Stus-List Re: Racor 500MA question

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

A bit off topic, but related as long as we are talking about clogged Racors.   
When I installed a Racor 500 on my boat last year, I added an Across Ocean 
Systems (AOS) fuel pressure sensor on the intake line between the Racor and the 
tank.  It sends the data to my Raymarine chartplotter over Seatalk ng and so I 
can see the pressure at the helm.  I had to tweak the settings because it 
reports negative pressure and the Raymarine can't display that, but by putting 
in an offset, it now reports 5 psi normally and as that approaches zero it 
means the filter is getting clogged.  I am very happy with the result because 
getting a visual on the standard gauge on top of the Racor is a PITA on my 
boat.  Dave

https://acrossoceansystems.com/index.php/shop/
Shop
acrossoceansystems.com

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

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Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Interesting discussion.  The only time I have had my raw water intake plugged 
was when I ran the engine in a grassy area while at anchor.  In that case, the 
grass plugged up the through hull and never got to the strainer.  The admiral 
dived down and cleared it by hand by pulling the weeds out.  I don't think that 
could happen when motoring or at least it hasn't yet.  I am much more careful 
now running the engine when there is seaweed or grass floating around, 
especially when not moving.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 8, 2024, at 2:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Glen,
> 
> Touche' no longer has an Atomic 4 but below is a link to the raw water 
> strainer on Touche'.  It's accessible from the starboard lazarette locker.
> 
> The strainer is a Perko.  Mine has a short glass, not the standard length.  
> With a standard glass, it would be too tall.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P9HJ4ar2hbK36zokePs_uLYfQZoAi1I-/view?usp=sharing
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2024 at 8:00 AM Glen Eddie via CnC-List  > wrote:
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I was wondering whether anyone has installed a water intake filter system 
>> for the raw water intake on an atomic 4.  Specifically, the water thru haul 
>> is pretty close to the water pump hook up and any filter that is not an 
>> inline filter would require some right angles on the plumbing.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks.   
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Glen Eddie
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

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Stu

Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I agree that the threads on the aluminum plate are likely the weak link, but 
the plate is pretty thick (0.4”) so lots of threads.  Also, that winch is used 
exclusively to raise and lower the main, so not a lot of stress on it since 
once the main is up, the clutch takes over.  It made it so I could easily raise 
the main solo from the cockpit with my eWincher while manipulating the boom to 
prevent the sail hanging up on the lazy jacks.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 23, 2024, at 3:14 PM, Matthew Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That is a cool approach, but if I understand how it was done, the weak link 
> IMHO is that tapped aluminum is holding the new winch.
>  
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2024 2:42 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?
>  
> Hey David,  
> That's cool.  You made an adapter plate, so you didn't change the holes 
> through the deck.  That's a cool trick. 
>   
> Thanks, 
> Chuck S 
>   
>   
>> On 03/23/2024 2:33 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: 
>>   
>>   
>> When I swapped an old non-self tailing winch with a new Harken winch, I 
>> decided I wanted to re-use the holes from the previous winch.  So I bought a 
>> circular aluminum plate the size of the winch base, drilled holes through it 
>> in the pattern of the original winch, then drilled and tapped holes to match 
>> the new winch base to secure the new winch base.  I am happy with the 
>> result.  Dave 
>>  
>> S/V Aries 
>> 1990 C 34+ 
>> New London, CT 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 22, 2024, at 8:23 PM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: 
>>>  
>>> I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on 
>>> my C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches. 
>>> Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to 
>>> fill old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or 
>>> plywood backing plates. 
>>> 
>>> Any other hints and tips? 
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Dean 
>>> BarraWind 
>>> 1980 C 34 
>>> Halifax, NS 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> 
>>> Thanks for your help. 
>>> Stu 
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> 
>> Thanks for your help. 
>> Stu 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

When I swapped an old non-self tailing winch with a new Harken winch, I decided 
I wanted to re-use the holes from the previous winch.  So I bought a circular 
aluminum plate the size of the winch base, drilled holes through it in the 
pattern of the original winch, then drilled and tapped holes to match the new 
winch base to secure the new winch base.  I am happy with the result.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 22, 2024, at 8:23 PM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on my 
> C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches. 
> Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to fill 
> old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or plywood 
> backing plates.
> 
> Any other hints and tips?
> 
> Thanks, Dean
> BarraWind
> 1980 C 34
> Halifax, NS 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: going all pex

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I used PEX to install a pH adjustment tank for our house water.  It was really 
easy.  Sharkbite fittings are really easy to attach even for copper to pex 
junctions and have so far worked flawlessly.  I haven’t soldered pipe since I 
discovered them.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Jan 17, 2024, at 12:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My daughter just dodged a bullet due to PEX plumbing.  The garage at her 
> house was converted by a previous owner to a studio Accessory Dwelling Unit 
> (ADU) that she rents out long term.  Whoever did the conversion plumbed the 
> unit with PEX.
> 
> This past weekend we had an Arctic air mass sag down into Denver.  The 
> temperature dropped 45℉ in 18 hours overnight Friday, bottoming out at -13℉ 
> Saturday morning at 6am.  The subzero lows and single-digit highs lasted 
> three more days.
> 
> The cold water supply line to the washing machine and hot water heater in the 
> ADU froze somewhere.  On Monday I put some space heaters in strategic 
> locations.  Yesterday afternoon the freeze thawed and hot water started 
> flowing again.  And, here’s the best part: no sign of leakage.  Since PEX can 
> expand a bit, it’s less prone to cracking when frozen than copper.  Otherwise 
> it would have been a bigger mess and a bigger job.
> 
> I’ve never used PEX because I don’t know how, and I don’t have the tools.  
> Whereas I’ve sweat-soldered plenty of copper.  But I’m starting to become a 
> believer.  My travel trailer has all PEX plumbing.
> 
> Not that the above anecdote is all that relevant to plumbing in a boat - if 
> things freeze in a boat, you’ve got potentially bigger problems, like cracked 
> castings.  But I thought I’d share anyway.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 K I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
>> On Jan 16, 2024, at 9:39 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have been going nuts with fresh water leaks lately. It seems like the ½” 
>> hose has lost its flexibility over the decades, it is now rock hard. I can’t 
>> get it off any barb, I have to cut it off and the hose is so stiff I can’t 
>> get a leak-free connection anymore. I got out a spare role to replace it and 
>> that stuff too is about as flexible as iron pipe, I guess I saving it for 30 
>> years was not cost-effective ☹
>> I never though of ½’ water hose as an expense before, but the stuff is 
>> expensive now too! I think it is over $3/ft at West Marine and $1/foot off 
>> Amazon for Chinese chemical-smelling hose. Certainly no one plumbing a house 
>> is putting up with this, so I asked and the hardware store clerk turned me 
>> on to PEX tubing. It is cheap, like $0.50 a foot, and is strong enough to 
>> freeze and not burst. I got the special crimp tool and stainless crimp bands 
>> off Amazon for $25 or so and a 12-pack of PEX to NPT fittings. I think it is 
>> time for all the old hose to go.
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>>  
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and Donation)

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi- JohnKelly-  Another thing you might consider for the chandlery is C 
license plate holders. If I remember correctly, Edd got ahold of some as swag 
for one of the C rendezvous's and I have had them on my car ever since.  Mine 
are aging and I would replace them in a heartbeat.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Dec 31, 2023, at 5:39 PM, Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If there is enough interest I can add it to www.candcyachts.com 
> 
> 
> I was hoping to grab an original for the archives but I was too late :-(
> 
> JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
> 
> www.candcyachts.com 
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> 
>> On Dec 31, 2023, at 4:52 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Edd;
>>  
>> From the prompt responses to your offer (unfortunately, I was cooking when 
>> you sent the message and didn’t see it until a few minutes ago) I think you 
>> may have identified an item that John Kelly might want to add to the C 
>> Chandlery. I know I’d buy one if they were available.
>>  
>> Hope you have a great New Year – even though you’ve become a stinkpotter.
>>  
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
>> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
>> Washington, NC
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> ] 
>> Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2023 2:22 PM
>> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List C Racing Shirt - Size XL - Free (pay Shipping and 
>> Donation)
>>  
>> Listers,
>>  
>> Happy new year! 
>>  
>> I’m giving away my never-worn C Racing polo shirt, size XL. 
>>  
>> On the front is the C logo with “RACING” underneath. On the back are the 
>> nautical flags: Alpha Mike Foxtrot (You’ll have to look it up as to what 
>> that means, but here’s a hint: C are so fast that your competition will 
>> see this on your back as you pull away.)
>>  
>> See: 
>> https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/2jdxgny0u4zp6sgwp8yok/cc-shirt.jpg?rlkey=zsylggrdk09zmttmb4i68lpj8=0
>>  
>> 
>>  
>>  
>> First person to reply that he/she wants it has first dibs. After that. i’ll 
>> need $10 via PayPal to cover shipping and for you to make a donation to Stu 
>> for the C site/list. I’ll leave it up to you if you want to donate $1 or 
>> $100. 
>>  
>>  
>> All the best,
>>  
>> Edd
>>  
>>  
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List How to prevent hull scratches

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had my boat painted a few years ago with Awlcraft 2000.  I find that I am 
getting a large number of light scratches in the hull paint in the area where I 
normally bring my dinghy alongside to board the boat.  This is near where the 
launch comes as well, but the location seems to correlate more with the dinghy 
than the launch (which has bumper pads attached).  My PortaBote dinghy has 
rubber-like rails and for extra protection, I covered them with pool noodle 
tubes.  However, it looks now like the pool noodles may be worse than nothing.  
Does it make any sense to anyone that pool noodles could scratch paint?  What 
do others find is the best hull protection?  I could attach some kind of fender 
to the side of the dinghy.  Some people at our club always leave cylindrical 
fenders hanging on the side of their moored boat, presumably to protect against 
our less capable launch drivers, but that could work for the dinghy as well.  
If fenders, do you find that cloth covers on traditional fenders is more 
gentle?  Thanks- Dave
 
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I would not use Barnaby Blatch.  He did a survey of my boat after a grounding 
and required me to do some unrelated stuff that I thought was unnecessary, time 
consuming and costly; for instance an automatic fire suppression system in the 
engine compartment.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 9, 2023, at 5:35 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All,
> My insurance company is wanting a C survey for the first time in 25 years.  
> The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and 
> the policy renews in weeks. 
>  
> Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking for 
> a surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat is in 
> Branford for the winter. 
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Wet Vac

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Bill- I have a portable DeWalt vac/blower which I love for these jobs.  It 
runs corded or cordless/battery.  I have thought of doing the same thing to 
clear the water lines, but wasn’t sure how to join the two.  How did you make a 
decent seal between the small diameter water line from the pump (pex?) and the 
large diameter ribbed hose of the vacuum?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 20, 2023, at 11:39 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I also love my little Crapsman Vac, I think maybe only a 2.5 Gal, but works 
> great for many things - Vacuuming Mast water, sucking the bilge dry, and as 
> you mention, winterizing.
> I Tried a new twist which I think works better, instead of blowing the water 
> out, I disconnect the water line out of the domestic water pump which is at 
> the lowest point, and tape it onto the hose  - then starting at the ends, 
> opening and closing faucets, valves until I have pulled all the water out of 
> the lines -  I think this works better than blowing. On my 39, I hung it up 
> under the chart table next to the hull, never knew it was there.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
> 
> On Fri, Oct 20, 2023 at 9:36 AM Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Wet vacs are great. Especially on a boat.  I use a Rigid Brand 18v cordless 
> one for the boat. Small and easily fits in a cockpit locker on our 30. 
> Especially helpful this year when I was rewiring and the bilge pump wasn't 
> connected.  It's ability to also blow air, works great when winterizing the 
> water system. 
> 
> Roy 
> Minion, 30 mk 1 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

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Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

And then of course there are the French Press or Pour Over devices that use hot 
water from the stove, no electric power, and make a much superior cup of coffee 
(yes, I am a coffee snob).  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT


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Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C/now speed of tack turn

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am glad the subject of tacking a large genoa came up.  I have a great deal of 
trouble with my 145 genoa trying to get it so it does not require extensive 
winching.  What tends to happen is that the clew of the genoa folds back on 
itself at the mast as you come head to wind and then gets trapped against the 
new leeward shrouds with the clew on the inside of the fold (between the rest 
of the sail and the shrouds).  There is no way to pull it by hand to unfold it 
and we have to wait until the wind unfolds it once there is pressure and by 
then, the sheet is out too far, so I have to head up to take some pressure off 
to bring it in.  SLO!!  Turning slower seems to exacerbate the problem, and 
the only thing that has helped is to wait until the sail is fully backwinded 
before releasing, as it comes across faster that way and is less likely to be 
trapped.  Anyone have a hint as to what (if anything) we are doing wrong?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 12, 2023, at 12:59 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I second Charlie's points about the timing; it took my a while to learn to 
> turn the wheel more slowly to allow the trimmers to get the line in!
> 
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
> Richard
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, September 12, 2023 at 11:39:43 AM EDT, cenelson--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I still have the original headsail winches on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb--Lewmar 
> 50s self-tailing 2 speed IIRC--although I moved them forward for my local 
> racing needs.  I also added a set of Lewmar 44s to make kite handling more 
> reasonable. If this combination of 'power' is not enough, I need to get drop 
> my sails and get into port somewhere!!
> 
> However, even these winches for the genoa can seem to be underpowered if the 
> helm is not in tune with the headsail as it crosses the boat. I find it 
> especially important to not turn the boat too fast during the tack. The helm 
> needs to turn the wheel slowly, especially within say +/- 10-15 degrees of 
> head to wind, before the genoa begins to fill on the new tack. 
> 
> This will allow most of the new active sheet to be brought in hand over hand 
> with very little pressure on it so that when it fills, there is only a few 
> feet to winch in with a handle. 
> 
> I have found that with a 155% headsail, a 'quick' tack is usually a bad one 
> since the grinders have to seriously grind in too much line with the genoa 
> filled. This is a good example of using better 'timing' during the tack to 
> reduce the serious winching required otherwise. If you are racing, climbing 
> back to close-hauled from a tack that was too fast with the genoa too far out 
> loses a lot of ground to windward to your competitors on every 'fast' tack.
> 
> BTW, if you add/replace any winches be mindful of where you mount them. My 
> cockpit was originally set up more for cruising so the headsail winches were 
> aft in the cockpit. As I did more club racing, in order to have room in the 
> cockpit for flying a masthead symmetrical kite, I had to move them forward 
> and add a set (44s) to handle the kite. I think the original thought was to 
> fly the kite from winches on the cockpit bulkhead either side of the 
> companionway which were Lewmar 30s. This turned out to be totally 
> underpowered for my kite AND it concentrated too many bodies together at the 
> companionway in each other's way most of the time. Further, even when I moved 
> the 30s to the cockpit coaming aft of the headsail winches, I found the 30s 
> to be underpowered for my kite--thus I replaced them with the 44s. 
> 
> Until I added the 44s, we tried to use the headsail winches for the kite 
> which had plenty of power--however, moving the kite and genoa sheets during 
> racing was much too confusing and time consuming.
> 
> FWIW
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Long Island sound

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The best sandwich shop in the world (IMHO) is in Sag Harbor right near the 
bridge and marina: Espresso.  Great place to visit if you like looking at 
Yachts and fancy cars.  We have been making annual trips there for for 
breakfast, lunch or dinner for 20+ years.  I guess I am going to have to 
compare the one on Shelter Island (Maria’s Kitchen? Vine St. Cafe?) when we are 
there next month.  Last time we were in Sag Harbor they were greatly expanding 
the slip space controlled by the harbormaster, so there should be a lot more 
flexibility if you want a slip (moorings as well and anchorage outside the 
harbor).  Depending on your timing, the New London Maritime Festival is coming 
up Sept 9-10 (https://visitnewlondon.org/ct-maritime-heritage-festival/).  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Aug 29, 2023, at 2:18 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a good time checking out mystic seaport museum and actually didn't plan 
> enough time.  We also skipped over to shelter island and happened to catch 
> the whaling days celebration.  It was fun.  There is an awesome sandwich shop 
> in the center of town. 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+ 
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> Aug 29, 2023 11:55:05 Joel Aronson via CnC-List :
> 
> We will be travelling from Mystic through LIS next month.Are there any 'must 
> see' places between Mystic and Port Washington on either shore?
> 
> -- 
> Joel
> Hylas 49 Rule One
> formerly C 35 The Office  
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

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Stus-List Re: Long Island sound

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Joel- I second most of those suggestions with some amendments.  Watch Hill 
is very nice but it is a very long motor through a narrow winding passage to 
get there. You have to be very careful navigating it.  Lovely spot once you do. 
 I would do that only if time is not an issue.  If you are thinking of going up 
the CT river, Hamburg Cove is reputed to be one of the nicest spots on the CT 
coast.   I have only been there by bicycle, but it is a great biking area and 
looks lovely.  Depending on your timing, North Cove near the entrance to the CT 
River in Old Saybrook is a nice spot where you can pick up any free mooring.  
Not much nearby, however, but great people at North Cove YC if you have 
privileges.   Of course, I have to suggest New London for its cheap moorings 
and great people at TYC, good anchorages nearby, as well as Coast Guard square 
rigger, periodic submarines, good restaurants and lively music and art scene.  
Down side is ferry wakes from 6AM until midnight.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Aug 29, 2023, at 1:38 PM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joel,
>  
> Hello. We have lived in Mystic for the past 25 years and love cruising in 
> Fishers and Long Island Sounds. Here are some of our Favorites:
>  
> Watch Hill and Napatree Point- Anchorage or Watch Hill YC moorings inside and 
> the area’s best beach on the other side. You can dinghy into the beach and 
> walk over to the ocean side or you can go into the town and if you have 
> reciprocal use the club dock or there is a town dinghy dock as well.
> West Harbor Fishers Island-amazing anchorage or let me know in advance and I 
> may be able to get you use of a mooring.
> Montauk- once inside the Montauk Lake it is amazing-great anchorage-great 
> seafood restaurants on both sides of the harbor entrance. Bus ride will bring 
> you out to the lighthouse on the point with great beach.
> 3 Mile -Great half way point when going from Montauk to Shelter, nice 
> anchorage with great restaurants and an easy uber to East Hampton if you want 
> to visit the town
> West Neck/Coecles Harbor-Shelter- two great anchorages that we love. West 
> Neck has a great restaurant called Salt with an outside tiki bar. Coecles has 
> the Rams Head Inn that is nice spot to dinghy into for a cocktail.
> Deering Harbor on Shelter-numerous sources for moorings including Shelter 
> Island YC. Nice little town and a two minute ferry ride gets you over to 
> Greenport which is a large town, with super market etc.
>  
> Feel free to send any questions! And if you need dockage in Mystic, I am the 
> dock master at Ram Island YC in Noank, on the Mystic River.
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> 1979 36-1
> Mystic, CT
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2023 11:54 AM
> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Long Island sound
>  
> We will be travelling from Mystic through LIS next month.Are there any 'must 
> see' places between Mystic and Port Washington on either shore?
>  
> -- 
> Joel
> Hylas 49 Rule One
> formerly C 35 The Office  
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Bottom paint- Pettit Black Widow

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had my boat painted with Pettit Black Widow this spring after hearing some 
positive comments about it from members of this list.  I wanted to report back 
to others considering it that my diver says my boat has had the cleanest bottom 
in the mooring field all season.  He has dropped the cleaning frequency from 
every 2 weeks to every 3 weeks and still has very little cleaning to do even 
with that.  He is now convinced and telling other owners how good that paint is 
(in our area at least).  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT


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Stus-List Re: C Yanmar 3GM 20hp Exhaust Elbow

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi chuck. What made you decide to replace it?  Problems or trying to prevent 
them?  Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 16, 2023, at 7:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That SS kit looks really nice if it matches your engine. 
>  
> FWIW, it wouldn't match my Universal M4-30.  So I'm replacing the exhaust 
> riser mixing elbow with the same thing that lasted for 34 years.  It has an 
> iron 3 bolt flange at the engine, iron pipe nipples and aluminum casting for 
> the elbow made by Barr.  It's much more compact than a SS aftermarket elbow 
> would be.  Parts should arrive in a few days.  I may get some SS nipples for 
> it, if they're not too pricey.
>  
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>> On 07/16/2023 7:12 PM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>  
>>  
>> Hello Yanmar 3GM owners,
>> I need to replace the U-type mixing elbow and exhaust elbow assembly on my 
>> 3GM 20hp.  If this topic has been discussed here previously, my apologies -- 
>> I attempted a search of the archives but not sure I am conducting the search 
>> correctly.
>> There seems to be debate about stainless steel vs cast iron and welded SS vs 
>> cast SS.  There is a complete SS kit at 
>> https://hdimarine.net/product/gm-kit/ that appears to be high quality and 
>> reasonably priced (for a boat part...).  I will be grateful for any advice 
>> on source for the exhaust elbow/mixing elbow and cast iron vs SS vs cast SS. 
>>  Also, advice regarding the replacement job as I will do this myself.  
>> Thanks.
>> Jeff Laman
>> 1981 C Harmony
>> Ludington, MI
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help. 
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

When i replaced my fuel pump i used gassola on the threads of the nipples.  In order to get the nipples in the right orientation i could not tighten them down hard. If using pipe dope does it matter?  DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jul 15, 2023, at 12:03 PM, Gary Newton via CnC-List  wrote:GM Stainless Steel Mixing Elbowhdimarine.netSent from my iPhoneOn Jul 15, 2023, at 11:59, Gary Newton  wrote:Supplier for exhaust /mixing elbow.GM Stainless Steel Mixing Elbowhdimarine.netSent from my iPhoneOn Jul 15, 2023, at 11:57, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  wrote:




White teflon will not seal gas or lubricants.  I use yellow Rector seal #5 with reliable results.


Get 
Outlook for Android

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 7:20:59 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
 



FWIW, I worked as an HVAC mechanic and know there are teflon tapes rated specifically for Gas.  But the only time I used teflon tape is when threads were damaged and I followed up with Megaloc on top of it.  I
 never like using tape as threads of tape can wind up clogging valves downstream. 
I never liked using teflon as tape or paste as I found leaks later.


  

Megaloc works on everything including fuel, water, gas, gasoline, oxygen, acids, etc.  My company wound up specifying it for all situations and it paid off in the long run.  It's good stuff.


  

C 

On 07/15/2023 10:08 AM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  wrote:

  
  

I will be very interested in this discussion as I plan to replace my exhaust riser assembly soon.  I recently had a propane gas line installed in my house and the technician cringed at the telfon tape used on the existing pipe.  Not the same thing of course,
 but never would have expected teflon tape does not meet building code! 

  

Also, if anyone reading this thread has a source recommendation for an exhaust riser/mixing elbow supplier, I would be grateful.  Engine is a 1981 Yanmar 3GM 20 hp (not the 30 hp as in many boats).


  

Jeff Laman 

1981 C Harmony 

Ludington, MI 
  

From: Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2023 10:01 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Stus-List Re: pipe dope for Exhaust Riser
  


I use Teflon tape on the pipe threads. A couple of wraps is good. 


Douglas Mountjoy 
1988 LF 39 
Mexico at large 
1984 Sabre 34 
Port Orchard, WA 
    



On Sat, Jul 15, 2023, 06:30 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:




Here's a question for the mechanics in the group.


  

I am replacing the engine's exhaust riser or mixing elbow and associated threaded 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" nipples, and want to use the right pipe dope that can handle the heat and make a good seal and hopefully make
 it easier to take apart for the next person. 

  

I've been adised to use Never-Sieze on the bolts holding the flange and want to use Megaloc by Hercules on the pipe threads, but don't see any temperature stats on the can. 


  

Any suggestions? 

  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R Annapolis


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:

https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Thanks for your help. 
Stu 


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:

https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks for your help. 
Stu 



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

As I have thought about this and tried to come up with a cause, another data 
point occurred to me about the sequence of events.   The stall has happened on 
3 occasions on three different days in the last few weeks and not on 5-6 other 
occasions under similar conditions.  In each of the cases where the engine 
stalled, it always happened within the first minute after starting the engine.  
In each case, the engine started and then stalled several times ( run for about 
10 seconds then stall, repeat 2-3 times) and then after waiting a few minutes, 
it started and ran fine for extended periods.  Those symptoms seem like limited 
fuel getting to the engine causing the stall, but I don’t see how they can be 
fuel filter related.  But I realize that I always left the key switch on and 
thus the fuel pump running between start attempts.  Any way they could be fuel 
pump related in the sense of it running for a while (warming up or purging air) 
while waiting to restart? Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 28, 2023, at 8:53 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> This may be a long shot, but on a Universal M3-20B that I installed on a club 
> launch, and I think all Universals, the fuel pump gets its power under normal 
> running conditions via an oil pressure switch.  When starting the engine, the 
> glow plug switch energizes the electric fuel pump in addition to the glow 
> plugs (you can hear it clicking when you press the glow plug switch), but 
> once the oil pressure rises it closes the oil pressure switch and keeps the 
> fuel pump running when you let up on the glow plug switch.  Incidentally the 
> reason you hear the pump running after you shut the engine off is that it 
> takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to drop to the point where the 
> switch opens. 
> 
> I ran in to a problem with that engine when sludge got in to the connection 
> to the oil pressure switch and kept it from closing properly, and thus the 
> fuel pump intermittently stopped running and stalled the engine. Until I 
> found the real problem I put a relay powered by the engine on/off key switch 
> that powered the fuel pump directly, but when I flushed the oil switch a few 
> times it cured the problem.
> 
> Not sure how relevant this may be to your issues, but may be of interest.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> On 6/27/2023 12:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify things.  I 
>> have had the engine quit several more times, but with no consistency as to 
>> when or why it happens. We were on a cruise recently and used it often and 
>> for long periods going in and out of harbors.  Mostly it worked fine but had 
>> it stall several times: start and run for a few minutes, then stall, restart 
>> then stall, restart then stall, then run fine for 20 min or more.  This 
>> happened in two separate situations a few days apart but no stall several 
>> other times.  In all cases, it has eventually restarted and ran for extended 
>> periods.  These intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose in my 
>> experience.  This seems most likely to be a fuel related issue so now I am 
>> trying to fully understand the fuel system.
>> 
>> I installed a Racor 500 unit last summer with a T-handle vacuum gauge on 
>> top.  Fuel goes from the tank, through the shutoff lever to the Racor, then 
>> to the fuel pump, then to the secondary and on to the engine.  If I 
>> understand this correctly, the gauge on the Racor unit will measure 
>> restriction in the fuel flow upstream of the gauge, ie the primary (30 µm in 
>> my case). I know the gauge works because if you partially shut off the 
>> fuel lever, you see the gauge gradually increase in vacuum reading.  But it 
>> seems that it will not tell you if the secondary is plugged. 
>> 
>> 1. I don’t see how the secondary (10 µm in my case) could be plugged if the 
>> primary is fine but I guess not impossible.   My temptation is to replace 
>> the secondary since the primary is not showing any sign of being plugged 
>> (from the gauge), but I don’t see how this could lead to an infrequent 
>> intermittent stall.
>> 2.  Fuel pump problem (loose wire etc.)?  You can hear the fuel pump running 
>> when the engine is off and I have never heard it stop or pause.  Can fuel 
>> pumps fail like this?  Can that lead to an intermittent stall?
>> 3.  Air getting into fuel line- seems possible, but I don’t see how that can 
>> be the cause if the engine runs for an hour continuously once restarted.
>> 
>> Any ideas welcome!  Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>&g

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Universal M4-30

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 27, 2023, at 6:47 PM, Josh via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Please remind us what engine you have. 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have a Whale low profile (non-automatic) pump stuck vertically in the bilge.  
It gets most of the water out of the narrow deep bilge on the 34+.  It has 
worked great for many years.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT




Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify things.  I 
have had the engine quit several more times, but with no consistency as to when 
or why it happens. We were on a cruise recently and used it often and for long 
periods going in and out of harbors.  Mostly it worked fine but had it stall 
several times: start and run for a few minutes, then stall, restart then stall, 
restart then stall, then run fine for 20 min or more.  This happened in two 
separate situations a few days apart but no stall several other times.  In all 
cases, it has eventually restarted and ran for extended periods.  These 
intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose in my experience.  This seems 
most likely to be a fuel related issue so now I am trying to fully understand 
the fuel system.

I installed a Racor 500 unit last summer with a T-handle vacuum gauge on top.  
Fuel goes from the tank, through the shutoff lever to the Racor, then to the 
fuel pump, then to the secondary and on to the engine.  If I understand this 
correctly, the gauge on the Racor unit will measure restriction in the fuel 
flow upstream of the gauge, ie the primary (30 µm in my case). I know the 
gauge works because if you partially shut off the fuel lever, you see the gauge 
gradually increase in vacuum reading.  But it seems that it will not tell you 
if the secondary is plugged. 

1. I don’t see how the secondary (10 µm in my case) could be plugged if the 
primary is fine but I guess not impossible.   My temptation is to replace the 
secondary since the primary is not showing any sign of being plugged (from the 
gauge), but I don’t see how this could lead to an infrequent intermittent stall.
2.  Fuel pump problem (loose wire etc.)?  You can hear the fuel pump running 
when the engine is off and I have never heard it stop or pause.  Can fuel pumps 
fail like this?  Can that lead to an intermittent stall?
3.  Air getting into fuel line- seems possible, but I don’t see how that can be 
the cause if the engine runs for an hour continuously once restarted.

Any ideas welcome!  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo 
(https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W 
panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2 
batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with the 
separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging issues.  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.  
> 
> I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
> controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
> don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Pete W.
> Siren Song 
> ‘90 C 30-2
> Irvington, Va.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness x 2

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Karl- I agree with Neil that it sounds like transmission, but I have not had 
that problem so no personal experience.  

As long as we are onto other engine strangeness, my M4-30 dies routinely when 
shifting from neutral to reverse at minimum throttle unless I kick the rpm up a 
bit.  I suspect it is a combination of the Max Prop and engine rpm set a bit 
low.  I have to be very careful to come into slips slowly, but I always do that 
anyway.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 13, 2023, at 7:30 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> AT4's are known to be susceptible to internal shorts in the ignition coil.  
> If it sits for 15 minutes or so then restarts, that may be one culprit.
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Jun 13, 2023 at 12:42 AM Karl Kuzis via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Since we are on stories of oddness I have 2.
> 
> First, when cruising along at modest rpm, will have a sudden shut down. Just 
> off. No change in sound, smell, rpm, etc just as if ignition switch cut out. 
> Suspecting a loose connection I proofed all wires / connections and we'll 
> test it out cruising around next week. Any odd ideas to keep in mind?
> 
> Second, episodically when motoring at higher rpm close to hull speed will 
> have a sudden racing of the engine with loss of power. Pull back throttle, 
> and goes back to normal but not unusual to reoccur. Haven't noticed it at 
> lower speed or rpm.
> I'm suspicious of cavitation but haven't thought it thru as to causes, tests 
> of theory, remedies or other options. Thoughts?
> 
> C 29 Mark 1 with a recently rebuilt Atomic 4 and 2 bade folding prop.
> 
> Karl Kuzis 
> Firefly 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

d the fuel and voila, no 
> more fuel pick up issues.
> 
> Fast forward to 1999 and I am motoring our recently acquired C 43 along the 
> same route.  When the truck from Chicago arrived, we had her unloaded at a 
> Lake Union boat yard.  After 3 months of repair and upgrade work the boat was 
> ready to leave but the mast was still in the paint shed so we motored off 
> without a mast.  Didn't need to open any bridges and was relaxed about 
> restarting in the locks and heading west. (The anchoring gear was ready to go 
> this time.)  When we got to our Shilshole Bay Marina slip I contacted the 
> fuel cleaning guy and had the tank thoroughly cleaned and the fuel polished 
> to be ready for my next trip with the mast up and its 70' air draft.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
> 
> Greta
> 1956 Matthews 42
> Port Ludlow
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2023 12:47 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> 
> mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
>  
> So the problem has not recurred in several hours of motoring over a few days 
> so i am going to write it off as launch day blues. No water in separator. 
> Fuel pressure gauge normal.  I cant see that i can do anything about it 
> unless it keeps happening. Thanks for the ideas. Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:41 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I once had a similar engine issue.  It would run fine one day (or half) and 
>> constant stall upon or shortly after restarts.  It turned out that my Racor 
>> was not full tightened.  Easy fix once found.
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>
>> 
>>> On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored 
>>> out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for 
>>> wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a 
>>> bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level 
>>> in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF?  Dave
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

So the problem has not recurred in several hours of motoring over a few days so i am going to write it off as launch day blues. No water in separator. Fuel pressure gauge normal.  I cant see that i can do anything about it unless it keeps happening. Thanks for the ideas. DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Jun 9, 2023, at 11:41 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:I once had a similar engine issue.  It would run fine one day (or half) and constant stall upon or shortly after restarts.  It turned out that my Racor was not full tightened.  Easy fix once found.
-Paul E.1981 C Landfall 38 S/V Johanna RoseFort Walton Beach, FLhttp://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  wrote:On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF?  DavePlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Engine strangeness

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored out 
of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for wind. 
Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a bit 
longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level in racor 
look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF?  Dave

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

This is what I bought an auto parts store ages ago:

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-Belt-Tension-Jack/dp/B008FM8BM4 


David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On May 14, 2023, at 5:07 PM, Josh via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Its called a belt jack. 
> 
> https://a.co/d/4EN0JIj 
> 
> I originally got mine from my Dad.  Never knew where he got it.  I assume 
> some auto parts store.  After tightening the belt on my Yanmar I proceeded to 
> test start the the engine.  An unusual and loud metallic sound ensued, upon 
> which I immediately realized I had forgotten to remove the jack.  Ugh!  Well 
> it broke the shoe off of one side of the jack and I was left searching for a 
> replacement.  Why google searches for "v-belt tension tool" don't work I have 
> no idea.  Google "belt jack" and it immediately comes up. 
> 
> I did repurchase and also found a welder friend to reattach the broken shoe.  
> Now I have 2.  Swing by Solomons, MD and we can arrange for something. 
> 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+ 
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> May 14, 2023 15:54:00 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List :
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive) tool 
> that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt.
> 
> 
> The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the 
> alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third to 
> tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the procedure 
> to be completed single-handedly.
> 
> 
> I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some 
> similar outlet.
> 
> 
> I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end, I 
> used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be able to 
> do it on my own.
> 
> 
> Could someone point me to this implement?
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Marek
> 
> 
> 1994 c270 ”Legato”
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: winch mounting project

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I finished my winch project yesterday and am quite happy with the result.  I 
used an aluminum plate as adapter as I had planned which I drilled and tapped 
for the Harken mounting holes.  Then I was able to reuse a number of the old 
through deck holes plus several new ones to mount the plate (bed-it butyl 
underneath).  I am not happy with the white epoxy I used to fill the 2 exposed 
old holes (you can see one just to the right of the winch).  What do others use 
to try to match the gelcoat and get a flat or textured surface?  Dave

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/9mkyprjmQSaSBLUrQY4lHw.CzlycRs1-zBDtkut0IoMkz
 




