Re: [vintagvw] Bug Exhaust Install

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I also always use the spun metal type donut clamps instead of fiber as fiber 
are prone to crack. The metal ones will move a bit to conform to the heaterbox 
pipe shape
Ray


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 Original message 
From: 'Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
 
Date: 4/19/20  8:10 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Bug Exhaust Install 



So great to see  a vw question. No viruses!


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: "Dave C Bolen"  
Date: 4/19/20  6:09 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Bug Exhaust Install 

Dean,

LOLI have seen two grown men cry over trying to install a stock vw 
muffler...many years ago...

I never touch the heater boxes except with a carefully placed prybar
to force them to match up with the muffler.

I quit using the donut method years ago cause the pipes(after all these 
years) are never the size they used to begenerally waaay too loose and 
leaky.

Do the weld on flanges and you will never be sorry.  You will still need a 
gently used pry bar and punch to hold one set of the holes in the right 
place no matter what.

Cheers, dave

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020, D Johnson wrote:

> I always start with confidence and enthusiasm. I loosely install the heater 
> boxes to allow lots of wiggle room. Then the flat gaskets are slipped over the
> head bolts and the fiber donut with concave metal washers are pused onto the 
> heat exchanger. That's when the trouble begins. I don't think I have ever
> successfully joined the muffler (or header)  to the heat exchanger. Those 
> clamp halves don't want to hug the muffler, the fiber donut, and the washer
> together. Something wants to slip out. Sometimes it works out with no leaks 
> but it is never pretty, and I put on my first muffler in 1988.  Should I be
> modifying the clamps to make them fit better or should I weld on flanges and 
> give up on the old school method? Is there a better version of the old-style
> clamps out there? 
> My 1915cc engine is back in the '71 Super Beetle with Dual IDFs. I need to 
> work out the fuel system (tank, fuel line, fuel pump). Then more things to 
> take
> care of because the car has been sitting for so long, brakes and lights need 
> to be checked etc.
> 
> Hope you all are well, keeping safe and busy.
> Dean Johnson
> WIlliamson, NY (Rural NY amoungst the apple orchards)
> 
> --
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Re: [vintagvw] Bug Exhaust Install

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

So great to see  a vw question. No viruses!


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: "Dave C. Bolen"  
Date: 4/19/20  6:09 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Bug Exhaust Install 

Dean,

LOLI have seen two grown men cry over trying to install a stock vw 
muffler...many years ago...

I never touch the heater boxes except with a carefully placed prybar
to force them to match up with the muffler.

I quit using the donut method years ago cause the pipes(after all these 
years) are never the size they used to begenerally waaay too loose and 
leaky.

Do the weld on flanges and you will never be sorry.  You will still need a 
gently used pry bar and punch to hold one set of the holes in the right 
place no matter what.

Cheers, dave

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020, D Johnson wrote:

> I always start with confidence and enthusiasm. I loosely install the heater 
> boxes to allow lots of wiggle room. Then the flat gaskets are slipped over the
> head bolts and the fiber donut with concave metal washers are pused onto the 
> heat exchanger. That's when the trouble begins. I don't think I have ever
> successfully joined the muffler (or header)  to the heat exchanger. Those 
> clamp halves don't want to hug the muffler, the fiber donut, and the washer
> together. Something wants to slip out. Sometimes it works out with no leaks 
> but it is never pretty, and I put on my first muffler in 1988.  Should I be
> modifying the clamps to make them fit better or should I weld on flanges and 
> give up on the old school method? Is there a better version of the old-style
> clamps out there? 
> My 1915cc engine is back in the '71 Super Beetle with Dual IDFs. I need to 
> work out the fuel system (tank, fuel line, fuel pump). Then more things to 
> take
> care of because the car has been sitting for so long, brakes and lights need 
> to be checked etc.
> 
> Hope you all are well, keeping safe and busy.
> Dean Johnson
> WIlliamson, NY (Rural NY amoungst the apple orchards)
> 
> --
> Visit the VintagVW archives at 
> http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
> ---
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> "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
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> 
>

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RE: [vintagvw] My weekend with Dave and Marion Bolen

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

NQ. You could be a writer. Awesome writeup. You are welcome to bunk here 
anytime you plan to be in PA
Ray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: No Quarter  
Date: 5/19/19  10:17 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [vintagvw] My weekend with Dave and Marion Bolen 

Hello gang...NQ here...things have been pretty quiet here on the list since 
I last posted back in January.  Since that time my wife and I spent a 
wonderful month in Australia that went way too fast.  The trip was 
punctuated with the sad fact that a young man decided to check out of life 
by jumping off the bridge we were walking on.  He was right behind us about 
20 feet and even though we didn't see him jump, the sound and sights 
afterwards will be burned into my mind until my dying day.

On a brighter note, after being on the list here since around 1996 (23 years 
ago), I finally got to meet one of our long-time listees!   Enid and I just 
got back from spending a wonderful weekend with the Bolens in Fayetteville, 
AR.  The reason for the trip was for Dave to share with me his knowledge 
about how to fuel-inject a VW engine and what a wonderful treat it was!  I 
learned so much my head is still swimming, but Dave patiently peeled back 
layers of the fear of the unknown for me and gave me new-found confidence on 
the entire fuel injection process.  It's a bit involved, but so worth the 
effort.

While Dave's wife kindly took my wife under her wing and went and did lady 
things together with her, Dave and I hit the books so-to-speak.  Actually, I 
hit the books more - but Dave was kind enough to have a laptop with larger 
screen plugged in - all propelled with linux - as well as a well thought-out 
syllabus to help teach me how to do this.  I've come away with a 
crystal-clear view of what needs to happen in order to convert to fuel 
injection.

One of my dreams was to build an upright DTM style 2L Type 4 engine, but the 
dual carburetor thing always scared me off.  My experience with duals hasn't 
been good and I absolutely hate dorking with dual carbs.  In my climate, the 
lack of chokes makes starting a VW engine a pure joke and having to 
synchronize carbs every so often is just not worth it to me.  I like the 
center-fed style like what the 1600DP has and now armed with the knowledge 
Dave sent me home with, I think I could do a DTM T4 2L and create a custom 
manifold that would mimic the 1600DP style and then fuel inject it!

