My 1995 C 36XL/Kcb is used mainly for local club racing with occasional
forays to CRW. I think her PHRF of 120 is reasonable and at CRW she finished in
the middle of her PHRF class in spinnaker racing boat for boat with a similarly
rated J-30 whose rating was the same because of a penalty for
Aol app for iOS
On Friday, January 8, 2021, 8:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike wrote:
#yiv8608729690 #yiv8608729690 -- P
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv8608729690
does your yard allow owners to sand their own bottoms?
From: cenelson via CnC-List
Sent: January 8, 2021 9:26 PM
To: C List
Cc: cenelson
Thanks to all who responded to my bottom paint inquiry. Between your responses,
my diver’s thoughts and a little thought of my own, I have a plan:
1. I am sticking with a hard ablative, Petite Vivid or Odyssey?
2. Rough up/sand the entire bottom and feather any edges where the old paint
flaked
Any thoughts about Kiwi grip?.
Relatively cheap, easily applied and tinted by DIYers and it holds up well.
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On Monday, January 25, 2021, 7:31 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
wrote:
I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George
ell enough to beat me downwind
:) I looked at the Selden sprits too. I may have to join the arms race in my
club. Cheers,Randy
On Jan 21, 2021, at 12:12 PM, cenelson via CnC-List
wrote: I’d be interested in how your new sprit changes your PHRF rating. I
have thought about adding a sprit as
I’d be interested in how your new sprit changes your PHRF rating.
I have thought about adding a sprit as well for limited crew racing or cruising
and the Seldon looks well engineered.
In my case, my anchor roller complicates the matter in terms of fitting the
sprit pole but the rating hit is
The bottom paint store.com has it now in 4 colors at ~ $245/gallon with free
shipping. Can’t find any reviews on it on-line yet. Delivery to NC from
someplace (don’t recall site name!) was ~$17/gallon.
Am not plugging it but at the site above it is currently cheaper than Vivid!
FWIW,
Charlie
A rigger I know uses a cordless Milwaukee right angle drill to hoist his crew
(or for them to hoist him.)
This is a serious tool and uses at least a 20V battery—I doubt a 12V drill
would work for any serious lift/grind.
Back a few years ago it went for ~$400.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C
Thank you.
I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone
who is familiar with wooden boat construction.
More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely
what I will need to do.
Thanks again,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL
;color:windowtext;}#yiv4457809377
.yiv4457809377MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4457809377
div.yiv4457809377WordSection1 {}#yiv4457809377
Maybe South Shore?
From: cenelson via CnC-List
Sent: February-01-21 10:08 AM
To: Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List'
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus
INHO, Magic was just slower than Luna Rossa for some reason(s).
I also think Spithill was better than Barker in the prestarts—maybe because
Magic was slower—it’s complicated.
OTOH, Luna’s victory over a slower/handicapped boat and crew in this round
robin is unlikely to mean much when they face
t Thomas Point 34 -
Katana
On Jan 30, 2021, at 5:06 PM, cenelson via CnC-List
wrote:
+1 on why race Chuck. All your points are valid and they match my own reasons
for doing it—plus a few more.
I got into sailing late in life and had a terrific mentor who was a champion
sailor at Old Dominion in col
Not familiar with handcuffs as you refer to them?
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On Saturday, January 30, 2021, 4:36 AM, Matthew via CnC-List
wrote:
#yiv2822607878 #yiv2822607878 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered
{}#yiv2822607878 #yiv2822607878 p.yiv2822607878MsoNormal,
+1 on why race Chuck. All your points are valid and they match my own reasons
for doing it—plus a few more.
I got into sailing late in life and had a terrific mentor who was a champion
sailor at Old Dominion in college. So I learned what it took to get a boat to
maximize its potential—all in
Hey Dennis,
I always thought that it would be faster/easier to hoist the kite for port
rounding from the starboard/high side.
I couldn’t wrap my head around how to do it on my boat.
You suggest to just ‘swap’ the halyards inside the mast and have the port kite
halyard exit the starboard side and
I have used Kiwi but not tinted it. I have heard/read that it is done easily at
paint stores/big box stores etc. So I think it is pretty easy to do and match
if you have a sample from your boat for them to use for the match.