S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Now Repairing Awlcraft

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am in the same position, but I can’t blame it on a hurricane (my stupidity 
instead).  Had the topsides painted in 2021 with Awlcraft 2000 and it looked 
great.  Last mark of the last race of the season in 2021 I was single-handing 
and put the boat on autopilot to take the whisker pole down at the leeward 
mark.  Took longer than it should have and I was not paying attention and 
looked up to see the boat headed directly at the government nun buoy I was 
supposed to round.  Didn’t get back to the helm in time and hit it dead on 
(taking a chunk out of the bow under the roller) and then scraped along the 
starboard side, trashing my new paint job.  I installed an autopilot remote 
control (Madman Marine) last week to (hopefully) keep that from ever happening 
again.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 19, 2023, at 10:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Persistence looks great, BTW.
> 
> Here's Touche' after a complete topsides repaint in 2020.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=share_link
>  
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RRDsfvcZtg4qe6jV2c_uXDeEEfjf_jds/view?usp=share_link
>  
> 
> 
> I'll post pics of the repaired area in a couple weeks.  I'm hopeful the color 
> matches well.  That's the side of the boat that catches afternoon sun but 
> it's only been 2 1/2 years since it was painted.
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Apr 19, 2023 at 9:26 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Thanks Dennis
> 
>  
> 
> Be sure to post the after pics as well.
> 
>  
> 
> Glad to hear that you found a good painter since those are difficult to find. 
>  Also glad to hear that you are pleased with Awlcraft!
> 
>  
> 
> Mike
> 
>  
> 
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: April 19, 2023 11:12 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: NYYC AC40, Pensacola Bay and trip from Louisiana
> 
>  
> 
> Mike,
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

On the 34+, the perforated aluminum toe rail has relatively sharp edges.  It 
cuts through my cover ties every winter, so I suspect it would do the same to 
nylon line wrapped through it.  That is why I am looking into dyneema netting.  
I am surprised yours has lasted 10 years with paracord.  What are you wrapping 
around at deck level?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 2, 2023, at 8:24 AM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have used black paracord. Looks like new after 10 years. Northern climate.
> 
> Bruno Lachance 
> Bécassine 33-2
> New-Richmond, Qc
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPhone
> 
>> Le 2 avr. 2023 à 06:48, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>>  a écrit :
>> 
>> 
>> What line would you suggest would be best for a lifeline net?  Leechline?  
>> Lashing cord?  Paracord? 
>> 
>> Chuck S
>>> On 03/31/2023 10:14 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Here is what mine looks like:
>>> 
>>> http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/net.jpg 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> 
>>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>> 
>>> Kent Island MD USA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> Thanks for your help. 
>>> Stu
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

To clarify:  I am very safety conscious as a mostly solo sailor.  I have 
jacklines and safety tether on my boat, but I usually only deploy them when I 
know it is going to be rough.  It is hard to set up in the middle of a race 
when you were expecting mild conditions.  Like Chuck, I have a setup for 
re-boarding the boat from the water.  I have a line loop attached to the 
transom boarding ladder which I could use to pull it down from the water.  But 
that would only be useful at the mooring/anchor as there is no way I would be 
able to get to that position on a moving boat.   Frequently, I go forward with 
no tether in calmer conditions.  So for safety mesh, I am thinking about a 
situation where the weather is fine, but I lose balance, fall and roll on a 
tilted deck and I don’t know whether the lifelines and stanchions would stop me 
rolling overboard.  Plus, I have a dog periodically on board and soon a 
grandchild.  

Following on one suggestion, I found that you can purchase dyneema mesh in 
custom size to attach to the lifelines.  The advantage over nylon is it is 
smaller in diameter for the same strength with less wind resistance than nylon. 
  I am looking into how to attach it and will report back if I go ahead with 
this approach.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 30, 2023, at 4:27 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The few times I’ve sailed single handed on my boat, I kept my Edson One Step 
> boarding ladder on deck hooked to midships stanchions near the gate.  I then 
> keep a line attached to the One step that hangs overboard at a height that 
> could be easily reached with me in the water with an inflated PFD (ever tried 
> to raise your arms above your shoulders with an inflated PFD?  Not an easy 
> task..)
> Fortunately, I’ve never had to test it out in an emergency.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> ’83 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: Barry McKee via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2023 2:35 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe'  <mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>; virb...@cogeco.ca 
> <mailto:virb...@cogeco.ca>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting
>  
> A PFD safety harness, tether and jackline might be a better alternative.
>  
> Barry McKee
> Discovery II
> Burlington, ON
>  
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>] 
> Sent: 28-Mar-23 2:03 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting
>  
> I find it very useful to keep dogs, kids, and sails on deck. An adult is much 
> more likely to go over the top.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2023 1:46 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Lifeline safety netting
>  
> Since I sail often single/double handed, I am thinking about adding lifeline 
> safety netting to my boat.  It seems like it might be useful to prevent 
> rolling off the deck into the water (ie. death).  Never having fallen off a 
> boat, I am not sure if it is really worth it and if there are many scenarios 
> where these might prevent disaster.  Does anyone have experience about the 
> pro/cons of doing this?  Thanks- Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Lifeline safety netting

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Since I sail often single/double handed, I am thinking about adding lifeline 
safety netting to my boat.  It seems like it might be useful to prevent rolling 
off the deck into the water (ie. death).  Never having fallen off a boat, I am 
not sure if it is really worth it and if there are many scenarios where these 
might prevent disaster.  Does anyone have experience about the pro/cons of 
doing this?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: winch mounting project

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback.  You guys always have great thoughts!
 
I thought of a third option but not sure if it helps.  I could possibly swap 
the other starboard cabin top winch for a self-tailer and reroute the main 
halyard.  I think I have more room there to mount it there, but will have to 
measure when I get a chance.

As to why do this- I agree that it is not a critical upgrade and don’t want to 
make it into a big project.  I can raise the main as others indicate.  There 
are two situations where I think it would make things easier.  First, there are 
times when I think I get the halyard tight enough, but later realize while 
sailing that it is too slack.  It would be much easier to keep it on the 
self-tailing winch and tweak than without having to tail at the same time when 
it requires a lot of force.  Second, in several single-handed races with high 
winds, I have sailed the upwind leg with reefed main and then had a long 
downwind leg where I would have liked to shake out the reef and then re-reef 
for the next upwind leg.  That would be much easier to do with the halyard 
already in the self-tailer.  

Charlie- Thanks for the info on number of threads to hold a bolt in place. I 
wondered if that information existed and now I know.  I am still thinking 
aluminum over starboard for strength but will investigate further.  I also 
agree with Ted’s point that this mounting would not require a second person to 
hold the nut if it need to be removed.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Mar 11, 2023, at 6:36 PM, Ted Drossos  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> I did a similar winch installation on my previous C 29-2. I mounted Barient 
> ST24 winches in place of the existing Barient 18's. Instead of using and 
> aluminum adapter, the ones I fabricated were made from 1/4" thick stainless 
> steel. I was concerned that tapping the aluminum would not be strong enough. 
> The new winches were primary winches and they would see higher loads than a 
> halyard winch would. A nice advantage was being able to remove the winches 
> for servicing without having another person hold the bolt head as I loosened 
> the nut from under the deck. 
> 
> Ted Drossos
> C 110
> Lady in Red
> 

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Stus-List winch mounting project

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I would love some feedback on a project since my initial plan went awry and 
hope others can help me from making any more mistakes.  I keep making small 
tweaks to make life easier for short-handed sailing.  Since I am usually alone, 
raising the main is a process.  I raise it most of the way by hand at the mast 
and have a clam cleat mounted there to hold it in place.  Then I feed the 
halyard through the blocks and then though the jammer on the coachroof and 
clamp it.  Then I use the winch to fully hoist and make adjustments.  The 
problem is that the only winch on the starboard side is a non-self tailing 
Barient 18.  Using that without someone to tail can be done, but is not easy 
and must be one handed.  

So I had to bright idea this winter to replace the winch with a self-tailing 
version to make adjustments easier once the sail is raised.  It seemed a 
relatively straightforward project at the time.  I have periodically had those, 
and I always assume the next one will be.  I found a used Harken winch in good 
condition at a reasonable price on Ebay and bought it and took it to the boat.  
I presumed I would have to redrill some holes to mount it, but did not realize 
how limited the space actually was. The new winch is not much larger, but 
enough to be a problem.  Because the winch is at the back of the coachroof, and 
behind the shower hatch, the space is very tight and I would not be able to fit 
all the screws of the new base, not to mention I would have to drill a new set 
of access points in the shower ceiling panel.

So two options:
1.  Try to find a comparably sized Barient 21 or 22 ST that has a smaller base 
(none have the same hole pattern).  I think one would fit, but have not found 
any used ones yet so those appear hard to find.
2.  Create an adapter plate.  My thought was to buy a round aluminum(?) stock 
plate the size of the new winch base.  Drill a set of countersunk holes 
matching the existing pattern and tap a set of holes for the new winch.  The 
plate would be held by the old through bolts.  The new by the tapped holes.  
This would raise the winch somewhat depending on the thickness of the plate.  
How thick to make it so the threads are sufficiently strong is a worry.  I 
don’t think the raised angle would be a problem, since genoa winches are much 
higher than the lead block and work fine.  

My temptation is to go with option 2.  Thoughts?  Thanks as always- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Racing at night

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs. white lights 
and night vision.  It reminded me to ask a question of those more experienced 
about night racing.  I have only done this a few times and found upwind 
steering at night to be a real challenge.  I normally steer by the genoa 
telltales.  In light, shifting winds which we inevitably encounter at the 
darkest hours, it is especially important to steer well to keep the boat 
moving, but it is hard.   We used a hand held spotlight to periodically check 
the telltales, but that destroys night vision.  Are there better solutions?  
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing datamarine speed transducer C 29 mk2

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I did exactly as described by Chuck a while back.  Sliced the plastic 
vertically with a saw blade and then pounded the sections loose.  Fortunately 
for me, the new one was the same size as the old one, so I did not have to cut 
a new hole.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Feb 20, 2023, at 12:37 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Had to replace depth and speed sensors back in 2012 and I believe after I got 
> the senors out, I had to cut the plastic sleeves to break them loose from the 
> hull.  Mine were flush mounted and faired in, so I think I ground away the 
> fairing using a dremel, and then used a hacksaw blade on a handle through the 
> hole, to slice the plastic sleeve, and then I pry ed them out individually. 
> 
> The tricky part for me was caused by the newer sleeves being a size larger, 
> so a friend gave me a tip.  You find a holesaw the same size as the exiting 
> hole and drill through some wood to make a pilot guide the same size as the 
> hole you want to enlarge.  Then you put the wood plug you made onto the pilot 
> bit of the larger holesaw pilot bit, and it will keep the bigger holesaw 
> centered and Bob's Your Uncle, you're all set.
> 
> Good luck.  Let us know how you make out.
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer 1989 C 34R, Annapolis  
>> On 02/20/2023 12:01 PM John Heaton via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hi folks - I’m looking to remove my original Data Marine instruments and wow 
>> did they find the most difficult place to install the depth and speed 
>> transducers. I’m going to leave the depth in and replace the speed 
>> transducer with a new airmar transducer. 
>> 
>> I’ve been able to unscrew the old transducer but it will not release. Does 
>> anyone know how they were installed (epoxy, 3m 5200) as they will not come 
>> out even when hitting the top with a rubber mallet. 
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Double on the Rocks
>> Toronto
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help. 
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Broken C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

My C 34+ came without bow chocks.  Not sure how the anchor lines were 
connected.  Garhauer created a set for me based on measurements and photos I 
provided.  Pretty easy installation and I have been very happy I added them.  
Cost was under $300 (9 years ago) for the set of two.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Jan 11, 2023, at 2:59 PM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looking for a lead to buy salvage stern chocks for a 1981 C 36-1.
> 
> Both port and starboard chocks were broken when Hurricane Ian drained all the 
> water out of Tampa Bay and left our boats hanging by the dock lines.
> 
> I've checked the usual suspects already: Holland Marine, Klacko, South Shore 
> Yachts, Sailorman. Any help you can offer is most appreciated.
> 
> Piccies:
> Port side broken stern chock 
> 
> Starboard broken stern chock 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> Davis Island Yacht Club
> Tampa, FL
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I can’t say I am terribly saddened.  Seaport Marina is the worst marina I have 
ever kept my boat at for the winter.  Bent my stanchions, scraped my paint, 
power never worked in yard, water never worked, claimed they were going to work 
on my transmission and never did.  I was there one winter and never went back.  
Across the river at Ft. Rachel marina had the opposite experience.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 28, 2022, at 7:02 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not Mystic Seaport:
> 
> Seaport Marine is across the Mystic River from downtown Mystic. Seaport 
> Marine is at 2 Washington St. and has a waterfront restaurant, Red 36, and a 
> retail store, Fighting Lady Tackle Co., according to its website.
> 
> Prestige Yacht Sales, which is also located at 2 Washington St., was among 
> the businesses consumed by the fire, Manfredi said.
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 1:40 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> As did I…what fire at the Seaport?
> 
>  
> 
> From: Richard Bush via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 10:46 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net ; Richard Bush 
> mailto:bushma...@aol.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires
> 
>  
> 
> John, what would cause something like that "open neutral" to happen so 
> suddenly?
> 
> I was able to attend the 2012 C rendezvous at Mystic and thoroughly enjoyed 
> it!
> 
> Thanks
> 
>  
> 
> Richard
> 
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
>  
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 
> 502-584-7255
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: John McCrea via CnC-List  >
> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net 
> Sent: Mon, Nov 28, 2022 10:39 am
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires
> 
> I was at the Mystic one last night. I live about a mile from downtown and my 
> boat is right across the river from Seaport Marine. When the explosions 
> started happening we rushed down. It was caused by an open neutral on the 
> power feed from the building to shore power to the boats in the water. It was 
> blowing hard as well and we were lucky to not lose more than we did.
> 
>  
> 
> John McCrea
> 
> Talisman
> 
> 1979 36-1
> 
> Mystic, CT
> 
>  
> 
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 10:30 AM
> To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Marina/boatyard fires
> 
>  
> 
> Couple of boatyard fires lately.  Seaport Marine in Mystic, CT and Seabrook 
> Marine in New Orleans.  Tough news.
> 
>  
> 
> --
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> 
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Joel
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> David Knecht

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

My wife and I did ours last winter with the boat leather.com version with the 
foam.  It was much easier as a two person job, but took us a while.  We would 
do about 2 feet of stitching each day and then got tired of it and would pick 
it up in a day or two so the project stretched out over a few weeks.  It became 
a winter ritual.  Very happy with the results.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Nov 28, 2022, at 12:02 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.  The 
> Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of stock.  
> Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there better 
> sources?
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> David Knecht

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I agree with much of what has been suggested. 
 I disagree on the Klein screwdriver.  I prefer the Lutz style where the all 
the tips are visible all the time. 
https://www.amazon.com/Lutz-21001-Ratchet-Screwdriver-Blue/dp/B00ZKQ8BJQ/ref=sr_1_35?crid=26LURHODN4JV0=multi+tip+screwdriver=1668109274=multi+tip+screwdriver%2Caps%2C82=8-35
 


 I also have a set of Alden wrenches that I love as I don’t need to know the 
size of the head/nut I am trying to loosen.  Not for really stuck nuts where 
shear power is needed, but great in tight spaces and for many less demanding 
applications.
https://www.suncoasttools.com/crm/VendorPages.aspx?Vendor=AldenWrenches 


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 9, 2022, at 2:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Basics:
> Tapes- Silicone repair, electrical/rigging and duct.
> For screwdrivers a Klein 11 in 1 and 4:1 stubby, #3 phillips and large flat 
> blade
> Channel locks, adjustable wrenches and box wrenches, SAE and metric, allen 
> wrenches SAE nd metric
> Crimpers Strippers
> Battery powered multi tool and drill, dremel
> Strap wrench
> sockets, SAE and metric
> and David's coat hanger!
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 2:34 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Do  not forget the most important one…
> 
>  
> 
> Wire Coat Hanger
> 
>  
> 
> From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2022 1:57 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Shawn Wright mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat
> 
>  
> 
> I carry a lot of tools, but did cull some of them after the first season, as 
> many were duplicates which came with the boat but were of inferior quality, 
> or were badly corroded.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a large plastic toolbox with: complete screwdriver set (plus a good 
> multi tip driver), (3 each of standard, philips and roberston, plus roberston 
> #0 for small trim screws). Complete wrench set both metric and SAE in a wrap. 
> A wrap of custom made wrenches for the boat, made for hard to access bits on 
> the engine, supplied by PO. Needle nose pliers, channel locks, side cutters, 
> crescent wrenches. Several metal files, hacksaw with spare metal cutting 
> blades. Set of allen keys. Small hammer. Tap and die set with common sizes 
> (full set I leave at home). 
> 
>  
> 
> In addition, I have a decent sized ratchet set in a case with 1/4, 3/8 and 
> 1/2" drive sockets both metric and SAE up to 22mm, along with torx and hex 
> sockets.
> 
>  
> 
> I also have 3 plastic bins with electrical tools (meter, soldering iron, 
> crimpers, etc), connectors and wire, although could probably cull down to 
> one, but I always seem to have several minor electrical mods on the todo 
> list. I would rate this category *very* highly, as it takes very little 
> space, but can make the difference when something electrical goes wrong. 
> 
>  
> 
> I also have a set of 18V tools (circular saw, recip saw, drill, hammer drill, 
> flashlight) that I use for projects, but keep only the drill and light aboard 
> when sailing. Good set of drill bits as well.
> 
>  
> 
> Spare parts for nearly everything: starter, alternator, engine belts, water 
> pump, impellers, glow plugs, engine coolant premixed, zincs for engine and 
> shaft, macerator pump, water pressure pump. Large assortment of SS fasteners, 
> shackles, etc. 
> 
>  
> 
> We have an electric dinghy motor which charges off solar, and the battery is 
> capable of starting the main engine in the event of total battery failure. So 
> far, I've only had to use it to jump start the car after leaving it for 
> several months... :)
> 
>  
> 
> Depends on where you sail, but we are often out 4-6 weeks at a time in fairly 
> remote areas, so being self-sufficient is important.
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Shawn Wright
> 
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 10:34 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat 
> and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if 
> anyone ever put together a list of 

Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I think I fixed the starting problem yesterday and it is still at once 
mysterious and satisfying.   I started by carefully checking all the power 
circuits after having gone over my circuit diagrams of how everything should be 
connected.  All seemed correct on the panel and I had 12+ V at all contacts.  
Pushed the start button and nothing.  I went to the engine to check the power 
at the starter solenoid and found the wire dangling from the solenoid spade 
fitting (impossible to see or get a hand in there).  I reattached the wire and 
tried again and the engine turned over and started right up.  In fact, it 
started quickly and easily.  So I think my primary problem is fixed and in the 
end, the engine works better than before, which is what I was hoping for.  I 
still don’t understand all the strange electrical issues I encountered along 
the way.  Maybe that wire was intermittently contacting the starter housing and 
maybe that created would have created a short.  I am not thrilled with the fact 
that a spade connector worked its way off over time.  Maybe a spade connector 
is not the right type of connection for something vibrating all the time with 
the engine running.  I don’t see a way to change the spade to something else 
unless someone has a suggestion.  I have not touched that area of the engine 
for several years so it was not something I did while installing the switches.  
But the loose spade might explain why I has having intermittent starting 
issues.  I will likely replace the spade fitting on the wire this 
winter/spring, but it is a really hard thing to get to without removing either 
the starter or the alternator so will leave that job for later.Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 20, 2022, at 1:37 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Occasionally you will get a push button that will not cooperate.  Worse case 
> scenario grab the back of the switch with water pump pliers or vice grips and 
> drill out the center of the switch. Start a little undersized as it is likely 
> that the switch will break off.
> 
> The push button will probably be able to be ripped off the switch with pliers 
> allowing you access to the center.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> COMP
> 1979 C 34
> Groton, CT
> 
> On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 11:46:20 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I took the boot off and tried to loosen the collar on the outside, but no 
> luck.  That is why I am not sure there isn't some hidden trick.  Sprayed it 
> with PB Blaster and will try again next time I am on the boat.  It is 
> possible that the PO put a different push button in, but I can't find 
> anything like that one in the Cole Hersey catalog.  The other push button and 
> the new ones all have boots that pop on. This one the boot seems more 
> securely attached, which might be more weather resistant.  I think the 
> outside collar actually trapped the rubber boot.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Oct 19, 2022, at 12:03 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi David,
>> 
>> That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it. As 
>> an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside metal 
>> with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good 
>> anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem.
>> 
>> Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have 
>> a different amperage rating than the other.
>> 
>> Best,
>> 
>> Carl
>> 
>> On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal 
>> M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem.  I had bought a new Cole 
>> Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement.  I was 
>> able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small 
>> amount of blood and pain).  However, I realized that the original push 
>> button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug 
>> button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round 
>> collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it.  The 
>> start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a 
>> rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside.  I 
>> have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is 
>> threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced 
>> to the body that

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Picture helps jog the memory.  That is exactly what the panel I have as well.  
I remember the needle bouncing a bit when I push the glow plug button, but I 
don’t think it went to 30.  Will have to check.  I am glad you reminded me of 
that article.  One thing I think I can do is run the orange power wire  
directly to the glow plug switch and see what happens.  The meters won’t work, 
but I presume the engine should crank.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 26, 2022, at 1:56 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My ammeter had numbers just like the picture of the control panel shown in 
> that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram. 
> 
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper for 
> the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two switches are 
> independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug button.  I don’t 
> remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t think my gauge has 
> numbers.  I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he discusses so that is 
> stock.  Dave
> 
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current from 
>> the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on the 
>> instrument panel and then back to the batteries?  I always felt that glow 
>> plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed 30 or 
>> more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed. 
>> 
>> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Here are a few answers to the comments:  
>> 
>> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same 
>> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to 
>> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault 
>> problem at some remote site that was not there before.  Things were 
>> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works.
>>  
>> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years ago, I 
>> replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt splice 
>> connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery switch, 
>> so the batteries are supposed to be isolated.
>> 
>> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries when 
>> the two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the engine, 
>> everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.  The 
>> meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then voltage 
>> slowly recovers over time.
>> 
>> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side of 
>> the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is measured 
>> relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing there 
>> except the switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something in 
>> terms of the problem, but I don’t know what.
>> Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel 
>>> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you 
>>> to know. 
>>>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To 
>>> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/>
>>> Dwight Veinot
>>> C 35 MKII, Alianna
>>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
>>> ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at 
>>> the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch 
>>> on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere 
>>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on bot

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper for 
the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two switches are 
independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug button.  I don’t 
remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t think my gauge has 
numbers.  I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he discusses so that is 
stock.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current from 
> the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on the 
> instrument panel and then back to the batteries?  I always felt that glow 
> plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed 30 or 
> more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed. 
> 
> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Here are a few answers to the comments:  
> 
> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same wires 
> but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to believe that 
> cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault problem at some 
> remote site that was not there before.  Things were generally working before 
> I did anything. Now nothing works.
>  
> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years ago, I 
> replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt splice 
> connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery switch, so 
> the batteries are supposed to be isolated.
> 
> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries when 
> the two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the engine, 
> everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.  The meter 
> goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then voltage slowly 
> recovers over time.
> 
> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side of 
> the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is measured 
> relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing there 
> except the switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something in terms 
> of the problem, but I don’t know what.
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel 
>> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you 
>> to know. 
>>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To 
>> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/>
>> Dwight Veinot
>> C 35 MKII, Alianna
>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
>> ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the 
>> input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, 
>> I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I 
>> am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that 
>> means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have 
>> worked on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces 
>> all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 
>> 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very 
>> strange is happening.  Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction. 
>>>  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get 
>>> a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with 
>>> now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, 
>>> glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get 
>>> start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back ne

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Here are a few answers to the comments:  

All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same wires 
but each terminal cleaned before attachment.   I find it hard to believe that 
cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault problem at some remote 
site that was not there before.  Things were generally working before I did 
anything. Now nothing works.
 
To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years ago, I 
replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt splice 
connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery switch, so 
the batteries are supposed to be isolated.

I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries when the 
two circuits are isolated by the ACR.  When I try to start the engine, 
everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings.  The meter 
goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then voltage slowly 
recovers over time.

I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side of the 
key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on.  That is measured relative 
to a ground terminal on the tachometer.  There is nothing there except the 
switch itself, right?  I am guessing that means something in terms of the 
problem, but I don’t know what.
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel 
> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you to 
> know. 
>  Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To 
> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/>
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net>
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
> ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the 
> input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, I 
> got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I am 
> presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that means 
> and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have worked 
> on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces all over 
> the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the 
> same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is 
> happening.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
>> Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
>> head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with 
>> now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, 
>> glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get 
>> start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next 
>> week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around 
>> but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. 
>> Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I 
>> guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check 
>> and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and 
>> checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key 
>> switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i 
>> measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and 
>> measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other 
>> devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems 
>> to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key 
>> switch was backwards?  Dave
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the 
input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, I 
got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I am 
presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that means 
and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have worked 
on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces all over 
the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the 
same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is 
happening.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
> Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
> head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now 
> and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow 
> plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out 
> so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no 
> response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. 
> Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring 
> and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are 
> supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and 
> misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and 
> checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key 
> switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i 
> measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and 
> measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other 
> devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems 
> to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key 
> switch was backwards?  Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Start panel mystery

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  
Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a 
head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now 
and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow 
plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out so 
gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no 
response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. 
Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring 
and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are 
supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered 
which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 
12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key switch and fuel pump 
starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine 
panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its 
inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an 
hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. 
What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave

Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I took the boot off and tried to loosen the collar on the outside, but no luck. 
 That is why I am not sure there isn't some hidden trick.  Sprayed it with PB 
Blaster and will try again next time I am on the boat.  It is possible that the 
PO put a different push button in, but I can't find anything like that one in 
the Cole Hersey catalog.  The other push button and the new ones all have boots 
that pop on. This one the boot seems more securely attached, which might be 
more weather resistant.  I think the outside collar actually trapped the rubber 
boot.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 19, 2022, at 12:03 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi David,
> 
> That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it. As 
> an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside metal 
> with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good 
> anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have 
> a different amperage rating than the other.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Carl
> 
> On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal 
> M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem.  I had bought a new Cole 
> Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement.  I was 
> able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small 
> amount of blood and pain).  However, I realized that the original push button 
> start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has 
> a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on 
> the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it.  The start button has 
> a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar 
> piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside.  I have been unable to 
> remove that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is 
> different as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not 
> found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen it.  Anyone have suggestions 
> on:
> 
> 1.  Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably 
> perform the same type of function?
> 2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like 
> a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)?
> 3.  How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart?
> 
> THanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: C 29 Mk1 tuning questions

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I followed a tuning guide that I think I got from the C photo album site.  I 
have rod rigging and a Loos gauge (used on Ebay).  Make sure vang and backstay 
are loose.  Set rake (about 12" from gooseneck) with forestay/furler, tune 
uppers, then mid then lowers.  I have now gone to Scar pins (wrap pins) that I 
got on Ebay instead of cotter pins/rings for the turnbuckles.  Makes adjusting 
much easier.  I have a fishing scale that I use to measure side to side 
distance with the main halyard to measure centering of the top of the mast that 
works reasonably well.  

Lowers: 0.25" #10 rod 12% of breaking-  35-40 Loos
Intermediates: #6 rod 0.198" 10% of breaking 15-20 Loos
Uppers: 0.25" #10 rod, 10% breaking= 35-40 Loos
 There is slack in the leeward shrouds upwind.
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 15, 2022, at 6:03 PM, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> We are new owners of Hull#45 "Firefly" and I am interested in hearing if any 
> one has a set of starting rig tension measurements you could share.
> 
> Loos Gauge numbers would be great.
> 
> Just replaced the headstay due to wire damage I found under the foil. (Wanted 
> to avoid burying bad wire under the new roller furling). Now working on 
> retuning the rig.
> 
> All insight and experience sharing welcome!
> 
> Respectfully, Karl 
> 
> Karl & Doris Kuzis 
> C 29 Mk1 "Firefly"

Stus-List Engine panel button/switch replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal 
M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem.  I had bought a new Cole Hersee 
key switch and two push button switches for the replacement.  I was able to 
replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small amount of 
blood and pain).  However, I realized that the original push button start 
switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has a 
rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on the 
outside and another nut on the inside to secure it.  The start button has a 
rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar piece 
with no knurling that secures it on the outside.  I have been unable to remove 
that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is different 
as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not found a tool 
thin enough to get to it and loosen it.  Anyone have suggestions on:

1.  Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably 
perform the same type of function?
2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like a 
bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)?
3.  How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart?

THanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

This is not that kind of filter.  It is a wire screen for large particulates to 
protect the pump.  But in answer- I don’t drink or cook with the water from the 
tanks. Just used for washing and showering.  I gave up on trying to maintain 
tank water many years ago and keep liter bottles of water in the sink that I 
refill from home.  Our usage is not high.  I won’t even use the Yacht Club 
water because there is a large cluster of Parkinson’s Disease at the club and 
they are all people who grew up in New London.  No idea if it is the water, but 
not worth the risk.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:36 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Are you brave enough to drink water from your fresh water tanks or even cook 
> food with it?  Filter or not it's good for washing dishes and showering. 
> Quality potable in those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe. Take the 
> filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update the 
> discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to replace the 
> new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the new one without 
> removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same thing which made me 
> convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came when I realized that air 
> was getting into the system because the water coming out of the tap had 
> frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem was in the inflow because the 
> pressure that the pump generated was maintained in the outflow system for 
> many days.  I did not think the problem was in the tank lines since they were 
> not leaking water.  The manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then 
> centered on the filter between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out 
> of the line and the pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not 
> sure where the filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal 
> between the housing and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has 
> changed radically in what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the 
> first to have problems with it.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after installation.
>> 
>> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
>> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
>> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>>  
>> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with the 
>> t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my problems 
>> went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant 
>> amount of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just 
>> before the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the 
>> existing one in place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.   
>> Dave
>> 
>> David Knecht
>> Rear Commodore
>> Thames Yacht Club
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List >> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer. 
>>>  I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I 
>>> know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and 
>>> looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a 
>>> company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to 
>>> install and clean periodically.
>>>  
>>> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb 
>>> In-Line Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI 
>>> RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific 
>>> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FStrainer-Twist-Sprayer-

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update the 
discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to replace the 
new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the new one without 
removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same thing which made me 
convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came when I realized that air 
was getting into the system because the water coming out of the tap had 
frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem was in the inflow because the 
pressure that the pump generated was maintained in the outflow system for many 
days.  I did not think the problem was in the tank lines since they were not 
leaking water.  The manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then centered on 
the filter between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out of the line 
and the pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not sure where the 
filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal between the housing 
and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has changed radically in 
what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the first to have problems 
with it.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after installation.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>  
> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with the 
> t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my problems 
> went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant amount 
> of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just before 
> the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the existing one in 
> place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.   Dave
> 
> David Knecht
> Rear Commodore
> Thames Yacht Club
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer.  
>> I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I 
>> know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and 
>> looks like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a 
>> company with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to 
>> install and clean periodically.
>>  
>> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb In-Line 
>> Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI RV Camper 
>> Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific 
>> <https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FStrainer-Twist-Sprayer-Filter-Camper%2Fdp%2FB094NQNVMF%2Fref%3Dsr_1_6%3Fkeywords%3Dwater%2Bstrainer%2Bmarine%26qid%3D1662487937%26sr%3D8-6=05%7C01%7C%7Cbaa3cbdbc7034bec4ca108da90437baf%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637980916769956902%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=YW1oO0aQP2GFx8FeHiKf%2BCIc%2FY8nbDJqDozcsV%2BvIDQ%3D=0>
>>  
>> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
>> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>>  
>> Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far 
>> end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it 
>> up.
>>  
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie PA
>>  
>> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm 
>>> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure 
>>> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure 
>>> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support 
>>> said to do this:
>>>  
>>> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is 
>>> too clea

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the input.  I have 110 and 145 laminate genoas.  In the past, 
with >2 crew, I used the 145 until Fall when the winds were strong, but as I 
have done more and more single-handed racing (non-spinnaker) in the last few 
years, I found the 110 was much easier to handle upwind, so I am currently 
rated for that sail (133 vs. 121 for the larger).  I agree that speed is not 
significantly compromised upwind (much to my surprise) when it blows 8-10 or 
more.  I have done quite well racing with the 110.  It is downwind where I was 
wondering if the larger sail would have advantages.  If increased speed 
downwind was significant, it might overcome the disadvantage of the sail shape 
and wind disruption of partial furling upwind.  Certainly wing on wing, I would 
think the larger sail would be significantly faster, but haven’t tested that 
yet.  When I get a chance, I will try with the full sail and then partially 
furl and see if I can detect a speed difference.  As a scientist, I know that 
data rules, so I need to get some, unless someone has done this already.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 12, 2022, at 4:18 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When I was still racing, I used non-furling sails. I started with a 152; then 
> switched to a 135, and finally to a 110. Each switch gave me a higher PHRF 
> rating. Switching to a 135 gave me six seconds more, and the 110 gave me an 
> additional three seconds. Going from a 135 to a 110 cost me very little 
> speed, but I pointed higher, more than making up for the slightly lower 
> speed. More often than not I was first to the windward mark. Off the wind I 
> used a spinnaker, so I didn't need a larger jib.
> 
> In answer to your question, I have a furling genoa with foam sandwiched 
> between sailcloth layers (near the luff). I can sail with the furled genoa 
> and still have good sail shape. It doesn't damage the sail, but furling on 
> the wind in heavy air is difficult. I can use a winch, but I have to be 
> careful not to get overrides. If you don't use a spinnaker, try using the 
> furled genoa and non-furled genoa, depending on wind conditions. If you have 
> a 110, try racing with that and get your PHRF rating increased. Another 
> advantage of the smaller sail is it's easier for the crew to get it all the 
> way.in <http://way.in/> much faster. Let us know how these suggestions work.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 12, 2022 at 7:12 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class 
> and he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.  
> He said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for 
> upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to 
> overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does 
> not have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on the 
> value/feasibility of this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It 
> certainly would be easier than putting on my smaller sail when winds are 
> questionable.  I worry about not only sail shape, but when partially furled, 
> the furler and genoa sheet are fighting each other, which might not be a good 
> thing for the furler.  Dave
>   
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Glow plugs

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I asked the list a while back about glow plugs (Universal M4-30) and whether 
they should be a periodic replacement item.  They should have been testable in 
place, but I had trouble getting reliable readings from the meter.  So I 
decided since they were not that expensive ($80 for 4) to just go ahead and 
replace them so I had a sense of the state of 30 year old glow plugs.  It 
turned out to be a pretty easy job as engine jobs go (about an hour).  The only 
hard part was finding a tool that would grab the circular knurled nuts on top 
that held the wires on (Vice grips worked).   The plugs themselves came out 
without too much trouble with a standard socket wrench.  The old plugs look 
well used, but not worn out and tested as good with a Volt-ohm meter (about 1 
ohms).  The new ones made no difference to starting the engine that I could 
detect.  It still takes about 15-30 seconds of glow plug (as the manual 
recommends) before it starts.  So from my experience, this is not an engine 
part that needs much concern or frequent replacement.  Also, since the plus 
sides are all wired together, my assumption is that if one failed (high 
resistance), the others would continue to work fine.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class and 
he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.  He 
said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for 
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to 
overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does not 
have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on the value/feasibility of 
this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It certainly would be easier 
than putting on my smaller sail when winds are questionable.  I worry about not 
only sail shape, but when partially furled, the furler and genoa sheet are 
fighting each other, which might not be a good thing for the furler.  Dave
  
