 
> I'll leave it as-is and pull parts from it as needed. 
>
> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 8:19:03 PM UTC-4 Danny wrote:
>
>> Sorry about the hanger damage, but good to hear that you're ok. 
>> Even in its pretzelized state, it's a good looking derailer 
>> sculpture!
>>
>> -Danny
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 6:42 PM Brian Turner  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I’m just over here hungry for pretzels.
>>>
>>> Seriously though, glad you’re ok, and I’m sorry about your Sam’s 
>>> hanger. I’m sure it’ll be up and running strong again soon.
>>>
>>> On Jul 23, 2023, at 6:57 PM, Eric Marth  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Jim. Just a bit of my own patented brand of sarcasm ;) 
>>>
>>> The damage is waaay out of proportion to the fall. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 23, 2023 at 5:57:30 PM UTC-4 J J wrote:
>>>
 Wow... the most important thing is that you're fine, Eric. The 
 bike stuff is "just" bike stuff, repairable or replaceable.

 I saw your subject line 

[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[Wesley]

Oh, and to be more practical: If you can turn the top (lock) nut by hand, 
it is not doing anything. I am not sure why the video recommends backing 
off the lock nut, but I don't think you should. The "lock" function comes 
from tightening that nut until it stretches the steerer. Taken to the 
extreme, this will cause the threaded section to be in tension between the 
lower and upper nuts until turning either nut in either direction would 
feel like "tightening" it. Hence, the nuts are locked. This is how the lock 
nuts on loose-bearing hubs work, for instance. You don't need to go to that 
extreme on the headset, since the upper bearing doesn't really do anything 
other than keep the steerer centered (the bottom bearing carries all the 
weight). So just go ahead and turn the lock nut until it is snug 
(guesstimating: 15 ft-lbs) and go ride.
-W
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:00:56 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
> tandem):
> 1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is 
> fully engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
> 2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
> cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
> video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
> (which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
> this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
> tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
> this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
> will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
> lock) nut with just one wrench.
> 3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But the 
> lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny bit!) 
> until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom nut 
> doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube elongates 
> it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the bearing to 
> be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching brings the 
> bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel that 
> develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, which 
> allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or tight 
> (because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
> balls.)
>
> Hope this helps!
> -Wes
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>
>> There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
>> <https://groups.google.com/u/5/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/tAas6urcOwg> about 
>> adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
>> for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
>> I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.
>>
>> Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing 
>> one of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
>> <https://vimeo.com/143667109>from Rivendell where you can see the 
>> process but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a 
>> wrench or is it enough to hand tighten?
>>
>> Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Max
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Forks and adjusting headsets

[Wesley]

This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and 
tandem):
1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is fully 
engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube, 
cutting vertically through the threads (it is barely visible at 4:23 in the 
video you linked). A lock washer goes on the stack above the bottom nut 
(which is the top bearing's inner race), with a tab or "key" that fits in 
this groove. As a result, the lock washer cannot spin relative to the steer 
tube. Thus, friction from the spinning of the locknut and spacers above 
this lock washer cannot cause the bottom nut to spin. So that bottom nut 
will stay where you left it, even though you may crank down the top (aka 
lock) nut with just one wrench.
3. There is an ideal tightness to which you will set the bearing. But the 
lock nut works by stretching the steel of the steer tube (just a tiny bit!) 
until the threads don't engage the bottom nut (this is why the bottom nut 
doesn't work loose over rough terrain). Stretching the steer tube elongates 
it, so the bearings get looser. Therefore, you must adjust the bearing to 
be too tight before the locknut goes on, so that the stretching brings the 
bearing to ideal tightness. Accomplishing this requires a feel that 
develops over time. Or you could just get a sealed-bearing headset, which 
allow much more leeway in bearing adjustment without feeling loose or tight 
(because a sealed bearing headset squeezes the bearing races, not the 
balls.)

Hope this helps!
-Wes
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 8:33:48 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:

> There was a conversation on the Roadini thread 
>  about 
> adjusting the headset after fork removal.  This is something I've wondered 
> for a while - some say you need to wrenches others one, my experience is if 
> I tighten and back a bit I can move the nut with my hand.
>
> Does anyone have a solid explanation of how it's done? When installing one 
> of my forks on a new bike I had found this video  
> from Rivendell where you can see the process 
> but I'm still unsure of how tight I should go? Should I use a wrench or is 
> it enough to hand tighten?
>
> Also, how many spacers should one use when setting up a fork?
>
> Thanks
> Max
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO Roadini...or?

[Wesley]

The two wrenches are to hold one nut still while turning the other, like 
when serving loose bearing hubs. Most (all?) threaded headsets use a keyed 
washer between the nuts to prevent one from turning the other, so there's 
no need for two wrenches. If you want to travel with a bike with threaded 
headset, it is worth using a sealed-bearing headset. For one, you can't 
lose some of the balls, and for another the preload adjustment is much less 
sensitive.

On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 10:04:35 AM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Haha. I haven't touched my Chris King threadless headset on my touring 
> bike for years. Getting all the play out took quite a bit of futzing so now 
> I avoid messing with it.   For a threaded headset I remember you need 2 
> wrenches. Just one more thing I don't want to deal with while I'm 
> jet-lagged and putting together the bike at a hotel under time pressure.
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 9:55:40 AM UTC-7 chasenl...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Piaw- it does, I was intimidated but I saw a plp vid where he uses the 
>> case w a threaded fork, so I just got one of those mini adjustable wrenches 
>> that Riv sells and it’s p smooth sailing as long as you keep up with 
>> everything. I saw Russ posting recently about some Topeak travel-specific, 
>> light-looking, flat headset wrenches that would be amazing for this 
>> application, but they most be a prototype, can’t find them anywhere.
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 12:35 PM Piaw Na(藍俊彪)  wrote:
>>
>>> Doesn't the post-transfer case require fork removal? Is that hard to do 
>>> on the threaded headset? I've always avoided cases that require fork 
>>> removal.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 8:40 AM Chasen Smith  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Going off of what Piaw said of the AHH, the fact that the roadini will 
 fit in my post transfer case was a huge factor in my decision to get one! 

 On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 10:47 AM Piaw Na  wrote:

> Let me break down the road bike selection from Rivendell:
>
> Sam: I refuse to consider this a road bike since it doesn't take 
> sidepull calipers. :-) I've always hated both cantilever and v-brakes, 
> having experienced many reliability issues with them (they're probably 
> better now, but I still get PTSD from having them fall apart on me once 
> and 
> hours spent dealing with a heron that squealed like the proverbial stuck 
> pig when descending major passes in the alps). I consider even disc 
> brakes 
> to be a better compromise if you need wider tires than a Tektro 559. And 
> those squeal too just not as badly.
> Roadeo: classic road bike using medium reach brakes  I've got a 
> friend who got a Lynskey built up to match the geometry (Rivendell only 
> had 
> one demo Roadeo when he wanted to buy and the wait was such that a custom 
> Lynskey would deliver faster) and he loves it. If you don't need more 
> than 
> 35mm tires it's a great bike.
> Roadini: gravelish bike with Tektro brakes that can take 42mm tires. 
> The higher BB means you can't treat it like a MTB and never have a pedal 
> strike no matter what trails you ride on. It's versatile and heavier but 
> a 
> reasonable compromise.
> AHH: fully lugged road bike with a low BB built for tires wider than 
> 30mm. The ultra long chainstays means it's suitable for even rougher 
> trails 
> than the Roadini but might also mean it's harder to fly with. The 135mm 
> rear wheel is strong enough to handle anything a MTB can. With good bike 
> handling skills and 45mm tires this would be my choice for bikepacking 
> (though I'm light enough the Roadini will serve well there).
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 7:39:03 AM UTC-7 Piaw Na wrote:
>
>> Oh yeah, the AHH doesn't have downtube shifter bosses, while the 
>> Roadini does. Again, a minor consideration --- I'm happy with my 
>> downtube 
>> shifter on my Roadini, but it wouldn't have killed me to go to bar-end 
>> shifters.
>>
>> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 7:35:31 AM UTC-7 Piaw Na wrote:
>>
>>> The AHH has 50cm chainstays, which might make it hard to fit into my 
>>> bike box for flying (I use a Trico-Ironcase). The AHH also takes 135mm 
>>> rear 
>>> wheels, while the wheels I had hanging in the garage were all 130mm 
>>> wheels. 
>>> Grant advised against cold setting an AHH. In exchange the Roadini has 
>>> a 
>>> 5mm higher BB, which I dislike (others claim you can't tell the 
>>> difference 
>>> but I can, from having ridden an 80mm drop touring bike for many 
>>> years), 
>>> but something I'm willing to trade. If my current custom touring bike 
>>> fails, I'll go for a custom bike with the Roadini geometry but with an 
>>> 80 
>>> or even 85mm BB drop now that I'm unlikely to ride tires narrower than 
>>> 28mm.
>>>
>>> That's 

Re: [RBW] Re: ISO Roadini...or?

[Wesley]

In my opinion, the most significant difference between a Roadini and a 
homer is that the Roadini is designed for drop bars (so has a shorter top 
tube) and the Homer is designed for upright swept-back bars.

On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 6:32:03 AM UTC-7 Davey Two Shoes wrote:

> Can someone explain to me what would prompt a decision for a roadini over 
> a Homer aside from price? I though the Homer was Rivs "zippy" offering. 
> With the Roadeo being their fast offering. The road bike category at Riv is 
> starting to get crowded between the Sam, Homer, Roadini and Roadeo. I know 
> Riv calls the Sam a Hilli/Gravel bike, but coming from a modern gravel 
> bike, and before that a Salsa Vaya, the Sam is definitely a road bike that 
> happens to be tough and capable elsewhere. But a Road Bike when the day is 
> done.
>
> On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 8:51:03 AM UTC-4 jrst...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> For some of us who have had back pain with more modern bikes Rivendells 
>> have always been a breath of fresh air. I started buying them in 1997 and 
>> have not looked back, they made riding possible for me again. 
>>
>> I do prefer the Rivs with the shorter for Riv  chainstays. Nice bikes for 
>> those of us who have issues with more aggressive geometries. For me not 
>> koolaide but a practical   comfort. 
>>
>> Glad your aluminum bike works for you.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 24, 2023 at 2:13 AM Nick Payne  wrote:
>>
>>> On Monday, 24 July 2023 at 2:43:06 pm UTC+10 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>> Modern bikes are fine - I recommended the OP consider one as a companion 
>>> to his Sam - but being on a Rivendell group and calling us "people who've 
>>> drunk the Kool-Aid" is... interesting 
>>>
>>> I have Rivendell bikes, and they're nice bikes to ride. I just don't 
>>> think they're the be-all and end-all of bicycle design. What the OP seems 
>>> to be looking for in a bike is closer to what you and I both recommended.
>>>
>>> Nick Payne
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
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>>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/13882503-75a4-40f2-9d54-176ca8afa9a8n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Ebike Clem

[Wesley]

I was not aware that you can do a mid-drive conversion (I thought the frame 
had to be special designed to accept the drive-unit instead of a bottom 
bracket). How did you do it?
-Wes
On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 11:03:34 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Looks like you're good there, Stephen, 250W is pretty mellow. Yes it's the 
> torque that would concern me with a more powerful hub motor; no bad 
> experiences (I used 250W on an Appaloosa), I just try not to be too crazy 
> with slim fork blades not designed with a motor in mind. Most 
> front-hub-motor bikes I see are running really beefy forks. 
>
> My first build was a ridiculously powerful rear-hub Clem, Grant rode it! 
> Then I did a few with even more ridiculously powerful mid-drives, those 
> were tons of fun. But I'm out of the ebike game these days. Maybe in the 
> future I'll try one again. 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Monday, July 17, 2023 at 6:46:52 AM UTC-7 Stephen wrote:
>
>> Hey Joe,
>>
>> That would be because of too much torque on a weak fork I presume? I'd be 
>> curious to hear more about your experiences with eRivs, and is that a 
>> determination you've made based on a bad experience? Have you done both 
>> front and rear type motors? I have to admit I'm pretty clueless when it 
>> comes to the details of ebikes in general, but I hope that since this kit 
>> is intended to be universal it will be safe enough for the type of riding 
>> my father will be doing and that the company would be responsible enough to 
>> highlight potential incompatibilities. It does seem like eBikes are still a 
>> bit of a wild west of little to no regulation.. Unfortunately the kit 
>> website is pretty limited in describing its technical specifications (it is 
>> very much designed for non technical people) and I can't find a spec as to 
>> whether its a 250w or 500w motor, but it does list a 40nm torque. How does 
>> that speak to your experience?
>>
>> I didn't notice anything bad on my test ride yesterday, but I suppose 
>> I'll give it a longer ride today and see if I notice any dangerous fork 
>> flex...
>>
>> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 10:02:46 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Looks fun but - as a fellow who's built a few eRivs - I gotta throw in a 
>>> warning here about wattage. If that's a 250W hub you're good, I would worry 
>>> about 500W on Riv's spindly forks. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 4:33:14 PM UTC-7 Stephen wrote:
>>>
 Thought I'd share my project of the day: electrifying this clem L for 
 my Dad.