As icing on the cake, Dave took me for a ride in his 1968 Beetle with a 
1776cc engine.  The turbo has been removed for various reasons while things 
get resorted out, but I'm telling you guys - I have *NEVER* felt a 1776cc 
engine pull like this.  It was absolutely unreal and now I understand more 
than ever why some dub owners like fuel injection and even turbos.  You know 
when you accelerate and you hit 3rd and 4th gear how your engine starts to 
kind of run out of steam?  That point where the cam has done it's job and 
your pistons are moving so fast that only so much air-fuel mixture can enter 
the cylinder?  With a turbo, this doesn't happen.  It just keeps right on a 
pulling!  I didn't experience that, but I understand the lure so much more 
so now.

Our quick little 3 day vacation ended this evening when we arrived home 
ready to start another work week, but we left with gratitude in our hearts 
and with much thankfulness for the hospitality shown to us on our quick 
stay.  Dave's friend Randy was an absolute pleasure to chat with and we hope 
to make our way back down there again soon where we felt welcomed with open 
arms.

In closing, I share with y'all a photo of the 2 of us...the teacher and the 
student with the project in the background.  If my eyes look a little 
crossed, it's not without good reason because I got schooled hard and 
enjoyed every single stinkin' minute of it.

https://elassleybie.incolor.com/temp/DaveBolenNQ.jpg

Thank You Dave and Marion (and Randy!) for the wonderful and all-too-short 
time spent together.

NQ










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To 

Re: [vintagvw] State of Seabert

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I am not sure but I think you can link a few now?  Anyone else have ideas?  
Thanks 
Ray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Kirin Jacobsen  
Date: 1/24/19  10:06 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] State of Seabert 

Sure got a bunch. Any suggestions on how to link them? They are on the usual 
social media suspects. -Kirin
On Thu, Jan 24, 2019, 5:59 AM 'Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List  
Date: 1/23/19  10:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [vintagvw] State of Seabert 

Hi all,Its been a very long time since I have made a post of this length. 
Today's number of posts has brought back a great bit of nostalgia for me. After 
all it was this list that actually got me my beetle. Anyways I wanted to give 
you a recap of whats gone on it probably about the last 15 years of owning this 
Beetle. I won't ever sell it, its got a life time place in my garage.
The car itself has gone through a few iterations. I did a refresh for my 
highschool grad with a new interior, fresh 1600dp, disc brakes and it was VERY 
slammomatic It got put into storage for a year while I spent a year abroad. I 
came back sorted out the last few niggly things. Was all geared up to spend the 
show season enjoying the car when disaster struck. I got rearended on my way to 
an event that I had planned by another bug. It wiped out the rear apron, 
fender, decklid etc. At that point I wasn't quite sure what to do since the 
paint was pretty faded out most likely from some cheap respray. At that point 
with the encouragement of my friends I blew it all apart for a complete 
rotesserie resto.
It spent 3 years in the body shop. Luckily because it was a California car it 
had virtually no rust. Although the only original bolt on panels that are on 
the car I'm pretty sure are the hood, drivers front fender, and passenger door 
and possibly the passenger rear fender. Body work was slow. And amongst all 
this I moved out of town to go to university and life ultimately got in the 
way. 5 years ago I bought a house with a 23x23 foot heated shop(Long 
potentially cold winters here). The bug came home and I started working on it 
again after 8 months renoeing my 1962 British Columbia box house. 
I made decent headway and then eventually got engaged. And like what had 
happened in prep for the original tight deadline for my beetle, it happend 
again. I was determined to get it finished for my wedding. I managed to finish 
putting together the Resto-cal look car of my dreams. It turned out better than 
I expected, yet I can see all its flaws that probably no one else will ever 
notice. Its super gratifying to see it sitting parked some where and every one 
comments on how shiney it is.
And then after enjoying it for a month or so 6 weeks before my wedding the new 
1914 developed a horrible rattle and lost power. I limped it home, tore it 
apart and found out that some piece of hardware had made it's way down the 
intake and had beat up cylinder head and piston top.
Luckily Volkswagen people are the best. I had friends loan me a 1600dp and my 
car managed to make it to my wedding. Over the fall I have torn the 1914 down 
and am just waiting on receiving the cylinder head back from Brothers Machine 
shop.
So of course I'm going to have a ton of questions. This is my first motor 
build. Albeit all the parts have under 1000 miles on them. Long term thoughts 
with this car are to eventually add air conditioning. I also terribly want a 
Split window van to round out the fleet. But I'm going to have to wait a bit on 
that.
In the mean time I have to finish sorting out my new daily driver(Nissan 
Xterra) and then it's time to figure out how to get this 1914 back together.
Enough ramblings for this evening. Thanks for reading.
-Kirin Seabert 1962 Turkis Restocal



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For more 

RE: [vintagvw] State of Seabert

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Hi Kirin. ,
Any pics of you, your bride, and your beetle at the wedding?  
Thanks
Ray 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Kirin Jacobsen  
Date: 1/23/19  10:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [vintagvw] State of Seabert 

Hi all,Its been a very long time since I have made a post of this length. 
Today's number of posts has brought back a great bit of nostalgia for me. After 
all it was this list that actually got me my beetle. Anyways I wanted to give 
you a recap of whats gone on it probably about the last 15 years of owning this 
Beetle. I won't ever sell it, its got a life time place in my garage.
The car itself has gone through a few iterations. I did a refresh for my 
highschool grad with a new interior, fresh 1600dp, disc brakes and it was VERY 
slammomatic It got put into storage for a year while I spent a year abroad. I 
came back sorted out the last few niggly things. Was all geared up to spend the 
show season enjoying the car when disaster struck. I got rearended on my way to 
an event that I had planned by another bug. It wiped out the rear apron, 
fender, decklid etc. At that point I wasn't quite sure what to do since the 
paint was pretty faded out most likely from some cheap respray. At that point 
with the encouragement of my friends I blew it all apart for a complete 
rotesserie resto.
It spent 3 years in the body shop. Luckily because it was a California car it 
had virtually no rust. Although the only original bolt on panels that are on 
the car I'm pretty sure are the hood, drivers front fender, and passenger door 
and possibly the passenger rear fender. Body work was slow. And amongst all 
this I moved out of town to go to university and life ultimately got in the 
way. 5 years ago I bought a house with a 23x23 foot heated shop(Long 
potentially cold winters here). The bug came home and I started working on it 
again after 8 months renoeing my 1962 British Columbia box house. 
I made decent headway and then eventually got engaged. And like what had 
happened in prep for the original tight deadline for my beetle, it happend 
again. I was determined to get it finished for my wedding. I managed to finish 
putting together the Resto-cal look car of my dreams. It turned out better than 
I expected, yet I can see all its flaws that probably no one else will ever 
notice. Its super gratifying to see it sitting parked some where and every one 
comments on how shiney it is.
And then after enjoying it for a month or so 6 weeks before my wedding the new 
1914 developed a horrible rattle and lost power. I limped it home, tore it 
apart and found out that some piece of hardware had made it's way down the 
intake and had beat up cylinder head and piston top.
Luckily Volkswagen people are the best. I had friends loan me a 1600dp and my 
car managed to make it to my wedding. Over the fall I have torn the 1914 down 
and am just waiting on receiving the cylinder head back from Brothers Machine 
shop.
So of course I'm going to have a ton of questions. This is my first motor 
build. Albeit all the parts have under 1000 miles on them. Long term thoughts 
with this car are to eventually add air conditioning. I also terribly want a 
Split window van to round out the fleet. But I'm going to have to wait a bit on 
that.
In the mean time I have to finish sorting out my new daily driver(Nissan 
Xterra) and then it's time to figure out how to get this 1914 back together.
Enough ramblings for this evening. Thanks for reading.
-Kirin Seabert 1962 Turkis Restocal



