Gene Johnson wrote:
Hello all,
I just got a Graflex magazine and a set of 12 septums from Steve
Grimes. He was selling it on eBay. I can find no earthly way to get the
septums into the magazine. There is a difference of about 1.5mm between
the inside of the magazine and the outside of
Has anyone on the NG taken a good look at the Silvestri line of
specialized MF cameras:
http://www.silvestricamera.com/
Much food for thought about how Silvestri does things and if their
techniqes can be adapted to a homebuilt camera.
Regards,
Marv
Brian Swale wrote:
Hello Marv,
Here are other URLs on the same line of thought.
http://digilander.iol.it/clabo/
http://digilander.iol.it/clabo/stw/
Brian Swale
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 11:37:13 -0500
From: Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject
Just a couple of thoughts about modifying the old Kodak Tourist 6 x 9
folding cameras:
1. There is enough room in the filmbays to step up this camera to 120
rollfilm. Eight cast centering ridges (two sets top, two sets bottom)
need to be shaved off flush with the body casting.
2. The wind key
Gene Johnson wrote:
Marv,
I've done just what you're doing. Mine is the coated 3 element Anaston
in the Kodamatic shutter and works amazingly well. Find a lens shade!
Flares pretty badly into the sun. You're right, it's a lot of camera
for the money. Looks nice too.
Gene
Gene:
Robert Stoddard wrote:
Marv,
Please let us know which lens is on your Tourist when you report your
results. Also, what is the diameter of the tubing you used to enlarge the
centering spindles for 120, and where did you get it? RKS
Robert:
The lens is the 105mm f/4.5 Kodak
Gene Johnson wrote:
Marv,
One thing I should coution you about is keeping the take up spindle
assembled with the one way device. If you let the little springs and
rollers out, it can be a devil getting them back in. Otherwise not bad.
Gene:
Been there - done that. I did not take
TSHACK wrote:
About a year ago, in a hobby shop, I saw an assortment of brass and
aluminum tubing put out by a firm called KS. This was a large handfull
of shorts 4 - 6 long in a plastic bag. I think I paid less than
$5.00 for the bag. AFIK, this is a standard product from KS and
Robert Stoddard wrote:
Marv,
Please let us know which lens is on your Tourist when you report your
results. Also, what is the diameter of the tubing you used to enlarge the
centering spindles for 120, and where did you get it? RKS
Robert:
If I am reading my micrometer correctly, (its
Matt Mengel wrote:
A couple of things:
1) Mine already has the f/4.5 (bully for me)
2) Thanks for the 120 upgrade
3) Did you all know that some of these models had the
capability of changing formats? On mine the whole back
comes off (check the left hinge looking from the
back),
Robert Stoddard wrote:
Hi Marv,
This lens must be from another, slightly earlier Kodak camera, right?
Maybe a Monitor or a Vigilant? By the time of the Tourist, they had renamed
the triplet lenses Anastons, although without changing them, I believe.
RKS
Robert:
Probably - although I
TSHACK wrote:
OK, I'm stumped. Anyone know of a good detailed design of a field camera
bed and extension mechanism.
I got some drawings from J. Vail's site, but they aren't detailed enough for
me.
I'm trying to build something that the back standard will move forward (I
don't want
TSHACK wrote:
Anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area know where I can walk in and get some
racks and pinion gears.
I know I can order them from Small Parts, but I want something I can get my
hands on before I buy.
Dwight
___
Cameramakers
I just acquired (in a shrewd business deal) a cannibalized Busch 23.
I have a complete, mint condition version of the same camera so the
following questions are somewhat philosophical rather than driven by
sheer necessity:
The Busch 23 has the standard Busch spring type back. I have a spare
Ran the first roll of film through the converted Tourist yesterday.
Some observations:
1. Feed end upper (adjustible) locating pin has a small rectangular
crosspiece that lightly snags the film spool crossslot. A small thin
washer epoxied over this piece will solve the problem.
2. Tripping the
Mengel
--- Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ran the first roll of film through the converted
Tourist yesterday.
Some observations:
1. Feed end upper (adjustible) locating pin has a
small rectangular
crosspiece that lightly snags the film spool
crossslot. A small thin
washer
Well, the negatives just came out of the wash and onto the light table.
Crisp, clean, sharp - I'll find out how sharp when I dry the film and go
over the negs with a loupe.
The test roll was Kodak TMX100 - I made some grab shots at a flea market
over the weekend. Processed in D76.
Not too bad
Some random thoughts whilst waiting for the epoxy to dry on one of my
projects.
I found (in my junk) two Kodak Instant cameras - unlucky, unloved and
now 10 years after the Polaroid settlement - unusable. However, each
Kodak Instant camera has a large, lovely front surface mirror (larger
than
Bob Mazzullo wrote:
Wouldn't a large negative require a glass equipped negative carrier?
Is there still sagging of the negative regardless?
Bob M
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of John Yeo
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001
Michael Hendrickson wrote:
Hello,
I have yet another recommendation. History first: About 18 years ago I
came up with the same question so I called Marty Forscher Camera Repair
in New York (from California). Mr. Forscher was busy but one of his
assistants asked and relayed back to me
Had an opportunity to buy a handfull of pocket lasers the other day.
These are marketed as a laser keychain and measure 2-1/2 long by
1/2 in diameter.
I had remembered that Kalart made an accessory for the Kalart
rangefinder equipped Graflex press cameras that used a battery and
focused lamp to
window of the RF, half through the
bottom window. When the camera was focused, the two beams converged on the
subject.
If you are putting your laser light source in the same location, then how
is there any danger of light coming out the eyepiece?
RKS
From: Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED
window of the RF, half through the
bottom window. When the camera was focused, the two beams converged on the
subject.
If you are putting your laser light source in the same location, then how
is there any danger of light coming out the eyepiece?
RKS
From: Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED
Robert Mueller wrote:
Why must the viewfinder optics for the eye be shared with the laser? Just
put the laser below or above, though as near as possible. Of course.
magnification can be included. With separation you have no danger to the
eye except maybe if you measure the distance to a
I own a fairly largish collection of Graflex 3 x 4 press type cameras
and a substantial number of Polaroid Pack cameras of the 250, 350, 450
variety - metal construction, Zeiss rangefinder, some with film timers.
I was looking for a way to adapt these Polaroid pack cameras for use
with the
Robert Mayrand wrote:
Thanks guys,
I just did a try with the 400 aluminum oxyde and I'm quite impressed with
the result,I've compare it to a few ground glass I have and the grain seem
just fine. I've tested the diffusion with my lightmeter and it tested about
the same as the ground glass
? Hmm.
Gene
Marv Soloff wrote:
I own a fairly largish collection of Graflex 3 x 4 press type cameras
and a substantial number of Polaroid Pack cameras of the 250, 350, 450
variety - metal construction, Zeiss rangefinder, some with film timers.
I was looking for a way to adapt
John Evans wrote:
BOOK ON MAKING AND USING CAMERAS
I have been commissioned by an international publisher to write a book
about constructing and using cameras, and am currently in the process
of looking for contributors.
It doesn't matter whether your camera is simple or sophisticated,
K Garrison wrote:
Ever done it? I'm looking to scavenge the rollers and something to encase
the film in, and make a skeleton version of pinhole camera.
Any suggestions on which Polaroid I should be looking for?
Kathryn Garrison
___
Matt M wrote:
I have been playing with my Century Graphic 2x3 for a little while
while following this list and have a question that some of the
engineers here may be able to answer for me.
Coming from a commercial background, I tend to rely heavily on
polaroid for previewing a shot.
Larry Pat Nieland wrote:
Hi to all:
Horseman makes a fine Polaroid back ( approx $200 used) for their
970 - 985 and VHR series technical cameras that will fit 6X9 Graphic backs.
This Polaroid back moves the film plane rearward. They also make a focusing
compensator spacer that
Robert Stoddard wrote:
I disagree as to the difficulty. But, if the object of the exercise is
to spend $200 for a used Horseman back, go for it. I never spent more
than a couple of dollars for my Polaroid backs, and they all work.
Marv,
How did you handle the problems that others have
Kenith Ryan wrote:
Does this mean that it would use any of the 3.25 x 4.25 film listed on the
Polaroid website? They don't list the 655, or 690 (at least I didn't see
them) so I am still unsure what films i could use with it.
Kenith Ryan
Matt M wrote:
Wow, Marv,
That
Kenith Ryan wrote:
Marv,
That was where I looked before. As I said, it does not list the 655 or 690
film that you mentioned. I know nothing about these films. That is why I
asked if the 3.25 x 4.25 films could be used. If not what is the correct
size?
Kenith Ryan
Try looking
Michael Hendrickson wrote:
Hello,
In the late 1800s/early 1900s somebody (I think it was Thornton, or
maybe Anthony) used to build small focal plane shutters which could be
mounted on the front of a view camera lens. The shutter was cocked using
a string to pull the rollers which would
Robert Mueller wrote:
It would be tempting to use just any light oil to treat the AE-1 squeak but
normal mineral oils have a troublesome property; they wander, crawling over
the surface. This takes the oil away from where you want it and deposits it
somewhere you definitely don't want it.
J. Wayde Allen wrote:
On Tue, 22 Oct 2002, Kenith Ryan wrote:
I have noticed that some people make the ground glass for their
cameras wit the corners cut out while others leave the corners in. As
I understand it, the corners are cut off to make it easier to tell if
there is any
This may be old hat to some on the NG, but I am going to pass it along.