 A little backstory:

 My family and I all chipped in a few years ago to get my Dad a Clem 
 complete in an effort to give him a fun and healthy exercise activity 
 following a near death heart attack in 2020. Despite really liking the 
 look 
 and comfort of the bike, his level of fitness was really limiting the 
 amount of time he could spend on it. He'd be wiped in under 30 minutes, 
 and 
 unfortunately living in the suburban south, safe and accessible riding is 
 fairly limited and largely unexciting unless you're covering big miles out 
 on country roads. Add to that the fact that his main riding partner, my 
 mom, has been a long time road cyclist with a much higher level of 
 fitness, 
 they ended up getting him an ebike from rei. Its made a huge difference in 
 how much he's able to ride and his willingness to ride, but he's still 
 been 
 partial towards the Clem. 

 So my folks ordered an ebike conversion kit, gosh, like a year ago and 
 it finally arrived recently. Its a front wheel motor with a handlebar 
 mounted battery pack, and supposedly a pretty simple install. However, for 
 some reason the axle on the wheel was 10mm as opposed to the 9mm clem fork 
 drop outs so I had to do a bit of filing (on the axle) to get it to fit. 
 Took it for a spin and it really goes! Feels a little less 
 jarring/unnatural than other ebikes I've tried. I'm curious to see how it 
 holds up.

 Please excuse the messy cables in the pics, still got some neatening up 
 to do. And for those curious, the kit is the swytch bike kit.

 [image: IMG_5909.jpg]

 [image: IMG_5910.jpg]

 [image: IMG_5911.jpg]

 [image: IMG_5912.jpg]

>>>

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Re: [RBW] ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Wesley]

Caroline,
If you recently had the chain and cassette replace, then your problems with 
the chain dropping may be because the chainring is worn. Most chainrings 
are aluminum, which wears faster than steel cogs. And since the same 
chainring is used for all riding while the cogs are changed by shifting, 
the wear is more concentrated on the chainring. Both of these lead to 
chainrings wiring out faster than cogs, and a worn chainring will not hold 
the chain securely. This can act in combination with problems others hav 
suggested here - especially bent detailer hanger and too-slack chain - to 
drop the chain off the chainring.
-Wes

On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:53:07 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:

> Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both new 
> parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 
>
> The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur were 
> good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built the 
> bike in 2009. 
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur 
>> hanger is straight?
>>
>> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
>>> Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
 coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had 
 the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 

 Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
 .  

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 .

>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto quill adapter, 130mm

[Wesley]

Looks like it is in stock at Soma:
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/27507-nitto-stem-mtc-024-130mm-riser-28-6-22-2-slv-5875

I have one of the longer version that I think is surplus. But if you're 
looking for height, I would recommend the product that allowed me to retire 
the Nitto riser. This Soma-branded stem adapter/riser is the tallest I've 
seen anywhere:
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/soma-high-rider-xl-quill-28-6-22-2-290mm-4984
-Wes

On Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 7:55:46 PM UTC-7 Tom Goodmann wrote:

> Though likely scarce as a horn shed from a unicorn, I wonder whether 
> anyone might have one of these and be willing to part with it. 
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-mtc-quill-for-threadless-stem 
>
> I've been on the restock notification list for Riv, understanding the wait 
> for many things from Nitto.
>
> Thanks for any leads!  
>
> Tom 
>

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[RBW] Re: "You need 7 bikes" article

[Wesley]

We know from Bicycle Belle Leah that the mixte can be the lightish road 
bike, the do-all racked and fendered bike, or the beater - at least. So you 
really only need six (eight?).
-W

On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 5:16:47 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Tom — This appeared as a little blurb in Rivendell Reader No. 42 on 
> page 6 (online in the Rivendell archive here 
> ). 
>
> [image: Screenshot 2023-03-29 at 8.14.15 PM.png]
>
> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 8:45:16 AM UTC-4 Tom Palmer wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> I recall an article by Grant about the number of bike a person needs with 
>> justification. I think it was 7.
>>  Any idea which reader it was in?
>> Thanks!
>> Tom Palmer
>> Twin Lake, MI
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Clem Smith Jr L Frameset

[Wesley]

I meant to say "mismatched fork", not for.
-W
On Thursday, March 30, 2023 at 5:48:52 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> Hi Graham,
> I have been waiting for the same frame as you for a long time, and there 
> are none that I know of available. BUT!
> 1. Rivendell will have them back in stock in a few weeks
> 2. I saw a few in photos from the garage sale (mismatched for and/or 
> blemished frames). If you're local to the Bay Area, you might call to see 
> whether one of those remains.
>
> Good luck!
> -Wes
>
> On Thursday, March 30, 2023 at 10:32:07 AM UTC-7 Graham McCall wrote:
>
>> Hey All, 
>>
>> I'm looking for a Frame/fork Clem Smith Jr L in size 64/65, also would 
>> interested in a 59. PBH is 90.1
>>
>> Thanks, 
>> Graham
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Clem Smith Jr L Frameset

[Wesley]

Hi Graham,
I have been waiting for the same frame as you for a long time, and there 
are none that I know of available. BUT!
1. Rivendell will have them back in stock in a few weeks
2. I saw a few in photos from the garage sale (mismatched for and/or 
blemished frames). If you're local to the Bay Area, you might call to see 
whether one of those remains.

Good luck!
-Wes

On Thursday, March 30, 2023 at 10:32:07 AM UTC-7 Graham McCall wrote:

> Hey All, 
>
> I'm looking for a Frame/fork Clem Smith Jr L in size 64/65, also would 
> interested in a 59. PBH is 90.1
>
> Thanks, 
> Graham
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA Sale on Shimano Deore M591 9-Speed Rear Derailleur

[Wesley]

On that subject, I recently bought a rear derailer made by S-Ride, one of 
the Soma family of brands. Every weekend this winter they've been running 
big discounts (if you subscribe to their emails) - usually 30-50% off. 
Anyway, I got mine for $15 and it's good.
https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/590834-s-ride-rear-derailleur-long-cage-9-8-sp-black-rd-m300-5789
-W

On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 9:08:56 AM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

> With all the news about Shimano discontinuing lines and what not, I 
> thought it might be wise to stash a couple of things just in case, but I 
> didn't want to spend a lot...
>
> I found the Shimano Deore M591 9-Speed Rear Derailleur on sale at REI for 
> $38.93, that's not bad for good performing RD, it's not silver, but at that 
> price I'll take it.
>
>
> https://www.rei.com/product/798943/shimano-deore-m591-9-speed-rear-derailleur
>
> Hope this is helpful
> Max
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie Lugged

[Wesley]

It's always cool to see the updated frame schedule. Those purple plattys 
are gonna be amazing!

On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 5:00:47 PM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> I am excited to see CLEMs' coming out later this year or least to be 
> determined; completes and frames. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 4:53:00 PM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:
>
>> I like those dark-gold Homers...and possibly a dark-gold Road Uno in 2023?
>>
>> On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 6:12:59 PM UTC-6 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> I noticed the lugged susie too! Wonder how it will look, Ive been 
>>> resisting the temptation for the dark gold Susies so far but my brain keeps 
>>> circling back to them.. I keep toying with the idea of letting my Joe go to 
>>> get a susie.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 5:23:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>>
 What about purple Roadunos in September?

 Laing

 On Thursday, February 2, 2023 at 5:13:11 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> What you say?? I say! The Riv email newsletter says there's something 
> called Susie Lugged in dark gold coming June 2023. Well ok! 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>


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Re: [RBW] Craigslist (and others) Bikes For Sale: 3

[Wesley]

Huh! That's almost certainly the Platypus frame listed on Facebook group 
Rivendell Bicycles buy/sell/trade for $2000 + shipping because "this is the 
amount i spent to get it in my hands". So you'd be paying full retail price 
plus shipping the frame twice. Maybe he'll have luck after Riv sells all of 
theirs.
On Thursday, January 19, 2023 at 9:29:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Or I could buy one for $1750 (it's in stock) from RBW. Sheesh! 
>
> On Thursday, January 19, 2023 at 8:46:48 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:
>
>> New In Box 2022 55cm Rivendell Platypus frameset - $2,100 
>> New In Box.
>> Headset and seatpost included.
>> $2100 firm. 
>> Cash/Zelle only.
>> You must pick up. 
>>
>>
>> https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/bik/d/flushing-new-in-box-cm-rivendell/7576327566.html
>>
>> On Thursday, January 19, 2023 at 8:18:40 PM UTC-8 JAS wrote:
>>
>>> OOPS!  I got the colors reversedClem H is dark green, Platy is 
>>> lime-olive.  Sorry.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 19, 2023 at 8:17:06 PM UTC-8 JAS wrote:
>>>
 CLEM H  59cm  $1500  Eugene, OR
   lime-olive color
   
 https://eugene.craigslist.org/bik/d/eugene-rivendell-clem-smith-jr/7571155810.html
  

 PLATYPUS frameset  60cm  $1637  Eugene, OR
   looks like the dark green color
   
 https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/eugene-new-rivendell-60cm-platypus/7580365799.html
 On Thursday, January 19, 2023 at 8:19:55 AM UTC-8 Keith Weaver wrote:

> There's a small (48 cm), red(!) Hillborne in the Bay Area that I'm 
> trying to resist buying myself. I think it may be a bit small for me with 
> my 79 cm PBH, and not quite what I need to replace my Disc Trucker. I'm 
> trying to hold out until the next batch of Appaloosas. 
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/oakland-red-48cm-rivendell-sam-hillborne/7578783667.html
>
> On Thu, Jan 19, 2023 at 5:40 AM MCT  wrote:
>
>> There is a 61cm Waterford A. Homer Hilsen for sale on Paceine for 
>> $1,000
>>
>> https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=291519
>>
>> -- 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Exploration: Make your own pump peg

[Wesley]

This is cool, Eric - but how is it better than using the pump peg that was 
so thoughtfully brazed onto your frame?
-Wes

On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 7:05:38 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I read Will's post about how to make your own pump peg on the Blug a long 
> while back: 
> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/185595499869/how-to-make-your-own-pump-pegs
>
> You take a p-clamp, some spacers and modify a Nitto strut and you've got a 
> pump peg somewhere you might not have had one before. Will likes to put his 
> in the rear triangle and you'll notice them mounted this way on a lot of 
> his bikes.  
>
> [image: tumblr_inline_pt3zzjpbXk1qdvnvk_500.jpg]
> [image: tumblr_inline_pt401jwzC21qdvnvk_500.jpg]
>
> This is great, I love it, cool hack! But I've always wanted for a version 
> that doesn't require tracking down and destroying a Nitto strut. Riv HQ is 
> probably awash in Nitto struts and they have em poking out of the coffee 
> cans on everyone's desk all over the place. But not so for me, Nitto struts 
> are precious few in my shed. 
>
> I think I came up with the right shape and this weekend I picked up an 
> electrical ring terminal in the 10-12 size, yellow sleeve. 
>
> [image: Screen Shot 2023-01-17 at 9.56.39 PM.png][image: Screen Shot 
> 2023-01-17 at 9.56.44 PM.png]
>
> Holding the ring end with one pair of pliers you can easily remove the 
> yellow sleeve with a second pair of pliers. A pack of 15 is $4.50. If your 
> local hardware store has a bulk/loose hardware section you can get one for 
> around 55¢ (at least I did). 
>
> Paired with a 3/8" insulated cable clamp (2 for $2.20), a few serrated 
> brake washers, an M5 bolt and a nylock nut I had a fashioned a pump peg. 
> Didn't have to cut or shape any metal or destroy any high-end Japanese rack 
> struts. 
>
> [image: IMG_4875.JPG]
>
> [image: IMG_4874.JPG]
>
> I have yet to SUPER TEST this out but wanted to share all the same. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Flood Season Riding in CA

[Wesley]

Oh, and further to Collin's point about the flood risk from channelizing 
the river: the Sacramento River is expected to overtop the Fremont weir 
starting tomorrow for the first time since 2019, which was before I moved 
to town. This causes the river to flow into the Yolo bypass rather than 
flooding the city. Interstate 80 crosses the bypass on a causeway and I've 
heard descriptions of the 2017 flow through there that sound apocalyptic. 
Nothing in the forecast indicates that we will see even a third of that 
flow, but it is going to get wetter and wetter over the next few weeks, so 
who knows?

