Stus-List West Coast races

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Here are a couple of weeks of racing drama to follow while you toil 
at your (sometimes meaningless) work life.

 yada yada :)

http://www.vanisle360.com/wp/

I've done the Van Isle 360 a few times, twice on an old C 45 
war-horse. It is getting a wee bit too polished. this year even has a 
class of TP52... unfortunately there is only one boat in it. WTF.


Now, the R2AK is drama! You really need to read everything on the 
website. The scribe who does team bio and daily updates is a genius.


https://r2ak.com/

https://r2ak.com/race-daily-updates/

http://tracker.r2ak.com/


cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk1
Anyone looking for a nice 35 on Vancouver Island for 25 grand CND? 
That's about 15 dollars in the States. ___

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Re: Stus-List set screws

[William Walker via CnC-List]

I guess you have to be there...so to speak...yes, in line with shaft and VERY 
little room between bolts and coupler...thanks for thoughts and I get the 
purpose of the lockwire...its just not quite as accessible as many other 
applications that I have done with lockwire and was thinking of stacked set 
screws as alternative.  
Thanks all for thoughts.
Bill Walker 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, June 12, 2017 Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Bill, 


I can't picture why there is inadequate room to lock wire the screws.  When you 
say perpendicular to the coupler I can't picture if that is perpendicular to 
the shaft or inline with the shaft.  I think you're describing inline with the 
shaft which makes me wonder why using a cotter pin wouldn't work?


Either way, lock wire should normally be routed in a figure 8 such that 
loosening of either or both of the bolts will result in the tightening of the 
wire.


Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD





On Jun 11, 2017 4:31 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List"  
wrote:

All,
  I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring.  Shaft is seated in coupler 
and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in shaft..i 
know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts through drilled 
heads so can't come loose.  But, when seated the drilled holes in bolt heads 
are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no room to properly safety 
wire these..
I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety wire, 
BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws instead and 
stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead.
Thoughts..

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


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___

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Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I have Raymarine instrumentation and added their autopilot.  The system works 
extremely well.  The locked heading mode keeps the boat on course within a 
degree or two while barely moving the rudder.  Wind vane mode gives similar 
performance.  Auto tach is better than most helmsmen.  Your old ram should be 
fine.  The key to the system is their control algorithm and use of 9 (I think) 
inputs from the boat’s instrumentation.  The P70R interface is easy to use.  I 
can control most of the AP from my E125 but need the P70R to use wind vane and 
auto tach.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 9:17 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

 

Hello all,

 

I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!

 

So, I have a couple questions:

 

1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?

 

2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?

 

3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  

 

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.  

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madiera Beach, FL 

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I re-sealed the Atkins & Hoyle hatch on my 34-1.  I found the replacement 
gasket material on-line.  A little pricey but stopped the leaking.

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

Hi All,

My C 34-1 hatch has some leaks.  I put some new hatch tape on then had a kid 
soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks.  It's leaking between plastic 
and metal, not where the tape is.   

Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better option?  

Photo of the said hatch:  https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J

Thanks,

  Jeremy
  C 34-1 #041 
  Vancouver BC





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___

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Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

I put in a Garmin AP to drive a 3rd party hydraulic ram.  Simple and works 
great.  Plays well with B components I have.I did try Raymarine AP once.  
Never again.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:38 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

 

This is not a definitive answer but simply an observation.  I believe that 
keeping the hydraulics is probably achievable and a good choice.  They are 
pretty simple.  2 drive wires (+/-) and 2 directional wires (+/-).  From what I 
can tell that is normal.  You will have to find out how much current and what 
voltage the drive motor draws and ensure that it mates with the new drive 
controller...or rather ensure that you select a new drive controller that mates 
to your hydraulics drive.  You may find that you're rudder angle sender will 
need changed out... Mhe, no biggie.  If your flux gate compass still works fine 
you may be able to save a few bucks and some labor by reusing it.

 

It seems most of the list is fond of Raymarine products but I agree with the 
intuitive nature of Garmin products.  I suggest looking for a unit that is as 
forward and backwards compatibile as possible and does not employ proprietary 
controls.  I don't know all of the possible options but NMEA0183, NMEA2000, 
wifi, and SignalK would be on my wish list.  This will help minimize planned 
obsolescence.

 

Have you checked ebay or consignment shops for repair/replacement parts?  Might 
be easier and more cost effective.  Over the years I have amassed replacement 
parts for nearly all of my critical and high dollar components.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Jun 12, 2017 9:18 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Hello all,

 

I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!

 

So, I have a couple questions:

 

1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?

 

2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?

 

3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  

 

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.  

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madiera Beach, FL 

(847) 404-5092   (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  


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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List set screws

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bill,

I can't picture why there is inadequate room to lock wire the screws.  When
you say perpendicular to the coupler I can't picture if that is
perpendicular to the shaft or inline with the shaft.  I think you're
describing inline with the shaft which makes me wonder why using a cotter
pin wouldn't work?

Either way, lock wire should normally be routed in a figure 8 such that
loosening of either or both of the bolts will result in the tightening of
the wire.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 11, 2017 4:31 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>   I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring.  Shaft is seated in
> coupler and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in
> shaft..i know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts
> through drilled heads so can't come loose.  But, when seated the drilled
> holes in bolt heads are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no
> room to properly safety wire these..
> I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety
> wire, BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws
> instead and stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead.
> Thoughts..
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

This is not a definitive answer but simply an observation.  I believe that
keeping the hydraulics is probably achievable and a good choice.  They are
pretty simple.  2 drive wires (+/-) and 2 directional wires (+/-).  From
what I can tell that is normal.  You will have to find out how much current
and what voltage the drive motor draws and ensure that it mates with the
new drive controller...or rather ensure that you select a new drive
controller that mates to your hydraulics drive.  You may find that you're
rudder angle sender will need changed out... Mhe, no biggie.  If your flux
gate compass still works fine you may be able to save a few bucks and some
labor by reusing it.

It seems most of the list is fond of Raymarine products but I agree with
the intuitive nature of Garmin products.  I suggest looking for a unit that
is as forward and backwards compatibile as possible and does not employ
proprietary controls.  I don't know all of the possible options but
NMEA0183, NMEA2000, wifi, and SignalK would be on my wish list.  This will
help minimize planned obsolescence.

Have you checked ebay or consignment shops for repair/replacement parts?
Might be easier and more cost effective.  Over the years I have amassed
replacement parts for nearly all of my critical and high dollar components.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 12, 2017 9:18 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It
> is outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the
> wired controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.
> Oh well, something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...
> I've been pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!
>
> So, I have a couple questions:
>
> 1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon
> not retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?
>
> 2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a
> C90 MFD at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for
> the autopilot as well?
>
> 3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?
>
> Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent
> review on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a
> side note, I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to
> Garmin, and just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying
> to learn another language.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Bruce

Keep the Ram.

If you want full integration stay with Ray. I like their new autopilots.
Fred should have internet in a couple days.  I'm sure he'll weigh in.

