No problem. Hack saw, bosun chair and poof! Shorter spreaders. :)
Seriously, could be a very subtle cheat for one design or PHRF. The 35-1
class bylaws specify 3' 10.5" for spreader length. Who would notice a
couple inches whacked off?
Dennis C.
On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:40 PM, Rick Brass
I really hate to be a nay sayer about anything in Sail magazine, but the last
racing headsail I had made (a deck sweeper carbon fiber 155) was designed to be
trimmed 4-6” off the upper spreader when hard on the wind – and the sail maker
set the nominal sheet leads for 11 degrees sheeting angle.
Some listers like the Water Witch. I prefer the USS Ultra Pumpswitch
Mini. Very reliable. It is, however, a float type switch.
http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:22 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
I keep hearing good things about the Water Witch, and put one in along with a
Whale Gulper pump. I really like the outcome, but my assessment isn't
dependable as it's only been a month or two.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
I am on my second failed Johnson spx Ultima Switch. Both failed over the
winter several years apart. When failed I suspect went to default "on" since
drained battery before friend checked boat for me. Wiring, pump, connections
ok. Switch just won't come on even when tested as per Johnson.
Just had my rudder rebuilt by Competition Composites in Ontario. I have pics
of the interior and shaft. I had been removing the rudder every winter due to
the water in the rudderso it didn't freeze. .. kept it in the heated
garage...and let it drain a cup or more of black-brown
That is probably a motor start capacitor for an AC motor.
Rich
> On May 3, 2017, at 22:33, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> That size cap has to be for an inverter or maybe an older analog radar.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
Thanks Gary! It works and saved money from buying another electrical load
(pump). I would advise that regardless of the placement of the discharge,
the pump should be as close as possible to the suction. There is a
surprising amount of room under almost all the floor boards. Epoxy a block
of
500v would likely be part of a power supply for vacuum tubes. So, a boat
anchor of some description if it was at all marine related. (Seems doubtful)
Maybe someone had it on hand and was filtering the 12vdc supply?
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 3, 2017, at 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley
Yep, it's frozen. A diver cleaned it out with no success. That said, the
handle moves a minuscule amount. I can't get a bar in there to apply leverage.
There is evidence of a weep of water over many years, as I vacuumed out more
than a cup of salt crystals from that area, and it makes me a
I keep all my seacocks shut when not in use. I don't typically use the
forward berth. I can reach between my 2 batteries to get to the port.
Josh
On May 3, 2017 9:38 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Ahh! I have two batteries, so perhaps the inspection port
Hi Josh,
Very clever arrangement!
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:24 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Sink sea cock is under the settee just aft of the forward bulkhead. I
> have batteries in my compartment but you may not. I also have a
Ahh! I have two batteries, so perhaps the inspection port is hidden under
one of the batteries. I'll check the next time I'm at the boat. That
being said, I don't know what to do, because removing a battery to shuts
off a seacock of a boat that is going down, doesn't seem too practical.
Remember seacocks are supposed to be lubed 2 times a year. Mine are Marlon
and even they are supposed to be lubed. I only get a chance to do it 1
time a year but it seems sufficient to keep all of them smooth and easy.
Josh
On May 3, 2017 9:11 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
Be careful reaching in that hole. Mine has a sharp splinter of wood or
fiberglass that gets me every time.
Josh
On May 3, 2017 9:11 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
wrote:
> My 1990 C 37+ has a sink in the vee berth. I am unable to find the
> seacock for that sink.
Hi Josh,
Since I can't find it, it's hard to know if it's frozen. But I'd like
to find it so I can check.
Gary
~~~_/)~~
On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:30 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Is your seacock frozen open? Might just be a barnacle. Mine is in
That size cap has to be for an inverter or maybe an older analog radar.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 3, 2017 9:00 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
wrote:
> OK, in the box of parts left behind by the prior owner of our 1994 C
> 37/40+ are two
It IS under the forward battery box. And is it not inaccessible, just little
difficult.
Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
> On May 3, 2017, at 6:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 3 May 2017 21:09:57 -0400
> From: Gary
Josh was a little clearer, so my bad. In the compartment where the forward
battery is, under the settee just aft of the V-Berth is a access port. That
said, we only have one battery in there, and it is mounted to the starboard
side of that box, so there is no battery covering the access port.
Is your seacock frozen open? Might just be a barnacle. Mine is in a bad
spot to be replacing and I'd do everything possible to avoid that situation.
Josh
On May 3, 2017 9:16 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
wrote:
> On our 1994, there is a small round inspection port
Having my deck wash hose port come out in the middle of the boat allows for
a 25' hose to reach all areas fore, aft, port and stdb.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 3, 2017 9:11 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"
wrote:
> My 1990 C 37+ has a
Hi Bruce,
Just to port of my forward battery box is the door to the vee berth.
I would have expected it to be just to starboard of the battery box, but
there are no inspection ports there either. Yes, my plan was to mount the
wash down pump in the anchor locker.
Thanks,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
Sink sea cock is under the settee just aft of the forward bulkhead. I have
batteries in my compartment but you may not. I also have a beckson port
(hand hole) which allows access through the floor of the compartment. You
may not have this port. It may just be a hole.
I had a spare see cock in
My 1990 C 37+ has a sink in the vee berth. I am unable to find the
seacock for that sink. Based upon the location of the thru-hull on the
outside of the boat, I would suspect it to be under the forward battery
box, which would be inaccessible and thus pretty stupid. I was hoping to
tap
On our 1994, there is a small round inspection port just to port of the forward
battery box, under the settee. I might be able to find and send you a picture.
Our seacock there is unfortunately frozen, so I plan to replace it the next
time the boat comes out of the water.
As for the salt
Had mine done. ~$5k! According to the fiberglass tech, after thorough
deconstruction the rudder was "fine" but nobody would have been able to
tell. When you go to sell the surveyor is gonna find it and the buyer's
insurance/mortgage company has a high probability of pumping the breaks
over it.
Ron
A few years ago I took my keel off because of weeping at the keel to
hull seam. I ended up replacing all of my bolts
ans a bunch of other glass work. Where in Bristol is your boat? Looks like
you have very good backing plates but some other
issues. I've been a machinist for 40
Picture number 5 is at the base of the stairs correct? I don't have
those. As I recall the trailing edge of my keel stops just a little
further forward.
If I found anything like what you are finding I probably wouldn't sleep
well until I dropped the keel to do further investigation. It's
Hi Don
We redid our rudder a few years ago. Crawled into stern, loosened quadrant,
cables, etc. Dropped it, sawed off the skins both sides, about 4 inches in
from the edge. The rudder is built with a frame of solid glass edging all
around of at least 4 inches – tapping will tell you
OK, in the box of parts left behind by the prior owner of our 1994 C 37/40+
are two Arcotronics C.87.0EF3 50uf capacitors. You can see a picture of them
here: 1pcs - ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 500V(180/15) Capacitor -
C.87.0EE3 MKP | eBay
And, they're not exactly cheap, even on Ebay.
Thanks to the help from other owners, I had the correct information to
properly torque the keel bolts. I ended up having my boatyard do the work
which was probably a good thing as it was a lot of work to remove the nuts
and took more tools than I could borrow. They ended up removing all nuts
and
We do one on the bottom, one about 4-5 inches up, and one 3-4 inches from the
top. Always on the trailing edge. Use 5/16 set screws and drive them in flush.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 3, 2017, at 4:14 PM, J Roger via CnC-List
> wrote:
Can I
I had leaks in all three water tank on my Landfall 38. I ended up fixing(first
failed at a glue attempt followed by plastic welding) the three tanks, but I
decided to permanently remove the v-berth water tank and use the v-berth area
for storage(presently sail storage). Having both port and
Can I send you a PM John? About the C Rudder? Wondering if you could
show where to drill.Much Obliged. JB
On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 1:15 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> On my 27-III we had water in the rudder. When we drilled escape holes,
> one higher up to prevent
BTW, I believe the tank models from Kracor are 1-78232 (port; mold 4071) and
1-78432 (starboard, mold 5139). http://www.kracor.com/pages/marineindustry.html
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On May 3, 2017, at 2:46 PM,
Hi, Jim - to remove the tank, pull the screws and remove the bunk board over
the tank. You can then remove the fill and vent hoses; you should then be able
to lift the tank slightly to get at the outlet fitting on the bottom of the aft
end. The tank should just be resting in the cavity below
Greetings to all sailors...I have a water problem. It appears that i have a
leak in my port tank. I can see water coming from under the forward inside
corner. Can't see the leak only water exiting. No pipe connections nearby. My
problem is to remove & repair the tank OR cut it out and covert
That is true, one carries the penalty both upwind and down. If the course is
OM vs. W/L then the penalty is even more severe since upwind is only 40% of the
race.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis
The rudder on my 34 remarkably did not have this common issue. Typically,
owners drill a hole in the bottom of the rudder when the boat is hauled in the
fall, let it drain all winter, then seal the hole before spring launch. Sounds
like what you did.
The rudder on my 42 had this issue and I
The first time we raced the Gulfport Pensacola race in 2000, we had the 170
and 6 second penalty. We carried the 170 for the first 5-6 miles, changed
down to a 155 for about 10 miles more out to the Gulfport sea buoy. Once
we rounded the sea buoy, we set the chute and carried the chute AND the 6
Friends had a 1974 C 25. When they purchased in November 2001 it still had
original sails including a 170.
2 years later they purchased a new North Kevlar 150 and dropped the 170 from
their inventory. The boat was much faster and no longer incurred a penalty.
It is my belief that the
On my 27-III we had water in the rudder. When we drilled escape holes, one
higher up to prevent vacuum effect, we tapped them. Now in the fall we pull the
set screws and water comes out - maybe a few ounces. The winter cold causes the
rest to efflorescence so in the spring we re-insert the
When I raced mine more regularly, I took the penalty for my 160%. Maybe if I
had a new 155% it would be OK, but in the light air, I found I needed all the
SA I could get.From my times to Chatfield, it seemed like you had more light
air, much like the midwest.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL
When you get the light-medium will you be going to a 160% full hoist given the
heavy is 151%?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Sent: Wednesday, May 3, 2017 6:10 AM
Subject: Re:
Hi
I have a 1981 C 34 which I'm trying to sell, and now am concerned about the
issues on the boat. The biggest one is the moisture in the rudder.
About a foot up from the bottom of the rudder there has been a small quasi
hole, about 1/16th of an inch, for quite a while. When I hauled the
This has been a good thread. Grenadine came with six headsails not counting
staysails:
#1 genoa, 163%, medium-light
#2 genoa, 148%, medium-heavy
drifter, 148%, light
#3 genoa, 128%, heavy
working jib, ~100%, medium-heavy
storm jib, heavy
Last year I raced mostly with the #2 genoa,
If you really want your 35 to sail higher and faster send your keel to Mars and
have a high aspect modern elliptical keel made for it. They have plans. A
local boat Osprey did this, has a 114 phrf and wins almost every race its in
over the past 10 years or more. Jerry J
Sent from my
Reading the thread on sail advice, there were a couple of not so obvious
nuggets I'd like to amplify.
A racer buddy of mine told me, you never change down from a #1 to a #2, you
always go to the #3 or blade. Good advice.
Couple of posts on the sail thread said something similar.
Wind force
Hi Jake
Much different boat but similar discussion. We had a J27 that had jib tracks
on cabin top for blade and genoa tracks on deck for 150. This was indeed for
sheeting angle with the blade. However in any heavier winds resulted in over
powered boat. The recommended solution was
Hi Bruno/Dave
Yes #1, #2, #3 is not really meaningful to the sailmaker for design
consideration but is very important for crew. The 33-2 is quite similar to our
Frers 33. On the Frers 33 the conventional wisdom is 150, 140, blade.
Persistence came with a nearly new #3 (smallish and capable
All this talk about sails reminds me that we need a (new to us) criusing main
for our 34, (P= 38'3" E=10'11").
Wondering if any of you might have one for sale?
Bill McNamara
Miss Conduct,
Picton On.
___
This list is supported by the generous donations
Even with a sail larger than 105 the sheeting angle may make a difference.
There isn't much online about racing sail design for an older C 30 so
some of it is guesswork and some experimenting.
I wanted a sail that would cover a wide wind range, possible now with the
strength of materials like
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