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36XL/kcbWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL
Thank you—knowing that, it is amazing that he was able to stand on the rescue
ship per the video!!
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Thursday, July 1, 2021, 2:19 PM, Randal Stafford
wrote:
At 2:20 in the video a voice says the captain is very tired and has been at sea
for at least
+1 on all comments on how fly it safely—especially fully hoisting it!
On one of my earlier kite disasters, we failed to notice that our hoist was 6-8
feet short of full hoist with my masthead full shouldered kite during a
practice run dead downwind.
The wind was up, of course, and within 15-20
Thanks Andy—they are the one that my local rigger would send my rigging to for
evaluation.
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Friday, March 12, 2021, 10:30 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
wrote:
I had the rig out of my 40 a year before I sold her and reheaded most of the
shrouds. It
Agree with the 2 pump philosophy with only one caveat from my almost disastrous
experience many years ago which only involved 1 pump.
I made the mistake of having shore power hooked up and bilge pump powered on
when my float switch failed while at my dock. The bilge pump dutifully ran in
My deck is mostly covered with non-skid Kiwi-Grip which I had a applied by a
local yard at least 5 years ago—likely more like 8-10–and it still is in great
shape.
OTOH, the non-non skid needs some serious work! However there is so little of
it, it’s almost like ‘trim’ and taping it off would be
I considered adding the Seldon sprit but my anchor ‘roller’ doesn’t leave
enough room for the pole diameter recommended.
Was this not a problem on your respective boats? Or did you modify the roller
assembly to allow the sprit to fit?
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On
Not surprisingly, I got lost in the forest and forgot about the tree!
I went with 155% based on what others use in the Southport, NC area but
slightly heavier weight to survive the average higher breeze there vs. the
upper Neuse river.
Charlie
Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
On
Most of my 1995 C deck was covered with Kiwi Grip about 5 years ago which has
held up well and is easily refreshed/redone with additional coats when/where it
wears away.
There are a few ‘trim’ areas in the cockpit sole and the mostly vertical seats,
the aft facing bulkheads on either side of
I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer implements use
hydraulics) about 8 yrs ago for $260.
Still no leaks—!
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 5:54 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all,
I'm getting rid of my
, April 15, 2021, 6:10 PM, Riley Anderson
wrote:
Charlie, that's good to hear. Did you also have to buy the seal kit or did the
hydraulic shop have what you need?
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 6:06 PM cenelson via CnC-List
wrote:
I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer
In benign conditions, I would forgetaboutit! My 36XL had a baby stay which
besides being a PITA for tacking was mostly unnecessary for my rig, whose 3
spreaders are not swept aft. For my masthead rig, it’s primary purpose was to
reduce/eliminate mast pumping in a seaway since my mast is not a
While YMMV, I found that my attempts at fuel polishing with my ~ 35 gallon tank
were a waste of money (when the yard did it) or time, bother and mess when I
did it.
Unless you clean the gunk out of the tank, no amount of new or old (but
polished) fuel will prevent gunk from gumming up your
I added a pair of in-line filter/pumps (in parallel and electrically
switchable).
After multiple engine stalls over many months and the subsequent searches for
vacuum leaks/fuel starvation/etc. ad nauseam my mechanic suggested I bypass the
Beta-28 fuel pump. He thought that it was likely
I use a ~ 30 watt solar to keep my batteries topped off without using shore
power even when it is available. It is wired directly to my start battery and
my ACR keeps both batteries topped off.
My question is should I put a fuse in the positive output from the solar
controller—IIRC it has a
I had my main cabin head/ceiling brush painted with 1 part Brightsides
(Pettit?) White and it looks better than new—especially the plastic hole covers
which now finally match the ceiling. Amazing how much nicer/finished this looks
compared to the original.
Of course about 25 years have gone by
My local rigger is taking no chances re-rigging my 95 C 36XL. He sent it all
to Rigging Only(?) in Rhode Is and will reinstall with new which has been
matched exactly.
Some parts of older rigging are often not available and must be replaced with
similar or manufactured ($$$) to match.
I bit
W/L racing is also ‘encouraged’ by some PROs when their mark boats are limited
to only 1. Much easier to adjust the course if you only need to either adjust
the line or move only 1 or at most 2 marks (W and L).
Moving a jibe mark efficiently to provide a ‘more perfect’ triangle usually
requires
If it runs freely and rpms increase normally w/o trans engaged, I would look at
the trans, packing gland too tight/shaft not aligned/cutless
bearing/etc.——-something that is ‘aft’ of the engine.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Wednesday, September 8, 2021, 1:43 AM,
Agree with Chuck and Randy.
The DIY approach many of us have with regard to our boat systems is not likely
to be adequate for current Li batteries of which I know nothing except they can
be charged rapidly and they keep going rather well until they don’t!
When the battery and charger
Where can I find more boat info—is she on a listing somewhere?
In particular, how has her cb been ‘permanently’ raised? What might be involved
in making it retractable again?
Charlie Nelson1995 C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, September 11, 2021,
FWIW, I advise careful consideration of a hydraulic steering system.
I have only helmed one boat with such a system which we tried unsuccessfully to
sail to Bermuda in November.
Notwithstanding the folly of attempting such a crossing from NC after hurricane
season (early November) but with
Who knows—they were different boats although the cb design was pretty similar!
Further there are competing influences in play—dropping board adds to wetted
surface, mast height, etc. plus if the cb trunk and board were mostly copied
and added to a smaller, lighter, shorter water line boat like
Yes— but only the below deck stuff which is glued on—not sure if it’s the same
stuff you are referring to.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Monday, September 20, 2021, 7:55 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List
wrote:
Has anyone use the EVA teak marine decking? If so do you
Will do—the agent was independent and perhaps under different rules from
Progressive. I tried with him since the on-line process was a PITA but if I can
save some money, I can take a little PITA.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, October 12, 2021, 3:31 PM, Joe
Has it been determined that C never skipped some hull numbers as different
modifications to say a 30 Mk I were incorporated.
In that case perhaps hull number 129 was followed by hull #200 which was the
same ‘model’ but incorporated a new/improved something or other.
Skipping numbers in a
Try RV outfitters—Camping World carries wider and thicker butyl tape.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, October 2, 2021, 9:29 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List
wrote:
A related question: does anyone know of a comparable butyl tape that is
wider?
On 02.10.2021
Had a similar problem to yours several years ago. After doing most of what you
have done, my diesel mechanic suggested just replacing the Racor MA 500(?) top
plate since even a little over tightening can push the middle down enough that
the O-ring on the circumference will leak enough that
Joel:
I may have one that might work—came from Beta 28 that needed a different
reduction ratio for the folding prop I installed.
If there is a chance it would work (need details of reduction ratio, etc.) it’s
his for the shipping cost.
I can check out what this transmission’s specs are by middle
You might also consider a Forte whisker or spin pole. I have both on Water
Phantom and they have worked well for almost 20 years.
When I bought mine (spin first) they were less expensive than the Forespar
equivalent and the were made on a mandrel with biaxial carbon fiber impregnated
with
Sounds like a great idea—I look forward to list ideas. One key is to place
gauge where it can be seen easily—on the engine control panel is not ideal
considering the contortions one must endure to read anything in most engine
panels placed down low and with barely enough room to get your head
I hope my experience in brackish NC sound/rivers is similar. Tried it for first
time this past spring.
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC 36 XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, October 23, 2021, 2:17 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
wrote:
#yiv4134281910 #yiv4134281910 --
I have used the Plexus (I think) that Lewmar recommended on two different small
hatches on my 1995 C
One I think I did twice in 25+ years, the other is still holding.
Given the stress that can be put on the handle/portlight plastic ‘joint’, I was
amazed that it held at all—certainly would not
I have decided to replace my standing rigging on Water Phantom, my now 26 yr
old 1995 C XL/kcb.
The rigger has recommended staying with a rod replacement vs. wire to better
match the rod fittings, esp. at the mast head and to save money.
He also recommends going with dyneema, instead of wire,
If actually used as a cutting board, is there a recommended stain/varnish/etc.
to apply to the board to enhance its longevity?
