Just keep in mind you can only rebuild a Martec 2 times. So a Martec has 3
lives; original, rebuild 1; rebuild 2 then dumpster.
Dennis C.
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To change your list prefere
Hey, don't leave a hole in your boat, man.
Clean the hole out enough to get a good physical bond, rough it up a
bit, and get some Marine-Tex and mix it up and stick it in a syringe and
fill the thing. I've done that, under duress, and it has been rock
solid for over eight years.
Holes are h
In 2001 I installed an Autohelm 6000 on my C&C 44. This spring the plastic
cover disappeared and I am trying to find a replacement. Any help would be
appreciated.
Jim McDonald
Breakaweigh 1
Sent from my iPad
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Hi Wally,
Thanks for your input. I actually looked over your site to see if Stella Blue
had the stud. Originally I did not see any sign of one, but after reading your
reply I came across (http://www.wbryant.com/weblogs/bV_1109/bv_205.JPG) which
clearly shows the stud. I did not know about
Dave,
Had my Martec rebuilt last year before we headed to the Bahamas. Folks at
Martec were easy to deal with. Had/have the only one blade deploying issue
primarily when I failed to stop/slow sufficiently before putting in forward
(ie sailing @ under 3 knots = time for iron genny) Couldn't kick it
OK, while we are on the subject of silly things. The Previous owner of my
boat had a fire extinguisher located in the propane locker.
I thought it was kinda silly at first, I mean, who's gonna wanna reach in
there if somethings ablaze?
Then I thought about it some more and I figured if it got ho
Kevin,
Glad you were able to trace the problem! This a good reminder for those
with external regulators.
Joel
On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:58 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> After cleaning all the terminals, checking fuses etc. I found that the
> wire from the a
Bill,
Holy crap, I never thought of that. My boat came with a latch and lock on
the propane locker.
Here I am spouting off at the gizzard thinking I'm doing the right thing.
Assuming you are correct, and it seems like you may be, I guess I have to
remove that latch and think of a new way to rem
Has anyone on the list had any experience fishing wires through the headliner
of a C&C 30 mark II? I just added a radome on my mast with the cables exiting
the mast along with the masthead light, etc, wiring and I'd like to get them
back to the panel without going through the bilge.
Thanks in a
Brent,
Several weeks ago a J30 broke its tiller at the windward mark, causing
havoc for the rest of the fleet. Fortunately, he was doing his usual
sloppy rounding and everyone managed to go between him and the mark as he
did 360s while out of control. Don't be that idiot!
Joel
On Wed, Jul 9,
Gary,
Check with Rob at South Shore, when my sister replaced her mid 70’s C&C 30’s
holding tank he had the exploded diagram on how it came apart …
http://southshoreyachts.com/about_southshoreyacht/
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Garry Cross
via CnC-List
Sen
Hi all, I am trying to get my bathroom apart in order to access the stinky
leaking recirculating bladder holding tank I have.
So far I have the vanity sink, counter and cabinet face out.
Does anyone have any experience doing this. The wall is giving me a bit of
a challenge figuring out how to disma
I have made many bent shaft canoe paddles. From what you are describing sounds
very doable. Can you send picture off list.
Bill Walker
CnV 36
Evening Star
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my HTC
- Reply message -
From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"
To: "Bill Bina - gmail" , "cnc-list@cnc-lis
Yes there are less than perfect options available. I really like the look of
the original unit. C&C cut every corner on cost with the MkV (compared to
previous mks) but somehow spent money on this really slick tiller. I'd prefer
it look original when I'm done.
I looked at the website last night
Hi Dave,
My prop is for all intents brand new and I occasionally get the big
vibration when I advance the throttle too quickly after shifting in reverse
but never in forward. Going back to idle and accelerating smoothly fixes
it.
As for how much play you might have I think the only way to know
After cleaning all the terminals, checking fuses etc. I found that the wire
from the alternator to the external regulator had corroded and fallen off.
I didn't see it at first because it's buried in my tight engine
compartment. Of course in hindsight I might have checked the regulator
earlier. Good
I have a Martec folding prop which when I come off the mooring operates
fine. However if I slow down or stop to pick up crew at the dock something
happens and it vibrates like crazy. It's got to be that one of the blades
folded and the other didn't and when I accelerate it still vibrates as
though
David,
Do you have contact information to make reservations at the Alofsin
Piers? Do you know if they are floating docks?
Looking forward to seeing you in September. The Enterprise is planning
to be there.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
NEVER lock or latch a propane locker! Repeat, NEVER. If the tank
explodes you want the force to blow upwards through the freely opening
hatch. If it is latched or locked, the force will blow downward through
the bottom of your boat. I don't think legal propane lockers even have a
latch. That is
Hi Chuck,
I Typically close all seacocks before leaving the boat for the week. For
me, it's a simple all or nothing deal and I have a placard (3 X 5 sheet of
paper :-) ) I put on the sink cover (1st thing you see coming in the
cabin) that says "All seacocks shut".
