I have the same question except I have a PVC zodiac. I am getting small
leaks at the lower port and starboard transom lower corners. I have an
inflated floor so it mainly an annoyance, but would love to hear a cheap
fix.
Seems like single ply membrane roofing is pretty much the same PVC and they
h
Hi Andrew,
I had this problem in an Wagner *50 autopilot
many years ago. It was corrosion on the main
driver circuit board at one of the large transistors.
My recommendation is to take apart and clean as
much as possible your control head circuitry,
using Fred approved cleaning methodology
The first thing I would check is to make sure that the compass is
operational and there is no metal close to it
Ahmet
Tabasco, C&C 25
Waterdancer, Irwin 43 CC
Winthrop, MA
On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 11:11 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Andrew,
>
> One other thing to try
Andrew,
One other thing to try. Have you tried using the port/starboard buttons to
operate it manually? Perhaps hold the wheel and see if the belt is
slipping when you press the buttons.
Also, a couple of the guide wheels could be worn or loose but I don't see
that causing a problem in one dire
I have a WP30 but have never seen that issue. Mine has worked well for 15
years. Wish they still made them.
Like Rick said, it may be a slipping belt. You can find replacement belts
by Googling but some of the candidates work poorly. The *ONLY *one that
really works well is a
Gates *AT5*-825-1
Graham,I am a fellow owner of a 35 -3 and have potential problems with my
rudder also. Iwould be very
pleased to have any pictures you have of your rudder interior. Thanks in
advance; Lee.
Lee Christiansen 1987 c&c 35 -3 c/b Blue Point NY
-Original Message-
From: Graham Collins via CnC
I believe the WP30 is a direct drive unit (gears vs. belt) and I can hear the
motor, so I’m pretty sure it’s not trying to adjust to port.
It also doesn’t have a rudder angle indicator (I think it’s completely
self-contained unit that mounts on the pedestal).
--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 197
I have an even older Navico WP5000 on my 38, and had a similar problem a couple
of years ago. It would track straight but drift to port – basically the wheel
would turn when the pilot was adjusting to port but not when the adjustment was
to starboard. Turned out that the belt was worn and slippi
The first thing I check when an autopilot goes wonky is the rudder angle
indicator. It will often come unhooked from its tiller above the quadrant.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-52
Hi Chris
You say re-core it, do you intend to replace all the foam (and new
skins), or do the cut open, scoop out saturated foam, refill?
I can shoot you some pics of my rudder interior if you want.
Where in Halifax are you?
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
BBYC / Waeg - Halifax, N
Hey all -
I’ve got a Simrad WP30 that only seems to like steering to starboard. After
following the instructions in the manual for holding a course it does nothing
except make many small adjustments to starboard, at which point the boat just
goes in circles. The PO said he thought it had worke
>From many reviews Spot is not as good as inReach (Delorme). It is cheaper, but
>the coverage is not as good and if I understand correctly, inReach offers a
>bit more function.
I worked with a friend using the inReach to organise a search and rescue in
Andes and it worked flawlessly. We were
Steve,
Don’t I recall this all started because you were changing over to golf cart
batteries or diesel start batteries like Group 31s?
Couldn’t you take the batteries you bought back to the battery dealer and swap
for batteries with the automotive lug terminals?
Golf cart batteries co
looking at adhesive to repair Achilles hypalon dinghy, hate to pay boat prices.
advice sought. generic polychlorprolene adhesive?
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
I agree, I use a good mechanical co
The SPOT is also a $112 EPIRB.
OK. OK. Not really.
But if you have to ditch and push the SOS button it sends your information to
the same SAR site in Houston that gets your info from an EPIRB. They then call
your emergency contact, and then the Coast Guard – or whatever the closest SAR
Sent from my mobileikycfyyuub look device. Dg
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greatly appreciated!
Why are you not bolting onto the stud? What am I missing here?
On May 25, 2016, at 6:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured
Here's another vote for the inreach. Just got one and used it for a couple of
deliveries up from the islands and found it very good. You can pay month to
month and it gives your position every ten minutes. Plus you get two-way
texting. It's a very good unit. I liked my Spot, too, but this is muc
We tested the Inreach last year and now require them for each boat on the Coho
Ho Ho Rally from Seattle to SF/SD. They provide tracking data, and with an
Oceans weather package text weather info, and with a smart phone the ability to
send small text messages. Hopefully we will have a better re
Agree about Spot reliability. Oregon Offshore Race uses them every year and
every year boats drop off, fail to update, etc etc. We also have to
remember to reset them every 24hrs or they will automatically shut off.
But, I have heard that they are improving FWIW.
Dennis, if you have AIS your wife
I have a collection of grunert holding plates sitting in my garage. Is it
worthwhile to try to connect the plates to new compressors?
Bacon won't take them on consignment, which should tell me the answer.
--
Joel
301 541 8551
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This list is support
I agree, I use a good mechanical connection (ancor like crimps) everywhere
except on the battery lugs(I’m talking large gauge wire).
ABYC actually has an exception to the “shall not solder rule”
From ABYC E-11
11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any
c
Hello,I bought a sailboat dinghy to sail in the small lakes around us. It is a
13' C&C Yachts serial # NS12771N. I was told the model is "Nutshell". I cannot
find any information on it and was wondering if anyone has heard or knows
anything about it. It is light (about 200 lbs. I think) and a ve
Steve,
Check here, http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664
They have both sizes (3/8” & 5/16”) and a Mississauga office.
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25 #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Dennis,
Fred owns a Spot and can tell you about his experience. For the 2014 A2B
the RC went with Spots to save money. Several boats, including ours, found
them to be unreliable. We had to remember to broadcast our postiion every
hour so people didn't think we were stationary. The auto update d
Thinking about offshore race coming up. The race uses Kattack for race
tracking. Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it
worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.
The app was free.
A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.
REI.com ha
Fred, you are committed!
Sometimes I think I should be committed .. in that other less positive way.
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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You’re lucky; my boat is 3-1/2 hours away… :^) I’ll be heading there later
today, to launch tomorrow.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On May 25, 2016, at 11:32 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> The boat
Hi,
Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links
you guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:
The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine
compartment, to the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll
have to do some boat surgery j
ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to
wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection. Solder stiffens
the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to vibration; and a
wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will so
My guess/assumption is that any battery cables on a boat that have the
old style automotive lead clamps are old cables that may not even be
proper marine tinned cables. Lots of wiring on old boats, including C&C,
was not tinned wire and needs to be replaced, even if it hasn't
failed... yet.
B
Steve,
I agree with Fred. Rather than dealing with the clamping lug adapters and
clamping lugs on you cables, it is much better to use proper sized eyelets
lugs. It may actually cost you less to convert the cables, and likely lead to
less troubles down the road. An other advantage is that on
These guys have a Canadian presence.
Here's your part: http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664
Here's the Canadian contact info:
Toll Free: 800–728–1742[image: Canadian flag]
E-mail: cdnsa...@quickcable.com
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 8:38 AM,
Steve,
The part you listed is a 3/8” adapter – but if that is the one you need, there
are a number of Acklands Grainger locations in the GTA – and throughout
Southern Ontario, have you checked with them?
Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C&C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club
From: CnC-List [mai
NO type of adapter or work-around is any more secure, reliable, or ABYC
compliant, than a wing nut on a threaded stud. A regular nut tightened
by a wrench on a threaded stud is even better. Old school automotive
type post and clamp connections have never been terribly reliable,
either. I think
Pics of the job when I had mine done.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 25, 2016 8:58 AM, "Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and
Helicoil? The 3/8 is a coarse thread (16 tpi). I would assume that the
5/16 is as well (18 tpi). You should be able to pick up a thread repair
kit at an auto parts store.
Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Washed, waxed and waiting for a Tuesday launch
On 5/25
Steve — if you don’t have any luck with the post adapters, by far the best
solution (even though it may be difficult) would be to have the correct ends on
the battery cables. What size and length of cable are we talking about here
for the positive and negative runs? I’d be happy to do the prop
Search for 'stud to post conversion ' at elecdirect.com in mississauga.
They'll ship it same day. I buy from them quite often.
Ed
On May 25, 2016 9:39 AM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure i
look here:
http://excellence-peterbilt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Catalogue-daccessoires-pour-batterie-Grote-2012.pdf
joel
On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
Maybe I'm missing something here but why don't you simply change the ends of
your battery cables to work with the studs?
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> On May 25, 2
Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was
wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What are
the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?
Chris
C&C 37 Northern Light
Halifax
Sent from my iPad
> On May 24,
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