Re: Stus-List Stair Treads and companion way finishes

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Polyurethane doesn’t seal as well though.  Don’t ask how I ( and my new 
flooring) know.

Neil Andersen
1982 C FoxFire

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of rick bushie via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2019 4:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rick bushie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stair Treads and companion way finishes

I use polyurethane for all interior brightwork. It cures harder. The name brand 
polyurethanes don’t have UV protection, but we are talking about cabin use 
here. I refinished Anchovy’s companionway ladder with big box store poly two 
seasons ago and I see no signs of wear.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1
Tolchester, MD
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Had a look at the 35 mk2 in Victoria, and while it will be a great boat for
someone, we've decided it's just not for us. There is a lot of value in
recent upgrades, but the quality of workmanship is not quite what I'd like
to see, and there is a bit too much complexity in the engine compartment,
with dual alternators, watermaker, etc. Having now been on two 35s, I can
say that it is still a contender on our list though. The owner is motivated
to sell, so if you're interested, I can pass along his contact info.

Thanks!

On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 10:30 AM Shawn Wright  wrote:

> Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
> report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
> viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
> Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
> about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
> job. Will report back...
>
> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more
>> for a boat with recent upgrades, esp if they are the upgrades you’d make
>> anyway.  (The Bimini you’d buy anyway is effectively  free in a used
>> boat).
>> 35-2 was on my shortlist when I bought my 33-2.
>> Vs Toronto area Price seems a bit high (as you’d expect from any seller)
>> but cash is king  he’s seeking reasonable offers.
>> Looks like the boat has already been equipped for the uses you have
>> planned, and that hard dodger may be perfect for what you want, especially
>> if you can steer from there, sitting in the companionway.  (Under power Via
>> autopilot)
>> Curious about the twin furler mod and how the stays are supported.
>> Good luck!
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jan 5, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Condition is everything, and that is not a high price for a reasonably
>> well-equipped boat in good condition, especially in BC where prices are
>> generally higher, most likely due to the absurd cost of housing.
>> >
>> > Steve Thomas
>> > C 27MKIII
>> > C 36
>> >
>> >  Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:
>> > Hello,
>> >
>> > I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
>> > curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
>> > coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
>> > Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
>> >
>> > Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
>> > VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
>> > Watermaker
>> > Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well
>> built).
>> >
>> > The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
>> > https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178
>> >
>> > Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > --
>> > Shawn Wright
>> > shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>


-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stair Treads and companion way finishes

[rick bushie via CnC-List]

I use polyurethane for all interior brightwork.  It cures harder.  The name 
brand polyurethanes don’t have UV protection, but we are talking about cabin 
use here.  I refinished Anchovy’s companionway ladder with big box store poly 
two seasons ago and I see no signs of wear.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 1971 30-1
Tolchester, MD
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the info. Going to look at the boat today, so I will
report back. I was invited on board another '74 35 mk2 yesterday, after
viewing a Catalina (am I allowed to say that here...?) 30 and a CS 27.
Needless to say, I preferred the C, and it just made me more curious
about Callisto. If the work done appears to be well executed and not a hack
job. Will report back...

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:40 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Agree on condition and will add that it’s well Worth paying a bit more for
> a boat with recent upgrades, esp if they are the upgrades you’d make
> anyway.  (The Bimini you’d buy anyway is effectively  free in a used
> boat).
> 35-2 was on my shortlist when I bought my 33-2.
> Vs Toronto area Price seems a bit high (as you’d expect from any seller)
> but cash is king  he’s seeking reasonable offers.
> Looks like the boat has already been equipped for the uses you have
> planned, and that hard dodger may be perfect for what you want, especially
> if you can steer from there, sitting in the companionway.  (Under power Via
> autopilot)
> Curious about the twin furler mod and how the stays are supported.
> Good luck!
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jan 5, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
> >
> >
> > Condition is everything, and that is not a high price for a reasonably
> well-equipped boat in good condition, especially in BC where prices are
> generally higher, most likely due to the absurd cost of housing.
> >
> > Steve Thomas
> > C 27MKIII
> > C 36
> >
> >  Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
> > curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
> > coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
> > Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
> >
> > Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
> > VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
> > Watermaker
> > Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).
> >
> > The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
> > https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178
> >
> > Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > Shawn Wright
> > shawngwri...@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Following up on my note below, I just reviewed an excerpt from my copy of This 
Old Boat (newer addition).  Don Casey is unequivocally in favor of Marelon and 
says he has seen almost no evidence to support the concern about strength 
(aside from a broken handle on one small seacock).  In his view, strength is 
not really an issue, but corrosion-resistance is – so, as he put it, “plastic 
is better.”   