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Eight Bells for Rob Ball

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Sad news indeed.  But what a wonderful legacy he leaves behind.  He left his 
mark on the world for years to come with the beauty, form and function of the 
boats he designed.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Sep 10, 2022, at 4:39 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That’s sad news. Aside from his obvious talent for designing beautiful boats 
> that sailed as well as they looked, he was a very nice guy. I found him very 
> generous with his time and happy to give advice on the several occasions I 
> asked.
> RIP, Rob.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Sep 10, 2022, at 02:10, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers, I regret to report that Pat Mangan Ball posted end-of-watch 9/9/22 
>> for Rob Ball, on the C Owners Facebook group 50 minutes ago.
>> 
>> Respectfully,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: Diesel fuel tank cap (Fuel Deck Fill)

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

None of those caps would work on my boat.  The thread diameter is different, so 
the entire unit would have to be replaced.  I have never seen a direct 
replacement for the C one.  Everyone who sees them thinks they are a great 
idea, except for the fact that no one else has them.  I always have to leave a 
winch handle out for the pumpout boat as they don’t have a winch handle aboard. 
 If I get to that point, I think a machinist or 3D printer would be my 
direction to pursue.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 8, 2022, at 11:02 AM, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I see rigrite.com also sells just the tops.
> 
> On 2022-09-07 18:29, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>> I replaced my OEM fuel deck fill with new one last year.
>> I found a stainless model that was winch handle operated, and not too 
>> pricey, but it was not a direct replacment.  You may do better, taking the 
>> cap to a metal fabricator and getting it retooled.
>> 
>> The one I bought was actually smaller in diameter than the OEM aluminum one. 
>>  I had to fill the hole in the fiberglass deck and drill to the right size, 
>> before installing the new fill unit.  I was reparing areas of the deck, so I 
>> had the material and tools to do it, plus I was painting the deck, so it 
>> became a small part of much larger project and turned out pretty nice.
>> 
>> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
>> 
>> 
>>> On 09/07/2022 3:52 PM Peter W. via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> My fuel cap requires a winch handle to open it, however, the “star” shaped 
>>> inset is badly worn, making it difficult to unscrew.  It is OEM and 30+ 
>>> years old (Perko brand), but I can’t find a suitable replacement.
>>> 
>>> Anyone found one?  Or, has anyone been able to refurbish theirs?
>>> 
>>> Pete W.
>>> Siren Song
>>> C 30-2
>>> Irvington, Va.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
>  Jeff Nelson
>  Muir Caileag
>  C 30 - 549
>  Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant amount 
of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just before the 
pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the existing one in 
place.  I cleaned the filter and there was not much there.   Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Sep 6, 2022, at 2:21 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If you have that much sludge, you may want to consider an in-line strainer.  
> I have one between my bilgewater intake and my diaphragm bilge pump, and I 
> know I’ve saved the pump from a lot of crud.  My strainer is simple and looks 
> like the product at the link below, but as I recall it was made by a company 
> with a marine presence (like Forespar or Surflow).  Very easy to install and 
> clean periodically.
>  
> 1/2 Inches Water Pump Strainer, Compatible with 3/8 Inches Hose Barb In-Line 
> Strainer Twist-On Pipe Sprayer Filter for Water Pump 12V DC 80 PSI RV Camper 
> Marine Boat Lawn (1): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific 
> <https://www.amazon.com/Strainer-Twist-Sprayer-Filter-Camper/dp/B094NQNVMF/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=water+strainer+marine=1662487937=8-6>
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2022 1:52 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>  
> Maybe you have a lot of sludge in your tank, I often put a hose on the far 
> end of my water system and run a couple tanks out into the slip to clean it 
> up.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>  
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 1:17 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm 
>> tomorrow, but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure 
>> limited version of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure 
>> limited version.  The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support said 
>> to do this:
>>  
>> The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is 
>> too clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in 
>> size; the pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as 
>> one piece and the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check 
>> valve will usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a triangle 
>> with suction cups in each corner on one side and the other side theirs a 
>> rubber diaphragm in the center; that are machine press in(Take a picture of 
>> the check valve “Both Sides”). Take the check valve and place it in a bucket 
>> of warm water wait a couple of minutes. While the check valve is soaking; 
>> take the head where the suction and the discharge hose hookup and rotate and 
>> look inside. You will see a circle in the center a 1/8” edge; take a wet 
>> towel and wipe off that edge (Front, Back and Top Edge). Take the Check 
>> Valve when it’s submerged pick it up and slush it back and forth in the 
>> bucket of water for a couple of minutes (While Submerged). This should clear 
>> all the particles. Place the check valve back into the Head of the pump and 
>> put it back together. 90% of the time your pump will be back to normal.
>>  
>> Seems excessive for a brand new pump but I guess I will have to try it.
>> Dave
>>  
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

It looks like the pump version was not the problem.  I will confirm tomorrow, 
but according to Defender, I did indeed purchase the pressure limited version 
of the pump.  I don’t think they even sell the non-pressure limited version.  
The response I got from Jabsco/Xylem customer support said to do this:

The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is too 
clean it. Take the six screws out they would are Long then Short in size; the 
pump will come part in two pieces the motor and lower housing as one piece and 
the pump head; once you spread the two pieces apart the check valve will 
usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a triangle with suction 
cups in each corner on one side and the other side theirs a rubber diaphragm in 
the center; that are machine press in(Take a picture of the check valve “Both 
Sides”). Take the check valve and place it in a bucket of warm water wait a 
couple of minutes. While the check valve is soaking; take the head where the 
suction and the discharge hose hookup and rotate and look inside. You will see 
a circle in the center a 1/8” edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge 
(Front, Back and Top Edge). Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up 
and slush it back and forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes 
(While Submerged). This should clear all the particles. Place the check valve 
back into the Head of the pump and put it back together. 90% of the time your 
pump will be back to normal.

Seems excessive for a brand new pump but I guess I will have to try it.
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I think that is exactly what happened to me.  I will confirm when I get to the 
boat on Wednesday.  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Sep 4, 2022, at 5:58 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Parmax1 is NOT pressure limited. 
> Parmax 1 Pressure Limited, is!
> 
> Nice labeling huh?
> I bought the wrong one too... 
> 
> Nate Flesness
> 
> On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 9:40 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I am back to working on the freshwater pump problem.  I replaced the old pump 
> (unknown age) with the same model Jabsco ParMax 1 that had failed and now it 
> is pressurizing the system, so the old pump was definitely the problem.  
> However, the new pump will not shut off, even if left for extended time.  I 
> can find no water or air leaks and the system stays pressurized enough to get 
> water from the sink days after running the pump, so it does not seem to have 
> a leak on the outlet side.  I am stumped as to why it will not shut off.  
> Suggestions?  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2022, at 3:17 PM, Chris Riedinger > <mailto:chris.riedin...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> The new shurflo is 4138-111-E65
>> 
>> It's 12v, 6.5a max and 3gpm. It's got 55psi auto shutoff 
>> 
>> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:41 AM Chris Riedinger > <mailto:chris.riedin...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> Was a jabsco, I replaced with sureflo. 
>> 
>> I can't find the model# on my log- I'll take a peek down there this morning 
>> . 
>> 
>> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:17 AM David Knecht > <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> I can hear and feel the pump running fine, so I don’t think it is a 
>> connection issue.  What pump did you replace yours with?  Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 8, 2022, at 10:35 PM, Chris Riedinger >> <mailto:chris.riedin...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Checking breakers or fuses
>>> 
>>> Any connections made - any corrosion in there? Are you getting 
>>> (batteryV+)12v or only 10.2 indicating a possible short
>>> 
>>> Our water pump, which I believe was the original, just died last year and I 
>>> swapped it out. I wish I had done that sooner, the new pump is both quieter 
>>> and uses less aH 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Swaloon 37/40+
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022, 7:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today 
>>> and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I 
>>> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that 
>>> controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the 
>>> manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the 
>>> manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so 
>>> nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not 
>>> feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps, 
>>> so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am 
>>> presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario 
>>> that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave
>>> 
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am back to working on the freshwater pump problem.  I replaced the old pump 
(unknown age) with the same model Jabsco ParMax 1 that had failed and now it is 
pressurizing the system, so the old pump was definitely the problem.  However, 
the new pump will not shut off, even if left for extended time.  I can find no 
water or air leaks and the system stays pressurized enough to get water from 
the sink days after running the pump, so it does not seem to have a leak on the 
outlet side.  I am stumped as to why it will not shut off.  Suggestions?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 9, 2022, at 3:17 PM, Chris Riedinger  wrote:
> 
> The new shurflo is 4138-111-E65
> 
> It's 12v, 6.5a max and 3gpm. It's got 55psi auto shutoff 
> 
> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:41 AM Chris Riedinger  <mailto:chris.riedin...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Was a jabsco, I replaced with sureflo. 
> 
> I can't find the model# on my log- I'll take a peek down there this morning . 
> 
> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022, 6:17 AM David Knecht  <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> I can hear and feel the pump running fine, so I don’t think it is a 
> connection issue.  What pump did you replace yours with?  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 8, 2022, at 10:35 PM, Chris Riedinger > <mailto:chris.riedin...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Checking breakers or fuses
>> 
>> Any connections made - any corrosion in there? Are you getting 
>> (batteryV+)12v or only 10.2 indicating a possible short
>> 
>> Our water pump, which I believe was the original, just died last year and I 
>> swapped it out. I wish I had done that sooner, the new pump is both quieter 
>> and uses less aH 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Swaloon 37/40+
>> 
>> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022, 7:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today 
>> and not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I 
>> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that 
>> controls tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the 
>> manifold and before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the 
>> manifold/filter to the pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so nothing 
>> appears blocked.  When I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not feel any 
>> suction on the opening.  I presume these are self-priming pumps, so I should 
>> have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years old, so I am presuming it is just 
>> dead, but wondering if there is any other scenario that might make it not 
>> work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I took the old one apart and have no idea how it works.  Certainly had no 
impeller so I am presuming diaphragm.  I have installed a newer model of the 
same Jabsco pump.  In their infinite wisdom, they changed the mounting bracket 
size slightly so only two of 4 holes lined up.  That is almost as annoying as 
Standard Horizon, who sets the standard for this by using a different and 
incompatible charging base with each model of VHF handheld radio.  Had to drill 
the other two which was remarkably awkward in the tight space.  Fortunately I 
have a very small portable drill which made it possible. When assembled, it 
definitely generated vacuum on the inlet unlike the other pump.  It seems to be 
generating water pressure now, but is not switching off when reaching cut off 
pressure.  I am guessing that there is an air leak in the inlet side as there 
is no water leaking anywhere I could find.  I did not have time to clean all 
the threaded PEX? fittings which were wrapped with teflon tape and looked 
pretty nasty.  I will take those apart and rewrap them and assemble and see if 
that fixes the problem when I get back to the job.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 12, 2022, at 3:02 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is it a diaphragm pump?  If so the diaphragm may be shot
> 
> On Wed, Aug 10, 2022 at 10:46 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Try taking it apart and cleaning the vanes. Sometimes they get crud in there.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today and 
> not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I 
> confirmed there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that controls 
> tank choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the manifold and 
> before the pump.  I removed the hose connecting the manifold/filter to the 
> pump and when I sucked on it, I got water, so nothing appears blocked.  When 
> I turned the pump on (Par-Max4), I could not feel any suction on the opening. 
>  I presume these are self-priming pumps, so I should have felt some pull.  
> The pump is 30 years old, so I am presuming it is just dead, but wondering if 
> there is any other scenario that might make it not work before I replace it.  
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Fresh water pump dead?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Folks- I found that my fresh water pump was running continuously today and 
not pressurizing the system and not cutting out when pressurized.  I confirmed 
there was water in the tanks and flow to the manifold that controls tank 
choice.  But there was no water in the filter after the manifold and before the 
pump.  I removed the hose connecting the manifold/filter to the pump and when I 
sucked on it, I got water, so nothing appears blocked.  When I turned the pump 
on (Par-Max4), I could not feel any suction on the opening.  I presume these 
are self-priming pumps, so I should have felt some pull.  The pump is 30 years 
old, so I am presuming it is just dead, but wondering if there is any other 
scenario that might make it not work before I replace it.  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am a big fan of rare earth magnets as well.  I use them to tack my flexible 
solar panel to the companionway slider.  I have one set for hatch open and one 
set for hatch closed glued to the plexiglass and the back of the panel.  Much 
nicer than velcro, although I have had some corrosion problems over time.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jul 27, 2022, at 9:43 AM, Novabraid via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My canvas maker has sewn sunbrella tabs with fuzzy Velcro underneath on the 
> bimini that run the length and width of the solar panel.  We were able to sew 
> lengths of the toothed Velcro directly to the perimeter of the panels.  The 
> tabs go over the outer edges of the panels, securing them in place on all 4 
> sides. As such, my panels can be easily removed when the bimini top needs to 
> be stowed away for weather events simply by peeling back the velcro.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 1983 Landfall 35
>  
>  
> From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2022 9:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Jeff Nelson mailto:jhnelso...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top
>  
> That doesn't affect your compass?
> 
> On 2022-07-27 09:32, Kevin Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>> I have 4 panels mounted on our bimini using rare-earth-magnet. Seen over 40 
>> knots without any issues. 
>> https://suntechsolar.ca/product/rare-earth-magnet-mounting-kit/ 
>> 
>>  
>> Kevin Wright
>> Landfall 43
>> Raven
>> Midland ON
>>>  
>>>  
>>> On Tue, Jul 26, 2022, 8:22 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List >> > wrote:
 Has anyone figured out how to mount a flexible solar panel on the bimini 
 top without the panel edges/corners chafing the sunbrella? 
  
 Wade
 Oh Boy, C 33 mk II
 Lake of the Woods
> 
> 
> -- 
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.

Stus-List Re: Engine tachometer

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil- I will check the connections and report back later in the week.  
Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Jul 26, 2022, at 9:25 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On small diesels the tach gets its information from the alternator, it uses 
> the frequency of the alternating current, proportional to the alternator's 
> RPM, before the current goes through the rectifiers to be converted to DC.  
> This could mean the electrical connection on the alternator for tach (usually 
> terminal marked "W") could be loose, or a bad connection between the 
> alternator and the tach.  If the speed showed slower it could mean the belt 
> is slipping but in your case it's showing higher, so more likely in the 
> connections or in the tach itself.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> On 7/26/2022 7:03 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> Yesterday, I was motoring and noticed that the engine tachometer was acting 
>> strangely.  It would read 4000 rpm for a while and then drop back to 2000 
>> rpm (roughly correct).  Then it would go up to 3000 rpm and hold there.  It 
>> kept bouncing around while the actual engine was steady, so it was just the 
>> tach.  I have no idea where the data comes from, what would cause this, and 
>> whether to worry about it.  The engine is a Universal M4-30.  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

Stus-List Engine tachometer

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Yesterday, I was motoring and noticed that the engine tachometer was acting 
strangely.  It would read 4000 rpm for a while and then drop back to 2000 rpm 
(roughly correct).  Then it would go up to 3000 rpm and hold there.  It kept 
bouncing around while the actual engine was steady, so it was just the tach.  I 
have no idea where the data comes from, what would cause this, and whether to 
worry about it.  The engine is a Universal M4-30.  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Does he have the asym hoisted and furled on the furler throughout the race and 
just unfurl it or hoist it furled at the mark?  I have wondered how much 
interference a furled A-sail would have on upwind performance.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jul 12, 2022, at 10:25 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I do want to whoop my main competitor!  Or at least compete with him.  He’s 
> the one who started an arms race in the fleet, by adding a bowsprit, asym, 
> and top-down furler two years ago.  That and a furling genoa is now the 
> minimum ante in the fleet.  At the windward mark he could furl his genoa and 
> unfurl his asym in 30 seconds, while it took me several minutes to set the 
> spin pole, hoist the symmetrical, hoist its dousing sock, and drop the genoa. 
>  There was no way I could compete.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor! 
>> 
>> I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie PA
>> 
>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
>> asymmetrical spinnaker.
>> 
>> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a 
>> new Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 
>> asymmetrical spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing the 
>> latter two birthday presents on Tuesday.
>> 
>> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind / 
>> downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s 
>> races.
>> 
>> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
>> additional tips you old salts might offer.
>> 
>> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
>> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line 
>> to run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit 
>> lengthwise.  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so 
>> I’ve repurposed a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware 
>> was sufficient for a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an 
>> asym tack line.  Am I wrong?
>> 
>> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for 
>> the symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I 
>> use snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>> 
>> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
>> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so 
>> the trimmer can see the whole sail.
>> 
>> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
>> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
>> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.
>> 
>> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
>> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
>> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
> 

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks for the thoughts.  Chris wins today’s prize.  We got it working again 
today.  It seemed to be the starter button.  When I shorted the contacts it 
worked and after cleaning those contacts, all seems to be well.  I am 
considering replacing that 20 year old switch along with the glow plug button 
and key switch on that panel.  Anything mechanical and exposed like that I 
presume to have a limited lifetime and those are 30 years old.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





> On Jul 7, 2022, at 9:27 AM, Chris Riedinger  wrote:
> 
> Sounds like the start button or perhaps neutral safety -did you jiggle the 
> shifter? 
> 
> 
> 
> The stop knob wouldn't prevent the motor from turning over, but good on you 
> for honesty 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:08 AM David Knecht via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.  
> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the 
> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.  Fortunately, 
> I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a problem.  I 
> will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem and wanted to 
> see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal experience.  
> 
> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two batteries 
> just to be sure and still nothing happens.
> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over. 
>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when 
> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the 
> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a real 
> PITA to get to.  
> 
> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing that 
> happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the genoa 
> sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I checked 
> and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn over even 
> if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not start.  
> 
> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean both 
> and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Engine not turning over

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.  
Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the race 
and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.  Fortunately, I was 
able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a problem.  I will be 
going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem and wanted to see if 
anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal experience.  

Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two batteries 
just to be sure and still nothing happens.
Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over. 
 I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when pressed 
and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the glow plug 
button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a real PITA to get 
to.  

Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing that 
happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the genoa sheet 
got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I checked and the 
cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn over even if it were 
pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not start.  

So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean both 
and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

My sailmaker installed a glue on gray laminate material UV leech protector on 
my two new roller furling laminate genoas (145 and 110) sails when they were 
made.  I don’t think it is stitched but will look tomorrow.   I am not sure 
what the material is, but could find out.  It last lasted for 4 years and shows 
no signs of detaching or degrading.  One small spot has needed repair due I 
think to shroud abrasion, and that was just done with sail repair tape.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 21, 2022, at 10:19 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
 Some calling around got it down to $900 or so. One shop had a recording 
 saying they already had too many jobs and would only take calls from 
 people with work already in their shop!
 $400 is $400 
  
> 
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Reefing lines

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig their 
reefing lines.  I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and reefing 
line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom.  When I want to reef, I have 
generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and around the boom and 
tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really difficult to pull the new 
clew down and back to flatten the sail in both directions.  It seems like it 
should work, but I am not sure if there is a better way.   How do others rig 
for reefing?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I used to use a bowline to tie the sheets and then switched to eye splices with 
the soft shackle, but the problem persists.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 16, 2022, at 2:13 PM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave:  Are you using an eye splice in the end of the sheet or are you using a 
> bowline know to make that loop?  I agree with Jeff, I’ve been making my own 
> soft shackles for over 5 years and  there has not been one snag on anything.
>  
> You mention “a problem over knots”  ?
>  
> Ron C.
>  
> From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2022 1:37 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman mailto:jlam...@outlook.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
>  
> Dave,
> I am curious how your soft shackle is installed and why that hasn't solved 
> your problem.  After attaching sheets with a soft shackle a couple years ago, 
> I have not had a single hangup.
> Jeff Laman
> 81C
> Harmony
> Ludington, MI
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2022 1:32 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
>  
> What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment 
> from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema soft shackle to 
> attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over 
> knots.  Thanks- Dave 
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The sheets have loops spliced into the ends and the soft shackle just goes 
through the two loops and attaches to itself.  I have no problem with my 100% 
genoa, but my 145 hangs up often.  Do you have protective tubes around your 
shrouds or bare rod?  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 16, 2022, at 1:36 PM, Jeffrey A. Laman  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> I am curious how your soft shackle is installed and why that hasn't solved 
> your problem.  After attaching sheets with a soft shackle a couple years ago, 
> I have not had a single hangup.
> Jeff Laman
> 81C
> Harmony
> Ludington, MI
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2022 1:32 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: Stus-List Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
>  
> What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment 
> from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema soft shackle to 
> attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over 
> knots.  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 

Stus-List Genoa sheets catch on shrouds

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment 
from catching on the shrouds during a tack?  I use a dyneema soft shackle to 
attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over knots.  
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

While on the topic of wiring alternators to batteries, Balmar has a “new” 
alternator protection module. Worth $70?  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 1, 2022, at 9:57 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> This is exactly why if I go lithium, the charging will work as follows:
> Alternator > Start Battery > DC-DC Charger > Lithium Battery.
> I also have the temp sensor on the alternator, which should help keep it from 
> being roasted. That still doesn’t help with the issue of the BMS opening.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, June 1, 2022 9:38 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>  
> Thank you for outing the hack, sometimes it is hard to know who to believe 
> when something (like this) is not your area of expertise.
> I just found this on my Balmar regulator instructions, which gives me pause . 
> ..
>  
> LFP LiFeP04 Recommendations
> Our LFP program is a generalized version of the recommendations provided by 
> the top LFP battery manufacturers. For best performance and compatibility, 
> please consult your battery manufacturer and use the regulator’s advanced 
> programming features to adjust the LFP program as needed. LFP batteries are 
> more sensitive to abuse than a traditional chemistry battery and can fail 
> catastrophically. It is HIGHLY recommended that the charging system as a 
> whole be installed or inspected by a qualified marine electrical installer 
> that has experience with Balmar charging system products and LFP batteries. 
> The LFP profile is intended to work with the battery manufacturer’s battery 
> management systems (BMS). The LFP profile IS NOT a replacement for a BMS.
>  
> FMany LiFePo4 batteries have a Battery Management System (BMS) that may 
> disconnect the battery from the alternator as a protective action or when 
> charging is complete. The regulator must be shut down before the battery is 
> disconnected .Running an alternator without a battery will damage the 
> alternator and may damage any attached system. This is doubly true if the 
> battery can be disconnected during high current charging, causing a load 
> dump. The load dump can easily cause a high voltage spike which will destroy 
> the alternator’s rectifier, at minimum. This is not a warrantable failure. To 
> reiterate: THE ALTERNATOR MUST BE SHUT DOWN BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY. 
> THE ONLY SAFE WAY TO SHUT DOWN THE ALTERNATOR IS TO TURN OFF THE REGULATOR. 
> The preferred method of turning off the regulator is disconnecting the 
> regulator’s ignition (brown) wire, but if used as an EMERGENCY ONLY shutdown, 
> disconnecting the regulator’s power input (red) wire in addition to the 
> ignition wire has a very low chance of damaging the regulator.
>  
> FLFP batteries will readily accept a damaging amount of current. Applying too 
> much charge current to a LFP battery will, at the very least, permanently 
> damage the battery’s capacity. It is CRITICAL to ensure that the alternator 
> is not capable of exceeding the maximum continuous charge current rating of 
> your battery (or batteries). As always, check with your battery manufacturer 
> for specifics. Your battery manufacturer may supply you with a “C-rate” for 
> charging and discharging. The maximum amount of charging current your battery 
> can safely handle is determined by multiplying the “C-Rate” by the capacity 
> of the bank. i.e. 4x 100Ah 12V batteries rated at 0.5C charge = 400 Ah * 0.5C 
> = 200amps MAX. If your alternator is capable of outputting more current, at 
> any time or condition, than the battery (or batteries) can handle, you may 
> use the Amp Manager feature on the MC-624 to lower the maximum field drive 
> output, and thereby lower the maximum alternator output current. See page 10 
> of your regulator manual for details and instructions. Be aware that it is 
> not an exact 1:1 correlation between field output and alternator output, so 
> start with more reduction (lower output) than you think you need and adjust 
> accordingly.
>  
> FIt is strongly recommended that an alternator temperature sensor (MC-TS-A) 
> be used when charging LFP batteries. Given the extremely high charge 
> acceptance rate of LFP batteries, the alternator will be driven to full 
> output for almost all of the charge cycle. This can cause overheating in 
> automotive style alternators resulting in a significantly shortened lifespan. 
> When equipped with the MC-TS-A temperature sensor, the MC-624 will help you 
> protect your investment by reducing the field voltage to your alternator by 
> 50% when over the “AL1” temperature threshold. If you cannot use an MC-TS-A 
> in your application, you should monitor the alternator’s temperature (measure 
> as close to the loop ends of the stator as possible) and discontinue charging 
> if the alternator temperature rises above the maximum 

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am actually leaning toward the VMAX group 31, which I can buy directly from 
the company.  They are made in the US and Vietnam, appear to have good and 
complete specifications (cycling, design etc.).  I can get the Group 31 with 
135Ah for $349 vs. the Lifeline Group 31 which is 105 Ah for $428 from 
Defender.  It would be great if someone with more expertise looks at their data 
and see if I am missing something.  Dave

https://www.vmaxtanks.com/XTR31-135-12Volts-135AH-Deep-Cycle-XTREME-AGM-Battery-_p_176.html

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=lifeline-agm-deep-cycle-marine-battery-(gpl-31t)=-1|328|2289954|2289956=152242

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On May 26, 2022, at 11:11 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I highly recommend Lifeline group 31
> 
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>  <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>  
> There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all 
> cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There is 
> no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What 
> matters *hugely* is the number of cycles that they can endure before being 
> trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say the 
> least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually considered 
> the best AGM maker.
> FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your local 
> battery shop and see what they charge. They are worse than Lifelines, but if 
> they crap out after a week at least you can return them to the store 
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:25 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Batteries again
>  
> I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need to 
> replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate start 
> and house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have large 
> power needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I have been 
> reading and researching this and I am unsure of what to purchase.  From what 
> I have read, AH is the important number to focus on.  Last time, I got 
> Lifeline AGM group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3 different group 27 
> batteries
> Powertech rated at 92AH  which cost about $330
> Lifeline  rated at 100AH for 432
> Northstar   rated at 92AH for 457
>   
> From Amazon, I can get a VMAX group 27 with 100AH for $289 or a Universal 
> with 110 AH for $239.  Is there any reason to be concerned about less known 
> (to me) brands from Amazon or does it make sense to just focus on the 
> numbers?  Thanks- Dave  
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

The battery you indicated appears not to be an AGM.  Flooded batteries in 
general are much cheaper than the AGM.  My battery compartment is not easily 
accessible, so having to maintain the water level in the battery,  worries 
about operating it while healed plus the potential danger of spills makes me 
much happier to spend the extra $$$ for AGM batteries.  One less thing to worry 
about.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 30, 2022, at 11:57 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have used Dyno batteries without issue.  They cost less than 1/2.  Am I 
> missing something?
> 
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/dyno-battery-heavy-duty-m30-marine-batteries/m30hh
>  
> <https://www.fisheriessupply.com/dyno-battery-heavy-duty-m30-marine-batteries/m30hh>
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
>> On May 30, 2022, at 9:30 AM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I highly recommend Lifeline group 31
>> 
>> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
>> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
>> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> > <mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>>  
>> There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all 
>> cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There 
>> is no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What 
>> matters *hugely* is the number of cycles that they can endure before being 
>> trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say the 
>> least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually considered 
>> the best AGM maker.
>> FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your local 
>> battery shop and see what they charge. They are worse than Lifelines, but if 
>> they crap out after a week at least you can return them to the store 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: David Knecht via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
>> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:25 AM
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list > <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
>> Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Batteries again
>>  
>> I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need to 
>> replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate start 
>> and house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have large 
>> power needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I have been 
>> reading and researching this and I am unsure of what to purchase.  From what 
>> I have read, AH is the important number to focus on.  Last time, I got 
>> Lifeline AGM group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3 different group 27 
>> batteries
>> Powertech rated at 92AH  which cost about $330
>> Lifeline  rated at 100AH for 432
>> Northstar   rated at 92AH for 457
>>   
>> From Amazon, I can get a VMAX group 27 with 100AH for $289 or a Universal 
>> with 110 AH for $239.  Is there any reason to be concerned about less known 
>> (to me) brands from Amazon or does it make sense to just focus on the 
>> numbers?  Thanks- Dave  
>>  
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 

Stus-List Batteries again

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need to 
replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate start and 
house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have large power 
needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I have been reading 
and researching this and I am unsure of what to purchase.  From what I have 
read, AH is the important number to focus on.  Last time, I got Lifeline AGM 
group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3 different group 27 batteries
Powertech rated at 92AH  which cost about $330
Lifeline  rated at 100AH for 432
Northstar   rated at 92AH for 457
  
From Amazon, I can get a VMAX group 27 with 100AH for $289 or a Universal with 
110 AH for $239.  Is there any reason to be concerned about less known (to me) 
brands from Amazon or does it make sense to just focus on the numbers?  Thanks- 
Dave  

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

At the suggestion of someone on this list, I replaced all my lights with LED’s 
from Marinebeam (https://store.marinebeam.com).  I thought they were well 
constructed and would last longer then the Perko's that had failed.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 6, 2022, at 9:53 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This one: 
> https://www.perko.com/catalog/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/1154/horizontal_mount_side_light/
>  
> 
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On Fri, 6 May 2022 at 00:03, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Randy,
> 
> I’m pretty sure those are made by Perko. Still in business. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   |Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On May 5, 2022, at 10:53 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know where to source the dome-style running lights for an older 
> C, with the green red or white plastic insert?
> 
> Here’s a photo of what I’m looking for: 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xe1lV7JICWSDbu8LOfELaCvJkaZ6TM9C/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Batteries and chargers

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I used a battery check device the other day and found that my batteries were 
below 50% of their rated power, so I think it is time to replace them (9 
years).  What I have are 2 (house and start) Deep Cycle Power Tech Group 24 
AGM.  I went back and read Maine Sailor’s excellent article on batteries 
(https://marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/ 
) and found one aspect 
confusing.  He advocates strongly for using 2 golf cart 6V batteries wired in 
series: ("In virtually the same foot print as two Group 24 12V light cycle 
batteries, only slightly taller, two 6V batteries wired in series for 12V will 
yield approximately 850 lab cycles vs. 350. “).  But he seems to discount that 
you need two 6V batteries to replace a group 24 12V battery.  A Group 24 is 
10.7 x 6.8 x 8.6 and a GC2 is 10.3 x 7 x 11.  So if you put two GC2 batteries 
in, it will take up nearly twice the space.  I did a rough measure of my 
battery compartment, and I don’t think two GC2 batteries will fit. Am I missing 
something?  He is usually so accurate about advice so I was surprised.
 
Also,  I have the engine alternator and a 50W solar panel that trickle charges 
the batteries during the week through a dual controller.  One battery company I 
talked to said that going to a larger battery (group 27) would be a problem 
with a small solar panel due to the low charging amps with the solar panel.  I 
don’t understand now that I have thought about it.  The panel  says it can 
output 18 volts, which is much higher than the battery voltage. So I can see 
that it would take longer to charge the larger battery, but wouldn’t it 
eventually charge the batteries given the many hours of charging?  Am I missing 
something?  The battery rep said that the long charging at low amps would 
damage the battery because it would cause the temperature to be raised.  I can 
find nothing on the internet that supports that idea.  Everything I read agrees 
with me that it will be slow, but will work with a small panel.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: Vacuum Gauge replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks for the head’s up about the AOS sensor.  I am seriously considering 
adding it.  Do you know what you need to connect it to a Seatalk-ng network?  
On the subject of Racor filter units- is there any logic to straight vs. 90° 
barb fittings for hose connections to the Racor?  It doesn’t come with any 
fittings and Defender is out of the straight ones.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 1, 2022, at 9:53 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> Occasionally Fuel Filter gauges come up in our discussion – and running a 
>> tube back to the cockpit to monitor.
>>  
>> Just saw this post pop up on a Panbo post I was on, about a pretty cool 
>> electronic sensor to pipe this info into your NMEA trunk and view on your 
>> MFD. Pretty cool for the nerd in us. $190 bucks, but certainly would keep 
>> you more aware of an engine shutdown.
>>  
>> Go to Racorstore dot com, and search for   AOS NMEA 2000 Vacuum Sensor
>>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA

Stus-List Burnished bottom paint

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have been considering what kind of bottom paint to use in the future and it 
seems that most racers have a very hard/smooth/burnished bottom on their boats. 
 So, I was wondering if there is data to support that this is important.  One 
reason for asking is that in addition to being a sailor, I am also a cyclist.  
A few years ago, the hypothesis that was accepted by all cyclists, including 
pro teams, was that thin, high pressure tires were the fastest.   Then someone 
actually did the experimental science, and found that wider, lower pressure 
tires were actually as fast or faster.  Counterintuitive, but data trumps 
intuition, and that is why we should test obvious and intuitive assumptions.  
So my question is, has anyone seen actual experimental data on comparing 
different smoothnesses and type of bottom paint vs. boat speed under controlled 
conditions?   Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sacrificial anodes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Same bottom paint (Vivid) through all the relevant years.  Dave


> On Nov 19, 2021, at 6:05 PM, Donald Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Did you change the bottom paint ?
> Many years ago I had the eating the anodes problem and what I determined was 
> the bottom paint was conductive and was setting up hull surface loops thru 
> the paint.  Further I found that all my bronze overboards had connecting 
> ground wire even though the piping was all plastic/pvc.  I removed all the 
> overboard ground wires and changed to Int'l CSC bottom paint.  I now use a 
> single new doughnut shaft anode every year and it is approx 30-40% sacrificed 
> at the end of the sailing season.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> 
> 
> On 11/19/2021 5:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> Some may remember a Stump the Chumps post I made back in 2015.  At that 
>> time, I had pulled the boat for the season and found that two of my three 
>> anodes were gone, and the third barely present, which was something that had 
>> never happened before.  They were previously in such good shape that I had 
>> to decide whether to reuse them the next season or not.  We decided that Joe 
>> deserved a prize for suggesting the idea that stray current in a marina I 
>> stayed at for several days had eaten the anodes.  I am afraid I am going to 
>> have to recall the bottle of Rum that I never gave Joe.  
>> 
>> That year seemed an anomaly and every year since then, the anodes have been 
>> in pretty good shape at the end of the season so I presumed Joe was right 
>> and the problem was gone.  Aries was hauled yesterday, so I went down to 
>> winterize and cover today.  To my surprise, the situation was much like 
>> 2015: the prop anode was completely gone and one of the two shaft anodes was 
>> gone.  The other was nearly completely consumed with just a bit of metal 
>> hanging on.  What eliminates the stray current hypothesis is that I never 
>> plugged into shore power at any time this season.  I don’t really understand 
>> stray currents, but I thought that if you don’t plug into shore power, you 
>> are not going to have this problem.  Is that correct and if so, any new 
>> hypotheses?   Nothing electrical on the boat has changed over the last 3 
>> years, so it is not some new wiring that I have done.   Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125



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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sacrificial anodes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Dave- You may be on to something:
You may experience a kind of revolution in your psyche, a growth in awareness 
that puts you in a position in which you know you must change your life in some 
fundamental way. This could be associated with an experience that is 
transforming in some way, either difficult or enlightening or both.

