I am going to re-send this and see if it hits the KX3 group. I didn't put the
rig model in the original post yesterday morning so I think it missed the
crowd I intended it to go to.
I am out of town this weekend and brought my 28' random wire/counterpoise. I
have the random wire and counterpoise
Chris,
I built Don's fixed audio output on perfboard--very easy to do and works
well. I coupled it with a Tigertronics SignaLink for a clen, compact
solution.
73,
Chuck
NN7U
--
View this message in context:
Steve
Been there done that! The counterpoise will radiate and that RF will
mostly be absorbed into the building or ground. So potentially you
could lose half the radiated signal. EZNEC models of that type of
antenna usually give RF going mostly straight up in the air... Perhaps
OK on 80 or 40 to
I have for sale a KX3 Transceiver, Serial # 7XX.
Includes:
KXFL3 Dual-Passband Roofing Filter
KXUSB USB Interface Cable
MH3 Hand Microphone for the KX3
Tenergy NIMH AA cell. 2500 MAH 10 ea
E850524 KX3 Pwr Cable 18AWG Rt Angle
Lowepro Camera Bag for KX3
Chill Pill Mobile Speakers (NEAT) Stereo
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 10:14 PM
To: Roy Morris
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 With W2IHY Equalizer
Roy,
The Elecraft MD2
Don's fixed level audio output is what the doctor ordered for digital
receive. Couple that with a small SPDT reed relay to switch audio
input between the mic and a separate AFSK/PSK/JT65A/etc audio input and
drive the relay with a Digital PTT input and you have the complete no
cable swapping
Dave,
Have you had the rig inside with the antennas outside before? If so, how do
you route your feedline?
Slightly off topic but I am running a Buddistick antenna today up in Toledo,
OH and getting out FB on 17. I've worked NY and KS (the KS qso was a KX3 to
KX3!). I have 15' of RG-174 for my
Read the manual for the W2IHY equalizer and follow the procedure to set it
for microphone bias voltage. For the older model, on the bottom of the
unit there is a little round hole labeled MIC IN PWR JUMPER. Move the dip
style jumper with a pair of tweezers or fine tipped needle nose.
73, Guy.
Coax through the window, or ribbon cable through the window.
73 Dave
Have you had the rig inside with the antennas outside before? If so, how do
you route your feedline?
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Home:
I would like confirmation on how the K1 is configured for 2-bands, 4-bands, and
6-bands. I heard that for some of the configurations you must swap out boards.
Now, I think that this occurs when your order the two band version originally
and then get the 2-band option. I heard that these two
Hello,
When buying the K1, you choose either a 2-band or 4-band filter board. There
can be only one filter board in the radio at one time. For six bands, you would
have either a 4-band board plus a 2-band board and switch between the two, or
possibly three 2-band boards (I don't think anybody
Gil, and also Ray (previous message),
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I will now definitely get the 4-band version
(yes, and the backlit feature).
phil
On Jul 21, 2012, at 11:11 AM, Gil G. wrote:
Hello,
When buying the K1, you choose either a 2-band or 4-band filter board. There
can be
Dummy that I am, I left my counterpoise wires at home with my 817. I'll
learn ;-)
Bill
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 20, 2012, at 3:49 PM, Bill K9YEQ k9...@live.com wrote:
Be sure to use a counter poise! The walkabout is a poor performer without
one.
73,
Bill
K9YEQ
K2 FT 35, KX1 FT
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Great. With mine, I did all the wrong things. Two-band filter board, and no
backlit. I wanted to save a few bucks. Now I am thinking of getting the 4-band
board, but no backlit still, too much of a pain to install after the fact.. The
automatic tuner is a great option, but you can always
Although the latest information on the Elecraft Web Site remains a KAT500
shipping date of August 15 (2012?) there is yet no photo of the KAT500 on
the site- similar to the way other products are advertised by Elecraft- and
no KAT500 manual for us to preview--their usual pre-production practice.
Unfortunately, this is not an option. On the 4 band board, each of two
adjacent band pairs shars the output low pass filter. The bands must be
close together for this to work, i.e. 40/30 20/15 or 20/17. If one wants
80M, it must be built on a 2 band board.
On my last K1, I had 40/30/20/15, and
There are pictures of the KAT500 on the website. Go to the home page, and
click on News. You will see pictures from the Visalia hamfest.