From: Matthew L. Wolford 
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2019 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

Thanks, Josh.  I have no opinion one way or the other aside from what I’ve 
heard and read — which may be pure fiction.  Admittedly, it has been a while 
since I heard negative comments about Marelon.  Perhaps the concern was more 
about the uncertainty of change.


Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2019, at 10:34 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Well Matthew I wouldn't go so far as to say that your cautions are meritless. 
 I just haven't had any trouble with mine.  I understand the aversion to 
"plastic" - just doesn't seen strong enough.  Consider on the other hand how 
narley some of the bronze fittings can look when left to their own devices. 

  Josh 




  On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 9:56 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

There you have it.  I guess the cautions I’ve heard and read about lack 
merit.

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 5:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

For what it is worth, my boat came with Marlon all around.  I've had 
absolutely no trouble at all and strongly recommend.  

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 5:15 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  FWIW, I’m not a big fan of marelon where there is a potential for 
breakage.  I would be reluctant to use marelon seacocks for the cockpit 
scuppers on my boat.  I can envision crawling around in that space (like 
working on the quadrant) and inadvertently breaking a seacock by pushing on it 
with my foot for leverage (without knowing what I’m pushing on). 

  From: sender via CnC-List 
  Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 3:20 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: sender 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

  Thanks to all who responded. 

  I was hoping there would be an abundance of people in a similar 
situation, successfully freeing up the seacocks without too much difficulty.  
There wasn't, so I think I'm going to go the route of replacing with Marelon 
seacocks and hopefully be done with it for good.

  The secondary discussion about the lines crossing, is interesting, but 
I've never noticed any back-up of water through the existing arrangement.  It 
seems to me for the crossed arrangement to work, the windward hull fitting 
would have to be well above the healed waterline to avoid water ingress, which 
means you would't get drainage of any spray when healed.  Am I missing 
something here?

  Thanks again,
  Eric

  On Mon, Dec 31, 2018 at 7:18 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

But by crossing the hoses, you don’t end up wit a situation where the 
scupper and thru-hull are both below the waterline when healed.

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2018 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue 

Agreed that cockpit drains should always be open and functioning 
correctly.  I had one closed for some repair work on my old Ranger 26 and 
decided it would be safe to race the boat with one functioning cockpit drain.  
Worked great as long as we were on the right tack.  We were nervously bailing 
on the other tack several miles offshore.  Never again.

I am curious to hear more about the idea of crossing the hoses.  It 
does not make sense to me as the far side thru-hull would be higher when 
heeled.   

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2018 10:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

I apologize for creating confusion.  For the reasons stated by Andrew 
Burton, DO NOT shut cockpit drains.  Period.  My statement was supposed to be 
that having seacocks open while not in use, or while away from the the boat was 
an invitation for desaster.  A better practice would be to relocate the cockpit 
drains to a location above the waterline which would eliminate the need for 
isolation 

Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh.  I have no opinion one way or the other aside from what I’ve 
heard and read — which may be pure fiction.  Admittedly, it has been a while 
since I heard negative comments about Marelon.  Perhaps the concern was more 
about the uncertainty of change.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 5, 2019, at 10:34 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well Matthew I wouldn't go so far as to say that your cautions are meritless. 
>  I just haven't had any trouble with mine.  I understand the aversion to 
> "plastic" - just doesn't seen strong enough.  Consider on the other hand how 
> narley some of the bronze fittings can look when left to their own devices.
> 
> Josh 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 9:56 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There you have it.  I guess the cautions I’ve heard and read about lack 
>> merit.
>>  
>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 5:22 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Josh Muckley
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>>  
>> For what it is worth, my boat came with Marlon all around.  I've had 
>> absolutely no trouble at all and strongly recommend. 
>>  
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 5:15 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>>   wrote:
>>> FWIW, I’m not a big fan of marelon where there is a potential for breakage. 
>>>  I would be reluctant to use marelon seacocks for the cockpit scuppers on 
>>> my boat.  I can envision crawling around in that space (likeworking on 
>>> the quadrant) and inadvertently breaking a seacock by pushing on it with my 
>>> foot for leverage (without knowing what I’m pushing on).
>>>  
>>> From: sender via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 3:20 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: sender
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>>>  
>>> Thanks to all who responded.
>>>  
>>> I was hoping there would be an abundance of people in a similar situation, 
>>> successfully freeing up the seacocks without too much difficulty.  There 
>>> wasn't, so I think I'm going to go the route of replacing with Marelon 
>>> seacocks and hopefully be done with it for good.
>>>  
>>> The secondary discussion about the lines crossing, is interesting, but I've 
>>> never noticed any back-up of water through the existing arrangement.  It 
>>> seems to me for the crossed arrangement to work, the windward hull fitting 
>>> would have to be well above the healed waterline to avoid water ingress, 
>>> which means you would't get drainage of any spray when healed.  Am I 
>>> missing something here?
>>>  
>>> Thanks again,
>>> Eric
>>>  
 On Mon, Dec 31, 2018 at 7:18 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 But by crossing the hoses, you don’t end up wit a situation where the 
 scupper and thru-hull are both below the waterline when healed.
  