I just became a grandfather and recently decide to retire.  Who knew astrology 
could be so accurate.  Unfortunately, I don’t think this helps to resolve my 
anode issue.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 19, 2021, at 5:25 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might need to change the name.
> 
> http://astrologyclub.org/aries-phase-seven-year-cycle/ 
> <http://astrologyclub.org/aries-phase-seven-year-cycle/>
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 at 17:12, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Some may remember a Stump the Chumps post I made back in 2015.  At that time, 
> I had pulled the boat for the season and found that two of my three anodes 
> were gone, and the third barely present, which was something that had never 
> happened before.  They were previously in such good shape that I had to 
> decide whether to reuse them the next season or not.  We decided that Joe 
> deserved a prize for suggesting the idea that stray current in a marina I 
> stayed at for several days had eaten the anodes.  I am afraid I am going to 
> have to recall the bottle of Rum that I never gave Joe.  
> 
> That year seemed an anomaly and every year since then, the anodes have been 
> in pretty good shape at the end of the season so I presumed Joe was right and 
> the problem was gone.  Aries was hauled yesterday, so I went down to 
> winterize and cover today.  To my surprise, the situation was much like 2015: 
> the prop anode was completely gone and one of the two shaft anodes was gone.  
> The other was nearly completely consumed with just a bit of metal hanging on. 
>  What eliminates the stray current hypothesis is that I never plugged into 
> shore power at any time this season.  I don’t really understand stray 
> currents, but I thought that if you don’t plug into shore power, you are not 
> going to have this problem.  Is that correct and if so, any new hypotheses?   
> Nothing electrical on the boat has changed over the last 3 years, so it is 
> not some new wiring that I have done.   Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Sacrificial anodes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Some may remember a Stump the Chumps post I made back in 2015.  At that time, I 
had pulled the boat for the season and found that two of my three anodes were 
gone, and the third barely present, which was something that had never happened 
before.  They were previously in such good shape that I had to decide whether 
to reuse them the next season or not.  We decided that Joe deserved a prize for 
suggesting the idea that stray current in a marina I stayed at for several days 
had eaten the anodes.  I am afraid I am going to have to recall the bottle of 
Rum that I never gave Joe.  

That year seemed an anomaly and every year since then, the anodes have been in 
pretty good shape at the end of the season so I presumed Joe was right and the 
problem was gone.  Aries was hauled yesterday, so I went down to winterize and 
cover today.  To my surprise, the situation was much like 2015: the prop anode 
was completely gone and one of the two shaft anodes was gone.  The other was 
nearly completely consumed with just a bit of metal hanging on.  What 
eliminates the stray current hypothesis is that I never plugged into shore 
power at any time this season.  I don’t really understand stray currents, but I 
thought that if you don’t plug into shore power, you are not going to have this 
problem.  Is that correct and if so, any new hypotheses?   Nothing electrical 
on the boat has changed over the last 3 years, so it is not some new wiring 
that I have done.   Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I don’t think I have described my system before, but perhaps it is relevant 
here.  I rarely race in spinnaker class, so use my whisker pole (Forespar 
aluminum adjustable) 90% of the time off the wind.  I have a track on the front 
of the mast designed for the spinnaker pole and a hoop that the whisker pole 
attaches to.  I leave the whisker pole attached to the loop all the time 
(except when spinnaker racing), sitting vertically attached to and in front of 
the mast.   When I want to deploy the pole, I raise the track car with the 
endless adjusting line, move the pole end out of the mast base and lay it 
forward on the deck.  Then I attach the forward end to the jib sheet, extend 
the pole and trim the genoa sheet.  Very quick and easy and I never have to 
worry about dropping the pole or needing a place to store it.  Sometimes I 
attach the topping lift, often not, depending on the wind strength and 
direction.  When done, I detach the genoa, bring the pole back to minimum 
length, raise the track so the pole is vertical, position the other end in the 
mast base well and drop the track so the pole end nestles into the mast base.  
It has never come out on its own. I find that having the pole always in place 
on the mast and only having to attach one end works very well for me.  Dave
   
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Main halyard shackle

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

My boat came with a main halyard shackle of a type I have never seen anywhere 
else.  It has a pivoting arm that swings up after inserting through the 
headboard and secured with a threaded pin.  It has worked fine for years and 
easy to remove and attach, which I do routinely when done sailing for the day.  
Recently, I twice found it nearly completely unscrewed after a day of rough 
weather sailing, and that is concerning.  I don’t want to lose the halyard up 
the mast.  I am considering replacing it this winter with a standard snap 
shackle of the sort used on my genoa halyard.  I looked at a rigging company 
web site and they used snap shackles for genoa halyards and pin shackles for 
main halyards.  The logic of that escapes me.   On my boat, I take down the 
roller furling genoa only a few times a season while the main halyard is 
detached every time I go sailing.  I have no idea what the forces are on the 
main halyard but I would not think much greater than the genoa.  Any words of 
wisdom, or reason not to use a snap shackle for the main?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Ken- Sounds interesting.  How did you prepare the prop and shaft for 
painting?  Do you strip and repaint every year or just add a new coat?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 31, 2021, at 10:27 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> RUST-OLEUM makes a GALVANIZING COMPOUND SPRAY which is a 93% pure zinc 
> coating. I can get it at the local hardware store.  We've used it the last 
> couple of seasons. The boat comes out with the zinc paint still on the prop, 
> and no growth whatsoever.  Only about 45 hours on the engine this season 
> though.
> 
> "Instantly galvanize metal surfaces to protect them from corrosion with 
> Rust-Oleum® Professional Galvanizing Compound Spray. This 93% pure zinc 
> coating applies a galvanized film with cathodic protection, which resists 
> rusts, scratches and chips."
> 
> https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/professional/galvanizing-compound-spray/
>  
> 
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, 26 Oct 2021 at 10:09, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Petit sells one.  Probably more expensive but effective too.
> 
> On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 8:59 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Thanks. Is that the one that works. I had a ton of little white barnacle on 
> my prop and prop shat at haul out. I don’t think the prop would have driven 
> the boat. I had to get a tow to the marina for hail out because of another 
> reason ( did not get my wet exhaust fixed in time) so I don’t know for sure 
> if I could got there with auxiliary power. I am anxious to try zinc paint 
> next season
> 
> On Tue, Oct 26, 2021 at 7:10 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Krylon makes a zinc galvanizing paint that you can find on most hardware 
> store spray paint shelves.
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill 
> 
> Newport, RI 
> 
>  
> USA  
> 
>02840 
> 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2021, at 06:06, dwight veinot via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> 
> 
>> Where do you get “zinc paint”?
>> 
>> On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and shaft. 
>> I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop and 
>> shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m sold. 
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
>> Vancouver BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>>> Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint on 
>>> stainless and bronze running gear;
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)
>>> 
>>> Legacy III
>>> 
>>> 1982 C 34
>>> 
>>> Noank, CT
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> ] 
>>> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
>>> To: Stus-List
>>> Cc: Neil Andersen
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I use Petit prop paint with good results 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> 
>>> 1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire
>>> 
>>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>> 
>>> From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List >> >
>>> Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
>>> To: Stus-List
>>> Cc: Dean McNeill
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC, as 
>>> that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I bought it. A good 
>>> friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good results.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and it 
>>> has worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax NS 
>>> and it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season… a 
>>> little green scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked 
>>> with barnacles and growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where 
>>> it was applied!
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) with 
>>> bottom paint?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Dean
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 

Stus-List Re: Zinc Paint

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have tried them all and been unimpressed with the results on my Maxprop.  I 
tried the Pettit Zinc barrier coat spray many years ago and did not find it 
very effective.  Tried lanolin and the same.  Tried bottom paint with primer 
and it did not adhere.  Did Propspeed one year and it was good, but only lasted 
one year.  PITA to redo every year.  Same with Propglide.  Worked pretty well 
but had to redo it every year.  This year, I put Pettit’s new Running Gear 
Guardian on two blades of my prop and Velux Plus on the other.  I was 
especially careful last winter as I had the prop at home and it had been 
refurbished by PYI so no grease and it was very clean to begin with and I was 
able to further clean it really well with recommended solvents.  Pettit’s 
product was very easy to apply and looked good.  So I had high hopes.   I had 
to do a short haul a couple of weeks after launch and both had fallen off the 
prop in large chunks. I will see end of season results when I haul next week.  
My conclusion: there is no great solution except underwater cleaning.  Dave
  
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 26, 2021, at 10:17 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Dwight,
> Petit's Barnacle Barrier paint for prop and shaft.  I use it, but still got 
> barnacles in the salt water of New Jersey.  I get less barnacles in 
> Chesapeake Bay, but it's not perfect.  It's standard procedure at my boatyard 
> to spray props and shafts with this material.
>  
> https://ww2.iboats.com/Zinc-Prop-Coat-Barnacle-Barrier-1792-16-oz-Pettit-Paint/dm/view_id.83534?cm_mmc=Google_Main-_-Shopping+-+Engine+Parts+-+Low+Bids-_-brand+-+pettit+paint-_-PLAs=CjwKCAjwzt6LBhBeEiwAbPGOgbLg5FzxPfl7NJCt7bTVjNqS8lnKQzlGXK1AHX4DEqHmvIxSR8aeFxoCMS0QAvD_BwE
>  
> 
>  
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis, Md
>> On 10/26/2021 6:06 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>>  
>>  
>> Where do you get “zinc paint”?
>> 
>> On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>> Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and shaft. 
>> I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop and 
>> shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m sold.  
>> 
>> Al Liles
>> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
>> Vancouver BC 
>>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Bill- Can you clarify what you used?  I looked at the Pettit site and there 
was nothing called Odyssey Trinidad.  There was an Odyssey Triton?   Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 23, 2021, at 2:16 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know this subject is as old as boats, but I think I commented in the spring 
> that I was trying a brand new paint and would report in the fall, so here it 
> is.  It is raining and chilly and not much else going on in the NE, so . ..
>  
> The paint is Pettit Odyssey Trinidad, and when I hauled a week ago the 
> results were nothing less than amazing. All of the clubs haul out guys (and 
> girl) were in awe, and said it was the cleanest boat the have hauled this 
> year.
>  
> There was some scum from the bow back amidships and going down a few inches, 
> mostly on the north side, oddly enough.  But the rest was amazingly clean. Of 
> note, here in the Great Lakes over the last 10 years or so there has been 
> some new growth that no one seems to know anything about, looks like a spider 
> web growing all over the bottom, and there was NONE of that. No Zebra 
> Mussels, nothing.
> It is called ablative, but it is nowhere near as ablative as the previous 
> year’s paint, very little came off with the pressure washer. Also, it called 
> for two initial coats, I only used one. It goes on nice, and what I liked is 
> that there is no heavy copper falling out, you don’t seem to need to keep 
> stirring it as you go. In fact, I don’t think it has copper as we know it, 
> Three Ingredients, Copper Thiocyanate, Econea, and Zinc Pyrithione.   I 
> wouldn’t consider it a racing paint, but after a month, I might. One of the 
> guys hauled his First 40 out and cleaned it (VC17) for the last race two 
> weeks before his final haulout, and his bottom was a mess, complete with 
> ‘spiderwebs’ and Zebra Mussels. He was amazed to see how much scum was back 
> on 2 weeks later.
>  
> I think it’s the Zinc . .  . .Also, a $30 rebate going on.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racor diesel filter assemblies

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

It sounds like the 500 is the way to go.  I agree on not having the fire 
shield.  You can actually buy the 500 with no shield and a 30 µm filter 
installed (500FG30) and that was my target.  Defender doesn’t sell it, but 
other vendors do.  
https://www.racorstore.com/racor-500fg30-fg-fuel-filter-water-separator.html 
<https://www.racorstore.com/racor-500fg30-fg-fuel-filter-water-separator.html>

Follow up question: I would like to install a remote vacuum gauge in the 
cockpit near the engine control panel.  It is unclear to me how to plumb that 
into the 500.  The T handle with integral gauge would be simple, but it is a 
PITA to get to a place to see the gauge, so having it in the cockpit would be 
better.  But I don’t understand how to attach the line for the remote gauge to 
the 500.  Some of these units have a second port you could use, but the 500 
does not seems to have only one.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Oct 16, 2021, at 5:02 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I hate the spin on type as you can’t change the filter easily or without 
> making a mess. And it’s harder to inspect the bowl and the element. On the 
> 500–which I installed on Masquerade—you just take the top off, pull out the 
> element, replace it, and then top off the fuel in the filter with fresh fuel 
> ( I keep a gallon handy for this). 
> Bottom line: I would go with the 500. ( And get rid of the metal fire shield, 
> which only gets in the way of taking a good look at the bowl. If that shield 
> is necessary to prevent a fire melting the bowl , then the fire is too far 
> gone anyway. Just another stupid rule.)
> 
> Andy
> Masquerade 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA 02840
> 
> +401 965 5260
> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> <https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/>
> 
> 
> 
>> On Oct 16, 2021, at 16:44, David Knecht via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am considering replacing my old Racor primary filter assembly (currently 
>> 30 µm filter) with one of the newer ones, but I am unsure what the 
>> difference is between them and hoping someone can clarify differences I 
>> might not recognize.  I was initially looking at the 500 series turbine 
>> units which start around $200.  But there are also 120 series spin on units 
>> that are less than $100 and seem like they should work:
>> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2837510=133972# 
>> <https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C311%7C2349059%7C2837510=133972#>
>> 
>> Does anyone know if there is a reason not to use the less expensive models?  
>> I plan to also add a remote vacuum gauge at the helm station if that 
>> matters.  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Racer diesel filter assemblies

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am considering replacing my old Racor primary filter assembly (currently 30 
µm filter) with one of the newer ones, but I am unsure what the difference is 
between them and hoping someone can clarify differences I might not recognize.  
I was initially looking at the 500 series turbine units which start around 
$200.  But there are also 120 series spin on units that are less than $100 and 
seem like they should work:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|2349059|2837510=133972# 


Does anyone know if there is a reason not to use the less expensive models?  I 
plan to also add a remote vacuum gauge at the helm station if that matters.  
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Diesel smell in clothes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

All that work on the fuel system left me with some clothes that smell of 
diesel. They got washed normally and now all the cotton clothes from that load 
smell like diesel.  Anyone have any DIY tricks for getting diesel smell out in 
the laundry?  I saw vinegar and baking soda in a Google search, but it did not 
sound particularly effective.  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

 I had this happen on my previous boat with a Yanmar and I suspect I know why.  
I think the problem was getting air in the fuel lines as the pickup was 
sometimes not in the diesel as the boat bounced around when the tank is not 
full.  There was no electric fuel pump so you had to manually bleed the system 
to get the air out.  One thing I really like about the Universal with the 
electric fuel pump in my current boat is those air bubbles will be purged by 
the system if the fuel pump is left on with the engine not running.   Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 28, 2021, at 8:47 AM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Is your friend certain of the cause?  My Westerbeke also does not like to 
> start after bouncing around in the big waves (especially following a 
> knock-down).  My diesel mechanic (Andy H) has been thinking about the cause 
> for years.  It is not a clogged filter problem in our case.  Fortunately, I 
> have always been able to get it started, but it takes a lot of turning over.  
> Good thing I have sufficient battery reserve.
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 5:44 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> This is the second boat I have sprung for that double Racor.
> A friend of mine finished up a race in Buffalo  with a 30Kt West wind and his 
> engine wouldn’t start.  He had a hell of a time getting in  out of the waves 
> without something bad happening. After hearing his story,  (Clogged filter, 
> of course)  I thought, I don’t want that to happen to me – and I replaced 
> mine. Engine starts to stutter, check the gauge, and flip the handle to the 
> clean filter and keep on going.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

That makes sense.  I thought it was two filters in series.  I did not realize 
it was switchable.  Makes sense but 4x the price (Defender $200 vs. 900)?  
Seems excessive.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 27, 2021, at 5:43 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is the second boat I have sprung for that double Racor.
> A friend of mine finished up a race in Buffalo  with a 30Kt West wind and his 
> engine wouldn’t start.  He had a hell of a time getting in  out of the waves 
> without something bad happening. After hearing his story,  (Clogged filter, 
> of course)  I thought, I don’t want that to happen to me – and I replaced 
> mine. Engine starts to stutter, check the gauge, and flip the handle to the 
> clean filter and keep on going.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>] 
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 5:17 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> Curious why you went with the double 500 rather than the single?  I was not 
> sure what you gain with that.  Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 27, 2021, at 4:15 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> I was thinking the same thing when this first came up, but then I found a 
> Racor diagram and it showed the pump before the filter,
> Now, I just did the same search, and found this,
> https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf
>  
> <https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf>
>  
> where it shows both, only with the caveat that the pump will emulsify the 
> water into the fuel, and won’t spin out in the turbine – so they recommend it 
> be on the suction side.
> I have the double 500, and it is on the suction side.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>] 
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 3:19 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> Hi Josh- I was looking at new Racor filter units and this was the information 
> Defender provides.  That sounds like the reverse of your recommendation?
> 
> 
> 
> Turbine Series filter assemblies are designed to be installed on the vacuum 
> side of the fuel transfer pump for best efficiency and protect precision 
> engine components from dirt, rust, algae, asphaltines, varnishes, and 
> especially water, which is prevalent in engine fuels.
> 
> 
> 
> Racor’s system diagram is the same: fuel tank, Racor, Lift pump, secondary 
> filter, engine
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> I'm late to this discussion, sorry.  If you have an electric fuel pump it 
> should be connected before the racor.  Suck directly from the tank and as 
> close to the tank as possible, discharge into the racor.  This eliminates the 
> chance of a vacuum leak in the racor or anywhere else downstream of the pump 
> since down stream is pressurized.
>  
> Our era of boats were typically equipped with 200FG model racors.  
> Glass/plastic or metal bowl for diesel.  Metal bowl only for gasoline.  I 
> found venting to be a PIA.  I've shared this before but here is a video that 
> includes a mod for easier venting.  This mod requires drilling and tapping 
> the racor head.
>  
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ <https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ>
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Anyone tried one of these Chinese knockoffs?