Joel
On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 9:18 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It
> is outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the
> wired controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.
> Oh well, something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...
> I've been pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!
>
> So, I have a couple questions:
>
> 1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon
> not retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?
>
> 2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a
> C90 MFD at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for
> the autopilot as well?
>
> 3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?
>
> Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent
> review on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a
> side note, I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to
> Garmin, and just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying
> to learn another language.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I used the Loos guidance which states between 10%and 15% of break
strength.  I started with 10% on all of my shrouds, made sure they were
equal port and starboard, and recorded the values.  I've been sailing and
observed the performance of the rig.  The Owners manuals and collective
wisdom of the list state something to the effect of, "the leeward shrouds
should go slightly slack when beam reaching in 15 to 20kts of wind."  My
observations of my rig are in agreement with that guidance.  Now I have
specific and measurable numbers to shoot for whenever I need to re-tune the
rig.  At the very least a starting point.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jun 12, 2017 9:03 PM, "Hugh Briggs via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello I am the proud new owner of a 1981 C 32 and am trying to set up
> the standing rigging. I have the use of a  Loos Gauge and would like to
> know what the tension should be set at. I initially set it at 15 and went
> sailing. The rig has lost a few points and now reads at about 13. Are there
> tables for the outer and inner shrouds?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Hugh Briggs
> C 32
> Desiderata
> Thunder Bay, ON
> Lake Superior
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!
So, I have a couple questions:
1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?
2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?
3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.  
Thanks for the help!

Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C 32

[Hugh Briggs via CnC-List]

Hello I am the proud new owner of a 1981 C 32 and am trying to set up the 
standing rigging. I have the use of a  Loos Gauge and would like to know what 
the tension should be set at. I initially set it at 15 and went sailing. The 
rig has lost a few points and now reads at about 13. Are there tables for the 
outer and inner shrouds? 
Thanks in advance.

Hugh Briggs
C 32
Desiderata
Thunder Bay, ON
Lake Superior


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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

FYI, Amsteel (and any other Spectra or Dyneema line) floats..
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA
Novabraid USA 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:41 PM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was think of going from top down with feeding the new line.Seems like 
> the amstel blue may make that easier.  Thoughts on that?
> 
> 
> Donald
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Donald:
>> 
>> It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable 
>> to the new.
>> 
>> When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater? 
>> I dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the 
>> connector is bulky, it may get hung up while going through a sheave.
>> 
>> Maybe someone on the list has a better idea. I've seen a ton of clever 
>> solutions pop up here over the years.
>> 
>> 
>> Jack Brennan
>> Former C 25
>> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
>> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>> 
>> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:18 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Donald Sebastian
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
>> 
>> Jack,
>> 
>> Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option.
>> 
>> The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one 
>> way motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to 
>> lift would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift 
>> cannot accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane 
>> rental, lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several 
>> thousand just in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line such 
>>> as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding steel 
>>> cables failing without notice.
>>> 
>>> Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to salt 
>>> water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is not an 
>>> issue with a centerboard cable.
>>> 
>>> On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had 
>>> served as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the 
>>> (simple) job for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or 
>>> deterioration at all.
>>> 


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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Its an Atkins & Hoyle hatch.  You can have it rebuilt or buy a new rubber
gasket and replace it yourself.

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 4:57 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> My C 34-1 hatch has some leaks.  I put some new hatch tape on then had a
> kid soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks.  It's leaking
> between plastic and metal, not where the tape is.
>
> Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better
> option?
>
> Photo of the said hatch:  https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J
>
> Thanks,
>
>   Jeremy
>   C 34-1 #041
>   Vancouver BC
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
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Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Hi All,

My C 34-1 hatch has some leaks.  I put some new hatch tape on then had a
kid soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks.  It's leaking
between plastic and metal, not where the tape is.

Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better
option?

Photo of the said hatch:  https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J

Thanks,

  Jeremy
  C 34-1 #041
  Vancouver BC
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Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[Sander van der Moolen via CnC-List]

Wow those pictures are amazing! Thanks for sharing 

I am not as tall as you (6’1 or 1.87m) but I doubt that will make the v-berth 
more comfy… Will check it out.

 

When my wife and I go for the visit, we’ll take our own pictures and share some.

 

 

Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net] 
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 19:57
Aan: Sander van der Moolen 
CC: cnc-list 
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Well, I don't know the exact measurement of the forward V-berth, but let me put 
it this way.  I'm about 6'3" tall and I just barely fit in the V-berth.  My 
feet can touch the forward bulkhead while my head touches the next one aft.  
And there's not much room forward for both my feet and my wife's feet.  We find 
the most comfortable sleeping arrangement is to convert the dinette, and slide 
out the starboard settee.  I can lay corner-to-corner on the converted dinette 
and have enough room.  Your mileage may vary, depending on the berths in the 
30E and your heights (the 30E appears to have settees on both sides, and a 
fold-down table around the mast.  That's a different interior layout than the 
30-1.)

 

More pics of Grenadine (from last year) at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTY0VBM2hlT0hveDQ.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "Sander van der Moolen"  >
To: "RANDY"  >, 
"cnc-list"  >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:47:30 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi Randy,

 

Thanks for the links and info, very helpful! Love the pictures and your 
detailed project report. Will certainly keep that on hand.

Not sure if the boat has carbon spars, I will check when we go to visit it. She 
sure looks great, that’s what attracted me to the 27 back then too.

And 1.90m headroom in the cabin, I can comfortably stand upright in there! I 
think 15k is very reasonable, especially if she’s in good shape structurally.

I do plan to have a professional survey done.

 

What is the length of the forward cabin bed, btw? We want a boat which can take 
us on vacation for a week or two (or longer) so a comfy bed is kinda important.

 

Thanks!

Sander

 

 

Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net] 
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 17:52
Aan: cnc-list  >
CC: sander  >
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

That is a good-looking boat Sander.  Does it have carbon spars?  (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures).  Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc.  And a dodger.  And 
spinnaker gear.  In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck.  My 30-1 has tiller steering 
and boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which 
makes for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E).

 

It's hard to find information on the 30E.  Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it.  I 
saw polar diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html. 
 Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built.  They seem rare :)

 

On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM).  I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts.  But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

  _  

From: "sander via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "sander"  >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which 

Stus-List Intriguing problem solved

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Remember my issue with the pull knob on a jib track breaking off?  See the
knob on the deck in the shadow?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA/view

I had proposed several options.  Option 1 worked.  I put the slide under
tension with a line to a winch in order to bind the pin to keep it from
spinning.  I then managed to carefully drill and tap the pull pin from the
top.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsZ3lTUFhvRGRaMUk

I then re-attached the knob with a machine screw.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsOUYzSnBHTExKSzQ

The pin wouldn't lift all the way up due to some drill cuttings in the
spring cavity.  After a bit of coaxing, the slide slid off the T-track.

For grins, I drilled and tapped deeper and "re-built" the slide.  Here it
is next to the replacement slide.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsSk1BWXhSa0lPWW8

Not sure what I'll do with it.  I wouldn't trust it.  I might eBay it for
cheap with a strong caveat.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

I was think of going from top down with feeding the new line.Seems like the 
amstel blue may make that easier.  Thoughts on that?