Bike content: a week ago I rode out into the bypass on some gravel roads - 
it was so refreshing to find a local ride that doesn't involve cars! Looks 
like that'll be impossible for a little while.
-Wes

On Friday, January 6, 2023 at 6:43:38 PM UTC-8 Wesley wrote:

> Its true about the consternation from the public! I was out a few nights 
> ago to see what conditions looked like on the American River, and at an 
> intersection some car pulled up next to me, pointed a camera at me and 
> started in with a bunch of questions about why I was out riding in the 
> rain. It's a bike thing, you wouldn't understand.
> -Wes
>
> On Friday, January 6, 2023 at 4:36:51 PM UTC-8 Collin A wrote:
>
>> Brunchers,
>>
>> Happy "Storm" Season from Sacramento, currently sitting at a lovely 30 ft 
>> (average, NAVD88) with the nearby American River potentially cresting at 40 
>> ft if the current forecasts hold. This post may be a bit off-topic, but it 
>> is riv/bike related because I have been doing some inspection rounds of the 
>> levees on my Appaloosa, much to the confusion of my coworkers and the 
>> public I see out there!
>>
>> Some Background:
>> Like most of the rivers in California, the American River (and Sacramento 
>> that the American feeds) is not a "natural" river and instead dammed at 
>> several locations along it's length and constrained for hundreds of miles 
>> by levees of varying levels of 'integrity.' The levees tend to contribute 
>> to flood risk, somewhat counterintuitively, because they constrain and 
>> limit how wide a river can go, thereby making the river run narrower, 
>> taller, and faster and causing more flooding if (or rather when) a levee 
>> breaks. The dams, specifically the Folsom Dam, serve to capture the more 
>> erratic rainfall and stream flows and later release them over a longer 
>> period to avoid damaging the levees and flooding the cities downstream. 
>>
>> Currently, Folsom is releasing about 190,000 gallons a second (or about 1 
>> olympic swimming pool every 3 seconds) in anticipation of the next several 
>> storms to make sure there is enough space to capture all of that water 
>> (before they have to release that volume gradually to then make space for 
>> another big storm). They will likely continue to release more water as the 
>> storms continue, and they are currently scheduled to release 40% more 
>> starting tomorrow. For a point of reference, the levees are designed to 
>> handle at least 4 times that amount, and the dam is designed for another 5 
>> times more!
>>
>> Bike Stuff:
>> I managed to get a ride out before this most recent storm and got a few 
>> photos of condition of the river paths and river itself. I'll be doing a 
>> similar lap early next week when the river rises another 10 feet or so and 
>> will likely try to make it a weekly occurrence as long as the storms keep 
>> up and I don't get called to an emergency response.
>> [image: PXL_20230103_183538984.jpg]
>> One of the boat ramps underneath Howe Ave, currently under water.
>>
>> [image: PXL_20230103_183305652.jpg]
>> Looking downstream from Watt Ave bridge
>>
>> Resources for those in the area related to forecasting:
>> River forecasts: CNRFC - California Nevada River Forecast Center 
>> (noaa.gov) <https://cnrfc.noaa.gov/>
>> Reservoir Release Schedules: CDEC - LastRes (ca.gov) 
>> <https://cdec.water.ca.gov/dynamicapp/lastRes> 
>>
>> Stay safe out there,
>> Collin in Floodramento
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Flood Season Riding in CA

[Wesley]

Its true about the consternation from the public! I was out a few nights 
ago to see what conditions looked like on the American River, and at an 
intersection some car pulled up next to me, pointed a camera at me and 
started in with a bunch of questions about why I was out riding in the 
rain. It's a bike thing, you wouldn't understand.
-Wes

On Friday, January 6, 2023 at 4:36:51 PM UTC-8 Collin A wrote:

> Brunchers,
>
> Happy "Storm" Season from Sacramento, currently sitting at a lovely 30 ft 
> (average, NAVD88) with the nearby American River potentially cresting at 40 
> ft if the current forecasts hold. This post may be a bit off-topic, but it 
> is riv/bike related because I have been doing some inspection rounds of the 
> levees on my Appaloosa, much to the confusion of my coworkers and the 
> public I see out there!
>
> Some Background:
> Like most of the rivers in California, the American River (and Sacramento 
> that the American feeds) is not a "natural" river and instead dammed at 
> several locations along it's length and constrained for hundreds of miles 
> by levees of varying levels of 'integrity.' The levees tend to contribute 
> to flood risk, somewhat counterintuitively, because they constrain and 
> limit how wide a river can go, thereby making the river run narrower, 
> taller, and faster and causing more flooding if (or rather when) a levee 
> breaks. The dams, specifically the Folsom Dam, serve to capture the more 
> erratic rainfall and stream flows and later release them over a longer 
> period to avoid damaging the levees and flooding the cities downstream. 
>
> Currently, Folsom is releasing about 190,000 gallons a second (or about 1 
> olympic swimming pool every 3 seconds) in anticipation of the next several 
> storms to make sure there is enough space to capture all of that water 
> (before they have to release that volume gradually to then make space for 
> another big storm). They will likely continue to release more water as the 
> storms continue, and they are currently scheduled to release 40% more 
> starting tomorrow. For a point of reference, the levees are designed to 
> handle at least 4 times that amount, and the dam is designed for another 5 
> times more!
>
> Bike Stuff:
> I managed to get a ride out before this most recent storm and got a few 
> photos of condition of the river paths and river itself. I'll be doing a 
> similar lap early next week when the river rises another 10 feet or so and 
> will likely try to make it a weekly occurrence as long as the storms keep 
> up and I don't get called to an emergency response.
> [image: PXL_20230103_183538984.jpg]
> One of the boat ramps underneath Howe Ave, currently under water.
>
> [image: PXL_20230103_183305652.jpg]
> Looking downstream from Watt Ave bridge
>
> Resources for those in the area related to forecasting:
> River forecasts: CNRFC - California Nevada River Forecast Center 
> (noaa.gov) 
> Reservoir Release Schedules: CDEC - LastRes (ca.gov) 
>  
>
> Stay safe out there,
> Collin in Floodramento
>

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[RBW] Re: First Ride of 2023

[Wesley]

No pics because it was dark and pouring. I rode up the American River 
parkway to see the conditions on the river and at the Nimbus dam on January 
2. It was a lot of water! I've lived in Sacramento for there years but it's 
been a drought that whole time so I am seeing the flood control 
infrastructure in operation for the first time. Very cool and a little 
worrisome, given the amount of rain that's coming in the next few weeks. I 
believe the Fremont Weir will begin overtopping with flow into the Yolo 
bypass this weekend - that'll be a sight!
-Wes

On Monday, January 2, 2023 at 7:11:26 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:

> I'm really enjoying the Last Ride of 2022 thread with its short 
> descriptions of all different kinds of rides, so I thought I'd start a 
> first ride of 2023.
>
> I got out on my new years day ride down here on the Florida panhandle. It 
> was sunny and over 70 degrees. I rode a nice 12 mile loop that took me 
> through the Saint Joseph Bay State Buffer Preserve, then to a coffee 
> outside stop across from Salinas Park on Cape San Blas, then back to Indian 
> Pass along the beach. A perfect ride with the perfect tires for the job. 
> After the swampy puddles in the buffer and the salty beach sand, I 
> definitely rinsed the bike off when I got back.
>
> I hope everyone has a great 2023.
>
> Paul usually in AR[image: 20230101_131633.jpg][image: 20230101_140956.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Rivendell Clem L 59cm

[Wesley]

Hi Jan,
I don't have one, but if someone contacts you with a 59 or 64 Clem L that 
you decide isn't right for you (wrong year/size/color, etc.), please let me 
know as I too have been searching.
-Wes

On Friday, December 30, 2022 at 2:45:51 PM UTC-8 jan.ot...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm still looking for an earlier 59 Clem L. Frame/Fork preferably. Please 
> let me know if you might have one for sale.
>
> Thank you and best wishes for 2023.
>
> Jan
> San Francisco, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Will's Roadini SS

[Wesley]

Patrick, I think you've talked about having a Redline Monocog 29er... that 
was my more MTB-type single speed, too. I made it into an all-rounder by 
drilling and tapping the frame to mount rack and fenders, and I converted 
it to a manual 3-speed with three cog/chainring combinations that all added 
up to the same number of teeth. This was the bike that I built wheels for 
using unicycle rims for extra wideness. Finally, I put on Albatross bars 
and a CETMA front rack. In that configuration, I toured it from Fairbanks 
to Juneau, Alaska after I finished college at the University of Alaska 
Fairbanks. It was a very nice ride and I regret that I gave it away when I 
moved overseas for a few years.
-Wes

On Thursday, December 22, 2022 at 9:48:43 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I'd like to hear about and see photos of single-speeded or fix-ified 
> mountain bikes set up as all rounders. One of the nicest single 
> speeds/fixeds I owned, and one of the very few discarded bikes I wish I'd 
> kept (the others are largely ss or fixed too) was that very early '90s 
> Diamond Back Axis Team with TA Pro 5 Vis crank with 42 t ring on long 
> spindle pulling a 17t fixed cog for a 67" gear; Flite saddle and Noodles at 
> the perfect reach and height on a 10 cm Dirt Drop stem. The high bb let me 
> pedal at speed around corners and the handling, tho' a bit sedate by brisk 
> road bike standards, was entirely and wholly neutral and seamless and 
> pleasant. 
>
> I've head of using a bb lockring as a lockring for a fixed cog, but I've 
> never bothered with one. I'll be interested in hearing if they add any 
> security.
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 21, 2022 at 9:13 AM Coal Bee Rye Anne  
> wrote:
>
> > To Patrick's note on using fixed cogs on standard freewheel threading... 
> aren't traditional cup/cone bottom bracket lockrings the same threading 
> (for the most part) and is there any value in using one of those for extra 
> security or is the same > direction threading pretty much render them 
> useless vs. the force that may be applied with firm backpedaling?  This is 
> more a curiosity whether anyone has had success or failure attempting 
> this... 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: NorCal Cycling

[Wesley]

George,
When a two grocery chains merge to create a new, larger chain, they would 
prefer to close down any of their stores that compete with each other right 
away. It's the federal government that stops them, because then they could 
raise prices with less competition. So instead they underinvest in the 
stores they don't want. When they are required to sell some stores to a 
competitor, they do whatever they can to make sure those stores aren't 
successful for their new owners. Kroger and Albertsons both want to be 
monopolies, and they are good at pursuing that goal.
-Wes

On Wednesday, December 21, 2022 at 1:26:18 PM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:

> Wesley - thanks for that info.  It explains why we have had the closures 
> of certain grocery stores in our area that have ultimately been taken over 
> by larger chains, but retained their original identity.  But many of these 
> "overtaken" groceries have eventually declined in product availability and 
> produce value over time, which makes me wonder what the intent of the 
> larger "take over" chain had in mind to begin with.  Unless their strategy 
> may have been to take over all of the subordinate chain stores (required by 
> law, as you say) and gradually ferret out the money losers as time goes 
> along, eventually closing some of those stores and keeping others open.  
> I'm sure it's a difficult market strategy.
> On Wednesday, December 21, 2022 at 12:54:00 PM UTC-6 Wesley wrote:
>
>> The multiplicity is because when large grocery chains merge, the federal 
>> government often requires the new, larger, chain to keep the original 
>> stores open. In cases like where you now have two Safeways in the same 
>> mall, Safeway will generally be required to sell one to a competitor rather 
>> than close it. This is all part of an effort to avoid monopolies in grocery 
>> stores.
>> -Wes
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 20, 2022 at 5:52:20 PM UTC-8 divis...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> 1-2) King City (on 101) and Fresno (on Hwy 99) appear to be the 
>>> southernmost outposts of Safeway on major highways. It looks like Vons 
>>> picks up in Bakersfield (99) and Goleta, outside Santa Barbara (101). 
>>> Interstate 5 is on the dry west side of the San Joaquin Valley, so it 
>>> doesn't really have much in the way of large towns or accompanying 
>>> supermarkets; there's a Save Mart in Coalinga just off the highway, and 
>>> another in Visalia on 99.
>>>
>>> Bakersfield has two Vons and three Wal-Marts.
>>>
>>> 3) Something similar happened up here in the Bay Area about 12 years 
>>> ago, when a small local chain named Andronico's* went under. Safeway bought 
>>> up all the Andronico's real estate and outstanding leases, converting the 
>>> store on Shattuck Avenue in Berkeley's Gourmet Ghetto (across the street 
>>> from Chez Panisse, in the same block as the Cheese Board, two blocks from 
>>> the Mother Peet's) into a Safeway in spite of the fact that Safeway owned a 
>>> newly redeveloped store one block away. Continuing further along Shattuck 
>>> through the Solano Tunnel to Solano Avenue, there's an 
>>> Andronico's-turned-Safeway about one mile away (north, roughly) from the 
>>> original Shattuck Safeway. Then, continuing west along Solano into 
>>> neighboring Albany, there's a Safeway that was always a Safeway one mile 
>>> west of the Upper Solano ex-Andronico's Safeway.
>>>
>>> I find the logic of this multiplicity confusing. And to top it off, one 
>>> mile north of the Lower Solano Safeway is El Cerrito Plaza, which contains 
>>> a Lucky's Supermarket - a chain which, like Safeway, is owned by the 
>>> Albertson's Group. The former Andronico'ses in Berkeley have been rebranded 
>>> as "Andronico's Community Markets", but the merch is much the same as the 
>>> alternating Safeways, and the same newspaper sales prices apply.
>>>
>>> If Kroger and Albertson's merge, then it'll be Buy n Large from coast to 
>>> coast outside the southeast.
>>>
>>> *originally based in SF's Inner Sunset district; they'd bought up a few 
>>> other local chains, including the two stores that the Berkeley Co-op owned 
>>> outright when they shut down in 1988 - the original store on University 
>>> Avenue (my home store, where my dad was a board member and the newspaper 
>>> publisher in the 60s) and the fancy store on Shattuck in the Gourmet 
>>> Ghetto. The land was worth more than the organization; the 99-year lease 
>>> for the Telegraph/Ashby store was sold to Whole Foods
>>>
&

Re: [RBW] Re: NorCal Cycling

[Wesley]

The multiplicity is because when large grocery chains merge, the federal 
government often requires the new, larger, chain to keep the original 
stores open. In cases like where you now have two Safeways in the same 
mall, Safeway will generally be required to sell one to a competitor rather 
than close it. This is all part of an effort to avoid monopolies in grocery 
stores.
-Wes

On Tuesday, December 20, 2022 at 5:52:20 PM UTC-8 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> 1-2) King City (on 101) and Fresno (on Hwy 99) appear to be the 
> southernmost outposts of Safeway on major highways. It looks like Vons 
> picks up in Bakersfield (99) and Goleta, outside Santa Barbara (101). 
> Interstate 5 is on the dry west side of the San Joaquin Valley, so it 
> doesn't really have much in the way of large towns or accompanying 
> supermarkets; there's a Save Mart in Coalinga just off the highway, and 
> another in Visalia on 99.
>
> Bakersfield has two Vons and three Wal-Marts.
>
> 3) Something similar happened up here in the Bay Area about 12 years ago, 
> when a small local chain named Andronico's* went under. Safeway bought up 
> all the Andronico's real estate and outstanding leases, converting the 
> store on Shattuck Avenue in Berkeley's Gourmet Ghetto (across the street 
> from Chez Panisse, in the same block as the Cheese Board, two blocks from 
> the Mother Peet's) into a Safeway in spite of the fact that Safeway owned a 
> newly redeveloped store one block away. Continuing further along Shattuck 
> through the Solano Tunnel to Solano Avenue, there's an 
> Andronico's-turned-Safeway about one mile away (north, roughly) from the 
> original Shattuck Safeway. Then, continuing west along Solano into 
> neighboring Albany, there's a Safeway that was always a Safeway one mile 
> west of the Upper Solano ex-Andronico's Safeway.
>
> I find the logic of this multiplicity confusing. And to top it off, one 
> mile north of the Lower Solano Safeway is El Cerrito Plaza, which contains 
> a Lucky's Supermarket - a chain which, like Safeway, is owned by the 
> Albertson's Group. The former Andronico'ses in Berkeley have been rebranded 
> as "Andronico's Community Markets", but the merch is much the same as the 
> alternating Safeways, and the same newspaper sales prices apply.
>
> If Kroger and Albertson's merge, then it'll be Buy n Large from coast to 
> coast outside the southeast.
>
> *originally based in SF's Inner Sunset district; they'd bought up a few 
> other local chains, including the two stores that the Berkeley Co-op owned 
> outright when they shut down in 1988 - the original store on University 
> Avenue (my home store, where my dad was a board member and the newspaper 
> publisher in the 60s) and the fancy store on Shattuck in the Gourmet 
> Ghetto. The land was worth more than the organization; the 99-year lease 
> for the Telegraph/Ashby store was sold to Whole Foods
>
> Peter "the old story was that the frontier was the Tehachapi" Adler
> *plus ça change, plus c'est la même supermarché *en
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
> On Tuesday, December 20, 2022 at 4:06:52 PM UTC-8 Jimmy Warren wrote:
>
>> When a Mason-Dixon line needs to be established in CA, it'll be called 
>> the Safeway-Vons line.
>>
>> Quiz: for any major north-south freeway or highway, what are the two 
>> cities that straddle the Safeway-Vons line?
>>
>> Related question: King City: which store do they have?
>>
>> Related Cliff Claven Trivia: when I was a kid growing up in Los Angeles 
>> and San Diego suburbs, Vons and Safeway were two different stores. In 1989 
>> they merged, and all of our Southern California Safeways got renamed Vons. 
>> So many of our suburban shopping centers ended up with two Vons's as 
>> anchors on either end when it used to be Safeway at one end and Vons at the 
>> other.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: NorCal Cycling

[Wesley]

Winter cycling in colder climates is a fresh and wonderful form of joy. We 
lived in Madison, Wisconsin for seven years and commuting by riding 
straight across Lake Mendota was incredibly fun. Plus, I often had the 
paths to myself and got a lot of entertainment from taking on big snow 
berms. Ice and slush were a lot less fun, though. To each their own - I'll 
certainly agree that NorCal can be a lovely place to ride. The things that 
surprised me, though, are how incredibly narrow the roads are, and how most 
trails prohibit cycling.
-W

On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 9:21:01 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:

> The best winter cycling for me is no winter at all. No compromises or 
> adaptations.
>
> Summer, Summer, and Summer and Summer. I Love Summer HOT, HUMID Green 
> and Balmy SUMMMER ! 
>
> Where there are few to none "cyclists" around. In other words, where 
> cycling isn't popular and there is no such thing as "popular culture" to be 
> found. 
>
> Where is such a place ?  
>
> Right where One could never lose or find The Heart. Home, Heaven, is 
> The Heart. and where's isn't The Heart  but nowhere ? 
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Will's Roadini SS

[Wesley]

Hi John,
You're missing out on coasting! I tried fixed-gear once and can't imagine 
why it became a popular way to ride around 2010. Especially if your single 
speed is geared low for climbing, it is a relief to be able to relax on the 
descent.
-Wes

On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 9:11:03 AM UTC-8 JohnS wrote:

> Hello Ryan,
>
> I'm very inspired my Will's Roadini build as well. I haven't done much SS 
> riding, I'm more of a fixed or multi-gear rider. How do people feel about 
> SS vs. fixed? Am I missing something by not riding SS some of the time?
>
> Thanks,
> JohnS
>
>
> On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 10:57:35 AM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>
>> Have to say...I like that bike a lot. Very clean and elegant
>>
>> And Will's post : 
>> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/singlespeed-roadini?mc_cid=1ea8aef045_eid=0074b52ae1
>>  
>> nails what I like about single-speeds; for some years now my SS PX-10 has 
>> been a fave. Apologies to Rivendell but riding that old Peugeot IS 
>> addictive.  I am curious to see the landing of the Roaduno in 2023
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: NorCal Cycling

[Wesley]

I think John was talking about Athens, Georgia. I've visited but never 
cycled there, and can confirm that there is food every bit as excellent as 
you'll find anywhere. Especially if you're into soul food or barbecue.
-W

On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 8:39:11 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've been to Athens. It definitely doesn't have mountains comparable to 
> what you can find in the Santa Cruz mountains. The sheer variety of terrain 
> from desert to open fields to redwood forests in the Bay Area beats Athens. 
> For food, try getting great Asian food (Chinese, Japanese and Indian) in 
> Athens. It's not even close. I will say that the archaeological/ancient 
> monuments in Athens beats the heck out of anything in the Bay Area. I'd say 
> that music in the Bay Area can be pretty good, but not being big on 
> nightlife I can't say that I'd be authoritative on it.
>
> For cycling, the only places I think are comparable (still a step down) 
> are Mallorca and Girona in Spain. I did a superlative trip to those places 
> before the pandemic (
> https://blog.piaw.net/2019/05/index-2019-mallorca-and-girona-fixed.html), 
> and they are outstanding because the number of cyclists in Mallorca feels 
> like you're in a century ride every day (cyclists outnumber car drivers on 
> most of the mountain roads!), and the large number of hotels/apartments in 
> the area means you get very good prices for lodging. But I'd still say that 
> the food in the Bay Area for sheer diversity beats what you can find in 
> either Mallorca and Girona. Even then their hills aren't comparable to what 
> I'd find in the Bay Area. Bay Area mountains are suitable preparation for 
> the alps or the Sierras. Everything in Mallorca and Girona is gentle by 
> comparison. But of course, that means that Bay Area cyclists regularly need 
> low gears (24x36 back in the pre-1x drivetrain days, 40x51 or 38x51 
> nowadays) that other locations do not require. Some people find that to be 
> a bug and not a feature.
>
> On Fri, Dec 16, 2022 at 8:17 AM John Dewey  wrote:
>
>> Well, LONELY PLANET disagrees, with this to say: 
>>
>> https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/best-places-for-a-cycling-holiday
>>
>> I've lived both places as cyclist, and confirm LP. Athens, with its 
>> year-round warm sunny days, an endless matrix of beautiful quiet country 
>> lanes (i.e. no traffic), delightful hills (mountains neaby), pine forests, 
>> no traffic is a cycling wonderland like no other. Not comparable. Add the 
>> music, UGA for culture, enviable culinary arts, ticks all the boxes. 
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/146626768@N06/albums/72157709138882807
>>
>> Jock Dewey
>>
>>
>> On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 7:21:17 AM UTC-8 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> It's not hype. The Bay Area has the best winter cycling in the world. 
>>> But you don't have to live here to enjoy it --- come visit for a few days 
>>> in winter with your bike. It's not a coincidence that the spate of outdoor 
>>> companies in the 1980s (Patagonia, Power Bar, Clif Bar, Specialized, 
>>> Ritchey, North Face, in addition to Rivendell) all started here.
>>>
>>> On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 6:44:30 AM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I enjoy watching those videos as well! I could never keep up with he or 
 Ms Cools but those rides look beautiful! 

 On Thursday, December 15, 2022 at 9:54:47 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson 
 wrote:

> Dude living in San Francisco here: it’s pretty great 
>
> On Thursday, December 15, 2022 at 2:26:54 PM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:
>
>> At this time of the year I have to admit that I'm a bit jealous of 
>> cyclists who live in California, especially in the the NoCal area of the 
>> "Frisco" bay.  Lately I've been leering enviously at YouTube videos 
>> posted 
>> by "Henry Wildberry" where he and his riding companion(s) are cycling up 
>> and down some excellent North Bay area hilly/mountainous paths and roads 
>> equipped with little more than "fair weather" garments vs. what we have 
>> to 
>> wear in the Midwest Winters. Makes me want to move there...but not 
>> really.
>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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[RBW] Re: Cliffhanger alternatives?

[Wesley]

I am glad to see that Keith already suggested unicycle rims. I used some to 
turn a Redline Monocog 29er into a poor man's snowbike, and loved it. That 
one used disc brakes, though, so I am not sure what I would have done about 
rim brakes. I got them from unicycle.com, FWIW. I used plain ol' duct tape 
as rim tape, to give you an idea of how wide those rims were. Tires were 
Schwalbe Big Apples in the summer and some WTB 29x2.55 knobbies in winter.
-Wes

On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:01:29 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:

>
> I used the Nimbus Dominator Unicycle rims on my Susie.  42mm outside /.32 
> inside.  They don't offer the machined sidewall version anymore, but I 
> haven't had braking issues.  I can detect the pinned joint at times, but 
> it's not a detractor.  They're stronger than any other rim  (they're meant 
> to carry a rider's e tire weight on one unsuspended wheel) but feel MUCH 
> lighter in reality than they do on paper.  I wasn't too concerned about 
> long-term aesthetics, but the brake surface has held up remarkably well.  
>  It's a good anodizing.  I have anodized rims on one of my most used bikes 
> from 1997 where the finish has held up well, too.  In both cases, the 
> blemishes occur when you use them in wet, muddy conditions and get grit on 
> the pads. I have some Kris Holm 29er unicycle rims too, that are even wider 
> and DO have a machined braking surface, but they'd be hard to find. 
>
> Ive posted pics of my susie a few times here over the past couple of 
> years, but can try to take some more if you're interested.
> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 8:41:01 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
>
>> 2mm wider.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 10:39:16 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Alex DM-24. When I was deciding what rims to get built for the 
>>> Hubbuhubbuh, Rich said that the Alex rims were slightly wider - 1mm -> 32 
>>> mm wide.
>>>
>>>
>>> Laing
>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 13, 2022 at 10:29:31 AM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 2.5"-2.6" tires seem to be at the very upper limits for the venerable 
 Cliffhanger. Is anyone aware of a 700c  rim brake rim that is a bit wider? 
 I have not found one.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Roscoe geo

[Wesley]

Hi Liz,
Rosco Platy geometry is identical to the Platypus frame, so you can check 
those numbers.
-W

On Wednesday, November 2, 2022 at 7:36:44 AM UTC-7 Lucky wrote:

> Good morning all, I apologize if this is easily obtained info but I’m 
> looking for the Roscoe Platy geometry and not finding it. I find 
> conversations about it but not the numbers. Can someone please direct me?
> Thanks, Liz in Sacramento 

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[RBW] Re: Perfect tires for Clem?