I had been restoring a Gundlatch-Manhattan 4x5 view camera. The leather
was a total loss so I carefully removed it with a sparse wet-down of hot
water. Unfortunately, some of the water leaked into the camera interior
and
acetone as a last resort .. They
would always make their test on a part of the painting that could not be
seen John Cremati
- Original Message -
From: Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: cameramakers@rosebud.opusis.com
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2002 1:42 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers
Here we go again. I seem to have (over the years) acquired a large
selection of 2 x 3, 3 x 4 and 4 x 5 Graflex single lens reflex cameras.
Nearly all of them have the dried-out, brittle Graflex coated cloth
shutter. I have made new shutters for some of them using a space age
belting material,
Still working from the same 8 ounce bottle I've had for years - very cost
effective.
Regards,
Marv
Philip willarney wrote:
--- Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
..snip..
project. I tested a
careful application of common brake fluid at one end
of the strip
shutter. Sure
Try Steve Grimes at : http://www.skgrimes.com
Regards,
Marv
ethereal art wrote:
Hi...I need someone's help.
I have an Agfa Ansco 8x10 camera. The shutter that came with it is a
Wollensak Optimo #4. It was sticking and 2 of the shutter leaves were
broken.
After 6 months in a camera repair
The extender has to be a piece of plate glass to move the focal plane
back enough to cover a 4 x 5 film holder. Start with 1/4 inch glass and
play.
Regards,
Marv
Uptown Gallery wrote:
Hello Happy Holidays:
I gutted 4 Polaroid folding bellows cameras (mostly roll-type, maybe all
four were)
The seminal article on DIY bellows making is in the July-August 1966
issue of View Camera magazine. Mike Robinson shows how its done in four
pages - mostly pictures.
Regards,
Marv
Wallace Don wrote:
I just bought an old Eastman 8x10 and the bellows is not great. The
cheapest replacement I
The Patent Etui is about 7/8" thick, folded and is quite elegant. Saw one
on eBay last week in the $90.00 range. Lovely piece.
Regards,
Marv
Gene Johnson wrote:
No,
Not hard at all. I made and saved a custom search on eBay for a number of
them. Etui, Avus, Recomar, Certo, Maximar,
Use damp ( warm water) paper towels to loosen the glue. See Thomas
Tomosy's book on the subject.
Regards,
Marv
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm using the box from a 5 X 7 Korona view camera to make a point-and-shoot.
It was missing about 1/3 of its covering, and another small amount was
I have the bellows article.
Regards,
Marv
John Cremati wrote:
Does anyone have the following articles
from View Camera Magazine?
John Cremati
"Building a Camera Bellows", Jul/Aug 1996, pp52-54
"Ground Glass Alignment", Nov/Dec 1996, pp57-59
Not to rain on anyone's parade, but it is my understanding that the
material posted on Cameramaker - the E. M. Love article from Popular
Mechanics magazine for October 1942, is copyright by Hearst Publications
- which still owns and operates Popular Mechanics magazine. If I am
correct,
Jim
I suggest you check with Hearst about that.
Regards,
Marv
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Not to rain on anyone's parade, but it is my understanding that the
material posted on Cameramaker - the E. M. Love article from Popular
Mechanics magazine
my collection of PM magazines, prior to disposing
of them, when I saw this and thought of you people. By the way I have every
issue from 1932
It was not my intention to start a fracas over this
attempt to help.
Jim
-
Original Message -
From:
MarvSoloff
The undisputed champ of "republishing" technical information is Lindsay Publications.
I think he is currently up to the Popular Mechanics compendimum of 1923.
Regards,
Marv
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Marv Soloff [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I suggest you check with He
However, under certain circumstances you can use the Polaroid 545 and 545i
for Kodak single shot Readyloads and Fuji Quickload films. ?See the View
Camera Magazine website for more concrete information.
Regards,
Marv
John Cremati wrote:
Why would you? Polaroid film holders are used for
You can use them for the Kodak Readyload and Fuji Quickloads .
Regards,
Marv
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A quick note on the Polaroid holders use for standard film
You cannot use the Polaroid holders for standard sheet film. The holders
do not have the channels to slide the standard sheet
Damp paper towels (warm water) to soften the glue, then remove with
fingers. Be careful not to get water on varnished surfaces - leaves a
white residue.
Regards,
Marv
Gene Johnson wrote:
Hello all,
I have a very beat up Ensign Popular large format reflex camera. It's
pretty far gone with
Arrrgh - you're here too? (Just kidding). Welcome.
Regards,
Marv
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Newbie here. I don't know if conventions call for an introduction, but
briefly, my name is John Stafford and I live in Southeast Minnesota,
work in academic technology and am also a retired Chicago
This is a heads-up for those looking for a fairly recent 8 x 10
enlarger. Check here on eBay: #2919642596.
Regards,
Marv
___
Cameramakers mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://rmp.opusis.com/mailman/listinfo/cameramakers
Heads up for a set of AO lens cells that will cover 9 x 18. eBay #2918232469
Regards,
Marv
Heads -up - looks like one of the big Elwoods. eBay #2919861440.
Regards,
Marv
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