https://www.amazon.com/500FG-Diesel-Marine-Filter-Separator/dp/B075FLD5RB/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B075FLD5RB=1#customerReviews
 
<https://www.amazon.com/500FG-Diesel-Marine-Filter-Separator/dp/B075FLD5RB/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B075FLD5RB=1#customerReviews>

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 27, 2021, at 4:15 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was thinking the same thing when this first came up, but then I found a 
> Racor diagram and it showed the pump before the filter,
> Now, I just did the same search, and found this,
> https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf
>  
> <https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf>
>  
> where it shows both, only with the caveat that the pump will emulsify the 
> water into the fuel, and won’t spin out in the turbine – so they recommend it 
> be on the suction side.
> I have the double 500, and it is on the suction side.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>] 
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 3:19 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> Hi Josh- I was looking at new Racor filter units and this was the information 
> Defender provides.  That sounds like the reverse of your recommendation?
> 
> 
> Turbine Series filter assemblies are designed to be installed on the vacuum 
> side of the fuel transfer pump for best efficiency and protect precision 
> engine components from dirt, rust, algae, asphaltines, varnishes, and 
> especially water, which is prevalent in engine fuels.
> 
> 
> Racor’s system diagram is the same: fuel tank, Racor, Lift pump, secondary 
> filter, engine
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> I'm late to this discussion, sorry.  If you have an electric fuel pump it 
> should be connected before the racor.  Suck directly from the tank and as 
> close to the tank as possible, discharge into the racor.  This eliminates the 
> chance of a vacuum leak in the racor or anywhere else downstream of the pump 
> since down stream is pressurized.
>  
> Our era of boats were typically equipped with 200FG model racors.  
> Glass/plastic or metal bowl for diesel.  Metal bowl only for gasoline.  I 
> found venting to be a PIA.  I've shared this before but here is a video that 
> includes a mod for easier venting.  This mod requires drilling and tapping 
> the racor head.
>  
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ <https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ>
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

On page 27 of this link:
https://www.racorstore.com/PDF/7529FuelFiltrationSystems.pdf

They only show one configuration for systems like ours with a primary and 
secondary and that is the lift pump after the primary:
Primary (Pre-) Fuel/Water Separator For Vacuum Applications And Final Fuel For 
Pressure Applications
Fuel is drawn out of the fuel reservoir by the lift pump into and
out of the pre-fuel filter/water separator. The fuel is pre-filtered through a 
10 to 30 micron rated filter which also removes harmful water, thereby 
protecting the lift pump and injection system. The lift pump pressurizes the 
pre-filtered fuel into the final filter. Fuel is
then filtered by a 1 to 7 micron rated filter, ensuring purified fuel is 
delivered. The combination filtration system design provides superior 
protection for heavy-duty applications where high levels of contamination and 
high volumes of fuel require a high filter capacity. 

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 27, 2021, at 4:15 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was thinking the same thing when this first came up, but then I found a 
> Racor diagram and it showed the pump before the filter,
> Now, I just did the same search, and found this,
> https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf
>  
> <https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf>
>  
> where it shows both, only with the caveat that the pump will emulsify the 
> water into the fuel, and won’t spin out in the turbine – so they recommend it 
> be on the suction side.
> I have the double 500, and it is on the suction side.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>] 
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 3:19 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> Hi Josh- I was looking at new Racor filter units and this was the information 
> Defender provides.  That sounds like the reverse of your recommendation?
> 
> 
> Turbine Series filter assemblies are designed to be installed on the vacuum 
> side of the fuel transfer pump for best efficiency and protect precision 
> engine components from dirt, rust, algae, asphaltines, varnishes, and 
> especially water, which is prevalent in engine fuels.
> 
> 
> Racor’s system diagram is the same: fuel tank, Racor, Lift pump, secondary 
> filter, engine
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> I'm late to this discussion, sorry.  If you have an electric fuel pump it 
> should be connected before the racor.  Suck directly from the tank and as 
> close to the tank as possible, discharge into the racor.  This eliminates the 
> chance of a vacuum leak in the racor or anywhere else downstream of the pump 
> since down stream is pressurized.
>  
> Our era of boats were typically equipped with 200FG model racors.  
> Glass/plastic or metal bowl for diesel.  Metal bowl only for gasoline.  I 
> found venting to be a PIA.  I've shared this before but here is a video that 
> includes a mod for easier venting.  This mod requires drilling and tapping 
> the racor head.
>  
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ <https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ>
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Curious why you went with the double 500 rather than the single?  I was not 
sure what you gain with that.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 27, 2021, at 4:15 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I was thinking the same thing when this first came up, but then I found a 
> Racor diagram and it showed the pump before the filter,
> Now, I just did the same search, and found this,
> https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf
>  
> <https://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Tech_Install/15335_500MA_Marine_Turbines.pdf>
>  
> where it shows both, only with the caveat that the pump will emulsify the 
> water into the fuel, and won’t spin out in the turbine – so they recommend it 
> be on the suction side.
> I have the double 500, and it is on the suction side.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>] 
> Sent: Monday, September 27, 2021 3:19 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> Hi Josh- I was looking at new Racor filter units and this was the information 
> Defender provides.  That sounds like the reverse of your recommendation?
> 
> 
> Turbine Series filter assemblies are designed to be installed on the vacuum 
> side of the fuel transfer pump for best efficiency and protect precision 
> engine components from dirt, rust, algae, asphaltines, varnishes, and 
> especially water, which is prevalent in engine fuels.
> 
> 
> Racor’s system diagram is the same: fuel tank, Racor, Lift pump, secondary 
> filter, engine
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> I'm late to this discussion, sorry.  If you have an electric fuel pump it 
> should be connected before the racor.  Suck directly from the tank and as 
> close to the tank as possible, discharge into the racor.  This eliminates the 
> chance of a vacuum leak in the racor or anywhere else downstream of the pump 
> since down stream is pressurized.
>  
> Our era of boats were typically equipped with 200FG model racors.  
> Glass/plastic or metal bowl for diesel.  Metal bowl only for gasoline.  I 
> found venting to be a PIA.  I've shared this before but here is a video that 
> includes a mod for easier venting.  This mod requires drilling and tapping 
> the racor head.
>  
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ <https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ>
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- I was looking at new Racor filter units and this was the information 
Defender provides.  That sounds like the reverse of your recommendation?

Turbine Series filter assemblies are designed to be installed on the vacuum 
side of the fuel transfer pump for best efficiency and protect precision engine 
components from dirt, rust, algae, asphaltines, varnishes, and especially 
water, which is prevalent in engine fuels.

Racor’s system diagram is the same: fuel tank, Racor, Lift pump, secondary 
filter, engine

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:37 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm late to this discussion, sorry.  If you have an electric fuel pump it 
> should be connected before the racor.  Suck directly from the tank and as 
> close to the tank as possible, discharge into the racor.  This eliminates the 
> chance of a vacuum leak in the racor or anywhere else downstream of the pump 
> since down stream is pressurized.
> 
> Our era of boats were typically equipped with 200FG model racors.  
> Glass/plastic or metal bowl for diesel.  Metal bowl only for gasoline.  I 
> found venting to be a PIA.  I've shared this before but here is a video that 
> includes a mod for easier venting.  This mod requires drilling and tapping 
> the racor head.
> 
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ <https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ>
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Thu, Sep 23, 2021, 10:14 David Knecht via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Sorry if the start of the thread was lost somewhere.  Quick summary: The 
> problem was the engine twice ran for some time and then died and would not 
> start.  When I checked the Racor later, it was half full of fuel so diagnosis 
> was either electric fuel pump not working, plugged pickup tube or vacuum leak 
> somewhere so it could not pull fuel from tank.  I have been chasing those 
> down and now confident the pump and pickup are working, and vacuum leak is 
> either in fuel line or Racor holder.  That is why I decided to replace fuel 
> lines when several listers suggested that as most likely culprit (from past 
> experience with the same problem).  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:02 AM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Also wondering if 'dont understand' goes a little deeper here
>> 
>> 
>> Do you mean the mechanical pump on your block or? 
>> 
>> Why are you chasing a fuel pump issue? Do you have a no-start? A boat dying 
>> after a certain amount of time? Etc etc 
>> 
>> On Wed, Sep 22, 2021, 10:19 AM Dave S via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> If there’s only one terminal on the pump itself then the metal chassis must 
>> be the ground. 
>> 
>> If you are referring to a schematic the ground wire may not be illustrated. 
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On Sep 22, 2021, at 10:16 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> > 
>> > I am trying to diagnose fuel issue. I dont understand pump wiring. There 
>> > appears to be only one wire to pump. Where is it grounded?
>> > 
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> > the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> > PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
> contributed to the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show 
> your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fuel pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Update on fuel issues: I spent a few hours more on the fuel system last weekend 
and things seem to be working, but unfortunately I am not sure what fixed it or 
even if it is fixed.  I replaced several more fuel lines and removed the vacuum 
gauge I had installed between the tank and the Racor just to simplify the 
possible vacuum leak points.  All the hoses looked good, but apparently you 
can’t always tell.  With the hose end heated in hot water trick, I was able to 
get the new hose on, but it was still a real battle in tight places.  The 
fittings were variable in size and style and some were really challenging.  
After completing the connections, I turned on the fuel pump, expecting it to 
pull fuel from the tank and fill the Racor bowl.  It did not.  So I opened the 
Racor bowl, filled it and tested again, and the bowl stayed full.  I pulled the 
fuel level sensor so I could see inside the tank, and I could see fuel coming 
out of the return tube from the engine.  That told me I was in fact pumping 
fuel.  I then ran the engine for 30 min and all seemed well.  
I am hoping it is fixed but it is frustrating that I don’t know what was wrong. 
 Apparently, my “does the pump fill the bowl" test was not the correct way to 
assess function.  Is it possible that when the pump is full of air it can’t 
pull enough vacuum to feed the Racor?  Also, given that the original problem 
occurred twice a week apart, with it working fine for hours in between has me 
worried it will occur again.  Intermittent problems are the worst!  Fingers 
crossed. 
 I plan to replace the Racor with a newer model with a gauge built into the lid 
before next season.  I found new filters for my 200 Turbine series, but it 
seems they are getting harder to locate.  Probably not going to run out in my 
sailing lifetime, but the newer Racors seem a decent upgrade.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When installing a hose to nipple fitting i recomnend using a hair dryer to 
> warm the hose and liquid dish soap to lube the nipple barb.  
> 
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> From: cenelson via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2021 3:09:10 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: cenelson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
>  
> Had a similar problem to yours several years ago. After doing most of what 
> you have done, my diesel mechanic suggested just replacing the Racor MA 
> 500(?) top plate since even a little over tightening can push the middle down 
> enough that the O-ring on the circumference will leak enough that after 
> running for a while the air inside it gets into the fuel lines. 
> 
> This was a cheap enough thing to do that I did it—along with a few other 
> ‘fixes’ and the problem went away. 
> 
> Since it was not the only change I made, I can’t be certain that the new top 
> plate solved the problem or if it was something else. 
> 
> Note I am pretty sure that the instructions for the Racor say to only hand 
> tighten this plate or something similar—I now know why! 
> 
> Given how little extra tightening it would take at the Center to deflect the 
> circumference/O-ring joint enough to suck air in, (probably a few microns 
> could break the vacuum seal) and over time you have air bubbles that get to 
> the engine or at least prevent fuel from getting to the engine.
> 
> FWIW,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
> 
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS 
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fapps.apple.com%2Fus%2Fapp%2Faol-news-email-weather-video%2Fid646100661=04%7C01%7C%7C4c63e0fcb6e74b16a67e08d97edecee9%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637680317687570152%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=pXd69QGBqdzp8xQNHtBbEb4CypY8i%2Fmkeu8qWLgiw6w%3D=0>
> 
> On Thursday, September 23, 2021, 12:36 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I meant bypass the Racor, turn on the pump and collect fuel into a secondary 
> container to test.  I agree that I would not run the engine that way.  I am 
> presuming that the flow of fuel through the filter should be a good test of 
> the system since the problem was I was getting air into the primary Racor 
> holder, so a vacuum leak likely somewhere.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 23, 2021, at 9:53 AM, Neil Andersen > <mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
> 
> I would think that risky.  If the Racor is the issue because it is doing its 
> job and there is particulate matter coming from the tank, bypassing it will 
> allow the matter to get to the engine. 
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am unclear on the question, but here is my experience with tridata 
transducers.  I put in a Raymarine Seatalkng network a few years.  I added a 
Airmar DST800 depth/speed/temp tri-ducer more recently which plugged right into 
the network and worked perfectly on my Raymarine chartplotter.  All I needed 
was a long Seatalk cable to get it to the port back by the engine.  The 
triducer even fit into the hole from the old transducer (not sure the brand but 
could find out) with no modification. Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Sep 25, 2021, at 7:42 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am researching this very question (can tridata work in datamarine thru hull.
> I am hoping a fellow lister might have an experience to share.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 25, 2021, at 3:29 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> When I upgraded to an es and an axiom plotters, I also upgraded to digital 
>> radar, the i50 and i60 wind, speed, and depth. I also upgraded the 
>> transducers as well. I tried to use an existing transducer from the old 
>> Garmin system to no avail. 
>> 
>> Doug
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Doug Mountjoy 
>> sv Rebecca Leah 
>> C & C Landfall 39
>> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
>> Port Orchard, WA
>> 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
>> Date: 9/25/21 10:46 (GMT-08:00)
>> To: 'Stus-List' 
>> Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument
>> 
>> Peter,
>> 
>> For your depth and speed instrument update from Datamarine to the Tridata 
>> unit from Raymarine, are you able to incorporate your existing Datamarine 
>> analog transducers using the Raymarine ITC-5 or will you need to change 
>> through hull transducers as well?
>> 
>> I’d very much like to integrate my speed and depth with a NMEA 2000 
>> chartplotter (Raymarine ES series) and eventually also add wind instruments 
>> and digital radar but not sure if I need to upgrade the transducers.
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> Half Magic
>> 
>> 83 Landfall 35
>> 
>>  
>> From: Peter W. via CnC-List  
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2021 5:47 PM
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Peter W. 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: wind instrument
>> 
>>  
>> FWIW, earlier this season, I replaced my TackTick wireless wind instrument 
>> with Raymarine's latest offering.  You may recall Raymarine acquired 
>> TackTick some years ago.  Except for the branding, The replacement is 
>> identical to the original, which worked well for 13 seasons.  In fact, the 
>> original unit still works fine for wind SPEED, but it is unreliable for 
>> DIRECTION.  Probably, I could have returned it for testing and possible 
>> repair, but I didn't want to deal with the cost of retrieval, downtime, and 
>> re-install [which assumes the unit could be repaired].  
>> 
>> I like the unit.  I don't like it when I can't get through to Raymarine.  
>> 
>> Since my old Datamarine knotmeter is finally giving it up, I purchased a 
>> suite of instruments - wind instrument + Tridata display, with wireless cap. 
>>  could this work for you?
>> 
>>  
>> Pete W.
>> 
>>  
>> Siren Song
>> 
>> '91 C 30-2
>> 
>> Irvington, Va.
>> 
>>  
>>  
>> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>>  
>> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The 
>> main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the 
>> EV-100 autopilot.
>> 
>>  
>> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC, though 
>> (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
>> 
>>  
>> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod on 
>> the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the 
>> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
>> 
>>  
>> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.
>> 
>>  
>> I have a few questions:
>> 
>>  
>> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)? My 
>> first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to 
>> an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this 
>> is mainly to control the costs.
>> 
>>  
>> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed 
>> the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed 
>> wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the 
>> wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not 
>> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with 
>> that.
>> 
>>  
>> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
>> 
>>  
>> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
>> 
>>  
>> Thanks
>> 
>>  
>> Marek
>> 
>>  
>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>> 
>> Ottawa, ON
>> 
>>  
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your 

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have had TackTick wireless wind on my mast since I bought my boat 8 years 
ago.  I have the converter box so it is on my Seatalk-ng network.  It worked 
flawlessly until this year when something happened to the speed sensor.  I have 
not yet gone up the mast to pull it for diagnosis.  I had the mast down two 
years ago and was concerned about its age so sent it to Raymarine for testing.  
They found it to be fine, but offered that if it had problems down the road, 
they would sell me a new one at a discounted price to replace it.  So I have 
been happy with how long it lasted.  If I were to replace it, it would be the 
same or perhaps the Sailtimer version (https://wi-rb.com/product/rb/).  Dave

David Knecht
Rear Commodore
Thames Yacht Club
New London, CT



> On Sep 22, 2021, at 5:47 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> FWIW, earlier this season, I replaced my TackTick wireless wind instrument 
> with Raymarine's latest offering.  You may recall Raymarine acquired TackTick 
> some years ago.  Except for the branding, The replacement is identical to the 
> original, which worked well for 13 seasons.  In fact, the original unit still 
> works fine for wind SPEED, but it is unreliable for DIRECTION.  Probably, I 
> could have returned it for testing and possible repair, but I didn't want to 
> deal with the cost of retrieval, downtime, and re-install [which assumes the 
> unit could be repaired].  
> I like the unit.  I don't like it when I can't get through to Raymarine.  
> Since my old Datamarine knotmeter is finally giving it up, I purchased a 
> suite of instruments - wind instrument + Tridata display, with wireless cap.  
> could this work for you?
> 
> Pete W.
> 
> Siren Song
> '91 C 30-2
> Irvington, Va.
> 
> 
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The main 
> reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the EV-100 
> autopilot.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC, though 
> (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
> 
>  
> 
> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod on 
> the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the 
> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
> 
>  
> 
> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
>  
> 
> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)? My 
> first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to 
> an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this is 
> mainly to control the costs.
> 
>  
> 
> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed the 
> wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed wind 
> angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the wind 
> display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not 
> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with 
> that.
> 
>  
> 
> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
> 
>  
> 
> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
>  
> 
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu