wl1 wrote:
> Another C16 and C20 success here, thanks for posting the detailed
> info.[emoji851]
A quick note to say that the proposed fix (C16 & C20 replacement) works
also for an old SqueezeBox2 whose volume was very very low for the
two analog outputs. It is worth trying! Not
I replaced my C16 wih a 10uF 16V Non-Polarised capacitor and it fixed
the problem for me. Many thanks for the info!
Nick
ralphy wrote:
> Well, I finally replaced the C16 and C20 capacitors in my original
> slimdevices sb3, back when you could by them without the wireless card.
>
> I used
For Sb3 repair - If not already read, JoeMuc's blog is worth looking at
https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2018/11/logitech-slimdevices-squeezebox-classic.html
bpa's Profile:
thanks to this great forum thread, I was able to repair one of my two
dead Logitech Squeezebox 3 by just removing the Wifi card.
I'm wondering what could be done for the other.
I see someone mentioning a thread to verify power at different
location.
I will go on in this direction.
So cool to
Cross-posting a question here: the analog output of my Receiver has quit
working. It looks like the Receiver analog output stage uses the same
silver can caps as the SB3. Are they known to suffer the same type of
failures?
philippe_44 resurrected two of my sb3s by replacing all the caps. They
had been constantly re-booting, even after I tried new power supplies,
or removing the wi-fi board for direct ethernet connection.
With the new caps, they are 100% reliable again. (I didn't have the
soldering skills to do
Just resurrected my SB3 thanks to this thread. Relatively easy to do. I
twisted off the caps (see this video for demo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8N9O3a9jiM ) and soldered in a pair of
Elna Silmic Audio capacitors bought off eBay seller 'closedcube' in the
UK for £5.46 including postage.
Add me to the list of folks that swapped out caps C16 and C20, and can
now use my player again (without buying an external DAC)! Thanks to all
who posted before me, especially ralphy for the detailed instructions
and excellent pictures, and majones, whose comment led me to this
beels wrote:
> The Q3 component is a thyristor. I replaced it, but still have no
> display.
>
> Given that I have a totally dead display, I'm not sure it's worth the
> effort to re-cap this board.
Don't put it in the bin. Per previous mails, you should contact Joe if
you are in EU. If you
The Q3 component is a thyristor. I replaced it, but still have no
display.
Given that I have a totally dead display, I'm not sure it's worth the
effort to re-cap this board.
beels's Profile:
Thanks phillipe. That would be really nice if you could get some Q2
measurements. Then maybe I can see if I need to order that part as
well.
beels's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=10980
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beels wrote:
> Well, philippe, I think you have inspired me to re-cap board. Thanks so
> much for the part numbers! It would've taken me a long time to get all
> the part numbers, and I might have made errors. I went through your
> list and noticed that you didn't mention the 2 through-hole
Well, philippe, I think you have inspired me to re-cap board. Thanks so
much for the part numbers! It would've taken me a long time to get all
the part numbers, and I might have made errors. I went through your
list and noticed that you didn't mention the 2 through-hole caps. Do
you replace
beels wrote:
> Philippe,
>
> Have you ever had a SB with the condition of an uncontrollable scrolling
> display that regressed to a dead display, like mine? And if so were you
> able to fix it with a re-cap? Are you talking only about the
> electrolytics - like about only 25 capacitors? Or
Philippe,
Have you ever had a SB with the condition of an uncontrollable scrolling
display that regressed to a dead display, like mine? And if so were you
able to fix it with a re-cap? Are you talking only about the
electrolytics - like about only 25 capacitors? Or did you do ALL caps?
Have
beels wrote:
> I checked all the larger e-caps (in-circuit) with an ESR tester and
> found five of interest:
>
>
> These two are almost certainly bad, however, they are apparently related
> to the audio, so not implicated in my primary "dead/no display" issue:
> C16 - 3.68 uF, ESR > 40 ohm
>
I checked all the larger e-caps (in-circuit) with an ESR tester and
found five of interest:
These two are almost certainly bad, however, they are apparently related
to the audio, so not implicated in my primary "dead/no display" issue:
C16 - 3.68 uF, ESR > 40 ohm
C20 - 4.25 uF, ESR > 40 ohm
beels wrote:
> Yes, I tried the Xlinx reset and the other ones you listed. Dead.