Donald








> On Jun 12, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Donald:
> 
> It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable to 
> the new.
> 
> When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater? I 
> dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the 
> connector is bulky, it may get hung up while going through a sheave.
> 
> Maybe someone on the list has a better idea. I've seen a ton of clever 
> solutions pop up here over the years.
> 
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Donald Sebastian
> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
> 
> Jack,
> 
> Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option.
> 
> The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one 
> way motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to 
> lift would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift 
> cannot accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane 
> rental, lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several 
> thousand just in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Donald
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line such 
>> as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding steel 
>> cables failing without notice.
>> 
>> Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to salt 
>> water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is not an 
>> issue with a centerboard cable.
>> 
>> On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had served 
>> as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the (simple) job 
>> for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or deterioration 
>> at all.
>> 
>> The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end, 
>> then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the new 
>> cable to the old one and crank it up.
>> 
>> If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a 
>> two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the 
>> job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the 
>> Amsteel Blue.
>> 
>> Jack Brennan
>> Former C 25
>> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
>> Tierra Verde, Fl.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Donald Sebastian
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
>> 
>> Paul,
>> 
>> Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
>> thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual 
>> line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop 
>> but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul through the hole.
>> 
>> Thanks again.
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years 
>>> ago. I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They 
>>> had an eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and 
>>> attached with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the 
>>> eye on the deck end.
>>> 
>>> When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach 
>>> up and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just 
>>> about worse thru.
>>> 
>>> Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts 
>>> sa...@southshoreyachts.com, or try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
>>> Sebastian via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Donald Sebastian 
>>> Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
>>> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
>>> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
>>> on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that 
>>> the cable attaches to has broken.
>>> 
>>> I have a few questions:
>>> 
>>> 1.  

Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Donald:

It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable 
to the new.


When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater? 
I dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the 
connector is bulky, it may get hung up while going through a sheave.


Maybe someone on the list has a better idea. I've seen a ton of clever 
solutions pop up here over the years.



Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

-Original Message- 
From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Jack,

Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option.

The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one 
way motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to 
lift would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift 
cannot accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane 
rental, lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several 
thousand just in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.


Thanks,

Donald












On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
 wrote:


One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line 
such as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding 
steel cables failing without notice.


Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to 
salt water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is 
not an issue with a centerboard cable.


On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had 
served as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the 
(simple) job for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or 
deterioration at all.


The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end, 
then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the 
new cable to the old one and crank it up.


If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a 
two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the 
job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the 
Amsteel Blue.


Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





-Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Paul,

Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the 
actual line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no 
longer a loop but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul 
through the hole.


Thanks again.

Donald






On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years 
ago. I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They 
had an eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and 
attached with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make 
the eye on the deck end.


When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach 
up and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just 
about worse thru.


Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts 
sa...@southshoreyachts.com, or try calling (works better) 
tel:905-468-4340



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
Sebastian via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian 
Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Hello all,

I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin 
that the cable attaches to has broken.


I have a few questions:

1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great 
option to pull locally without demasting.
2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the 
keel from droppiing too far?
3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?


Thanks,

Donald

Louisville, KY


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 

Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Jack,

Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option. 

The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one way 
motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to lift 
would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift cannot 
accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane rental, 
lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several thousand just 
in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.

Thanks,

Donald












> On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line such 
> as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding steel 
> cables failing without notice.
> 
> Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to salt 
> water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is not an 
> issue with a centerboard cable.
> 
> On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had served 
> as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the (simple) job 
> for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or deterioration 
> at all.
> 
> The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end, 
> then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the new 
> cable to the old one and crank it up.
> 
> If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a 
> two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the 
> job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the 
> Amsteel Blue.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Donald Sebastian
> Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
> 
> Paul,
> 
> Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
> thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual 
> line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop 
> but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul through the hole.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Donald
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years ago. 
>> I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They had an 
>> eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and attached 
>> with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the eye on the 
>> deck end.
>> 
>> When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach up 
>> and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just about 
>> worse thru.
>> 
>> Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts sa...@southshoreyachts.com, 
>> or try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
>> Sebastian via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Donald Sebastian 
>> Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
>> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
>> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
>> on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that 
>> the cable attaches to has broken.
>> 
>> I have a few questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great 
>> option to pull locally without demasting.
>> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
>> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the 
>> keel from droppiing too far?
>> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
>> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> Louisville, KY
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is 

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[Sander van der Moolen via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

 

Thanks, that’s valuable info. 

>From what I read, it appears that the 30 E was built in Germany (the article 
>speaks of issues due to rising DM). 

No idea if that makes a difference in build quality or if that difference is 
better or worse. Another reason to have a thorough survey done.

 

Sander

 

Van: Rick Taillieu [mailto:rtaill...@eastlink.ca] 
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 19:45
Aan: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

The Canadian Yachting article on C history on the Photo Album site 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/archive/cnchistory/c2c.htm ,

says that the 30E was a “europeanized” version of C 29 mk1.

Any issues with the 29 mk1 would probably apply to the 30E as well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

  _  

From: "sander via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "sander"  >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

EDIT – Turned out there was a reason his crew made themselves scarce – If they 
had checked the batteries to know they were bad, they knew about the leaks! 
Hmm- good time to find something else to do……….

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 3:29 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts


Hi Joe,

Yea but, the right thing to do is, when you realize the condition is far more 
difficult to address, is call the owner and keep them in the loop.  If the boat 
is sitting in the yard and accessible, there is no reason not to go assess the 
condition.  I mean, I'd never have given an estimate on a plumbing job without 
having gone to look.  Then if something gets uncovered during the project you 
let the owner know what you've found immediatly and make them a part of the 
decision making.

If you had gone and looked at the guys battery compartment ahead of time, would 
you have been able to see that there would be extra work?

Like I said those guys at my last Marina did exactly that.  i ask if if they 
would quote something, I'd get a response that he would go look at it and he 
would give a quick rundown of his observation and work up a number with, maybe, 
some note about something he thought might give some trouble.  Oh and he 
torqued my keel bolts on the Viking no charge!  LOL

I'd still be there but, they said they weren't comfortable pulling the stick 
with the furling boom track on the back of the mast...

Danny

On 6/12/2017 11:35 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
The first time I needed to tighten my keelbolts, Port Annapolis gave me a big 
socket wrench and said have at it - $0.00 ☺ 5 hours seems 4 too high just to 
tighten a few bolts!
That said, and having once been in the business, estimating jobs on boats is 
incredibly hard to do. Imagine all the times the “5 minute job” involved 
snapping corroded bolts, wire that crumbles in your hand, etc. etc.. We once 
had a job to swap batteries out on a motoryacht. How hard could that be? Old 
ones out, new ones in, call it an hour or two if I have to drive. It turned out 
to be 6 hours times two people for a 12 hour bill. The old batteries had all 
cracked, there was acid everywhere, and the batteries were located outboard of 
the engines with fingertip access for 8D batteries. The owner was irate until I 
offered to put the old batteries and acid back in place. I told him if he could 
recruit a friend and change the batteries out faster than we did I would give 
him the new batteries for FREE and no labor either. I think showing him the 
acid burns on my arms helped – he paid the bill right then LOL

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:23 AM
To: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 

Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts


well,

I guess if you add in the time the guy took to listen to the request, then, the 
time it took to find the guy to do the job and tell him about it, and then the 
time it took to go get the tools and go to the boat and climb on board, take a 
nap, then tighten the bolts and fill out the time slip, I guess it could go 5 
hours...