Since I do it almost every
Jon,
If people used the same due dilligence with their gas engines that you do
with propane this would not be an issue.
I have all the propane equipment you do and still turn off the gas at the
tank when I'm done cooking. My propane locker has a pad lock on it, *rule
on the boat is*; Lock open, g
Thanks Joe, you've basically articulated my viewpoint better than I could.
The A4 has an undeserved bad reputation that, when viewed from a financial
perspective, is a good thing for the buyers out there .. of course, bad for
sellers. However, upgrading to a diesel won't get you your money back ..
I have had a boat with a diesel and the 4-107 is definitely a better boat
engine than an A4 if you can fit one in your boat. Unlike the A4, which is the
height of 1920s tech, the 4-107 is the height of 1950s tech. Even better are
the Kubota derived diesels like the Beta that are this century tec
I close all my seacocks unless they're being used. The first thing I did
with my boat when I purchased it was to replace all of the original gate
valves and thru-hulls with proper bronze sea-cocks .. all but the cockpit
drains. I did not replace those through hulls and gate valves because the
valve
Funny you mentioned that. I found it curious that my cockpit drains are
below the waterline. All my cockpit drains in my old boat were (just) above
the waterline. That seems like a more prudent practice. Not sure the logic
behind this practice.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.
Curtis,
Cycling the seacocks is a great practice. I hope you misspoke when you
said you have seacocks on your cockpit drains closed. Maybe I
misunderstand but if the drains are closed where does the water go when it
rains? Similarly, ice dams in cockpit drains has sunk boats at the dock
through
To add to the checklist, some people have found it helpful to hang the
ignition key off the Raw Water Intake Sea Cock handle.
Saves that error.
Ken H.
On 9 July 2014 11:00, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
> I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment
> blower to suck ou
It was several years ago (2006?) when I looked for someone to custom
build this unusual tiller, and I believe ruddercraft was one of the
places that either said they couldn't do it, or lost my email address
after I sent them a photo of what it was I needed.
Obviously, you could replace the til
I have a C&C30 MK1 with a updated 2GM20F . I run the engine compartment
blower to suck out the heat and vent the area while running. But not for
the extraction of CO2. I haven't worried about that. With an open forward
hatch and and the cockpit hatch open pushing no less than 3 knots of winds
thre
Sorry, I meant CO. I blame the Bushmill's. Thanks for setting me
straight. :)
Rob
On Wednesday, July 9, 2014, Burt Stratton > wrote:
> Bob,
>
>
>
> You bring up an excellent point about CO detectors. (not CO2). Any fired
> device (stove, engine, generator, etc.) is capable of quickly generat
Amazing that I can get a custom built laminated mahogany and ash tiller for
less than a telescoping asymmetrical tiller extension! I am getting quite a
lesson in the cost of sailing gear and I haven't even started looking into
my rigging.
-Original Message-
From: Jerome Tauber [mailto:jr
Great resource! Thank you
-Original Message-
From: Jerome Tauber [mailto:jrtau...@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 9:44 AM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tiller
Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap.
http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/i
Rudder craft can custom make one though not cheap.
http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php. Jerry. C&C 27v.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 9, 2014, at 8:41 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick
> attached with
Rob makes some good points but misses one fundamental difference between gas on
boats and other uses (cars. lawn mowers etc) namely that any spill of gas is
going to be contained in the hull of a boat. A spill / leak on a car etc will
disperse. Once in the hull, unless evacuated by the blower, i
Bob,
You bring up an excellent point about CO detectors. (not CO2). Any fired device
(stove, engine, generator, etc.) is capable of quickly generating dangerous
levels of carbon monoxide in a confined space such as the cabin of a sailboat.
It is very rare to find one properly installed on a
Related sort of... I just restored my tiller but I have a hiking stick
attached with a handle on it (as opposed to a golf stick) I have never used
a hiking stick but this looks more comfortable than the golf stick version.
It is pretty beat up so I thought I'd look into replacing it but have found
Don't overlook your natural resources; a couple of hockey sticks glued together
make a fine tiller. Sans blades, of course.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On Jul 9, 2014, a
Hi Bill this is likely the route I will go. One of my crew is a fine woodwork
carpenter. I've approached him already.
I cant do anything with the old one. It was rough 6 years ago when I bought the
boat, so much so th PO Had an aluminum reinforcement made for it, kind of a
frame that takes the
Chuck, Is that river still sick?
http://www.chesapeakebay.net/blog/post/magothy_river_health_continues_to_be_poor_according_to_latest_report_card
On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 12:32 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
> Had another amazing weekend again on the Magothy River. The 20 to 30 knot
> Northwe
"The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to
140 degrees F"
So these same bacteria will also survive and maybe thrive in the boat's
fresh water tanks too.we clean and soak the tanks and lines with
hypochlorite solution at the start of every season and treat added water
with hypochlor
When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a
bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make
replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself.
Bought some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to
form the shape and lam
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