Re: [Spits] Serious project!
Wow. got to hand it to him for trying, but_lots of work_! On 7/27/23 16:12, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: Ahh - Painful to watch! Alex Thomson -Original Message- From: Spitfires [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Bradakis Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2023 11:29 AM To:spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Serious project! Wow, this car looks like it is going to need some serious help! mjb. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEbm_LgBjp8 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive:http://www.team.net/archive Forums:http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/aljlthom...@charter.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive:http://www.team.net/archive Forums:http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] [TR] Cheers!
Great job Mark!! I have gotten so much useful information from the lists, I don't know how I would have managed to keep my car running without it. Roger Elliott -Original Message- >From: Mark J Bradakis <m...@bradakis.com> >Sent: Apr 11, 2017 2:29 AM >To: "trium...@autox.team.net" <trium...@autox.team.net>, >spitfires@autox.team.net, 6p...@autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Cheers! > >Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. >26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that >long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with >USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars >and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some >names from back than. > >Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It >got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic >hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source >of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was >not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved >the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple >and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. >Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I >was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz >CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for >about a mere $2,500 dollars. > >Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still >taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained >procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, >keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. >The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer >Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there >were subscribers to the autocross list. > >Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of >automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are >still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share >their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded >individuals. > >Happy Birthday to us. > >mjb. > > >** trium...@autox.team.net ** > ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Is the Spitfire List still up?
I think most people have moved over to the Triumph list and/or the Triumph Experience forum. Roger On 02/06/2017 04:36 PM, Doug Braun wrote: I'm still here, and my Spit is running fine. ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] GT6 Mark 1 seats
Hi, Has anyone redone their mark 1 seats? I have an upholstery kit from Newton in England. It appears to be well made. However, the top of the side pieces aren't molded and when I try to form them to the foam, I end up with the top of the curve bunched together where it goes around the top corner, instead of the smooth curve on the original. Is there a way around that? Heating? Thanks, Roger Elliott 68 GT6 Mark 1 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire 1500 hardtop
Hi, I have a factory hard top for my Spitfire. It is missing the chrome strip that goes across the bottom. Can anyone tell me what the ends of that strip looks like? Are they rounded, pointed, or squared off? thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] High back Spitfire seat
Hi, I have a friend with a 69 Spitfire with the high backs. He is wondering if her can remove the headrest extension and then use the earlier Spitfire upholstery that does not have the headrests. He thinks it looks better with the low backs. Would that be a straight switch, or would he have to do something else. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spitfire with camels
So is that a Sopwith camel? Roger On 12/15/2013 08:23 AM, Doug Braun wrote: I stumbled across this today: http://www.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_606w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2013/12/08/Others/Images/2013-12-08/_MG_77401386537189.jpg ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] isn't that a spitfire?
I hate to say it, I think it is an Alfa Romeo. Roger On 11/06/2013 03:00 PM, Dave wrote: http://www.hagerty.com/classic-car-articles-resources/Features/News/All-Artic les/2013/11/05/Fall-Color-Drives?utm_source=ExactTargetutm_medium=emailutm_ term=utm_content=utm_campaign=Hagerty%20Weekly%20News%2011-06-2013 ___ ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] removing oil pan
Hi Dave, You can drop the oil pan without a lot of work. You will have to make sure the crank throws are horizontal so the pan will clear the crank. Torque is 16 to 18 lb ft. I tighten them in about 3 steps and go back an forth across the oil pan so I'm not tightening one side at a time. Then I go around in a circle to double check the torque and to make sure I didn't skip one somehow. Roger On 09/07/2013 09:22 PM, Dave wrote: 75 spitfire put in a header and a weber apparently the clearance between the engine and the frame, even with the engine mounts loosened, was not quite enough. required a little help. not such a good idea; you can see on the header the oil, which of course makes for extra fun while driving. the leak clearly is right at the joint b thatbs where the stain starts on the header. I figure I need to remove the oil pan, possibly straighten it, and put in a new gasket. any big deal? just drain the oil, unbolt the thing, and then the reverse? torque in any particular order? anyone know the spec? ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] GT6 Head
Hi, I have a 68 GT6 Mark 1 with the stepped head.I see references to Early GT6 Mark 1 heads, at the various parts houses.Is there a difference in some of the stepped heads or do the late GT6 Mark 1s have the latter full width heads that came on the GT6+? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Old dog, new tricks?
I have never claimed to be good with carbs, but here are my thoughts. It sounds like the back carb is way too rich and the front carb is way to lean. I would think the back carb is providing almost all of the gas for the car to run on. As to the cause, I suppose it could be several things -jet adjustment - float level - stuck piston as Jeff suggested - idle screws set incorrectly. But somehow the car is running rich just off the back carb. Roger On 05/24/2013 07:43 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: So this isn't related to Spitfires, but close enough. You may have seen my post on Facebook about the Midget with the loose carbs. Fixed that, still having trouble. So Ricky is Mike's full time mechanic, I just get called in once in a while for odds and ends. Ricky went to tech school, learned a lot, great worker, smart kid. I've been working on LBCs longer than he's been alive. We had a minor disagreement today. So this rough running Midget with the 1275, dual SUs. Put your palm over mouth of the front carb, the idle speeds up and smooths out. Put your palm over the rear carb, engine stumbles and dies. I won't offer who said what about that indication, what do YOU think? mjb. ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Incandescent to LED Conversion
Hi Dan, Here are links to LEDs I used in my Spitfire and my wife's TR250. They make the gauges very visible at night. There are a few things I discovered though. One problem is that they have so little resistance that the dash light rheostat doesn't do anything to the brightness of the LEDs. Hasn't really bothered me. Two you have to be careful putting them in as the light part is not tightly fixed to the base. I twisted one of them apart screwing it in. Three they are a little long to fit inside the domed light filter in the gauges. Some of those domes were already split open, so I just removed them. I did not use the LEDs for any of the indicator lights (brights, oil, ammeter, turn signals,etc). Here is a link to the dash lights I put in my wife's TR 250. They are screw base, which is what I suspect you want. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/e10-1-2w-6500k-70-lumen-5-smd-led-car-white-light-bulbs-pair-dc-12v-51359 Here is a link to bayonet based like Spitfire's use. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ba9s-1-2w-70-lumen-6500k-5-smd-led-car-white-light-bulbs-pair-dc-12v-51198 They also have the ones that look kind of like fuses that some of the Triumphs use as trunk lights. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/36mm-0-3w-6-led-6500k-27-lumen-white-light-bulb-for-car-dc-12v-51170 I tried these: http://www.ledlight.com/e10-screw-base-t10-concave-led-light.aspx, but they didn't make the gauges any brighter. Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire On 04/18/2013 02:01 PM, Daniel Parrott wrote: I'm looking to perform an conversion from incandescent to led lamps for my instrument and dash of my Spit-Six Project car. I researched the Triumph archives and found a reference to http://www.ledtronics.com/. Which exactly are the bulb numbers for the screw based bulb (.36 dia. base, .44 bulb dia. .93 length) marked as 12V 2.2 watts. Same for a bayonet-based blub (.36 dia. base, .44 bulb dia. .93 length), also 12V and 2.2 watts Same for a bayonet-based blub (.27 dia. base, .257 bulb dia. .77 length), also 12V and 2.2 watts Which LED's would be the best replacement? Any help would be appreciated. Dan Parrott Savannah, Georgia 1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ, AKA Rat 1973/1978 Spit Six Joseph 1957 Chevy Belair Mayflower ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Thread size for overdrive knob