The yard I'm at now seems unwilling to give prices for projects.  They just 
want your work at time and material.  so, there is no risk on their part and no 
pressure on their guys to work efficiently.  I consider this a DIY yard now.  
You know, if they didn't charge the full rate for everyone the pricing might be 
a bit more fair but, they want full rate on anything they do.  I mean, 
obviously, they don't need the work or, they would be better at pricing.  I 
know in construction, when the pricing does not make any sense, the contractor 
doesn't really want your work but, will take it if the reward is high enough.

I asked for a price recently on touching up bottom paint and all I got was, 
"yes, we do that for you..."  No price, no estimate, no thanks!

Here is the amazing thing to me.  boats are a true luxury, no one NEEDS a boat. 
 Most of us have limited budgets to spend on them and (at least me Lately!) 
wonder if it is even worth it, financially, to own a boat.  Given the the short 
season around here, the monthly cost is pretty high.  Then, you have these boat 
service places that just want to pry as much from your hands as possible.

I have to say, I really miss FL Tipps in westport, ma.  We had some issues but, 
they did run things like a real service company.  Accurate quotes that they 
stood by.  Discounts for scheduling early for winter work.  Fair pricing on 
time and material work.  No labor padding.  When you store there, they don't 
charge for moving your boat, they don;t charge for moving your mast 

Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Keep in mind this boat was over 100 feet long and the owner was in a hurry to 
be going again ;)

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 3:29 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts


Hi Joe,

Yea but, the right thing to do is, when you realize the condition is far more 
difficult to address, is call the owner and keep them in the loop.  If the boat 
is sitting in the yard and accessible, there is no reason not to go assess the 
condition.  I mean, I'd never have given an estimate on a plumbing job without 
having gone to look.  Then if something gets uncovered during the project you 
let the owner know what you've found immediatly and make them a part of the 
decision making.

If you had gone and looked at the guys battery compartment ahead of time, would 
you have been able to see that there would be extra work?

Like I said those guys at my last Marina did exactly that.  i ask if if they 
would quote something, I'd get a response that he would go look at it and he 
would give a quick rundown of his observation and work up a number with, maybe, 
some note about something he thought might give some trouble.  Oh and he 
torqued my keel bolts on the Viking no charge!  LOL

I'd still be there but, they said they weren't comfortable pulling the stick 
with the furling boom track on the back of the mast...

Danny

On 6/12/2017 11:35 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
The first time I needed to tighten my keelbolts, Port Annapolis gave me a big 
socket wrench and said have at it - $0.00 ☺ 5 hours seems 4 too high just to 
tighten a few bolts!
That said, and having once been in the business, estimating jobs on boats is 
incredibly hard to do. Imagine all the times the “5 minute job” involved 
snapping corroded bolts, wire that crumbles in your hand, etc. etc.. We once 
had a job to swap batteries out on a motoryacht. How hard could that be? Old 
ones out, new ones in, call it an hour or two if I have to drive. It turned out 
to be 6 hours times two people for a 12 hour bill. The old batteries had all 
cracked, there was acid everywhere, and the batteries were located outboard of 
the engines with fingertip access for 8D batteries. The owner was irate until I 
offered to put the old batteries and acid back in place. I told him if he could 
recruit a friend and change the batteries out faster than we did I would give 
him the new batteries for FREE and no labor either. I think showing him the 
acid burns on my arms helped – he paid the bill right then LOL

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:23 AM
To: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 

Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts


well,

I guess if you add in the time the guy took to listen to the request, then, the 
time it took to find the guy to do the job and tell him about it, and then the 
time it took to go get the tools and go to the boat and climb on board, take a 
nap, then tighten the bolts and fill out the time slip, I guess it could go 5 
hours...

The yard I'm at now seems unwilling to give prices for projects.  They just 
want your work at time and material.  so, there is no risk on their part and no 
pressure on their guys to work efficiently.  I consider this a DIY yard now.  
You know, if they didn't charge the full rate for everyone the pricing might be 
a bit more fair but, they want full rate on anything they do.  I mean, 
obviously, they don't need the work or, they would be better at pricing.  I 
know in construction, when the pricing does not make any sense, the contractor 
doesn't really want your work but, will take it if the reward is high enough.

I asked for a price recently on touching up bottom paint and all I got was, 
"yes, we do that for you..."  No price, no estimate, no thanks!

Here is the amazing thing to me.  boats are a true luxury, no one NEEDS a boat. 
 Most of us have limited budgets to spend on them and (at least me Lately!) 
wonder if it is even worth it, financially, to own a boat.  Given the the short 
season around here, the monthly cost is pretty high.  Then, you have these boat 
service places that just want to pry as much from your hands as possible.

I have to say, I really miss FL Tipps in westport, ma.  We had some issues but, 
they did run things like a real service company.  Accurate quotes that they 
stood by.  Discounts for scheduling early for winter work.  Fair pricing on 
time and material work.  No labor padding.  When you store there, they don't 
charge for moving your boat, they don;t charge for moving your mast so you can 
work on it.  I've actually gotten labor bills for 1 hour or part of an hour.

Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

Yea but, the right thing to do is, when you realize the condition is far 
more difficult to address, is call the owner and keep them in the loop.  
If the boat is sitting in the yard and accessible, there is no reason 
not to go assess the condition.  I mean, I'd never have given an 
estimate on a plumbing job without having gone to look.  Then if 
something gets uncovered during the project you let the owner know what 
you've found immediatly and make them a part of the decision making.


If you had gone and looked at the guys battery compartment ahead of 
time, would you have been able to see that there would be extra work?


Like I said those guys at my last Marina did exactly that.  i ask if if 
they would quote something, I'd get a response that he would go look at 
it and he would give a quick rundown of his observation and work up a 
number with, maybe, some note about something he thought might give some 
trouble.  Oh and he torqued my keel bolts on the Viking no charge!  LOL


I'd still be there but, they said they weren't comfortable pulling the 
stick with the furling boom track on the back of the mast...


Danny


On 6/12/2017 11:35 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


The first time I needed to tighten my keelbolts, Port Annapolis gave 
me a big socket wrench and said have at it - $0.00 J5 hours seems 4 
too high just to tighten a few bolts!


That said, and having once been in the business, estimating jobs on 
boats is incredibly hard to do. Imagine all the times the “5 minute 
job” involved snapping corroded bolts, wire that crumbles in your 
hand, etc. etc.. We once had a job to swap batteries out on a 
motoryacht. How hard could that be? Old ones out, new ones in, call it 
an hour or two if I have to drive. It turned out to be 6 hours times 
two people for a 12 hour bill. The old batteries had all cracked, 
there was acid everywhere, and the batteries were located outboard of 
the engines with fingertip access for 8D batteries. The owner was 
irate until I offered to put the old batteries and acid back in place. 
I told him if he could recruit a friend and change the batteries out 
faster than we did I would give him the new batteries for FREE and no 
labor either. I think showing him the acid burns on my arms helped – 
he paid the bill right then LOL


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Danny Haughey via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, June 12, 2017 11:23 AM
*To:* Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Danny Haughey 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

well,

I guess if you add in the time the guy took to listen to the request, 
then, the time it took to find the guy to do the job and tell him 
about it, and then the time it took to go get the tools and go to the 
boat and climb on board, take a nap, then tighten the bolts and fill 
out the time slip, I guess it could go 5 hours...


The yard I'm at now seems unwilling to give prices for projects.  They 
just want your work at time and material.  so, there is no risk on 
their part and no pressure on their guys to work efficiently.  I 
consider this a DIY yard now.  You know, if they didn't charge the 
full rate for everyone the pricing might be a bit more fair but, they 
want full rate on anything they do.  I mean, obviously, they don't 
need the work or, they would be better at pricing.  I know in 
construction, when the pricing does not make any sense, the contractor 
doesn't really want your work but, will take it if the reward is high 
enough.


I asked for a price recently on touching up bottom paint and all I got 
was, "yes, we do that for you..."  No price, no estimate, no thanks!


Here is the amazing thing to me.  boats are a true luxury, no one 
NEEDS a boat.  Most of us have limited budgets to spend on them and 
(at least me Lately!) wonder if it is even worth it, financially, to 
own a boat.  Given the the short season around here, the monthly cost 
is pretty high.  Then, you have these boat service places that just 
want to pry as much from your hands as possible.


I have to say, I really miss FL Tipps in westport, ma.  We had some 
issues but, they did run things like a real service company.  Accurate 
quotes that they stood by.  Discounts for scheduling early for winter 
work.  Fair pricing on time and material work.  No labor padding.  
When you store there, they don't charge for moving your boat, they 
don;t charge for moving your mast so you can work on it.  I've 
actually gotten labor bills for 1 hour or part of an hour.


Where I am now, they charge you for even thinking about your boat it 
seems!


Danny

On 6/12/2017 9:33 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:

Did that include pulling the mast to get at the one under the step?

If not, 5 hours is about 4 hours too long for that job! Just went
through it myself last year.  They might want two guys to do it,
so I would compromise with them and say 

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

If 30E is where a registration number would be, now,, port and starboard, it 
indicates the boat was registered in Ontario originally.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:00 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Well, I don't know the exact measurement of the forward V-berth, but let me put 
it this way.  I'm about 6'3" tall and I just barely fit in the V-berth.  My 
feet can touch the forward bulkhead while my head touches the next one aft.  
And there's not much room forward for both my feet and my wife's feet.  We find 
the most comfortable sleeping arrangement is to convert the dinette, and slide 
out the starboard settee.  I can lay corner-to-corner on the converted dinette 
and have enough room.  Your mileage may vary, depending on the berths in the 
30E and your heights (the 30E appears to have settees on both sides, and a 
fold-down table around the mast.  That's a different interior layout than the 
30-1.)

More pics of Grenadine (from last year) at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTY0VBM2hlT0hveDQ.

Cheers,
Randy


From: "Sander van der Moolen" >
To: "RANDY" >, 
"cnc-list" >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:47:30 AM
Subject: RE: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

Hi Randy,

Thanks for the links and info, very helpful! Love the pictures and your 
detailed project report. Will certainly keep that on hand.
Not sure if the boat has carbon spars, I will check when we go to visit it. She 
sure looks great, that’s what attracted me to the 27 back then too.
And 1.90m headroom in the cabin, I can comfortably stand upright in there! I 
think 15k is very reasonable, especially if she’s in good shape structurally.
I do plan to have a professional survey done.

What is the length of the forward cabin bed, btw? We want a boat which can take 
us on vacation for a week or two (or longer) so a comfy bed is kinda important.

Thanks!
Sander


Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net]
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 17:52
Aan: cnc-list >
CC: sander >
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

That is a good-looking boat Sander.  Does it have carbon spars?  (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures).  Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc.  And a dodger.  And 
spinnaker gear.  In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck.  My 30-1 has tiller steering 
and boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which 
makes for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E).

It's hard to find information on the 30E.  
Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it.  I saw polar 
diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html. 
 Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built.  They seem rare :)

On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM).  I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts.  But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "sander via CnC-List" 
>
To: "cnc-list" >
Cc: "sander" >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

Hi all,

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.
Here is a link to the boat for sale:
http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html
Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

Does anyone of 

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Also I forgot to say, the asking price is about $17,700 given the current euro 
/ dollar exchange rate. If she passes a professional survey I think that's 
reasonably fair given her age and how she's equipped and assuming she looks as 
good close up as in the pictures. I paid about $16,000 for Grenadine including 
a triple-axle 38' trailer. 

One thing you should inspect of course is her sail inventory. And it wasn't 
clear from the listing and pictures whether she has any kind of battery 
charging system (solar, 12V charger from shore power, etc.). 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Sander van der Moolen"  
To: "RANDY" , "cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:47:30 AM 
Subject: RE: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 



Hi Randy, 



Thanks for the links and info, very helpful! Love the pictures and your 
detailed project report. Will certainly keep that on hand. 

Not sure if the boat has carbon spars, I will check when we go to visit it. She 
sure looks great, that’s what attracted me to the 27 back then too. 

And 1.90m headroom in the cabin, I can comfortably stand upright in there! I 
think 15k is very reasonable, especially if she’s in good shape structurally. 

I do plan to have a professional survey done. 



What is the length of the forward cabin bed, btw? We want a boat which can take 
us on vacation for a week or two (or longer) so a comfy bed is kinda important. 



Thanks! 

Sander 






Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net] 
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 17:52 
Aan: cnc-list  
CC: sander  
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 





That is a good-looking boat Sander. Does it have carbon spars? (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures). Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc. And a dodger. And 
spinnaker gear. In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck. My 30-1 has tiller steering and 
boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which makes 
for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E ). 





It's hard to find information on the 30E. Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it. I 
saw polar diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html 
. Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built. They seem rare :) 





On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM ). I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts. But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers. 





Cheers, 


Randy Stafford 


S/V Grenadine 


C 30-1 #7 


Ken Caryl, CO 



- Original Message -



From: "sander via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "cnc-list" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "sander" < san...@vpilot.net > 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM 
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 





Hi all, 





I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe. 





In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-) 





And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way. 


Here is a link to the boat for sale: 


http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html 


Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha. 





Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well. 





Thanks! 


Sander. 





Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. 



___ 





This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 





All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to 

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Well, I don't know the exact measurement of the forward V-berth, but let me put 
it this way. I'm about 6'3" tall and I just barely fit in the V-berth. My feet 
can touch the forward bulkhead while my head touches the next one aft. And 
there's not much room forward for both my feet and my wife's feet. We find the 
most comfortable sleeping arrangement is to convert the dinette, and slide out 
the starboard settee. I can lay corner-to-corner on the converted dinette and 
have enough room. Your mileage may vary, depending on the berths in the 30E and 
your heights (the 30E appears to have settees on both sides, and a fold-down 
table around the mast. That's a different interior layout than the 30-1.) 

More pics of Grenadine (from last year) at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTY0VBM2hlT0hveDQ . 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Sander van der Moolen"  
To: "RANDY" , "cnc-list"  
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:47:30 AM 
Subject: RE: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 



Hi Randy, 



Thanks for the links and info, very helpful! Love the pictures and your 
detailed project report. Will certainly keep that on hand. 

Not sure if the boat has carbon spars, I will check when we go to visit it. She 
sure looks great, that’s what attracted me to the 27 back then too. 

And 1.90m headroom in the cabin, I can comfortably stand upright in there! I 
think 15k is very reasonable, especially if she’s in good shape structurally. 

I do plan to have a professional survey done. 



What is the length of the forward cabin bed, btw? We want a boat which can take 
us on vacation for a week or two (or longer) so a comfy bed is kinda important. 



Thanks! 

Sander 






Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net] 
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 17:52 
Aan: cnc-list  
CC: sander  
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 





That is a good-looking boat Sander. Does it have carbon spars? (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures). Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc. And a dodger. And 
spinnaker gear. In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck. My 30-1 has tiller steering and 
boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which makes 
for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E ). 





It's hard to find information on the 30E. Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it. I 
saw polar diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html 
. Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built. They seem rare :) 





On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM ). I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts. But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers. 





Cheers, 


Randy Stafford 


S/V Grenadine 


C 30-1 #7 


Ken Caryl, CO 



- Original Message -



From: "sander via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "cnc-list" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "sander" < san...@vpilot.net > 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM 
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 





Hi all, 





I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe. 





In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-) 





And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way. 


Here is a link to the boat for sale: 


http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html 


Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha. 





Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well. 





Thanks! 


Sander. 





Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. 



___ 





This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to 

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

The Canadian Yachting article on C history on the Photo Album site 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/archive/cnchistory/c2c.htm ,

says that the 30E was a “europeanized” version of C 29 mk1.

Any issues with the 29 mk1 would probably apply to the 30E as well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

  _  

From: "sander via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "sander" 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Paul,

Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the actual 
line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no longer a loop 
but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul through the hole.

Thanks again.

Donald






> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years ago. 
> I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They had an 
> eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and attached 
> with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the eye on the 
> deck end. 
> 
> When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach up 
> and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just about 
> worse thru. 
> 
> Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts sa...@southshoreyachts.com, 
> or try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
> Sebastian via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Donald Sebastian 
> Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. 
>My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the 
> cable attaches to has broken.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
> to pull locally without demasting.
> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel 
> from droppiing too far?
> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Donald
> 
> Louisville, KY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Mike,

Any help or information would be very much appreciated.Pictures would be 
great.   Trying to plan out as much as possible.

Thanks,

Donald
donaldsebast...@me.com



> On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:23 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Donald
> 
> This happened to me in the Bahamas, fortunately my board was jammed in the up 
> position.  If my board was down I would be concerned it could get damaged.  I 
> believe the cable can be replaced while the boat is in the water.  Your 
> biggest challenge will be getting the cable end made that's attached to the 
> board.  I've been told they are not available so I had a machine shop make on 
> for me.  I could get you the dimensions but it may not be the same.  Also, I 
> could give you a picture of my board as I have yet to do the reinstall.  
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> www.persuasion37.com
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
>> On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
>> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
>> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
>> on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that 
>> the cable attaches to has broken.
>> 
>> I have a few questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great 
>> option to pull locally without demasting.
>> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
>> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the 
>> keel from droppiing too far?
>> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
>> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> 
>> Donald
>> 
>> Louisville, KY
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[Sander van der Moolen via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

 

Thanks for the links and info, very helpful! Love the pictures and your 
detailed project report. Will certainly keep that on hand.

Not sure if the boat has carbon spars, I will check when we go to visit it. She 
sure looks great, that’s what attracted me to the 27 back then too.

And 1.90m headroom in the cabin, I can comfortably stand upright in there! I 
think 15k is very reasonable, especially if she’s in good shape structurally.

I do plan to have a professional survey done.

 

What is the length of the forward cabin bed, btw? We want a boat which can take 
us on vacation for a week or two (or longer) so a comfy bed is kinda important.

 

Thanks!

Sander

 

 

Van: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net] 
Verzonden: maandag 12 juni 2017 17:52
Aan: cnc-list 
CC: sander 
Onderwerp: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

That is a good-looking boat Sander.  Does it have carbon spars?  (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures).  Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc.  And a dodger.  And 
spinnaker gear.  In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck.  My 30-1 has tiller steering 
and boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which 
makes for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E).

 

It's hard to find information on the 30E.  Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it.  I 
saw polar diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html. 
 Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built.  They seem rare :)

 

On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM).  I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts.  But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

  _  

From: "sander via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "sander"  >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Selling my C 34

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Damien.  Hope all goes well with your sale.  Where should I ship your ladder? John Read Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App-Original Message-From: cnc-list@cnc-list.comTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: damian.gre...@yahoo.comSent: 2017-06-12 12:01:21 PM Subject: Stus-List Selling my C 34Guys, I’ve put my C 34 on the market to sell. We’re looking to move up in size to a 38. Here’s the listing – with East Coast Yacht Sales in Camden ME.  The asking price is priced to sell, and is reflective of recent transactions for similar vintage C 34s. http://www.ecys.com/boat/1982/c-c/34/1544/ As usual – if you know of anyone who might be interested, please pass it on. Regards, Damian 1982 C 34 GHOSTBass Harbor, Maine Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I torqued the five keel bolts on my 30-1 this spring (four at 350 ft-lbs, one 
at 250) by myself. The actual torquing part took about 15 minutes. Of course, 
the mast was off the boat, and I'd removed all the old bilge plumbing and 
cleaned the bilge. And I had to drive to a local rental place and rent a 650 
ft-lb torque wrench with a four-foot handle and various sockets, adapters, and 
extensions, then drive to return all that crap afterward. If all your bolts 
were already accessible and clear, and the yard already had the torque wrench, 
I'd think a half-hour would be the actual amount of labor. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "PETER OCAMPO"  
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 6:41:00 AM 
Subject: Stus-List C 40 bolts 

Hi guys 

Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts 3 
large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin table 
and covers cleared water from bildge 

just wondering what the avg time charged or if it takes multiple guys to do 
this job 

Peter 
Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin 

Sent from my iPhone 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Selling my C 34

[Damian Greene via CnC-List]

Guys,

I’ve put my C 34 on the market to sell. We’re looking to move up in size to a 
38.

Here’s the listing – with East Coast Yacht Sales in Camden ME.  The asking 
price is priced to sell, and is reflective of recent transactions for similar 
vintage C 34s.

http://www.ecys.com/boat/1982/c-c/34/1544/

As usual – if you know of anyone who might be interested, please pass it on.

Regards,

Damian

1982 C 34 GHOST
Bass Harbor, Maine

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Fascinating that the 30E from 1980 looks so much like the US 30-2 from the late 
‘80’s. Prototype?

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY ; sander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

That is a good-looking boat Sander.  Does it have carbon spars?  (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures).  Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc.  And a dodger.  And 
spinnaker gear.  In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck.  My 30-1 has tiller steering 
and boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which 
makes for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E).

 

It's hard to find information on the 30E.  Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it.  I 
saw polar diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html. 
 Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built.  They seem rare :)

 

On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM).  I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts.  But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

  _  

From: "sander via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "sander"  >
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

That is a good-looking boat Sander. Does it have carbon spars? (I can't read 
Dutch, but it kind of looks like it in the pictures). Nice that it has tiller 
steering and all lines led aft with deck organizers etc. And a dodger. And 
spinnaker gear. In the pictures the mainsheet is removed but I can see the 
traveler car track just aft of the bridge deck. My 30-1 has tiller steering and 
boom-end sheeting with the traveler at the aft end of the cockpit, which makes 
for a very roomy cockpit (pics at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E ). 

It's hard to find information on the 30E. Sailboatdata.com doesn't have it. I 
saw polar diagrams for a 30E once - see 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2016-September/088575.html 
. Apparently they were built from 1977-1982 but I don't know how many were 
built. They seem rare :) 

On my 30-1, built eight years before the boat you're looking at, the biggest 
trouble spot was the mast step supports - I had to rebuild them (see 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM ). I also had 
some water ingress at the chainplate cutouts. But a professional survey, and a 
careful inspection following Don Casey's book, didn't find any deal-breakers or 
showstoppers. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "sander via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "sander"  
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM 
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe? 

Hi all, 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe. 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-) 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way. 
Here is a link to the boat for sale: 
http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html 
Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha. 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well. 

Thanks! 
Sander. 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone. 

___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The first time I needed to tighten my keelbolts, Port Annapolis gave me a big 
socket wrench and said have at it - $0.00 ☺ 5 hours seems 4 too high just to 
tighten a few bolts!
That said, and having once been in the business, estimating jobs on boats is 
incredibly hard to do. Imagine all the times the “5 minute job” involved 
snapping corroded bolts, wire that crumbles in your hand, etc. etc.. We once 
had a job to swap batteries out on a motoryacht. How hard could that be? Old 
ones out, new ones in, call it an hour or two if I have to drive. It turned out 
to be 6 hours times two people for a 12 hour bill. The old batteries had all 
cracked, there was acid everywhere, and the batteries were located outboard of 
the engines with fingertip access for 8D batteries. The owner was irate until I 
offered to put the old batteries and acid back in place. I told him if he could 
recruit a friend and change the batteries out faster than we did I would give 
him the new batteries for FREE and no labor either. I think showing him the 
acid burns on my arms helped – he paid the bill right then LOL

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 11:23 AM
To: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts


well,

I guess if you add in the time the guy took to listen to the request, then, the 
time it took to find the guy to do the job and tell him about it, and then the 
time it took to go get the tools and go to the boat and climb on board, take a 
nap, then tighten the bolts and fill out the time slip, I guess it could go 5 
hours...

The yard I'm at now seems unwilling to give prices for projects.  They just 
want your work at time and material.  so, there is no risk on their part and no 
pressure on their guys to work efficiently.  I consider this a DIY yard now.  
You know, if they didn't charge the full rate for everyone the pricing might be 
a bit more fair but, they want full rate on anything they do.  I mean, 
obviously, they don't need the work or, they would be better at pricing.  I 
know in construction, when the pricing does not make any sense, the contractor 
doesn't really want your work but, will take it if the reward is high enough.

I asked for a price recently on touching up bottom paint and all I got was, 
"yes, we do that for you..."  No price, no estimate, no thanks!

Here is the amazing thing to me.  boats are a true luxury, no one NEEDS a boat. 
 Most of us have limited budgets to spend on them and (at least me Lately!) 
wonder if it is even worth it, financially, to own a boat.  Given the the short 
season around here, the monthly cost is pretty high.  Then, you have these boat 
service places that just want to pry as much from your hands as possible.

I have to say, I really miss FL Tipps in westport, ma.  We had some issues but, 
they did run things like a real service company.  Accurate quotes that they 
stood by.  Discounts for scheduling early for winter work.  Fair pricing on 
time and material work.  No labor padding.  When you store there, they don't 
charge for moving your boat, they don;t charge for moving your mast so you can 
work on it.  I've actually gotten labor bills for 1 hour or part of an hour.

Where I am now, they charge you for even thinking about your boat it seems!

Danny

On 6/12/2017 9:33 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
Did that include pulling the mast to get at the one under the step?
If not, 5 hours is about 4 hours too long for that job! Just went through it 
myself last year.  They might want two guys to do it, so I would compromise 
with them and say you'll pay for two hours. Otherwise I would be shouting from 
the rooftops and raising holy hell with them. Five hours to tighten 5 nuts?! 
Tell them you'll ensure they get lots of publicity for their expertise in 
fleecing their customers. Then get the heck out of that place!
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 8:41 AM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi guys

Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts  3 
large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin  table 
and covers  cleared water from bildge

just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple guys to do 
this job

Peter
Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin

Sent from my iPhone
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260




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Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

well,

I guess if you add in the time the guy took to listen to the request, 
then, the time it took to find the guy to do the job and tell him about 
it, and then the time it took to go get the tools and go to the boat and 
climb on board, take a nap, then tighten the bolts and fill out the time 
slip, I guess it could go 5 hours...


The yard I'm at now seems unwilling to give prices for projects. They 
just want your work at time and material.  so, there is no risk on their 
part and no pressure on their guys to work efficiently.  I consider this 
a DIY yard now.  You know, if they didn't charge the full rate for 
everyone the pricing might be a bit more fair but, they want full rate 
on anything they do.  I mean, obviously, they don't need the work or, 
they would be better at pricing.  I know in construction, when the 
pricing does not make any sense, the contractor doesn't really want your 
work but, will take it if the reward is high enough.


I asked for a price recently on touching up bottom paint and all I got 
was, "yes, we do that for you..."  No price, no estimate, no thanks!


Here is the amazing thing to me.  boats are a true luxury, no one NEEDS 
a boat.  Most of us have limited budgets to spend on them and (at least 
me Lately!) wonder if it is even worth it, financially, to own a boat.  
Given the the short season around here, the monthly cost is pretty 
high.  Then, you have these boat service places that just want to pry as 
much from your hands as possible.


I have to say, I really miss FL Tipps in westport, ma.  We had some 
issues but, they did run things like a real service company. Accurate 
quotes that they stood by.  Discounts for scheduling early for winter 
work.  Fair pricing on time and material work. No labor padding.  When 
you store there, they don't charge for moving your boat, they don;t 
charge for moving your mast so you can work on it.  I've actually gotten 
labor bills for 1 hour or part of an hour.


Where I am now, they charge you for even thinking about your boat it seems!

Danny


On 6/12/2017 9:33 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:

Did that include pulling the mast to get at the one under the step?
If not, 5 hours is about 4 hours too long for that job! Just went 
through it myself last year.  They might want two guys to do it, so I 
would compromise with them and say you'll pay for two hours. Otherwise 
I would be shouting from the rooftops and raising holy hell with them. 
Five hours to tighten 5 nuts?! Tell them you'll ensure they get lots 
of publicity for their expertise in fleecing their customers. Then get 
the heck out of that place!


Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 8:41 AM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hi guys

Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my
5 bolts  3 large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved
wires removed cabin  table and covers  cleared water from bildge

just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple
guys to do this job

Peter
Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin

Sent from my iPhone
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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


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Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

Thanks for the responses

Mast was in nothing  was cleaned or changed from when I could see appears only 
nuts were  torqued and from invoice only said torqued 

And yes out of yard where boat was stored  actually talking to my friends up 
here in Maine they told me normally boats aren't launched until all bills paid 
so I think I will be able to negotiate the fees I think are out of line 

For the future I have already bought the sockets and extensions for when. I 
have to retorque at napa  sockets and extension were about 60 bucks in all and 
from the list before will order the torque device from amazon 

Thanks

Peter



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2017, at 10:12 AM, Ron Ricci  wrote:
> 
> Peter,
> 
> I just had my keel bolts torqued by my yard.  Haven't got the invoice yet.
> Some of them required 600 ft-lbs.  For that, it took two guys even with a
> torque multiplier.  All nuts and washers were removed and bolt threads were
> cleaned.  Some nuts required heat and impact tool to remove.  Old 5200 under
> washers was removed and re-bedded.  (Kind of wish I had told them to use
> butyl rubber.)  I have 8 bolts including two under mast step.  
> 
> If I get a bill for 8 hours for 8 bolts, given my circumstances, I'd be as
> happy as one could be.  I thought of doing this project myself and had some
> great guidance from other listers but ran out of time.
> 
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER
> OCAMPO via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:41 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: PETER OCAMPO
> Subject: Stus-List C 40 bolts
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts
> 3 large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin
> table and covers  cleared water from bildge 
> 
> just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple guys to do
> this job
> 
> Peter
> Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 

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Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Peter,

I just had my keel bolts torqued by my yard.  Haven't got the invoice yet.
Some of them required 600 ft-lbs.  For that, it took two guys even with a
torque multiplier.  All nuts and washers were removed and bolt threads were
cleaned.  Some nuts required heat and impact tool to remove.  Old 5200 under
washers was removed and re-bedded.  (Kind of wish I had told them to use
butyl rubber.)  I have 8 bolts including two under mast step.  