 Neil Andersen
 1982 C 32 FoxFire
 Rock Hall, MD
  
 Neil Andersen
 20691 Jamieson Rd
 Rock Hall, MD 21661
  
 From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. 
 Wolford via CnC-List 
 Sent: Monday, December 31, 2018 10:08 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
  
 Agreed that cockpit drains should always be open and functioning 
 correctly.  I had one closed for some repair work on my old Ranger 26 and 
 decided it would be safe to race the boat with one functioning cockpit 
 drain.  Worked great as long as we were on the right tack.  We were 
 nervously bailing on the other tack several miles offshore.  Never again.
  
 I am curious to hear more about the idea of crossing the hoses.  It does 
 not make sense to me as the far side thru-hull would be higher when 
 heeled.  
  
 From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2018 10:19 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Josh Muckley
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
  
 I apologize for creating confusion.  For the reasons stated by Andrew 
 Burton, DO NOT shut cockpit drains.  Period.  My statement was supposed to 
 be that having seacocks open while not in use, or while away from the the 
 boat was an invitation for desaster.  A better practice would be to 
 relocate the cockpit drains to a location above the waterline which would 
 eliminate the need for isolation valves and the subsequent risk incurred 
 by the necessity of leaving them open.  
  
 I also went on to suggest that in order to keep them above water on all 
 angles of heel that you MAY need to cross the drains port-stbd though 
 depending on the discharge location this may cause the cockpit drains to 
 be lower than the discharge ports and subsequently not drain until the 
 next tack.  A more centralized drain is a better solution.  As mentioned 
 by others a 

Re: Stus-List Colour match question

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

When the hull was painted on our boat I was able to use AwlGrip’s AwlCraft 2000 
Pale Gold (F9145). Big effort and cost for a little project If you are only 
concerned about the cove stripe, then I would second Dennis’ recommendation. I 
used the same 3M product and it lasted for many years. Easy to apply. Also, 
easy to remove...

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jan 6, 2019, at 8:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Many of us have had good luck with 3M Scotchcal striping tape.  I used 3M 
> 73403 5/8 inch metallic gold for the cove stripe on Touche'.  Still looks 
> good after several years.  See:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg 
> 
> 
> Shop around.  Pricing varies online.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 6:55 AM David Morris via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> We want to repaint the cove stripe on our 1975 C 30 MK1. Any suggestions on 
> matching the original colour (e.g. pantone colour spec) and/or what 
> product(s) to use to re-do it?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
> Tel. 613-531-4429  
> email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com 
> Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
> Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/ 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Colour match question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Many of us have had good luck with 3M Scotchcal striping tape. I used 3M
73403 5/8 inch metallic gold for the cove stripe on Touche'. Still looks
good after several years. See:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg

Shop around. Pricing varies online.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 6:55 AM David Morris via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We want to repaint the cove stripe on our 1975 C 30 MK1. Any suggestions
> on matching the original colour (e.g. pantone colour spec) and/or what
> product(s) to use to re-do it?
>
>
>
>
>
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
> Tel. 613-531-4429
> email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada
> Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_8604262458539073562_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Stair Treads and companion way finishes

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Has anyone recently refinished companion way stair treads and teak?  If so
what stood up best?  Has anyone used the fairly New Petit Sea Gold finish?
It has good PR from Petit but I have seen a few reviews indicating it did
not stand up well in exposed locations.  Best recommended finish for cherry
on interior bulkheads and trim?

 

Regards

Rod Stright

C 99 2004

 



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Colour match question

[David Morris via CnC-List]

We want to repaint the cove stripe on our 1975 C 30 MK1. Any suggestions
on matching the original colour (e.g. pantone colour spec) and/or what
product(s) to use to re-do it?

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429  
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I prefer the now 45 year old Groco bronze seacocks on my 35 MKII to
anything plastic. I believe my boat spent the vast majority of it’s life in
salt water. Even though some are located in difficult to access spaces i
have managed to keep them operational once every 5 years for insurance
survey. My surveyor always remarks about the quality of these Groco bonze
seacocks.