[Wesley]

Hi J,
Will you please tell us about your stem/handlebar combo? Does reversing the 
stem make the steering unstable? As far as I can tell, you've got a V-brake 
Albastache single speed setup, and based on the terrain in your photo, it 
must be geared for climbing. Looks like fun!
-W

On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 1:39:38 PM UTC-7 J Imler wrote:

> I'm fond of Schwalbe Smart Sams in 55 sizing for all-purpose riding.
>
> [image: IMG-6906.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, November 1, 2022 at 7:33:36 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> The impossible question, right? And when I read Riv's intro to their 
>> website tire offerings "we are not tire snobs" I almost feel guilty 
>> obsessing over such things. "Just ride", right? I want the "do it all" set 
>> of tires (aren't we all?). I have been quite happy with the Gravelking SS 
>> 650 x 48 tires for all road / gravel and mild trail conditions. On a single 
>> foray onto a truer singletrack they fell short in loose conditions and 
>> sandy corners. So after exhaustive research I am considering a 
>> Ultradynamica combo, Mars front / Rose' rear. Other contender  is Soma 
>> Cazadero. Naturally RH Untanum are a consideration but lack of side knobs 
>> are a concern. I had Fleecer Ridge tires on my Jones 29 and did not think 
>> the noise cancellation thing lived up to the hype - they were rather noisy 
>> on pavement especially compared to the Gravelkings. Speaking of the 
>> Gravelking, check out these pics. I was on a ride recently and felt a 
>> "lump" in the rear tire on pavement. It disappeared when the ride turned to 
>> dirt but was there again when I returned to pavement. when I got home all I 
>> could discern was a slightly raised football shaped bulge and it was worn 
>> smooth. Upon removal I was stunned by the amount of structural damage and 
>> the fact that I did not flat. I wonder if something like this qualifies as 
>> a defect? I will add the pics in a comment momentarily...
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Your cyclist vs. motorist war/horror stories

[Wesley]

I've been riding for many years in many places, and my worst experience 
(one of very few dangerous experiences) was this past summer. Near my house 
is a four-lane crossing over a freeway where the freeway is dug into a 
narrow channel, so it's not a long crossing and does not require a climb. 
Traffic is mild. Starting from a stoplight, I made a left turn onto the 
crossing, then a right turn off of it. Once off the crossing, I was in a 
bike lane. I guess someone was behind me, because a van pulled up on my 
left, matched my speed, and the driver began yelling something (I couldn't 
make out a single word, and wasn't trying to.) I didn't look in their 
direction or say anything or slow down or acknowledge their presence in any 
way. I guess they found that upsetting because they swerved over to hit me, 
which I avoided by braking. They were now stopped in the bike lane. As I 
moved to go around on their left, they accelerated and swerved into the 
road and stopped. After repeating that cycle once more, we had moved 
forward enough that I could turn onto my street and ride away. The entire 
time, I never said anything nor looked their way, nor did I make any 
gestures. I have no idea what they said nor why were so angry (the greatest 
possible distance they might have been behind me is 50 meters). I just 
didn't want to get murdered by a road racer in my own neighborhood.
-Wes

On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 9:41:46 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> *First of all I'd like to note that starting this thread might not be a 
> great idea. But perhaps it would be a way for us to share some experiences, 
> vent or commiserate. *
>
> Well, I think a lot of us have been there. We've had a weird, scary, 
> too-close-for-comfort interaction with a motorist. It could be due to 
> driver inattention or downright overt aggression. It could have been your 
> fault or no fault of your own. Do you have a riding story involving a 
> motorist you'd like to share? 
>
> I live in Fredericksburg, VA, a small city built on a grid. We have an 
> historic district here, many streets are narrow with one-way traffic. There 
> are a few two-lane arteries designed to move cars. Posted speeds are 25 mph 
> (I always drive slower and leave my truck in 2nd gear). People drive like 
> maniacs on certain residential streets, sometimes reaching 50mph. I often 
> wish for more traffic calming infrastructure, crosswalks, speed tables and 
> the like. 
>
> In March 2021 I was riding my bike to the bike shop, about a 1.5 mile 
> trip. I was heading down a one-way street through a residential 
> neighborhood with street parking on the right and long, grassy, landscaped 
> park on the left. I was riding to the right side of the street. This 
> section of road has one lane and it is unusually wide. There is room for 
> someone to comfortably pass a cyclist. 
>
> Someone honked their horn at me but not in the "Hi, heads up, I'm about to 
> pass you please and thanks" sort of way but the "Get the fork off the 
> road!" kind of way. It was startling. I responded by taking the lane, which 
> is legal for cyclists in Virginia. I rode dead center in the middle of the 
> lane. I hoisted a one-finger salute and carried on riding. I rode in the 
> middle of the lane for approximately 100 feet before making a turn. 
>
> Yes, this was an escalation. And it was a bad decision. I don't think I'm 
> alone in feeling frustrated by displays of impatience and aggression from 
> drivers and feel that I have certain rights as a human person to ride 
> safely. It is sometimes difficult not to react in the moment. Motorists 
> might be not only impatient but totally deranged. Road rage is real. And 
> drivers are behind the wheel of a vehicle that is easily weaponized. With 
> just a feather of the gas pedal or a slight turn of the wheel they can 
> inflict irrevocable damage to a cyclist. 
>
> The driver responded to my salute by getting within a few feet of my back 
> wheel. When I  made a turn to carry on to the bike shop, they followed. I 
> could hear them revving their engine behind me and feathering the gas to 
> get close to my back wheel but not quite hit me. I continued to ride in the 
> middle of the road. 
>
> I heard something hit the street next to me. It was an unopened aluminum 
> can of a carbonated beverage (I didn't go back to check out whether it was 
> soda, beer or seltzer). Acknowledging the projectile I decided I had to 
> bail and get up on the sidewalk or somehow turn around to where the car 
> could not get to me. 
>
> As soon as I moved to the side to take a driveway apron up onto the 
> sidewalk the car passed me, then got right in front of me and slammed on 
> their brakes. I braked hard and managed not to do an endo onto their trunk 
> or hit their vehicle. The straddle cable hanger came loose from the front 
> brake cable. The driver sped off. I did not get their plates. 
>
> A few days later I went around the neighborhood and 

Re: [RBW] Re: The World's Ride

[Wesley]

As for me, since the Cuban guy is claimed, I will be the one in Dublin.

Great photo essay, thanks for the link.
-W

On Wednesday, September 28, 2022 at 7:21:56 AM UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:

> haha, me too
>
> great pics
>
> On Wed, 28 Sept 2022 at 06:41, 'mark etze' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> I want to be the guy in Cuba. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Chain Jam

[Wesley]

I'm confused by folks who are saying the front derailer caused this. The 
chain that jammed was pulled up from the bottom of the chainring before it 
jammed in the derailer. The root problem is why did the chain stick to the 
chainring (defying gravity and the pull of the rear derailer) rather than 
releasing from the chainring? I don't know the answer - stiff chain links, 
bent chain, too narrow chain/too wide chainrings, sticky chain all seem 
plausible.
-Wes

On Thursday, September 15, 2022 at 7:43:43 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> My chain jammed in my front derailleur. What happened?
>
> I wasn’t going fast or slow, I hadn’t shifted gears, and I wasn’t putting 
> any unusual stress or power on the drivetrain. I was just cruising along a 
> flat street, gently pedaling, when suddenly my cranks locked and I couldn’t 
> pedal forward or backward. 
>
> I coasted to a stop and looked down. The chain was fouled and jammed in 
> the front derailleur, and the rear derailleur was parallel with 
> the chainstays. I walked my bike home and took photos of the damage. I have 
> many questions for you experts:
>
> 1: What caused this? How and why did my chain get jammed in the front 
> derailleur? 
>
> 2: Does this breakdown have a name?
>
> 3: Is this something I did or failed to do e.g. bad shifting, lack of 
> maintenance, is something bent or misaligned, or is it just the inevitable 
> entropy from mileage and time?
>
> 4: How do I prevent this from happening?
>
> 5: How do I fix it and what tools will I need if I’m out on a long ride?
>
> Photos below.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Tall on a Platypus?

[Wesley Brooks]

Thanks folks for the thoughtful replies!

-W

> On Aug 31, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Mathieu Brown  wrote:
> 
> Hi Wes,
> 
> I'm 6'4" and 95 PBH. I'm perfectly comfortable on my Platypus but I'm at the 
> top end of the range and would go with a 62cm Atlantis in the future. I'd 
> take a look at Will's setup on the site, that will give you an idea of what 
> to expect.
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/wills-60cm-platypus
> 
> My understanding is that the "true" height is about + 6cm. Will switched from 
> a flat 67cm AHH to a 61.5cm AHH and says his handlebars are higher on the new 
> bike. That means that 60cm should fit you but you'll need to top out the seat 
> stem. 
> 
> My Stem is a nitto-fillet-faceplater-quill stem at 135mm 
> 
> My Bars are Nitto Losco at 54by 25.4  
> 
> For reference, my other bike is a 64cm Trek 620 and it doesn't fit me as well 
> - It's noticeably a size smaller 
> 
> MATHIEU BROWN
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Aug 31, 2022 at 6:38 PM Wesley  wrote:
>> I'm considering one fo the remaining Rosco Platys and want to hear ho the 
>> Platypus frame works for tall folks. I'm 6'3" with a 94cm PBH. Right now I 
>> have no Rivendell bike but I remember my former Atlantis fondly. I'm tired 
>> of maxing out the capacity of smaller frames with ridiculously tall stems 
>> and seat posts that leave few options for adjustment. The largest Platypus, 
>> at 60cm, isn't particularly large in the seat tube...
>> 
>> If you're about my size, what stem and handlebars are you running on your 
>> platypus? I like my handlebars a bit above seat level and a moderately 
>> upright, moderately stretched forward position. Currently I'm riding a 
>> mid-90s MTB (albatross bars with a maxed-out quill extension + riser 
>> treadless stem) as my everyday tank and a mid-80s road bike (drop bars with 
>> maxed-out dirt drop stem) when I want less weight/more speed.
>> -Wes
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[RBW] Tall on a Platypus?

[Wesley]

I'm considering one fo the remaining Rosco Platys and want to hear ho the 
Platypus frame works for tall folks. I'm 6'3" with a 94cm PBH. Right now I 
have no Rivendell bike but I remember my former Atlantis fondly. I'm tired 
of maxing out the capacity of smaller frames with ridiculously tall stems 
and seat posts that leave few options for adjustment. The largest Platypus, 
at 60cm, isn't particularly large in the seat tube...

If you're about my size, what stem and handlebars are you running on your 
platypus? I like my handlebars a bit above seat level and a moderately 
upright, moderately stretched forward position. Currently I'm riding a 
mid-90s MTB (albatross bars with a maxed-out quill extension + riser 
treadless stem) as my everyday tank and a mid-80s road bike (drop bars with 
maxed-out dirt drop stem) when I want less weight/more speed.
-Wes

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell and Planing - proof?

[Wesley]

As far as I know, that shift lever is unique - what is the story there?
-W

On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 3:15:16 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> I actually know the original owner of the frame. It's been set up in a few 
> iterations. Notably with a nitto campee rack, large basket, and child 
> carrier. I'm assuming it has hauled a fair amount of weight in it's day. I 
> am rebuilding the frame as a light trail / fire road mountain bike. The 
> cracks were noticed while the initial negotiations of the purchase of the 
> frame. We sanded them down to make sure there was no issues with the tubing 
> itself. I am confident there is no structural issues with the frame. (not 
> that I can do ultrasounds, but assume cracking would appear on the outside 
> as opposed to internally) 
>
> The paint itself is way too thick and chipping out quite bad in a lot of 
> spots. It kind of has a consistency of M's. I am guessing any amount of 
> flex of vibration would have and will cracked the paint. I have a Marino 
> MTB with a similar issue with its powder-coating. It just gets small cracks 
> anywhere there is any flex. 
>
> I really love the clementine orange despite it's lacklustre quality, so 
> may do the "fingernail polish" method of just spot covering up the chips. 
> Lean in to the "beausauge" 
>
> The only broken mixte i've seen sofar is the overloaded susie. I'd wager 
> this frame will continue to last and not too concerned about issues with 
> breaking even with light mountain biking. If it does break at any point, 
> I'd be happy to do a full report of the conditions that lead to it! and 
> probably get a frame builder to fix it and add in a top tube for the heck 
> of it. 
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 8:34:01 AM UTC-7 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Wow. That is interesting. Maybe a bit concerning?? So, did you grind the 
>> paint off in those sections just to see the extent of it, or are you 
>> planning to try to repair the paint job?
>>
>> On Friday, August 26, 2022 at 5:38:03 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>> That's what you get for catching big air too many times!  Perhaps the 
>>> real flaw of step-through designs is that the generous standover height 
>>> (read: low-consequence crotch clearance) encouages aggressive rididing or 
>>> attempting of tricks.  In seriousness, it's oo bad you don't/can't  know 
>>> the real history because anything else we offer would be speculation.  
>>> Still... knowing myself, that WAS something I intuitively worried about 
>>> when i opted for the high-bar (clem) version.  I didn't/don't have the same 
>>> concern with the gus/susie hillibikes.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 6:54:08 PM UTC-6 Mike Godwin wrote:
>>>
 Dramatic for sure!

 Mike SLO CA
 On Thursday, August 25, 2022 at 3:15:37 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright 
 wrote:

> [image: PXL_20220825_220133171_2.jpg]
>
> I recently acquired this orange Clementine. We all know early 
> generations paint are negotiable. However, I find the crack patterns 
> quite 
> interesting. Obviously, given the cracking location and direction leads 
> me 
> to believe that this puppy planes! Move over kasai tubing. 
>
> *note. hint of satire here. but also am curious about the flex quality 
> of step through frames. I've found them to feel as spritely as anything. 
>


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[RBW] Re: Randonneuring Bike

[Wesley]

Hi Dick,
I've ben thinking about this myself. I believe the most important 
consideration will be your ability to endure 24 hours in the saddle of your 
bike. The pace for finishing a brevet within the time limit is not so fast 
(8.25 mph), so any bike can get you there. As long as your bike puts the 
seat, pedals, and handlebars into a comfortable configuration, you'll have 
a good base. Then you can figure out what bars, tires, pedals, and saddle 
will suit your preferred balance of speed and comfort.
-W

On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 1:52:59 PM UTC-7 Dick Combs wrote:

> Looking for opinions/thoughts on the best Riv for Brevets, 200-400K rides. 
> Looking for current models as well as older models. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish cycling in Door County, WI

[Wesley]

It's been a while since I was up to Door county, but the Ice Age trail was 
great for the kind of riding you're describing.
-W

On Sunday, August 7, 2022 at 6:14:58 PM UTC-7 Forrest Meyer wrote:

> Any tips or recommendations for good cycling, on Rivendell bikes (or any 
> bikes) in Door County, Wisconsin? I’m okay with mixed-surface roads, but 
> I’m not interested in technical single track. Thanks!  — Forrest Meyer 
> (Iowa City)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Piriformis - Help!

[Wesley]

Sorry to hear it, Philip! Nagging physical issues are miserable. How many 
bikes do you own, and is there variation in your experience between bikes, 
or if you adjust your seat or handlebar height?
-W

On Friday, August 5, 2022 at 7:01:55 AM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> My riding is being seriously compromised by Piriformis syndrome. I'm with 
> a sports doc and in PT for this so don't need advice on treatment, more so, 
> any shared experience specific to cycling.
>
> Pressure on the Periformis area causes both localized pain and pain in my 
> calf. Running does not exasperate the problem, in fact it seems to help! 
> Cycling however is difficult & will leave lingering pain long after the 
> ride. I've readjusted fit & seat height, my saddles are all Brooks B-17s 
> and I stay focused on a spin rather than big pressure but nothing seems to 
> help. Basically a bike ride sets any recovery process backwards.
>
> I'm actually suspecting the seat, albeit it seems to support correctly 
> perhaps there's just enough pressure in the wrong place to cause issues? 
> Anyone's experiences around this would be very much appreciated as I've had 
> to cut my riding time down exponentially and I find that (literally) 
> depressing.
>

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Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Wesley]

Hi Steve,
I love descending on upright bars! It is slower than getting into the drops 
because the upright posture creates a ton of wind resistance, but the 
enhanced view is more than worth it!

A few months ago, I converted my do-anything tank from drops to an 
albatross bar. The impetus was a hilly off-road ride where I felt unsafe 
descending on the drop bars. Hands on the hoods meant that if my hands 
slipped, they'd fly off the bars and I'd be injured in a fall. That risk 
was gone if I kept my hands in the drops, but then my body was leaned far 
forward in the descents and I had to be very careful not to get sent over 
the bars by braking or hitting rocks. Plus, the posture was terrible and I 
was stuck staring down at my wheel instead of the forest around me.

On the albatross bars, my descending position is the same as my 
quick-riding position: thumbs hooked over the bar and hands grabbing the 
body of my brake levers. When I need to brake, I can squeeze with my pinky 
or just shift my hand back an inch and squeeze. Having my thumb around the 
bar means it can't slip off, and I just find the hand position extremely 
comfortable. I just did a hilly weekend camping trip on a mix of roads and 
trails. This arrangement was fantastic!

-Wes

On Sunday, July 31, 2022 at 1:36:13 PM UTC-7 Steven Sweedler wrote:

>
> I’m another rider who started wirh drops on my first 10 speed that I got 
> for my thirteenth birthday. Still on drops 58 years later, always level 
> with my saddle. Twice I’ve built up bikes with flat bars and always went 
> back to drops. I do spend most  of my time on the ramps or hoods but 
> whenever descending, once my speed reaches 25-30 mph I always reach for the 
> drops and feel much more secure. I’m curious how others feel on upright 
> bikes while descending. Steve
> On Sun, Jul 31, 2022 at 4:11 PM 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Marc Irwin stated:   "The point is that riders don't use that position 
>> (I'm assuming drops).  Even against the wind, only one with drop bars 
>> actually got into the lower position.  They all stayed up on the hoods or 
>> the flats the whole ride."
>>
>> Typically, this is because their stems are too low and the drops are too 
>> low to use, unless your a pro rider or a top athlete.   If you raise the 
>> stem to get the tops at saddle height, the drops are very usuable.  I 
>> believe Grant P made this point in a RR in the past.
>>
>> Also, above 15 mph, I can feel the increase drag from the wind resistance 
>> and go down to the drops to reduce it. Others may be content with being 
>> more upright, but you need additional energy to do it.  
>>
>> Just remember, wind resistance varies as the square of the velocity:   15 
>> mph has 2.25 times the wind drag as at 10 mph ( (15/10)^2 ), even though 
>> you are going only 1.5 times as fast.If you a going into a headwind, 
>> the wind speed adds to you wind resistance.
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 8:12:02 AM UTC-4 Marc Irwin wrote:
>>
>>> Eric,
>>> The point is that riders don't use that position.  Even against the 
>>> wind, only one with drop bars actually got into the lower position.  They 
>>> all stayed up on the hoods or the flats the whole ride.
>>>
>>> Marc
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 7:38:12 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
 Is there any doubt drop bars aren’t faster? Less drag goes a long way. 
 A more leaned over position lets you use your big butt muscles better. 

 Leah is up front because she’s a strong rider. Maybe she would be up 
 fronter if she had drops. 

 Eric
 With no drop bar bikes in the garage. 


 On Tuesday, July 26, 2022, Marc Irwin  wrote:

> It was a normal Monday night ride with the Kalamazoo Bicycle Club.  A 
> typical group was riding 15-16 MPH for 25 or so miles.  A good bunch of 
> people in biking regalia on their over the counter crotch rockets with 
> drop 
> bars, except for me and Leah Peterson on our Rivendells. with upright 
> bars.In the lousy cell phone shot I took from the back of the group, 
> Leah is the second white helmet from from the front left.  Notice her 
> posture compared to the body position of all the riders on their drop 
> bars.
> [image: high bars.jpg]
> It was that way the whole ride. Most club riders assume their drop 
> bars make them faster, after all, EVERYBODY uses them right?  
>
> Marc
>
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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Wesley]

I just looked this up - apparently the ramps and pins are meant to aid in 
shifting to a larger chainring. You've said that you have problems shifting 
to a smaller chainring, so I am not sure that my advice is actually 
relevant. Sorry! 
-Wes

Source:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pins
https://sheldonbrown.com/bolt-hole-patterns.html#why

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 2:54:59 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> Hi Catherina,
> Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the 
> problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have 
> any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting 
> chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by 
> swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the 
> crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that 
> isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to 
> say one way or the other.
>
> Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to get 
> Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt 
> circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get 
> 10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.
>
> -Wes
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
>> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
>> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
>> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
>> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
>> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
>> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>>
>> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
>> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
>> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
>> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
>> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
>> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
>> drivetrain for reference below. 
>>
>> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to 
>> fix my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I 
>> could have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, 
>> which would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting 
>> problems (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an 
>> entirely new wheel. 
>>
>> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>>
>>1. 
>>
>>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>>to fix the shifting? 
>>2. 
>>
>>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>>would be willing to sell. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Rear Roadini Rim + shifting issues

[Wesley]

Hi Catherina,
Going with a Shimano freehub seems unlikely to be relevant, since the 
problem is with shifting your front chainrings. They appear to not be have 
any features like "ramps" and "pins" that are intended to make shifting 
chainrings easier. I believe you would be able to fix your shifting by 
swapping to chainrings that do have those features. It is possible that the 
crank is simply designed with wide spacing between the chainrings that 
isn't compatible with 10-speed chain - I don't know enough about that to 
say one way or the other.

Chainrings designs all match a few standards, so you should be able to get 
Shimano or SRAM chainrings (based on your picture, look for 110mm bolt 
circle diameter). You do have a 10-speed cassette, so make sure you get 
10-speed chainrings and use 10-speed chain.

-Wes

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:28:53 AM UTC-7 Catherina Gioino wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I bought a 50cm Roadini a few months ago from someone who had built it up 
> himself and barely ridden it, and I love it– I started getting things in 
> orange just to match the RBW orange that leaves heads turning on my rides. 
> After less than 1000 miles on it (mostly in the city, plus some relatively 
> tame trail riding) I discovered multiple cracks on my rear rim. The rims 
> are Velocity A23’s with White Industries hubs, and the cracks are around a 
> couple of spokes. Pictures below. 
>
> Complicating this is the fact that I’ve been having issues with my 
> shifting. It’s set up with Campagnolo front and rear derailleurs, 10 speed 
> chain and 2x8 gearing. The front derailleur doesn’t shift into the small 
> chainring, and when it does manage to shift, it jumps off or gets stuck in 
> between the two chainrings. Main issue seems to be some combination of 
> too-thin chain being incompatible with older chainrings. Pictures of 
> drivetrain for reference below. 
>
> I want to keep the White Industries hub, but I more pressingly want to fix 
> my shifting problems at the same time as getting a new rear wheel. I could 
> have a new wheel built up around the hub, using a Shimano freehub, which 
> would allow me to shift to Shimano and hopefully fix my shifting problems 
> (but I’d have to replace the entire drivetrain), or I could buy an entirely 
> new wheel. 
>
> I’m hoping the group can help me decide what to do.
>
>1. 
>
>What would you recommend I do since I need a new wheel but also want 
>to fix the shifting? 
>2. 
>
>Maybe someone here has a 700c rear wheel they’re not using that they 
>would be willing to sell. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Wesley]

I have an Albastache on an old road bike frame, and an albatross on an old 
MTB all-purpose tank. The albastache is great! compared to the albatross, 
it is more comfortable to grab the curve because it conforms to a natural 
arm posture with the pinky lower than the index (which is opposite to the 
rise on the albatross.) The albastache lacks an equivalent position to the 
drops on a drop bar, but over the years I've found that I never get into 
the drops, anyway. If that doesn't bother you and if your body is like 
mine, then you'll find that the positions it does have are more comfortable 
than their drop-bar equivalents.
-W

On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 6:30:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I entirely agree that position or fit generally is the most important 
> thing in bike comfort and riding efficiently (yes, comfort is relative; but 
> even a pro will ride faster if he is more comfortable than if he is more 
> uncomfortable, and bad fit is probably the worst thing for comfort), and I 
> agree entirely too that the entire virtue of drop bars is that they offer 
> many different positions for comfort (yes, and efficiency, but believe me, 
> tucked into the hooks against a 25 mph headwind in a 70-something fixed 
> gear is a hell of a lot more comfortable than trying to buck that wind 
> while sitting upright). 
>
> But!! Tell me if I am right or wrong: I thought that the entire 
> smorgasbord of the many different Rivendell upright models came about 
> precisely to give more comfortable upright riding with multiple hand 
> positions -- isn't this right?
>
> I've not used any non-drop Riv bar since the old Priest and original 
> edition Moustache bars, but I have been tempted to try an Albastache 
> precisely because **I thought** that this was an improvement in hand 
> positions and therefore comfort over the old Albatross and Moustache bars. 
>
> Anyone?
>
> On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:51 PM George Schick  wrote:
>
>>  Consider instead what Nick Payne so clearly underscores in his very 
>> accurate post above about the multi-position availability that the road 
>> bars offer a cyclist that upright or flat bars simply cannot.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Which Dyno Hub?

[Wesley]

On "enjoy wheel building":
One benefit of disc brakes is that I can easily build my own wheels and 
have good braking performance. Rim brakes are a bit more particular about 
the wheel being true and round.
-W

On Wednesday, July 27, 2022 at 10:57:42 AM UTC-7 Tom M wrote:

>
> This may or may not influence your decision, but The Pro's Closet has 
> several SP dynamo Exposure Lights combinations for sale: 
> https://www.theproscloset.com/pages/search-results-page?q=exposure%20lights%20revo%20dynamo.
>  
> I'm a fan of Exposure lights, so I went with this combination for several 
> wheel sets I built up. I also have a SON wheel for my gravel bike. I felt 
> some resistance with the SON initially, but it quickly went away. With the 
> SP, I definitely feel drag or whatever through the handlebars, but can't 
> say whether if affects my speed. I don't know if that's an anomaly with 
> that particular dynamo because I don't have enough miles on the other SP 
> wheels to say. As far as rims go, the gravel bike got Velocity Blunt SS in 
> 650b; the road bike got a Pacenti Brevit, also in 650b. I use an exposure 
> rear light, which plugs into the front light; it will stay lit for some 
> time after a stop, which is a nice benefit.
>
> Enjoy wheel building.
>
> Take care,
> Tom Milani
> Alexandria, VA
>
> On Wednesday, July 27, 2022 at 12:32:34 PM UTC-4 ttoshi wrote:
>
>> I agree with all that has been said so far.  I have a Shimano dynohub, an 
>> SP dyno and an SON.  The Shimano is known to have slightly more drag than 
>> the SON and the SP is pretty close to the SON. I have been commuting on my 
>> Shimano for years (and previously on the SP for years on another bike) with 
>> no problems, but it doesn't get cold in CA and it doesn't rain that much. I 
>> would go with the SON for weather-related reasons (as mentioned earlier) 
>> and style-related--it looks nicer, but I don't think sturdiness of wheel or 
>> reliability is a major concern (unless you are really hard on your wheels), 
>> as all of these hubs have been ridden for thousands of miles and I have not 
>> heard of any spoke/hub breaks or other issues from any of the brands.
>>
>> The only other reason for the SON that I can think of is if you are 
>> riding at your limit or where a few extra minutes and slightly less effort 
>> means getting more rest on a long ride (e.g. a brevet), then that would be 
>> worth it for me (I have one on my rando bike--the extra bling doesn't hurt 
>> too :-).
>>
>> Toshi in Oakland, CA
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] High bars at a club ride

[Wesley]

Agree with Bones. Everyone should ride the bike that makes them happiest, 
but based on my experience experimenting with all different kinds of bars, 
I can''t imagine that every single roadie would prefer drop bars if they 
gave other options a chance.
-W

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 6:09:20 AM UTC-7 Bones wrote:

> I think that's the whole point. Drop bars are the only option on many over 
> the counter crotch rockets. Many people are not aware of the "endless 
> way(s) to ride." 
>
> Bones
>
> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 8:52:55 AM UTC-4 jo...@chilmarkresearch.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Garth, couldn’t have said it better myself.
>> Whatever works for YOU is all that counts…
>> …though I have been known to give pointers to relatively new riders on 
>> form, cadence, gearing etiquette, etc. to help them maintain pace in a 
>> paceline. 
>>
>> Johnnysmooth 
>>
>> On Jul 26, 2022, at 8:44 AM, Garth  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I've ridden many a mile and raced with quite low drops bars. I've ridden 
>> many a mile with with quite high Albatross bars. 
>>
>> I've ridden many a mile with "regular/street" clothes. I've ridden many a 
>> mile with "cycling specific" clothes. 
>>
>> Day/night/up/down and all around . 
>>
>> Who/what is to say one "position/way" is better than any other ?
>>
>> That "who/what" is but the given position trying to justify itself !  
>>  Not the rider, the one riding. These "positions" take many forms, be it 
>> formations of size and shape or thoughts/opinions/attitudes inwards and 
>> outwards towards "others". Sometimes the rider seems to "lose themselves" 
>> in these "positions" and seem to believe they ARE the "position". They are 
>> not, ever. One is not "what they say", One is That They IS" .BEING !  
>> ((( laughing ))) 
>>
>> Such is the "egomania" of such "positions" !  ((( laughing heartily ))) 
>> Always seeking validation, a pat on the ol' back, a status up high or even 
>> down low... and a ho-ho-ho !
>>
>>  
>> Nevertheless There's endless way to ride !  As you ride 'em all you 
>> clealy see that they all have thier place/time/space/etc, that there is no 
>> valid basis for comparing/raising/lowering one to any "other" one as there 
>> is only The-One-ALL . This Presence called "Here/Now/This/The-IS" ! 
>>
>> Just Ride sunshine ! 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Which Dyno Hub?

[Wesley]

I'm using a Shimano dyno that I bought off this list for like $50 - it's 
great! I didn't notice a difference from a non-dyno hub to this one, and so 
I can't imagine noticing the difference if I switched to a SON. Mine is one 
of the N72 that looks asymmetrical (all the dyno parts are on one side of 
the hub).
-W

On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 8:59:14 AM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> I’ve been running my Velogical with an Edelux II headlight for several 
> years, with no ill effects.
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On Jul 26, 2022, at 8:57 AM, Brian Turner  wrote:
>
> I recall reading on Peter White's site that you should be careful mixing 
> velogical dynos with certain lights depending on their requirements. He 
> specifically mentioned the Edelux and Edelux II as being ones you 
> *shouldn't use with velogical, or other experimental dyno generators.
>
> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 11:51:06 AM UTC-4 jkg...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thanks, everyone, for your informative responses.  As Eric said, lots to 
>> think about.
>>
>> Intrigued by the Velogical dynamo for my homer, since I have a wheelset 
>> for it already.  Since I need to build wheels for the Atlantis, I have a 
>> sense that the dyno hub might make more sense, although I gather that 
>> there's a case to be made that there's still a case to be made for the 
>> Velogical in that case too -- just spent a few minutes on their website, 
>> and it looks like an interesting product.  Again, lots to consider.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 8:19:02 AM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> Jason:
>>>
>>> You’ll hear many opinions—good luck sifting through the advice you will 
>>> get!
>>>
>>> I have both SON and Shutter Precision hubs and have not had any issues 
>>> with either. My SONs have ranged from the old-style type with flanges 
>>> pressed onto a center piece to the modern (and very pretty) type. I have 
>>> several variations of the SP hubs on various bikes.
>>>
>>> If money is no object, definitely go with SON, if only because they’re 
>>> so darn pretty. SP will perform just as well—I have not experienced the 
>>> “roughness” that one other respondent reported.
>>>
>>> Based on what I’ve read about SON and their weather sealing, the biggest 
>>> advantage that I know of is that they are pressure compensated; SP hubs are 
>>> not. That means that if you go from a warm, dry environment directly into a 
>>> cold and dry one, the SON hubs won’t draw in moisture as the air inside the 
>>> hub cools. SP hubs might, but for this to be a problem, you would have to 
>>> roll right out into a cold downpour. That’s an edge case for me and 
>>> something that has never been a problem.
>>>
>>> Finally … Have you considered the Velogical dynamo? I have one on an 
>>> Alex Singer, and it’s great. Pros: Cheaper than a dyno hub and wheel, very 
>>> low draw, ZERO drag in the “off” position, great German engineering, works 
>>> with any wheel. Cons: Sits outside on the frame, where it might be subject 
>>> to damage (not a problem for me in several years of use), makes a quiet 
>>> whirring noise when running, requires a small clamp to attach to the frame.
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>>
>>> On Jul 25, 2022, at 11:59 PM, Jason Glenn  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi, all,
>>>
>>> I've never had a bike with a dyno hub but rode one a few months back -- 
>>> thanks, Max! -- and have decided to build up a wheel -- my first wheel 
>>> build, too -- with one for an Atlantis.  I know the Son 28 is the go to, 
>>> and I could be convinced to use one, but I'm working on a limited budget 
>>> and am wondering what people think about the alternatives out there.  My 
>>> main use for the Atlantis, at least at the moment, will be commuting, 
>>> running erands, etc., but I'm trying to bike as my principle form of 
>>> transportation (in Los Angeles) and will be riding in the evenings and 
>>> early mornings with some regularity.  Down the road, I would like to do 
>>> some touring on it.
>>>
>>> Anyway, I'm interested in any and all suggestions/perspectives.  
>>>
>>> Thanks, in advance,
>>> jason
>>>
>>> P.s. While I'm at it, happy to hear about favorite rims and spokes for 
>>> the build...
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a069839b-49c0-4e8f-bfb5-000f0ee9255cn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>>
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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Vaporware?

[Wesley]

I found the website for the National Western Complex, and the show doesn't 
appear in their online schedule. I'm not sure what's going on. One of the 
Facebook posts does list a phone number for Don, if you feel like calling 
him to ask.
-W

On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 11:35:11 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> The January update is pinned so it will stay at the top of their page. If 
> you scroll past it, there are plenty more updates (the most recent one is 
> July 6). Just browsing the Facebook page, I see that there's a video where 
> the organizer (it looks like Don organizes the show all by himself) was in 
> the hospital for a coronary embolism in May. So that probably explains the 
> slack organization this year. Anyway, the video from June 13 says the show 
> is at the National Western Complex. Hope this helps, and have fun!
> -W
>
> On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 11:11:52 PM UTC-7 K Griffin wrote:
>
>> Hi, all—  
>>
>>A bunch of us have been ready to head to Denver in late Sept for the 
>> NAHBS event.  The NAHBS.com website is not responding.  Their last 
>> facebook post announced the event… back in January.  I saw references 
>> online to it being at the Colo. convention center, but it’s not on their 
>> schedule.  Same for the Coliseum on the north side of town.  Does anyone 
>> have any more information about this event?
>>
>>Stay cool, and keep the rubber side down!
>>
>> —Kurt in Sioux Falls
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: NAHBS Vaporware?

[Wesley]

The January update is pinned so it will stay at the top of their page. If 
you scroll past it, there are plenty more updates (the most recent one is 
July 6). Just browsing the Facebook page, I see that there's a video where 
the organizer (it looks like Don organizes the show all by himself) was in 
the hospital for a coronary embolism in May. So that probably explains the 
slack organization this year. Anyway, the video from June 13 says the show 
is at the National Western Complex. Hope this helps, and have fun!
-W

On Tuesday, July 19, 2022 at 11:11:52 PM UTC-7 K Griffin wrote:

> Hi, all—  
>
>A bunch of us have been ready to head to Denver in late Sept for the 
> NAHBS event.  The NAHBS.com website is not responding.  Their last 
> facebook post announced the event… back in January.  I saw references 
> online to it being at the Colo. convention center, but it’s not on their 
> schedule.  Same for the Coliseum on the north side of town.  Does anyone 
> have any more information about this event?
>
>Stay cool, and keep the rubber side down!
>
> —Kurt in Sioux Falls
>

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Re: [RBW] Southwest Michigan Rivendell Ride ✅

[Wesley]

I love all of this, and must admit being confused by Ben's custom being 
called a single-speed.
-W
On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:01:30 AM UTC-7 Max S wrote:

> [image: Leah saddlesack.jpeg][image: Platypus downtube.jpeg]
>
> On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:00:57 AM UTC-4 Max S wrote:
>
>> [image: Rainbows and unicorns.jpeg][image: The bike life.jpeg][image: 
>> Rivvy Rally SW MI Jul 2022.jpeg][image: VO Adjustable Double 
>> Kickstand.jpeg]
>>
>> On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:00:27 AM UTC-4 Max S wrote:
>>
>>> Great fun, that was! 
>>>
>>> A few more photodetails and a plug for Josh's bike biz – get in touch if 
>>> you want your nice steel bike electrified properly and nicely. 
>>>
>>> - Max "those last 3 miles were definitely uphill!" in A2 
>>>
>>> [image: Josh Planetary Gear.jpeg][image: Copenhagenize.jpeg][image: Get 
>>> some light in here.jpeg][image: The Rivendell Pirate.jpeg]
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[Wesley]

Yes, zinc inhibits rusting - it is sacrificial, so the zinc is meant to 
oxidize before the iron but it eventually runs out. Zinc coating is also 
pretty weakly attached to the underlying steel (kind of like paint). For 
serious marine and industrial applications, the steel would be hot-dip 
galvanized (dipped into a bath of molten zinc).
-W
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 7:04:30 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:

> Good morning all. Appreciate your responses, Philip, Richard, and Brian. 
>
> I suppose I'm ignorant about how zinc plating on steel works — is it 
> supposed to be a great rust inhibitor? I attached a photo of the basket in 
> question. I was installing fenders on my Hunq and got a good look at the 
> underside of the basket and saw that it was basically covered in rust. So I 
> took it off, and noticed that the rusted points that contacted the Nitto 
> Campee rack caused pitting on the rack. I have ridden in wet conditions 
> occasionally, but nothing drastic. I wonder how common this extent of 
> rusting is? The rust on mine took buseage right up to the cliff and then 
> over the edge!
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 9:27:10 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I purchased a Nitto rack from Analog back in 2020, and it has the 
>> Cerakote finish on it. It looks great of course, but I was surprised at how 
>> fast the coating wore off in certain spots where my bag rested on the top 
>> of the rack. I wonder if the material of a bag placed inside a Wald basket 
>> with Cerakote would abrade the basket finish in the same manner with normal 
>> riding? I think Cerakote is a thinner coating than say, powdercoat, but I 
>> had assumed it would be a bit more durable.
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 8:18:27 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Analog Cycles has some that are cerakoted. It’s tougher than powder. I 
>>> have a 137 from them & is great. Though as we speak it appears they only 
>>> have 137 half & full baskets. Worth a call though. Or finding a local 
>>> cerakote applicator.
>>>
>>> https://analogcycles.com/collections/basksets
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 4:09 PM, J J  wrote:
>>>
>>> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same 
>>> size as the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the 
>>> rusting has gotten too much. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some 
>>> sort to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
>>>
>>> Thanks very much.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: BB spindle length question

[Wesley]

You can adjust the alignment of your bottom bracket by using spacers on the 
drive 
side: https://www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=bottom+bracket+spacer

On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 2:15:03 PM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:

> David - yeah, that's why I attached that chart.  For some reason the 107 
> and 110 have the same chain line (CL), but the 110 has a bit longer 
> non-drive side length (JL).  Not sure what the application would be for the 
> difference between those two.  The chain line (CL) doesn't jump another 
> 3-4mm or so until the 113.  As a buddy of mine used to always say years 
> ago, "why's it have to be so complicated?"  Beats me.  I happen to be in 
> the possession of a discontinued Park CLG-2  chain line gauge and whenever 
> I have to change BB's I attach one end of that to the middle cog (or either 
> side of middle for even numbered cassettes or freewheel clusters), see 
> where the middle of the seat tube (as measured with a caliper) divided by 
> half, plus the distance to where the midst of a two chainrings or middle of 
> a three chainring crank would be and order accordingly.
>
> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 2:33:01 PM UTC-5 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> FWIW, when the BB on my Hillborne needed replacement, I swapped out the 
>> Tange 107mm BB with a Shimano UN300 107mm BB and the inner chainring made 
>> contact with the chainstay.  I though, no problem, I'll install a 110mm.  
>> However, the additional 3mm spindle length was all on the non-drive side.  
>> I had to go with a 113mm.  Something to be aware of.  I had assumed that 
>> when going to a longer spindle, the extra length would be added to each end 
>> of the spindle equally.
>>
>>
>> BB-UN300  
>>   
>> *68x113*
>>   
>> Spindle Length 
>> 114mm 
>> Body Width 
>> 62.9mm 
>> Drive Side Taper Length 
>> 19.7mm 
>> Left side Taper Length 
>> 31.4mm 
>>   
>>  
>>
>> *68x110 * 
>>   
>> Spindle Length 
>> 111.5mm 
>> Body Width 
>> 63.0mm 
>> Drive Side Taper Length 
>> 17.1mm 
>> Left side Taper Length 
>> 31.4mm 
>>
>>
>>   
>> *68x107*  
>>   
>> Spindle Length 
>> 108.1mm 
>> Body Width 
>> 63.0mm 
>> Drive Side Taper Length 
>> 17.1mm 
>> Left side Taper Length 
>> 28.0mm 
>>
>> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 5:42:56 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Unfortunately, the arithmetic does not always add up. 
>>>
>>> 22.5 + 20.5 + 68 = 111, not 110. This means that the Q is 4mm less with 
>>> the 107, not 3; this makes sense as the JL difference (22.5 - 18.4) is also 
>>> 4mm.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 8:14:58 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak wrote:
>>>
 I agree with Bill & George.  The chart George provided, shows a 107 
 gives the same front chain line and C/S clearances as a 110 since the JR 
 dimension is the same for the 107 and the 110.   The 107 gives a 3mm lower 
 Q.I believe George's chart is for IRD BBs.

