Re: Stus-List oe Rail Cleat (revisited)

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Naming a business web site “Exciting Store” certainly is lame, if nothing else. 
Sort of like the foreign car company that named one of its models the Mirage a 
number of years back.

And Ken is correct that the web site offers no way to contact the company and 
uses the .top ending so that it doesn’t have to indicate what country the 
business is based in.

So you can take your pick: Clumsy foreigners with good products with don’t 
understand English or marketing; An offshore company marketing inferior 
products; an outright scam that will swipe your credit card info and sell it to 
the highest bidder.

Having had my credit card info swiped after buying products from mysterious web 
sites in the past, I wouldn’t chance it

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Currently boatless and looking
Tierra Verde, Fl.





From: John Conklin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2018 12:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List oe Rail Cleat (revisited)

skeptical of product ? or is this safe store ? hard to see how would  work with 
top of  toe rail ? Any one else use them before ? willing to try but value my 
CC :)


Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 28, 2018, at 11:11 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I am a little skeptical, but this price is nice...

  
https://www.excitingstore.top/ys-alloy-toe-rail-spring-cleat-ys9185-200mm-p-8883.html

  Tom Buscaglia
  S/V Alera
  1990 C 37+/40
  Vashon WA
  P 206.463.9200
  C 305.409.3660


  On Jun 28, 2018, at 7:43 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Message: 3
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2018 10:42:20 -0400
From: Gary Russell 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat (revisited)
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Dennis,
I like the Force 4 solution, but at $137.55 US, it's out of my price
range.
Gary

~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List Engine Temp Gauge Not Working

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I‘m assuming the 3GMD is similar to my 2GM20. If that’s the case, the reason is 
that the buzzer and the temperature gauge require different sensors screwed 
into the engine.

I replaced the buzzer sensor wit the temperature sensor because I’d rather use 
the gauge. I thought about using a Y-shaped pipe to use both, but never got 
around to it.

You should be able to source the correct sensor locally. If you can’t, there’s 
a place called Lauderdale Speedometer in Fort Lauderdale, Fl., that has what 
you need.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Al Serrato via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2018 12:24 PM
To: C List
Cc: Al Serrato
Subject: Stus-List Engine Temp Gauge Not Working

I bought a 1981 34' with a 3GMD engine a few years ago. The temp warning buzzer 
works but the gauge has never worked, although it is in place and wired.

The Yanmar manual has a section on testing the buzzer sender unit, but I don't 
see anything about the location of the sender unit for the gauge or how to test 
it.

Looking for any advice on how to approach diagnosing the problem. Is it the 
same sender unit for both the buzzer and gauge? I haven't spent the time trying 
to trace all the wiring but was hoping to find something in the manual first 
about how the gauge is wired.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Al Serrato
1981 C 34
Senza Fine
San Francisco Bay




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Stus-List Questions about 33-2 centerboard

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

So I’m interested in a 1985 C 33-2 that is for sale near me and may still be 
around when I’m boat hunting in a couple of months. I’ve read the posts on the 
33-2, but  have a question about the well-known mast step problems.
Some posts seem to indicate that the K/CB models don’t have the problem at all, 
but they don’t tell why. Can anyone elaborate?
Also, I‘m wondering how difficult it is to service and maintain the centerboard 
and its cable. On my current Bristol 30 K/CB, it can be tricky.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

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Re: Stus-List Insurance issues

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Having lost a sailboat to a hurricane, I can't stress enough how important 
it is to have salvage coverage.


My C 25 washed up in a Florida crocodile protected area on Key Biscayne. 
Federal park rangers were irritated and wanted it gone NOW. Salvage 
companies were starting their quotes at 10K, and there was no other way to 
clean up the wreckage.


Imagine my relief when the problem went away with a single phone call to 
Progressive insurance. They told me to have the rangers call them. And they 
cut me a check within a couple of weeks.



Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Re: Stus-List insurance

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I live on the west coast of Florida, on an island called Tierra Verde. I had 
Progressive for years because it had a good deal for smaller, older boats in 
the hurricane zone – about $500 a year for 10K coverage and, more importantly 
here, liability and full salvage, in case the boat gets whacked in a storm.
Then the premium began creeping up noticeably every year, until it was about 
$800.
I checked out BoatUS and found, to my amazement, that its formerly huge 
premiums for Florida had dropped to where I could get better coverage than 
Progressive for $400 a year. Again, no survey, just photos and a self-reported 
form on the boat’s condition.
I’m holding my breath to see what happens at renewal time after this past 
hurricane season.
I’m also thinking about a larger cruising boat (maybe even a C again!), so 
I’m bracing myself for that. A friend with an Island Packet 37 that he cruises 
all over says he pays 5K a year on a boat worth maybe 150K.
Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Florida has a wonderful discount for “antique” vessels at least 30 years old.
I think I pay $5 a year – as opposed to maybe $135 – because I sail a good old 
boat. Florida also requires a state decal for federally documented vessels such 
as mine, by the way.
Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

Yes, it’s a sore subject for PA boaters on Lake Erie.  The law was changed 
several years ago to require State registration of Federally documented 
recreational vessels.  Registrations last two years, then must be renewed.  I 
don’t put my stickers on the bow, but they are affixed to fiberglass supports 
(port and starboard) for the main traveler and are clearly visible.  Don’t want 
to give my good friends at the PFBC another reason to board.



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Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Sounds like an abandoned vessel to me. It is common in Florida for people with 
decrepit boats in the water to simply anchor them and row away to avoid paying 
salvage costs. Of course, they scrape off all identifying numbers.

Is there an anchorage nearby? Any tackle onboard? I’ve heard of people moving 
abandoned boats after being frustrated by the unwillingness of the authorities 
to deal with the problem. Maybe you use an old Danforth from your garage with 
some rusty chain and 100 feet of scrap rode.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

Edd, I hate to say it but you’re involved in a bucket of s … well, let’s say a 
can of worms.



Some states have abandoned and derelict boat laws, most don’t seem to. And 
local laws are sometimes conflicting and hard to find. (For example, the local 
regulations in New Bern, NC are part of the local zoning code and Oriental, NC 
– where there are more sailboats than people – has no regulation at all.) I 
wouldn’t expect too much from the USCG because they seem to be pretty 
disinterested unless the offending boat is a hazard to navigation. I’m rapidly 
gaining expertise on this because of growing problems we’re having in the 
harbor an Washington, NC, where I manage the municipal marina.



In North Carolina you can send a registered letter to the last owner of record 
for the offending boat. If he doesn’t claim the letter in 30 days, or if he 
gets the letter but does nothing, you can go to the State and apply for title 
to the vessel, which takes another couple of weeks. Then you can move, sell, 
dispose of, or scrap the boat because it is yours.



I’d start by contacting the state agency that handles registration of boats in 
the state where the boat is currently. They can tell you what your options are.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC









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Stus-List Wild alternator prices

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

So here’s a cautionary tale on buying diesel parts:

The bearings went bad on the alternator on my Yanmar 2gm20f. This is an 
alternator once made by Hitachi that used to run about $120 or so. Yanmar would 
rebrand them and sell the units as its own for many dollars more.

I did an Internet search and discovered Hitachi apparently no longer makes 
these alternators. The good news (I think)): Some nameless offshore company is 
manufacturing replacements. Companies are selling them as their own (most with 
the same stock photo) for $70 to $130.

So, before ordering, I call my local Yanmar dealers to see whether he has it in 
stock and whether I can do my bit to keep him solvent by buying from him.

Sure, we have them, the saleswoman says. Yanmar brand: $850. I choke and ask 
about aftermarket: $400. Remanufactured? $210. I end up saying sorry, but I can 
have it delivered to my door in four days for $79.

All of my customer loyalty went out the window with those kinds of markups on 
an alternator that sells for maybe $30 wholesale.  Now I’m wondering whether I 
can buy my filters, impellers, hoses, etc., at a deep discount by shopping 
online.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.









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Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

And just when my boat insurance premiums were starting to go down ...

The boat slaughter is going to be in places like the Keys, Biscayne Bay and 
West Palm Beach, where lots of boats are hanging on moorings or even just 
anchors. There just aren’t that many places to hide. The few hurricane holes 
are so crowded that one loose boat can play havoc.

Other places, like Fort Lauderdale, Boca Raton and North Miami, most boats are 
kept at private docks behind homes. Those offer pretty good to excellent 
protection.

Where I am, over on the west coast, there are many free anchorages where boats 
are just hanging on anchors. Even if we just get the edge of Irma, as 
predicted, the shorelines will be cluttered with sailboats, many of them 
junkers that near-homeless people were living on.

Luckily, my marina in Gulfport, Fl., is a hurricane hole.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl. (In the cone of danger, just barely.)





From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2017 11:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

yachtsalvage.com will have a lot of new listings in the coming months.

Bad time to charter in the Caribbean.  I read that the photo was The Moorings 
fleet in the BVIs.

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Time to go shopping for a slightly-used cat…   :^(

  — Fred


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 7, 2017, at 9:51 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

This is a sad picture: 
http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2017/09/07/11/43FCB37F0578-4861184-Boats_piled_up_as_the_eye_of_Hurricane_Irma_passed_over_Tortola_-a-4_1504778890915.jpg

Sadly,
Randy

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--

Joel
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Donald:

It seems to me the tough part in any case is how you connect the old cable 
to the new.


When you're hauled out, you can tape them together. When you're underwater? 
I dunno. A thin messenger line tied to the old cable and the new one? If the 
connector is bulky, it may get hung up while going through a sheave.


Maybe someone on the list has a better idea. I've seen a ton of clever 
solutions pop up here over the years.



Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

-Original Message- 
From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Jack,

Thanks for the information.  I like that as an option.

The complication in all of this is the closest travel lift is a 4-5 day one 
way motoring trip up the Ohio to Cincinnati.My closest local option to 
lift would require a de-masting with a crane I hire in myself as their lift 
cannot accommodate masts taller than 30 ft or so.  With the haul out, crane 
rental, lift rental, 2nd crane rental, and relaunch I would have several 
thousand just in those services.I think the diver may be cheaper.


Thanks,

Donald












On Jun 12, 2017, at 3:47 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


One alternative to consider is replacing the cable with high-tech line 
such as Amsteel Blue. This is an increasingly common strategy for avoiding 
steel cables failing without notice.


Amsteel Blue is stronger than the same size steel cable, impervious to 
salt water and resistant to abrasion. UV is its only weak point, which is 
not an issue with a centerboard cable.


On my current sailboat, I just replaced an Amsteel Blue line that had 
served as a centerboard cable for eight years. The rigger who did the 
(simple) job for me said it could have lasted eight more years. No wear or 
deterioration at all.


The rigger's approach was to put a Brummel splice in the centerboard end, 
then loop the line through it to connect to the board. Then connect the 
new cable to the old one and crank it up.


If you're near a yard with a Travel Lift, you should be able to get a 
two-hour short haul for about $200. That would be plenty of time to do the 
job. I think the rigger charged me $75 in labor plus $20-something for the 
Amsteel Blue.


Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





-Original Message- From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian
Subject: Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Paul,

Thank you very much for the information.I’ll contact them today.I’m 
thinking its just the fitting at the actual keel as I can’t pull the 
actual line up so I think the loop is still attach, or the loop is no 
longer a loop but the swagging is still attached and not able to pul 
through the hole.


Thanks again.

Donald






On Jun 12, 2017, at 8:35 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



I have a 33-II with a centreboard whose pendant broke a couple of years 
ago. I had Rob From South Shore yachts make and install the new one. They 
had an eye fitting roll swagged on the lower end, which the fed down and 
attached with a pin to the board, then hand swagged 2 fittings to make 
the eye on the deck end.


When hauled the board swung just far enough forward to allow you to reach 
up and remove and replace the pin. Have a new pin ready! Ours was just 
about worse thru.


Contact for Rob MacLachlan at South Shore Yachts 
sa...@southshoreyachts.com, or try calling (works better) 
tel:905-468-4340



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Donald 
Sebastian via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 2:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Donald Sebastian <donaldsebast...@me.com>
Subject: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

Hello all,

I have a C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going 
on.My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin 
that the cable attaches to has broken.


I have a few questions:

1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great 
option to pull locally without demasting.
2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the 
keel from droppiing too far?
3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?


Thanks,

Donald

Louisville, KY


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Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

If you’re 30 miles offshore, maybe a PFD is prolonging the agony.

But I know of one person who went overboard in Tampa Bay with a lifejacket and 
no harness. He was glad to have it. It kept him afloat for the 20 minutes or so 
it took for the boat to turn around and fetch him.

In the nearshore/bay/lake/river conditions that many of us sail regularly, it’s 
very possible to get rescued by a passing boat as long as you can stay afloat 
for a time. When I was a newspaper reporter in South Florida, it happened 
periodically in Biscayne Bay.

If I were being dragged with my lifejacket/harness on, I would cut the line 
connecting me to the boat with the knife I always carry and take my chances on 
a passing boat.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

Agreed (don't go over), but if you do fall in the water, don't wear a PFD that 
won't help...

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 7:36 AM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  If you are being dragged in the water, you are probably dead, or soon to be 
regardless of being face up or face down, or if the boat gets turned around and 
manages to even locate you. Set up your jacklines, etc, as if the water is 
really molten lava. Chances of recovery of someone who goes overboard with a 
full crew aboard are statistically VERY low no matter what, and if you are a 
single-hander, then your chances are essentially non-existent. Plan accordingly.


  Bill Bina




  On 3/29/2017 7:22 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List wrote:

Just a thought on the foam pfd's; if they are water ski/kayak activity 
vests, they probably won't keep you face up if you are unconscious (and not 
being dragged through the water by the jacklines).

Tim
Ex 35/3






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Re: Stus-List DIY Marinas

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Yeah, but like all West Marines these days, half the floor is taken up with 
clothes and fishing gear ...

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 4:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List DIY Marinas

The worlds's largest West Marine is nearby too.

Joel

On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 3:48 PM, Lloyd Lippe via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


  thanks Jack,

  will look into Playboy Marina.the name sure is interesting.appreciate 
your reply.

  Lloyd





  From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 3:45 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Jack Brennan
  Subject: Re: Stus-List DIY Marinas

  Lloyd:

  I don’t know about DIY yards in St. Lucie but, 100 miles to the south, there 
is a great DIY yard called Playboy Marina in Fort Lauderdale.

  Prices are extremely reasonable compared to other Florida yards – the vast 
majority of which don’t allow DIY at all – and the yard has a full contingent 
of boat workers from the islands who can help you with anything you’re stuck 
on. (Be sure to bargain ...)

  Nearby is the famous Sailorman chandlery with a warehouse full of new and 
used parts, as well as the decent Boatowners Warehouse a couple of blocks away.

  Jack Brennan
  Former C 25
  Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
  Tierra Verde, Fl.

  From: Lloyd Lippe via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 10:12 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Lloyd Lippe
  Subject: Stus-List DIY Marinas


  Hello LIsters,
  Just curious if anyone has a recommendation for a good DIY yard around St. 
Lucie and Ft. Pierce area.  I thank and appreciate any responses in advance.

  Lloyd Lippe
  Finesse
  C Landfall 39


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301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List DIY Marinas

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Lloyd:

I don’t know about DIY yards in St. Lucie but, 100 miles to the south, there is 
a great DIY yard called Playboy Marina in Fort Lauderdale.

Prices are extremely reasonable compared to other Florida yards – the vast 
majority of which don’t allow DIY at all – and the yard has a full contingent 
of boat workers from the islands who can help you with anything you’re stuck 
on. (Be sure to bargain ...)

Nearby is the famous Sailorman chandlery with a warehouse full of new and used 
parts, as well as the decent Boatowners Warehouse a couple of blocks away.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Lloyd Lippe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lloyd Lippe
Subject: Stus-List DIY Marinas


Hello LIsters,
Just curious if anyone has a recommendation for a good DIY yard around St. 
Lucie and Ft. Pierce area.  I thank and appreciate any responses in advance.

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
C Landfall 39




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Re: Stus-List Boom Height - 1981 25 MKII

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Sandy:

I had a 1975 C 25, and I installed an off-the-shelf bimini with no problem. 
As I remember, I didn’t have standing headroom, but I really didn’t need it 
because you usually sit with a tiller anyway.

I’m 6 feet, 2 inches tall, and a slight crouch would get me forward to the 
cabin with no problem.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: sandy rankin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2017 2:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sandy rankin
Subject: Stus-List Boom Height - 1981 25 MKII

Hello All

New owner of a 1981 25 MKII. Stumbled across this group while doing my research.

As the season nears i've been rummaging through bags and bags of "stuff" that 
came with the boat, trying to acquaint myself with what I've got. It came with 
an old trashed dodger but no bimini.

One of our top priorities is a bimini as i am  fair skinned and turn the shade 
of a cooked lobster rather quickly when exposed to any kind of sun. Our local 
canvas maker said that based on his specs, we would only be able to use a 
bimini covering the area aft of the boom while sailing because of the height of 
the boom. A connector to the dodger could then be added while at anchor.

Can anyone tell me the height of the boom on this model? (We bought this boat 
at the end of the season last year and the mast was already down)

If indeed it is too low, has anyone raised the boom or shortened the leech to 
get the additional height for a bimini to be usable?

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

Sandy
1981 C 25 MKII
Lake Ontario





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Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

If you’re not using davits, you have to factor in how well the inflatable fits 
on your foredeck for inflating/deflating as well as carrying it on short day 
trips. Towing slows you down and gets dicey when the seas pick up.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2017 3:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob McLaughlin
Subject: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

Relocating our C 110 from a Midwest lake where I had no need for a tender to 
now sailing on Narragansett Bay, LI Sound, Buzzard's Bay, Vineyard and 
Nantucket Sounds, etc, I'm in need of a basic inflatable to serve as a tender 
in harbors without a launch service.  I've used them many times on charters but 
never really paid much attention to detail.

I'm looking for something relatively compact for 2-4 people that is easy to set 
up and collapse and stow, so I think that's best a roll-up.  Early in my 
thinking, I'm eyeing something like the 8'6" Achillies LSI-260: 4 person 
capacity/820lbs, Hypalon, overall weight 64 lbs, inflatable floor, with perhaps 
a ~4-5HP outboard. (Or maybe the 9'6" or 10'2" LSI versions of the same 
design..) I don't think I need a boat to plane, just basic transportation.  No 
davits, it will either be towed or stowed.

I welcome input from those of you with inflatable experience to share your 
thoughts on brands, material, features, design, size, etc.  What factors should 
I be considering as I make my selection?

Regards,
Bob McLaughlin
C 110 "Blue Devil"






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Re: Stus-List Deceitful USCG Documentation Renewal Company

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

The company does provide a service, but it’s a shady one that skirts the edge 
of legality because it misleads people into believing that it is a governmental 
agency (note the .us domain name.)

A search around the Internet will reveal any number of companies offering 
similar, unscrupulous “services” in a variety of areas.

For example, if you have a web site, companies will send you emails offering to 
renew your domain name for way more than the actual cost while purporting to be 
the agency that registers them.

You will also find web sites in the U.S. that masquerade as state agencies for 
driver’s license registration.

When my daughters were in college, there was even a web site that tried to 
divert parents filing FAFSA applications for financial aid. That would be 
comforting, giving all of that personal info to shady web operators.

The fact is, everyone needs to be very, very careful whenever doing any 
business on the web. Buying something from an unknown company offering a great 
deal can set you up for trouble. I had my credit card number stolen a couple of 
times over the years after buying from small web sites with poor security.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.








From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2017 12:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deceitful USCG Documentation Renewal Company

Nobody likes getting fooled or taken advantage of.  Good on you guys for 
warning one another and the rest of the list.  However, there are lots of 3rd 
party "documentation specialists".  This site doesn't falsify who they are AND 
includes a disclosure about who they are and what they do.

For the past 5 years of my documentation the USCG NVDC has sent me a renewal 
notice near the end of each year, listed the means of renewing the 
documentation, provided a due date, and listed the cost.  A few years ago the 
price went from $5 to $26.  I expect this practice and price to continue into 
the future.  IIRC there is currently no way to pay via credit card or file 
online so each year I dust off the check book and write another single check, 
sign and return the form to NVDC via snail mail.

The only change I've heard of possibly coming in the future is a 3 year 
documentation but as of yet that has not been implemented.

Good luck on your quest to punish this company for "predatory" or "deceitful" 
practices but the company is simply providing a service.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Slip choice

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Try using a spring line when you back out. It takes all of the drama out of 
leaving a slip.

I have a 30-foot length of floating line that I tie off to the starboard cleat 
at the stern of the boat. When I’m ready to leave, I route it around a cleat on 
the rear piling and then back to the cockpit, where I hold it loosely in one 
hand.

As I back out, I put a little tension on the floating line as it runs out. This 
pulls the stern to starboard and the bow faces out in the correct direction for 
the channel. It has worked for years in all currents and winds, once you do it 
a couple of times and get a feel for it.

A floating line means that you avoid the possibility of it wrapping around the 
prop. Reel it in at your leisure as you’re heading out.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




From: Peter Burford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2016 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Burford
Subject: Stus-List Slip choice

Our C 29 also has the offset prop and the prop walk is pretty severe.  We’re 
in a slip, with the dock on the port side.



I’ve found the trick to overcoming the prop walk is to turn the wheel about a 
quarter-turn to starboard when backing out.  If you do this before you put the 
boat in reverse, it backs out straight.



Had plenty of amusing exits before figuring this out!





Peter Burford

C 29 “Imagine”

Ithaca NY






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Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

This may be basic, but are you folks giving it 3/4 to full throttle when you 
crank, as suggested by the Yanmar manual? After it starts, you immediately pull 
back to idle to let the oil circulate.

When I got my first diesel-powered sailboat with a diesel. I didn’t know to do 
this and sometimes had long cranks to start. Now it catches almost immediately.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Re: Stus-List Autohelm ST4000+ configuration settings for 33

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Check the belt in the housing that is attached to the wheel. You have to remove 
the housing from the wheel and pry it open. Chances are, by your description, 
that the belt is worn and slipping.

Replacement belts can be found online. Make sure you get the right one. 
Raymarine made a black housing and a gray one with different length belts.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




From: Doug Welch via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2016 8:18 PM
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm ST4000+ configuration settings for 33

I have just acquired a new to me ST4000+ and am having trouble with the 
autopilot snaking through the water with each turn taking me farther off 
course. I hope this is a configuration issue and would appreciate any input on 
the correct settings. I have a 33-2.

Thanks,
Doug



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Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration! / Hot nights

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Tampa Bay is already at 90 degrees, and it’s just starting to get warm ...

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2016 7:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration! / Hot nights

This is a water temp thing. By August you can easily be floating in 85+ degree 
water here and I am betting Lake Lanier too. One memorable summer our marina 
pool was 92 degrees!

I exchanged the big fan for one that does not make a racket and my wife loves 
it. The big blades move a lot of air on LOW and that is dead quiet.



Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com



Coquina

C 35 MK I



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Re: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Hi Steve:

I assume you're still in Florida? With the temperatures in the mid 80s 
already, you will be surprised how quickly the epoxy kicks and cures. Don't 
dawdle after you mix it. One day is plenty of time to cure in this heat, in 
my experience.


Good luck with the new boat.


Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



-Original Message- 
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Stus-List West System cored hull time to cure


I am contemplating installing a new transducer in a cored hull, but have 
only 2 days till scheduled launch. If I do it, it will be a 2 inch hole, and 
I want to do it right.


The process I have got from the list over the years is in a nutshell,as 
follows:
Once the hole is cut, and the core dug out to some range around the hole, 
you fill it up again with West System thickened expxy. Then drill it out 
again and proceed as with a solid hull.


How long does the epoxy take to set?
What would be a minimum time to budget for the whole process?
I have never used epoxy other than glue.

Thanks,

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



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Re: Stus-List C 25 headsail size

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I had a 150 and a 110 on my old C 25, and that was a nice selection. I also 
bought an old 170 drifter on the web that was absolutely beautiful in very 
light air.

The 25 heels to about 25 or 30 degrees and then locks in solid, so it’s not 
necessarily time to reef when you hit that point. That’s really when you start 
going like hell, as I remember.

To carry a lot of sail on the 25, you really have to learn to trim the sails 
well. A poorly trimmed main will give you a lot of weather helm and cause a 
wrestling match with the tiller.

Like others have said, it’s a great 25-footer. Mine was wrecked in Hurricane 
Wilma in South Florida. It was knocked off its mooring and apparently sailed 
all over Biscayne Bay in gusts up to 120 mph before grounding on Key Biscayne 
and losing its mast and keel.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 1:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 headsail size

Ahmet



The 25 that we raced against extensively bought a new 150 from North around 
2002 and removed the 170 from its inventory.  They also purchased a 130 and had 
a 110 or so and a new main.  They almost always raced with the 150.  When it 
became too windy for 150 they went to their 110.



That boat won more than half the races it entered over the next two seasons



Mike





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List C 25 headsail size



Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a 105, 
the other a 130.

I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an 
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.

The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.



What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without having 
to deal with excessive tenderness ?

Thank You

Ahmet

S/V Tabasco

1973 C 25Boston, MA






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Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Just curious about people’s opinions of various non-marine adhesive sealants 
that have come on the market in recent years. I’ve used this one to seal 
portlights in metal frames (not on a C) and a couple of deck fittings with 
great results.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-3-Crystal-Clear-Window-Door-Trim-and-Siding-Sealant-18362/202337643

Frankly, I’ve found it much better than the marine sealants, which always seem 
to degrade after a year or so. This stuff forms a nice, pliable gasket and 
sticks like 4200. Better yet, it dries in 30 minutes, so you don’t have to deal 
with the uncertainty of taping a portlight or fitting and hoping it doesn’t 
shift.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 10:13 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Strengths of Various Adhesives

Fred.
 Based on Don Casey's article, the 3M VHB tape is for adhesion and the 795 
DOW Corning silicone sealant is just for sealing.  No?
Gary

~~~_/)~~



On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 8:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Based on the data, it sounds like VHB with LifeSeal would be a great 
combination (four times stronger than with Dow 795).  Has anyone tried that 
yet?  Or am I going to be the first guinea pig?   :^)


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Oct 21, 2015, at 7:18 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

LifeSeal is my "go to" sealant.  Haven't used 4200 (polyurethane) or 
silicone in months.


Dennis C.



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Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Don’t forget about the Davis LED lights with long cords that plug into 12-volt 
receptacles.

http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/marine_product.asp?pnum=03300

I use one for an anchor light (I’m suspicious that many people don’t see the 
ones at the top of masts) hanging above the boom that also does a decent job of 
lighting the cockpit.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: PME via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2015 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PME
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

I have been real happy at times hanging one of these lights in the cockpits.  
They have a built-in hanger which can be used all over the boat. I store them 
hanging on the inside hand rail. They are cheap and often free (with coupon).


http://www.harborfreight.com/27-led-portable-worklightflashlight-62532.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/emergency-39-led-triangle-worklight-62158.html



-
Paul E.
1981 CC Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL






  On Aug 27, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2015 08:07:44 -0500
  From: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader lights
  Message-ID: 9aa2595b-fa49-4059-a5b8-445456f30...@gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

  The Admiral and I researched long and hard for a light to illuminate the 
cockpit for meals, etc.  We settled on a UST 10 Day Lantern by Ultimate 
Survival Technology.  Sells for under $30 on Amazon.

  http://www.ustbrands.com/product/10-day-led-lantern-glo/

  Has bright, dim and strobe. We like it.  The light is not harsh.

  Dennis C.





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Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Bill:

Here’s an excellent article on how to opt out of many of the privacy violations:

http://www.slate.com/articles/technology/bitwise/2015/08/windows_10_privacy_problems_here_s_how_bad_they_are_and_how_to_plug_them.html


Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2015 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10

Or this,



More than 14 million devices are already running Microsoft’s Windows 10 after 
its global launch on Wednesday, but it’s unclear how many of their users read 
the company’s Privacy Policy and Service Agreement before downloading. Tucked 
away in the 45 pages’ worth of terms and conditions (effective August 1) is a 
substantial power grab: The company is collecting data on much of what you do 
while using its new software.

From the moment an account is created, Microsoft begins watching. The company 
saves customers’ basic information—name, contact details, passwords, 
demographic data and credit card specifics —but it also digs a bit deeper.

Other information Microsoft saves includes Bing search queries and 
conversations with the new digital personal assistant Cortana; contents of 
private communications such as email; websites and apps visited (including 
features accessed and length of time used); and contents of private folders. 
Furthermore, “your typed and handwritten words are collected,” the Privacy 
Statement says, which many online observers liken to a keylogger. Microsoft 
says they collect the information “to provide you a personalized user 
dictionary, help you type and write on your device with better character 
recognition, and provide you with text suggestions as you type or write.”

All this information doesn’t necessarily remain with just Microsoft. The 
company says it uses the data collected for three purposes: to provide and 
improve its services; to send customers personalized promotions; and to display 
targeted advertising, which sometimes requires the information be shared with 
third parties. Microsoft mentions that though it assigns each customer a unique 
advertising ID, which is fed data during computer usage, it “does not use what 
you say in email, chat, video calls or voice mail, or your documents, photos or 
other personal files to target ads to you.” It makes no such promise for its 
other stated data collection purposes.



Bill Coleman



My take on Windows: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qMXpyxW2lkk/hqdefault.jpg




All the best,



Edd





Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log























  On Aug 6, 2015, at 9:18 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:



  I installed Windows 10 onto my Lenovo laptop with Win 7,  Install was 
flawless. Made sure that OpenCPN runs as well as Office apps.  The new browser 
will import bookmarks from another browser in seconds.  I did not have a chance 
to play with it much, but first look is very positive.




  --

  Joel
  301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Free (Not a C C) Boat...?

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

David:

I’ve owned a Bristol 30 since my CC 25 was sunk in a hurricane. They’re 
intriguing boats.

Designed by Halsey Herreshoff as a CCA racer in the ‘60s, the 30 is no match 
for IOR boats in light air. But it is surprisingly fast at 12 knots of wind and 
above. In a flat bay with no current, I’ve reached sustained speeds of 7.6 
knots more than a few times when the wind climbed into the 20s.

The nicest characteristic of the boat is that it has a smooth ride in big seas. 
It also sails well under jib only. Above 12 knots, you can drop the main and 
cruise comfortably at 5-5.5 knots with reasonable (for a full-keeled boat) 
pointing ability.

If you want to know more, you can email me offlist.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


From: David Lenehan via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Lenehan
Subject: Re: Stus-List Free (Not a C  C) Boat...?

Could be interested, David.  Details?  Or, better, contact details?


Thanks

David


On 24 July 2015 at 23:32, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Yes its an oxymoron but a friend of mine owns a Bristol 30 that is sitting in 
their backyard gathering leaves etc. (although she is shrink-wrapped).

  Would like to find it a good home for very short money (if any at all...not 
clear yet).  My understanding is take it and fix it up (I don't think it needs 
much, but its been a few years since she has been run) and its yours.

  Located on Southcoast Massachusetts.



  David F. Risch
  (401) 419-4650 (cell)




--
  Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2015 12:48:48 +
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Anyone on the list from the Sackets Harbor NY area?
  From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  CC: djhaug...@juno.com


  HI Guys,

  A boat has come into my radar in Sackets Harbor NY.  I was wondering if that 
was close to anyone and if they had, or could get any, any info on it.

  Thanks,
  Danny,
  Still Shopping
  Massachusetts

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autohelm problem

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Here’s a link to the repair manual for the 4000+:

http://www.bristolsailboats.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/st40001.pdf

If the motor works, the problem is probably inside the wheel, either the gear 
or the belt. It’s easy to take apart and investigate.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2015 10:11 PM
To: cnc-list-bounces cnc-list ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autohelm problem

Seems my Raymarine 4000STPlus has a problem.  It does not work.  The display is 
displaying and all buttons seem to work.  Today it kept displaying XTE.  I 
pulled the motor connection and read a short pulse of volts at the socket when 
I tried to change course through the controller.  The motor surged for a while 
and stopped.  It seems like the motor is OK.  The display reads a magnetic 
heading and seems to function OK, but when I push AUTO and change heading, 
nothing changes except the display heading.

Wiring problem?  I have a wired remote that may be lying under a pile of sails, 
or a tool bag.  Could that be causing interferance?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md




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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Not defending the use of antibiotics in bottom paint, but nearly all 
antifouling is toxic to marine life (which is why it’s used as antifouling ...)

Copper is nasty stuff to marine  life and to people (in sufficient doses), 
which is why the smart sailor wears a respirator and plenty of protective 
clothing when sanding and painting the bottom. Trinidad Pro, until recently, 
had an effective (read nasty) pesticide called Irgarol that ran into trouble 
with the EPA.

Those of us who are older may remember tin-based bottom paint that worked 
wonderfully, but created aquatic dead zones around your boat.

Using antibiotics unnecessarily is bad (both in farming and sailing) because 
bacteria adapt quickly and can learn to outwit particular types, making those 
antibiotics ineffective.

Just saying ... none us us has cleans hands in this. If you have a sailboat, 
you’re harming the environment to some degree.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2015 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Driscoll ; Jean-Francois J Rivard
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we 
sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of anti 
biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the 
EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable task of 
protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.

Kevin
30-2


On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I totally concur..

  You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If 
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from the 
factory.

  BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when 
we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long yet 
but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17 bottom 
every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently show-up on 
the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and my old 
bedsheet sails. :-)

  -Francois
  1990 34+ Take Five
  Lake Lanier, GA





  Message: 6
  Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
  From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net
  To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
  Message-ID:
  1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

  I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't 
add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow 
release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've 
heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I 
ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can 
tell by their confused expression, they never read the directions.

  I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.

  I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead of 
it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, 
Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked 
pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to their 
hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, and 
very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water 
requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on 
very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi 
season hard abatives.


  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 CC 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


  Regards
  François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw

  img 
src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw;

  Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 

Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Andrew:

You won't get boat coverage through your homeowner's in Florida. (God knows 
it's hard enough to GET homeowner's here because of hurricanes ...)


Your best bet is Progressive Insurance. As long as you are OK with a 
sizeable deductible, you should be able to get coverage for $300-400 a year, 
as opposed to many hundreds more for BoatUS and other private insurers.


The big reasons to have insurance are salvage and liability.

If your boat sinks and you don't have insurance, you will have to pay many 
thousands for a salvage company to float and dispose of the boat. (Florida 
waters are shallow, so the boat usually doesn't just disappear under the 
waves.)


Liability, of course, comes into play when you bang into that million-dollar 
gin palace and wreck the Awlgrip paint job.


You're correct that Seatow has a bad rep in parts of Florida for an 
overeagerness to declare salvage and make soft groundings into something 
more expensive, mostly due to individual operators out for a quick buck.


Progressive insurance will pay up to $500 to cover a tow, which likely would 
leave you with part of a bill to pay. TowboatUS covers all for $125 a year.



Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.







-Original Message- 
From: Andrew Frame via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 11:55 AM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Frame
Subject: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.


Hello folks. New guy here again.

I have discovered that SeaTow is the company to stay away from. But what
about BoatUS?

My specifics are not extreme: river sailing or always in sight of the
coast, always daytime.

My concern is liability in case of an accident with another vessel, or
some kind of disability like a dismasting due to a snapped stay.

24' CC, no engine. 45-thrust trolling motor for maneuvering, and sail
under way.

Thanks for your thoughts.


--


Andrew Frame
CC 24, Lehigh Acres/Alva, FL

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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I think it differs from insurance company to insurance company.

My current company, Progressive, does not ask about stoves and in fact does not 
require surveys. However, it likes you to have a stake in the game with high 
deductibles and relatively low upper limits. (It used to be 15-20K. I don’t 
know what it is now.) If you try for a low deductible, the rate goes way up.

Years ago, When I had BoatUS, I don’t remember being asked about the stove.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 5:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

I have no idea if my insurance company has a clue what kind of stove I have.



Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com



Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 5:07 PM
To: jtsails; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove



Yes, really.  This is no special secret that only I know about. Perhaps your 
premium is higher than it would have been otherwise, or whomever processed your 
application hadn't gotten the memo. You represent a pretty small sample group. 
:-)

Bill Bina

On 3/6/2015 4:52 PM, jtsails wrote:



  Really Bill? I had no trouble getting insurance on my boat. And I not only 
have a pressurized alcohol stove, but an Atomic four as well!

  James

  CC 38 Mk2

  Oriental, NC



  From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

  Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:55 AM

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove



  You would have also discovered that many insurance companies will not insure 
a boat with a pressurized alcohol stove. They go strictly by the numbers, and 
those stoves have a very bad track record for claims. It is one of the hot 
items they look for in the insurance survey.

  The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes are virtually 
invisible, which can also lead to unintended consequences.

  Bill Bina






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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I have a two-burner Origo non-pressurized alcohol stove. Perfectly safe, works 
well for cooking, but you have to buy a French press if you like coffee in the 
morning because there aren’t enough BTUs to percolate coffee fast enough, at 
least for me.

I use denatured alcohol from Home Depot at a fraction of the cost of “boat 
fuel.” Despite the claims of the boat fuel sellers, the generic stuff works 
perfectly fine.

If you go this way, it helps to have a propane BBQ on the stern rail for the 
occasional meal when you really want that hot flame.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Alan Bergen via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:02 AM
Cc: CC Photoalbum email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

I had CNG on my previous boat.  I liked it because of the safety factor.  It 
was easier, then, to get refills.  Not so easy now.  If you have easy access to 
refills, it's less work to convert from alcohol to CNG, than to propane, as the 
CNG canister can be stowed below.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty





CNG is what we have.  Lighter than air.  Pretty hard to find places to refill 
canister though



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan Bergen 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:43 AM
To: CC Photoalbum email list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove



Remember that propane is heavier than air.  If you install a propane stove, the 
propane must be in a compartment that vents (at the bottom) to the outside, or 
mount the propane tank outside the cabin. FYI - I just bought a Worthington 
aluminum 10 lb tank from Amazon for $130 US.  Ordered on Friday; delivered by 
US Postal Service on Sunday.



Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR



An question from another new CC 33  MK II owner.



I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol 
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not 
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8 high. Made an 
easy decision to scrap this.

Any suggestions about a new stove top would be appreciated



John from Enterprise





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Re: Stus-List Autohelm

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Burt:

I had a Raymarine 1000 tillerpilor on my old CC 25. It was easy to install, 
easy to use and in fact worked better than the 4000+ on my current boat.

The EV1000 might be a little small for your 33. With crew, gear, fuel, water, 
etc., you’re probably up to the top end of that 13,000. Better to have the 
extra power for windy days.

The unit can be disconnected quickly, but don’t drop it; They are a bit fragile 
inside. Also, buy a water-resistant Sunbrella cover for it for when it rains. 
The seals on my tillerpilot were less than perfect, and it died in a Keys 
rainstorm when water dripped onto the computer board inside.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Autohelm

I am also planning on installing an autohelm before the next launch. My boat 
(1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner) has a tiller. I have found what I believe is an 
appropriate tiller pilot from Raymarine. (EV-100). It is rated for vessels up 
to just over 13,000 lbs displacement. My boat is listed at just under 10,000 
lbs dry so I should be OK with this unit. It looks reasonably simple to 
install. I don’t have a GPS or radar (yet) so no need to interface with 
anything else.



Does anyone have experience with a tiller drive system who might be willing to 
share it? I am wondering how difficult (or easy) it is to disconnect and stow 
the drive unit when I feel like using my hiking stick. There isn’t much room in 
my cockpit (it is configured differently than the MK I) and I don’t want to 
install something that will be constantly in the way.



Burt








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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

The course from South Florida to the Bahamas is somewhere between southeast and 
south, depending on conditions, where you’re leaving from and the speed of your 
boat.

However, you can only cross from South Florida to the Bahamas when the winds 
have a southerly component.  Any wind with a northerly component opposes the 
Gulfstream, which means you will encounter short, steep and large waves that 
will make you wish you had taken up RVing.

Also, motoring allows you to run at maximum speed, which means you can keep the 
Gulfstream current at the best possible angle. If the wind slows and you get 
carried north by the current, you’ll find yourself going almost directly into 
the Gulfstream, which will take a couple of knots off your speed and make for a 
rough ride.

The reason for a night trip is that you arrive the Bahamas at a time when it’s 
easy to see coral heads.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 9:56 AM
To: Brent Driedger ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

Brent — the few times I’ve crossed the Gulf Stream to/from Bimini and the 
Bahamas, we motor-sailed.  Partly because the winds were light or right on the 
nose (going over); and partly because you DO NOT want to be stuck drifting 
around in the middle of the Gulf Stream if the weather turns.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Jan 28, 2015, at 6:21 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


  According to his blog he crossed the Gulf Stream under power at night to get 
to Bimini.  Seems like a waste of a good sailing opportunity to me but then 
again I write this from the warm comfort of my house.





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Re: Stus-List CC 26 Prop Zinc

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Why not just remove the prop and buff it clean? As long as the zinc is not 
eaten away from the bronze – the prop will be pinkish -- it should be fine.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 10:17 AM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List CC 26 Prop  Zinc

Diver who cleaned the hull of my CC says I need to change out the zinc and 
replace the prop.  The prop had buildup and while clean now has the residue 
that will enhance further growth.  The since is just normal wear and need 
replacing.

Anyone have any idea where to find both the prop and zinc?

Merry Christmas Everyone!!



Dan




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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat Micron 66

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Agreed that bottom paint is all local.

In warm water such as I have in southern/western Florida, the soft paints such 
as Micron and CSC are no good at all.

Everyone I know uses Trinidad. At the boatyard where I used to haul in Fort 
Lauderdale, I don’t think they even stocked other brands. If they did, there 
were only a few. They made it clear Trinidad was what you wanted.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 4:50 PM
To: 'Douglas Mountjoy' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat  Micron 66

Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 66 
for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from mid 
July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore I had 
previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing weekly and 
10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.



As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled.



Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a little 
brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off from the 
lawns of the homes on both shores.



Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
most expensive.



Brian



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the paddle 
wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty it is 
time to go cruising.

Doug Mountjoy

Pegasus LF38

Just west of Ballard, WA



On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure 
washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the hull 
looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the yard.  
I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 compared 
to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used in this 
area.



  The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains 
higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would 
likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat 
that races.



  Mike



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
  To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



  Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.




  On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:

I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it 
was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the 
keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too aggressive 
on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)

Bill Bina

On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

  There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you 
described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.



  It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks 
to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic 
pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with 
just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got 
the special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot 
reach the keel.



  I use it between diver trips.



  Gary

- Original Message -

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
flotation that screws onto the end of a 

Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Burt:

Where I live in Tampa Bay, everyone needs to have the hull cleaned every month 
due to algae growth. So the divers are very reasonable. They’ll come in and do 
10 or 15 boats in a marina, one after the other, 20 minutes a boat.

I pay $36 a month for a 30-foot sailboat. In Fort Lauderdale, where I used to 
live, it was $50-60 a month.

The problem with doing the boat yourself is that bottom paint is nasty stuff. 
All of that copper and algacide wind up in the water when it’s 
scraped/scrubbed. Maybe it won’t affect you; Maybe it will. I’m willing to pay 
$36 a month to take the safe route.

That said, if you’re cruising, it’s worthwhile to learn how to do it yourself. 
The price for one-off scrubbings is much more expensive than what regular 
customers pay.

One final note is that you absolutely have to have hard bottom paint. Down 
here, we use Trinidad Pro. My old CC 25 had ablative when I bought it and, the 
first time I hired a diver, he came up all blue and cursing at me. I ended up 
paying a lot of money for that hull cleaning.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 7:25 PM
To: 'Danny Haughey' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

Happy holidays to all!



Jack, how do you clean your hull? Do you do it yourself or hire it out. I am 
considering getting dive certified so I can get a set of tanks and air. Even 
with all the gear (weights, wet suit, etc.) I think it would be a lot less 
expensive in the long run and as a bonus, I would be certified to dive. Up here 
in the northeast I don’t think I would need to do it as often as you unless I 
start racing. It would also be nice to change my prop shaft zincs once during 
the season and deal with other various issues that might require me to work on 
the exterior of the hull below the water line.



Burt

On the hard in Massachusetts



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 8:10 AM
To: jackbren...@bellsouth.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice



Hello all another milestone past with the days now getting longer!



All the best to all you guys and happy holidays (whichever you may be 
celebrating)



Danny

Boatless

Massachusetts





-- Original Message --
From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice
Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:02:03 -0500

Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull 
cleanings in between.)



Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM

To: Rick Taillieu ; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice



Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...



Count down started at haul out

Paul. :)




On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

  Same to you Russ.



  Only 145 (ish) days until launch.

  I know, somebody had to start the countdown.





  Rick Taillieu

  Nemesis

  '75 CC 25  #371

  Shearwater Yacht Club

  Halifax, NS.







  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  
Melody via CnC-List
  Sent: December-21-14 15:36
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice




  To all Listers  Lurkers,

  Melody  I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter.

  Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America between 
~ 3 - 6 PM local time.

  A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also have a New 
Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well.

  We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and maybe 
some hot rums. :)

  Wish you could be here, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1
   Nanaimo


--

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  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4253/8781 - Release Date: 12/21/14

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Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Approximately 1,100 days TO haulout. (Every five years, with monthly hull 
cleanings in between.)

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 6:49 PM
To: Rick Taillieu ; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice

Sorry Rick 116 days 16 hours til Perception is launched ...

Count down started at haul out

Paul. :)


On Dec 21, 2014, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  Same to you Russ.



  Only 145 (ish) days until launch.

  I know, somebody had to start the countdown.





  Rick Taillieu

  Nemesis

  '75 CC 25  #371

  Shearwater Yacht Club

  Halifax, NS.







  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ  
Melody via CnC-List
  Sent: December-21-14 15:36
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List wishing you the best of Solstice




  To all Listers  Lurkers,

  Melody  I wish you the best of today, tonight and all through the winter.

  Many will know it is the Winter Solstice, occurring in North America between 
~ 3 - 6 PM local time.

  A time of the longest night and to make this year special we also have a New 
Moon so expect it to be the darkest night as well.

  We will celebrate with our usual fire in the backyard firepit... and maybe 
some hot rums. :)

  Wish you could be here, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1
   Nanaimo


--

  No virus found in this message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 2015.0.5577 / Virus Database: 4253/8781 - Release Date: 12/21/14

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Re: Stus-List 30 Mark II Gear Reduction Ratio

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Unfortunately, there’s no way to avoid that trip to the boat.

The Yanmar 2GM20 came with three different gear ratios. My manual is on my 
boat, but I believe they are around 2.2 2.62 and 3.2. I have the 2.62 ratio on 
a 2GM20F on a Bristol 30.

The ratio is listed on a small tag located near the rear of the engine.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2014 1:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 30 Mark II Gear Reduction Ratio

Hello and Happy Holidays,



My wife has let it be known that her Christmas list includes a new folding 
prop.  She is tired of the poor backup performance of our old Martec 2 blade.  
Looking for some recommendations.  I had a Gori on our Catalina and liked it, 
so I plan to contact them, and have also heard good things about Flexofold.  
Any others I should consider for a 30 MkII?



2nd question.  Filling out the form for the Flexofold inquiry, they are asking 
for the gear reduction ratio.  I had no plans to go down to the boat anytime 
real soon, does anybody know that number for a 1988 30 Mk II with a Yanmar 
2GM20F?



Thanks,



Jim Reinardy

30 MkII “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI




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Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Many of the paper charts in Florida are off, mostly because they’re out of date 
and/or plotted in pre-GPS days.

Boca Ciega Bay, where I keep my boat in St. Petersburg, Fl., bears no 
resemblance at all to the 1984 chart that is the latest available. There’s now 
an unmarked 20-foot-deep channel where there used to be shoals, for example, 
and most of the bay is a couple of feet deeper than charted.

Many years ago, my older daughter and I did a science project using a GPS to 
check paper charts for Biscayne Bay and the Upper Keys. Many well-traveled 
routes were dozens or hundreds of feet off, and anyone using the charts with an 
autopilot would be aground.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



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Re: Stus-List Overpriced?

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Here’s another example of overpricing to marvel over.

Not a CC, but a 1967 Bristol 29 – for $63,500. Yeah, it has been rehabbed, but 
...

http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/40263

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 3:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overpriced?

Thanks everyone for your thoughts on this...I am now comforted to know my 
investment made in 2006 has doublednow should I convince my insurance 
company of this?


Rob Abbott
AZUARA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2014/10/26 1:07 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List wrote:

  Hey Dennis,

  I don't think you'll get your price with that broker. He already has a 1971 
35 listed for $35,000. And it comes with the classic Atomic 4 for power.

  It's like he's living in the '80s.

  Cheers, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1

  (available for 35,000 CDN dollars :)

  At 06:08 AM 26/10/2014, you wrote:

I don't think that asking price is out of line at all. I'm asking 
$250,000 for Touché.  Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

It’s worth wandering around the marina and testing a couple of systems before 
buying one.

Everyone seems to have a different preference, depending on your fear of 
heights, taste for adventure, physical condition, etc.

I inherited a Mast Mate and didn’t like the spongy feel of the ladder. I tried 
an ATN Mast Climber and didn’t like it much, either, probably because I wasn’t 
using a really taut, low-stretch line. Currently, I have a four-part system 
(two double blocks) with 200 feet of line that allows me to lift myself up if 
needed.

Of course, the best system is the one I use most often – a wife who thinks it’s 
kind of fun to get lifted up the mast.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 8:54 PM
To: Josh Muckley ; CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: Travis
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

Mack Sails has one I am thinking of getting.  It is shown in the installation 
video for their Mackpack (which I am getting). They don’t advertise them, but I 
was told they do make them up and sell them for people.   You can see it in use 
about 4.5 minutes in to the video.  I am sure it would take me a lot longer to 
go up, but it looks easy to use.  Still don’t know the cost (are you listening, 
Travis?) Dave

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3RT3iajT-Elist=FLzBlwDs4NZ1W1NImTfRSC-w

On Oct 16, 2014, at 8:39 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  Here's a couple of links to spring off of for ascender climbing.  The foot 
ascenders look promissing.

  A waste strap/line can also be passed around the mast and both ends attached 
to the harness (one end on a carabiner for fast passing of obstructions).  This 
is added safety to prevent accidentally twisting upside down and you slipping 
out of the harness or chair.  This is one reason I prefer a harness.

  https://www.google.com/search?q=ascender+climbingoq=ascender

  http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascender_(climbing)

  http://youtube.com/watch?v=2LK20hvHQyA

  http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ascender-safety-101


  Josh


  On Oct 16, 2014 7:58 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Listers,

Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of 
projects -- One of which is some mast work.

Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, 
what did you use.

There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so 
it’s on my mind.

And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


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Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT






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Re: Stus-List 1984 CC 35 MIII

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

A 4-foot, 6-inch draft is shallow enough to go anywhere in Florida or the 
Bahamas. You can even sail down the Gulf side of the Keys, which is a treat, 
with plenty of free anchorages that have friendly tiki bars nearby.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2014 3:08 PM
To: Lee ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1984 CC 35 MIII

David,

I own a full-keel version of this model and support the sailing characteristics 
mentioned by others.  I still have lessons to learn on how to deal with short 
chop upwind, but I think that's me, not the boat.  I have had core issues in 
both the deck (outboard and astern of the chain plates) and hull (subsequently 
repaired at considerable effort and expense); moisture could be the determining 
factor in any purchase, so it may be worth a mini-survey before determining 
whether to proceed with a full one.

Tim
Mojito
CC 35-3
Branford, CT



On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 2:26 PM, Lee via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  David; I own a 1987 35-3 c/b and would take it anywhere ! It is quite 
seaworthy as Ihave taken it on ocean trips to as far as Marblehead , Mass, from 
the south shore of Long Island N Y. She goes very well to windward even with 
the board up thanks to a good sized shoal keel and inboard shrouds.Draft on 
this model is 4ft 2 in. Hull is cored except for thru hull areas. No delam 
issues,deck or hull.Boat came with spin gear but I don't think there were any 
differences in rig. Boat is a pleasure to sail especially to windward,although 
she tends to need a reef over 18 app. Idont know your sailing venue but I think 
you would love this boat .
  Good luck and happy sailing!!
 Lee Christiansen 1987 35-3 c/b MaggieLee
  -Original Message-
  From: David Dawes via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Mon, Oct 6, 2014 12:22 pm
  Subject: Stus-List 1984 CC 35 MIII


Hi All, asking for advice on this model.

This boat “Freya is for sale.  She is a centerboard model.

Can anyone advise on:

Suitability of 4’6” draft for Intracoastal/ Bahamas?

Does the boat go to windward well with a board?  Does anyone race the CB
version?

Weaknesses?  Is the hull cored or solid?  I hear decks of this era are cored and
have delam issues.

Suitability of this model for coastal use maybe Bahamas/ Nova Scotia/ Central
America?  Not ocean.

Any variations of this model?  For example were there tall VS short rig options
etc.

Many thanks,

David Dawes.



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Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I used to be a big fan of Sears Diehard batteries. The last set I had was 
junk. They only lasted three years and didn't perform that well, needing 
more frequent charging than the replacement pair. (I bought these from my 
marina; Interstate marine batteries, I think.)



Jack Brennan
Former CC 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



-Original Message- 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2014 11:22 PM
To: Wally Bryant ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Batteries

Wal,

What you say is perfectly true, but...

There are deminishingly few battery manufacturers in the US because of the 
impacts of environmental and OSHA regulations. And for the past decade or so 
Walmart batteries have been made by Globe Battery Div of Johnson Controls. 
They also make batteries for Interstate, NAPA, and the Sears Die Hard, among 
others.


Walmart and Sam's Club offer very good pricing, the lowest in my area, and 
good quality. The 115AH group 27 deep cycle batteries in my 38 were 
installed in 2006 and are still going strong. ( the batteries in my 25 were 
bought in 2003 and may need to be replaced soon on general principles) They 
were rated at 25AH more than the 27 deep cycles from West Marine, and cost 
less than half as much. Plus they had a 5 year warranty instead of 12 
months.


My experience with deep cycle batteries from Walmart has been very good, and 
I have no qualms about recommending them.


Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 30, 2014, at 20:04, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


And I don't want to sound cynical, but WalMart doesn't manufacture 
anything.  With the purchasing power that they have, they can dictate 
terms to any supplier.  And they do.  The battery that you get from 
WalMart or Sam's Club this year can be entirely different from the battery 
you'll get next year. It might look the same and have the same label...


Wal

you wrote:

Consumer Reports rated the Walmart batteries very highly.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Ha! My wife prefers being hoisted in a bosun’s chair, even though she’s so-so 
on sailing.

That comes from many years of roller coasters and other thrill rides.

First time one of us had to go up, I offered her a choice.  Her reply was, “I’m 
not going to do all of the work while you sit in that chair telling me what to 
do. You crank me up the mast!”

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 1:53 PM
To: Indigo ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

Just don't ask her to go up the mast to retrieve a halyard!

Joel

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 1:40 PM, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

  Some great advice!  My wife, a very reluctant sailor, sought advice years ago 
from Edwin Gaynor (RIP). She did not act on his advice - which was  go racing 
until this year. Made all the difference - along with sailing with girl friends 
on the Ideal 18s.


  --
  Jonathan
  Indigo CC 35III

  SOUTHPORT CT

  On Sep 22, 2014, at 13:26, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


All,

I’ve been lucky as well, but I can offer up some good tips:

  1. If you race the boat, get her on to the racing team. I know this may 
create the Seinfeld-esqe paradox of “Worlds Colliding”, but her comfort level 
will increase drastically when she sees the boat heeling while under the 
control of you and your able crew. A lot of her discomfort is based on safety 
concerns, and when she’s out with you, she may think you are faking it by 
pretending to enjoy the heel. Seeing it happen regularly to the delight of you 
and others will go a long way.

  2. Give her the wheel from time to time. Let her feel the power and 
control. And don’t appear nervous - if she sees you enjoying the angle while 
she’s driving, she’ll come to enjoy it while you are.

  3. Get her a big, comfy chair. We have one of these on board: 
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--high-back-go-anywhere-seat-navy-blue--10967917.
 Yes, it may interfere with getting to the winch handle. But when she’s 
comfortable on board, she’ll gladly move when you make adjustments. Plus, a 
comfy seat will cradle her and make her more comfortable. There’s a reason why 
they have bucket seats and not benches in sports cars.

  4. Let her add her personal touches on board. This past weekend, David 
Risch, possibly to protect his masculinity hard-core racing image, was very 
quick to point out that the frilly blue throw pillows in the cockpit were all 
Diane’s idea and not his. Now I know how much we all like our boats to look 
fabulous, but not, you know, FABULOUS, but, even still, just having them there, 
for her, will make the boat that much more inviting to her. Good move, David. 
And yes, the Enterprise has throw pillows on board too (but way more manly than 
the ones David has.)  :-)

  5. Attend a Rendezvous. She’ll talk with the other spouses because, 
frankly, she doesn’t want to hear the story that you’re telling the other guys 
about how you braved the latest storm or finished a race with a leaking bilge 
pump. And, surprisingly enough, you’ll find that they’re not talking about 
fashion, flowers, frilly things or how much men suck, but about their 
experiences on their boats — the exciting times, the scary times and how they 
felt when things went wrong. They won’t feel alone and they will enjoy it all, 
even the heeling, that much more.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



On Sep 22, 2014, at 12:39 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


  I've been lucky. My first admiral was gung-ho for almost anything 
thrilling, so sailing on the windows was not a problem. We used to take our 
Coronado 15 dinghy out into the ocean from Marina del Rey and up to Santa 
Monica and back - surfing down the side of waves on the way back. (she then 
co-drove the IMSA 911)

  Second admiral was much the same way - another 911 person - now the 
co-owner of Penniless - and running second in the Wednesday night B fleet (has 
a first place trophy from a few years back).

  Current admiral was raised by a father with an old Alden 46 yawl. After 
many summers spent sanding and varnishing, he would take it out when the wind 
was over 15, so it would move. Now, she doesn't like it when the rail is not 
close to the waves.

  As I said, I'm lucky.

  Gary
- Original Message -
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 9:41 AM
Subject: Stus-List wife dosen't like it when the boat leans

  I'm in the same boat (Pun intended)

  The kids dig it, every one except the dog and my wife loves to hang 
out on 

Re: Stus-List More animals on the bayou

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

A couple of weeks ago, my brothers and I were fishing off the seawall, at the 
townhouse complex where I live in Tampa Bay, when we saw a goliath grouper 
weighing many hundreds of pounds come swimming by.

Not impressed? Take a look at this video of a goliath grouper eating a 4-foot 
shark that had been hooked by a fisherman.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y27LSPcbeB4


Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.





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Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - (CC's) Keels Falling Off!

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

The keel came off my old CC 25.

Of course, it happened when it was driven ashore on Key Biscayne, Fl., during a 
120-mph hurricane called Wilma.

On the positive side, it apparently sailed itself all over Biscayne Bay during 
the height of the storm with no apparent damage until it hit shoal water. Many 
other sailboats that broke free were overwhelmed and simply disappeared.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Curtis via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 11:46 AM
To: Jack Fitzgerald ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - (CC's) Keels Falling Off!

All keels will fall off if you skip across the bottom enough.



On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:39 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, but so 
far not one report of a keel falling off either via gravity or grounding.
  Did I miss something or is the woman writing this blog just full of crap?

  Best regards,
  Jack Fitzgerald
  CC 39 TM (1974)
  # 69)
  HONEY
  US12788
  Savannah





  On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms. Gifford 
makes in her Sailing Totem blog that “(CC’s) keels are falling off!”



http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/


Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions, 
distributed by her through various channels (Sailfeed, email, f*book, etc.) is 
irresponsible and is the malady that leads to the unfortunate afflictions 
behind Rebel Heart slander and other unfortunate rumoring.



I would email, but I need to get back to work.



Kevin

Portland

30-2




Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493


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--

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel,


CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady


Port Royal,


South Carolina



cpt.b...@gmail.com



 __/) 

.







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Re: Stus-List Nice sail but dangerous waters in harbor

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Gators are a lot more docile than you think.

When my younger daughter was about 11, she did a school report on the 
Everglades. I took her on an 18-mile bike trip through Shark Valley in 
Everglades National Park.

Well, the cover of the report was a photo of her standing there in her bike 
helmet next to two medium-sized gators sunning on a canal bank.

Humans are too salty to taste good, so gators generally leave you alone. They 
get dangerous when you’re in murky water. They tend to test whether something 
is edible by taking a bite; If that’s your arm in the murky water, well, you’re 
out of luck.

When you approach them on land, they will ignore you until you get too close. 
then they will let out a big HOOF sound that will scare the pants off you, but 
they won’t attack. I’ve canoed right up next to alligators in the Everglades 
without a problem.

Once in the 1970s, a buddy of mine and I went canoeing in Everglades National 
Park with a carry-out bucket of Kentucky Fried Kitchen in addition to the 
obligatory ration of beer. Well, we had a 10-foot gator trailing us who was 
determined to get a bite of the Colonel’s best.

We finally had to beach the canoe on some dry land and eat our food. We left 
the bones to distract the alligator and went on our way without a problem.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 8:12 PM
To: schiller ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nice sail but dangerous waters in harbor

The best I can do is while nearly asleep in the quarterberth at my slip, I 
heard the unmistakable sound of a carp slamming full speed into the rudder. The 
next morning it lay dead in the water near my boat. Big too.
No alligators in Lake Winnipeg, just sea monsters.

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2014, at 5:26 PM, schiller via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  So, what exactly is a moderately sized alligator?  To me, anything bigger 
than a pet store size is bigger than a moderately sized alligator.  We don't 
have much in Lake Michigan that wants to eat us!

  Neil Schiller
  1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
  (CC 35, Mark I)
  Corsair
  538243


  On 8/15/2014 8:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Finished a couple boat jobs yesterday and decided to go out on the lake for 
a late afternoon sail.  Not much breeze but a pleasant sail nonetheless.


After the pleasant uneventful sail, I entered Mandeville Harbor afterwards 
(30 20' 50, 90 03' 46).  There was a guy on the seawall fighting a fish.  His 
buddy waved at me to move to the far side of the entrance to allow him to play 
the fish.  As I went by the fish broke the surface.  Wow!  Looked like a 3-4 
footer, species unknown.  Then his line broke.  Too bad.


I continued up the harbor into the narrow bayou and made the sharp right 
hand turnHoly Crap!  Here comes one of my marina friends in his Leopard 38 
catamaran with 20+ foot beam.  I eased as far to the edge of the channel 
watching that my shrouds didn't hit overhanging branches from a cypress tree.  
We passed with 3 feet between us.


A couple hundred yards later I had to dodge a moderately sized alligator 
swimming up the bayou.


Glad to get Touche' back into the slip.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Remember when you played the game of Life with your kids?

The winning strategy was not to accumulate the most money; It was to get the 
most life experience cards.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I painted my topsides with one-part Brightside about two years ago – flag blue 
– and have been happy with the results even in the Florida sun.

Yeah, you get a slight fading if you don’t wax. I don’t mind because it still 
looks good, and I don’t want to have to strip off wax to do an occasional 
touch-up when I scrape something. That’s another advantage. Stuff happens. And 
Brightside is easy to touch up.

My plan is to add another coat or two when I haul out every four or five years. 
That adds about two days to my yard time.

The cost to do a nice job is under $100. With good prep, there’s no problem 
with peeling or chipping. For an older small boat, I just don’t see the sense 
of spending thousands on an Awlgrip paint job.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 3:16 PM
To: 'Dennis C.' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides

Good advice, thanks. I know the PO so perhaps he could tell me what paint was 
used last.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 12:37 PM
To: Russ  Melody; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides



I second Russ' caution.  If you're not stripping the old paint, try a test spot 
first.  Paints contain solvents which may not be compatible with other paints.

When we painted Touche' a few years ago, I prepped the hull with degreaser then 
320 grit sandpaper.  We shot a test spot of Awlcraft.  It didn't stick to the 
old paint and bubbled up where a second underlying paint had been exposed.  I 
ended up stripping all the old layers of paint with a Hutchins straight line 
sander.  Don't use a disc sander!

Even after stripping, it required 3 coats of high build primer to get good 
results.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 11:07 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Burt (or is it Skip or Ship?),

Be careful with the epoxy paint. Unless they've change remarkably in twenty 
years you will have a chaulking problem down the road.

I had a deck cabin painted with epoxy on one boat and a mast on the other boat. 
Both of them started leaving a white residue after a 1/2 dozen years. The cabin 
would show on clothing (like after sitting on it) and the mast has a white mess 
at the base after a rain. (We live in a rain forest, south western Canada).

On Sweet I spent the extra bucks (~$600) for all supplies, and went with 2-pot 
urethane that the Admiral  I put on, roll  tip for cockpit, deck and cabin.

For an economical job go with the Rustoleum urethane and put the best primer 
you can underneath it. As you probably know, prep  primer is 80% of the job.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

(A4 replaced with a running take-out Yanmar diesel I got for $1500 seven years 
ago, but that's a whole 'nother topic :)


At 07:59 AM 01/08/2014, you wrote:



Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary==_NextPart_000_0519_01CFAD77.AF3D5720
Content-Language: en-us

Thanks for the offer, Joe. You never know with these old A4s.

I’m sure you are right about the estimate but I have some wiggle room before 
I get to the value of the boat. The PO was planning on salvaging the rig and 
crushing the hull so you can imagine what I might have paid. The boat looked 
tough but most of the issues (and there are a lot) are cosmetic. Â After three 
weeks we are ready to get her in the water and do some sailing before the 
season is over. I have spent so far just over $1500 and a LOT of elbow grease. 
My wife is a very good seamstress and she is willing to do the cushions 
including adding some back rests. We already have the materials in hand 
(Sunbrella). I am not using Awlgrip, just some decent deck and epoxy paint. The 
hull is in good shape and I will not be completely stripping the old paint. It 
is in good shape, just a little beat up and the wrong color. I am keeping in 
mind that this is not ever going to be a show boat. Just making it look good 
and feel good for two to spend a weekend on board. If sails come into the 
picture that number goes out the door. We will see where it all ends up but I 
am confident at this point that my efforts on this boat will (for the first 
time in my life) probably come back to me when I sell her for a bigger boat 
(the real upgrade). My guess is that I could have at least tripled my purchase 
price without doing anything but what fun is that?

Best
Skip







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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Topsides as in the hull above the waterline.

I have put nonslip Kiwigrip on the deck with great results, with white 
Brightside in the areas that don’t require nonslip. Similar situation. It looks 
good, not as good as Awlgrip, and it’s extremely easy to touch up. Very 
functional for an older sailboat that you want to look niced without putting 
$$$ into the job.

Kiwigrip goes for about $100 a gallon these days.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Burt Stratton
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 7:02 PM
To: 'Jack Brennan'
Subject: RE: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides

Thanks. “topsides” Are you talking about the hull above the waterline or the 
deck?



From: Jack Brennan [mailto:jackbren...@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 6:42 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides



I painted my topsides with one-part Brightside about two years ago – flag blue 
– and have been happy with the results even in the Florida sun.



Yeah, you get a slight fading if you don’t wax. I don’t mind because it still 
looks good, and I don’t want to have to strip off wax to do an occasional 
touch-up when I scrape something. That’s another advantage. Stuff happens. And 
Brightside is easy to touch up.



My plan is to add another coat or two when I haul out every four or five years. 
That adds about two days to my yard time.



The cost to do a nice job is under $100. With good prep, there’s no problem 
with peeling or chipping. For an older small boat, I just don’t see the sense 
of spending thousands on an Awlgrip paint job.



Jack Brennan

Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 3:16 PM

To: 'Dennis C.' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides



Good advice, thanks. I know the PO so perhaps he could tell me what paint was 
used last.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 12:37 PM
To: Russ  Melody; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC - now painting topsides



I second Russ' caution.  If you're not stripping the old paint, try a test spot 
first.  Paints contain solvents which may not be compatible with other paints.

When we painted Touche' a few years ago, I prepped the hull with degreaser then 
320 grit sandpaper.  We shot a test spot of Awlcraft.  It didn't stick to the 
old paint and bubbled up where a second underlying paint had been exposed.  I 
ended up stripping all the old layers of paint with a Hutchins straight line 
sander.  Don't use a disc sander!

Even after stripping, it required 3 coats of high build primer to get good 
results.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA



On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 11:07 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Burt (or is it Skip or Ship?),

Be careful with the epoxy paint. Unless they've change remarkably in twenty 
years you will have a chaulking problem down the road.

I had a deck cabin painted with epoxy on one boat and a mast on the other boat. 
Both of them started leaving a white residue after a 1/2 dozen years. The cabin 
would show on clothing (like after sitting on it) and the mast has a white mess 
at the base after a rain. (We live in a rain forest, south western Canada).

On Sweet I spent the extra bucks (~$600) for all supplies, and went with 2-pot 
urethane that the Admiral  I put on, roll  tip for cockpit, deck and cabin.

For an economical job go with the Rustoleum urethane and put the best primer 
you can underneath it. As you probably know, prep  primer is 80% of the job.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

(A4 replaced with a running take-out Yanmar diesel I got for $1500 seven years 
ago, but that's a whole 'nother topic :)


At 07:59 AM 01/08/2014, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary==_NextPart_000_0519_01CFAD77.AF3D5720
Content-Language: en-us

Thanks for the offer, Joe. You never know with these old A4s.

I’m sure you are right about the estimate but I have some wiggle room before 
I get to the value of the boat. The PO was planning on salvaging the rig and 
crushing the hull so you can imagine what I might have paid. The boat looked 
tough but most of the issues (and there are a lot) are cosmetic. Â After three 
weeks we are ready to get her in the water and do some sailing before the 
season is over. I have spent so far just over $1500 and a LOT of elbow grease. 
My wife is a very good seamstress and she is willing to do the cushions 
including adding some back rests. We already have the materials in hand 
(Sunbrella). I am not using Awlgrip, just some decent deck and epoxy paint. The 
hull is in good shape and I will not be completely stripping the old paint. It 
is in good shape, just a little beat up and the wrong 

Re: Stus-List Cabin fans

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

In Central Florida, love bugs are so bad that interstate rest areas have 
special spray stations so people can power wash them off the front of their 
cars. I’ve had the front of my car caked with them when I used to drive my kids 
to Orlando for the theme parks.

Personally, I hate no-see-ums. Nothing worse than bugs that bite you even 
though you can’t spot them well enough to swat them. I spent the extra money to 
buy special screening that keeps out no-see-ums.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 10:53 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin fans

Made me think of working on the boat in spring here in Louisiana.  We have an 
indigenous insect called love bugs.  They hook together butt to butt and fly in 
swarms.  They aren't good fliers.  They apparently taste bad and have no 
natural enemies except the grill, windshields and hoods of vehicles traveling 
at speed.  For easy bug removal, many here spray Pam on the fronts of their 
cars during love bug season.

They seem attracted to the color white and solvent smells like paint, gelcoat, 
epoxy, etc.  I was trying to paint my steering pedestal and thought a fan would 
help.  NOT!  Much like Wally's experience, The love bugs would get sucked onto 
the fan, get chopped in to pieces and get spit out from the blades.  Just 
disgusting.


Dennis C.






On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Thanks, Wal. With you, David, and Dennis, among others, all suggesting the 
Caframos it's a pretty easy decision.
  Bees hitting the fan...what an odd problem to have. Hope the bees are buzzing 
elsewhere and the sun is shining on you.

  Andy
  CC 40
  Peregrine

  Andrew Burton
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI
  USA02840

  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  +401 965-5260


   On Jul 22, 2014, at 20:52, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  
   Andrew Burton wrote:
   Wal, which model caframo fan? I need to install a few in Peregrine and I
   was thinking of going with the Hella Turbos, but if you like the caframo...
   Andy
  
  
   Andy - I have been using the cheapest Caframo, model 747.  Mainly because 
that all I can get.   They make others with grill enclosures, but I don't know 
if they move as much air.  I also can't recall how it compares with the air 
flow of the Hella.  It's all about moving air, and the Caframo definitely moves 
air.
  
   Like I said, I run fans 24x7, so burning them up isn't a reflection on the 
quality of the motor.  The Caframo only pulls .5 amps at high speed, and that's 
important when on the hook.
  
   To grill or not to grill.  Grills collect dust, and can make it hard to 
clean the blades.  The fan without an enclosing grill must be securely mounted, 
because if you knock it over you'll burn out the motor.  Duh.  The Caframo 
without an enclosure also really hurts your head when you walk into it, or sit 
up in bed at 2 am.  However, those blades are pretty soft and don't actually 
draw blood, and after the initial eff word I laugh because it's my own fault.  
Duh.
  
   The only real problem I have the non-enclosed fan is bees.  Really.  If a 
bee flies behind the fan and is sucked into the vortex, it usually gets smacked 
by the blade and then propelled at high velocity directly at me.  Ticked off 
and ready to sting the first thing it hits.
  
   Wal
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List USB ports and users

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

You can buy 12-volt computer fans that you can wire directly into your system, 
too. I have one that blows air into the engine compartment.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2014 9:09 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List USB ports and users

I recently installed a Blue Sea 1016 dual usb port at my navstation for 
charging our cellphones.  (The Admiral has an unlimited data plan and Pandora 
on her phone.  We have a stereo that accepts MP3 aux so we use it a lot.)


Anyway, I was wandering through a discount store and saw usb powered fans for 
cooling laptops.  Curious, I googled usb fans.  There are a LOT of usb powered 
fans out there.


Look at some of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=zg_bs_3015416011_2

http://www.amazon.com/Daffodil-UFN01-Switch-Speed-Adjustable/dp/B002C3IOZG/ref=zg_bs_3015416011_12


There are several muffin style fans for those who want to install a fan in 
their companionway hatch boards and hook it up to their batteries via a usb 
port.


I found a usb powered refrigerator that cools one can of soda.


How about this usb powered aquarium?  
http://www.smarthome.com/95640/Fascinations-FISHQ1-USB-Desktop-Aquarium/p..aspx


Just opening up some options for the list.  :)


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Gear shift

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Even scarier are people who store those one-pound camping propane bottles below 
on their boat.

These are $4 bottles with no safety gear on them. I’ve seen old ones empty 
themselves of propane after a bad fit on a stove. (Luckily, outdoors.)

I keep one canister on deck in a capped propane pipe with escape holes drilled 
in the bottom. When I use it occasionally on a Sea Swing stove, I mount it in 
the cockpit and check for leaks first.

Jack Brennan
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift

We can assume you have no propane stove then?

I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline 
engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline 
for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room!

YIKES!!!



Joe Della Barba

Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift



With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the 
primary reason I always wanted diesel.

Followed by better mileage, and longer life.  And probably more dependable. 
Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine.

On the down side, noisier,  heavier, and more expensive.



Bill Coleman

CC 39



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM
To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift



Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good 
number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel 
powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The 
A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel 
counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor 
.. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas.



Steve

Suhana, CC 32

Toronto





On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is 
it oil pan  can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not 
bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline 
fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump 
until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. 
This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on 
that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches 
fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the 
previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should 
have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune 
time  a wire with a couple alligator clips would work.



I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. 
My Ignition is my ‘stop’.



I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow 
alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel.



My gear shift is fairly easy to move.  I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear 
shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a 
definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you 
actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with 
mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. 
Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also 
recommended by many.



Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft 
coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator 
tensioner recently.



Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
CC 27 MkIII



From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM

To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift





Hi,



I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4.  I can only comment from my experience 
with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original)



Comments below in bold type





![if !supportLists]1.   ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill 
switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off 
switch that is used before turning off the ignition key 



Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch.



![if !supportLists]2.   ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump 
upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on 
with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find?



Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil.



![if !supportLists]3.   ![endif] My 

Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I own my first diesel-powered sailboat after many years of dealing with the 
headaches and expenses of outboards on smaller sailboats.

Safety issues aside, I do have to say I am in awe of diesels. My Yanmar 2GM20F 
is, hands down, the most reliable and easy-to-maintain engine I have ever 
encountered on land or water.

I hired a guy to spend two hours showing me how to maintain the engine. I’ve 
been able to do almost everything myself since then. I’ve had one breakdown in 
five years, at first thought to be the fuel pump, but later found to be a 
poorly installed vent line on the fuel tank.

Contrast that with those @#$%%^ outboards, with impossible-to-reach impellers, 
tiny cooling channels that always clog, cranky carburetors, spark plugs that 
foul regularly, etc., and there is no comparison.

Never had an A4, but I’ve always been impressed by the comments of their 
defenders. However, I’m skeptical that they come close to the reliability and 
performance of diesels.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




From: jtsails via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:50 PM
To: Jimmy Kelly ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines

I'm with you, I once saw a car crash and kill all four passengers- I sold my 
car and walk everywhere I go now.
James
S/V Delaney
1976 CC 38
Oriental, NC

Sorry for the smart ass reply, but this thread has put me in the mood
  - Original Message -
  From: Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:59 PM
  Subject: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines

  one nearby boat gas fuel explosionyou realize  the real dangerearly 
in my sailing ownerships...had experience leaking gas fuel dripping on water 
jacked muffler ..noticed when engine shutdown to begin distance race,,fuel 
smell,,it didnt take long for a crew of 11 to get pails..riggers buckets 
,etc,and drown whole engine and hot muffler...auto pumps activated  water 
fuel pumped overboard..left gas spill on water which SAR was happy to clean 
up...reason for event discovered later  fuel tank float  rubbed bottom of tank 
until wore hole in tank bottom...crew really had it together...one half did 
engine drowning..other half..hung over bow to encourage fwd pumps to engage 
...REALLY LUCKY..FUME DETECTER ALSO DEFECTIVEhad manya4s after that 
with quality fail safe fume detecters...now a hign torque diesel user


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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Ah, the infamous Yanmar click.

Basically, the Yanmar wiring harness is substandard. Originally, I replaced a 
crappy fuse in the harness and the click didn’t happen so much. I eventually 
bypassed the harness and replaced it with larger, tinned wire. Problem solved.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 11:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

Hi Everybody,



My starter is beginning to misbehave a bit. Looking for help diagnosing issue.



Symptom: Occasionally (with more frequency now) I will press the starter button 
on my Yanmar 2GM20 and nothing happens. No, turning over, etc. Just crickets. 
Then I take my finger off and try it again and it starts to turn over fine. 
Occasionally I have to press twice before it will start to engage.



Any ideas? When this happened on my classic BMW motorcycle, it was my starter 
relay. Could it be the same on my Yanmar? Whatever it is it seems electrical 
rather than mechanical.



Thanks!

Kevin

30-2




Kevin Driscoll
Portland,  Oregon
503  //  875  //  3493




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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

The hull is a dead ringer for a Bristol 24, designed by Paul Coble, as are the 
cabin and cockpit. The cove stripe also looks similar to a Bristol, although 
it’s difficult to tell for sure from the photos.

But the portlights don’t match, and the Bristol 24 was not a fractional rig, as 
far as I know.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Chuck S via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 8:22 PM
To: w...@wbryant.com ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

Correct.  Alberg didn't design the 25, but they sold alot of them.  I owned a 
22 that was one of Alberg's last designs.  Strong boat, though needed wind to 
come alive.  Really sliced through waves.  Vee hull, no flat spots.  

The boat in the ad is an older Cape Dory 25, hence the Scape Dory title?  
Just sayin.






From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 2, 2014 12:13:22 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?


Alberg was my first thought, although the listed designer for the Cape
Dory 25 is George Stadel. Definitely follows the Carl Alberg lines, and
Alberg designed the first Cape Dory yacht.  (I'm not an expert, I just
know how to use Google. G)


Those Alberg boats were so beautiful that little mom and pop shops in
Taiwan were making molds from existing hulls.  (BTW, that was also done
with the CC 40, if memory serves.  I saw one once, and was amazed that
they didn't even fill in the stars.  The owner insisted that it was just
like a Swan, only better...)


And don't get me started on the concept of things needing no other
reason to exist other than they're pretty.  Heck, I saw a young couple
on a bus today, and the boy was totally ensmattered.  Heck, even I was
entranced.  But when she stood up and got off the bus, I knew she'd be
fat in five years.


Wal


Andrew wrote:
 I think she has an Alberg look to her, too. Gorgeous little boat.
 Some things on this planet need no other reason to exists beyond the fact 
 they're pretty.



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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I’ve used Goretex packing for about four years. I get a very occasional drip, 
and the packing box is cool to the touch after hours of running.

I suspect that means yours is too tight.

There’s lots of advice about Goretex on the web. The ones I read said that if 
the packing nut is too tight, you have to repack because the Goretex won’t 
expand out. I sop[pose it wouldn’t hurt to try, though, before packing.

The good news is that once you get it right, you shouldn’t have to touch it for 
many years. It has been about three years since I had the hose changed on my 
prop shaft stuffinh box, and I have not had to adjust it once.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2014 2:45 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box

Splashing and first motor/sail is always such an interesting (read frustrating) 
time.  Aries splashed on Friday and I moved it to its summer mooring yesterday. 
 I would some year like to make this trip with no issues, but so far it has 
never happened.

1.  The autopilot circuit breaker popped every time I tried to activate it, so 
that is a project for the future.  I presume something is frozen preventing the 
motor from turning the gear, although how that would happen sitting under a 
cover for a few months would happen is mysterious to me.  I will disassemble 
(again) and try to fix it.

2.  I tried to install the new Tides Marine track system on  my mast.  The test 
piece of track went in smoothly, so the size is right.  But when I tried to 
install the actual track, the welded boom attachment fitting prevented a smooth 
entry of the track into the slot and I was unable to get it to slide in at all. 
 Has anyone faced this problem and solved it?

3.  The question I expect someone can answer is about the stuffing box.  I 
repacked it with Gore packing and then hand tightened the collar while the boat 
was on the hard.  When launched, I saw no dripping at all at the dock.  After 
running for about 30 minutes there was still no dripping while motoring and the 
coupling was quite hot.  How hot would this get if adjusted correctly?  Should 
I loosen the coupling until it drips a bit while running? 


David Knecht
Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT






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Re: Stus-List Plugged exhaust - help!

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

It's almost certainly the mixer elbow.

I replaced it on my 2GM20F a couple of months ago. Take the manifold and the 
elbow off as one. (You won't be able to separate them anyway.) There are 
four bolts where the manifold connects to the engine.


A new manifold, elbow, connector and gasket cost me about $225 US. It's not 
a difficult job, provided you have access.


As a temporary fix, try removing the water intake hose and using a coat 
hanger to clear the passage. Even if this works, you still need to replace 
the elbow.


Yes, you need water in the exhaust to avoid melting it.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

-Original Message- 
From: Dave Lane via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 6:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Plugged exhaust - help!

Well, as things usually go, something that worked in the fall doesn't in
the spring.

The engine starts but no cooling water flows out the exhaust - I did not
need to find this out on launch day!

Anyway, this is a CC 29-2 with 2GM-F engine. I diagnosed it and it's
fine all the way to and including the raw water out of the heat
exchanger. When I blow into the hose going into the u-shaped exhaust
mixer, it's plugged. The engine exhaust itself seems fine. After it goes
through the mixer, there is about a 2 ID hose to the muffler then
another 2 hose to the stern port.

This problem may have been getting worse as the years went by as last
year I was thinking the water flow was not as much as previous years.

Questions:

1. Is it likely that the blockage is in the mixer? Any suggestion for
what I should try next?
2. The mixer has a right angle elbow going into it - should I try to
remove it? Or stick I wire in it to try to unclog it?
3. In order to motor slowly home (a few miles) from the marina, I made
a run to Canadian Tire for stuff and I plugged the exhaust water input
to the mixer and made a temporary hose from the heat exchanger that I
could feed out of the cockpit locker and over the side (the water flow
was great). Can engine be run without water flowing through the muffler?
(ie. does it depend on water cooling?)

Thanks in advance,

Dave
St. Margaret's Bay, NS
Vela CC 29-2

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Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

Jack:

You’ll make much, much better time staying outside once you reach Florida. 
Especially from the Treasure Coast on south, there are endless drawbridges.

As a longtime East Coast of Florida sailor, I’ve never understood the 
attraction of motoring down the ICW. As long as you stay inside during major 
fronts, you won’t have any problems on the outside. With a crew of five, you 
should eat up 150 miles a day easy sailing/motoring in the ocean as opposed to 
maybe 50 on the inside.

As the Gulfstream gets closer to shore, say West Palm, stay in about 40 or 50 
feet of water to avoid the northbound current. Avoid the smaller inlets; 
they’re treacherous. You want to use the same ports as the big ships.

Prevailing winds are east/southeast with occasional souths. On a normal day, 
beating or motorsailing into the wind is not a problem along the coast.

Also, I don’t know what your air draft is, but I suspect it is substantial. 
Sixty-five feet is the max for fixed bridges on the ICW, and there are a couple 
of 55-footers, including one close to downtown Miami.

Your five-foot draft should make it through most of the Intracoastal in 
Florida, although that might not be the case in Georgia and some points north, 
according to accounts I’ve read.

With a 5-foot draft, you should at least think about cutting the corner by 
picking up the Yacht Channel at Marathon and going 45 miles across Florida Bay 
as opposed to a couple of hundred miles to Key West and back.

Hawk’s Channel on the Atlantic side is the safe way to go in the Keys with a 
big boat, but it’s difficult to sail at night due to all of the coral reefs. 
Your draft will work on the Intracoastal (Gulf side) in the Keys at least as 
far as Marathon, as long as you accept the possibility of a soft grounding in 
random spots where shoaling has happened. (Buy a Towboat US card.)

Gulf side has many more anchorages and tiki bars, big pluses in my book.

Sounds like a fun trip. Good luck.

Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.



From: Jack McCall via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2014 9:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C  C,SHOAL DRAFT WTIH 
CENTERBOARD

Hello,



My name is Jack McCall and I just purchased POP'AYE a C  C 41 with shoal draft 
keel and centerboard.  The boat is currently on its cradle at Gregory's Marina, 
Detroit, Michigan.  Next week I will fly up to Detroit and with my five man 
crew we plan to sail the boat down to Venice, Florida where I currently live.  
We plan to cross Lake Erie and take the Erie Canal to the Hudson river.  Sail 
down the Hudson River out New York Harbor and then down the East Coast to 
Norfolk, VA where we will enter the ICW (Inter-Coastal-Waterway) which we will 
follow all the way to South Florida. Next will be outside down to Key West and 
then around and up the West Coast of Florida to her new dock in Venice, Florida.



Has anyone out there made this trip in a C  C ???  I can use all the advice 
and tips anyone might offer.  Experience with laying the mast down and securing 
it on deck for the transit of the Erie Canal is our first challenge.  There are 
several marinas at both ends of the canal which have jib cranes to assist in 
the take down and stand up but I could use some advice as to the type of stands 
we should make to carry the mast on deck.  Any advice as to retuning the rig 
when we stand it back up would be appreciated.  I cannot find any  tuning 
specifications and/or tips for the C  C 41.  I have acquired several cruising 
guides for the ICW but first had knowledge is always the best.



Plan to be in the water by May 15 and then off to Florida by May 19.  I will 
try to post some reports as our trip progresses.



Aye for now,



Jack McCall




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Re: Stus-List Furler Choice

[Jack Brennan via CnC-List]

I see Harken has a style of furler developed to be affordable for coastal 
cruising called the ESP.


http://www.westmarine.com/big-boat-furlers/harken--esp-jib-furling-and-reefing-boat-length-20-to-28--14136303

At about 1K, it's way more affordable than the more sophisticated Harken 
units and comparable in price to the cheaper furlers on the market.


I would think buying the Harken Unit 0 or 1 would be an issue for a 26 
because, by the time you finished the project with rigging, sails, etc., you 
will have spent big , possibly approaching the value of the boat itself.


Jack Brennan
Former CC 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

-Original Message- 
From: Allen White via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2014 10:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Furler Choice

With much talk recently of the merits of a furling headsail, I have decided
to bite the bullet, install a new furler and have a new sail made for my 26.
Someone mentioned that they were quite pleased with their Superfurl. I seem
to get a different answer from each person I ask this question:
What is the best choice for a furler on a small boat?

Allen

Allen White
1977 C  C 26



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