Try Vaseline on the bolt
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of David Swensen via
CnC-List
Sent: August 27, 2020 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Swensen
Subject: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3
Fellow listers,
I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint. She
It was mentioned earlier, but bears repeating. Like the previous poster, I
thought the pink stuff was for winterizing, not for engine coolant. I believe
the pink stuff uses propylene glycol which is safe for drinking water systems.
I thought the gold standard for engine coolant is still
Or paste wax
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:18 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
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> Try Vaseline on the bolt
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> *From:* CnC-List
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> *On Behalf Of *David Swensen via CnC-List
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> *Sent:* August 27, 2020 3:11 PM
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> *To:*
*OAT* coolant is pink. OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the
corrosion protection offered by a *coolant* of this type. It's still a
marine and automotive coolant.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Fellow listers,
I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint.
She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and
have raised the hull a few inches. The forward bolt is still draining (
and it smells?).
The most aft bolt is the one that was
We returned from our brief cruise yesterday and had no problems motoring. I
just finished a discussion with PYI to see whether the Maxprop could be the
cause of the vibration and they said the symptoms are consistent with the
Maxprop needing to be reconditioned. They said that if there is too
Just had my prop rebuilt. Plan on about 4 weeks turnaround time from
removal to install.
Josh
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 14:27 David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:
> We returned from our brief cruise yesterday and had no problems motoring.
> I just finished a discussion with PYI to see whether the
You should separate the boat from the keel. When I had mine done, there was
a huge void around the forward keel bolt. The yard hosed out the hole from
underneath, and it smelled really bad. Then they ground the stub and the
top of the keel, epoxied the keel back onto the stub and filled the void
I haven't been following this thread, but I might add that a loose prop can
lead to a worn cutless bearing which can lead to a scored shaft.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 11:27 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> We
Alan,
Epoxy and glass is a bit different than G10 (which is technically
fiberglass and epoxy.) The rated compression and deflection strength are
competitive with any other material. Especially when you get to the 1/2
inch thickness.
No?
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On
Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same but
more environmentally friendly?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL
On Thursday, August 27, 2020, 02:56:18 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
OAT coolant is pink. OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive)
I had no voids and I did not separate the hull and keel, but this would have
made excavating the filled part much easier, in addition to being able to
address the keel to hull joint.
I would reassemble prior to adding any compression posts and refilling the keel
void of course. Wrap the
Some symptoms that I experienced before my recent transmission repair were:
(1) a significant delay in shifting into forward (5 to 10 minutes), and
(2) transmission fluid leakage from the shaft seals.
I’m sure there are other symptoms that I did not experience myself.
Bob
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy
Better? Maybe/maybe not.
http://knowhow.napaonline.com/what-is-hoat-coolant-4-things-you-need-to-know/
Ethylene glycol isn't actually bad for the environment. It readily breaks
down and degrades. It's just toxic to aminals should they ingest it. On
the other hand, many other coolants may not
Plenty of detail on keel work here- mine and others.
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/c-33-mk-ii-keel-and-mast-step-work.html?m=1
I think any sense epoxy/glass would be fine to replace the wedges.
You can also use ‘tack tape’ reversed to protect the bolts. One advantage of
this vs wax
Hi David,
I'm still working on the rebuild of the mast step on our 33-2, which has a lot
of similarities with your boat. The grid that support the mast is a bit
different and your hull is balsa core, but overall, it is a C of the same era.
I don't want to be alarmist, but a friend with a 35-3
I have no idea. I use the orange stuff.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 3:30 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Dennis, is that any better than the ethylene gylcol standard, or the same
> but more environmentally friendly?
Don't use epoxy/glass to replace the wedges. There's tremendous pressure on
them when the keep bolts are tightened, and they won't hold up. Have them
made out of stainless.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020 at 2:31 PM Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
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