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Saturday, February 19, 2022, 2:39 PM, Stu via CnC-List
wrote:
On Monday, 21st of February,
1+ to recommendations for a serious evaluation of this issue by someone who
really knows boats—naval engineer, architect, whatever, unless of course your
sailing venue (current and future) is inshore in reasonable temperature waters
and perhaps within easy reach of rescue and that you require
This looks like a serious repair that involves the forestay which is essential
for rig stability and boat/crew safety—much more than cosmetic IMHO.
I have done many cosmetic repairs to my boat, including some serious
fibreglass/epoxy work as well as building a wooden dinghy with the stitch and
I still have the original headsail winches on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb--Lewmar
50s self-tailing 2 speed IIRC--although I moved them forward for my local
racing needs. I also added a set of Lewmar 44s to make kite handling more
reasonable. If this combination of 'power' is not enough, I need to get
Always have a look for used winches on eBay. If they were used Lewmars, these
are mostly indestructible so used is fine. That is how I got my ST Lewmar 44s
at $500 each. Compared to ~ $2000 each new.
Charlie NelsonWater phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, September 12,
You can get a winch service kit from Lewmar/Defender/West Marine with grease,
pawls, springs, etc for a few bucks.
Clean them up, replace any bad springs/pawls, light oil on the pawls, grease
(from kit) on spindles/teeth (?), reassemble and you will be likely as good as
new. There are Lewmar
I had Water Phantom repainted 10+ years ago with Awlgrip—used Aristo Blue since
the Flag Blue original color was so dark as to be almost black and I wanted
something brighter.
Several years in (5?) after a serious encounter with a piling caused by trying
to dock her in a flood tide running
I have used bed-it butyl tape for many bedding applications such as winches,
ports, etc. with success, although I often wished it was available in thicker
and wider dimensions.
OTOH, butyl tape (not bed-it) is available at most RV stores and I have used
this version with equal success.
The RV
A great idea although my mast is not routinely removed—twice since new in 1995.
At least this solution allows the cable to be disconnected and reconnected
without cutting it, which the Shakespeare connector requires.
Of course, I would need a ‘crimper’ for the male connectors—as another poster
I agree!
You might also look at Northstar (?) all virgin lead AGM batteries that come
with (or used to) a very good warranty—full replacement up to 3 yrs IIRC.
Sold at Batteries plus stores (and probably others). One of my crew left the
fridge on when he left the boat and ruined 2 31 size
+1 on Dometic.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, June 14, 2022, 11:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
March/Dometic. Most reliable in my opinion.
--
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Jun 14, 2022 at 10:16 AM CHARLES
OTOH, as I age I often forget that I fixed/replaced/rebuilt/etc. a particular
piece of gear previously—often even forgetting how I fixed it before.
Thus most projects are ‘new’ to my aging brain!
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC 36XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, June 21,
In my case, the sheets are led down to the tack as the sleeve is hoisted over
the sail.
Charlie
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, June 21, 2022, 8:24 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
wrote:
So, do you zip down to your sheets, and zip up to them, or do you take the
sheets off
Depending on your DIY skills and the local rigger fees, etc. you might consider
the following which I recentlyhad done on my 27 yr old rod rigging on my C 36
XL/kcb.
A local rigger removed and shipped my original rod rigging to BSI or Rigging
Only (?) for them to duplicate exactly. He then
Love my in-boom purchase!
My 1995 36 XL has a ‘magic’ 2, 3 or 4 purchase within the boom for the out
haul.(can’t recall exactly). Whatever it is, it can be used in any breeze in
which we do not need to reef our main (our go-to reefing).
Once we need to reef the main, there is no need for this
Also consider yards in coastal or the sounds of NC. Plenty of DIY yards in the
Pamlico Sound, Neuse River, Albemarle Sound, Southport, NC.
Those away from the Atlantic coast are mostly very reasonable in cost with
decent amenities and most allow DIY work although boats with drafts of ~ 5+ ft
Great info and from someone who knows about dip pole or other kite maneuvers!
If the after guard, including the trimmers, are paying attention the
appropriate sheets and guys are in their proper places, just displaced from
each other fore and aft as my tactician prefers.