73,
Bruce, N1RX
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The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (7/22/12) at 1800Z on 14.3035
MHz +/- QRM. I will be the net control from western Oregon. See you there.
73,
Phil, NS7P
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The KX3 has been sold, TNX for all that responed.
Kurt K0ARO
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Inspired by the KX3 yahoo group discussion yesterday on the source of the
speaker buzz in the KX3, I decided to try it out. Here are my results with
detailed pictures:
http://www.worldwidedx.com/elecraft-kx3/142103-elecraft-kx3-speaker-buzz-fix.html
Tim
AE6LX
--
When I travel to other US army bases I bring my K1 along because
fantastic antennas are often available. I still bring a wire antenna,
though, if I'm on my own. I went with the 4-band K1, backlight, stand,
and also picked up Paddlettes and a Soviet leg-strap straight key.
If you'll be
When I purchased my KPA500 at the end of last year, I didn't have a 240V
outlet in the ham shack, so I as forced to run off of a 120 volt line. In
addition the ham shack is about 75 feet away from the breaker box, so there
was some pretty hefty IR drop on the 12AWG cable.
When I was running 118
Bruce: I know and there is stuff on YouTube, but that is quite different from
a photo on Elecraft promoting the product. I cancelled KX3 because by the time
I got it the technology would be vintage; I have high hopes the KAT500 will
surface this year. Ron
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 12:11:10
There's a way that does not involve any filing or grinding.
I've found that the critical gap is the one at the bottom just below the
speaker where vibration by the speaker can make the edge of the metal move
back and forward, banging against the bottom cover.
That is easily cured by separating
Sad you feel this way. I have been enjoying my KX3 for about a month now.
Yes, I waited almost 6 months from the date of my pre-order. I did the same
for my K3. Neither was vintage when received. Hardly. In fact even with
the early-adopter pre-order wait, there was still nothing on the market that
What about turning a four-band board into a three-band board with 80m?
Gil.
--
New site: http://radiopreppers.com
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
On Jul 21, 2012, at 2:55 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:
Unfortunately, this is not an option. On the 4 band board, each of two
adjacent band pairs
Wow very nice case Mike.
I'm going to have to get one of those too.
So it seems like most people do the 15 meter rather than 17 meter build.
I'm new to CW but on SSB I find 17 really a great band with very nice
people. Is there a reason you seasoned CW guys use 15?
Stan AE7UT
--
View this
What about turning a four-band board into a three-band board with 80m?
Gil.
This is technically possible; by having 80M occupy the lowest band spot and
having nothing in band 2. Bands 3 and 4 would still need to meet the
criteria I mentioned earlier. Also, I do not know if you could use the
My K1 has been a great rig. I originally got it with the 4 band board
option setup for 40/30/20/15 meters. I later bought a 2 band board kit and
set it up for 80 and 17 meters. Some time later I got a second 2 band board
and purchased extra parts (all from Elecraft EXCEPT one crystal!) and
I have the KAT1 tuner in my K1. If I wass going to do it allover again buy
the T1 external tuner instead of the built in KAT1 tuner. IT covers a
greater impedance range and makes band changing from 2 to 4 band boards
MUCH easier. I would strongly recommend the K1-T1 instead of the K1-KAT1
Steve,
The choices are not either/or vis-à-vis the coax. You can have the rig
inside, feed coax through the window and attach to the antenna and
counterpoise in the clear and tune it with your internal tuner. There will
be some loss due to the mismatched coax, but for a 5 or 10 foot cable it
will
Hello,
I don't seem to be able to find the Pelican 1000 model, only the 1200…
Anyone else has found the best Pelican case for a K1, currently in production?
Thanks.
Gil.
--
New site: http://radiopreppers.com
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
On Jul 21, 2012, at 3:19 PM, Mike Markowski
I like the Elecraft products and also have several of their radios/meters/amp
etc. However, I still find the marketing unsatisfactory and the hype over their
products unjustified; the reflector serves to keep the prices inflated and
promotes the products using the customers as unpaid salesmen.
*Bruce,
I think we all should remember that in order to release a new product,
Elecraft will first ship out the Field Test Units where they use these to
thoroughly test out the design and functionality ok the equipment unlike
shall we say 'other' manufacturers and reduce the risk of shipping
Another method: Painter's tape (the blue stuff) - a strip along the two
horizontal seams to the left and right of the speaker (as it faces you)
cured the buzz here - and also one strip on the bottom edge under the
speaker.
I applied it over the edges, folded it down on the inside and outside
I just received KX3 serial 847 yesterday and I have it connected to my
SteppIR 3 element and am blown away by the receiver. It is super quiet and
nice and the roofing filter works extremely well. Made my first QSO with a
local ham for the VHF contest. I am so amazed. I did hear some issues
All good points, Gary. Also facts of which I am well aware, given my lengthy
acquaintance with Elecraft (the Ethos). Perhaps Ron may find these fact
interesting, though I suspect not.
73 es enjoy that good life- retired and RV mobile...
Bruce, N1RX (jealous)
_
From: Gary Gregory
Apologies, Gil, mine is the Pelican -1400- which is still in production.
A quick look at Amazon makes me realize I was lucky to get it for free
(manufacturer promotion some years back). Much pricier than I expected!
73,
Mike ab3ap
On 07/21/2012 05:36 PM, Gil G. wrote:
Hello,
I don't seem
*Ron,
The advertising by Elecraft is refreshing for most. Inclusion of customers
in the discussion of interoperability of their products allows the customer
views to be talked about at Elecraft.
Your view expressed here may indeed result in further discussion at
management level. You may not be
I ran a 240V line for the same reason - excessive drop when operating the amp
(not the KPA500) from a 120V line. As an experiment, I went around the house
measuring the voltage drop at various distances from the breaker panel by
plugging in a 1000-watt hair dryer. I knew what the results would
I just finished installing the KAT2 and in testing discovered that power
output begins dropping on 15 mtrs. I removed the KAT2 and tested the plain
K2 into a dummy load, with the same results. I redid the transmitter
alignment but it didn't change the results, which are, with a 10 watt
setting:
That is certainly a goal, Gary, but Wayne and Eric are adamant about my
incorporating any customer feedback that makes sense no matter how many
changes it requires. Little of that feed back is direct about the manual
although I appreciate hearing about any overlooked typos, etc. Most often
the
Bob, did you make any temperature measurements? I bet the amp ran cooler
too.
73, Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 12:31 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject:
Chuck,
Did you ever increase the value of R98 on the bottom of the RF board to
keep the power from oscillating? If so, you have now removed the
additional gain of the KPA100 and may need to restore the original value
of R98. Remove the bottom cover and check the value of R98 - if it is
I'm fortunate to have electronics surplus and swap meets in my area. Lots of
gold plated audio connectors have been dumped on the market lately (Ebay
too) under the Extron Electronics name and I recently picked up some 3.5mm
stereo phone plugs (#100-331-xx). They seem to fit pretty well. I have
Golly, what a subversive concept: Product promotion via word-of-mouth from
satisfied customers!
Mark AI4BJ
... the reflector serves to keep the prices inflated and promotes the
products using the customers as unpaid salesmen.
__
Why would the efficiency be significantly different? The finals dissipated
an identical amount of power in either case.
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Townsend
Sent: Saturday, July 21,
Interesting, I am working on a KPA100 problem right now. The original
problem was reduced output on 15m, but when I disassembled the KPA100, I
found a burned trace on the circuit board in the bias current circuit
feeding Q4.. which seems unlikely to have caused a problem only on 15m. I
plan to
Not having the schematics in front of me and not being familiar with the
unit...PCB traces don't usually burn on their own. Did Q4 check as good? Might
be worth some desoldering to put an ohmmeter on it.
73 de N5ILN
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2012, at 7:40 PM, aj4tf aj...@arrl.net wrote:
I have been running all CW so far with my KX3 and have noticed there is a
delay a lot of times on dits. When calling CQ there is a hesitation when
sending my call between the dits in the V (KC8QVO) that makes it sound like
KC8QE UO or KC8QI AO. The first few times it happened I thought I just
Sandy,
Actually, I was not going to get the tuner because I already have the T1 that I
use with my KX1 and my Norcal 40A.
phil
On Jul 21, 2012, at 2:14 PM, Sandy wrote:
I have the KAT1 tuner in my K1. If I wass going to do it allover again buy
the T1 external tuner instead of the built
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