Hi, Does anyone know the size of threads that the overdrive shift knob has? I think it is larger than the non-overdrive, but I don't want to take mine apart to find out. Thanks, Roger ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Electronic Tach
Thanks Everyone! The consensus is that it is normal or at least not unusual, as I suspected. I haven't worried about it, because it always starts up rather soon. But I was curious if it was just mine. Thanks, Roger On 1/7/2013 4:16 AM, John Macartney wrote: This condition is well-known on the eastern side of the pond and in Standard-Triumph parlance of the day comes into the category of an i'erent (inherent) fault I've encountered this condition on many later Spitfires, including one that was under my care for some 18 months. A firm knock on the instrument glass is all that's required to make it work. One surely doesn't expect the rev counter to work well for ever, does one? Jonmac*From:* Grant Buss bu...@rogers.com ** Hello I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long as I have had it (close to 20 years). Now idea why. Grant Buss ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Electronic Tach
Hi All, I have an 80 Spitfire with an electronic tach. Ever since I have owned it, it takes some time (several seconds) after I start the engine for it to start indicating the rpms. I have always wondered about that but never asked. Is that normal? If so, why would it take time to start indicating rpms? Thanks, Roger ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch
Hi Hans, I have an 80 Federal model. I think I have a couple of wires in that area that were never hooked up and a couple more that I have because of changes to the ignition. If you can send me a picture, I will see if I can figure out what they go to. Roger On 01/02/2013 11:52 AM, HANS DEFERRANTE wrote: Thanks Roger, I found it !. As soon as I read your email I remembered It. Do you by any chance have a post '75 California Spit . There are 2 mysterious wire connectors coming out of the wire harness near those relays/flashers on the firewall in the engine bay. Are they intended to connect to EGR test equipment of sorts? The wiring diagram shows some sort of plug connector that seemed to be missing when I bought it but the wire color code is different. Happy New Year! Hans ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw
Hi George, The bracket is right behind the hole, but it is cast iron and fairly deep. If I was good enough, I could probably drill a hole in the bracket and tap it for the screw, but I don't trust that I would get it lined up well enough. There is some space right beind the screw hole to allow the screw to poke through. I am thinking of enlarging that space so I can get a nut in there. Thanks, Roger -Original Message- From: George Parker george.parker2...@comcast.net Sent: Dec 17, 2012 1:05 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw I'm trying to remember the configuration here...B But if I recall correctly, the mounting bracket in question mounts right behind the stripped out screw hole??B CanB one long bolt be put through the timing cover, front plate (where the threads are stripped) and the mounting bracket?B Just a thought... v/r, George P. ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spitfires Digest, Vol 6, Issue 103 Timing Cover Screw Stripped
Thank you everyone that made suggestions on what to do. I decided to start with the Helicoil solution as I had the items necessary and figured if it did not work, I could go to plan B. I put the Helicoil in and it is holding fine. Thanks Everyone! Roger Elliott On 12/17/2012 01:10 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: Roger If you buy a helicoil thread repair kit for that size thread you will find that half the inserts are half the depth of the standard thread insert. I think it's 5/16x20 or 1/4x 20. I've run into this problem on my Spit racer and many engines I have rebuilt in the last couple of years. It worked on my race car. If their are any threads proud of the surface, grind them off. Everything you need to do the thread repair other than the drill is in the kit. Another fix would be to fill the hole with weld, re-drill and tap. It's a bit difficult to drill the weld however. Glenn -- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 14:17:46 -0600 From: Roger Elliott ellio...@rmi.net To: Spitfire list spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw Message-ID: 50ce2c6a.8060...@rmi.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi All, I am putting my engine back together. One of the screws at the top timing cover, is held in by the the front engine plate being threaded. Right behind that screw is the mounting bracket for the alternator. Well, the threads in the engine plate are to stripped to hold the screw, and I can't put a nut on the backside of the plate as the bracket does not allow room for one. Has anyone else run into this problem? Did you find a solution? I have thought about using JB Weld, but I am not sure it is the best solution. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire -- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 15:31:59 -0600 From: Bill Gingerich wrginger...@gmail.com To: 'Roger Elliott' ellio...@rmi.net, 'Spitfire list' spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw Message-ID: 000b01cddbd4$c8cd2650$5a6772f0$@com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I think I put a helicoil in the block on mine. BillG -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2012 2:18 PM To: Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw Hi All, I am putting my engine back together. One of the screws at the top timing cover, is held in by the the front engine plate being threaded. Right behind that screw is the mounting bracket for the alternator. Well, the threads in the engine plate are to stripped to hold the screw, and I can't put a nut on the backside of the plate as the bracket does not allow room for one. Has anyone else run into this problem? Did you find a solution? I have thought about using JB Weld, but I am not sure it is the best solution. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Top Timing cover Screw
Hi All, I am putting my engine back together. One of the screws at the top timing cover, is held in by the the front engine plate being threaded. Right behind that screw is the mounting bracket for the alternator. Well, the threads in the engine plate are to stripped to hold the screw, and I can't put a nut on the backside of the plate as the bracket does not allow room for one. Has anyone else run into this problem? Did you find a solution? I have thought about using JB Weld, but I am not sure it is the best solution. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw
Hi All, Several people have suggested Helicoils, which I mus confess I did not think of. The engine front plate is only about .160 inches thick, whereas the helicoil is about .320 inches deep. Would the depth difference cause a problem? Thanks, Roger Elliott On 12/16/2012 03:31 PM, Bill Gingerich wrote: I think I put a helicoil in the block on mine. BillG -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2012 2:18 PM To: Spitfire list Subject: [Spits] Top Timing cover Screw Hi All, I am putting my engine back together. One of the screws at the top timing cover, is held in by the the front engine plate being threaded. Right behind that screw is the mounting bracket for the alternator. Well, the threads in the engine plate are to stripped to hold the screw, and I can't put a nut on the backside of the plate as the bracket does not allow room for one. Has anyone else run into this problem? Did you find a solution? I have thought about using JB Weld, but I am not sure it is the best solution. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/wrginger...@gmail.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Installing Spitfire cam
Hi, I have an Integral Cams camshaft for my Spitfire. They are apparently out of business and I have managed to lose the instructions for installing the cam. Does anyone have a set of instructions from them? Mine is what they called Stage 2. How much variance is there in the valve timing? Thanks, Roger ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spitfire gear shift lever
Thanks John, That more sense than anything I have heard. Roger On 10/13/2012 08:16 PM, John Innis wrote: Not sure if it is true or not, but I was told this was to provide a weak spot where the gear shift lever would break or collapse in the even of an accident. Much like the collapsible steering column, it keeps theses things form impaling body parts. John Innis Murphy '76 Spit 1500 Cedar Rapids, IA On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 6:33 PM, Roger Elliott ellio...@rmi.net mailto:ellio...@rmi.net wrote: Hi All, On Spitfires (at least later ones) the shift lever has a section in the middle kind of like a tube that the end pieces go into. Any idea of what that section is for? Does it provide some kind of insulation from heat or vibration? I bought a spare one that I want to try to cut down to make a shorter lever. And I am trying to figure out what my options are. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net mailto:Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/jdin...@gmail.com -- = = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = = ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire gear shift lever
Hi All, On Spitfires (at least later ones) the shift lever has a section in the middle kind of like a tube that the end pieces go into. Any idea of what that section is for? Does it provide some kind of insulation from heat or vibration? I bought a spare one that I want to try to cut down to make a shorter lever. And I am trying to figure out what my options are. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire 1500 Oil Coller
Hi, I am installing an oil cooler on my Spitfire, but have a few questions. This is on a 1500 with a slanted radiator. Should the oil cooler parallel the radiator or should it be vertical? How far in front of the radiator should the cooler be? Has anyone used the Victoria British stainless steel installation kit on a 1500? Were the hoses long enough? My engine is out of the car at the moment and measuring to where I think the oil filter is, makes me think the hose in the kit is a bit shorter than I would like. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire engine parts
