Sorry I was not specific. I thought that all Heil mics with X element would
be the same. I am considering the Classic, which comes with a pro element
and your choice of the HC-4, HC-5 and the IC element for ICOM. I am not too
interested in the HC-4, as I understand that is for contesting,
Ian,
You are correct about the NE/SA602/612 mixer - it generally performs well,
but is not the ultimate. Its biggest drawback IMHO is that the performance
suffers in the presence of strong signals such as European SW broadcast
stations. I have not encountered problem here in North Carolina, but
Just curious of why the focus on the ICOM mikes? When I looked at the
drawing for the pins on the front panel, it looked like the Kenwood was
the least complicated to wire.
A bit off topic, the Heil website does not show the hand mikes anymore.
Well not a 'real' hand mike that sits and your
Astron makes the RS-3A (linear, 2.5A continuous) that goes for $40 at
hamradio.com. I haven't tried it so can't offer more info than but maybe
someone else on the list knows more.
73,
Mike ab3ap
Dave Mueller wrote:
Radio Shack used to sell a small 1A linear supply in a metal chassis.
Wall
Dave,
The stock K2 works best with a high output mic. The previously available
Elecraft MH2 and MD2 were high output electret mics (the ProSet-K2 was
also). Unfortunately, the MH2 and MD2 are not currently available. The
folks at Elecraft are trying to find suitable replacements, but so far no
Hi Christ
I built the preamp in a Radio Shack Ultracompact enclosure and
incorporated it in a set of pigtails to use with my Proset and K2.
The preamp is the same as the one built into my Icom HM7 dynamic hand mike.
Both work exceptionally well with the K2.
73Tedaa5ck
[EMAIL
K2 S/N 5953 came to life at 1402 UTC 15 Feb 2007 with 40 meter 8 watt SSB
contacts with New Hartford, NY, Centerville, IN, and Fort Wayne, IN.
Received good signal reports from all around and even better comments once
all found out I was QRP and using an Elecraft K2. This kit was a smooth
build
I certainly agree with the posts concerning Don's assistance and help with the
many problems encountered by the kit builders.
Bravo Don, you Friendly, Patient, Radioman.
73, Bob VE3XM
K2/100 S/N 04031
K2 S/N 04575
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I have a K2, s/n 5494 with a KSB2, KIO2 and a KNB2
with KPA100 amp/KAT100 tuner in the EC2 case.
Professionally built and works perfectly. Also
included is a Yaesu MH-31 hand mic and the Elecraft
MD2 mic(no longer available) w/PTT foot switch. Comes
with all manuals, cables and the extra cover for
Hear!! Hear!!
If it weren't for Don (and several others!) I wouldn't even tried for the
K2.
Good on ya (all).
Tom, KJ3D
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert C. Abell
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:33 AM
To:
On Thursday 15 February 2007 09:17, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Check out Wes Hayward's comments at the beginning of The Western
Mountaineer article on page 12.7 of Experimental Methods in RF Design.
Don,
I bought EMiRFD just a week ago. It's a great book.
I've yet to explore the CD that comes with
Hi Gang
I am slightly confused! When using ESD protective
measures you should use:
1) a wrist strap connected to
2) an anti-static mat.
3)You should build/work on the anti-static mat to be
certain that all components (and you)are at the same
electrical potential there by minimizing any ESD
my k2 was just delivered by the ups man!
--
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peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com
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Subscriber Info (Addr.
What's the serial #? I know they are getting up there.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of sergio t. ruiz
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] new k2..
my k2 was just delivered
Congrats Sergio,
What's the serial Number?
73,
Charles N3EJS
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of sergio t. ruiz
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] new k2..
my k2 was just delivered by
OK,
I was so excited that I put in K3. The resistance checks all come out ok
(except that I get 357 ohm for K4 instead of the 600 to 800 ohm range,
which should be right with K3 installed). Is it ok to proceed with
connecting it for the first tests with my K2? Or should I remove K3 and get
On 2/15/07, RC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Gang
I am slightly confused! When using ESD protective
measures you should use:
1) a wrist strap connected to
2) an anti-static mat.
3)You should build/work on the anti-static mat to be
certain that all components (and you)are at the same
electrical
On Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:17:57 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
The stock K2 works best with a high output mic.
Yes. But that's really a nice way of saying that the audio
circuitry of the K2 lacks sufficient gain to work well with a real
mic. There are several mods to improve this situation, and all
When you walk across carpet in the winter, and touch a door handle and
generate a spark, you are producing in excess of 3000 volts. It takes
significantly less than that to damage many silicon circuit elements.
The damage can be done without and indication of the event.
A ground strap with a
Congratulations: I'm hoping to have #5956 up and on the air (listening
only until the 23 ) on Saturday or Sunday. I'm close to finishing up the
second stage of construction on the RF Board; wound the toroids last
night but didn't install them yet.
Matthew D. Pitts
N8OHU
K2 #5956
Charles
Jim,
Removal of K3 will make winding the transformer much easier BUT since it is
already installed:
If you have good desoldering equipment and can remove K3 without harming the
PC board, then remove it to make things easier, but I assume since you are
asking about it that you do not have good
Hi Jim, I made the same mistake by installing K3 to soon on a KPA100 for a
friend, and I had know trouble
making the windings on the output transform.
Kurt K0ARO
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RC asked:
Hi Gang
I am slightly confused! When using ESD protective
measures you should use:
1) a wrist strap connected to
2) an anti-static mat.
3)You should build/work on the anti-static mat to be
certain that all components (and you)are at the same electrical
potential there by
One quick note on the Heil Handi Mic. You can order it with any of
the standard Heil elements. It doesn't have a permanently attached
cord. You can order a variety of cords for different radios. So I
ordered the Icom element with the Kenwood cord. Adding the resistor
to the Kenwood style
At most hamfests, I see wall warts for sale cheap (a buck or two). The
heavier ones (and older ones) are more likely to be linear. I put Power Pole
connectors on all my ham gear, and most of my computer peripherals), then
run it off of 12V batteries that are float-charged by small power
HI Tom, Don...
As you know I inflicted critical damage to K2 #06008. I will not relive
this event for you. This was my second attempt at putting together
the K2 since December.. (By the way I think the K2 is a very fine radio,
and I truely envy those who have one). At this point if I were to
Elecraftlist de PA2DW,
For sale: K2 topcover with built in KAT2 tuner. Works fine, but I am using
the K2 as my base-station with a DEM 144-28 ECK transvertor to 2m in a
second topcover. When playing outside, I tend to use my KX1 ;)
$ 200 plus shipment is the price, or make me an offer!
Please
Ian wrote:
The K1 is not a K2 lite...
Very true words indeed! A K2 doesn't meet many of my requirements for
performance and versatility in a lightweight, compact, low power consumption
rig. The K2 doesn't tempt me.
I ordered a K1 because of its impressive features soon after I saw the
Steve, (N4EUK)
Much thanks for the info on the K1. I will probably purchase the K1 kit.
I might even get some mini modules for Alignment etc.. I like the idea
of operating rigs without commercial power and the K1 looks very
portable. Have to wait awhile and save up the money. Can hardly wait!!
KX1 1727 has arrived along with the 30m mod and KXAT1.
I also wish to thank everyone who responded on my ESD
question. I have been doing it wrong. so this time I
hope to get it right. Me to the strap. Strap to the
pad. Pad to the Power strip third wire. Plugged into
the wall.
RC
Sounds awesome. Let us know how it turns out.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
RC wrote:
KX1 1727 has arrived along with the 30m mod and KXAT1.
I also wish to thank everyone who responded on my ESD question. I have
been doing it wrong. so this time I hope to get it right. Me to the
strap.
Hi Elecrafters,
I have just taken a longer look at the K1 manual.
I really like what I see here. Much of it looks very
similiar to the K2, but with fewer parts. The pictures
in the K1 manual are very clear. I am seriously
considering the K1 for the near future, but first I
need to purchase your
Hi Don,
I appreciate your offer Don, however, the entire point
of obtaining a kit was to build it myself. I acknowledge
my lack of skills and attention to detail now, and I realize
I have a lot of learning ahead. Your mini modules may provide useful
experience for me to build on. Again, thanks
Thank you for the advice so far. Unfortunately, the problem is deeper
than just filter adjustment. I tried tweaking the filters back and
forth quite a bit on 30M without getting any stir out of the external
wattmeter.
I am now on page 6 of the K1 manual. Under Transmitter Signal
I setup for test #1, turned on power...NOTHING.
Luckily I am using a pwr supply that shuts down real fast on overload.
I louped all the boards with a 10X loupe so I just went thru the parts
placement. I had placed the F1 resettable fuse into the 10 aux pwr slot
right above it!... moved it to
Hey Folks, got the KPA100 done tonight, full power on all bands, woohoo!
One question, is the fan supposed to blow IN or OUT of the chassis?
I saw the same question in the archives but no answer...
Thanks!
-J
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Jeff,
The fan moves air into the PA and it exhausts between the heat sink fins
behind the KPA100 front cover at the top.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
Hey Folks, got the KPA100 done tonight, full power on all bands, woohoo!
One question, is the fan supposed to blow IN or OUT of
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