I am now convinced that
Note that on my recent renewal with Boat/US there were mileage limits on the
tow depending on the level of insurance.
The old unlimited may still be available but don’t assume that your coverage
includes it——“caveat emptor” or something like that!!
OTOH, before I returned to Boat/US, my towing
Last things first, my rule of thumb (origin lost to memory) is to have enough
threads to match the diameter of the bolt: thus a 1/4 x 20 bolt should have a
minimum of 5 threads (20/4 = 5). Threads beyond that are overkill.
Next I would consider using a oscillating tool to cut away the inner
I have always had a sailmaker/salesperson measure my boat for any sail—whether
national (Hood, North) or local. Given the sail costs for my 36 XL and the
limited number of hulls made, I didn’t trust myself to make the measurements or
to rely on some sail database.
For my latest 3Di 155%, the
Similar to my recent (2020/2021) 155% 3Di from North. No luff cover-I use a
sleeve—and IIRC it was ~$6600 all in.
It was of medium weight for potential racing near the ocean and hopefully for
better longevity!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
I don’t do much night racing but when I did, I found stanchion flashlight
mounts very useful.
Aim the pair at your favorite tell tales (or at all of the tell tales if you
have multiple pairs of mounts and flashlights) with a red filter on them and
you’re good to go. Don’t remember where I got
Given the light weight of ‘Sticky back’( presumed to be plastic type film that
serves as a sail cover when the head sail is furled), I doubt that it is the
problem with your leech. (Before I went with a furling sock, I had new carbon
sails that had something similar on them for UV protection—
Great idea Alan, esp. attaching them ‘backwards’!
I will have to use some old cassette tapes instead.
What do you use to attach/stick them to the sail?
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Tuesday, February 28, 2023, 12:32 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
wrote:
I also suffer from engine anxiety after dealing with unreliable diesel
operation over about 2 years, during which time it would quit, usually
immediately restart, run for several minutes or several hours and then quit,
repeat, etc.
The most recent fix (electric fuel pump x2, switchable) with
My 1995 C 36 XL/kcb had a hole as well--I found it as I was cleaning out the
mast step to drill a hole!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
On Sunday, July 2, 2023, 02:27:26 PM EDT, Matt Wolford via CnC-List
wrote:
My 1978 C 34 had a small hole drilled in it, presumably for that purpose.
My electric is wired to the ignition switch and I can hear it ‘purr’ before I
switch the key to start—a nice simple confirmation that it is working every
time I need it.
My diesel mechanic just bypassed the mechanical lift pump—left it in place but
not within the fuel flow lines.
Charlie
If you have been keeping up with your filter changes (primary, secondary,
Racor, etc.) and the boat is used regularly, my bet is on an air leak somewhere
in the fuel system, perhaps generated by changing your filters.
An overtightened Racor can deform the lid and allow air in and any change in
Cool. Sounds like you did everything you could in the time you had to do it and
did it well.
Plus you had a boat that could take it as long as you ‘helped her out’.
I like to refer to such a boat as one that is smart enough to withstand some
crew errors and tough enough not to come apart in
Got it.
Calibrating the gauge can be done albeit crudely by starting with an empty tank
and adding x-gallons y-times until the tank is full WHILE simultaneously
noting/marking the fuel gauge ‘face’ as you go. Pretty crude and slow and with
the small size of most fuel gauges not very precise.
I agree with you regarding purging air, warming up not so much.
If your purging air theory is correct, there must be a small air/vacumn leak
somewhere in your system between the tank and injectors that lets air in the
system while the boat in sitting in the water between your uses of it.
When
Apparently you have an electric fuel pump. Some of these, at least the small
one I use, have in-line filters
that are built into the pump and not removable—they are integral to the pump.
The only way to replace the filter is to replace the pump or have 2
pump/filters in parallel so they can be
Unless your tank is a rectangular cube, any measurements based on the height of
fuel in it will be approximate at best. And even then, if it is not ‘level’ on
any axis, it won’t be accurate.
For instance, my tank’s bottom is shaped to follow the hull shape for a secure
fit. Of course, when down
Hey Richard,
My 36XL (1995) has a centerboard rigged identically as yours and I have had the
board replaced when my cable parted after ~ 16 years. Thus I am more familiar
with my cb than I’d like!!
1. If the sound is ‘new’ and it does this with the board up, something has
changed so that the
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
Begin forwarded message:
On Monday, August 14, 2023, 12:01 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
Hey Richard,
My 36XL (1995) has a centerboard rigged identically as yours and I have had the
board replaced when my cable parted after ~ 16 years. Thus I am more
:38 PM EDT, cenelson--- via CnC-List
wrote:
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
Begin forwarded message:
On Monday, August 14, 2023, 12:01 PM, cenel...@aol.com wrote:
Hey Richard,
My 36XL (1995) has a centerboard rigged identically as yours and I have had the
board replaced when my
Great detailed write-up Dennis!
If I had known it was coming, I might have done the equivalent rebuild of my 28
year old Navtec/Sailtec unit myself. Alas, I just picked it up from my local
hydraulic shop after a complete rebuild including the internal seals, etc.
about 3 weeks ago!
Initially
I would be in for several rugby shirts as shown.
I would also be interested in some polo shirts of similar design and any others
(like the 'dry' shirts, etc.) with the same design.
Those C in the southern US, etc. would get limited use from a true rugby
shirt but a similar designed polo or dry
Thanks for that information—amazing what expertise is available via the
listers—big shoutout to Stu!!
My thought is that the shop could source all the o-rings/seals needed but they
might not want to bother with the detective work involved and this time would
drive up the repair cost.
A ‘kit’
For the 2nd time in its 30 yr life, I left my Navtec cylinder with the local
hydraulic shop for a rebuild.
Unfortunately it’s so old that complete rebuild kits are not available but he
is replacing what he can with what is available re seals, etc.
Since it is basically a manual pump and assuming
pole on my previous boat, an
Ericson 2-30, and until I stopped racing a year ago, I continued using dip pole
gybes (mor than forty years of racing that way.
Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OR
On Sun, Nov 12, 2023 at 2:03 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List
wrote:
Hey listers,
My
Hey listers,
My 1995 C 36 XL/kcb was originally set-up for dip-pole jibes using an
aluminum pole and used the bayonet style fittings.
After it disappeared from my storage location, I decided to go with a carbon
fiber pole from Forte and fit it for end-for-end jibes since it was now pretty
light
I moved my original Lewmar 50 winches and added additional Lewmar 44 winches to
my 1995 36XL/Kcb and added backing plates to all of them but did not glass the
plates in place—this would have required destruction of a lot more of the
interior headliner.
I had used starboard previously but this
My bilge pump breaker has recently started to disconnect immediately after
being switched on.
I suspect my rule pump has failed and developed a short to ground although it
might be a wire that has either shorted or it might be the water witch float
switch.
My thought is to just replace the pump
the pump. Similarly, You can also disconnect the pump, and
measure the wiring and the pump’s resistance separately. Same idea.
Dave Ex 33-2
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 7, 2024, at 10:09 PM, cenelson--- via CnC-List
wrote:
My bilge pump breaker has recently started to disconnect
I replaced it on my 1995 36 XL/kcb a few years ago. IIRC, total material and
labor and shipping was about $7000.
This included the rigging and removal of old and installation of new.
Charlie Nelson
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Sunday, April 14, 2024, 8:29 AM, sail51--- via
Aside from replacing the Racor filter regularly, I think it’s a good idea to
drain the bowl when you change the filter.
I usually change this filter yearly when I change the fuel filters on my Beta
28.But it is possible for gunk to build up in the bowl which is mostly
transparent but can cause
if
it looked brand new. They were pretty sure they couldn’t do a proper look
without doing enough damage to make replacement needed after the survey even if
it wasn’t before☹
Joe
Coquina
From: cenelson--- via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2024 9:02 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: sai
On Sunday, April 7, 2024, 10:09:55 PM EDT, cenelson--- via CnC-List
wrote:
My bilge pump breaker has recently started to disconnect immediately after
being switched on.
I suspect my rule pump has failed and developed a short to ground although it
might be a wire that has either shorted
98 matches
Mail list logo