Hi, Has anyone tried either the Max Speeding connecting rods (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Spitfire-1500-4340-H-Beam-Connecting-Rod-Conrod-Con-Rod-Rods-bielle-ARP-/400296672621?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorieshash=item5d338a7d6dvxp=mtr) or the ITM pistons (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ITM-Engine-Components-RY6361STD-Piston-With-Rings-/280914433017?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorieshash=item4167ce13f9vxp=mtr)? If so, what has your experience been? Anyone use rods similar to Carrillo at a lower cost and been happy with them? I really can't justify the cost of Carrillo rods at the moment. Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spitfire Clutch
Hi All, Thanks for the recommendations for the clutch. I am going to get a Borg Beck for 3 reasons. 1) had several people recommend it. 2) It is reasonably priced 3) The one that was in the car was a Borg Beck - it had been in the car for a few years and it is still in pretty good shape. Thanks, Roger Elliott On 09/17/2012 07:21 AM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) wrote: I installed a Borg Beck, 3 piece set in my 79 Spitfire this past spring. No issues on installation or function on my 1600 miles so far. I gets my vote. Mike Mack 79 Spit 73 Stag 80 TR8 76 TR7 I have to rebuild the bottom end of my engine, so I am going to replace the clutch at the same time. Any recommendation on brand? TRF has LUK for $290 OEM for $195 SpitBits has Coventry for $118 Moss has Borg and Beck $190 and QH $160 BP Northwest has Borg and Beck for $120 Victoria British has an unnamed brand for $140 Oh of course FLAPS Beck/Arnley for $400 It seems like a very wide range of prices. Car basically what European trim would be - dual SU's compression about 9.2 - so it does not need a heavy duty or racing type clutch. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500
Hi All, It was actually the second rod.When I bought the car from a friend, I had to rebuild the bottom end - the #3 and #4 rods had spun bearings. (I knew the engine was bad when I bought it) I had the oil galley enlarged at the time. I'm not sure what caused it this time. Here is a link to a picture of the bearing. ( http://www.kcallbritish.com/spitfire/rodbearing.jpg) It was hammered down and over the edge of the rod. Yeah, I suppose I am going to some extra work to keep the cam. But I figured if I am having bearings added to the block, it probably would not be much difference in cost whichever bearing I have put in. But a new cam is going to be about $200 additional that I might not have to spend if my cam checks out and it only has a few thousand miles on it. I was also considering asking the machine shop if they can machine down the journals. The manufacturer is out of business, so I can't go back to them. So I am mainly trying to be ready for different options. Thanks, Roger On 09/21/2012 07:41 PM, Joe Curry wrote: Yes Bill. Let a Professional do it! :) JOe -Original Message- From: Bill Gingerich [mailto:wrginger...@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 4:19 PM To: 'Joe Curry'; 'Roger Elliott'; 'Spitfire list' Subject: RE: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500 Was it the #3 rod? I've never seen bearings for what you're talking about. It seems like an awful lot of work to avoid finding a small journal cam. Perhaps your existing cam can be machined down to the correct size. But I'm with Joe on this one - leave the block alone. If you haven't already, seriously consider enlarging the oil galley in the block as per the competition prep manual. It helps that #3 rod bearing live longer. I don't know if there is a trick to putting the bearings. I was considering doing this when I did my 1500 several years ago, but decided to let it ride. Joe - any wisdom on installing the bearings in the block? BillG 74 Spit -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 1:27 PM To: 'Roger Elliott'; 'Spitfire list' Subject: Re: [Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500 The best way to install cam bearings in a 1500 block is to use a cam for an engine that was originally equipped with cam bearings. That way you don't have to bore those journals. The Mk3 for example had cam bearings which use the same size block borings as the 1500 but have the cam journals sized smaller so the bearing will fit between the block and the cam. Joe ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Cam Bearings in 1500
Hi, I am rebuilding the bottom end of my engine - bad rod bearing. My cam looks like it is in good shape and is only a couple years old. I will ask shop to verify. I am thinking about having cam bearings installed - I have read arguments on both sides. As I understand it, the normal process is to install cam bearings then use an earlier small journal cam. Is there a bearing set that will allow me to use the large journal cam I have? I realize the block would have to be bored out to accept larger bearings. Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire Clutch
Hi All, I have to rebuild the bottom end of my engine, so I am going to replace the clutch at the same time. Any recommendation on brand? TRF has LUK for $290 OEM for $195 SpitBits has Coventry for $118 Moss has Borg and Beck $190 and QH $160 BP Northwest has Borg and Beck for $120 Victoria British has an unnamed brand for $140 Oh of course FLAPS Beck/Arnley for $400 It seems like a very wide range of prices. Car basically what European trim would be - dual SU's compression about 9.2 - so it does not need a heavy duty or racing type clutch. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire Seat Back
Hi All, I was on my way to a car show in Kansas City Saturday and all of a sudden the seat back in my 80 Spitfire reclined way back. The seat back catch just doesn't catch. I took the seat out of the car and pulled the upholstery up far enough that I can see the seat catch mechanism, but I still can't tell for sure how it works (too much is hidden by the frame). The frame is not broken. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't know if TR6s would use the same type of mechanism. Any way to fix it without finding a replacement seat frame? Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Intermittent miss turns out to be fuel tank debris
I have never used a tank sealer kit, but of the people I have heard talk about them seem to be of the opinion that they work fine for a couple of years, then they start flaking off. I don't suppose the leak could be coming from around the sending unit gasket? Roger On 08/12/2012 05:11 PM, Nick Moseley wrote: Firstly, sorry to those of you for whom this is a cross post. Here's the question, below is the story: -what are the groups' experiences with which fuel tank sealers? The reviews on Eastwood's site on their kit do not bode well. The story to date: I've been chasing an intermittent miss on my 80 Spit. The issue seems to have been clouded by a tach that jumps about at around 4700 rpm. The real issue though, is that the engine cuts out for periods of between 1-3 seconds after sustained running, or even bursts up to and over 5,000 rpm. In the latest incident, the engine did not restart, and I coasted off the slalom course. There is a clear fuel filter near the carb, which was empty of debris and of fuel. Eventually, cranking the engine to actuate the (new) fuel pump filled the filter bowl and fed the carb, enabling a re-start. Today, I pulled the fuel tank, and found a leak, and debris in the bottom of the tank. That leads to a possible conclusion that the debris was blocking the fuel line. This would agree with the symptom where the intermittent running often occurred after a fuel fill up. (Ain't 20/20 hindsight wonderful!?). Having pulled away the tank cover in the trunk, a very slow drip of fuel was leaking, which explains the aroma of gasoline. Is there any sense in getting a tank sealer kit, or would I be better to just get a new tank? The POR kit is $72 or so, and a new tank is $200. I have a couple of older tanks here, and none is close to pristine. Many thanks for your thoughts and experiences Nick Moseley __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 7379 (20120812) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Rocker Shaft Pedestal Shim
Hi, At what point does rocker pedestal shims become necessary? I have a 1980 Spitfire 1500 that I had quite a bit taken off the head. It is still taller than some of the earlier heads. As far as I can tell they used the same push rods, pedestals and valves even when the heads were shorter. So I am thinking there is enough adjustment in them that I don't need shims. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Rocker shaft
Hi, How hard should it be to slide a new rocker shaft through the rocker pedestals? I just purchased a new one and it is requiring a lot of force to slide through? Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Fwd: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers
Hi. I am taking the liberty of forwarding this to the Spitfire list. I am the one that expressed interest in the spacers. Let Frank know if you are interested in buying the spacers. They will probably run somewhere near $35-40 range. Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire Original Message Subject:[TR] spitfire wheel spacers Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 08:55:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Frank Fisher yellow...@yahoo.com Reply-To: Frank Fisher yellow...@yahoo.com To: Triumphs trium...@autox.team.net i was approached today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm i would be happy to make a run of these if there is enough interest. they would sell at about 35.00 a pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you live. any interest? Frank ** trium...@autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Late 1500 (78-80) grill opening
Unfortunately, my 1980 Spitfire is no longer stock, so I can't give you measurements. However, the 78s will have a different opening than the 79-80, at least in the states. The 79-80 has the black rubber bumpers with a grill opening in the bumper. The 78 has a chrome bumper and grill under it. Roger -Original Message- From: Aaron Johnson fpspitf...@comcast.net Sent: Jun 6, 2012 12:34 PM To: spitfires spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Late 1500 (78-80) grill opening Could anyone out there with a '78-80 spitfire 1500 take a picture from the front head in to show what the grill under the bumper looks like and measure the height and with of the opening for me? At the last race the stewards questioned the opening on the front of my car and I'm looking for some validation from a stock 1500. Aaron Johnson #87 H-Production spitfire 1500 Southern Illinois Region SCCA ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Shortened shifter
Hi, I found a place that offers shortened Spitfire shifters - http://www.thebriton.com/shifters.htm. Has anyone shortened their shifter? Purchased one from the above site? If so, do you like the short shifter? Rats, I just got an email back from him saying he can't provide the type of O/D shifter I have. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Shortened shifter
I have the impression he can do 3-rail shifters without any problem. Roger On 6/3/2012 7:25 PM, Clark W. Nicholls wrote: I wonder if he can do a 3-rail shifter. Perhaps cut mine down or I can supply him several to get him started.. Clark Clark W. Nicholls 1972 Stag (LE7931E), 1974 Spitfire (FM14571U) and 1 rusty GT6 needing new owner Reality, it's not what you think. ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Pertronix in 1980 Spitfire
Hi, I have a Pertronix unit in my 1980 Spitfire (45DM4). The Ignitor plate is held in place using one screw, so it can pivot some and change the gap between the ignitor and the magnetic sleeve. I contacted Pertronix - they said I don't need to worry about the gap as it is preset. But since the ignitor plate will pivot, the gap can change. Anyone have any suggestions on how it is properly positioned? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire - turn signal horn switch
Hi All, I have an 80 Spitfire with the multi-function turn signal, horn and bright/dim switch. Has any one repaired the horn section on one? when the end of the stalk is twisted in any way the horn honks. That means almost any time I use the turn signals or the bright/dim, I also honk the horn. I know new ones are available, but if I can fix it easily I would prefer to spend the money on other parts. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spitfire Floor jack
Hi, I wanted to thank everyone for the ideas on the floor jacks. I should be able to find one of them nearby. Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire Floor Jack
Hi, I am looking for a floor jack that will fit under the front spoiler on my 80 Spitfire back to the frame rail. Does anyone know of a jack that will do that? Hopefully not too expensive - around $100. Thanks, Roger ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Custom GT6 Dash
Hi, Has any one had a GT6 (mark 1) dash made with 3 gauges? If so, who made it? From the front it looks like it would be easy. From the back the way the dash is routed out for the switches, I am not sure how easy it would be. Thanks, Roger 68 GT6 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Spitfire Oil Temp
Hi Everyone, It took me a while to get this checked out. Several people suggested getting an infrared meter, which I did. Thanks for the suggestion. Most places on the oil pan it was around 200 - 212 degrees. But around the exhaust it was about 255 degrees. The oil pump pickup is right behind that area of the oil pan. When I rebuilt the engine several years ago, the mechanic as I recall suggested making a heat shield to go between the exhaust and the oil pan. I purchased some materials to do that but never got it done. Now I am wondering if it is the reason for my oil pressure being a bit low. Roger On 9/1/2011 9:07 AM, Vic Whitmore wrote: Get at handheld infrared meter at Harbor Freight (US) or Princess Auto (Canada). Just point it at the oil pan and take a reading. It will be a little cooler that the actual oil running through the engine but not by much. They are cheap enough now that you can easily justify one in your toolbox. It will come in handy for other temperature readings as well, such as coolant temperature. Vic Whitmore 76 Spits X2 On 8/31/2011 8:47 PM, Roger Elliott wrote: Hi, Is there an easy way to check oil temperature in a Spitfire? Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire __ ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire Oil Temp
Hi, Is there an easy way to check oil temperature in a Spitfire? I know I can put in an oil temp gauge, but that seems like a lot of work for what is not going to be a permanent installation. From what I understand, the oil temp sender has to be in the oil pan itself. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] VTR 2011 - Breckenridge Colorado
I will be there though it will be in my wife's TR250 not my Spitfire. Roger -Original Message- From: Joe Curry spitl...@cox.net Sent: Jul 30, 2011 8:43 PM To: 'Andrew Lindeman' andrew.linde...@gmail.com, spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Spits] VTR 2011 - Breckenridge Colorado ME Joe -Original Message- From: spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-boun...@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Lindeman Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 5:52 PM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] VTR 2011 - Breckenridge Colorado The VTR convention is fast approaching. Who from this old list is going to be at the convention next month? Andy L. ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/spitl...@cox.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] GT6 chrome fender mouding
Hi Everyone, Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the chrome finishing moulding pieces? I tried prying one off. Thought I was being careful= I had small roll of paper towels with the cardboard tube in it, but I looked back and discovered I was leaving small dents where I had been working. I also tried just putting a screwdriver under the end and lifting. I was lifting the trim. Unfortunately, the body was moving with it. Thanks, Roger Elliott 68 GT6 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Still a few
The fuel line goes up the left side frame rail. The vent goes down the right side rail. Roger Elliott. On 3/20/2011 2:50 PM, Charles Reid wrote: There are still a few of us lurking about, although I haven't seen many posts recently. I have a 1980 Spit in the middle of a 10 year restoration. It seems like that long anyway. I'm currently working on replacing the brake pipes. the rears are finished and the fronts are barely started. The fuel lines will be next. I think the 1980 had two lines (fuel and vent) running from the back to the front along the right side frame rail. Can anyone verify this? Is there a good source for fuel pipes or materials out there? Charles Reid 1980 Triumph Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] GT6 windshield
Hi A friend of mine is working on his GT6+ and is trying to put the windshield frame back in the car. Unfortunately, it has been some time since he took it out. He has some questions that I am hoping someone can help us with. For the top bolts 1) What are the dimensions of the distance tube in the top? 2) Does it actually go through the window frame? 3) From the manuals it looks like the bolt goes in from the top, is that correct? 4) Is the nut a standard nut or is it beveled? For the bottom 3 center nuts, bolts and washers: 1) Are they standard bolts and washers? Spitfires of the same year use wedge shaped washers and Chrome Domed Bolts, but they are visible and they don't seem to be on the GT6. 2) The holes seem large for the bolts he thinks goes in them. Are there sleeves in for the bottom bolts? There does not seem to be in the manuals. For the top Seal. 1) There is kind of a square block at each end of the seal, is that really supposed to be there? I know this is a lot of questions all at once, but any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Roger ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire Berber Floor mats
Hi, My wife gave me some Berber carpet floor mats for Christmas. I really like the way the look outside the car,but I don't know if I can make them fit in the car. The floor mats are long enough they go up the firewall, unlike the rubber floor mats that many of us have. The problem is they also have a stiff rubber backing, so they don't want to bend around the body/frame at the front of the foot well. I might be able to heat and mold them. Has any one purchased any of these floor mats and been able to fit them? These are Introtech Automotive Floor Mats from Auto Accessories Garage, but I suspect they are similar to ones offered by other online suppliers like Auto Anything Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Heater Core
Hi Everyone, I just found out that the heater core on my Spitfire is leaking. The new ones seem to be a bit pricey even though it appears the price includes the housing, at the places it is available. Has anyone had the core fixed at a radiator shop? Are all of the heater cores interchangeable between Spits and GT6s or just some years? I have a used heater box from a GT6 (Mark 1 I think) , but I don't know what kind of shape the core is in. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Gas Tank Sending Unit Seal
Hi Everyone, I have a small gas leak around the gas tank sending unit. The seal is not very old. Should I have put some kind of sealant on it to help prevent leaks? Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitifre ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Adapter In Spitfire Water Pump Housing
Hi, I can't get the adapter out of my old water pump housing. The adapter is next to the temperatue sensor and connects via hose to the intake manifold. Does any one know if it is a standard pipe fitting that I would be able to pick up at a hardware store? Or do I need to buy from one of the Spitfire suppliers? If I can get it from a hardware store, does anyone know the size? Thanks, Roger 1980 Triumph Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] GT6 - Spitfire Overdrive questions
Thanks everyone, I will probably be contacting some of you in the future to pick your brains a little more about this. Roger Elliott Joe Curry wrote: If you need a laygear (main cluster gear) I have a brand new one. Those, last I checked where listed as unavailable. Joe ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Smoke? in the exhaust
Thanks to everyone that responded. Jeff, Michael, et al. I was lucky, the smoke must have been from antifreeze in the exhaust. I pressurized the radiator to 13 lbs. It had only dropped about 2 pounds in over 1 1/2 hours. I also drove the Spitfire for about 100 miles without any smoke, so hopefully I am good to go now. Thanks again everyone. Roger Elliott Jeff wrote: Then I put everything back together. Now there is smoke coming out of the exhaust. It appears to be white. ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] GT6 - Spitfire Overdrive questions
Hi everyone, I have 2 questions about overdrives. I have a 68 GT6 without an overdrive and would like to put one in if I ever get it rebuilt. I had a chance to buy a later Spitifire tranny with overdrive of unknown condition fairly cheap. I did not buy it as I was afraid it would be too much trouble to get it to work. Did I miss out on an opportunity? - Not counting the possibility of selling it for a profit. Also, I know of just an overdrive unit J type - supposedly good condition. I assume the parts to connect to my GT6 tranny would be impossible to find. Is that correct? Thanks, Roger Elliott 68 GT6 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Smoke? in the exhaust
Hi Everyone, I did some head work on my 80 Spitfire recently. Everything seemed to be fine for about 200 miles. Then I decided to adjust the timing a little - it had been set at about 0 TDC. I moved it to about 8BTDC. When I took it for a drive, it overheated some. Then I saw did some checking. There was some antifreeze in the number 4 cylinder. Ok there was a lot of antifreeze in the cylinder, some may have gone it the evaporative canister. So I took the head off and there appeared to be a small split in the head gasket by the #4 cylinder. I think that the rings in the gasket that are supposed to seat in around the cylinder may not have been in the grooves. I bought a new head gasket (FelPro this time) and looked over both the block and the head. Both seemed fine. Then I put everything back together. Now there is smoke coming out of the exhaust. It appears to be white. I just checked the compression - the cylinders checked out at 182 190 190 190 and seems to be running fine. So finally my question, could the smoke be from water that got into the exhaust system or being pulled out of the canister? I hope I hope! Or am I in big trouble? What else should I look at? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Sputtering when hot above 50 mph
Hi Greg, Fuel filters are a good start. I would also check all of the rubber hoses under the car. My wife's 250 had gas problems - I chased it all over the place - New filter, new fuel pump. Finally saw one of the rubber lines had a kink in it. It must have been bent in the same place for years, but it finally got soft enough that when there was suction through the line it would collapse. I suspect it could be affected by heat as well. Roger Elliott Greg Stull wrote: Hello, I have been having problems with my Spitfire sputtering like it's running out of gas above 50 mph on hot days after it runs for a while at that speed especially going up hill. Thanks for any ideas. Greg 1978 Spitfire 1500 ___ ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Door panels and dash plaque
Hi John, If you are talking about the chrome strip at the top edge next to the window, that is the inner waist seal that is a separate part. Spit Bits part # Item #: 612806 . The finisher trim pads go on first, then the waist seals are held in place with clips that slide up from the bottom. It is hard to do with the windows in place, though I have done it. You need to either make a tool out of thin metal - I used the strips that cover the slots for computer cards or get a tool. A couple of places sell it now Rimmer Brothers for one They call it Weatherstrip Clip Fitting Tool part RX1562. Plan on dropping several of the clips into the dark recesses of the doors. Paul Tegler(I hope that is the correct name) has a wonderful site for Spitfire Info. http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/sccaplaques.htm has details about the plaques. There used to be some one on the list (Ithink) that was making and selling them. I did find this site that sells them http://www.collectibles-articles.com/antique/SCCA-Dash-Plaque-Rare-1978-and-later-Triumph-Spitfire_270504695246.html I know nothing about them, If I were putting one on my dash I think I would use thin double sided tape. Roger Elliott mkcaspi...@aol.com wrote: Hello - I am replacing the door panels in my 78 Spitfire - that seems to be straightforward. I am also replacing the door finisher trim pads that go on top - can't quite figure that out. In what I am replacing, there is a small chrome strip, but no strip on the replacement pads. - how does this all go together and how is it all attached? Also, what do I use to put the dash plaque back on my refinsished dashboard, glue? Should the 78 have dates that go up to 73, or all the way to 78? And finally, where can I find a replacement dash plaque? John - 78 Spitfire ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] Clutch judder
Another place to check is the differential mounts. When we were at the VTR in CA last October, my wife's TR250 was juddering badly. We took it to a shop, after a test drive they took it into the shop and put it on jack stands. Then with the engine running, they applied the brakes and let out the clutch. (They applied the brakes to provide some resistance). You could see the differential wind up to one side, then swing back to the other and repeat the process. After the differential mounts, were replaced the problem was gone. Roger Stuart Greenwood wrote: I reconditioned my engine and fitted a new clutch 7500 miles ago. The clutch has started to judder badly and I have to use more than the normal amount of revs to get away smoothly in 1st and 2nd gear. I don't rhink rhat it's due to oil leaking from either the gearbox or the engine getting on the clutch plate. The engine mounts don't look too bad... haven't looked at the gearbox mount yet... all were new 7500 miles ago. What other causes might there be? Stuart a Greenwood 71 Mk IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] HS4 Carbs bolts
Hi, I have had the air cleaners off my car recently and I am wondering, has any one come up with a good solution for the bolts on the carbs/ Right now, there are nuts on both ends of a stud, so I have to have a wrench behind the carbs holding the nuts while I am taking them off the front. It seems like there must be a solution like using helicoil. Has anyone done that? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] HS4 Carbs bolts
I should have said I am talking about the air cleaner bolts. The holes in the carbs for them have never been threaded. Roger Roger Elliott wrote: Hi, I have had the air cleaners off my car recently and I am wondering, has any one come up with a good solution for the bolts on the carbs/ Right now, there are nuts on both ends of a stud, so I have to have a wrench behind the carbs holding the nuts while I am taking them off the front. It seems like there must be a solution like using helicoil. Has anyone done that? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/ellio...@rmi.net ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] 80 Spitfire Timing Chaing Cover
Hi I am working on my engine and will have the timing chain cover off. So I was thinking about powder coating it. Will normal powder coating hold up to the temp for the timing chain cover, or does it need to be High Temp powder coat? Any suggestions for what would be a close to correct color to use? My cover is orange, I believe close to original. I know I painted it once before, but I tried to pick a color close to the original. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Spitfire Head
Hi, I have an 80 Spitfire that I am thinking about taking the head off so I can bump the compression to somewhere around 9.0 - 9.5 from the stock 7.5. I rebuilt the lower end several years ago, but did not touch the head as it was judged to be in fine shape and I did not have spare money at the time. I am pretty sure the head is stock, but is there a way to verify that before taking the head off? I know that the only way to tell for sure is to measure the volume with the head off, but I would hate to take the head off, then find out it was already at 9.0 compression. So I would like to sort of confident that there was a good reason for me to take the head off. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Hard top hoist
Hi Everyone, Is anyone using a hoist to lift and store their Spitfire hard top? If so, what hoist are you using? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Rear Spring
Hi everyone, I am still in the middle of rebuilding my rear spring. When I put the clips on that hold 4 of the springs together - one side of the clip always slides out from under the little knob that they are supposed to be under. Any suggestions on how to get the clips to stay in place? I turned the clips around - the clip that slides out is determined by the side of the spring the clip is on - not the clip itself. Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring
Hi Everyone, I am not expecting a lot. However, I have wanted to check the rubber disks for some time. Since I had the differential out of the car, now seemed a perfect time to do it. I got the disks from Spit Bits - I am not sure if they are rubber or polyurethane. They seem harder than I would expect for rubber, but they don't have the shiny surface that polyurethane seems to have. Spits Bits order page said 8 required but they are sold per item not as a kit so you could order 6 if you want. Victoria British also carries them. I thought I had checked both of these vendors before without success, but apparently I overlooked the item. One more question, the Haynes manual says that the unstamped legs of the spring clamps go to the rear. My spring was replaced about 10 years ago and I don't see stamping on the spring clamps. Does the spring have a front and back? Thanks, Roger Elliott Greg Stull wrote: Are these bushings the little rubber discs that are between the leaves at either end of the spring? Yes Are they actually available? Found them on E-Bay. How long could a piece of rubber or plastic last, being rubbed between two spring leaves like that? Probably not that long, but I'm going to find out. Greg 1978 Spitfire 1500 - Original Message - From: Doug Braun d...@dougbraun.com To: Spitfire list spitfires@autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring Are these bushings the little rubber discs that are between the leaves at either end of the spring? Are they actually available? I have never taken my spring apart, and I always assumed that the bushings completely disintegrated years and years ago. How long could a piece of rubber or plastic last, being rubbed between two spring leaves like that? Doug Braun '72 Spit --- On Fri, 10/30/09, Greg Stull gas...@roadrunner.com wrote: From: Greg Stull gas...@roadrunner.com Subject: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring To: Spitfire Group spitfires@autox.team.net Date: Friday, October 30, 2009, 4:27 PM Note: I replied to Roger's post and the list, but it didn't get through. Or at least I didn't get it. So here it is again. If you get two messages that's why. Greg ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as gas...@roadrunner.com Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as ellio...@rmi.net Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Bushings
Hi, I am still working on my differential and leaf spring. I am trying to replace the mounting bushings on both, but cannot get them out. They are the ones with a external metal sleeve, rubber then an internal metal sleeve. Both the differential and spring are out of the car. On the spring I have tried using a bolt - socket that that bushing will fit into - bushing - socket about the same size as the bushing then a nut and tightening it. I didn't get anywhere. I don't have a socket large enough for the differential bushing to slide into. Any suggestions on how to get them out? Thanks, Roger ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring
The ones I got were just solid disks about the diameter of the indentation on the leaves. Roger Doug Braun wrote: What holds them im place? Don't the stock bushings have some sort of nipple that fits into a hole drilled on one of the leaves? Doug --- On Sat, 10/31/09, Joe Curry spitl...@cox.net wrote: From: Joe Curry spitl...@cox.net Subject: Re: [Spits] Rear Leaf Spring To: 'Greg Stull' gas...@roadrunner.com, 'Spitfire list' spitfires@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, October 31, 2009, 10:49 AM I used some thick Teflon washers I found at Home Depot. They seem to last longer than rubber. Joe ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as ellio...@rmi.net Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Spitfire 1500 differential
Hi Everyone, I wanted to let everyone know I got the bolt out. It was easier than I expected. I did manage to find an almost straight shot at the bolt to hit it with a drift. There was a brake line junction that was in a direct line with the bolt. Once I got the bolt started by hammering on it I was able to pry it out. Thanks every one for the advice! Now I have new questions. I am replacing the bushings\spacers in the leaf spring. According to what I have read there are 8 of them. I have only found 6 in the spring. I did not find any between the 2 longest springs which is where it seems there should be some. Should mine have had them there? Also, the Haynes manual indicates that the leaves should be lubricated with graphite grease. The only graphite lubricant I can find is what you use for locks. So I was planning on using Lithium grease. Does that make sense? Also where would I grease it, it seems the main points of contact are the bushings? Thanks, Roger Elliott Roger Elliott wrote: I have the differential almost removed. But I have run into a problem. I can't get the long bolt that runs through the rear mounts out. I have the nut off, but I can't get the bolt to budge. I can't figure out a way to get any leverage on it. The end of the bolt is pointed so even if I could get to the end any punch I have would slide off when I hit it with a hammer. Of course there is no straight shot at it any way. Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out? Thanks, Roger Elliott _ ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Spitfire 1500 differential
Hi, I decided I was going to replace the front differential bushings on the Spitfire as I was having similar symptoms that my wife was having on her 250. (juddering in first and reverse went starting off). Her probelm was corrected by the differential bushings. It turns out you to do it with the differential in the cat you must remove the input, So I decided that I should break down and have the differential rebuilt as it leaks rather badly and whines. Not sure how important the whining is as it has been doing it almost forever. I have the differential almost removed. But I have run into a problem. I can't get the long bolt that runs through the rear mounts out. I have the nut off, but I can't get the bolt to budge. I can't figure out a way to get any leverage on it. The end of the bolt is pointed so even if I could get to the end any punch I have would slide off when I hit it with a hammer. Of course there is no straight shot at it any way. Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] PPG Paint
Hi Does anyone have PPG paint information for 1980 Triumph Spitfire White NCG? I went to a paint store to get some touch up paint and they can't find anything on this code. Thanks, Roger ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html You are subscribed as arch...@jab.org Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] Leaf Spring Restoration
I have been wanting to do something to rebuild my springs based on a couple of articles that I have read about replacing the rubber buttons. Of course one of the authors made his out of brass the other out of nylatron(?) or polyurethane, They both had access to lathes to do this. However, I have not been able to find a source for the buttons even from a spring shop. Have you found a source? I am guessing that the rubber disentegrating is a part of what causes the problem. If the rubber is gone, then you have removed a half an inch of height or so on the spring I suspect that having a more resilient substance would help prevent the sag. The other thing to consider as a mechanic pointed out to me just a couple of days ago, the Spit has a negative 2.75 - 4.75 degree camber specification. To a lot of people even that looks bad. Roger Daniel Parrott wrote: In my frame-off restoration of my Spit Six, I'm dissembling the rear leaf spring in order to replace the rubber buttons. The leafs springs are being held by four brackets, two U shaped brackets with nuts and bolts, and two more with brackets that encircle the springs instead of bolts. My Haynes manual says simply to bend the leaf clips to remove the leafs. Really? The metal seems substantial and won't want to be easily bent back. Also, the Rear leaf spring was pretty greasy. I was able to disassemble the first three leafs without much trouble. But as I wire-brushed the top leaf, I found a note that says FRONT, but I don't know which way the leafs should be reassembled. Which way should these leafs face, not that I dissembled most of the rear leaf spring? TIA Dan Parrott Savannah, Ga 1980 Triumph Spitfire PJ 1972/1978 Spit Six Project car Joseph ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Tach Rebuild
Hi Everyone, It appears that it is time to have my wife's TR250 tach rebuilt. The tach pegs at idle or close to it. What is general recommendation these days? Nisonger, MoMa (I have seen this name but not any contact info) or West Valley Instrument Specialists? Or some other one? Thanks, Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] A movie NOT for Triumph fans -
contest to prove eligibility of marriage thing. One of the events was to launch, the equivalent of a telephone pole by cradling it in your hands, (yeah, I know I didnt write the script) as far as one could. The event is known as a caber toss. It is a big event at Scottish Highland Games. The poles (caber) keep getting larger. The goal is to make the caber land on its end and flip over in a straight line. Scoring is like a clock 12 is straight 1 is off to the right etc. Roger Elliott ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Oil Cooler Size
Hi everyone. I asked a question about oil cooler adapters a couple of weeks ago and got some good answers. But I have another question. I am thinking of putting an oil cooler on my Spitfire because the oil pressure starts out at 60 and especially in warm weather seems to drop quite a bit. I am running 20w-50 oil. I do some spirited driving but no racing. Would a 10 or 13 row cooler help this? Any suggestions of which would be best? Ted S recommended a remote filter instead of the sandwich style takeoff. Has anyone done this? If so where did you mount the remote filter? Thanks for you help. Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Oil Cooler
I have heard of troubles with the adapters for screw on oil filters leaking. Do the adapters for using an oil cooler have the same problem? Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Tire Pressure
Hi Everyone, I finally got new tires for the Spitfire - Sumitomo HTR 200.A couple of people recommend these tires to me. I am pretty impressed so far, though I haven't driven very far yet. I am curious as to what tire pressure I should use. I know the pressure for the original tires was 21 front/ 26 rear. The tire shop put 30 front/30 rear. I was thinking of trying 25 front/30 rear which would maintain the 5 pound difference between the front and rear. So out of curiosity what is everyone running in their tires? This is on a 1980 Spit 175/70 13 inch tires. Thanks, Roger 1980 Spitfire ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
[Spits] Door handle gaskets
Hi Everyone, When I had the Spitfire repainted, I put new gaskets on. Before I put them on I painted them to seal out the moisture. I don't remember now if I used black paint or a rubberized coating. They looked fine for a while but soon started looking horrible, I assume from absorbing moisture. It seems like I remember a comment on this list a few years ago about someone supplying rubber door gaskets. Does anyone remember who that was? If I can't find them I may by a normal set of gaskets and cut my own out of rubber. Thanks, Roger ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
I have been chasing similar problems for quite a while. It never
occurred to me that the problem could be too high of fuel pressure.
What did you need to set the pressure at to make the car run correctly?
I stopped at Napa, they had one that could be adjusted 2 - 4 pounds and
one that could be adjusted 4-9 pounds.
Thanks,
Roger Elliott
Paul Meyer wrote:
Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being
caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure. Idle was ok, but as
soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or
stall. I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.
I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some improvement,
but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev conditions.
Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that
solved it.
Paul F. Meyer
Home Phone:781-551-8574
Cell Phone: 781-801-3170
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Original Message Follows
From: David Woerpel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500
Hello,
I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500. He's removed the
Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's. I'm one of the masochistic types
that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA
or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.
The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how
much) and the rest is stock as far as we know. It was running happily
and he decided that he wanted SU's. The carbs are set correctly. We
started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are
centered). The float levels are at 3/16, oil in the dashpot (1/2
above tube). The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise
equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it
starts to stall. Add choke; it runs. Push off the choke and it wants
to die. When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally
coughs back through the carbs and dies.
The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed. It
ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float
bowl overflows. I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much
pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat. New rubber tipped
ones are on order. The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect
timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth. Just for kicks, what are
the timing specs for a 79 1500? He has no manual and mine are for my
above cars.
Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI
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[Spit] 80 Spitfire front bumper replacement
Hi Everyone, I am in the process of putting a chrome bumper on my 80 Spitfire. I know that I need to remove some of the metal that is there for the rubber bumpers. Does anyone have a picture of what need to be removed? For anyone that has done this, were you able to save the metal parts removed or were they destroyed? I am just wondering if the process can be reversed if wanted some time. Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
GT6 Carpet
Hi Everyone, I was thinking about buying a molded carpet set from Rimmer Bros while they have them on sale. However, I want loop carpet and when I asked (by email) them if it was loop carpet I was told it tufted. Well, according to my web search tufted carpet can be loop or cut pile or a combination. I suspect Rimmer's answer means it is cut pile. I will sent an email to clarify their answer- but since their sale isn't on much longer I was hoping someone on the list might know if it is loop or not. Does anyone know of a source of molded loop carpet for a 1968 GT6? Or has anyone installed both a molded and a regular set to know if the molded is worth the extra expense? Thanks, Roger Elliott Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Magnificent Obsession
Has anyone on the list purchased Magnificent Obsession by Jeff McNeal? If so is it a good book to have? Thanks, Roger Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Spitfire Heater Hoses
I am replacing the hoses on my 80 Spitfire. There is a hose that goes from the water return pipe to the intake manifold pipe. The hose is 1/2 id which works on the manifold pipe but is a little too big for the water return pipe. It seems the return pipe must be about 7/16 Has anyone else run into this? Does anyone make a better fitting one? ( I got mine from Vickie B) Do I just clamp it down? Thanks, Roger Elliott Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Front bumper replacement
I am planning on replacing the front bumper on my 80 Spitfire with a chrome bumper. I recently saw a website with info on how to do this. Of course, now that I am looking for it I can't find it again. I tried doing a Google search with no luck. Anyone know of the site? Thanks, Roger Elliott Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Hard Top Molding
Hi everyone, There is supposed to be a piece of trim below the rear window on a factory Spitfire hardtop. The trim piece doesn't seem to be available anymore. Has anyone found a suitable replacement for it? Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
1500 Spitfire Engine
I have a friend who needs to rebuild his Spitfire engine. When I did mine, I remember the mechanic made a couple of recommendations. 1. Drill out some of the oil passages - for 3 4 connecting rods. Can anyone give me more specifics? 2. The use of MGB bearings either on the connecting rods or on the crankshaft. It seems the only modification that needed to be made was to radius the area where the bearing sat. Again, can anyone help me with the specifics? I think these were both common modifications to be made, but I might be wrong about that. Thank you, Roger Elliott Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: SU HS 4
Hi Chris, Unfortunately, there were no washers under the needle valve to remove. I ended up shaving a little of the plastic off the float where the needle valve hits it. I got it down to 3/16. So I was happy. Roger Chris King wrote: Your float lids may be frm later SU's like mine (FZX1122). The float level is adjusted by the thickness of the washers used on the needle valve seat. Pull the pivot pin for the float, and then you'll be able to remove the float and see the needle valve and seat. The seat has a hex so it's easy to remove. If you're lucky, the 1/4 one will have more than 1 washer, so you'll be able to adjust the seat by removing one. If you're unlucky, you'll need to order thinner washers. Hope this helps. -=Chris Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
SU HS 4
Hi Everyone. I have a 80 Spitfire that I have put dual SU HS4s on. I have 2 questions. 1. The float chamber tops are different front carb to back carb. Is the only difference the fuel lines? The reason that I am asking is that I the float bowls that I have are from an early Spitfire, where I believe the fuel line came into the front one and then continued to the back one. I want to run the fuel line into the back one and then to the front. 2. The floats all seem to be solid plastic now. So there is no metal tab to adjust the float level. I have 2 different references for my carb. One says the float level should be 1/8 the other says 3/16. Well, on mine I have 3/16 and 1/4. I see no way of adjusting them. What is correct? I tried switching the floats and even tried a different float the problem persists. Thanks, Roger Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Stripped oil sump bolt threads in aluminum filler piece at front of engine
Nick, I used a helicoil equivalent. I was worried as I do not have a drill press. But the holes provided enough guidance that I had no trouble. It worked great. Roger Nick Moseley wrote: As I understand it, the options are: -helicoil to replace the threads, means added expense of a helicoil kit, plus the (very real) possibility that I'd drill the new holes at an angle -new aluminum block, but I recall this coming up before, so it must be a weak point -new metal (instead of aluminum) block (filler piece), I remember seeing these on e-bay in the past, but can't find them lately. Anyone know the seller? Any preferences? One misgiving about the metal block relates to why Triumph would use aluminum in the first place if it didn't need it, but there is not always a rhyme to their reason. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: Source of Phenolic Spacers for Spitfire HS4 Carbs
Ron, Check out http://www.aptfast.com/ Click on the SU carb link in the left column. They have an assortment of thicknesses. Roger Ronald R. Deaver, PMP, MCP wrote: Hello all, I am close to getting my 1980 Spitfire running with HS4 carbs. Preferring to do it right, I would like to put phenolic spacers on the carbs to cut heat transfer. I recall that someone mentioned that some MG models had the HS4 carbs stock, allowing for easy sourcing of the spacers. Can anyone point me to a source for the spacers and advise what model/year to order the parts under in order to get the correct spacers? It is my hope I can get them this next week and finally end 3 years of a non-mobile car. Regards, Ron Deaver White Lake, MI Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: 1980 electric fan
Thank you. I finally found the fuse. It was okay as verified by a VOM. My problem seems to be that there is no voltage at the thermo switch on the radiator. After studying the wiring diagram for quite awhile. It looks like the power to the thermo switch comes through the relay, then to the thermo switch, then to ground. Is that right or is my thinking shorted out? If I am right, I should have power at 2 of the connectors at the relay. 1. the white wires coming in should provide power to the go to the thermo switch. 2. the wire that provides the power to the fan. Only the wire that provides the power to the fan has voltage in it. Is there someplace I should be looking for a loose connection. I have crawled under the dash and looked under the bonnet, but nothing is jumping out at me. Thanks, Roger Elliott Spitfire 1500 wrote: Check in the little glove box 'cubby hole' area in the driver's side(where my garage door opener goes). There's an inline fuse to the fan. Mine melted continually, and with that, no fan. I just directly hooked it up, and it was fan time again. Or check your thermostat on the radiator to see if it conducts under heat. Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2006 13:39:09 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 1980 Electric Fan I seem to have lost power to my electric fan. There is no voltage in either wire going to the sensor in the radiator. I assume that is the switch that turns on the fan, perhaps with the assistance of a relay. If there is a relay, where is it? Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Spitfire Ignition Problems
I have been trying to figure out the starting problem on my Spitfire for quite awhile now. My problem all started with a hole in the intake manifold. I had driven it to work - about 45 miles. The last 2 miles it was running very rough, but I made it to work. After work the Spitfire refused to start so I had it towed home. After working on it a couple of different times I finally found the hole on the underside of the intake manifold. This is on a dual SU setup. I had the throttle return springs hooked up to a bracket bolt to the underside of the manifold - normally it the intake would have been bolted to the exhaust manifold, but I have an exhaust header. The springs apparently had enough pressure to break the manifold. So I got that repaired. I thought that the Spitfire would fire right up once I bolted everything back on. I got new throttle return levers so I could hook the springs up the way they should be. I rough timed it using one of those whistles that screw in like a spark plug and let you find tdc. Anyway, now the car still will not start. It seems to have pretty good spark at the coil wire, but at the spark plug wires it seems to have a puny yellow spark instead of a good blue one. I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor and plugs, tried two sets of wires, two or three coils. It still seems to have a weak spark at the plugs. Oh, I should mention it has a Pertronix ignition system. I checked that according to their web site - it was okay. I put on a new one as I decided it would not hurt to have a spare anyway. So what else do I check? Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: 1980 Spitfire Head
I want to thank everyone for information on milling down a Spitfire head. I know that Ted is right - to be sure I need to cc the engine. Anyway, right now I have decided to hold off. I have enough to do without dealing with the Spitfire head. The main thing making me think about it was I had the manifold off to get it repaired - there was a hole in it about the size of my thumb. Since I had the intake manifold off I was thinking it would not be much more of a chore to take the head off as well. The welding shop got the head done the same day I took it in, so for now I am not messing with the head. Thanks for all the information. Roger Elliott [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am considering having the head on my Spitfire milled down to give me a little more compression. It is a stock 80 head so it is currently about 7.5 to 1. I am thinking of taking it to about 9 to 1. Can anyone tell me how much I would need to take off to get it to that compression? If I do have it milled down, do I need to get shorter pushrods or is that within normal adjustment. Thanks, Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: air conditioning in a gt6?
Hi Scott, I am in the long process of redoing my 68 GT6. I want to put air conditioning in it also. I have looked for things that might work, though I haven't spent a lot of time on it yet. No one seems to have a kit for it. But Vintage Air (http://www.vintageair.com/) and Hot Rod Air have (http://www.hotrodair.com/) products that might be able to be used. I just ran across TBI products (http://www.tbiproducts.com). Anyway, if you get any good ideas, please let me know or post it to the list. Thanks, Roger Elliott 68 GT6 scott wrote: how do all, I used to be on the spitfire and triumphs list about seven, eight years ago. the spit's been holed up in the garage for all but two days since then. but work is slowing down a little, and I saw the only (other, besides the spitfire) triumph I've lusted after yesterday--a mk. 1 gt6. the job thing means I have some money laying around, and the gt6 hasn't lost anything on looks. so I thought I'd buy it, but that leads to why the spit was furloughed so long ago. a/c. summers here will make you turn to religion. constant 100% humidity and 90+ deg. F. so to cut this short: can I? anyone seen it done? or ideally, anyone done it themselves and want to nudge me in the right direction? without it, the car's useful life is reduced to a few weeks a year. at least until it gets pushed behind assorted motorcycles, mustang parts, etc. I know they made them for the tr6, but google gets me nothing on the gt6. I don't mind some fabrication, but it'd be nice not to have to totally reinvent the wheel. thanks in advance. scott Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Spitfire Ignition Coil
Hi everyone, I have an Ignitor system on my 80 Spitfire. At the moment I am not getting any spark. I haven't had a chance to do any trouble shooting, though I have printed off a couple of pages from the Ignitor web site. Here's what I am wondering about - the wiring on my coil has been changed to bypass the resistor wire so the coil gets 12 volts. Is a 3 ohm coil what I need? Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Re: followup on brake fluid
In the early 1900's Castrol was a lubricant made by Wakefield Oil from Castor Oil the name Castrol was a contraction of that. I assume the company changed the name to Castrol because the product was successful. It is no longer made from Castor Oil. When I was using normal brake fluid. I tried to use Castrol LMA (low moisture activity) when I could find it - which was not all of the time. I have now switched to silicone brake fluid in my Spitfire and will use it in my GT6 when I get it done. As others have said, other brake fluid will work. Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire Thanks for the replies, everyone. My email I sent to Triumphs Only(replied within an hour!) said pretty explicitly to use only GT LMA. The majority of the emails I got was to use Castrol's. I was under the impression LMA was unique to Castrol's fluids. Is it classified as DOT 4? Either way, of all places to buy Castrol's fluid, you can get it on Amazon. Guess it's just not for books anymore. So I'll scrape some dough together, buy several bottles and bleed away. Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Spitfire front springs
Hello, A friend of mine purchased springs for his Spitfire1500 that are supposed to be lower springs than stock. They have more loops than the original springs. He wants to make sure they are indeed lower springs before installing them I seem to remember that more loops for lower springs is correct. Something about since they are longer they have more give and will actually ride lower. Am I dreaming this? Anyway, what can we check for to make sure they will lower the car from stock. Thanks, Roger 80 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
dual SU air cleaner
I have an 80 Spitfire with dual SUs installed. I purchased a European style air cleaner for it, just because I kind of like the way it looks. The only air filters I have found that will fit are original style ones from Rimmer Bros.Has anyone found an alternative? Perhaps a size of KN that will fit in the housing. Thanks, Roger Elliott 1980 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
79 Spitfire Air cleaner
Sorry if this hits the list twice, the first one I sent from a different email account and don't think it got through. A friend of mine has a Spitfire with the original air cleaner housing and wants to replace the filter. It has been a long time since I tried to get one of these apart, but as I recall, the plate on the carb side is just pushed into the housing. We tried to separate the 2 pieces, but they don't want to come apart. Is there some trick to getting the 2 pieces apart? Was I just not using enough force? Thanks, Roger Elliott Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
80 Spitfire hardtop
I have two questions about Spitfire hardtops. There is a tie down bar that bolts to the convertible top bracket behind the doors. What is the size of that bolt? I am pretty sure it is 5/16 but I tried a coarse thread and a fine thread and neither seemed to work. Of course, it could be that the threads are just messed up. Also, is there supposed to be a piece of trim that goes along the back, bottom edge? My top has what almost looks like snaps - but they are smaller- on the outside edge, but I can't figure out what would go there unless it is a piece of trim that slides over them. Thanks, Roger Elliott 80 Spitfire Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