 John Hawrylak
 Woodstown NJ

 On Saturday, July 9, 2022 at 5:12:43 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:

> Agree with Bill.  I took a look at my Ram with a two-chainring crank 
> and that's what it has.  But attached is a chart that you might find 
> handy 
> in making the decision.
>
> George
>
> [image: image.jpeg]
>
> On Saturday, July 9, 2022 at 1:45:30 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I would expect a 107 would be the best choice.  I'm pretty sure I had 
>> a 107 on both of my recently parted out Silver-cranked bikes.  My 
>> Atlantis 
>> had a 38/24, and my wife's Yves Gomez had a triple.  
>>
>> I just built up a Quickbeam with a 38/35 on the big and middle ring 
>> positions and I'm running a 103mm BB.  
>>
>> On Saturday, July 9, 2022 at 10:46:55 AM UTC-7 Forrest wrote:
>>
>>> If I want to put an RBW Silver double crank (42/28) on a Rambouillet 
>>> (with an Ultegra front derailer), do I need a 110 spindle bottom 
>>> bracket? 
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Susie's Limits

[Wesley]

My understanding is that Clem has been built heavily to take a lot of 
abuse. Have fun, and let us know how it rides with a touring load!
-W
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:56:31 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have been thinking about this a lot lately in preparation for the trip I 
> am currently on with my Clem. I have about 30lbs. of gear including the 
> racks & 3 water bottles. Pretty evenly distributed f/r but perhaps biased 
> towards the front. Bike handles good. Hope it’s ok.
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 5, 2022, at 6:15 PM, Wesley  wrote:
>
> All else being equal (especially tubing size - which, maybe it's not the 
> same across sizes?), the larger size will be less strong than the smaller 
> sizes, while generally having a heavier rider. I am very curious what the 
> rider did to break his bike and I am also very happy to read that he has 
> apparently shrugged it off and seems to derive some satisfaction from the 
> repair.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:12:42 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:
>
>> Well, they do offer the same bike in a version that will support a 
>> heavier rider. But I agree that people who fit the largest sizes are going 
>> to be flirting with Susie's weight limit even before adding gear. For 
>> instance I've got a 93cm PBH and weigh 190+, so I wouldn't be able to put 
>> much on a Susie and keep within the limits.
>> -W
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 2:59:28 PM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> I find the weight limits very interesting. Rivendell has always marketed 
>>> their bikes as the “anti-racer” or “not light” alternative to wispy 
>>> aluminum and carbon bikes. Selling a bike with a weight limit most of us 
>>> would exceed seems strange. A max of 160 pounds implies to me a bike unlike 
>>> what I would expect from a company that urges us to take their products, 
>>> load a bunch of stuff on them, and ride on unpaved trails to an overnight 
>>> campout. After all, if I put 10 pounds of stuff on the bike, I can only 
>>> weight 150 pounds myself?
>>>
>>> Am I missing something?
>>>
>>> --Eric “Heavier than 160 Pounds” Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>>
>>> On Jul 5, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Ryan Frahm  wrote:
>>>
>>> I did tell them that I ride semi aggressive and would be bikepacking, I 
>>> just don’t do any big jumps. They still told me Susie at my weight. So I’d 
>>> imagine there was some other factors for that break. But I guess I’d be 
>>> crazy loaded if I got over it 200 total with me and my camp gear. 
>>>
>>> I can say that it rides smoother than anything I’ve ever ridden, I 
>>> wonder if the Gus truly has that same ride. I only have 60 or so miles on 
>>> it and it has been mostly bike path. We’ll see how it goes when I get a 
>>> chance to take it on some real trails!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 2:18:10 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
>>>> Originally it was 160 pounds, one of the main reasons I didn't jump on 
>>>> the first batch. Over six foot that was a very low weight limit and it 
>>>> made 
>>>> me nervous. Somewhat Ironically, photos of this exact bike made me think, 
>>>> actually I'd be fine.
>>>>
>>>> I rode down the stairs to the underpass on the weekend, I wont do that 
>>>> again. Surprise surprise, Grant knows his bikes best.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/69fbd616-06f2-4179-adf1-a46cf0c81174n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Susie's Limits

[Wesley]

All else being equal (especially tubing size - which, maybe it's not the 
same across sizes?), the larger size will be less strong than the smaller 
sizes, while generally having a heavier rider. I am very curious what the 
rider did to break his bike and I am also very happy to read that he has 
apparently shrugged it off and seems to derive some satisfaction from the 
repair.

On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:12:42 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> Well, they do offer the same bike in a version that will support a heavier 
> rider. But I agree that people who fit the largest sizes are going to be 
> flirting with Susie's weight limit even before adding gear. For instance 
> I've got a 93cm PBH and weigh 190+, so I wouldn't be able to put much on a 
> Susie and keep within the limits.
> -W
>
> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 2:59:28 PM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>
>> I find the weight limits very interesting. Rivendell has always marketed 
>> their bikes as the “anti-racer” or “not light” alternative to wispy 
>> aluminum and carbon bikes. Selling a bike with a weight limit most of us 
>> would exceed seems strange. A max of 160 pounds implies to me a bike unlike 
>> what I would expect from a company that urges us to take their products, 
>> load a bunch of stuff on them, and ride on unpaved trails to an overnight 
>> campout. After all, if I put 10 pounds of stuff on the bike, I can only 
>> weight 150 pounds myself?
>>
>> Am I missing something?
>>
>> --Eric “Heavier than 160 Pounds” Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>
>> On Jul 5, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Ryan Frahm  wrote:
>>
>> I did tell them that I ride semi aggressive and would be bikepacking, I 
>> just don’t do any big jumps. They still told me Susie at my weight. So I’d 
>> imagine there was some other factors for that break. But I guess I’d be 
>> crazy loaded if I got over it 200 total with me and my camp gear. 
>>
>> I can say that it rides smoother than anything I’ve ever ridden, I wonder 
>> if the Gus truly has that same ride. I only have 60 or so miles on it and 
>> it has been mostly bike path. We’ll see how it goes when I get a chance to 
>> take it on some real trails!
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 2:18:10 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> Originally it was 160 pounds, one of the main reasons I didn't jump on 
>>> the first batch. Over six foot that was a very low weight limit and it made 
>>> me nervous. Somewhat Ironically, photos of this exact bike made me think, 
>>> actually I'd be fine.
>>>
>>> I rode down the stairs to the underpass on the weekend, I wont do that 
>>> again. Surprise surprise, Grant knows his bikes best.
>>>
>>>
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/69fbd616-06f2-4179-adf1-a46cf0c81174n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Susie's Limits

[Wesley]

Well, they do offer the same bike in a version that will support a heavier 
rider. But I agree that people who fit the largest sizes are going to be 
flirting with Susie's weight limit even before adding gear. For instance 
I've got a 93cm PBH and weigh 190+, so I wouldn't be able to put much on a 
Susie and keep within the limits.
-W

On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 2:59:28 PM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> I find the weight limits very interesting. Rivendell has always marketed 
> their bikes as the “anti-racer” or “not light” alternative to wispy 
> aluminum and carbon bikes. Selling a bike with a weight limit most of us 
> would exceed seems strange. A max of 160 pounds implies to me a bike unlike 
> what I would expect from a company that urges us to take their products, 
> load a bunch of stuff on them, and ride on unpaved trails to an overnight 
> campout. After all, if I put 10 pounds of stuff on the bike, I can only 
> weight 150 pounds myself?
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> --Eric “Heavier than 160 Pounds” Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On Jul 5, 2022, at 2:48 PM, Ryan Frahm  wrote:
>
> I did tell them that I ride semi aggressive and would be bikepacking, I 
> just don’t do any big jumps. They still told me Susie at my weight. So I’d 
> imagine there was some other factors for that break. But I guess I’d be 
> crazy loaded if I got over it 200 total with me and my camp gear. 
>
> I can say that it rides smoother than anything I’ve ever ridden, I wonder 
> if the Gus truly has that same ride. I only have 60 or so miles on it and 
> it has been mostly bike path. We’ll see how it goes when I get a chance to 
> take it on some real trails!
>
> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 2:18:10 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> Originally it was 160 pounds, one of the main reasons I didn't jump on 
>> the first batch. Over six foot that was a very low weight limit and it made 
>> me nervous. Somewhat Ironically, photos of this exact bike made me think, 
>> actually I'd be fine.
>>
>> I rode down the stairs to the underpass on the weekend, I wont do that 
>> again. Surprise surprise, Grant knows his bikes best.
>>
>>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Susie's Limits

[Wesley]

Huh, I wonder what happened! Reddit jumbles the comments based on upvotes, 
so it's pretty tough to find information. Do you know how he broke the 
downtube? It seems weird to me (not a frame maker, designer, nor engineer) 
that it broke in the middle rather than near one end.

On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 10:21:27 AM UTC-7 Paul Clifton wrote:

> This trip gallery was posted to the bikepacking forum on Reddit: 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikepacking/comments/vpan76/plenty_of_good_times_a_broken_frame_rowdy/
>
> I don't know the riders or anything, but the gallery shows what I think 
> are 3 Susie/Gus bikes and one other bike I don't recognize. There's an 
> orange Susie hauling about a gallon of water, a full front basket, and a 
> massive saddle bag. It's frame cracked.
>
> I'm usually one to scoff at load limits, but I guess at some point, 
> they're to be taken seriously. I'm glad these guys were able to get the 
> frame fixed and finish their trip. It looks like a really good time!
>
> But still, I thought y'all would be interested to see what it takes to 
> break a Susie. As a chronic over packer and heavy person, I'm even more 
> glad I picked the Gus!
>
> Paul in AR
>

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[RBW] Re: Craigslist (and others) Bikes For Sale: 3

[Wesley]

That Heron is gorgeous.
-W

On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 10:07:21 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Heron
> 61cm
> $2,000
> Santa Montica, CA
>
> https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3366921/
>
> [image: p6pb22809883.jpg]
>
> On Friday, June 24, 2022 at 2:21:49 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Atlantis
>> 56cm
>> 1800
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-rivendell-atlantis/7500600207.html
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rain! What do you ride?

[Wesley]

I've owned (I think) four copies of the Marmot Precip jacket over the 
years. It's an excellent minimalist and inexpensive rain shell - just a 
single layer of GoreTex with a hood and zip-up armpit vents.

On Monday, June 27, 2022 at 12:29:34 PM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:

> I have extensive experience with this even though I no longer live in a 
> rainy place.
>
> You can ride any bike. Fenders make all the difference if you'd like to 
> look presentable when you get where you're going. I would wear sandals 
> because they dry out, or heavy rubber boots when I feel like having warm 
> feet. Add a light rain shell to keep my upper body dry. Head, glasses, 
> pants: let them get wet. They'll dry off soon enough.
> -W
>
> On Monday, June 27, 2022 at 11:54:18 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> My interest may sound odd from someone riding in the desert, but 
>> precisely because rain is so relatively rare here (9" citywide average 
>> between 14" foothills and 5" Westside) that when it arrives, it's 
>> interesting.
>>
>> We've had the earliest and rainiest start to our SW Monsoon season in 
>> years if not decades, considerably reducing the fire danger so great just a 
>> couple of weeks ago (when there was a bush fire just 1 mile south of me; 
>> and I live along the bosque). We must have had as much as 2" of rain in the 
>> last 2 weeks, with more forecast.
>>
>> I wanted to ride in the rain to church yesterday morning, but was tired 
>> and late, and the rain kept off despite lowering clouds on morning's ride, 
>> although I carefully rode the Matthews 1:1 with new 4 1/2" front fender 
>> flap and carried my cape and so'wester.
>>
>> On the way out and back I passed a group of young mothers along the 
>> bosque bike trail shepherding a large group of very small children having 
>> the time of their lives riding little bikes in the mud and playing in a big 
>> mud puddle. Funny, you don't see small children playing in the puddles 
>> nowadays, but I remember having great fun, age about the same as these 
>> children playing in the flooded, muddy field across the street from my 
>> house; rather like Christopher Robin in the WtP story.
>>
>> But I'm curious, what do all y'all in rainy places wear and ride on in 
>> rainy weather? I find it fun to imagine the ideal rain bike: fixed gear (no 
>> damned ss freewheel to complicate things), full oil-bath chaincase, full 
>> fenders, with front extending 1/4 of the way around the forward curve of 
>> the tire, and flap skimming the tarmac, with skirts covering the spokes on 
>> the trailing 1/4 of the front wheel and forward 1/4 of the rear wheel; 
>> clips 'n' straps with toe covers; dyno lighting mounted sufficiently low to 
>> clear front and rear raincape overhang; have I missed anything?
>>
>> Oh, and while I've found that rain capes keep you perfectly dry from neck 
>> to knee even in SW downpours with howling winds -- I commuted extensively 
>> years ago across town with various rain capes, waxed cotton, various grades 
>> of plastic --  (and so'westers keep one dry from neck to crown) my lower 
>> legs and feet get wet. I guess this is where Splats come in handy?
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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