If I get a bill for 8 hours for 8 bolts, given my circumstances, I'd be as
happy as one could be.  I thought of doing this project myself and had some
great guidance from other listers but ran out of time.

Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER
OCAMPO via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO
Subject: Stus-List C 40 bolts

Hi guys

Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts
3 large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin
table and covers  cleared water from bildge 

just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple guys to do
this job

Peter
Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin 

Sent from my iPhone
___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Did that include pulling the mast to get at the one under the step?
If not, 5 hours is about 4 hours too long for that job! Just went through
it myself last year.  They might want two guys to do it, so I would
compromise with them and say you'll pay for two hours. Otherwise I would be
shouting from the rooftops and raising holy hell with them. Five hours to
tighten 5 nuts?! Tell them you'll ensure they get lots of publicity for
their expertise in fleecing their customers. Then get the heck out of that
place!

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 8:41 AM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi guys
>
> Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5
> bolts  3 large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed
> cabin  table and covers  cleared water from bildge
>
> just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple guys to
> do this job
>
> Peter
> Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

FYI - old trick to the board up:
Take a line from port to starboard under the boat. Start at the bow and walk 
aft, you should be able to get the board back up and then tie the line off.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charles 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Charles Nelson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

I would not try to sail with the board hanging down supported only by the pin. 
The trunk usually provides resistance to athwart ship forces on the board when 
down in its normal position. If the cable is gone, the board hangs too far down 
and all the sideways force is concentrated on the pin which is not designed for 
it. Motoring would be OK but sailing with an unsupported (sideways) board could 
turn an inconvenience into a disaster, including loss of board and pin!
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. 
>My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the 
> cable attaches to has broken.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
> to pull locally without demasting.
> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel 
> from droppiing too far?
> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Donald
> 
> Louisville, KY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

I would not try to sail with the board hanging down supported only by the pin. 
The trunk usually provides resistance to athwart ship forces on the board when 
down in its normal position. If the cable is gone, the board hangs too far down 
and all the sideways force is concentrated on the pin which is not designed for 
it. Motoring would be OK but sailing with an unsupported (sideways) board could 
turn an inconvenience into a disaster, including loss of board and pin!
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. 
>My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the 
> cable attaches to has broken.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
> to pull locally without demasting.
> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel 
> from droppiing too far?
> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Donald
> 
> Louisville, KY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List C 40 bolts

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

Hi guys

Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts  3 
large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin  table 
and covers  cleared water from bildge 

just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple guys to do 
this job

Peter
Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin 

Sent from my iPhone
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years ago. I 
had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They had an eye 
fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and attached with a 
pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make the eye on the deck end. 

When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach up 
and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just about worse 
thru. 

Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts sa...@southshoreyachts.com, or 
try calling (works better) tel:905-468-4340


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
Sebastian via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian 
Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Hello all,

I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, from 
its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving underneath, the 
keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on.My assumption 
is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the cable attaches to has 
broken.

I have a few questions:

1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
to pull locally without demasting.
2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by sailing 
as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel from 
droppiing too far?
3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, does 
any one have specs on that connection or pictures?

Thanks, 

Donald

Louisville, KY


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Donald

This happened to me in the Bahamas, fortunately my board was jammed in the up 
position.  If my board was down I would be concerned it could get damaged.  I 
believe the cable can be replaced while the boat is in the water.  Your biggest 
challenge will be getting the cable end made that's attached to the board.  
I've been told they are not available so I had a machine shop make on for me.  
I could get you the dimensions but it may not be the same.  Also, I could give 
you a picture of my board as I have yet to do the reinstall.  

Mike
PERSUASION
www.persuasion37.com
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. 
>My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the 
> cable attaches to has broken.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
> to pull locally without demasting.
> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel 
> from droppiing too far?
> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Donald
> 
> Louisville, KY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List set screws

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Eric, 
  Thanks for the reply.  Coupler is definitely not an easy removal as I am in 
the water already...very tight press fit onto shaft and not something I EVER 
want to remove again in the space I have in engine compartment.  That said, I 
can pull the set bolts one at a time and clean them, and maybe get some less 
flammable cleaner into the bolt holes and swab them out..then blue locktite.  I 
don't think these bolts have any markings at all, were supplied by coupler 
manufacturer...the tolerance between their heads and the coupler is so close 
can only get an open box wrench on them...so will apply whatever force I can 
from an 8 inch box wrench lying on my belly, blindly reaching around back side 
of engine, transmission and coupler. ☺
Bill Walker 
Cnc 36
Pentwater, Mi.  

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, June 12, 2017 sender via CnC-List  wrote:

If the coupling is still easily removable, I'd say take it out of the boat and 
clean the threads on it thoroughly with brake cleaner, the jack bolts too, and 
then re-assemble them with lots of blue Locktite 242. Then torque them to the 
correct spec for the type of bolt.


Since the brake cleaning spray makes a lot of flammable vapor, you'd need to 
think of another way to remove grease film from the coupler if it has to stay 
in the boat.  The new coupling will almost certainly have oil residue left over 
from manufacturing when the tap threaded the hole.


When used on clean, clean, clean threads blue Locktite will be stronger than 
the wire method.   Don't use red Locktite, it's considered permanent and you 
may break the bolt trying to take it off.


Look at the head of the bolt.  if it's plain, it's a grade 2, if it has 3 
dashes, it's grade 5. if it has 6 dashes, it's a grade 8.  Go online and get 
the maximum "lubricated" torque value for your size bolt and torque them to the 
exact value.


Eric



On Sun, Jun 11, 2017 at 1:30 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

All,
  I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring.  Shaft is seated in coupler 
and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in shaft..i 
know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts through drilled 
heads so can't come loose.  But, when seated the drilled holes in bolt heads 
are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no room to properly safety 
wire these..
I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety wire, 
BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws instead and 
stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead.
Thoughts..

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


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Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[sander via CnC-List]

Hi all,
I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.
In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)
And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.Here is a link to the boat for 
sale:http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.htmlReally, I don't know why 
c keeps calling me hahaha.
Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.
Thanks!Sander.
Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.___

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Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, from 
its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving underneath, the 
keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on.My assumption 
is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the cable attaches to has 
broken.

I have a few questions:

1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
to pull locally without demasting.
2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by sailing 
as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel from 
droppiing too far?
3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, does 
any one have specs on that connection or pictures?

Thanks, 

Donald

Louisville, KY


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