As a K1 owner and QRP person I would want the ability to have a cheaper 10W
peak solution - if you can't hold a QSO with a clean 5W of digital software
then it's time to take the dog for a walk.
Simon Brown
---
RSGB HF Convention October 2006: http://www.rsgb-hfc.org.uk/
- Original
Hello Elecrafters,
The KDSP2 is a great option. I've been reluctant to embrace DSP from my
experience with DSP from other radiods but the KDSP2 has been great. I'm
glad it's apart of my K2 kit - very good filtering. The default settings
seem to be great but are there other settings that
Since it's been out a while I would like to hear how the KX1 with 80 is
performing with everyone on 80.
Also, has anyone used the T1 antenna tuner rather than build the internal
tuner. I was thinking of doing that because I have a small 20 watt linear that
I may want to use at times with the
Hi
Not more talk about a K3! I hold a different view.
My view is that with the K2 etc Elecraft have convinced us and given us
the confidence that we can ourselves build things that work. So why
not roll your own K3?
Starting with your own K2, why not warm up the PC and do a bit of
VK3HE commented:
I have compared it to several other radios. One radio in particular the
TS830S has one of the most amazing all round noise blankers. All the
noise the Elecraft noise blanker struggles on the TS830S noise blanker
will handle on the low threshold setting. The same results can
Hey guys, did you see? Three new mini modules are on the order page and
their manuals are available for download.
- Power meter
- AF filter
- Stepped attenuator
I looked them over and gotta say, I was very disappointed. I had really
envisioned a meter in a case that would match my K2.
Hi everyone.
I am attempting to use the KAT100 for the first time and a new
homebrew G5RV.
Just finished the cabling and went successfully thru calibration
steps. Then, I put the covers on the KAT100. When I turned on the
K2, a click and no other response on K2, no LCD. No LEDs on
In my humble opinion, we don't need a K3. I'm perfectly content with the K2
as it is. It does evrything I need from a rig, and does it well. I would
probably never use the stuff people want to add. (By the way, besides being
a QRPer and CW man, I'm an advanced DXer.)
I am in awe of the
On 9/27/06, Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I looked them over and gotta say, I was very disappointed. I had really
envisioned a meter in a case that would match my K2. Something with a
backlit LCD that would display power and SWR to with 2 digits each (11
Sounds like Larry N8LP's
I am interested in the power meter and stepped attenuator. However, since
it is no case, will there be risks of RF leakage?
How the design address RF leakage?
73
Johnny Siu VR2XMC
- Original Message -
From: Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent:
It is designed to filter out man-made noise like from cars,
electrical devices in your home, malfunction street lights, etc.
I would not count on them to remove anything else.
Ron, wb1hga
VR2BrettGraham wrote:
NBs do not work on some noises all cause the
receiver to wilt from IMDs.
They
John,
You apparently have a short in the KPA100, most likely on the 12CTRL line.
You can find this line on the schematic entering the KAT100 at J3 pin 8.
Follow the line to determine what other points it connects to and check them
all until you find the short. I do not know what the resistance
The LP-100 sounds great - but it is out of my price range. I may
eventually talk myself into it but not at this time.
And to be honest, I really prefer an analog meter as it is much easier
to peak my TS830s on TX with an analog meter.
Now, if I were a computer sort of guy, having a watt meter
My K2's ALC circuit on the control board oscillates at around 50 Hz
during receive. During receive, the V PWR voltage is set to zero, so
maybe there's some instability associated with driving U10a into its
non-linear region.
At any rate, it has no effect on receive operation since the BFO
To answer some of your questions:
- Our new mini-modules, like the others, are intended as low-cost,
easy-to-build station accessories for experimenters. Any of them can be
built into a case or used with the supplied rubber feet.
- The AT1 step attenuator provides attenuation of up to 41
Too early in the morning, I guess.
- We've had many requests for a traditional analog audio filter that
would work with any rig, especially those with simple receivers that
have little filtering of their own. The
[AF1]
is ideal for this.
Wayne
N6KR
---
http://www.elecraft.com
Hi,
Please post a sample of the output from the Wattmeter together with
supported COM port speeds etc. Those of us who pound the keyboards every
evening will no doubt be asked to add support which is not so easy when you
don't have one.
Simon Brown
---
RSGB HF Convention October 2006:
Folks,
Sorry, I had a typo in my response here - the short is in the KAT100, not
the KPA100.
Thanks Jack for catching this - it is still early in the day, even on the
East Coast G.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, September
As another contester, I can add the following
1. Better tx alc control. It's adequate for qrp or 100W usage, but too rough if
you have a low-drive linear (like with an 8877 tube)
2. TX power should not be zero after a band change (this is a pain for SO2R)
3. separate transmit mute line
4. easier
VR2BrettGraham wrote:
Strange, I also find other radios' NBs to work fine
on a wide range of noises will do so without
adding much of anything untoward.
All noise blankers that I've used cause some degradation of the
receiver's dynamic range performance. This means that in a strong
No matter what one designs, no matter how it functions there are ALWAYS
individuals who will want something different.
My company builds a very sophisticated computerized measurement device that
does some pretty remarkable things. Our software engineer is constantly
revising and adding
There is an option for building an LP-100 cheaply. I ordered some extra
boards for the current production run for some guys who wanted to build
one from their junk box. Most of these have been spoken for, and I
haven't set a price yet. A programmed PIC would be included. These would
be sold
Also, for those who want to mount the WM1 in their own enclosure or
behind a panel, the PCB layout also accommodates mounting the BNC
connectors and battery on the -rear- of the PCB. This then provides
clearance for the bar graph LEDs to poke through an opening.
The LEDs can also be turned
Vic, K2VCO wrote:
All noise blankers that I've used cause some degradation of the receiver's
dynamic range performance. This means that in a strong signal environment
(like in a contest) you will hear spurious responses when it is on. This is
of course a matter of degree, and I know there
I gladly welcome the new mini modules, particularly the step attenuator. It
doesn't bother me in the slightest that they are not encased. I've noticed
others have put a few of the kits in an Altoids tin. I just toss them in a
drawer when I'm through with them. I have a whole collection. To me,
Is moving the BNCs and the battery box to the back of the board enough
to allow it (WM1 or Audio Filter) to mount cleanly in an enclosure or
will other components on the board prevent the LEDs or pots from poking
the right distance through the enclosure wall?
- Keith KD1E -
-Original
Go to digikey or mouser and get panel mount LED's or sockets, and just
extend the leads from the module to the LED's on the
panel. They also have LED assemblies that have multiple LED's, just mix and
match to get the number needed. As for me, I just use
8mm tape cases to mount my mini-modules in.
Kieth,
If the LED height over the other components is a concern, one could even
mount the LEDs on the back side of the board and the other components on the
front, although I suspect there is plenty of room - the transverters and
KAT100 front panel combine the LEDs with other (lo-profile)
Keith KD1E wrote:
Is moving the BNCs and the battery box to the back of the board enough to
allow it (WM1 or Audio Filter) to mount cleanly in an enclosure or will
other components on the board prevent the LEDs or pots from poking the right
distance through the enclosure wall?
Alternately, the LEDs could be mounted higher off the board if your
enclosure demanded it. There are lots of possibilities if you choose your
enclosure before building and put the creative mind to work. I personally
see no need to have an enclosure at all on some equipment, but each to his
own -
Luckily, it wasn't consonance alliteration. That assonance washes off a lot
easier.
-Original Message-
Kevin Rock
snip
Since that is what I do for pay I read the ads as assiduously as the
articles. Good grief, I just alliterated; better go wash up ;)
Kevin. KD5ONS
/snip
I just buttoned up my KX-1's KXB-3080 mod last night and all is
working FB! Congrats to the gang at Elecraft for the FB piece of
engineering that went into that. Wew!
However, I have noticed that on 40 meters (metres for you Britts),
after allowing the KXAT to do it's tuning thing, I get a
Gee guys,
I need a dictionary heah ...(smile)
Ron wb1hga
da leeves ah fahlin in MA
Dan Barker wrote:
Luckily, it wasn't consonance alliteration. That assonance washes off a lot
easier.
-Original Message-
Kevin Rock
snip
Since that is what I do for pay I read the ads as assiduously
The Idiom Press SCAF-1 audio filter is a lowpass filter with a variable
cutoff frequency. The cutoff frequency is adjusted via a (decently-sized)
knob. It does a great job of filtering audio and also killing white noise
in the headphones. There is no ringing and no digital delay. It
Hello all;
I push on a CW filter and it does the same thing!
I also press attenuate with same results!
Unh? Noise blanker and/or filter does same thing?
Why?
Because filters and NB may appear to remove atmospheric noise, but
it's still there, because it's attenuated. (There's a little more to
Keith,
as someone earlier suggested to build your own enclosure. I believe
Elecraft sells them at a minimal cost and it's fun. This way you can pick
the size you want. Also it will save you over a hundred dollars and more
investing in another product.
73
john n4dsp
On Wed, 27 Sep 2006
Hi Folks
Conditions were generally terrible but thought I'd forward this note sent to
Andy, HB9CVQ whose determination in the face of my very weak signal was
fantastic. Skill can definitely overcome lack of sunspots!
Our Tanzania safari was exceptional and the Elecraft KX1 was the perfect
Fellow K2 builders,
I have completed building the KAT2 autotuner, and have run into a
problem on the power calibration step (calp).
The problem is that (on page 17) when I hit the tune button and run 5.0
watts into the KAT2, I'm only measuring about half that much at the
dummy load. The
Zak,
Have you adjusted the forward power trimmer pot on the KAT2 to match the
power that you measure on the DL1? If not, that is what you must do.
Once you set the fwd pwr pot correctly, the K2 microprocessor should display
the power output properly with a TUNE+DISPLAY operation.
If that does
September saw Bob N4BP take his second RFTB in a row. John K4BAI came in
second and Fred/Hank K3DCB came in third. Thanks to all who
participated! We only had 32 Autolog submissions this month - the
fewest so far this year. Maybe now that Autumn is coming and 80 Meters
will be making its
Thanks to Don and others for responding so quickly.
As I thought, there was a short in the cable. I re-cut and re-
soldered one end of the RS232 connectors and now all is well.
Those little buggers are a pain (for me, anyhow). The instructions
are to strip 5mm of each wire...I found 3mm
Thanks to Elecraft for the new mini modules. I will add them to the growing
arsenal of Elecraft test equipment.
I will try not to confuse the Elecraft WM1 with the Autek Research WM-1 that
I also have.
73,
John W2XS.
___
Elecraft mailing list
After a few delays my K2 is functioning. Just had QSO with FG/DL5CF; came
back on first call with K2 running about 8 watts. Still have a little fine
tuning to do and a few options to build and install, but works great!
Bernie Gardner
W1AZ
___
Hi Group,
XV144 runs extremely hot during FM or other full duty cycle operation. The
PCB of XV144 is very similar to that of XV432 so that there is space for a
small computer fan. I bought an US$3.00 computer fan and installed it in
the XV144 with due reference to the manual of XV432 fan
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