> Thanks for the suggestion though.
>
> On another thread, I found some voltage check points I was able to pass.
> And it seems like the 5V voltage regulator is working.
>
> I'm going to use an ESR meter to do
Yes, I tried the Xlinx reset and the other ones you listed. Dead.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
On another thread, I found some voltage check points I was able to pass.
And it seems like the 5V voltage regulator is working.
I'm going to use an ESR meter to do some capacitor testing. I'd
beels wrote:
> My Classic v3 recently started scrolling uncontrollably (push up or down
> arrow once, and display continues to scroll). Now it is DOA except for
> a faint glow of the Toslink jack. I tried a new power supply; no
> improvement.
>
> Are there some obvious troubleshooting steps
beels wrote:
> Thanks for the response.
> Oh yeah, I forgot to add that I did try it without the WiFi card
> installed. Dead.
>
> Also, before I got the replacement PSU, I tried some other PSUs, so
> maybe I fried some voltage controller or something.
Then the only thing to try is capacitor
Thanks for the response.
Oh yeah, I forgot to add that I did try it without the WiFi card
installed. Dead.
Also, before I got the replacement PSU, I tried some other PSUs, so
maybe I fried some voltage controller or something.
beels wrote:
> My Classic v3 recently started scrolling uncontrollably (push up or down
> arrow once, and display continues to scroll). Now it is DOA except for
> a faint glow of the Toslink jack. I tried a new power supply; no
> improvement.
>
> Are there some obvious troubleshooting steps
My Classic v3 recently started scrolling uncontrollably (push up or down
arrow once, and display continues to scroll). Now it is DOA except for
a faint glow of the Toslink jack. I tried a new power supply; no
improvement.
Are there some obvious troubleshooting steps I could try?
This is a nice thread to follow. I do a lot of electronics servicing
and restoration, from ancient tube classics to the later high end
pcb-based gear. Ive worked on a few Squeezeboxes over the years.
For beginners in electronics servicing, desoldering and removing smd
style caps is little
rbl wrote:
> Any thoughts anyone on which capacitors to replace (RCA and headphone
> outputs are affected equally), and is there any chance messing up the
> capacitors will affect the digital outputs (I assume not)?
AFAIK, these are the capacitors close RCA/Jack (to the DAC). I think
it's a
Many thanks to those who have posted about this level imbalance problem
and solution. Another SB3 saved from landfill.
Clive B's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=64046
View this thread:
rbl wrote:
> if I mess up removing these capacitors, or putting new ones in,
> presumably the digital outputs will continue to work? So then I can just
> get a DAC...
>
> Also I am not sure whether to go for C16/20 or C21/23? I want the RCA
> outputs to work, not the headphones. Regarding
rbl wrote:
> My soldering skills were pretty bad at the best of times, and my
> soldering iron is my Dad's from the 50s! Just wondering if I mess up
> removing these capacitors, or putting new ones in, presumably the
> digital outputs will continue to work? So then I can just get a DAC...
> Am
majones wrote:
> Well, I'm gobsmacked. I gave it a go per Ralphy's excellent guidance and
> photos, and despite my not having used a soldering iron for 40 years it
> all came together beautifully. A few tips. A bright guy on YouTube (Mr
> Carlson's Lab) said to twist the electrolytic capacitors
Well, I'm gobsmacked. I gave it a go per Ralphy's excellent guidance and
photos, and despite my not having used a soldering iron for 40 years it
all came together beautifully. A few tips. A bright guy on YouTube (Mr
Carlson's Lab) said to twist the electrolytic capacitors and snap them
off rather
ralphy wrote:
> Well, I finally replaced the C16 and C20 capacitors in my original
> slimdevices sb3, back when you could by them without the wireless card.