On Sun, Jan 6, 2019 at 4:39 AM sender via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Uh oh, tempers can flare when the new F-N bomb comes out
>
> I think Marlon is basically PA6 or PA66 Nylon.  It's become a very common
> material in a lot of adverse applications.  Makita, Milwaukee, Festool,
> Hilti and other heavy duty tool manufacturers use it extensively.  The
> automotive industry now uses it extensively.  I was dismayed a few years
> ago when I first saw a plastic intake manifold, but they've held up fine.
> I see more of it all the time in industrial equipment I work on. It's tough
> stuff.
>
> In my last boat, I had the raw water intake handle break off an old RC
> Marine valve, so I replaced it with the newer Forespar version.  It became
> very stiff to move to the point I was concerned it too would break.  I
> subsequently learned I incorrectly installed it by tightening it too much.
> I was, as Billy Joel said: in a NPT state of mind.  I took the valve out,
> cleaned off the old goo and teflon tape and the re-installed with 4200 to
> just barely snug tight.  After the 4200 set up it was solid.  This same
> valve sprang back to it's original shape and worked fine.
>
> My seacocks are likely stuck due to corrosion.  I wonder about hidden
> corrosion between the seacock and the through hull fitting.  Whether or not
> I'm hooked up to shore power, I seem to chew through zincs.  So for me, the
> Marlon seems to be the best choice.  I can appreciate others like the
> solidness of a bronze fitting.  To each, his own.
>
> Eric
>
> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:35 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Fake news.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>>
>>
>> On Jan 5, 2019, at 6:56 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2019 21:54:56 -0500
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>> Message-ID: <2A8B983B594848238142746DD48CD81C@InternetPC>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> There you have it.  I guess the cautions I?ve heard and read about lack
>> merit.
>>
>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 5:22 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Josh Muckley
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>>
>> For what it is worth, my boat came with Marlon all around.  I've had
>> absolutely no trouble at all and strongly recommend.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 5:15 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>  FWIW, I?m not a big fan of marelon where there is a potential for
>> breakage.  I would be reluctant to use marelon seacocks for the cockpit
>> scuppers on my boat.  I can envision crawling around in that space (like
>> working on the quadrant) and inadvertently breaking a seacock by pushing on
>> it with my foot for leverage (without knowing what I?m pushing on).
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[sender via CnC-List]

Uh oh, tempers can flare when the new F-N bomb comes out

I think Marlon is basically PA6 or PA66 Nylon.  It's become a very common
material in a lot of adverse applications.  Makita, Milwaukee, Festool,
Hilti and other heavy duty tool manufacturers use it extensively.  The
automotive industry now uses it extensively.  I was dismayed a few years
ago when I first saw a plastic intake manifold, but they've held up fine.
I see more of it all the time in industrial equipment I work on. It's tough
stuff.

In my last boat, I had the raw water intake handle break off an old RC
Marine valve, so I replaced it with the newer Forespar version.  It became
very stiff to move to the point I was concerned it too would break.  I
subsequently learned I incorrectly installed it by tightening it too much.
I was, as Billy Joel said: in a NPT state of mind.  I took the valve out,
cleaned off the old goo and teflon tape and the re-installed with 4200 to
just barely snug tight.  After the 4200 set up it was solid.  This same
valve sprang back to it's original shape and worked fine.

My seacocks are likely stuck due to corrosion.  I wonder about hidden
corrosion between the seacock and the through hull fitting.  Whether or not
I'm hooked up to shore power, I seem to chew through zincs.  So for me, the
Marlon seems to be the best choice.  I can appreciate others like the
solidness of a bronze fitting.  To each, his own.

Eric

On Sat, Jan 5, 2019 at 9:35 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fake news.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Jan 5, 2019, at 6:56 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2019 21:54:56 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
> Message-ID: <2A8B983B594848238142746DD48CD81C@InternetPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> There you have it.  I guess the cautions I?ve heard and read about lack
> merit.
>
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2019 5:22 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue
>
> For what it is worth, my boat came with Marlon all around.  I've had
> absolutely no trouble at all and strongly recommend.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 5, 2019, 5:15 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  FWIW, I?m not a big fan of marelon where there is a potential for
> breakage.  I would be reluctant to use marelon seacocks for the cockpit
> scuppers on my boat.  I can envision crawling around in that space (like
> working on the quadrant) and inadvertently breaking a seacock by pushing on
> it with my foot for leverage (without knowing what I?m pushing on).
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray