Stus-List Test

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi I got bounced this morning just trying again...

Danny

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Stus-List 34 wiring

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

The wiring in my Viking was all routed in and during the molding of the deck... 
 The PO routed ALL the new wiring in the Bilge.  That was pretty awesome!
 
I've been tackling new wires as they are needed finding new routes, tucked as 
inconspicuously as possible.  As Ed said, it is an interesting process but the 
results are pretty great.  Old lights shine like they probably did 41 years 
ago...  Someday I may switch out the actual fixtures.
 
I do have most of the wire out of the bilge now though.  I couldn't stand it...
 
Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

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Re: Stus-List Furler Choice

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

That was me that talked about the super furl.

The beauty of the superfurl was the quality for the price and not needing a new 
sail.  I installed the furler and  new slugs on the sail myself myself.

I wouldn't hesitate to use another one on my boat.

I would have to look but, I think I paid about $800 for the one on my 22' o'day 
and installation was free.

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Allen White via CnC-List  
Date: 05/04/2014  10:17 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Furler Choice 
 
With much talk recently of the merits of a furling headsail, I have decided
to bite the bullet, install a new furler and have a new sail made for my 26.
Someone mentioned that they were quite pleased with their Superfurl. I seem
to get a different answer from each person I ask this question:
What is the best choice for a furler on a small boat?

Allen

Allen White
1977 C & C 26



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Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I bought this stuff last year.  It is really great stuff.  I set my handrails, 
traveler and my new hatch with it.  I'll be using it to set the rest of my deck 
hardware as well!

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/98525514

Here is the article about bedding deck hardware.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Hope this helps!

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
To: , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber
Date: Mon, 19 May 2014 07:28:41 -0400

Hi Gary

That would be me.  "Butyl on steroids"  Will get the info later today

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2014 9:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl rubber

Hello all
A few years back I think I read a post from someone who claimed
that they found a place that sold very high quality Butyl rubber.
I have looked all over my records for the website that sold this stuff and I
can't locate it does anyone remember that information? I would like to get
some that isn't the regular stuff like you would get in RV places. High
quality stuff is what I want to buy anyone remember that conversation a few
years back.  Thanks Gary Kolc "Liberty"

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Re: Stus-List The Season Has Finally Begun!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I was down at my boat yesterday and the bottom job and new boot stripe look 
fantastic!!  Lolita look absolutely beautiful!I posted some photos if anyone is 
interested.  You should be able to scroll through and see a bunch. 
http://1drv.ms/1eq8ANe

-- Original Message --
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List The Season Has Finally Begun!
Date: Mon, 19 May 2014 11:11:23 -0400

Listers,
 Happy to announce the Enterprise launched yesterday with the tide. The season 
has begun! Here�s a 3:29 video of the launch, set to some appropriate 
music, of course: http://youtu.be/lV2KBUMb6IY 

All the best, Edd  Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: 
NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log___
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Re: Stus-List The Season Has Finally Begun!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Edd great video...it cracked me up actually with that music and the intro...  
How did you get on board when they were rolling out over the water?  I was 
expecting the whole ride out and down into the liquid but then, BAM, we're 
underway!!  LOL Congrats on the launch.  I'm hoping for a splash this week!!

-- Original Message --
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List The Season Has Finally Begun!
Date: Mon, 19 May 2014 11:11:23 -0400

Listers,
 Happy to announce the Enterprise launched yesterday with the tide. The season 
has begun! Here�s a 3:29 video of the launch, set to some appropriate 
music, of course: http://youtu.be/lV2KBUMb6IY 

All the best, Edd  Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: 
NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log___
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Re: Stus-List Viking 34 (like 33) observations?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Don,

I'm coming up on my 3rd season with my 1973 V33.  She truly is a beautiful 
boat, well built, sails like a dream, handles big wind and waves well really 
and maneuvers like a much smaller boat.  She turns on a dime, backs up well 
with the original Michigan Wheel Blue Dot Folding prop.  Shell move along okay 
in light wind as well.  She is very stiff and all that weight below the water 
line makes her very steady and predictable.  I've only been sailing about 7 or 
8 years (although I grew up on power boats). So, I am not as seasoned a sailor 
as many of the guys here but, the wife and I can handle her pretty well on our 
own and if there is any willing and enthusiastic crew on board she is a picnic 
to sail.

We don't race, We are just weekend day sailors really and maybe do a few 
weekends and maybe a week out over to the islands.  I'm hoping we begin doing 
more and more of that as we get to know the boat and add the creature comforts 
that make that less like camping...LOL (we're getting to old for roughing it 
for very long!)

The downsides are that she really is kind of small for a 34  (or 33 feet-7 
inches to be more precise).  I'm 6 feet tall and have to stoop when below and 
she has a pretty narrow beam but those are the things that make her look the 
way she does and sail the way she does.  The head is really small and there is 
no stand up shower and my boat is pretty bare in amenities.  No shore power, 
but I'm on a mooring so I don't care.  I have an Atomic 4 gas engine that I'm 
relatively happy with, I don't do much motoring so I didn't see the benefit of 
switching to diesel when the old Atomic 4 needed replacing.  There are all 
kinds of parts available for that engine too.  I upgraded to electronic 
ignition, fresh water cooling, added a higher temp thermostat, electric fuel 
pump...

The 34 has more sail area due to a taller rig.  It also has a little different 
interior layout.  I believe the 34 has a 1/4 birth aft.  Mine has some cabinets 
and a cockpit locker there instead.

There is a yahoo group with some pretty smart Viking owners.  It stays quiet 
until someone has a question and then it fires up.  I met one a guy on there 
who help me immeasurably with getting Lolita back in safe working order.  This 
guy has owned his Viking for like 35 years and knows, literally, everything, 
about these boats and is more than happy to share that knowledge.  So, you do 
have that!  

Other than the lack of modern conveniences and some space this an amazing boat, 
shes fast, points really well, handles some pretty gnarly weather conditions 
with ease and can keep moving in pretty light wind.

My wife and I go to boat shows and look at the Hanse, Jenneau and the like and 
think wow, this is so roomy, bright and modern...  But I bet if I had one, I 
would miss the Viking!  This kind of build quality is a thing of the past.

Which boat are you looking at, There aren't that many for sale and I've seen a 
few ads.  If it is the one I'm thinking of, the price drop makes it a steal!

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Wesport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: D Harben via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Stus-List Viking 34 (like 33) observations?
Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 21:13:15 -0400

Hi
 While the V34 is not out of the C&C shop it was off their design tables. I am 
considering purchasing a well built and cared for diesel V34. I am looking for 
props and cons about the design and build. 

Don
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Re: Stus-List First sail

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thanks for the recount mark.  I bet that was a VERY long 30 minutes!

That's why it's called a shakedown cruise!  Glad you sorted it all out!

I cringed a little when you said you poured spring water into the cooling 
system.  I just remember what trap water used to do to my first car.  The 
coolant was always rust red.  I try to keep a gallon of distilled water & 
coolant mix on board after all the leaks I had after installing the fresh water 
system and all the crap SS house clamps failing...  I know that "smoke" from 
below scenario quite well!  

I can totally see you doing doughnuts to roll the head sail!  Awesome!


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List  
Date: 05/26/2014  1:07 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: M Bod ,1 CnC List  
Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail 
 
Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the seacock 
handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the engine with 
pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave the seacock 
open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List  wrote:

OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and 
new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be working 
smoothly.

Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller 
furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good 
(exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to a 
nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. 
Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the 
coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the 
seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!

Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our 
coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low rpm 
and made the run to the cove.

Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not enough 
line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail. Solved 
that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around the 
forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock. Had 
pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I better 
pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.

I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized I 
was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little splash.

Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely 
remember the seacock in the future!

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Hockles in lines - figure eight vs coiling

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

+1 on the figure eight.  My oday 22 did not have a traveler for the main and 
the main sheet was very long.  I started out cooling and it always git all 
jammed up untiltel I readabout and started using the figure eight.  Never 
twisted up again


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 05/26/2014  1:51 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Subject: Stus-List Hockles in lines - figure eight vs coiling 
 
Couple mentions lately about problems with hockles in lines.  Here's a tip.

When you coil a line, you put twists in it.  Yeah, it looks great but will it 
run free?  

By coiling, I mean rolling in that half twist so the line coils.

Instead, try this.  Hold the line in the palm of your left hand with your thumb 
facing the working end, i.e. end towards mast or furler.  Hold the standing end 
in the palm of your right hand with your thumb facing the standing end.  Now, 
without rolling the line, bring your palms together.  The line will form a 
figure eight.  Repeat until the line is done.

A line figure-eighted will run free.  A coiled line may jamb up in a block or 
mast exit.

Here's a similar method:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa06oPNJBys

BTW, against my own advice I coil my furling line but when I go to unfurl the 
genoa, I throw the line down into the cabin so the twists come out well before 
the line gets to the first block.  I have one halyard at the mast.  It gets the 
figure eight treatment.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I have had so many of those rule pumps fail on me, I went to a pair of gusher 
diaphragm pumps, mounted up high and dry, with hoses to the bilge.  I ran a 
rule float switch to one which failed that first year.  Now I have sea choice 
float switch that has been working for 2 seasons, going on 3.  So, I have one 
gusher with an automatic switch that I can turn on manually, a manually 
controlled gusher and a manual whale pump in the cock pit, all installed out of 
the bilge.  I have a goal to keep the bilge as empty as possible.  The PO found 
the bilge a great place for a wire chase

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: M Bod via CnC-List  
Date: 05/26/2014  11:18 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C&C list  
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re:  Bilge Pump Cleaning 
 
Rich,
Thanks for the heads up. I was just online tonight looking at bilge pumps. 
My CS 30 doesn't have an automatic bilge pump, just a manual. 
I feel like I should add an automatic pump, but I wonder what size. 
My boat has a very flat bilge with no 'deep' spots at all and maybe 4" space 
under the floor boards.

What size bilge pump is appropriate? (And will fit)
Suggestions? Would you the the 'integrated electronic' switch or the old 
fashioned float?
And suggestions on installation? I gather I should have it pump out near the 
transom above water level (maybe Y it onto the drain from the manual pump?) Do 
you 'direct wire' it to the batteries and bypass the panel?

Mark

On 26 May 2014 23:34, Rich Knowles via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> My  bilge pump and I had a small altercation this weekend. It’s a 2000 gph 
> PAR unit that I have had on the boat for at least 10 years. It has never 
> given me problems until it recently decided not to pump any water. The motor 
> ran just fine, and I could see the water in the bilge being stirred around, 
> but nothing was being sent overboard. It acted as though it had an airlock 
> with the impeller only partially submerged. 
>
> I dismantled it and found that the small slit that acts as an air vent at the 
> top of the plastic impeller housing  was completely plugged. This prevented 
> any trapped air from escaping from the pump body. Once I cleaned the crud out 
> of the vent slit, it performed as new. Good for another ten years, thank you. 
>
> Just a note to tuck away in case anyone has a similar “failure”. 
>
> Rich Knowles 
> INDIGO LF38 
> Halifax, NS. 
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

As far as sharing a hose for more than one pump...  I can share a story...

My boat started to take on water through the stuffing box.  It was totally my 
fault, I didn't lock down the lock nut as my plan was to adjust the the packing 
nut after running a bit.  The rotation of the shaft totally loosened the 
packing nut while under way.  Anyway, the auto pump wasn't keeping up,  I 
didn't have a screen over the end of the hose and the hose for auto pump got 
plugged.  Luckily, I had the secondary pump with a separate hose and outlet to 
rely on to keep pumping.  If the same had happened I'd still have had the 
manual whale pump to go to on a yet another separate hose and outlet.

You know, the garbage that plugged the hose had actually gone through the 
diaphragm pump and got stuck at an insert coupling.  This is a long run of hose 
and I mis judged the length.  So in a moment of "just get it done for God's 
sake" I used an insert coupling...

Oh and as an aside, I use those shrink tubes with the goo in them.  It oozes 
out when you shrink them and really seals everything up nice.  I used to use 
them when I was doing work on submersible well pumps and the wire connections 
always outlasted the pumps.  Some well water can be very corrosive.  I've seen 
it make sprinkler systems out a copper water piping in homes.  The home I live 
in now was one of them when I bought it...

My vote goes to separate hose and outlet for each pump.

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: dwight via CnC-List 
To: "'Marek Dziedzic'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning
Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 09:42:47 -0300

Marek

I think it is best if the automatic electric bilge pump exits high near the
toe rail and before exiting a complete loop in the hose is a good idea and
as suggested a check valve nearer the bilge can help too, that way when the
pump shuts down all the water remaining in the hose won't flow back down
into the bilge...my manual Whale gusher 10 pump which is mounted high (above
the cockpit sole in the port lazerette exits out the stern of the boat, with
a downhill slope from the pump to the exit point at the stern...I am not
sure I would want both pumps exiting through the same hose and in my case it
would be impractical because of how far the manual pump is located aft of
the bilge...I would have to get the ayutomatic pump hose at least aft of
that pump 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: May 28, 2014 9:22 AM
To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

Mark, if you Y-connect it to the existing bilge pump discharge, don't you 
worry about water going back into the bilge via the other hose?

Now a stupid(?) question to the list: can you connect a bilge pump in series

(i.e. to the same discharge hose, one pump at the bilge to keep it dry, the 
other (larger capacity) above the water line (next to the discharge)).

The question has some merits (for me). I have a 1000 GPM (??) pump located 
in the lazarette pulling the water through a very long hose from the bilge. 
I am thinking about installing a smaller pump in the bilge (like the one 
suggested for Mark). My problem is that if I could avoid, I'd rather not run

15' of a hose through the bellows of the boat (I am not looking forward to 
snaking that hose behind and under all kinds of maze in the aft of the 
boat). If I could just connect the new pump to the existing hose, I would be

set.

I wonder what can go wrong with this kind of installation.

thanks

Marek (in Ottawa)

-Original Message- 
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning


Thanks for all the advice.  This is a great resource (thanks Stu).  I've
read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list
gives quick feedback on how and why.

That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at.  Plus a switch.

I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc.

Any thoughts on the discharge?
I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which
would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave
that seacock open..

The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump
discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that
would need 18'+ of hose.

Mark

-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
> Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid 
> electrical tape.  I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than 
> the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe.  When 
> 

Re: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Wow!!  Congratulations!  that electric motor sounds awesome!DannyLolita1973 
Viking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List ELECTRIC YACHT LAUNCH!
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 04:56:14 -0400


Yesterday, after 7.5 years on the hard, we launched and enjoyed our maiden 
voyage under electric power.
 
Now, I have to clean up the below decks which took the brunt of the load of 
dirt etc. caused by all the glass and deck work but at least we are in the 
water!
 
Now, for a few notes as to how she performed
 
1)  So quiet and smooth at low RPM that you 
don’t even know you are running the engine, until you look out the back 
and see the prop wash swirls.
2)  Below 1000 RPM hardly noticeable
3)  Above 1000 RPM we encountered some 
vibration which we surmised was due to imperfect alignment related as well to 
being on the hard for so long, so we will re-align in a week etc. till this 
goes away.
4)  The stuffing box was adjusted at the 
dock to just tighter than no drips when not turning.  Under power, initially no 
temperature rise noted until about 20 minutes.  As there was  hardly any water 
dripping while turning, I then slowly loosened it to 1 drip per 20 seconds and 
the temperature rise stopped and it was just warm to the touch.  Interestingly 
at the controls which shows time to discharge, after I did this, the time 
number went up, reflecting the loss in resistance.  I then re-locked the nut in 
this position and it ran fine.
5)  Recharging at my club is a bit of a 
challenge because it looks like the 15A it needs is not being delivered at my 
dockside station, unlike the power supply I had at the yard.  My installer 
recommended using a y-splitter to provide a plug in into 2 15A outlets 
combining into my 1 30A inlet cable, what does the list think?
6)  With a new Martec 2 bladed folder, 
backed up nicely, got up to the full rated 1850 RPM easily except of course the 
aforementioned vibration above 1000.
7)  Cockpit conversations at cruise power 
were held in a normal tone of voice….as if we were ghosting….
 
Alex Giannelia
CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
TORONTO, Ontario
 
ag@@airsensing.com
 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I installed the X5 with a p70 head unit last year and installed the flux gate 
in the L shaped settee, low and near the center just aft of the head.I still 
haven't got the stupid thing working however...

-- Original Message --
From: dwight via CnC-List 
To: "'Steven Winks'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 10:14:48 -0300


 
I have my fluxgate compass mounted low in the boat just after of the mast under 
the settee near center line…I have the control computer mounted in a pod 
on the Binnacle guard…same pod also has my gps chartplotter…I 
find these to be good locations on my 35 MKII…I like to have the control 
where I can see rudder angle and heading, a remote control would be useful at 
times but I do not have one and there is little to interfere with the compass 
in that location…mine is an ST 4000 MKII plus, not that much different 
than the newer X5
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven Winks 
via CnC-List
 Sent: June 3, 2014 10:03 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Raymarine X5 auto pilot installation C&C 34+
 
Hi. I am planning to install a Raymarine X5 wheel pilot in my C&C 34+. Does 
anyone have any advice on where best to install the computer and flux gate 
compass?
 
Thanks for any help.
 
Steve Winks 
Corsair VI
1990 C&C 34+
Midland, ON
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Re: Stus-List Helm change

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

My Viking 33 was converted when I bought her.  It seems like it was no small 
job for my boat.  Cutting the fiberglass tube that the rudder shaft ran through 
to attach the quadrant, beefing up the bulkhead to take the pressure of the 
stops and then some fiberglass repair work.  Not that any of that would have 
been all that difficult but, it is in a very tight spot and it is definitely 
not a bolt on type upgrade.Danny

-- Original Message --
From: bstratton via CnC-List 
To: Jerome Tauber , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Helm change
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2014 11:33:45 -0400


Fair question. We will use the boat mostly for cruising. Makes it easier for my 
wife to handle. I personally like the tiller  Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 
S™ III, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
Date:06/09/2014 7:49 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: Chuck S ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Helm change 


Why?  Jerry C&C 27 V. 

Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 9, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

Try this website: http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/wheel_conversion/index.php 
  Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek Magothy River, Md  From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 

To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Friday, June 6, 2014 11:35:38 AM
Subject: Stus-List Helm change
 I am considering buying a 1974 C&C 33 ¾ tonner. It currently sports a tiller 
helm. I am wondering if anyone has any experience or knowledge regarding 
converting the tiller to a wheel?
 
Burt
 

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Stus-List Boatyard repair issues

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 Hi Guys, Okay so,

I was finally going to head out for a sea trial. I had the engine completely 
warmed up, topped off with gas, water and the like.

Just before I was going to pull away from the dock and move out to the mooring. 
She stalled, I always need to use choke to start it back up but, she starts 
right back up.

We shove of, I put her in gear and she's vibrating like crazy. The kid on the 
dock could actually see the rig vibrating...

Now, I'm in the 4 knot current of the Westport River! Awesome! I figured the 
prop didn't open. So, I pop her out of forward and into reverse. Sometimes, 
this will open the folding prop easier. Same vibration... Well I have to do 
something because I'm out there in the mooring field heading for the channel.

I put her back in forward and she stalls...CRAP! I have to come around the helm 
to the control panel on the locker bulkhead to start her again... and I need 
choke to do this. She starts right up. I get back to the helm, put her in gear 
and she starts to move but the engine just dogs... almost to a stall. I put her 
back in neutral and she comes back up in revs. This just goes on and on... I 
keep putting her in gear to keep her moving enough to keep control. We call the 
marina for some help, as we're on the phone, the harbormaster is coming by and 
we wave him over so he comes aside. Just as that is happening one of the yard 
guys is coming by in the work skiff, We wave him over and he come and tows us 
to a free mooring.

As were being towed, I keep her running and flip open the locker to hear the 
engine better and I noticed that in my haste to restart the last time, I never 
returned the choke to running position.

Now, I had the yard replace my broken strut over the winter and I know they 
never did a sea trial. So, I'm thinking they didn't align the engine or, did 
not align the engine properly and that is my vibration problem.

would having the choke fully engaged have been the issue with the engine 
bogging down when I did put her in gear? I'm thinking not but...you never know.

Now, the  Saturday before, while at the mooring and letting the engine run, I 
did slip her into gear at idle in both reverse and forward and I did not notice 
that vibration but, I was not giving her any revs either. This past Saturday I 
spent some time tinkering with the engine and swapped out the carburetor for a 
freshly rebuilt on I had as a spare and I was able to get her idling strong at 
700 RPMs and up and down through some revs with out the fear of stalling.  I'm 
very about that! So, with the engine idling at 700 RPMs (I'm so delighted by 
that..LOL) I slipped her in grear with the admiral at the helm and I went below 
with a flashlight.  I could actually see the stuffing box moving with the 
shaft.  No wonder it vibrates.  I got in the water and everything looked fine 
at the prop. Nothing fouling it and the blades moved freely. I have to say 
though, I'm considering Indigo's 3-blade prop for next year. I think I can 
afford the drag. One, the weighted blades on the prop I have don't stay closed 
anyway unless the prop is in the right position, I'm relatively sure of that, 
and two, I'm not racing anyone. But I'll see how the season goes after I get 
this vibration thing sorted out.  I have been pretty happy with this prop so 
far.
Anyway, as always I greatly appreciate any insights, comments and suggestions.___
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Re: Stus-List C&C 38mkIII

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

go Fred!!!

-- Original Message --
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: Jerome Tauber , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 38mkIII
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:38:49 -0500

How about considering a Landfall 38?  Pretty much the same hull, but only draws 
4�-11� on a longer keel.  Mine points like a witch, too�   
:^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( FINALLY 
getting launched tomorrow�   :^)  
On Jun 19, 2014, at 10:51 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 wrote:I've owned a C&C 24 and 29mkII and now own a 
27mkV.  A friend and I are considering partnering on a 38mkIII.  The 7.5 foot 
draft may be good in the Mariana Trench but not in my harbor. (3 mile Harbor ). 
  Has anyone had any experience with the shoal keel version which I think gives 
the boat a. 6'4" draft ( still problematic).  How does it point.  How many 
points does it gain in PHRF.   Any other comments appreciated.  Jerry 
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

On my O'day 22 I used a cow hitch with one long sheet and the cow hitch in the 
middle.  There was no chance of that ever coming out.

-- Original Message --
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List 
To: pete.shelqu...@comcast.net, CnC 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 13:07:29 -0600


‎I've been doing it like this for 5 or 6 years - never come loose yet. sam 
:-)From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, June 19, 2014 11:17 AMTo: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Pete ShelquistSubject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet 
bowlines hang up on baby stay  
Pete – 
You haven’t had issues with the lazy sheet coming loose?
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly petew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2014 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
 
I've had the same problem.  I started using a "cow hitch" vs. two bowlines and 
it's less likely to get jammed.
My headsail is a 140.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Pete W.
 
Siren Song
'91 C&C30-2
Deltaville, VA
 
> From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 101, Issue 46
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 20:49:53 -0400
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> 1. Re: C&C 38 mk1 vs mk2 (Stevan Plavsa)
> 2. C&C 32 Genoa sheets (John Russo)
> 3. Re: C&C 32 Genoa sheets (Rick Taillieu)
> 4. Re: Boatyard repair issues (Chuck S)
> 5. Re: C&C 32 Genoa sheets (Frank)
> 6. Re: C&C 32 Genoa sheets (John Russo)
> 7. Re: C&C 32 Genoa sheets (Dennis C.)
> 8. Re: What happened 15th 16th June (Chris Price)
> 9. Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay (Kevin Driscoll)
> 10. Boat for sale. . (D Harben)
> 11. Re: Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
> (sam.c.sal...@gmail.com)
> 12. Re: What happened 15th 16th June (Chuck S)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 13:01:07 -0400
> From: Stevan Plavsa 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 38 mk1 vs mk2
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'm not crazy then! If the owners
> themselves don't know the difference I don't feel so bad. Also, it means
> the older boats are worth considering. I'm also reading mixed reports of
> cored vs non-cored hulls. Anyone care to comment on that one?? Mostly I
> read that they are cored all the way down.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 

> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 17:21:47 -0700
> From: Kevin Driscoll 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
> especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> 30-2
> 
> Sent from a mobile device.
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> 
> 
> --
> 

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Re: Stus-List getting seasick

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

My wife swears by ginger.  Ginger candy, ginger snaps, ginger this, ginger 
that.  Always has it on board.

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
Date: 06/24/2014  10:21 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List getting seasick 
 
PS.  I've heard about Ginger but never tried it.  Has anyone ever tried 
Pickled Ginger, like for Sushi?  I always keep that on board, but in 
those rare moments of seasick don't want to experiment. (Especially when 
single handing.)

Wal

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Re: Stus-List C&C 32 FatKat for sale in Swansee Mass

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I don't know anything about this boat but, I used to keep my last boat at the 
Swansea Marina and it is pretty close by if I can help in any way.  I do have 
friend still at the Swansea Marina.  If that is where the boat is, I bet he 
could find some things out about it.

Please note: message attached

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 32 FatKat for sale in Swansee Mass
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 09:29:27 -0400

I have a friend who is considering purchase of a 1983 C&C 32 in Swansee MA 
named FatKat:
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1983/C%26c-32-2725152/MA/United-States
Does anyone know anything about the history of this boat, especially why there 
appears to be hull patches near the bow?  Thanks-Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I'd be concerned on condition.  The great price might be offset by the fact 
that is needs a lot.  42 is a big boat!  You're leaning to sail now?  I'm a big 
fan of starting small and working your way up!  you have a working boat now, 
why not just go with that for a while and learn how to sail?  I started boating 
in a 16 footer and my first sailboat was a 22 footer. Being swamped by people 
in big ass boats because they were oblivious to their surroundings makes me 
believe that all boaters should start in small boats to gain that perspective 
and consideration.  Of course, that's more for power boaters... short rant 
over!  LOL DannyLolitaViking 33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 10:36:10 -0400


Compare the following prices:
New main and job for the 30 and the 42. The 42 sails are going to be at least 
double if not triple.
Replacement engine for the 30 and 42. The A4 that most 30s have can be replaced 
with a used one for $2K or so and a Moyer rebuild is about $6K. I would think 
the 42 isn’t going for less than $15K. 
 
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
 
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 8:50 PM
To: Ryan Beckett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
 
Small boat, small systems. Manual pumps, small lines, small sails, less 
maintenance, smaller slip fees, etc.
 
Big boat, big systems.  Electric pumps, electric shower sump, big expensive 
lines and sails, increased dockage, propane gas systems and solenoids, etc.  
lots of expensive stuff to break and replace. 
 
Small boat, good feel for the water. Fun to sail. Easy to dock. Easy to 
see/feel changes in sail trim.  Dinghies are a blast to sail!
 
Big boat (even a C&C), less feel for the water, harder to dock.  May or may not 
see/feel changes in sail trim. 
 
Summary, smaller boat = all the fun of sailing with less hassle. 
 
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 4, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Ryan Beckett via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hi All,
 
I am a new owner of a 1973 C&C 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand 
of C&C and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat a 
couple months.
 
I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may have 
been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for about the 
same about of money that I have into my 30 footer!
 
What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my impulsiveness 
and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a sport/lifestyle/hobby for 
me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for such a great price is 
tempting!!!
 
Warm Regards,
 
 
Ryan S. Beckett
Partner & Co-Founder
561.301.6337 mobile
 

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Re: Stus-List Gear shift

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4.  I can only comment from my 
experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) 
Comments below in bold type  1.   Is there 
generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I 
have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off 
the ignition key   Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. 2.   This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade 
and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the 
ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? Mine is 
powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. 3.   
 My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power 
boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is 
VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably 
end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just 
curious about these reduction gearing systems.   Mine is the same whether 
the engine is running or not.  It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking 
into gear.  Forward is far more noticeable.  Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe 
and the forward it 1:1 direct drive New oil in both engine and reduction 
gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very 
good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is 
my next step. 85lbs is not bad.  A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs 
over 100lbs I believe. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt 
with during the survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost 
almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to 
take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my 
marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at 
heart.   Head over to the moyer marine forums.  You get loads of great info 
over there!  I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago. 
 Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and 
time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop 
in replacement.  There are still 20,000 of them out there running nicely and 
moyer makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly serviceable.  
DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA ___
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Re: Stus-List Gear shift

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

a good 
number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel 
powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The 
A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel 
counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor 
.. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas.
 
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
 
 
On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is 
it oil pan  can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours 
is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an 
inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power 
to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is 
cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the 
ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of 
course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a 
‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any 
maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass 
the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time  a wire with a couple 
alligator clips would work.
 
I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start 
button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. 
 
I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow 
alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel.
 
My gear shift is fairly easy to move.  I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear 
shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a 
definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so 
that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward 
was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more 
adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some 
motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many.
 
Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft 
coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator 
tensioner recently.
 
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII
 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM
To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift
 
 
Hi,
 
I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4.  I can only comment from my experience 
with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original)
 
Comments below in bold type
 
 
1.   Is there generally an “off” 
or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an 
off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key  
 
Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch.
 
2.   This motor has an electric fuel pump 
upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on 
with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find?
 
Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil.
 
3.My previous experience with inboard 
boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when 
the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like 
it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the 
transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction 
gearing systems.
 
  Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not.  It kind of slips 
into reverse with no clunking into gear.  Forward is far more noticeable.  
Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive
 
New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New 
spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I 
have not started it yet but that is my next step.
 
85lbs is not bad.  A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I 
believe.
 
Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey 
or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the 
boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know 
the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat 
in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart.  
 
Head over to the moyer marine forums.  You get loads of great info over there!  
I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago.  Most people 
advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and time 
consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop in 
replacement.  There are still 20,000 of them out there running nicely and moyer 
makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly serviceable. 
 
Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA
 
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Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone get anything good lately?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I couldn't agree more.  The fees make everyone raise their prices as well.  
Should be FEEbay Danny

-- Original Message --
From: David via CnC-List 
To: CNC CNC 
Subject: Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone get anything good lately?
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 12:00:21 -0400


IMHO...

In the early days (pre-2010) I did well selling (I actually sold a mainsail 
cover with the name "Ayatolla" emblazened on it!) and buying (e.g a re-built #2 
for $50) boat stuff.

The trend I see lately is  that it has become less of a amateur sales tool and 
more of a distribution tool for retailers.   Also the amateur sellers and 
buyers are much more sophisticated and/or have unrealistic expectations of 
pricing.

Consequently I rarely go there anymore but occasionally search if I cant find 
what I want somewhere else.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 11:43:59 -0300
> To: joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List FleaBay scores - anyone get anything good lately?
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> I got a Raytheon ST50 wind instrument that is ok but does not have the 
> true/relative switch that my old dead one had. Saved a bunch, but I'm now 
> going to install new Raymarine gear. It works so much better and does a lot 
> more. The i70 multi and an Itc-5 converter box will allow me to use all my 
> existing transducers and get wind, speed, depth and nab info on the one 
> instrument. A mere zillion bucks. 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax. NS
> 
> > On Jul 10, 2014, at 10:31, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > My knotmeter, and old Standard-Horizon SL1 for the 80s, died some time ago. 
> > The paddlewheel went first and the display was pretty bad too. I have been 
> > searching for YEARS for a replacement and never found one. I managed to 
> > find TWO on FleaBay brand new with transducers and got both of them :) I 
> > guess I could have got a newer replacement, but then the thru-hull would be 
> > the wrong size and need replacing and the new ones are a different form 
> > factor and don't fit the old hole. I am not sure I will mess with it, but 
> > the displays can be wired to each other and both display boat speed.
> > My depthfinder is likewise an ancient Standard-Horizon and is slowly dying. 
> > It works fine as far as figuring out how deep it is, but the LCD display is 
> > losing contrast bit by bit. I can only read it by wearing polarized glasses 
> > and turning my head to just the right angle. I managed to get a S-H DS41 on 
> > FleaBay never been used. This fits a standard 2 inch hole and as a bonus 
> > can send NMEA depth out or be configured to repeat NMEA depth in sentences. 
> > So far my plan is run the data to the laptop so I can see actual water 
> > depth on my charts below.
> > I have been getting a bunch of LED bulbs over the past year too and my hit 
> > rate on good ones has been about 75%. Considering how cheap they are there 
> > is little risk to taking a chance. I have one someplace that makes a hash 
> > of the SSB I have to track down and replace.
> > 
> > Joe Della Barba
> > Coquina
> > C&C 35 MK I
> > 
> > ___
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> > 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

the funny thing is that they even left the "stus-list" in the subject.
-- Original Message --
From: Chris Price via CnC-List 
To: "j...@dellabarba.com" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 07:05:18 -0500


Funny, same thing happened to a friend of mine in Singapore. Same hotel,too!

Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 11, 2014, at 6:48 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I suggest you use some of the gold your cousin the prince has in Nigeria to pay 
the bill J
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JOHN D IRVIN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 7:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin
 
I hope you get this on time, I made a trip to Kiev, Ukraine and had my bag 
stolen from me with my passport and personal effects therein. The embassy has 
just issued me a temporary passport but I have to pay for a ticket and settle 
my hotel bills with the Manager.I have made contact with my bank but it would 
take me 3-5 working days to access funds in my account, the bad news is my 
flight will be leaving very soon but i am having problems settling the hotel 
bills and the hotel manager won't let me leave until i settle the bills, I need 
your help/LOAN financially and i promise to make the refund once i get back 
home, you are my last resort and hope, Please let me know if i can count on you 
and i need you to keep checking your email because it's the only way i can 
reach you.

Thanks,
John
 

This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active. 
 
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Re: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I'd pitch in...

-- Original Message --
From: "Fair, Mike via CnC-List" 
To: Robert Abbott , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 14:31:44 +


If ‘John’ was stuck in Nigeria would you send him money?
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 10:07 AM
 To: john.irv...@hotmail.com; JOHN D IRVIN; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Terrible Ordeal(HELP)!!! John Irvin
 
Which John Irvinn or John Irvin am I talking to?  
 
 John, where are your family and friends?  
 
 And hopefully there is more than one flight out of Kiev.
 
 
 
 
 On 2014/07/11 8:11 AM, JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List wrote:
I hope you get this on time, I made a trip to Kiev, Ukraine and had my bag 
stolen from me with my passport and personal effects therein. The embassy has 
just issued me a temporary passport but I have to pay for a ticket and settle 
my hotel bills with the Manager.I have made contact with my bank but it would 
take me 3-5 working days to access funds in my account, the bad news is my 
flight will be leaving very soon but i am having problems settling the hotel 
bills and the hotel manager won't let me leave until i settle the bills, I need 
your help/LOAN financially and i promise to make the refund once i get back 
home, you are my last resort and hope, Please let me know if i can count on you 
and i need you to keep checking your email because it's the only way i can 
reach you.

 Thanks,
 John
 

This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active. 

 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Geeze skip, I thought you were in New Hampshire...  there I was going on about 
Kittery and such. LOl

 You really are close by!  What Marina are you at?  I may be looking for a new 
home for Lolita...


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
Date: 07/11/2014  12:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Bill Bina - gmail' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? 
 
Got me beat!
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 11:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
 
The issue is not sailing to places across deep water. The issue is where you 
can stop and visit. In the area I outlined, a 7.5 foot draft would eliminate 
probably something like 75% of the nicest anchorages. Maybe more. I have been 
sailing this area for over 50 years. 

Bill Bina


On 7/11/2014 11:38 AM, Burt Stratton wrote:
My boat draws 5.5 feet. I’m not too worried about navigating in Narragansett 
Bay, over to the south side of the Cape or out to Block Island. I will probably 
avoid Woods hole for a number of reasons. Just need to pay attention as always.
 
Usually enough wind to get her well heeled over the thin spots J
 
Skip
Mary Jane
C&C 33 ¾ ton
Portsmouth, RI
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 11:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
 
Between NYC and Newport R.I. (Long Island Sound, Fisher's Island Sound, and 
between the forks of Long Island)  

Bill Bina

 
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Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

Actually every email I get simply shows "C&C List" in the from field.

I do however get both email addresses to populate when I hit reply.

Just an FYI

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA


-- Original Message --
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
To: "Stu" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 10:23:15 -0300

Thank You Stu

Did not realize both sender and list were included in reply.  That is a
great feature

Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field

Mike and others

When an email is sent by a subscriber to the list, the email From Line
contains the sender's name and "via CnC List".  This way you know who is
sending the email and it is coming from the List.

If you reply to the message, the to line will include the original
sender's name plus the CnC List.  That way you can send a reply to just
the sender or the list or both -- just delete who you don't want.

I think it is a good idea to know who is sending the message before I
even read it or the subject line.

Stu


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Re: Stus-List Genoa/Jib Sheet diameter on a 30-1, 7/16 or 1/2"?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Except the hand...


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 07/16/2014  12:31 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Nate Flesness ,CnClist  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Genoa/Jib Sheet diameter on a 30-1, 7/16 or 1/2"? 
 
I use 3/8 VPC on my  35-1.  Dropped down from 7/16 StaSet.

No reason to use 1/2 inch.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 10:56 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Replacing the 135% furling genoa sheets on a 30-1 used only for cruising. Have 
had 1/2". The admiral likes the solid red and green colors available for Samson 
Trophy Braid but for some reason they only offer those color options up to 
7/16". At 1/2" they switch to flecked white. Any experience with the 7/16" 
trophy braid re soft on not so young hands?

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List Maiden Viking Voyage!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ahh Fair winds on your first trip my Viking Brethren!!! You have to join the 
Yahoo Viking group too.  There are a couple of really smart guys there.  One of 
which is a member of this list as well. I think you are the 3rd or fourth V 
33/34 owner on this list. You are in for some fine sailing!!!  She is a real 
pleasure to sail and you have the taller rig! DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport 
Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: D Harben via CnC-List 
To: "Dennis C." , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List USB ports and users
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 21:15:31 -0400


Hi Each of these USB ports may have an always on 12v to 6v transformer inside 
which may setup a little always on draw.  Anyone know? 
Has anyone tried a desperate 6 v battery to feed a bunch of bare non 
transformer ports, like those found on the front of computer desktop boxes?  
Don  getting ready for a maiden trip of new to me Viking 34...
 
On Jul 16, 2014, at 9:09 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I recently installed a Blue Sea 1016 dual usb port at my navstation for 
charging our cellphones.  (The Admiral has an unlimited data plan and Pandora 
on her phone.  We have a stereo that accepts MP3 aux so we use it a lot.)
 Anyway, I was wandering through a discount store and saw usb powered fans for 
cooling laptops.  Curious, I googled usb fans.  There are a LOT of usb powered 
fans out there.  

Look at some of these:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=zg_bs_3015416011_2

 
http://www.amazon.com/Daffodil-UFN01-Switch-Speed-Adjustable/dp/B002C3IOZG/ref=zg_bs_3015416011_12

There are several muffin style fans for those who want to install a fan in 
their companionway hatch boards and hook it up to their batteries via a usb 
port.

I found a usb powered refrigerator that cools one can of soda.
 How about this usb powered aquarium?  
http://www.smarthome.com/95640/Fascinations-FISHQ1-USB-Desktop-Aquarium/p.aspx 
Just opening up some options for the list.  :)

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

That's funny!

Congrats Stu!  Both my mother in law and my mother have had that done recently 
and they are really quite happy with the results!  My mother jokes about not 
recognizing the old woman staring back at her from the mirror!


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
Date: 08/02/2014  6:41 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Ed Dooley' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Eye can see a C&C 
 
Careful. My wife got that done. The look on her face when she saw me for the 
first time was priceless
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2014 12:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Eye can see a C&C
 
Congratulations Stu!
Ed

On Aug 2, 2014, at 9:49 AM, "Stu"  wrote:

Late last year, I was diagnosed as having severe cataracts in both eyes and 
they were 'ripe' for surgery.

After months' of waiting, I have had the cataracts removed from both eyes and 
new lens inserted.  Approximately 30 minutes per surgery and a wait of several 
weeks between each.

Multiple visits to the doctor for follow-ups and gallons of drops in each eye 
-- I think my brain is getting water logged.

But the good thing about it all -- after close to 60 years of wearing glasses, 
I now have better than 20/25 vision in both eyes.  Still need glasses for 
reading and won't get them prescribed for another 4-6 weeks.  At the same time, 
I should have the prescribed glasses restriction removed from my driver's 
license.

I can't believe how beautiful everything looks and the amount of detail that I 
have missed.

If you have cataracts, get them looked after as soon as possible -- you will be 
surprised at how beautiful your C&C really looks.
 
Stu___
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Re: Stus-List eBay Scores!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

thats quite a score!!!congrats!

-- Original Message --
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Stus-List eBay Scores!
Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2014 19:42:52 -0500


Touche' had anodized alloy primaries (Barlow 28's), secondaries (Barlow 26's) 
and cabin top winches (Barient 22's).  The bases for the secondaries are losing 
some of the anodizing.  The alloy primaries had lost some teeth on the inside 
of the drum but had been repaired.
Last year I replaced Touche's alloy Barlow 28 primaries with a pair of chrome 
bronze Barlow 28's.  Found them on Craigslist in Seattle by using claz.org.  
Thanks to Martin D. for helping get them to me.
 Well, the shiny chrome 28's made the other winches look kinda bad.  Been 
looking for more chrome winches.  2 weekends ago I was probing eBay and scored 
a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 26's.  A day later I scored a pair of stainless 
Barient 22's.
 So now Touche' will have all chrome or stainless winches.  All for under 
$1100.  Just have to be patient and keep searching.

Should make the boat look much nicer.  Sweet!  :)

Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA___
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

would you be buying a new outboard?

If you swap that inboard out for a moyer exchange engine and you do the work 
yourself you could have a brand new updated fuel injected engine for about 
$5000.  The moyer exchange engine comes with all the cool little update they 
offer on the site too.  The extended knurled bolts on the water pump, the 
extended mixture screw on the carburetor, the oil change kit, electric fuel 
pump...etc.  And it is a direct swap.  while you have the old one out you could 
run new fuel lines ans repack the stuffing box.

A new 10hp outboard will run you about $3000 all said and done I'd bet.

I did the moyer exchange a 3 years ago.  That thing runs amazing right now.

I had a 10hp outboard on my O'day 22 and it was a bit of a pain to handle 
around the docks.  It becomes another thing that needs your attention while 
trying to maneuver while under power in my opinion.

I bet you would be a lot happier in the long run if you had a good running A4.  
I can't tell you how pleased I am with my engine right now!

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 10:28:46 -0700

My wife and I are beginning to think it may be time to convert our C & C 27, 
which we�ve had for 5 years, to a transom-mounted outboard engine from 
its original (1972) Atomic 4. Any listers have experience with a project like 
this, advice, or suggestions? The boat is sound, of course, as is the rig and 
sails, but the A4 engine is requiring infusions of $$ every year, and is not 
reliable. Every year we�ve been scuppered, and I want reliability 
without the cost of a new inboard� hence the idea to try the outboard 
route. Thoughts?
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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

depending on how much time you have.  i.e. if you were planning on next spring 
for this upgrade.  You could rebuild this thing yourself with the help of the 
Afourians in the Moyer Marine forums.  There is a pretty good thread over there 
recently where a guy did exactly that and it cost him like $800.  He took lots 
of pics and got great advice on the thread.  Between the forums and all the 
parts available, you could totally do it yourself.  These engines are very 
simple flat-heads. I did the exchange because I wanted to go sailing at some 
point and it was May already when i found I needed a new engine.  The PO left 
the raw salt water pump leaking for years and the entire back of the engine was 
a corroded mess.  In saying that, it still ran!!  LOL If you're in fresh water 
I bet that engine will come back nicely with a tear down and rebuild.

-- Original Message --
From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
To: Gary Nylander , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard
Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 15:15:00 -0400


Me three on that. The A4 is overall the best answer.From: Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List
Sent: ‎2014-‎08-‎04 3:07 PM
To: Paul and Darlene Clarke; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard

Looking at all the wonderful $5-7000 suggestions. how bad is your A4? 
Does it need an infusion of the auxiliary stuff, like fuel injection instead 
of the carb and an electronic ignition? Or is the block/head/and so forth 
all history???

I would think if you have been getting nickled and dimed to death for 
years - a big in-place overhaul/update of a reasonably good A4 would be more 
economical than a 10hp outboard.

If you are looking for doing it on the cheap with a used outboard, then you 
will have to put up with a few problems. 1. The behavior in the chop is not 
good - you have a long boat and putting the motor on the back will bounce it 
in and out of the water a bunch I am on a J-24 and a J-80 and they are 
both afflicted with "prop spinning" disease. 2. The torque vs. hp 
situation - a regular outboard in the 10hp range is not built to push 5000 
pounds, it is usually pushing about 1000. The alternative of the high torque 
motor is expensive. 3. The pain in the a.. of having to hang over the stern 
to either raise the motor or tilt it on a little boat like the J-24, it 
is a bother to raise the motor mount (35 pound motor!) and then tilt it. On 
the 80 (26 feet and low transom) we just tilt it - easier. They don't make 
outboards with folding props..

If you want to get somewhat elegant, you could get rid of all the inboard 
stuff and put the outboard in a well - a couple of feet behind the keel and 
in front of the rudder. My friend's Thunderbird (26+ feet - 4500 pounds) has 
that arrangement and the motor slides up into the boat and a little trap 
door fits where it came from. Smooth, and keeps the spinning prop problem at 
a minimum.

I would go for the overhaul.

Gary
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 1:28 PM
Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard


My wife and I are beginning to think it may be time to convert our C & C 27, 
which we’ve had for 5 years, to a transom-mounted outboard engine from 
its 
original (1972) Atomic 4. Any listers have experience with a project like 
this, advice, or suggestions? The boat is sound, of course, as is the rig 
and sails, but the A4 engine is requiring infusions of $$ every year, and is 
not reliable. Every year we’ve been scuppered, and I want reliability 
without the cost of a new inboard… hence the idea to try the outboard 
route. 
Thoughts?
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Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I would add re-wiring the harness and any wires to the coil and engine.  Moyer 
sells a kit for that or you could just buy some marine cable.  I was having 
trouble with my engine stalling and not wanting to re-start for an hour at a 
time.  I really could identify with your stranded situations.  It turned out to 
be a bad wire...

You could really be out of this for far less than you think.  I know the 
feeling of just wanting it fixed.  I was at that point this year because of 
poor idling and blamed the A4 being an old technology.  I replaced the carb 
with a rebuilt I had done when I first bought the boat and before I bought the 
moyer and she run like never before.

It does seem like an electrical issue though.

Honestly, the Moyer swap would not cost $10,000.  The best thing about this old 
technology is how easy they are to work on.  If you take the initiative, remove 
the engine, then replace all hoses and filters and make sure the tank is clean 
or replaced while waiting for the new A4, the $ for $ investment would be very 
close between that and the outboard.  I've heard of people using their boom to 
hoist the engine up onto the dock.  I think these things weigh about 300 - 
350lbs.  Moyer will deliver to the marina and send you a crate to send the old 
one back.

The up side is you gain a huge amount of insights into your boat and engine and 
you would still be able to salvage September and October!!

Or, for far less but you could do the wiring and fuel system with the engine in 
place and see if it fixes the issue.  When the engine does run, does it run 
well?  If so, it isn't the engine, it is some support system, i.e. fuel or 
electrical, of the engine.

In the end you will be a better A4 mechanic than anyone you'll be able to find. 
 

You just don't want to throw the baby out with the bath water.

the 3 things an engine needs to run is good spark, Fuel and compression.  take 
those one step at a time, check the compression.  You can get a cheap 
compression tester from Harbor freight or the like.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=compression+tester

You can check spark the old fashioned way of pulling a spark plug and with the 
wire attached hold it near the block and crank.  This you may have to do again 
during an episode of not wanting to start.

I think you will need to replace the fuel system and clean the tank anyway if 
you were planning on feeding the out board fuel from the existing on board 
tank.  So this you should probably just do.  

Again, most of this is parts changing, out with the old in with the new and 
some peripheral vision during the process will help clean up some questionable 
issues along the way.  The problem with a "profession Marine Mechanic" that I 
have seen is, the cutting of corners and tunnel vision.  They just want to move 
on to the next project and call the current one done and don't tend to address 
adjacent problems while they are "in there."  I do far better work that anyone 
I have EVER hired to do work on my boat.  I have a very recent, long story 
about hiring professional that cost me 6 weeks of this season because they were 
sure they were right and I was wrong.  If they had done the job right over the 
winter and tested their work I'd have been sailing in May...

I think you should step back, take a breath, put your frustration aside, roll 
up you sleeves and re-wire that puppy and re-place all your fuel lines and 
filters and get that tank clean.

How do you get it back running after a non-starting episode?  I've heard about 
floating debris in the tank causing issues, blocking a passage during operation 
and then floating away after a while of non operation.  Or (as in my earlier 
case) as the systems heat up and expand, a faulty wire losing its, connection 
due to expansion and cooling and contraction repaired the conduit so it could 
start again until it warmed and expanded again...

Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
To: "'John Pennie'" , 
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2014 08:03:52 -0400

Paul

If the block is OK and you have good compression and this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream from the separator,
empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then refill with fresh treated
fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the boat. Take your time and
find a good mechanic that has experience with this motor. Can't imagine that
would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less than a refit to an outboard.
Just about any engine can be made to run reliably. Since the advent of
ethanol, fuel has become a persistent problem. Getting rid of the points
will remove the potential for a few problems, too.

Just a suggestion. Good luck!

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List

Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Marek,  "In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed 
boats. Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually 
traced this down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad 
feeling � every time we needed to start the motor I could never say if 
it would start and how long it would last. It takes away from the pleasure of 
sailing." I had this same feeling with my A4 before this season.  Stalling, and 
not idling properly.  I was reluctant to go anywhere and it took my wife's 
persistance to go out.  Every sail was a feeling of "oh crap, whats gunna fail 
this time..."  It was anything but pleasure... This year is VERY different.  
That A4 starts so easily and idles so strong at 700 RPMs...  Now I'm the one 
pushing to go out!___
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

OMG...

If i kept that that kind of accounting foe my boat I'd probably want to shoot 
myself!!!  LOL

There is LOTS of things I conveniently forget that I had to pay for!!!  LOL

Danny
Lolita
1973 Viking 33
Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 17:39:48 +

Read it and weep:   or read 
it and laugh.  Or laugh and weep.  Or drink tequila and don't worry 
about it...

The amazing thing is that I did most of the work myself, and very little 
of it was cosmetic.  That was intentional.  The boat is structurally 
sound enough to survive anything that *I'm* structurally sound enough to 
survive, but if thieves are cruising by in a panga trying to decide 
which boat to break into, they'll probably choose somebody else.

BTW, the boat that started this thread is not a neglected boat in any book.

Wal

you wrote:
> Fair warning:  You'll spend far more then you think refurbishing a
> neglected boat, even buying used stuff,  being creative with eBay, and
> working on it yourself .


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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I basically follow the article on PBase to the 
letter...http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

-- Original Message --
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 08:41:55 -0700


Happy weekend all, 
 
I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with 
butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and 
drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is Git Rot appropriate 
for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for when I have a 
spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the better.
 
Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other “How To” 
sites.
 
Thanks,
Kevin
30-2
PDX 


Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493___
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Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey  
Date: 08/09/2014  5:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Okay so no wind today...

I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After about 
an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  Five 
minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail back to 
our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean as the day 
I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, it wasn't 
plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with fuel.  Would 
this have been enough to starve the engine?

Danny


From my Android phone___
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 swapping the plugs.   they were all black and sooty

I also noticed that the clamp,  around the hose on the in side of the filter 
was loose and the filter spun freely.   the clamp at the inlet of the carb also 
looked lose as it was seeping slightly.

I changed the plugs, I have now changed both filters and tightened the hell out 
of the house clamps.   these were the clamp s  on there from Moyer.

the filter doeses seem to have some restriction but,  nothing major.  I put the 
new one on before I blew through it..

The carb is a fresh rebuild as of a few weeks ago...

I think it may have been a combination of the restricted vent along with the 
loose hose connections.  

Off for a sea trial...fingers crossed


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Brian Morrison  
Date: 08/10/2014  11:51 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Burt Stratton ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful. 

Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump ought 
to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or remove 
the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might want to 
check the operation of your fuel pump.
 
I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar issue. 5 
minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait but won’t run for 
longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be a 
broken electrical feed to my electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long it 
ran without a fuel pump! I guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the job, 
even through two filters.
 
Skip
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
 



 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey  
Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 


Okay so no wind today...
 
I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After about 
an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  Five 
minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail back to 
our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean as the day 
I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, it wasn't 
plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with fuel.  Would 
this have been enough to starve the engine?
 
Danny
 
 
From my Android phone 
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Re: Stus-List Viking 33

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

OMG!

Where are you now?


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
Date: 08/10/2014  5:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Viking 33 
 
Sitting in Cuttyhunk and saw the most beautiful Viking 33--called Lolita--come 
in next to me, but couldn't remember your name in time to call over, Danny. 
She's Looking good!

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I did indeed.  I got it sorted!  I think the fuel blocking the vent hose 
created an air leak on a not to tight house clamp at the carb.  We just ran her 
3 hours out to cuttyhunk!

Andy...let's have a chat if your still about.  We're here until Tuesday!

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Martin DeYoung  
Date: 08/10/2014  7:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Danny Haughey ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Danny,
 
Did you read Russ' post to a different topic:
 
Hi Gang,

I will share a fuel related A4 problem and the satisfactory resolution.

I had a condition where the A4 would quit, most often after slowing down from a 
run of hours. Very annoying when it happens while entering a marina or crowded 
harbour (i.e.: Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound). No starting until cools a 
bit. I went through the coil troubleshooting, no luck.

It turned out to be my BLACK fuel filter housing installed opposite the carb, 
but more importantly the exhaust manifold. It seems the radiant heat from the 
exhaust manifold was hot enough to vapour-lock the fuel supply when I slowed 
down. I made up an aluminum foil shield (in the anchorage at Prideaux Haven) 
and it fixed the fault.

After the cruising season I did a circulating acid clean but still kept the 
heat shield in place.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1 
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 2:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!




 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey  
Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 


Okay so no wind today...

I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After about 
an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  Five 
minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail back to 
our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean as the day 
I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, it wasn't 
plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with fuel.  Would 
this have been enough to starve the engine?

Danny


From my Android phone___
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!


--- Begin Message ---
Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful. 

Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump 
> ought to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or 
> remove the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might 
> want to check the operation of your fuel pump.
>  
> I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar issue. 5 
> minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait but won’t run for 
> longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be 
> a broken electrical feed to my electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long 
> it ran without a fuel pump! I guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the 
> job, even through two filters.
>  
> Skip
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Danny Haughey  
> Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
> Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
> 
> 
> Okay so no wind today...
>  
> I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
> went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After 
> about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  
> Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail 
> back to our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean 
> as the day I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, 
> it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with 
> fuel.  Would this have been enough to starve the engine?
>  
> Danny
>  
>  
> From my Android phone
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-lis

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas. I guess if I'm to 
use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in 5 gallon jugs...

-- Original Message --
From: JOHN D IRVIN 
To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700


Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?

 On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

- Forwarded Message -

Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!


Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful.  Brians/v Rekofa The Blue Whale1979 C&C 34Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison
On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump ought 
to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or remove 
the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might want to 
check the operation of your fuel pump.  I just put my boat in the water for the 
first time and had a similar issue. 5 minutes and then stall. Starts back up 
after a short wait but won’t run for longer than about five minutes. Sort 
of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be a broken electrical feed to my 
electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long it ran without a fuel pump! I 
guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the job, even through two filters.  
Skip  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 


 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey  
Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 

Okay so no wind today... I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and 
fuel, loaded up and away we went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left 
dock, motored away.  After about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  
Stutter ed and stalled.  Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started 
right back up.  We sail back to our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the 
sepertator, looked clean as the day I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the 
vent is plugged...  well, it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and 

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 Petar, I spent a weekend at Cutty two weekends ago.  It was blowing hard 
enough out of east to make outside moorings/anchorage uncomfortable for all by 
large cruising yachts.  In a frontal passage conditions, winds blow E and NE 
and Cuttyhunk is fully exposed and miserable.  There is a sandbar however to 
the NE with a small colony of seals on it.  Nobody goes as the bottom is kelp 
and thought to not hold well.  Very nice and Calm in those conditions  I have 
done it on 3 occasions over the last 2 years and got a good night sleep 
watching other anchored boats rock and roll across the harbor.   And my kid 
loves watching the seals. Thats great information!!  I plan on visiting 
Cuttyhunk a lot now that I've finally made it there!!  In terms of A4 I would 
suggestSpare clean carb ready to go is priceless.  On numerous occasions I 
swapped carbs while under sail.  You can then clean the crappy one and use it 
as a spare.  Your problems sounds more electrical then fuel. Get electronic 
ignition, and an appropriate coil.  You can find them around  100$ or so.  I 
have the Moyer exchange engine with all the bells and whistles.  EI,  & 
electric fuel pump  Make sure wires and sparkplugs are good quality.  All New 
with the exchange engine.  Moyer certified!  Distributor cap and rotor should 
have nice clean contacts. They're brand new... maybe 30 hours on them.Have 
few spare coils.  I have a spare Electronic ignition kit on board!  How is your 
oil pressure? very good!  Petar HorvaticSundowner76 C&C 38MkIINewport, RI   
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! Alright, the saga 
continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny

 P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!

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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Russ! Is you air filter clean? You mean flame arrestor?  Yes 
engine space too tight? I doubt it.  It has pretty large openings 
from the open side compartment and I ran a hose from a stern mounted, forward 
faceing vent to the engine compartment and hose from the engine compartment 
through an exhaust fan, to an aft facing, stern mounted vent. vent 
blower run continuous? I run the vent about 10 minutes before, all during and 
at least 10 minutes after, running the engine. main jet too big is 
already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what I believe is the 
culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad needle & seat (all 
it takes is a speck o' dirt there). I'm hoping by opening up and cleaning the 
carburetor that came with the Moyer exchange engine it will sort out any 
Jetting or needle valve problems.  I think I'm going to have to remove the gas 
tank completely and get it really, really clean.  I'm just hoping I can do it 
at the end of the season.  I think I'm going to redo the engine wiring harness 
as well over the off season. Thanks again,Danny  -- Original Message 
--
From: Russ & Melody 
To: Danny Haughey ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 11:16:12 -0700

Hi Danny,

 You don't need to use premium gas in a relatively low compression engine 
unless your fuel hose is not gas meth compatible (and maybe some ancient 
injection equipment as found on old VWs, not the case here!). The higher octane 
rating does not make it "better" gas but it does slow the burn rate.

 So, sooty plugs eh. To state the obvious: fuel too rich or more precisely 
fuel/air ratio too high since we've ruled out plug heat range, low compression 
and sticky oil wiper rings by virtue of Moyer rebuild.
 Air side:
 Is you air filter clean? engine space too tight? vent blower run continuous?
 Fuel side:
 main jet too big is already covered off by Moyer, float set too high? or what 
I believe is the culprit... float needle valve not seating correctly or a bad 
needle & seat (all it takes is a speck o' dirt there). 
 What is your fuel pump pressure set at? It could be too high.

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35-1
 east side o' Vancounver Island
 clouds and showers on first of two weeks off :(

 At 08:43 AM 13/08/2014, you wrote:
I am using champion RC12YC and using regular unleaded gas.
  
 I guess if I'm to use premium, I'm going to need to lug it to the boat in 5 
gallon jugs...

 
 -- Original Message --
 From: JOHN D IRVIN 
 To: Danny Haughey ,  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
 Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:38:52 -0700

 Are you using a hot enough plug and premium fuel?

 
 On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 11:33:11 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 
 - Forwarded Message -

 Alright, the saga continues.

 We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
 
 On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

 We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

 So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

 I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

 My earlier idling issues seemed to 

Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ha...this is a brand new Moyer marine exchange engine.  No way I'm going diesel 
in this boat...  I can't believe we went this long without that recommendation 
yet...


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: dwight  
Date: 08/13/2014  5:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'Danny Haughey' ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Think about repowering with a reliable diesel…OK you A4 enthusiasts hit me 
hard…but if he likes the feel of sail his Viking and I know that feel is good, 
just might be worth a new engine
 
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
 
Alright, the saga continues.

We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.

On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.

We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.

So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.

I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.

My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.

Danny


 
P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!



No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14___
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Russ, not to worry.  I'm working the issue here, on Moyer forums and with a 
couple of fellow Viking owners.  Sending all the same info and.  You may notice 
a cut and paste here from the Moyer site and vice versa


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
Date: 08/13/2014  8:27 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: "bobmor99 ." ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
 
Hi guys,

I understand that Moyer's forum is the best resource for all things A4 and I 
sure appreciated it before my diesel swap.

But I sure hope that Danny doesn't mind our input. I want to hear from him, it 
helps to keep my grey cells operating between the grey hairs. :) I believe he 
should post to both and not exclude his C&C friends from this experience. 

In the end, most of want to know what worked to fix it.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:12 PM 13/08/2014, you wrote:
Hi Danny,
This is a long email thread. I've read much of it but scanned over some parts.
A couple of things:
1) The Moyer Marine website is a better source of A4 info and help.
2) My 33-1 came with a newly rebuilt A4 in 2006. It's performed fairly well for 
daysailing. I rarely run the engine for more than ~30 minutes. Somewhat 
recently, after motoring awhile (20 minutes?), the engine hesitated. I have a 
pump-bulb close to the fuel tank. It was somewhat flaccid, as pump-bulbs go, so 
I gave it a few pumps and the engine ran fine thereafter. I'm thinking there's 
some sort of blockage in the fuel tank vent but I've not spent any time looking 
into it.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL___
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Re: Stus-List more atomic 4 issues..

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Okay, Given all the discussion, I've decided the next step, as it is really the 
only thing I did not replace, is to buy a 5 gal outboard engine gas can and run 
the engine with a brand new gas can and brand new gas.  My gut is leading me 
back to the tank and the pickup tube. I think this will eliminate the entire 
existing gas system and either show me the light or eliminate it from the 
investigation.  Of course, I won't be able to test it all out until Saturday. 
If the Gas can does not do the trick, I'll swap the carburetor again...  I'll 
go home and clean that up tonight so I have it at the ready.  So, should I, if 
the gas can does not prove to be the issue, continue on the 5 gal OB tank and 
swap the carb or go back to the existing tank before swapping out the 
carburetor? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List more atomic 4 issues..
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2014 10:20:41 -0300

Danny:
 
 While not A4 specific, these examples might help solve your engine problem.
 
 A fellow C&C lister had a C&C 24 with an inboard Volvo Penta gas 
engine..the engine simply would not start, or stay started, with anything 
but Volvo Penta spark plugs.  He can chime in and tell you the story.
 
 I have an old (est. 50 years) Lawn Boy lawn mower.for years, it started 
the first pull but after it ran for a while and you shut it off, it would not 
restart.  Replaced the coil, problem solved.
 
 Keep working at it, you will find the problem.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
  
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
 Sent: August 13, 2014 12:33 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
 
Alright, the saga continues.
 
 We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
 
 On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine some 
more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. the 
whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, then run 
normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.
 
 We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that current. 
On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. it was a 
little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was dead, head to 
wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost forward motion under 
sail and started the engine. She started right up and we motored onto the 
mooring without incident.
 
 So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below and 
pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 hours 
running time.
 
 I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. I 
think it came with the rebuild kit.
 
 My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to do 
now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap them 
back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you guys 
think I should maybe try another path forward.
 
 Danny
 
P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!
 
No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/8000 - Release Date: 08/07/14


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Re: Stus-List boat closing!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

HI Fred, I uploaded some photos, in no particular order, of the new boat if 
anyone would like a peak! One of the details I like, that the PO ordered from 
the factory, was that he did away with the teak toe rails for an aluminum angle 
toe rail.  minimal exterior teak to maitain! You can really see the need for a 
paint-job in some of the photos... http://1drv.ms/1MATBD3 Danny1985 Tartan 
40Still Vagabond

-- Original Message --
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat closing!
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2015 21:44:14 -0500

Danny -- congratulations!  You'll have to post some photos somewhere for us to 
see.

If you have any questions about interfacing the new VHF, let me know.

Frederick G Street
S/V Oceanis -- Bayfield, WI



> On Sep 25, 2015, at 3:35 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well, Finally closed on our new to us Tartan 40 today.  check is in the mail 
> and by this time tomorrow she will be all ours!
>  
> The loan company got her documented for us and did the whole title search and 
> all that. (charged like $600!) 
>  
> The weather is really nasty out there at the moment with big seas and north 
> winds so maybe by next weekend, things will settle down enough for an outside 
> delivery home.
>  
> If not we can go inside, through the east river, up LIS and take the extra 
> day or two.
>  
> Not completely sure of our landing point yet.  There is a guy with a mooring 
> near where we had the Newport Rendezvous I could get for "a deal" for a 
> couple of weeks or, maybe I'll just head back to Westport point.  From there 
> I'll have to decide where to winter her.  She needs some cosmetics I'd like 
> to have done and haven't quite decided where that'll happen yet.
>  
> I've been talking with a delivery captain over the last few weeks as things 
> progressed and will be using him to help get the boat home with me and maybe 
> another hired hand.  Anyone feel like a Tom's river, NJ to somewhere around 
> the places mentioned delivery sometime soon?  
>  
> Anyway, we're delighted about the new boat, we had all the survey items 
> addressed by the yard where she has been kept her whole life, which were 
> really quite few, and had the old diesel pumped out and 25 gallons of fresh 
> to replace it.  I think we're in good shape!
>  
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Vagabond at the moment (that would be a good boat name!! Vagabond)
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I think the best way is to do a google (or your favorite search engine) search 
and add the term site:cnc-list.com after your search phrase. Like stuffing box 
site:cnc-list.com that should return anything from the cnc site that would have 
to do with stuffing boxes Danny1985 Tartan 40Massachusetts

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Syer via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer 
Subject: Stus-List Searchable archive?
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0400


Hi All, I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking 
questions that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived messages 
can be found at : http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/ However 
these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search past 
posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.  Dave  ___

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Re: Stus-List Ipad Question

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

This looks like a really nice, inexpensive solution for a chart plotter!  I 
don't see the reduced pricing yet.  What about a radar solution? DannyMight get 
to bring the boat  home this weekend!

-- Original Message --
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List  Ipad Question
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 09:52:51 -0400

Hi Chuck, 

Yes it'll work fine with any instruments that can talk to a NMEA 2000 network. 

Since you have the Tactick system that transmits NMEA 0183 you'll need this 
converter :  
http://www.waveinn.com/nautical-fishing/actisense-ngw-1-nmea-0183-to-2000-gateway/1307655/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=1662583&country=us&gclid=CjwKEAjw4s2wBRDSnr2jwZenlkgSJABvFcwQTGaulDcBcVV4wiHa3zIgsZyuGuUAaftmvj4Cz__9BxoCiPjw_wcB

 or something similar. 

It's a heck of a deal to get genuine "designed for sailing" equipment for about 
the price (Or less) of the Apple toy.  And it connects to the internet for 
upgrades and future apps. (Runs on Linux) 

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA 




Message: 3
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 02:17:35 + (UTC)
From: Chuck S 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ipad Question
Message-ID:
 <1267067373.15514640.1444097855265.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Francois, 
Would the B&G Vulcan IPad work with non B&G components? 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2015 10:25:38 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Ipad Question 

I just got an email from B&G saying they are dropping the price by $200.00 the 
street price was $599.00 that would take it down somewhere near $399. 00 for 
the real thing complete with sailsteer, laylines, onboard instruments 
integration, tough fully bonded waterproof touchscreen you can actually see in 
the sun and operate with gloves, everything.. 

Just sayin' 

http://www.bandg.com/en-US/Product-Groups/Vulcan-7/


Regards 

-Francois 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA
___

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Re: Stus-List Winchrite

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I saw a video once where a guy was using a cordless dewalt right angle drill as 
a winch rite.  looked really cool! My new boat came with an electric winch on 
the coach roof!  The PO said if you do it right you can do almost any line with 
it. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List  Winchrite
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 10:17:43 -0400

I agree with Chuck on the 'Self tacking"  I read about that somewhere and we've 
been doing it on the 2nd half of the racing season.  Our technique is slightly 
different but it's the same idea: 

1- You start tacking without releasing the genoa. It will 'Catch" on the 
opposite tack and spin the boat in a jiff.
2- As soon as the boat has turned about 25-30 degrees let the lazy sheet go and 
grab the new sheet / pull it in (by hand) as fast as you can.  (Slowing down 
the turn with the wheel is a good idea, if you keep the wheel set for a tack 
the boat will "Over-tack")  
3- If you do it right (It's all timing) you'll need about 2 turns on the winch 
to finish trimming. We actually counted the handle turns to demonstrate the 
benefits of "staying ahead of task" as a little life lesson to my daughter 
during a race a couple weekends ago .. 

Works particularly well in light to moderate winds (Less than 15) it still 
helps a bunch in higher winds. 

That being said that Winchrite thing looks real good :-)  I think $650.00 is a 
reasonable price (If it works well) compared to several 1000.00's for electric 
winches.  I'd love to try one.  My shoulders get do get sore when we race in 
high winds... 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winchrite
Message-ID:
 <106579653.15511599.1444097037608.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Have you priced electric winches? You may need dedicated batteries for those, 
too? 
Self tailers are less money. Not sure about winch rites? Smaller jib for 
shorthanded sailing may be wiser. Also, try to head upwind more during a tack 
to get the sail sheeted in without the winch handle. 
Remove any slack in lazy sheet before tacking and put two turns on the winch. 
Set the mainsheet and traveller close to center to help the turn. Put the 
autohelm on Standby and let the boat tack itself. Let the wheel ease into the 
turn slowly, hold the release till the wind is 1/3 up the genoa, release and 
start pulling the new sheet. Once the genoa clew is past the shrouds, try and 
slow the turn with a nudge of the wheel, so the sail is inside the lifelines 
and you can get 95% of the sheet in, without the handle, fall off to the right 
course, set autohelm, trim the last bit of sheet. Takes practice, but can be a 
lot of fun. Our boats turn so easily, you can handle them like a dinghy. 

If you go in irons and find you are going backward, remember to "Reverse the 
Rudder" to get pointed in the right direction. Don't let the rudder turn to the 
stop. One or two spokes off center is all that you need to turn the boat and 
get back on course. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
___

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Re: Stus-List Winchrite vs Winch Bit

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Here is the bit. http://www.winchbit.com/ Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List  Winchrite
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 10:17:43 -0400

I agree with Chuck on the 'Self tacking"  I read about that somewhere and we've 
been doing it on the 2nd half of the racing season.  Our technique is slightly 
different but it's the same idea: 

1- You start tacking without releasing the genoa. It will 'Catch" on the 
opposite tack and spin the boat in a jiff.
2- As soon as the boat has turned about 25-30 degrees let the lazy sheet go and 
grab the new sheet / pull it in (by hand) as fast as you can.  (Slowing down 
the turn with the wheel is a good idea, if you keep the wheel set for a tack 
the boat will "Over-tack")  
3- If you do it right (It's all timing) you'll need about 2 turns on the winch 
to finish trimming. We actually counted the handle turns to demonstrate the 
benefits of "staying ahead of task" as a little life lesson to my daughter 
during a race a couple weekends ago .. 

Works particularly well in light to moderate winds (Less than 15) it still 
helps a bunch in higher winds. 

That being said that Winchrite thing looks real good :-)  I think $650.00 is a 
reasonable price (If it works well) compared to several 1000.00's for electric 
winches.  I'd love to try one.  My shoulders get do get sore when we race in 
high winds... 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winchrite
Message-ID:
 <106579653.15511599.1444097037608.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Have you priced electric winches? You may need dedicated batteries for those, 
too? 
Self tailers are less money. Not sure about winch rites? Smaller jib for 
shorthanded sailing may be wiser. Also, try to head upwind more during a tack 
to get the sail sheeted in without the winch handle. 
Remove any slack in lazy sheet before tacking and put two turns on the winch. 
Set the mainsheet and traveller close to center to help the turn. Put the 
autohelm on Standby and let the boat tack itself. Let the wheel ease into the 
turn slowly, hold the release till the wind is 1/3 up the genoa, release and 
start pulling the new sheet. Once the genoa clew is past the shrouds, try and 
slow the turn with a nudge of the wheel, so the sail is inside the lifelines 
and you can get 95% of the sheet in, without the handle, fall off to the right 
course, set autohelm, trim the last bit of sheet. Takes practice, but can be a 
lot of fun. Our boats turn so easily, you can handle them like a dinghy. 

If you go in irons and find you are going backward, remember to "Reverse the 
Rudder" to get pointed in the right direction. Don't let the rudder turn to the 
stop. One or two spokes off center is all that you need to turn the boat and 
get back on course. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
___

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Re: Stus-List Winchrite vs winch bit

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok so you can get the recommended miwalkee cordless drill doe under $300 and 
the bit for $50.  so for almost 1/2 the price you can do the same thing... 
Seems like a really good alternative Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winchrite
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 15:19:55 GMT


I saw a video once where a guy was using a cordless dewalt right angle drill as 
a winch rite.  looked really cool! My new boat came with an electric winch on 
the coach roof!  The PO said if you do it right you can do almost any line with 
it. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List  Winchrite
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2015 10:17:43 -0400

I agree with Chuck on the 'Self tacking"  I read about that somewhere and we've 
been doing it on the 2nd half of the racing season.  Our technique is slightly 
different but it's the same idea: 

1- You start tacking without releasing the genoa. It will 'Catch" on the 
opposite tack and spin the boat in a jiff.
2- As soon as the boat has turned about 25-30 degrees let the lazy sheet go and 
grab the new sheet / pull it in (by hand) as fast as you can.  (Slowing down 
the turn with the wheel is a good idea, if you keep the wheel set for a tack 
the boat will "Over-tack")  
3- If you do it right (It's all timing) you'll need about 2 turns on the winch 
to finish trimming. We actually counted the handle turns to demonstrate the 
benefits of "staying ahead of task" as a little life lesson to my daughter 
during a race a couple weekends ago .. 

Works particularly well in light to moderate winds (Less than 15) it still 
helps a bunch in higher winds. 

That being said that Winchrite thing looks real good :-)  I think $650.00 is a 
reasonable price (If it works well) compared to several 1000.00's for electric 
winches.  I'd love to try one.  My shoulders get do get sore when we race in 
high winds... 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


Subject: Re: Stus-List Winchrite
Message-ID:
 <106579653.15511599.1444097037608.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Have you priced electric winches? You may need dedicated batteries for those, 
too? 
Self tailers are less money. Not sure about winch rites? Smaller jib for 
shorthanded sailing may be wiser. Also, try to head upwind more during a tack 
to get the sail sheeted in without the winch handle. 
Remove any slack in lazy sheet before tacking and put two turns on the winch. 
Set the mainsheet and traveller close to center to help the turn. Put the 
autohelm on Standby and let the boat tack itself. Let the wheel ease into the 
turn slowly, hold the release till the wind is 1/3 up the genoa, release and 
start pulling the new sheet. Once the genoa clew is past the shrouds, try and 
slow the turn with a nudge of the wheel, so the sail is inside the lifelines 
and you can get 95% of the sheet in, without the handle, fall off to the right 
course, set autohelm, trim the last bit of sheet. Takes practice, but can be a 
lot of fun. Our boats turn so easily, you can handle them like a dinghy. 

If you go in irons and find you are going backward, remember to "Reverse the 
Rudder" to get pointed in the right direction. Don't let the rudder turn to the 
stop. One or two spokes off center is all that you need to turn the boat and 
get back on course. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Stus-List - Delivery from Tom's river to Newport area

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, We've finally got some good weather for the delivery and it seems to 
coincide with a long weekend! The plan at the moment is that I'll rent a car 
and drive down on Saturday morning and provision and go over the boat again for 
familiarity. The delivery captain is coming out of Annapolis on Sunday morning 
and we'll head out Sunday afternoon for the overnight into home waters. If 
anyone is interested in crewing let me know and whatever your needs are. Of 
course I'll cover expenses and such and whatever you might like as 
compensation. Of course it would be easier if you were coming out of either my 
local area or Annapolis as we could share travel expenses with either myself or 
the the delivery captain. If not, wish us luck and I'll let you know how we 
made out when we get home! Danny1985 Tartan 40south coast, Massachusetts___

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Re: Stus-List - Delivery from Tom's river to Newport area

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Joel Said
 
Andy Said

Thanks guys would have been great if you could have made it!!  I'm very excited!

Mike said


IDK maybe 30 or 40 anyway, what do you think, 1 crew/ft of boat??

Marek said


I just checked, it's like $300  I'll split it with ya!!  LOL

Danny 

On Thursday, October 8, 2015, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Ok, We've finally got some good weather for the delivery and it seems to 
coincide with a long weekend! The plan at the moment is that I'll rent a car 
and drive down on Saturday morning and provision and go over the boat again for 
familiarity. The delivery captain is coming out of Annapolis on Sunday morning 
and we'll head out Sunday afternoon for the overnight into home waters. If 
anyone is interested in crewing let me know and whatever your needs are. Of 
course I'll cover expenses and such and whatever you might like as 
compensation. Of course it would be easier if you were coming out of either my 
local area or Annapolis as we could share travel expenses with either myself or 
the the delivery captain. If not, wish us luck and I'll let you know how we 
made out when we get home! Danny1985 Tartan 40south coast, Massachusetts

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Stus-List Stus List - Home safe and sound

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, we made without issue.  weather was mild and calm mostly but we did see a 
few hours of fog, rain and lightning. We did 210 nautical miles in 29.5 hours 
with an average of 7knts Mostly motor sailing and straight motoring.  Ran the 
engine the whole way. I'm very happy with the trip and the boat.  It was my 
first time that far off shore and on an overnight passage. i'm grateful for the 
experience and the hired Captain and crew were a great couple of guys to spend 
time with. I'm very happy to have the boat at home and ready to use for a 
couple of weeks!! Thanks for all the advice, insights and general banter on the 
whole process finding a boat and getting her home! Danny1985 Tartan 40Rum 
Runner IV (currently)Wesport Point, MA P.S. I'm actually considering keeping 
the name due to the fact she has held that name her whole life...  We're being 
a little superstitious...___

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Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I used the PBase butyl tape on the Viking's hatch replacement.  Never leaked.  
you do have to clean up the oozed tape a couple of times after its been in a 
while. One roll goes a long way.  I set the hatch, handrails, traveler and 
still didn't use up the first roll. DannySouth Coast MA

Please note: message attached

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Martin DeYoung 
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2015 23:21:02 +

Put Calypso in the same group of butyl tape after the over drill and epoxy fill 
process.  For our foredeck hatch which is 33” x 33” we are upgrading to through 
bolts as the deck sees more twist and flex around that larger deck opening.

We have reconditioned all three hatches, two are original 1970 A/H, one (the 
foredeck) is a A/H added in the early 80’s replacing the wood frame original.  
We used Hammerhead for the lens and seal recondition and had a local aerospace 
coating company re-anodize the frames.  We replaced an opening port in the 
cockpit. The white plastic framed port frame failed and allowed water into the 
balsa.  We used a same sized Lewmar which looks much like the other hatches.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 5:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

I did ours, and butyl tape worked great. Had to over drill and fill the old 
holes yes, also found cracks where the liner and deck met, which were a source 
of leaks, so fixed them with G2 Flex (if I remember correctly) which has a bit 
of give in it. The new Lewmar’s actually matched the openings better than the 
Bomar’s I removed!

Paul Fountain
Perception II
C&C 33-II

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

All,

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Stus-List - Dodger for a C&C 29

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi, I was doing a search and came across this at mass marine parts if anyone 
might be interested. http://www.massmarineparts.com/dodger.aspx Looks good in 
the pics.  Not sure if it would fit other models than the 29. I have absolutely 
no affiliation with Mass Marine parts other than having bought a couple of 
things there Danny___

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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

heck the Raymarine site is actually beating defenders price by over $110 on a 
EV200 below deck auto pilot plus free shipping makes it an even better deal.  
Not sure about taxes though... I didn't really look at the wheel pilots 
though... I'll try and see where i got the one for the Viking.  i remember it 
was a good deal. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sale Tools
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2015 17:26:42 -0500


Ha!  I recently had to suggest to a lister to get a wheelpilot from Defender; 
for some reason, the sale price they were running was actually over $100 below 
my wholesale cost from my vendor.  Volume purchasing does have its 
advantages� the rest of the time, I can beat their pricing.
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in 
Bayfield, WI   :^( 
On Oct 19, 2015, at 5:17 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:How about "If they can beat Fred's 
price..."Graham CollinsSecret PlansC&C 35-III #11On 2015-10-19 11:35 AM, 
Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:If it seems too good to be true... 
http://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/sale-tools.comFred Street -- 
MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   
:^( 
___

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Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi All, So, it seems the yard said they cannot remove the mast because of the 
sail track that rides up the mast track for the furling system. I basically 
have two options where they are concerned.  Find another yard for storage or, 
wet store the boat in a slip. I don't think I would mind the wet storage option 
if she wasn't in such a need for a bottom job. What do you guys think? The 
reason they cannot remove the mast is because they use a sling and the sling 
would damage the track... Maybe someone can recommend a place nearby where I 
can store her on the hard.  i know not every yard requires the removal of the 
mast. DannyWestport Point, MA___

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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

oh I like the way you think!

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 15:27:59 -0400


Danny, I assume you have projects to do over the winter.  Close to home helps 
get things done.Wet store where you are and arrange for a haul-out and to have 
the bottom work to be done in the early spring.  You'll be blocking the lift, 
so they will have to turn it around quickly. Joel
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Danny, New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up 
(and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).  That's 
pretty close to Westport Point. Tim
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hi All, So, it seems the yard said they cannot 
remove the mast because of the sail track that rides up the mast track for the 
furling system. I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find 
another yard for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip. I don't think I 
would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a need for a bottom 
job. What do you guys think? The reason they cannot remove the mast is because 
they use a sling and the sling would damage the track... Maybe someone can 
recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the hard.  i know not every 
yard requires the removal of the mast. DannyWestport Point, 
MA___
 
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of page at:
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___
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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of page at:
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 -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

So, I'm looking around, does anyone know anything about the Borden Light 
Marina.  They have some good reviews on Active captain an another couple of 
sites but, anyone could write those. Their rates are really cheap at $18/ft for 
wet storage and $33/ft for on land storage.  Thats a 3-4 hour trip for me by 
boat but, closer to drive from the house. DannyWestport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 15:27:59 -0400


Danny, I assume you have projects to do over the winter.  Close to home helps 
get things done.Wet store where you are and arrange for a haul-out and to have 
the bottom work to be done in the early spring.  You'll be blocking the lift, 
so they will have to turn it around quickly. Joel
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Danny, New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up 
(and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).  That's 
pretty close to Westport Point. Tim
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hi All, So, it seems the yard said they cannot 
remove the mast because of the sail track that rides up the mast track for the 
furling system. I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find 
another yard for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip. I don't think I 
would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a need for a bottom 
job. What do you guys think? The reason they cannot remove the mast is because 
they use a sling and the sling would damage the track... Maybe someone can 
recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the hard.  i know not every 
yard requires the removal of the mast. DannyWestport Point, 
MA___
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

thats not much more than what FL Tripp wants. Do they store mast up? Maybe 
you're going to see me there...  it is actually no further timewise from my 
house and probably a few less miles Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 16:03:40 -0400


Hinckley is 433/ft for dry storage plus 11/ft for haul and wash. NEB is about 
the same.I'm going to NEB rather than some of the other options around the bay 
because they don't do anything in a slipshod manner. I know there are some 
places that do.Caveat emptor! 

AndyC&C 40Peregrine
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So, I'm looking around, does anyone know anything about the Borden Light 
Marina.  They have some good reviews on Active captain an another couple of 
sites but, anyone could write those. Their rates are really cheap at $18/ft for 
wet storage and $33/ft for on land storage.  Thats a 3-4 hour trip for me by 
boat but, closer to drive from the house. DannyWestport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 15:27:59 -0400

Danny, I assume you have projects to do over the winter.  Close to home helps 
get things done.Wet store where you are and arrange for a haul-out and to have 
the bottom work to be done in the early spring.  You'll be blocking the lift, 
so they will have to turn it around quickly. Joel
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Danny, New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up 
(and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).  That's 
pretty close to Westport Point. Tim
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hi All, So, it seems the yard said they cannot 
remove the mast because of the sail track that rides up the mast track for the 
furling system. I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find 
another yard for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip. I don't think I 
would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a need for a bottom 
job. What do you guys think? The reason they cannot remove the mast is because 
they use a sling and the sling would damage the track... Maybe someone can 
recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the hard.  i know not every 
yard requires the removal of the mast. DannyWestport Point, 
MA___
 
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301 541 8551
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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck, I was at Swansea Marina for about 3 years when I had a 22' boat.  I 
go back there in heart beat if he'd store it but the biggest boat he'll take is 
34' How is Harry? saturday would be good day to move the boat, I already 
removed the sails so, its motoring the whole way. I'd take you up on the offer 
for company on the delivery.  NEB would be about 3-4 hours.  Borden light is 
really inexpensive but, they really do pack in the boats and access can be 
really difficult over the winter. I'm going to make some calls tomorrow. I'm 
also considering Mattapoisett.  we really love buzzards Bay and want to stay 
close for the summer. I can do a nice sail to cutty hunk in a 2-3 hours...  We 
LOVE cuttyhnk!! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Chuck Borge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 19:21:19 -0400


Danny, Borden light treats some friends of mine pretty fairly.  Further up the 
River is Bristol Marine's Somerset yard and even further up is Shaw's.  I've 
heard good things about both with Shaw's the less expensive option.Swansea, 
where I am, would not be able to handle your boat for the size, I think.  I 
draw 6' and am about the biggest sailboat there at 34'.Good luck, if you bring 
it around to Mt. Hope Bay, let us know.  I might be up for a ride and am not 
far away. Chuck BC&C 34 ElusiveSomerset, MA
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 5:03 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I dunno, Jonathan, When ever I'm up there drooling over the big boats, I notice 
a ton of much smaller boats around. 

AndyC&C 40Peregrine
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 4:58 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have heard some not so positive things about NEB. They look after many "major 
money" clients - and the feeling was that unless you are in that league, you 
get short changed. 

--JonathanIndigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
On Oct 29, 2015, at 16:03, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hinckley is 433/ft for dry storage plus 11/ft for haul and wash. NEB is about 
the same.I'm going to NEB rather than some of the other options around the bay 
because they don't do anything in a slipshod manner. I know there are some 
places that do.Caveat emptor! 

AndyC&C 40Peregrine
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
So, I'm looking around, does anyone know anything about the Borden Light 
Marina.  They have some good reviews on Active captain an another couple of 
sites but, anyone could write those. Their rates are really cheap at $18/ft for 
wet storage and $33/ft for on land storage.  Thats a 3-4 hour trip for me by 
boat but, closer to drive from the house. DannyWestport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 15:27:59 -0400

Danny, I assume you have projects to do over the winter.  Close to home helps 
get things done.Wet store where you are and arrange for a haul-out and to have 
the bottom work to be done in the early spring.  You'll be blocking the lift, 
so they will have to turn it around quickly. Joel
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Danny, New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up 
(and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).  That's 
pretty close to Westport Point. Tim
On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hi All, So, it seems the yard said they cannot 
remove the mast because of the sail track that rides up the mast track for the 
furling system. I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find 
another yard for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip. I don't think I 
would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a need for a bottom 
job. What do you guys think? The reason they cannot remove the mast is because 
they use a sling and the sling would damage the track... Maybe someone can 
recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the hard.  i know not every 
yard requires the removal of the mast. DannyWestport Point, 
MA___
 
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 -- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yard Service quality

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Here is a good one, So, the yard where my new to me boat was stored for it's 
entire life, did all, or supervised all the work on this boat.  The PO was 
actually an owner of the yard!  I had to listen to the yard manager/partner 
talk about how great his reputation was and how good his work is and lecture me 
on my electrical tester and even said that my electrical crimper (yes the one 
Wally recommended) was not correct for the task.  Now as get further and 
further into the boat, I'm finding wire connections with nothing but tape, some 
residential barrel connectors with not even tape over them, taped joins in the 
bilge, hoses disconnected and left plugged off laying in the bilge, wires 
disconnected with just tape on the end...  and this is just the superficial 
investigation... All the talk in the world won't make shoddy work better...  I 
really have a hard time trusting anyone to work on my stuff either. On the 
other hand, when I was still out in the field doing plumbing, I always found 
I'd rather pull things back just a bit further and do a better job than to try 
and patch things up and get out of there.  I really haven't met too many people 
with that attitude.  Of course I never owned the company, I was always on the 
payroll and I just did my best to avoid a call back.  So, I guess it really as 
much self preservation as doing right by a customer.  That and knowing that 
doing it right is always less of an ass ache than trying to hack it...  IMHO  
...I'd let me work on my house!!  LOL Danny

-- Original Message --
From: mike amirault via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mike amirault 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications - Yards
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 10:51:23 -0300


I agree with you Mike. The previous owner of my C&C 33II (boat was named 
Pelagic) had most of the work done by "professionals" at one of the large 
marinas in Halifax. Some of the repairs I have uncovered make me shake my head, 
shoddy to say the least. I do all my own work on the boat now and it's done 
right. Mike AmiraultC&C33 MKii Lovely CruiseSt Margarets Bay___

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Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Merek.

I couldn't agree with you more.  It's just, the more I think about it, how much 
do I want to push them if they are afraid or worse, simply unwilling?  "It's 
not what we're used to so, we can't do it"  

I'm beginning to believe the latter is the case.  Maybe they believe their 
equipment is not up to the task...

Thanks for the suggestion though.  I'm sure that's the way it could be done as 
it is a double spreader rig.

DannyOn Oct 29, 2015 11:37 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Danny,
>
> You can always devise a bridle that would grab the mast by the spreaders 
> (without putting any pressure on the back of the mast). You can get up to the 
> spreaders using a small ladder (or get yourself lifted in a bosun’s chair or 
> a harness). This is a reasonably standard practice if your mast has two set 
> of spreaders (e.g. like mine).
>
>  
>
> Of course if the yard has its own way and does not want to listen to 
> suggestions, you cannot do much. It helps if you demast on your own (how we 
> do it in our Club) - you can fiddle to your heart’s desire.
>
>  
>
> Good luck
>
>  
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa
>
>  
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: October-29-15 15:07
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
>
>  
>
> Hi All,
>
>  
>
> So, it seems the yard said they cannot remove the mast because of the sail 
> track that rides up the mast track for the furling system.
>
>  
>
> I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find another yard for 
> storage or, wet store the boat in a slip.
>
>  
>
> I don't think I would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a 
> need for a bottom job.
>
>  
>
> What do you guys think?
>
>  
>
> The reason they cannot remove the mast is because they use a sling and the 
> sling would damage the track...
>
>  
>
> Maybe someone can recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the hard. 
>  i know not every yard requires the removal of the mast.
>
>  
>
> Danny
>
> Westport Point, MA
___

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Stus-List Fwd: Raymarine Multi Function display/radar combo

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I don't know if anyone is interested but I saw the package at boaters land for 
under $1775.00 shipped Model RAYT70232 Thats pretty cheap! I wish I could get 
west marine to price match because I have over $200 in gift cards that I got 
for birthday presents! Danny___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Raymarine Multi Function display/radar combo

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred!! Great deal!  I have a couple other expenses coming up at the 
moment... Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Raymarine Multi Function display/radar combo
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 12:19:41 -0600


Danny � happy birthday!   :^)
 I can beat that price by $25 through midnight Eastern time, if anyone�s 
interested� my vendor�s sale ends then. � FredFred Street 
-- MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI 
  :^(On Nov 10, 2015, at 8:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:I don't know if anyone is interested but I saw 
the package at boaters land for under $1775.00 shipped Model RAYT70232 Thats 
pretty cheap! I wish I could get west marine to price match because I have over 
$200 in gift cards that I got for birthday presents! Danny___

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Re: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Wow Tom!  I'm so happy for you!  Congratulations!  That's a really great tale!

DannyOn Nov 12, 2015 6:40 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
>  
>
> Thanks for the pics of your new sails.  Now I miss the nekked pics in the new 
> format Playboy mags a little less.
>
>  
>
> Congrats on the upgrade to carbon fiber tapes.
>
>  
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
>  
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2015 10:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!
>
>  
>
> Stuart Dahlgren from UK Sails NW showed up with my new sails yesterday.  But 
> they were NOT what I ordered!
>
> I ordered the UK Tape Drive with the Glass Fiber tapes.  Well it turns out 
> that when they were engineering the sails it was determined that the load 
> levels would be near the upper edge of the Glass Fibers.  So, Stuart took it 
> upon himself to upgrade the sails to the Carbon Fiber tapes at no extra 
> charge.  It was a pleasant surprise when I peeked in the bags.  Definitely 
> not what I ordered, but I am not complaining.
>
> Stuart Dahlgren took the time to hand deliver them and handled the 
> installation, including making sure that the mainsail was all good for our 
> Schaefer in-boom furling.  He trimmed the battens as well for a perfect fit.  
> Then he hung out at our club to BS with a few sailors.  Since it was too late 
> for him to drive home to Sidney, we invited him to stay over for dinner and 
> an evening of Scotch and sailing talk.  Then a quick breakfast this morning 
> before taking off today.
>
> I cannot recommend this guy enough.  www.UKSails.ca if anyone is interested.
>
> And if you want to check out the sails, there are some good pics here - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/
>
> I cannot wait to take them out for a spinwoohoo!
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
___

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Re: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Tom, How long have you had that Sheafer boom furler?  I have one on my "new 
to me" boat. I've only been able to use it about 3 times but, so far I really 
love it! It had not been exercised in a few years and they left it with the 
sail rolled up in it year after year so it seemed a bit stiff but began to work 
more easily each time.  The main sail seems to be pretty new.  It has a neil 
pryde main sail on it.  When you look at the videos of the booom furler on the 
Shaefer site you can see the Neil Pryde logo on the sail on their demonstration 
boat.  I was assuming Sheafer made some kind of deal with them. Any tips or 
tricks on using it? Danny

-- Original Message ------
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2015 18:52:49 -0500

Wow Tom!  I'm so happy for you!  Congratulations!  That's a really great tale!

DannyOn Nov 12, 2015 6:40 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
>  
>
> Thanks for the pics of your new sails.  Now I miss the nekked pics in the new 
> format Playboy mags a little less.
>
>  
>
> Congrats on the upgrade to carbon fiber tapes.
>
>  
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
>  
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2015 10:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!
>
>  
>
> Stuart Dahlgren from UK Sails NW showed up with my new sails yesterday.  But 
> they were NOT what I ordered!
>
> I ordered the UK Tape Drive with the Glass Fiber tapes.  Well it turns out 
> that when they were engineering the sails it was determined that the load 
> levels would be near the upper edge of the Glass Fibers.  So, Stuart took it 
> upon himself to upgrade the sails to the Carbon Fiber tapes at no extra 
> charge.  It was a pleasant surprise when I peeked in the bags.  Definitely 
> not what I ordered, but I am not complaining.
>
> Stuart Dahlgren took the time to hand deliver them and handled the 
> installation, including making sure that the mainsail was all good for our 
> Schaefer in-boom furling.  He trimmed the battens as well for a perfect fit.  
> Then he hung out at our club to BS with a few sailors.  Since it was too late 
> for him to drive home to Sidney, we invited him to stay over for dinner and 
> an evening of Scotch and sailing talk.  Then a quick breakfast this morning 
> before taking off today.
>
> I cannot recommend this guy enough.  www.UKSails.ca if anyone is interested.
>
> And if you want to check out the sails, there are some good pics here - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/
>
> I cannot wait to take them out for a spinwoohoo!
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Schaefer in-boom furling

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Tom thanks for the reply!
How do you set the angle? 
Thanks also for fixing the subject line


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message 
From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Date: 11/13/2015  12:28 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia  
Subject: Stus-List Schaefer in-boom furling 

Danny

The PO bought the boom for us, along with an electric winch for the mail 
halyard/furling line.  Unfortunately, he went with a crappy loft for the 
mainsail.  As a result, I had to have the main rebuilt twice since we got Alera 
in 2012.  Batten ends were too far off the luff tape and the batten angles were 
all off.  So, I'm not sure I have had the full benefit of the rig yet.  But I'm 
pretty sure I will going forward.

That said, here are a few things I have learned.

Furling is a joy.  Just reef down one batten at a time.  

The rigid vans limits the ability to tune the main. But, my furling in the mail 
without slacking the halyard you can flatten the sail nicely.

Also, adjusting the curve of the mast w a baby stay or adjustable back stays 
works some too. 

Speaking of the vang, make sure you hit the 87 degree angle dead on. Otherwise 
the sail will bunch and the battens will not roll into the boom correctly.

Lynn and I double Alera all the time and I think this will allow us to stay 
sailing into our 70's.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Nov 13, 2015, at 5:44 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2015 13:42:27 GMT
> From: "Danny Haughey" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!
> Message-ID: <20151113.084227.2581...@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Hi Tom, How long have you had that Sheafer boom furler?  I have one on my 
> "new to me" boat. I've only been able to use it about 3 times but, so far I 
> really love it! It had not been exercised in a few years and they left it 
> with the sail rolled up in it year after year so it seemed a bit stiff but 
> began to work more easily each time.  The main sail seems to be pretty new.  
> It has a neil pryde main sail on it.  When you look at the videos of the 
> booom furler on the Shaefer site you can see the Neil Pryde logo on the sail 
> on their demonstration boat.  I was assuming Sheafer made some kind of deal 
> with them. Any tips or tricks on using it? Danny

___

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Re: Stus-List Schaefer in-boom furling

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I did that by eye and it seemed to work pretty well but, when Tom gave such a 
precise angle I thought he had some way of aligning perfectly!  (or I was 
hoping!) Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Schaefer in-boom furling
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2015 13:54:59 -0500


Danny, 
If the wind-up of the bolt rope on the boom is working aft, the aft end of the 
boom is too high, if it's working forward, the aft end of the boom is too low. 
You want the sail to furl so the bolt rope lays almost, but not quite on top of 
itself.

AndyC&C 40Peregrine
On Fri, Nov 13, 2015 at 1:47 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Tom thanks for the reply! How do you set the angle?  Thanks also for fixing the 
subject line   Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
Date: 11/13/2015 12:28 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia  
Subject: Stus-List Schaefer in-boom furling 

Danny

The PO bought the boom for us, along with an electric winch for the mail 
halyard/furling line.  Unfortunately, he went with a crappy loft for the 
mainsail.  As a result, I had to have the main rebuilt twice since we got Alera 
in 2012.  Batten ends were too far off the luff tape and the batten angles were 
all off.  So, I'm not sure I have had the full benefit of the rig yet.  But I'm 
pretty sure I will going forward.

That said, here are a few things I have learned.

Furling is a joy.  Just reef down one batten at a time.  

The rigid vans limits the ability to tune the main. But, my furling in the mail 
without slacking the halyard you can flatten the sail nicely.

Also, adjusting the curve of the mast w a baby stay or adjustable back stays 
works some too. 

Speaking of the vang, make sure you hit the 87 degree angle dead on. Otherwise 
the sail will bunch and the battens will not roll into the boom correctly.

Lynn and I double Alera all the time and I think this will allow us to stay 
sailing into our 70's.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Nov 13, 2015, at 5:44 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2015 13:42:27 GMT
> From: "Danny Haughey" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!
> Message-ID: <20151113.084227.2581...@webmail-beta02.vgs.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Hi Tom, How long have you had that Sheafer boom furler?  I have one on my 
> "new to me" boat. I've only been able to use it about 3 times but, so far I 
> really love it! It had not been exercised in a few years and they left it 
> with the sail rolled up in it year after year so it seemed a bit stiff but 
> began to work more easily each time.  The main sail seems to be pretty new.  
> It has a neil pryde main sail on it.  When you look at the videos of the 
> booom furler on the Shaefer site you can see the Neil Pryde logo on the sail 
> on their demonstration boat.  I was assuming Sheafer made some kind of deal 
> with them. Any tips or tricks on using it? Danny

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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

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Stus-List chrome lewmar 30 ST winches for sale on eBay

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Full disclosure, this is a guy from the Viking group that is selling these.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/231759918058?_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&_mwBanner=1

Thought I would pass the info along.  $850 for the pair

Danny

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Re: Stus-List lewmar 30 winches

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I may have spoke too soon.  It seems he wants $850 for one.  Sorry about the 
mis- information...

Danny
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Re: Stus-List Vacation Options -- Not C&C Related, But Sailing Related

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi edd, in pretty sure you can do day rentals out of any of the charter 
companies on Tortola

DannyOn Nov 24, 2015 4:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I’m heading to the caribbean next month for a much-needed vacation on a 
> cruise ship. The ship is going to St. Maarten, St. Thomas, Old San Juan and, 
> for a short time, Tortola. 
>
> I’m looking for recommendations on a trustworthy sailboat (or, if I have to, 
> powerboat) rental options for a day at one of the destinations. The sailing 
> excursions offered through the cruise line tend to be more motor-with-the 
> sail-up, don’t-touch-the-lines, booze cruises — which I’m looking to avoid. 
> Instead, I’d like to just go out, sail around, snorkel, beach, etc. on my own 
> schedule. 
>
> Any suggestions? 
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wishing Every C&C-er a Happy Thanksgiving

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Here here!
Nice job edd!
Happy thanks giving everyone!   And thanks for all the great advice!
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Edd 
Schillay via CnC-List  Date: 11/25/2015  4:20 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: C&C List  Cc: Edd Schillay 
 Subject: Stus-List Wishing Every C&C-er a Happy 
Thanksgiving 
Listers,
Just wanted to take a moment to wish you and your families a happy Thanksgiving 
(belated for those of you in Canada.) Just remember -- as you reconsider that 
extra helping of turkey, stuffing and potatoes -- all those times you wished 
you had some extra weight on the rail. 
Along with my thanks for my loving wife and family, I thank all of you for your 
guidance and camaraderie in what has become the most valuable aspect of owning 
a C&C. 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log












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Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Gary, 
Awesome write up!  Did you do the hatch lenses in place?  I need to do all of 
my hatches.  As soon as I come up with a plan to seal the hatches back up,  I'd 
like to take them all home to do the work. 
I may be bothering you fur more info on the lenses, where you got them and how 
you cut them,  etc.  I saw I video where a guy used the butyl tape on hatches 
like mine but,  found it oozed at the hinges. 
Anyway,  I'm envious of your upgrade! 
All the bestDanny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Gary 
Russell via CnC-List  Date: 12/2/2015  8:47 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: C&C List  Cc: Gary Russell 
 Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued) 
For those who were following my post on bonded windows on
High Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated
below.  I have successfully installed two
windows on the starboard side and replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and
can say that the project has been very successful.  I have terminated my 
project at this point as
the temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature
of greater than 60 degrees F for application. 
Here are my observations:


 

#1.  Plexus is evil
stuff and should not be allowed on a boat. 
It is too hard and tenacious a bond. 
Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a different expansion coefficient,
fracture of the acrylic is assured. 
Removing the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat
underneath.  I tried a sharp blade
between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was rip up the
gel coat.

 

#2.  Before removing
the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood (or other material) 
because
the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and you will have nothing as a
reference for making the new windows.

 

#3.  I finally was
successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit set to a depth equal to 
the
thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the Plexus.  I actually used a 
Roto-Zip instead of a
router as it had a smaller footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed 
the router to cut through the
acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky
but effective.   Don’t cut all the way
around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the
weight of the router and you will cut into the gel coat.  You can break out the 
tabs later.

 

#4.  Once the windows were
out, I used West System epoxy thickened with low density filler to repair any
damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my gel coat damage was limited to the 
area under the windows.  Once the windows
are out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy. 

 

#5.   I cut the new
window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router bit (sometimes called a 
Formica
trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in
half lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or template).  I 
ran the tape at right angles to insure that
they wouldn’t slide in either direction with respect to each other.  It does a 
very nice job and is quite
easy.  I then used a 1/8” round off
router bit on the outside edge of the new window for cosmetic reasons and a 45
degree chamfer bit on the inside edge to make room for the Dow Corning 795
silicone.

 

#6.  I installed the
3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around where I wanted the window
to go.  This would help me locate the window and provide the masking for the 
Dow Corning 795 silicone
to follow.  I also masked the edge of the
new window for the same reason.

 

#7.  Now cones the
tricky part.  You only get one shot with
the VHB tape, because once it is down, it is not coming up.  I tried adhering 
two small pieces of acrylic
to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape, and I can assure you,
you won’t pull them apart.  VHB is
amazing stuff.  As a guide, I mounted two
small wooden blocks to the masking take below the window with a small piece of
VHB tape.  By attaching it to the masking
tape, I was sure I could get it back off. 
Actually, VHB doesn’t stick very well to masking tape anyway.  I also stuck a 
small wooden block to the masking
tape at one end of the window as well. 
This allowed me to set the window on the two bottom block and then slide
it over to the end block before pushing the window into place.  By all means, 
make several trial runs with
the film still on the VHB tape before removing the film.  Once the film is off 
you are committed.  I pushed the window in place and it looked
perfect.  Then it is simply a matter of
squirting the Dow Corning stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a
finger.  As soon as the silicon is
smoothed out, you can remove the masking tape and pour yourself a stiff one,
while you admire the fine job you have done.

 

#8.  There was concern
expressed that the VHB tape would be visible through the window, and it was
suggested that the window should be painted with Krylon Fusion Black

Re: Stus-List Sails

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I used to bring my sails and canvas in every year for inspection, repair as 
needed,  clean as needed, waterproof UV treatment and storage to the quantum 
loft.  I think the most expensive year was like $400 and they had to do some 
repairs due to chafing on the mainsail cover.  Another year they added spreader 
patches and beefed up the foot of the headsail because of lifeline chafing.
I'd have to look at the old invoices to see exactly what things cost
DannyMattapoisett, MA


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Edd 
Schillay via CnC-List  Date: 12/6/2015  12:22 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails 
Chuck,
I'm not positive, but I think it was under $200. 


All the best,
Edd
---Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseNCC-1701-BC&C 
37+ | City Island, 
NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400  | 
Office914.774.9767  | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 
6iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
On Dec 6, 2015, at 11:14 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi Edd,
What does UK typically charge for this service?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Edd Schillay" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 2, 2015 1:11:17 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails

Larry,
You could go with a mild laundry detergent, but I would recommend using a 
winter storage and inspection service by your local sailmaker. They will not 
only clean your sail, they will inspect and do some repairs if needed. I’ve 
done this with UK quite a few times and the pricing is beyond reasonable. Come 
Spring, you pick up your clean, folded and repaired sail.  

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log








 



 
On Dec 2, 2015, at 12:55 PM, Douglas via CnC-List  wrote:
Happy Holiday EveryoneI purchased my boat a year ago and trying to learn 
everything I can, while at the same time spit and polish the boat.She is a 
38-ft MKIII. I just took the Jib/Genoa down to replace on the running rigging. 
Now I want to CLEAN and store the sail for the winter. I believe it is 125% 
Genoa. Just not sure what material. It is neil pryde sail. The question is, 
what is the best way to clean such a large sail. I have read the solution 
should be a mild laundry detergent and fabric softener, Is this correct. I 
thought about putting a tarp in the back of my pickup bed and letting it soak 
overnight and then pulling it out by the head and scrubbing with a soft nylon 
brush on both sides as I go. I can take a couple of sawhorses and build a 4X8 
work platform to scrub on. Rinsing and flaking it onto another tarp on the 
ground. Then hanging it in the garage to dry.Any thoughts. How do you all do 
it?ThanksLarry___




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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

There was only a large bowmar hatch in the v birth of my 73 viking 33.  Only a 
solar poweredvent in the head. 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: D 
Harben via CnC-List  Date: 12/6/2015  6:59 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: D Harben  
Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38 
Is the head hatch on the 70s Viking 33/34 the same?  The Nicro 3" cap gives 
some sense of scale in the picture:
Viking 34 Head Hatch
Don
V34NCYC
On Dec 6, 2015, at 6:17 PM, s/v Johanna Rose via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Fred,
All of my hinges have one hole.   The break occurred between the hole and the 
hinge joint.  I have posted additional photos on my blog but no write up yet. 
I checked Wally’s site(our hulls are two numbers off), and it looks like his 
hinges are like mine with one big hole through the acrylic for each hinge.  The 
latch on the other hand has two holes.  
Maybe around 1981, they changed the hinge?

Here is the direct link to Wally’s page:  
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/deck/hatch/index.htm

Thanks again for you input.

-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Dec 6, 2015, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2015 13:07:50 -0600
From: Frederick G Street 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PME 
Subject: Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38
Message-ID: <5296fd50-e2c9-41f5-bd42-89088414f...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul ? that looks pretty nasty; and those lenses don?t look like they?re 
original to me.  The hinges have two holes for bolts; it looks like the one on 
the left of your photo cracked across those two holes.  I have no clue where 
the other one came from, with one large bolt through it, unless it was drilled 
out from its original state.

If you can get the hinge pin out, I?d be willing to bet you could use the one 
intact hinge from this hatch to have some new one machined out of aluminum, 
with the original hole pattern for the lens bolts.  If you decide to go that 
route, let me know and I can have some lenses made up for you.

I doubt you?re going to find a replacement hatch anywhere that will fit those 
dimensions without having to do a LOT of glass work; the pads in which they sit 
don?t match any after-market hatches I?ve ever been able to find, or I would 
have replaced mine long ago.

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
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Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan, welcome to the list! I had a worse looking smile than that on my 
Viking 33 when I got her.  I had the yard torque the bolts (I didn't have a 
torque wrench that could handle the job) and they cleaned and faired the crack. 
 4 years later there was no sign of the smile returning.   I'm thinking you 
could do the same. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
To: "Della Barba, Joe" 
Cc: Ryan Doyle , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 16:18:38 -0500


Thanks Joe.  That's a relief to hear.  I have not torqued the bolts yet, but I 
plan to using the specs on cnc photo album.  I can't stop picturing the 
nightmare scenario of my feel falling off... like that Oyster off the coast of 
Spain recently. 
On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe  
wrote:
All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts.
Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs.
 
Joe
Coquina 
C&C 35 MK I
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Ryan Doyle
 Subject: Stus-List C&C "smile" plus small separation
 
Hi all,
I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works 
yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C&C 30 
mki. 
My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C&C 
"smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a hairline separation from 
the hull at the very aft section of the keel that extends for about 6" from the 
aft of the keel forward.  This separation is such that if I kneel down and peer 
at it at just the right angle, I am able to see light on the other side.  I am 
concerned.
 
 I have a survey from 2014.  And there is no mention of the keel.  It only 
states, "...The vessel was observed on stands.  A bottom examination was 
conducted.  No structural deformities were noted.  Running gear is in 
acceptable condition..." etc. etc.
Some photos of my keel are available at the links below.  If anyone has some 
insight/experience into what I'm seeing I'd love to hear it.  Thanks so much 
and excited to be a part of the forum.
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGc2xDZXpBS3A5MEMtdE5YdlRPQVZhWTFGWmNN/view?usp=sharing
 
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGa1RYX0p1dTFQWjk2UDVDdmhURmkzRXJZNjAw/view?usp=sharing
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Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Tim,

I don't really have a recommendation except to get to a good sized boat show 
and try to talk to a few lofts to get some boat show discounts.

I think I saved about $1200 on two sails from a very reputable loft that way.  
I hit 15% off.  I still priced out other local lofts and it really was a true 
15%

DannyOn Dec 7, 2015 7:49 PM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>  
>
>    I’m in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is 
> rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity).   A winter project.   I 
> was just curious if others may have such a system, and advice/recommendations 
> for brand of replacement.  I tried to search the archives and unable to find 
> a result.  I sail inland on Lake Champlain.
>
>  
>
> Thanks much for your time and thoughts.
>
>  
>
> Regards,
>
>  
>
> Tim W.
>
> s/v Sly Fox
>
> 1976 29’ MK1
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Re: Stus-List Boat tools

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

the craftsman angle driver is a great tool to have on board.

-- Original Message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2015 20:50:45 +


Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper for battery lugs.
Lithium battery drill
Sears Universal Access socket set
 
Joe
Coquina
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 3:20 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Edd Schillay
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat tools
 
Dennis,
 
My must-haves on the Enterprise are:
 
1. Stubby tool and wrench set — 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Stubby-Wrench-Socket-Set-45-Piece-012299/203499960?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CTHD%7CG%7C0%7CG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7C&gclid=CLmM15aHzckCFUSPHwodpGABdA&gclsrc=aw.ds
 The only downside is it’s not stainless steel, so I have to replace it 
every few years. 
 
2. Max Axess Socket (hollow) Wrench Set — 
http://www.kmart.com/19pc-universal-max-axess-socket-and-ratchet-set/p-010W003866977001P
 
 
3. Silicone Rescue Tape — http://www.rescuetape.com 
 
4. Easy Wire Stripper — 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151K0332/ref=s9_zwish_hd_bw_g469_i7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=1VC29X1G3W5EJEX7HAJ1&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=9a723b8c-b7c6-5e41-b31b-5a7dd74c7305&pf_rd_i=553398
 
 
5. Diagnostic TR580 Tricorner Mark VII — 
http://cdn1.theodysseyonline.com/files/2015/01/23/635576399112866731653705041_tricorder.jpg
 

 All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 

 
 
 

  
 
 
On Dec 8, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
 
Time for a discussion on our favorite boat tools  Aside from the usual 
collection of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers and locking pliers, what do you 
find indispensable for boat work?

 Dave said:  "For cutting consider an oscillating tool like a Fein, with a 
circular bimetal blade.   (where has this thing been all my life???) This 
is the boat repair guy's friend, second only to the angle grinder"
 
Yep, a vibrating saw is a valuable tool.  I have the Dremel MultiMax corded 
(the cordless ones don't have the oomph to get the job done).  Can't beat it 
for making plunge cuts and flush cuts.  Also use it with a flexible caulk 
removal blade for removing ports, hardware, etc. that is sealed with silicone, 
polyurethane, polysulfide, etc.
 
 However, my favorite all around go to tool is this:  

 
For hose clamps, it's a 5/16" nut driver.  Can't imagine why anyone uses a 
screwdriver on a hose clamp if they have a nut driver.
 
The other tool I use a lot is a 1/4 inch shank cone grinding stone for making 
the chamfer on deck penetrations.
 
Every boat should have a cheap digital multi-meter on board.  
 
 The other electrical "thingie" for cruisers is a polarity tester.  Yeah, your 
breaker panel has a little reverse polarity light but what if it's burned out?  
Get one of these:  
 
 
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449604186&sr=8-1&keywords=polarity+tester
 
What's your "must have" tool?
 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Fred, my view is that, if it fails and it is a minor inconvenience, you can 
go knockoff and gamble a few bucks.  If it fails and it could burn down the 
barn or leave you stranded and in harm's way, no gambling, go with name brand, 
tried and true. DannyMattapoisett, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
To: 
Cc: Pete Shelquist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2015 16:22:57 -0600


Fred – 
Try it, you’re only out $75 if it doesn’t work.  Then with your 
experience, I’ll be that much smarter when replacing mine.
 
Don’t worry about the technology – fuel pumps are a lot different 
than a Li battery.
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 10:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Wabasto furness
 
I need to replace the dosing pump on my Wabasto airtop 3500/ 5000 furness.   I 
can buy a Wasbasto replacement for about $200 or a Chinese one for about $75 on 
ebay. I am looking for listers feelings about using the knock off  pump .
 
 
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or
___

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Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

no way!  I just got the same quote for  3 cushions for the u-shaped seat, 3 
cusions for the backs, 1 cushion for the strait settee and 3 cushions for it's 
back in sunbrella for $850.  He'll reuse the foam, add new "fibre" layer. and 
thats here in Massachusetts.  hell, it would be worth the shipping to use my 
guy.  This guy did cushions for our old 22 footer many years ago.  He does nice 
work.  He is an upholsterer not a marine upholsterer! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2015 15:12:05 -0500


If this quote was from a marine operation, I would at least check the price 
from a local fabric/upholsterer. This will reduce the marine 'premium' at 
least. Charlie Nelson36 XL/kcbNorth Carolina  cenel...@aol.com  -Original 
Message-
 From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Joel Aronson 
 Sent: Thu, Dec 17, 2015 3:08 pm
 Subject: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch
 
All, Just got a quote to have the cushions in the main salon - U shaped dinette 
and straight berth with back cushions- recovered in Sunbrella.​  Estimate 
was at least $2200 depending on fabric/extras.  Is that a reasonable price?  Is 
there any good way to DIY if you don't sew? 
Joel 35/3Annapolis
 301 541 8551___
 
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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Mike!  Welcome to the list.  My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
the I moved up to a c&c designed Viking 33.

Ed is right!  You're going to love the c&c 34!  The power in the sails is 
probably the first that will impress you!  Congratulations on your new boat!

As for the hot water, I know a guy that only got hot water from a heat 
exchanger (just like the fresh water cooling one)  it saved him a ton of space 
but the engine needed to be warm to get warm water.  It's sort of an 
alternative to the hot water tank system and you could always add a tank later 
on.

Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 10:54 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Welcome to the list. You will love the C&C 34 better under sail.
>
> The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to 
> the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
> equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.
>
> Ed
> Briarpatch C&C 34 1981
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>>
>> Mike here...
>>  
>> Just bought a 1978 34' C&C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner 
>> was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.
>>  
>> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from 
>> a 22' OdayMH..
>>  
>> I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all 
>> very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was 
>> hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess 
>> around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been 
>> discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 
>> around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the 
>> mast are set for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard
>>  
>> My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if 
>> the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine 
>> (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling 
>> system.gonna be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are 
>> under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...
>>  
>> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Mike
>> 1978 34' Skywalker
>> Southold, NY
>>  
>>  
>>  
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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I hear ya!  I upgraded again in October and I'm in the save situation, waiting 
for spring...

Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 23, 2015 8:12 AM, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Thanks Dan!
>  
> The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior 
> completely last winter including all new bulkheads, teak dinette, electric, 
> watermay sell it eventually or give it to one of my kids...
>  
> I appreciate the input, and I can hardly wait to get the 34 back in the 
> water.what a bummer having to wait all winter.
>  
> mike
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-
> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: djhaughey 
> Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 6:36 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater
>
> Hi Mike! Welcome to the list. My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
> the I moved up to a c&c designed Viking 33. Ed is right! You're going to love 
> the c&c 34! The power in the sails is probably the first that will impress 
> you! Congratulations on your new boat! As for the hot water, I know a guy 
> that only got hot water from a heat exchanger (just like the fresh water 
> cooling one) it saved him a ton of space but the engine needed to be warm to 
> get warm water. It's sort of an alternative to the hot water tank system and 
> you could always add a tank later on. Danny MassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 
> 10:54 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List  wrote: > > Mike, 
> > > Welcome to the list. You will love the C&C 34 better under sail. > > The 
> hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to the 
> right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
> equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower. > > Ed > 
> Briarpatch C&C 34 1981 > New Orleans, La. > > On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, 
> Headgorilla via CnC-List  wrote: >> >> Mike here... >> 
>   >> Just bought a 1978 34' C&C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous 
> owner was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat. >>   >> 
> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from a 
> 22' OdayMH.. >>   >> I have been following the discussions that you guys 
> are having and it is all very, very educationaland since I bought the 
> boat on the day it was hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I 
> haven't been able to mess around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI 
> since you guys have been discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and 
> everything leads back to the 8 around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on 
> cockpit combing), the two by the mast are set for the babystay track and one 
> for the spinnaker halyard >>   >> My question..the Admiral needs hot 
> water for her shower..looks as if the best and only place for it is on 
> the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access 
> to the fresh water cooling system.gonna be some piping to do since the 
> water tank and pump are under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the 
> starboard... >>   >> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it? 
> >> >> Thanks, >>   >> Mike >> 1978 34' Skywalker >> Southold, NY >>   >>   >> 
>   ___ Email address: 
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Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello guys, I just heard from the yard.  they walnut strip the bottom.  He told 
me it was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you 
very much!)!  he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the 
hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut blasting. 
 I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand the gelcoat to 
get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has something to stick to. He 
said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds maybe 2 man 
days to the labor. Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic?  I 
mean if they say it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had 
not been done, why would the bottom paint not have failed?  DannyT40Rum Runner 
IVMattapoisett, MA___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck, I have my boat in Mattapoisett at triad boatworks.  The walnut was a 
lot less than $5000!  They gave me a per ft number but I can't remember it 
right now.  However, the complete bottom job start to finish with materials was 
about $5k to $6K If I pull my notes out later I'll give you better indications 
of cost. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: robert via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 13:05:14 -0400


Chuck:
 
 I have no first hand experience with either soda or walnut blasting.� I 
did however have the bottom of my boat 'dry ice blasted' to remove the 
antifouling paint down to the gelcoat.
 
 Dry ice blasting is a very quick, clean and effective method to strip bottom 
paint.� Perhaps another option if there is anyone in your area that does 
it.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 �
On 2015-12-23 10:47 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:Hi Danny,
Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which yard?� 
I�m having my �new� 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the 
North Shore of Mass to the South Coast in early January and the bottom paint is 
flaking off in chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat underneath in most 
places.� I would say that the paint over shiny gel coat method was not 
terribly effective for adhesion.
� Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he 
tells me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom that 
takes a significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards to allow 
bottom paint go on nice and smooth.� Perhaps he was also implying that 
the boat should have a barrier coat added as well� either way, with soda 
blasting and subsequent bottom prep, we were talking� in excess of $5000.
� With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint as 
possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum attachment, 
leaving just enough �tooth� on the gel coat hull surface to 
repaint.� It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard and 
build my upper body strength at the same time!
However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if it is less 
invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically want to start with 
a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint. ��Would love to hear 
from others that have used the walnut shell method and what they�ve done 
to prep afterwards.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
�
S/V Orion
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
�
 
___

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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

On my Viking i ran all new hose to the vents on the transom.  I used the blower 
to pull air out of the back of the engine compartment and attached the other 
end of the hose to one vent and faced its scoop aft.  The other scoop I faced 
forward and ran the hos attached to it to the front of the engine compartment.  
I figured that way I'd get the benefit of moving forward to continually add 
fresh air to the engine compartment.  It is just my own logic that came to that 
setup but, I never did blow up! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
To: 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 15:05:08 -0500


Something like this might be what you are looking for:
 
3” in-line bilge blower DetMar Cat No. 7-5-4; 12 VDC 3.5A; Ignition 
protected – 6 AMP fuse 
(http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC or 
http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450901052&sr=8-1&keywords=DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge
Or : http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-140-Marine-Blower-3-Inch/dp/B000O8AZ8K or 
http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-240-Marine-Blower-4-Inch/dp/B000O8D0IC
 
Marek
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 14:53
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
 
You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed 
for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want 
the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.
 
Joe 
Coquina
 
___

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Re: Stus-List Stus-list: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas Marek and all the listers that celebrate it!! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
To: 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Stus-list: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2015 00:10:08 -0500


All the best, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all fellow listers.
I wish you all great sailing, very generous Santa, good winds and, as always, 
at least a foot of water under the keel. And to those of us who are on the 
hard, so that the winter is quickly over (they forecast +16 �C for 
tomorrow, not that it helps any; you can’t sail or ski).
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa
___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I've seen your lovely yacht!  I couldn't miss the C&C star, was the first thing 
I saw while driving through the first time!  Of course, Harry already told me 
you were there so I looked for the name too! There goes the neighborhood!  LOL 
I'm right up against the road (well was before stripping) just before the last 
row.  Black Hull, Rum Runner on the side. I'll be down there on Wednesday if 
you're around.  I go down almost every weekend, too, for a few hours.  would 
great to say hello! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: David via CnC-List 
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2015 09:54:45 -0500


Danny...I keep Corsair at Triad as well.

We are you i the yard...?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 15:58:23 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net

Danny,I know Peter over at Triad so I can ask for a quote.  They do nice work.  
Thanks!Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 23, 2015, at 3:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Chuck, I have my boat in Mattapoisett at triad boatworks.  The walnut was a 
lot less than $5000!  They gave me a per ft number but I can't remember it 
right now.  However, the complete bottom job start to finish with materials was 
about $5k to $6K If I pull my notes out later I'll give you better indications 
of cost. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: robert via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 13:05:14 -0400


 Chuck:
 
 I have no first hand experience with either soda or walnut blasting.� I 
did however have the bottom of my boat 'dry ice blasted' to remove the 
antifouling paint down to the gelcoat.
 
 Dry ice blasting is a very quick, clean and effective method to strip bottom 
paint.� Perhaps another option if there is anyone in your area that does 
it.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 �
On 2015-12-23 10:47 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:Hi Danny,
Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which yard?� 
I�m having my �new� 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the 
North Shore of Mass to the South Coast in early January and the bottom paint is 
flaking off in chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat underneath in most 
places.� I would say that the paint over shiny gel coat method was not 
terribly effective for adhesion.
� Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he 
tells me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom that 
takes a significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards to allow 
bottom paint go on nice and smooth.� Perhaps he was also implying that 
the boat should have a barrier coat added as well� either way, with soda 
blasting and subsequent bottom prep, we were talking� in excess of $5000.
� With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint as 
possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum attachment, 
leaving just enough �tooth� on the gel coat hull surface to 
repaint.� It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard and 
build my upper body strength at the same time!
However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if it is less 
invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically want to start with 
a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint. ��Would love to hear 
from others that have used the walnut shell method and what they�ve done 
to prep afterwards.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
�
S/V Orion
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA
�
 ___

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Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Okay so, Hodges has the Raymarine T70232 Multi function/radar combo for 
$1730.00 delivered. its the e7D & RD418D Radar Dome anyone have any thoughts on 
the particulars of this package for my sailboat? Also, Fred you want a shot at 
this? DannyMattapoisett, MA___

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Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

The boat w just bought came with a rally Tasker head sail.  Although the 
material felt crisp the leech was complete shredded. 
It came with a dacron sun cover and that was shredded,  the sail was shredded,  
there were numerous repairs evident.  At guest I thought the all had been left 
furled fur very long periods of time and that was happened to the edge.   Then 
I noticed all the patches. 
That is my only experience with rally tasker.  I ended up ordering a new sail 
from precision sail loft.  So far the customer service has been good but,  I 
haven't seen the all yet.   They gave me 3 quotes at different levels of sail 
cloth (and build quality maybe).  I ended up going with the highest grade with 
some extras.  The price is $3500 with shipping.
You have to pay the haggle game a little.   I ended up with a15 percent 
discount by dragging my feet a little.   You know,  "I don't know,  I have to 
think about it. .." type stuff.  A few phone calls later...  I won't see the 
sail until March.   That was my call though because they allow a 3 payment plan 
and I wanted to spread out the cost.  So a third at order,  a third two months 
later and a third at shipping.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
Frederick G Street via CnC-List  Date: 12/25/2015  6:35 
PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List New beer can Genoa 
Jon -- especially given your last name (!), I'd suggest you try Rolly Tasker 
Sails in Thailand.  They've given me a quote of $1400 delivered for a 135 
headsail for my LF38; and their quality is supposed to be very high.

www.rollytasker.com

-- Fred

Frederick G Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis -- 1979 C&C Landfall 38
On the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 25, 2015, at 12:31 PM, Jon Tasker via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I need an affordable 155% Genoa for my 37 for Wednesday nights. North wants 
> $5000, Ullman wants $3140. At age 75, my wife the questions the necessity. 
> Anyone got any suggestions.
> Jon Tasker 
> C&C 37
> Muskegon MI
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello again,  
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this package but I notice a similar 
package with the A78 for $110 more. 
Can anyone help with the differences and benefits of one over the other fur a 
sail boat! 
I see the a78 has that chirp technology and seems compatible with more tablets 
and smart phones than just the apple reference of the e7D.
Thanks for any insightsDanny

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
Frederick G Street via CnC-List  Date: 12/24/2015  2:18 
PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale 
again 
I can match that through the end of the year (barely).  It’s a hell of a price. 
 Keep in mind that if you’re going to mast-mount the dome, you’ll need the 
mount, as well as a 10-meter radar extension cable; those will total about 
$400.00 additional.
Also, I just got an email from Raymarine about their Gear-Up 2016 rebate 
program; it starts on January 4th.  Here’s a link: 
www.postaudio.net/webserver/2016_Gear_Up_Sales_Event_Worksheet_Web.pdf
Merry Christmas to all, and best wishes for a great 2016!
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Dec 24, 2015, at 9:16 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:
Okay so, Hodges has the Raymarine T70232 Multi function/radar combo for 
$1730.00 delivered. its the e7D & RD418D Radar Dome anyone have any thoughts on 
the particulars of this package for my sailboat? Also, Fred you want a shot at 
this? DannyMattapoisett, MA
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok,  I just pulled the trigger on the e7D combo.   I have a bracket on the mast 
and I'll be using that.  From what I can tell the holes may just match up!  
I've never had radar before.  We do get fog though.  
ALL the rest of the instruments are raymarine so that's my choice here


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
Ahmet via CnC-List  Date: 12/29/2015  4:59 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ahmet  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again 
I have a mast mount because that is how my boat came, but would prefer a high 
(12+ft) stern pole.I had twice problems with my stern pole radar on my previous 
boat which I was easily able to fix (broken belt, and water in the unit) which 
would have been a major issue on the mast mount (at least for me).
For coastal cruising, I don't think I ever cared for anything farther that 5 
miles.For me, the main purpose for radar is other boats in the dark and fog, 
and unlighted cans at night, which are all within a few miles. That is  
assuming that one has GPS and AIS.Sometimes I use it to verify the GPS.If one 
is sailing in areas where GPS charts are not as reliable, that may be a 
different issue, AhmetBoston, MA

On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Thanks Guys,

 

I was thinking mast mount mostly to keep it away from passengers and crew, 
however I can see it as a possible pest on the mast as well.

 

I still have some time since we are wrapped up and on landI really 
appreciate the input

 

Mike

 

 

-Original Message-

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: Frederick G Street 

Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2015 3:32 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again







A couple of comments on radar: a mast-mounted radar will “see” vessels further 
away, including over the horizon compared to deck-level.  But as Chuck 
mentioned, it will not see things in the water closer to the boat, as there’s 
about a 12.5° vertical beam width above/below horizontal on most marine radars; 
so as a target gets within several dozen yards of the radar, it’ll be too low 
to be picked up.  Using a stern pole can help with this close-in imaging of 
targets; but you lose the distant ability of having the dome up high.




There is also a danger with stern pole mounting of having the radar beam hit 
deck crew; stand too close to a high-power radar beam, and you can develop some 
nasty medical issues like vision loss.  This is an issue I have with power 
boaters who mount the dome right on their hard top (usually a large open 
array…), then come into the dock on a clear sunny day with the radar merrily 
turning away.  The beam is pretty much at head-height for anyone standing on 
the dock, and it’s pretty easy to get a nice face full of microwave radiation 
at close range.





Chuck — as far as NME0183 vs NMEA2000 on the Raymarine a, c, e, and eS Series 
MFDs, ALL of them support NMEA2000.  See page 51 of the a-c-e Installation 
Manual.  The smallest versions of the a and c Series DO NOT have NMEA0183 
connections on them at all.





— Fred





Fred Street -- Minneapolis

S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(







On Dec 29, 2015, at 1:51 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Mike,

My experience with mast mounted radar is not favorable.  Close in targets tend 
to drop off (such as small boats and channel markers in the fog) as the radar 
tends to see above those objects.  The mast mount is also hell on an 
overlapping jib..

Chuck Gilchrest



Sent from my iPhone



On Dec 29, 2015, at 2:23 PM, Headgorilla via CnC-List  
wrote:






Thanks for discussing the Raymarine equipment, I am going into the NY boat show 
next week to see my electronics people and probably but a package due to all 
the rebates and discounts they offer, so I appreciate your experience on this 
subjectI am listening.

 

One Question: where the best spot to mount the Radar antenna, on the Mast? or 
off a pole on the stern?

 

Mike Dolan

1979 34' C&C "Skywalker"

Southold, NY

 

 

-Original Message-

From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2015 2:15 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Raymarine Combo on sale again







I believe the C series units also rely on NMEA 0183 networking language where 
A, E series and newer will be NMEA 2000 and can network more readily with 
peripherals such as wind, speed, depth, and autopilot.  I’d check to see what’s 
on your boat with regards to the peripherals and that may make a difference in 
your decision making process.  Don’t try to mix and match instrument brands or 
operating language otherwise you will spend all your sailing time trying to 
make the instruments talk to each other and at best, functionality will be 
limited.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

 

S/V Orion

1983 35 Landfa

Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi all, 
Happy new year! 
My boat came with an old icon vhf that I believed was noon functioning from the 
Surveyor.   It turned out that the antenna was not connected and it does in 
fact work. 
Well,  while I didn't know it was functioning,  I bought the SH with AIS from 
fred but,  never installed it.  I realize the convenience of having a stronger 
solution at the helm tab a handheld,  I've been wondering if it would be a good 
idea to install the new SH in the cockpit. 
The icom, although old,  is considered a nice unit.  I hate to throw it away 
but,  I have this new SH I'm not sure What to do with and I like the AIS 
function.
Any comments or insights? 
Thanks, DannyMattapoisett,  ma


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: 
"Dennis C. via CnC-List"  Date: 1/8/2016  2:49 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: CnClist  Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List VHF / AIS 
I'm guessing SH won't be long offering NMEA 2000 units.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 1:34 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I like the SH radio, but my boat is wired for NMEA 2000.Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 2:26 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
I agree, Fred.  If you want a wireless remote mic, buy a handheld VHF, 
specifically the Standard Horizon HX850S.  

No, it won't pump out 25 watts but your wireless remote won't work in your 
dinghy away from the boat, either.

I have a hardwired RAM3 at the helm for my Standard Horizon VHF.  Love it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 11:37 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
That’s supposed to be a pretty nice radio; but I have an issue with the whole 
wireless remote mic thing.
First, has anyone ever lost overboard something that wasn’t firmly attached to 
the boat?  And secondly, has anyone gone to use a piece of rechargeable 
battery-powered electronics, only to find that the battery was dead?  Neither 
of these scenarios apply to a hard-wired remote mic like the S-H or the Icom.
Otherwise, I’d agree that the Simard was a great option.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Jan 8, 2016, at 9:25 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:
Has anyone looked at or used the Simrad RS35 VHF radio?  It looks amazing for 
the price!  It has NMEA2000, AIS, DSC and supports up to two wireless remote 
mikes.  Defender has it for $329.99.  The wireless remote mike is $139.99.  The 
comparable Icom radio is $399.99 and the remote mike and cable is $274.98.  So, 
$469.98 vs. $674.97.
GaryS/V High Maintenance'90 C&C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Barry Lenoble via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hey, I do like Standard Horizon gear and I have had a few of their VHD radios. 
Nice gear, good audio quality, innovative, etc. My comment is this: The SH 
radios are NMEA 0183 only. This is too bad because NMEA 2000 is much easier to 
integrate. If you don’t have any other electronics, and don’t plan on 
integrating the radio to a plotter, then don’t worry about it and the SH radio 
is a good choice. However, if you think you might want to install a 
chartplotter, and display the AIS information on the plotter screen, and / or 
you plan on interfacing a plotter to an autopilot, wind instrument, or ANYTHING 
else, I strongly recommend you buy a VHF that has NMEA 2000 interface.  With 
NMEA 2000 you don’t have to worry about connecting the little tiny wires 
together, or about baud rates, or who is the talker and who is the listener. 
You just plug the cable in and it works.  Simrad makes a VHD/AIS receiver with 
NMEA 2000, so does Lowrance and I think icom does too The Simrad unit is nice 
because the second station handset is wireless and you can carry it with you. 
The Lowrance unit doesn’t support the second handset.  Good luck,Barry   Barry 
Lenoblelenoble@optonline.netDeep Blue C, C&C 110Mt. Sinai, NY
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine e-Series Chartplotters/MFDs

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I just bought an e7D radar combo.  I can't tell you too much about it as it is 
sitting my garage in the boxes.  I am excited by the idea of it though. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine e-Series Chartplotters/MFDs
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2016 13:17:11 -0500


Same! Ray has been issuing OS updates about every 6 months.  They have added 
lots of useful features.  I also like that I don't have to buy expensive 
charts. Joel
On Mon, Jan 11, 2016 at 1:14 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I have the e7 and am delighted with it.

Andrew Burton61 W NarragansettNewport, RI USA02840 
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260
On Jan 11, 2016, at 13:10, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers, So I was at the NY Boat Show this past weekend and took a good look at 
the Raymarine e-Series (specifically the e9 one). Built-in GPS and data display 
of other information hooked up to the system (including my new Raymarine EV200 
autopilot.) Does anyone have one? Pros? Cons? The price seems very low given 
all it does, especially compared to the cost of my current Garmin GPSMap2006C. 

All the best, Edd  Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: 
NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log   
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 -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551___

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Re: Stus-List Installing a bilge pump in a C&C 24

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

You could install a pump remotely, in a locker or cabinet and then run a hose 
into the bilge.  It keeps the pump high and dry and might even be able to 
remove more water to a lower level.

I installed two whale gusher pumps that way on my Viking.  It worked well and 
very little water drained back into the bilge when the pump stops.  One I 
installed with a float switch and one on a manual switch.

DannyOn Jan 21, 2016 1:13 PM, Alex Wolfe via CnC-List  
wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I have been thinking about installing a Rule bilge pump as a companion to the 
> existing original manual pump.  There is not much room and I am reluctant to 
> start cutting holes in the cabin floor. The issue is where to route the hose. 
>  Have any of you done this on a 24 or 25? 
>
> I am leaning towards a mobile installation that I could deploy to the bilge 
> or keep coiled under the sink when not in use, but this is not the most 
> graceful solution.
>
> As always, your wisdom is appreciated.
>
> Regards,
>
> Alex  
>  
> Alex Wolfe
> Shaka, C&C 24
> Coconut Grove Sailing Club
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hey Mark, 
I have a cousin with the same name from NY.  That wouldn't be you? 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List  Date: 1/26/2016  9:12 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy  
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 

Thanks.  Sounds like a fairly straightforward project.  My post is welded to 
the base.  Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. 
 I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.



I like your idea to put a table across the galley.  I bought an Origo 3000 
alcohol stove and figured I'd have to put it on the ice box.  A shelf will open 
things up nicely.



Thanks again,



Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL



On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
wrote:









Mark,
 
The table was removable on all the C&C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C&C 25s and had a dinette that
 converted into a berth.  
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove
 it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one
 side.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List

Sent: January-26-16 18:29

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Mark McMenamy

Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info


 

Hi Rick,


 


Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.


 


Thanks for the info and the welcome.


 


Mark



Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25


Fort Pierce FL





On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List  
wrote:





Mark,
 
Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.
 
The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke. 
 Mine has a plywood backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and 
I have a 2” thick, one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom 
on the outside.  The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for 
sailing.
 
When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in
 rainy weather.  I made a boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire 
cockpit and wraps over the lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use 
the cockpit in all but the worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table 
in the cockpit floor
 so we can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board 
that fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar 
and a place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the 
cabin.
 
Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.


 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.
 
 
 


Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL,
 but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.


 


I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm to
 get down there.


 


Thanks again for the info.


 


Mark


 


 


 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C&C 25


Fort Pierce FL

















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