>
> If I had not already ordered the caps, I would have ordered 'these
> non-polarity ones'
>
Thank you so much everyone involved in this thread - The left channel on
my ageing SB3 went the other day and I was distraught :(
Then I found this thread and I just replaced the two capacitors as
described which cost me 59p :)
The left channel is now working perfectly again :) Brilliant!!!
tcutting wrote:
> Common issue is problem with WiFi card. You can try removing the WiFi
> card to see if the SB3 boots up (requires opening the unit, however).
>
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Thanks. The PSU came in and the problem is solved. Bought two more
spares for eight bucks
Fahzz wrote:
> Is this the first diagnostic step for an SB3 that won't power up? I
> ordered a new PSU, but are there other things I can try while it is on
> its way?
Common issue is problem with WiFi card. You can try removing the WiFi
card to see if the SB3 boots up (requires opening the unit,
Just wanted to thank ralphy for posting specifics with part numbers and
pictures. I was able to make the same repair and the analog outputs on
my Squeezebox classic are working wonderfully again.
effypoe's Profile:
Fizbin wrote:
> I'm assuming you guys (who have this issue) have tried a new PSU?
Is this the first diagnostic step for an SB3 that won't power up? I
ordered a new PSU, but are there other things I can try while it is on
its way?
Living Room: Squeezebox v3 (Wired), Pioneer Elite VSX 80, KEF
Another thanks from me, especially to ralphy for providing the helpful
photos.
I have a balanced Squeezebox once again!
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I had the same problem posted by several people here and I decided to
follow the findings and replace C16 and C20.
I have used polarized capacitors 100uF / 25V since I had them at home,
the value of these capacitors is not critical, someone has simply
bypassed them and
I'm assuming you guys (who have this issue) have tried a new PSU?
Fizbin's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=58734
View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=103213
Just registered to say thanks. My SB3 which has had one channel down for
years is now fixed thanks to the info above.
beepbeep's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=65938
View this thread:
ralphy wrote:
> When/if I make the repair I will take some pics and notes.
Well, I finally replaced the C16 and C20 capacitors in my original
slimdevices sb3, back when you could by them without the wireless card.
I used aluminum electrolytic 10uF 16V caps, purchased from digikey.
P/N
mgraves wrote:
I now have five SB3s, one of which was a recent purchase (used) from
Ebay. This new (well, to me...) unit powered up fine but appears to have
the same issue was one of my older units. The analog output of one
channel is extremely low. I suspect that this is a simple matter of
usbethjim wrote:
My SlimDevices SB3 has never had anything attached to it except RCA
cable on the analog outs. Yet it has the left channel failure.
So I think your IR emitter theory is not a reality
Any chance you might detail your repair (photos/words/diagrams) for the
rest of us?
I've often wondered if using the mono IR emitter in the headphone jack
on the SB3 could be the cause of the left channel failure.
Having used IR blaster on one of my SB3s for several years. A few
months ago I tried the analog outs only to discover it had developed the
left channel volume drop
ralphy wrote:
I've often wondered if using the mono IR emitter in the headphone jack
on the SB3 could be the cause of the left channel failure.
Having used IR blaster on one of my SB3s for several years. A few
months ago I tried the analog outs only to discover it had developed the
left
I have 2 working still and never had an issue with the analog output
channels. Now I will say its been years since I used the analog outputs
as I use Toslink now days for my connection, the SB3's I replace with
Touches use analog now days.
Slim Device Transporter wirelessly connected
2nd
Oddly enough, I had one Touch. It was the very first SB to die on me. Of
the SB3's (Classics if you prefer) I have one that has the original
silver front Slim Devices branding, and four Logitech models.
The fault is the same on two of them. Loss of level or complete loss of
one analog output.
Yeah the failing capacitor in one channel .
Wifi card that breaks can make the player to reboot .
Failing psu ,can also make it reboot , failing PSU connector .
VFD displays that gets washed out .
The ir led in the remote can get loose .
You also have an odd bunch of software faults that a
You are not alone! I also have a Slim Devices SB3 that has a diminished
analog channel. I went with a little optical to analog converter to
hang on to the unit. Haven't gone back to the repair idea...
Here are a few links:
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