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[vintagvw] Beetle Dash Reassembly

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Thanks NQ


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: No Quarter  
Date: 1/23/19  1:56 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working? 

That's a toughy Ray and I'm sorry I can't help you with that.  I would 
encourage you to do some deep scans on youtube and see if you can find 
anything on there.  Also, in depth thread searches on thesamba could also 
help.  They haven't helped me much with my quest for the stroker VW engine 
with the 34-pict-3 carburetor on it, but others have been sending me links 
and what info they can scare up so that will be a big help whether I find 
the website or not.

NQ
- Original Message - 
From: "'Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2019 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?




Hi All,
I have a 69 vert in pieces for so long I forget the order that it came 
apart. Can anyone tell me order of reassembling the dash? Assume dash pad, 
gauges and switches, glove box, etc
Thanks
Ray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: No Quarter 
Date: 1/21/19  9:23 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

No but I still have that bug. I got married and then had a house built in
the country. Li'l Red is sitting in my parent's back yard so it's my goal
to get him fired up and start driving him again this year. I never get rid
of anything so I still have all my dubs and then some. LOL!

I'm glad this list is still here - quite a few others I was on are no longer
so maybe we can rekindle this list for a bit more...

NQ
- Original Message - 
From: "Brian" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?


>I had forgotten all about this list. Subscribed in the 90's. NQ - is Lil
>Red still on the road?
>
>
> Brian B.
>
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Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Hi All,
I have a 69 vert in pieces for so long I forget the order that it came apart. 
Can anyone tell me order of reassembling the dash?  Assume dash pad, gauges and 
switches,  glove box, etc
Thanks 
Ray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: No Quarter  
Date: 1/21/19  9:23 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working? 

No but I still have that bug.  I got married and then had a house built in 
the country.  Li'l Red is sitting in my parent's back yard so it's my goal 
to get him fired up and start driving him again this year.  I never get rid 
of anything so I still have all my dubs and then some.  LOL!

I'm glad this list is still here - quite a few others I was on are no longer 
so maybe we can rekindle this list for a bit more...

NQ
- Original Message - 
From: "Brian" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?


>I had forgotten all about this list. Subscribed in the 90's.  NQ - is Lil 
>Red still on the road?
>
>
> Brian B.
>
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Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I still have the pic of NQS Mexibeetle body!  Very sad we lost Bill May. 
Amazing wealth of knowledge and kind hearted
Ray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: No Quarter  
Date: 1/21/19  9:50 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working? 

Yeah I've tried the facebook groups, but not a fan of them at all.  The 
listserv takes a bit more work to utilitze so I'm kind of gravitating back 
to it.  We used to have a lot of really well-versed people on here with VWs. 
I guess in the pre-social media world, this *WAS* our social media.  By the 
way Bert - I think you were the last one to post here back in January of 
2017 - 2 years ago.  I can't recall seeing a post on here since then.

NQ 

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Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Awesome  Seems like yesterday you were starting out.



-Original Message-
From: Kirin Jacobsen <kirinjacob...@gmail.com>
To: vintagvw <vintagvw@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 25, 2016 4:12 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting



I still have it. Its near the end of a 7 year restoration/ customization. 
Hoping to fire up its new 1914 over the winter and have it out for next season. 
I have a lot of the work posted on facebook or over on kustomcoachwerk.
-Kirin



On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 1:09 PM, rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List <vintagvw@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Those guys are/were legends!!  Kirin- whatever happened to sea foam??


Ray



-Original Message-
From: Kirin Jacobsen <kirinjacob...@gmail.com>
To: vintagvw <vintagvw@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 25, 2016 3:47 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting



Zundfolge and May I still see are active on thesamba.com
-Kirin



On Sun, Oct 23, 2016 at 4:21 PM, 'Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled 
Volkswagen Discussion List <vintagvw@googlegroups.com> wrote:


I have been on this list since 1998 I think, but never got to know Gibert. It 
was really great back then with Bill May, zundfolge,  marc vellat, NQ and 
others sending what seemed to be dozens of emails each day!! 


Anyone keep up with Marc?  Very knowledgeable guy


Ray







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Heikki Syrjamaki <heikkisyrjam...@gmail.com> 
Date: 10/23/16  11:56 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
<vintagvw@googlegroups.com> 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting 


Great to hear greetings from Gilbert. I still have that oval @ sticker some 
where... 

Heikki

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Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Those guys are/were legends!!  Kirin- whatever happened to sea foam??


Ray



-Original Message-
From: Kirin Jacobsen <kirinjacob...@gmail.com>
To: vintagvw <vintagvw@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 25, 2016 3:47 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting



Zundfolge and May I still see are active on thesamba.com
-Kirin



On Sun, Oct 23, 2016 at 4:21 PM, 'Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled 
Volkswagen Discussion List <vintagvw@googlegroups.com> wrote:


I have been on this list since 1998 I think, but never got to know Gibert. It 
was really great back then with Bill May, zundfolge,  marc vellat, NQ and 
others sending what seemed to be dozens of emails each day!! 


Anyone keep up with Marc?  Very knowledgeable guy


Ray







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Heikki Syrjamaki <heikkisyrjam...@gmail.com> 
Date: 10/23/16  11:56 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
<vintagvw@googlegroups.com> 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting 


Great to hear greetings from Gilbert. I still have that oval @ sticker some 
where... 

Heikki

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Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I have been on this list since 1998 I think, but never got to know Gibert. It 
was really great back then with Bill May, zundfolge,  marc vellat, NQ and 
others sending what seemed to be dozens of emails each day!! 
Anyone keep up with Marc?  Very knowledgeable guy
Ray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Heikki Syrjamaki  
Date: 10/23/16  11:56 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Old friend sends greeting 

Great to hear greetings from Gilbert. I still have that oval @ sticker some 
where... 

Heikki

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RE: [vintagvw] Upholstery clips

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Hi. You are aware these still exist then correct?  
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=n143893



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Bert Knupp  
Date: 10/12/16  8:45 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Vintage VW Group  
Subject: [vintagvw] Upholstery clips 

Volks, We all know the little metal compression clips that hold our beetles’ 
door panels to the metal doors. They work okay, though they can break from 
metal fatigue after a while. Or rust. Or get lost. Has anybody discovered any 
substitute clip that performs the same service, using the 10 mm holes in the 
masonite panels and the 8 mm holes in the door metal (I’m going from memory 
here, y’all)?  There are zillions of little plastic upholstery clips at every 
FLAPS, and maybe just one fits old VWs. Any experiences to report? Bert Knupp 
in Music City USA

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Re: [vintagvw] 1966 Volkswagen Beetle

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Do you plan to do a total repaint?  I believe you said inside and out?  If so 
you will likely want to strip everything out including the wiring and have it 
painted first. The problem is that's the most expensive part of the resto.  
Then build it back together a system at a time. This will allow for install of 
new rubber seals without paint overspray


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: "G. Tipton" <vwbee...@swbell.net> 
Date: 10/5/16  12:07 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1966 Volkswagen Beetle 

Before I parked the car the starter had been dragging (ie. not starting as fast 
as it once did, and occasional strange noises). The last time I tried to start 
the car a plume of smoke came from that area so I figured I would have it 
rebuilt or purchase a rebuilt. The wiring is original and the prior owner did 
not take care of it too well and hacked it in a few places. I figured if I am 
going to spend the money and time to restore the car it would be in my best 
interest to also replace the wiring thus eliminating some of the quirky 
electrical issues etc... I will soon have the room to once again work on my 
Beetle inside a garage (hopefully by Thanksgiving). Thank you for the input. I 
will work on the mechanical first.

 

On Tuesday, October 4, 2016 7:16 PM, 'Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled 
Volkswagen Discussion List <vintagvw@googlegroups.com> wrote:
  

 

Hi Greg. I have done a couple body off restos now.  My strategy is to work on a 
system at a time. Start with brakes and complete the hydraulic and mechanical 
portions. Then suspension system then engine and trans etc., then electrical, 
Leave paint etc for last. How do you know you need wiring, generator etc?
Ray 


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: "G. Tipton" <vwbee...@swbell.net> 
Date: 10/4/16  1:44 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
<vintagvw@googlegroups.com> 
Subject: [vintagvw] 1966 Volkswagen Beetle 

Hello,
  I have a 1966 Beetle that has sat since 2011 outside for two years and inside 
the rest of the time. I was dealing with a divorce, death of my father etc... 
and I let her just sit. I am now ready to get back into restoring the car. 
Before the car sat the engine and the transmission had been rebuilt. She needs 
new paint inside and out. The prior owner cut the dash for a modern stereo so I 
have a patch panel from Wolfsburg West. The rear portion of the pans have 
fiberglass mat and POR15 patching the holes. I have one small dent in right 
rear fender and a rust bubble below the rear window. The car has an inexpensive 
paint job that has been on the car since I owned it. The paint needs to be 
removed prior to repainting. Before she was parked I was working on the 
mechanical parts of the car in hopes that one day I would have the funds for 
the cosmetic portion of the restoration.
 Okay, with all that said. I am feeling a little overwhelmed and I don't know 
where to begin again in her restoration. The brakes are locked up, the engine 
turns over, I have some issues with the starter. I know I need to replace the 
starter with a rebuilt 6 volt starter, I also want to purchase a rebuilt 6 volt 
generator/regulator. I want to replace the entire wiring harness. I have a 6 
volt AM Radio that needs to be gone through (currently in storage, which I need 
to locate). I figured all new rubber from Wolfsburg West, etc... etc... etc...
Has anyone on here rebuilt a car from the ground up? If so, how do you stay 
organised and on task? 
Thank you for your time,Greg
 
      
     



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Re: [vintagvw] Final Thanks

['Rayvwbug' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Think I have been on the list since 98... When NQ brought home a Mexican bug 
body on the roof of an suv...  Also Kirin working on sea foam and Asad and 
Suleman inspiring me with what they could do with such limited resources in 
Pakistan.  Miss Bill May the walking VW encyclopedia and perhaps the kindest 
person I ever met through his care packages and Jim trying to keep people to 
the facts
Ray

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: No Quarter  
Date: 9/26/16  8:04 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Final Thanks 

You're sure welcome!  I'm still here lurking.  Life has taken me on many 
twists and turns, but man you should see my field of VWs I have on my 
acreage north of town.  I'm up to about 13 or 14.  LOL!  I married an 
Aussie lady and we're living in our now one-year-old house.  Mr. VW is 
doing VW restorations out in Colorado not too far from where RMMW was I 
believe.  I miss the old days of the list.  It was all we had in those 
pre-facebook days.  Now facebook has kind of taken over and other 
elements of social media which has just about killed off the email 
lists.  The streamlined effect of the email list is one that can never 
compare.  I've often wondered if a VintagVW forum was created similar to 
thesamba.com if it would bring back some of the old timers, but with 
thesamba being a huge repository of information, it might be redundant.

I'm still thankful that John keeps the list going.  I'm kind of bummed 
that the archives of the older stuff are gone.  What exists are snippets 
of the various emails that people saved.  I find some of my articles 
scattered about online from time to time.  I remember Scott Yuppa who 
perished in a plane wreck with his father after being on the list for a 
short time.

At any rate, when the VintagVW list was going at its strongest, it 
filled a void that we had never had before and that was support from a 
VW community that was so hard to find in our local worlds.  All of a 
sudden we didn't feel so alone and had tons of help - the likes of which 
we never had before.  The gurus finally had a forum to be appreciated 
and admired in while they shared their wisdom.  I think the absolute 
best part of the whole thing was that internet was still in it's infancy 
in the private sector and so to figure out how to get online and more or 
less configure a computer to get online gave you some street cred so to 
speak, and if you were online, you were in-the-know and in good company. 
  Now anyone and everyone can get online and it isn't as special as it 
once was.  I remember people thinking I was an outright genious with VWs 
and all I ever really did was read and apply what others wrote and then 
to explain it in simple terms that everyone could understand.  Now 
everyone's an expert with the almighty shrine of google at their 
service.

This year we are having our 17th annual campout at Indian Cave State 
Park in Nebraska.  I never dreamed it would last this long.  Sadly none 
of my VWs run at the moment, but I am feverishly building a small 
teardrop camper for my wife and I to camp in so we don't have to run to 
a motel as we've done the past  couple of years.

Please don't spill the beans Glen as I know you're on this list.  :)

Nice to hear from you again and sorry you sold the bug, but if it can 
get in the hands of someone who appreciates, that's everything.


NQ

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Re: [vintagvw] Rear engine compartment seal

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

You have the right seal.  From your picture I suspect the rear apron was 
replaced at some time.  All channels should line up and the side channel looks 
correct as the channel aligns close to the top of the metal it is spot welded 
to.  That is correct and tells me your rear most channel is somehow misplaced.


This thread shows replacement of a seal and you can see all 3 channels align.  


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6755634




Ray



-Original Message-
From: Bert Knupp 
To: vintagvw 
Sent: Tue, Jan 12, 2016 5:55 pm
Subject: [vintagvw] Rear engine compartment seal



Volks,
 
Just got my 1972 SuperBeetle back from the paint shop right after Christmas. 
The engine (with all tin) is at the mechanic’s being rebuilt (I hope), so 
thought I’d use its absence renew the liners and the rubber seals for the 
engine compartment.  Liners will take some cutting and punching, but they’re 
coming along okay.  Got some good-quality seals from WCM. Old seals had 
crumbled and fallen apart; removed them completely and cleaned channels pretty 
well.
 
So far I’ve gotten the forward seal into place (the one behind the doghouse 
above the transmission). I was able to slide one end in, and just used violence 
to press in the remainder.  But now I’m encountering a problem with the rear 
rubber seal – the one that goes across the back (i.e., nearest the bumper) and 
along both sides. 
 
The channels are not in alignment. At the break, the left and right side 
channels are about 25mm (1”) higher than (=above) the transverse channel! There 
is no visible sign there’s been any repair work or welding back there (there 
could have been – I’m about a fourth owner): they just are nowhere near being 
in alignment.  And since the break between channel segments is only about a 
half inch or so (same on both L and R sides), there’s really no way that the 
rubber can “step up” to run along the sides.
 
QUESTIONS:  Is this the normal configuration? If so, how does one run the rear 
seal to be gap-free around the body and the engine tin? Do I maybe have the 
wrong seal (it’s one long piece and straight, with a goofy Z cross-section)?
 
I’ll try to attach a picture.  Any advice, y’all?
 
Bert Knupp



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Re: [vintagvw] Rear engine compartment seal

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Advice- if I recall correctly the channel on the rear apron is spot welded to 
an inner piece of metal in the apron( ie the apron is made of 2 or more 
separate pieces of sheet metal.  I think if you carefully drilled out the spot 
welds on the channel, you could move it where it needs to go and plug weld it 
back into place without hurting the paint on the outside sheet metal.  Just 
found a good image I am attaching- you can see that the channel could be 
replaced without hurting the paint on the exterior of the car.


Ray



-Original Message-
From: rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List 
<vintagvw@googlegroups.com>
To: vintagvw <vintagvw@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Jan 12, 2016 11:13 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Rear engine compartment seal


You have the right seal.  From your picture I suspect the rear apron was 
replaced at some time.  All channels should line up and the side channel looks 
correct as the channel aligns close to the top of the metal it is spot welded 
to.  That is correct and tells me your rear most channel is somehow misplaced.


This thread shows replacement of a seal and you can see all 3 channels align.  


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6755634




Ray



-Original Message-
From: Bert Knupp <bert.kn...@comcast.net>
To: vintagvw <vintagvw@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Jan 12, 2016 5:55 pm
Subject: [vintagvw] Rear engine compartment seal



Volks,
 
Just got my 1972 SuperBeetle back from the paint shop right after Christmas. 
The engine (with all tin) is at the mechanic’s being rebuilt (I hope), so 
thought I’d use its absence renew the liners and the rubber seals for the 
engine compartment.  Liners will take some cutting and punching, but they’re 
coming along okay.  Got some good-quality seals from WCM. Old seals had 
crumbled and fallen apart; removed them completely and cleaned channels pretty 
well.
 
So far I’ve gotten the forward seal into place (the one behind the doghouse 
above the transmission). I was able to slide one end in, and just used violence 
to press in the remainder.  But now I’m encountering a problem with the rear 
rubber seal – the one that goes across the back (i.e., nearest the bumper) and 
along both sides. 
 
The channels are not in alignment. At the break, the left and right side 
channels are about 25mm (1”) higher than (=above) the transverse channel! There 
is no visible sign there’s been any repair work or welding back there (there 
could have been – I’m about a fourth owner): they just are nowhere near being 
in alignment.  And since the break between channel segments is only about a 
half inch or so (same on both L and R sides), there’s really no way that the 
rubber can “step up” to run along the sides.
 
QUESTIONS:  Is this the normal configuration? If so, how does one run the rear 
seal to be gap-free around the body and the engine tin? Do I maybe have the 
wrong seal (it’s one long piece and straight, with a goofy Z cross-section)?
 
I’ll try to attach a picture.  Any advice, y’all?
 
Bert Knupp



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Re: [vintagvw] Hood VW emblems

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Isn't this what you are referring to?


http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113853615


Ray



-Original Message-
From: Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2015 7:07 pm
Subject: RE: [vintagvw] Hood VW emblems


Nope.  Hood emblem takes three tiny polyethylene grommets of the same shape, but
clear flexy plastic, snap-fit into a 5.5 mm hole.  Don't believe they exist
anywhere else on the car.  Earlier cars just had rubber washers and pushnuts,
but they leaked and rusted (my '61 f'rinstance).

-Original
Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kyle
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 1:55 PM
To:
vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: [vintagvw] Hood VW emblems

I always
thought that the same grommets used for the door panels were used for the trim. 
Shows what I know. 

Kyle

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Re: [vintagvw] Hood VW emblems

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I am super impressed, but did you see these?


http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113853615





-Original Message-
From: Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, Jul 6, 2015 5:37 pm
Subject: RE: [vintagvw] Hood VW emblems


  
Volks,
  
I know that everyone is wondering how I solved my VW hood emblem problem.  You 
may recall that the three pins on my VW emblem did not match up with the three 
holes in my 1970-something aftermarket (but Original VW Parts) hood with the 
flat emblem area.  My former hood – a Brazilian aftermarket job – had three 
holes each containing a polyethylene tube grommet, allowing the pins of the 
emblem to push neatly down into them and stay put.
  
  
The PE tube grommets seem to be unobtainium.  I like that attachment system 
since it allows removal of the emblem with no damage to the pins, something the 
usual push clips don't guarantee.  SO I made a substitute. For you authenticity 
buffs, here's my solution. (Somebody else said, Just glue it. Sorry, not my 
style.)
  
Using the long 5/32 polyethylene tube from a used Windex bottle, I heated the 
end of it almost to melting, then pushed it firmly in turn onto each of the 
emblem's 3 pins.  It slid on, then mushroomed out a bit at the leading tip as 
it bottomed out.  I cut off each piece kust short of the pin length.
  
Into a scrap of inner-tube rubber, I punched three 5/32 holes, then cut out 
little pieces around the holes. These three slid neatly onto the Windex tubing 
covered pins.
  
But I did have to drill. Using a Dremel tool, I gently expanded and spaced each 
of the three holes in the hood to about 5/32 Ø or a smidge larger, using my 
emblem and its new plastic-covered pins as a guide. Cleaned them, then covered 
all exposed metal with a touch-up paint brush (using close-matching Rust-Oleum) 
and let them dry for a half day or so.  This afternoon I carefully set my 
emblem onto the holes, made sure it was well aligned, and pressed the emblem 
firmly down into the new holes. Ta-daa!  It was a firm, but clean fit!  The 
emblem is in the right place, sits down onto the hood (with a paper thickness 
between it and the paint, allowing drainage), and looks like a factory job.  
I'll seal the underside with some brush-daubed Rust-Oleum.
  
I regret that I can't find a hood with the raised pedestal for the round VW 
emblem. The VW dealers only sold flat hoods as replacement parts, and my 1970 
really, really should have had a raised one. The incorrectness aside, though, 
this DIY grommeting system appears to have worked well.  I won't be getting 
rain water into my trunk, I shouldn't have any rust, and the emblem looks like 
factory-correct.
  
Thanks to all you guys -- Yves and Lloyd in particular but also Mike and Erin 
(N.Q.) -- for tips and ideas.
  
What a list!
  
Bert Knupp in Music City
  
  
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Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating engine shroud

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I slightly disagree,  While I agree the tin is in fact designed to direct air 
flow, it is painted matte lack to give off heat.



-Original Message-
From: Dan Moy sole...@gmail.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sat, Apr 18, 2015 6:30 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating engine shroud


 
The engine tin is not meant to contain or dissipate heat, it is there to direct 
air flow over the heads and cylinders.  ceramic coating seems like an expensive 
proposition, I powder coated mine ~5 years ago it still looks great.  
   
  
  
   
  
 
 
  
  
On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 9:26 PM, 'fan2012' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion Listvintagvw@googlegroups.com wrote:   
   
Dean,  
  
   
 Do you live anywhere near Long Island?  
   
   
   
   
Rudy   LI NY   

 
  
  
  
   
   

The shinier the surface the more poorly it conducts heat. Dark matte finish is 
best. Better heat transfer. I don't have any idea how much difference it really 
makes though. I live in NY and heat is not a big problem if everything is 
hooked up correctly.
 Sorry for such a long non-answer, I'm feeling verbose.
 Dean
 '71 Super Beetle   

 On Apr 18, 2015 2:10 PM, Kyle  01ksda...@gmail.com wrote:  
   
 
 I was wondering more about the thermal properties versus the durability.   
   
  
 I know chrome,  while it looks cool, actually adds more heat to the equation.  

  
 The reason why I'm asking is the recent engine fire I guess is an opportunity 
for me to do something with the fan shroud.  
  
 I know of a local powder coater in town.  
  
 I don't know of any local chrome shop or porcelain coating shop.  
  
 But, if anybody has done this,  I thought they might have pointers on it.  

  
 Kyle  
  
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Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating engine shroud

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I never said tins do not direct air flow- I agree.  Please do what is right for 
you.  However,


The results of the emission of radiation experiments show: 


Black surfaces are the best emitters of heat radiation.

Black surfaces are the best absorbers of heat radiation.  


A thin coat of black paint will mot insulate more than it emits.  


This is not my opinion, it is science.  Much smarter people than I have proven 
this.




Ray







From: Daniel Moy sole...@gmail.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sat, Apr 18, 2015 7:50 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating engine shroud


 
According to your logic the the heat would be dissipated into the engine 
compartment, and be recirculated on to the heads and the cylinders, I think I 
disagree.  The tins are meant to direct air flow. 
 
  
 
 
Why satin black, It was probably the cheapest option to keep the tins from 
rusting? 
 
  
 
 
From what I remember in general paint acts as an insulator.  If you want to 
create a surface that cools better then you need to create more surface area 
for the air to flow over. This is why the cylinders are not painted, rust 
creates more surface area. 
 
  
   
  
  
   
  
  
   
  
 
 
  
On Apr 18, 2015, at 7:15 PM, rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List   vintagvw@googlegroups.com wrote:  
  
 
 
  
   I slightly disagree,  While I agree the tin is in fact designed to direct 
air flow, it is painted matte lack to give off heat.
 
 
 
-Original Message- 
 From: Dan Moy  sole...@gmail.com 
 To: vintagvw  vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Sat, Apr 18, 2015 6:30 pm 
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating engine shroud 
  
  
   
 The engine tin is not meant to contain or dissipate heat, it is there to 
direct air flow over the heads and cylinders.  ceramic coating seems like an 
expensive proposition, I powder coated mine ~5 years ago it still looks great.  
  
 


 

   
   


 On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 9:26 PM, 'fan2012' via VintagVW - Air Cooled 
Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@googlegroups.com wrote: 
 
  Dean,   


  Do you live anywhere near Long Island?

 


 Rudy   LI NY 
  
   
   
   



 
 The shinier the surface the more poorly it conducts heat. Dark matte finish is 
best. Better heat transfer. I don't have any idea how much difference it really 
makes though. I live in NY and heat is not a big problem if everything is 
hooked up correctly.  
 Sorry for such a long non-answer, I'm feeling verbose.  
 Dean  
 '71 Super Beetle 
 
 On Apr 18, 2015 2:10 PM, Kyle   01ksda...@gmail.com wrote: 
 
  
 I was wondering more about the thermal properties versus the durability.   

   
 I know chrome,  while it looks cool, actually adds more heat to the equation.  
 
   
 The reason why I'm asking is the recent engine fire I guess is an opportunity 
for me to do something with the fan shroud.   
   
 I know of a local powder coater in town.   
   
 I don't know of any local chrome shop or porcelain coating shop.   

   
 But, if anybody has done this,  I thought they might have pointers on it.  
 
   
 Kyle   
   
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 For more options, visit   https://groups.google.com/d/optout.  
 
  
 
 
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Re: [vintagvw] Battery Drain on 72 Bug

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I would do the ammeter procedure.  If you find a high draw try removing fuses 
one at a time to help determine where.  Do you have a modern radio installed?  
they can draw down a battery especially in cold weather.

Ray


-Original Message-
From: vw1959 vw1...@verizon.net
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, Mar 25, 2015 11:04 am
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Battery Drain on 72 Bug


 
  
Sometimes battery fluid leaks upward onto top surface of battery due to 
vibration/road bumps, and spreads between and connecting both terminals, 
causing a short.  This happened to me several years ago.  I fixed by cleaning 
and putting powdered baking soda (?) on the battery top to soak up future 
leaks.  Might've used a different powder...
  
  
   
  
   
  
  On 03/25/15, Mike Morehousehokiemik...@gmail.com wrote:  
   
  
   
Good morning.  I have stock 72 bug with about 110,000 miles on it. Depending on 
weather I don't drive it a lot - maybe once-twice a week. Battery is not that 
old. Going through records to see when I bought it.
 


Problem is battery drains down maybe within a week of driving it last so that 
it won't start. Checked to make sure that I haven't left any lights on like 
interior light and such.

 


Next thought was to disconnect battery ground from chassis under rear seat and 
put an ammeter in series and see if I have any current flowing to anything even 
with ignition switch off. Would that be best diagnostic to run?

 


Next check would be to remove battery and have it load tested at parts store.   
 

 


Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

 


Thanks,

Mike in alabama
   
   
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Re: [vintagvw] Herbie

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I am with you NQ- that was a bizarre progression of posts.  I would be going 
back to the shop and asking to be made whole for your loss.  If they don't back 
their work up, I would consider an attorney or small claims court at the very 
least.


Ray



-Original Message-
From: Kyle Davis 01ksda...@gmail.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, Mar 12, 2015 11:39 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Herbie


 
  
Unfortunately,   
  
   
  
 We are sorely lacking on professionals in my area.  It is not unheard of 
for shops in these parts to charge $65 an hour and not stand behind their work. 
   
  
   
  
 It is a problem, to be sure.  It would be best rectified if I had my own 
garage and time.  These are two luxuries I just don't have.  
  
   
  
 Kyle  
 
 
  
  
On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 10:42 PM, No Quartererin.lass...@gmail.com wrote: 
  
   
This has got to be one of the most bizarre progression of posts I've ever read 
on the vintagvw listserv.  I'm sorry that we couldn't help you in time to 
prevent a fire, however for future reference if you are driving any vehicle 
that exhibits symptoms of accelerating on its own, the best course of action 
was, has, and always will be to shut the darn thing off and don't drive it 
until you or a prefessional can fix the problem.
 
 I would say that the shop that did the work is liable because obviously 
something wasn't reassembled correctly and I'm sincerely sorry for your loss.   
 
 
 NQ 

 
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Re: [vintagvw] Stock vs bolt on valve covers

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

I think the intent of this adapter was to force all oil through the cooler.  I 
also think for an engine to be full flow, you would need a pump cover with the 
outlet and plug the pump as well.  I think it is a band aid at best,  This 
thread kind of discusses it.  I have one and never installed it- I did the 
guaranteed full flow method as described.


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=15t=132406


Ray



-Original Message-
From: No Quarter sil...@beatricene.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, Feb 2, 2015 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Stock vs bolt on valve covers



Thank You Ray.  I don't have anywhere near the time I used to have, but it just 
so happens that I was off from work today and decided to drop a few cents' 
worth of information.  Bolt-on covers suck and I couldn't resist jumping-in to 
save Kyle from the horrors of bolt-on valve covers.
 
By the way, have you or anyone else on the list seen these full-flow adapters 
that are no-machining required?  
 
https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/9/2015/02/air-cooled-vw-engine-oil-system-14.jpg
 
I'm wanting to know if they work well and if Berg's have condemned them yet?
 
NQ

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Re: [vintagvw] Stock vs bolt on valve covers

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

NQ  You have a very eloquent way of stating things!


Ray

and the general concensus on bolt-on covers has been a resounding NO.




-Original Message-
From: No Quarter erin.lass...@gmail.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, Feb 2, 2015 2:32 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Stock vs bolt on valve covers



Kyle - this is one thing that we've discussed over the past 20 years on the 
list (and not recently mind you as the list is really, really slow compared to 
what it once was, but our quality has still remained thank goodness...) and the 
general concensus on bolt-on covers has been a resounding NO.  If you get the 
good stock cork OEM gaskets and use the clip-on bail springs, you will have far 
less leaking - even to the point of NO leaks if you have no scratch marks on 
the faces for which the oil can trickle through.  The air-cooled VW engine 
expands and contracts a substantial amount (remember why you need .006 valve 
clearance!) and so the spring bail does an excellent job keeping the proper 
tension on the valve cover throught the entire operating temperature range.  I 
love getting my valve covers powder-coated black.  The bail slides on them 
nicely and the powdercoat seals up any small scratches.  You'll find the OEM 
gaskets (cork) do a great job of sticking themselves on, however if you need 
just a little sealant to help hold the cork gasket in place, a little 
Gaskasinch on the valve cover will help to ensure the gasket comes off with the 
cover once removed, and keeps the gasket from collapsing into the rocker area.
 
It's a great question that you asked and I'm glad you brought it up.  Now you 
know why you see plenty of bolt-on covers for sale at the swaps.  It's because 
they either don't work as well or flat-out not at all.  If you need to vent 
your valve covers, you can get the spiggots that fasten on with a threaded nut 
and gasket, but it's a good idea to just weld or braze them on to the stock 
valve covers.  They won't leak around the vents this way and functionally are 
better than anything you can buy in my opinion.
 
NQ
 

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Re: [vintagvw] Using Christmas lights on 12 volt

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Very cool  Could be that is by design though as safety might dictate not to 
have the Christmas lights distract other drivers when the turn signals are 
being use, such that they would blend in.


Ray.



-Original Message-
From: No Quarter erin.lass...@gmail.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Mon, Jan 5, 2015 11:06 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Using Christmas lights on 12 volt


As a little side note on the LEDs and inverters, a local guy who has moved 
here along with his S.O. from Corpus Christi, TX has a 70 beetle.  He runs 
an inverter to power Christmas lights inside of his beetle, but when he 
signals a turn, the inverter cuts out and turns off the Christmas lights. 
As soon as he is done signaling, it kicks back on.  I'm guessing that maybe 
the generator can't keep up with the current draw.

NQ 

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Re: [vintagvw] Beetle questions

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Hi NQ!!


Great to hear from you and hear the progress you have made!  Love the big 
place/lots of VWs.  I also find I steer towards stock more and more, as it just 
makes more sense.  I know there are a number of places that sell blank drums 
and/or sell drums with certain other patterns already drilled into them- eg 
four lug drums with stock wide 5 lug pattern drilled into them.  I do not know 
about the offset needed but may be doing some research on that as well.


I also bcc'd a great friend/former VintagVW source to see if we can lure him 
into some answers here.


Ray



-Original Message-
From: No Quarter sil...@beatricene.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thu, Jan 1, 2015 11:48 pm
Subject: [vintagvw] Beetle questions


Hey gang - NQ here.  My wife and I have been really busy over the past few 
years.  When she moved here 4 1/2 years ago from Australia, we had 
immigration to take care of, she went back to school to get her nursing 
license, and we needed a place to live.  She's now a citizen as of December 
12th, she's working as a nurse, and we spent our holidays painting the 
inside of our new house in the country where I can collect many VW.  Right 
now we are up to around 17 or 18 assorted VWs for projects and parts!  LOL!

An upcoming project for us will be a restoration of a 1963 Beetle for her to 
drive.  It's her dream car and so I've been thinking about how to approach 
the restoration.  I really don't like how swing-axle transmissions tend to 
leak and how you have to gut the entire rear-end for every single little bit 
of maintenanace and repair.  The ease of the IRS set-up has spoiled me and 
so I'd like to convert the beetle to IRS without too much sacrilege.

I've decided that I want to keep the stock pan and add upgrades to it that 
would make it fairly easy to resort back to factory if anyone ever wanted 
to.  I want to upgrade the front axle to the later brake system and have the 
brackets welded on the rear to convert to IRS.  I have all the IRS parts I 
need from parts dubs I've collected.  I had toyed with the idea of mating 
the 1963 to a later IRS pan, but I decided against it, because it just makes 
it too much a bastard beetle.  At least when you're in the bug, it will all 
appear vintage and correct.  I didn't want to cut and reweld the 2 body 
mounts under the rear fenders although I will have to cut, clearance, and 
weld up the frame horns for CV clearance.

Before I do any of this, there remains one big question and that is can you 
get blank drums of IRS beetles and have them drilled for wide-5 rims?  If 
so, does anyone know if there is any appreciable offset that needs to be 
countered by having the center of the wide-5 rims relocated closer to the 
outside edge of the rim?  I'd want to do this before getting them 
powder-coated.

As I'm getting older, I'm appreciating stock more and more.  It comes with 
age because you sometimes just get tired of dorking with the same old stuff 
over and over and by keeping it stock, you stand a good chance of it working 
for a good long time.  I had entertained the idea of rebuilding a 40hp 
engine, but there are so many advantages to a good ol' stock balanced and 
blue-printed 1600, that I'd like to make the upgrade for my wife.  That 
means an IRS transaxle would be needed to take advantage of the extra 
horsepower (I'm sure a swing-axle trans could be upgraded to the steeper 
ring and pinion with my personal favourite being the 4.12 set, but I don't 
want swing-axle on this car.)  An area that concerns me is the heater box to 
firewall clearance as I remember someone saying it could be quite a trick to 
get it to fit.  If I'm going to do body work or have it done, it is possible 
that this part of the firewall could be clearanced?  Does anyone have any 
experience with getting a 1600 to fit in a 1963 beetle?

Thanks for entertaining my questions.  I'm just trying to get the game plan 
put together for what we are going to do with her car.  I think a modest set 
of upgrades for better breaking, longevity, and more get up and go will make 
this a really nice car for her to drive.

Lookin' forward to any advice...  Thanks!

NQ 

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Re: [vintagvw] Mysterious electrical issues

[rayvwbug via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List]

Did you fix the wiper issue?  That is powered off of fuse 1.  The ignition wire 
is not fused, but comes off the power side of fuse 1 which is why it starts.  
Perhaps your 12 to 6 volt inverter is shorted.  You also have brake lights, 
horn, and emergency flasher off of fuse 1.


Ray



-Original Message-
From: Kyle Davis 01ksda...@gmail.com
To: vintagvw vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sat, Sep 6, 2014 11:01 am
Subject: [vintagvw] Mysterious electrical issues


Fuse 1 keeps blowing on my 66. 

It's been converted to 12 volts, although poorly by a previous owner. 

Recently the wiper motor (still 6 volt, still hooked up to the voltage drop) 
failed on me. 

Interesting thing is the Bakelite plastic fuse cover mentions that being fuse 
8, 
but I really think it is fuse 1 for that's where all of the fuse 1 stuff goes 
according to the diagram I've seen. 

Even with fuse 1 being blown, it does still start. 

Ideas?

Kyle
66 bug

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