On 5/2/2014 5:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
IMHO, the heatsink is an improvement to the KX3 for those who do
continuous duty data modes and want to operate at power levels in
excess of 5 watts.
Yes, and equipment cooling is always a good thing. However -- note that
the KXPA100 provides power
The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my
first email to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.
I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that there is a lot
of wisdom out there to be garnered from the collective experience of the
Thanks for all the replies. There were so many, that I will not be able
to respond to them all. FYI, many of the replies recommended me getting
a pair of glasses that just had my bifocal scrip for using with the
computer. That is probably the easiest choice for me.
Thank you for allowing me
You read the manual John so you are way ahead. Just take your time and go step
by step. It might help to have some small tools handy to help with the
fasteners. You will be fine and I can't begin to describe what a great feeling
of accomplishment it is to push that power button at the end and
John,
Yes, that is easy. Follow the instructions in the manual in the order
written.
If you are not adept at determining screw sizes and lengths by eye,
measure them.
That is all there is to it.
Build the base K3 first, then the KAT3, then the KPA3, followed by the
KRX3 and the KXV144 if
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 5/3/2014 3:07 AM, John, 9H5G wrote:
The kit is in the mail so I thought it would be a good time to fire off my first email
to the group and exit from lurk mode with a question.
I've read the K3 kit manual a few times now but I'm certain that
Jim,
There are activities other than contesting, such
as PSK31, which involve high duty cycles.
Many of us operate portable using external
batteries. Heating may be academic with the
internal batteries anyway, since the voltage
limits the power available.
Phil w7ox
On 5/3/14, 12:26 AM,
While the Cooler KX may not be necessary for each KX3, it is never the less
available to every KX3 operator for whom this amazing radio has become their
base or even only rig.
Increasing among us do not have access to amplifiers, do not have access to
resonant antennas, do not even have a
Hi John,
I believe you've made one of the better choices of your ham career.
I'm certain you won't look back.
Free advice:
1. Inventory all the parts in the kit, especially the screws,
washers, nuts. Be prepared to measure screw lengths with a shop rule.
2. If something seems like it doesn't
Congratulations, John!
If you have questions, just ask here; you should
get answers from those in the know soon enough.
Another resource I like is this searchable
database of past posts to this reflector:
http://marc.info/?l=elecraft There you can search
by title, author or even based on
Get a static protection mat and ground yourself - this will protect
sensitive parts.
Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.
Read each step twice, then proceed. Don't tighten anything until
instructed to do so.
Do each step in order - there is a reason for it.
The process took me
Go to home depot (or wherever) and get a new #0 and #1 screwdriver for
assembly. Last thing you want is a stripped out screw on your 2k dollar
rig because of $5 screwdriver was too big/small.
Frank
KG6EYC
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I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up and strips
the screws while you are screwing in the screw [I never realized how funny
Don, Matt,
It is possible that I've mislabeled things, though I was trying to follow
the diagram they have before the schematics that describes each part.
Really I've not got a lot of experience with electronics beyond a couple of
classes in college. It's not something they stressed in the
P.S. I really would like to thank you all for your help.
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The manual states Maximum power output, as well as the drive power to reach
a given power output, both vary per-band.
Has anyone charted this?
How can I see the KX3 PA temp while driving the KXPA100 ?
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A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type... He even bought some special screwdriver for
them... Something about the heads being slightly different from normal
Phillips head. Any one know if this is true?
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment,
They may be a cross-point head instead of Phillips. Or possibly a JIS B 1012.
Cross-point heads really need a matching screwdriver. As far as I know, you can
use a cross-point screwdriver for Phillips, but not vice-versa.
More detail here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Cross
Yes, it's true. JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different
from the American standard.
73, Tony K4QE
On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were some special type... He even bought some special screwdriver for
Oops...meant JIS...
On 5/3/2014 12:56, Anthony Scandurra wrote:
Yes, it's true. JPS (Japanese standard) is ever so slightly different
from the American standard.
73, Tony K4QE
On 5/3/2014 12:37, David Cole wrote:
A friend of mine mentioned that the screws used in Icom radios and such
were
On 5/3/2014 6:09 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
There are activities other than contesting, such as PSK31, which
involve high duty cycles.
Yes. But as I noted, if you're making 5 minute transmissions, the other
guy is probably bored to death. I would be.
73, Jim K9YC
It is the same regardless of mode.
Rick, WA6NHC
iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)
On May 3, 2014, at 10:40 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:
Yes. But as I noted, if you're making 5 minute transmissions, the other guy
is probably bored to death. I would be.
ORIGINAL MESSAGE: (may be snipped)
On 5/3/2014 9:01 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
I agree with the comment below but I also recommend you buy quality
screwdrivers -- the best you can find with hardened tips so that the blades
on the philips head driver do not get screwed up which screws up
Earlier today Bill (W2BLC) wrote .
Use an egg carton for separation of the hardware.
--- - - - ---
WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!
Proper ESD precautions dictate that plastic or foam shouldn't be anywhere
near your ESD safe work area. Technically, not anywhere near means at
least a foot away
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from
living in a cave!
Bill K-Line
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Meticulously assembled, tested, and calibrated K3/100 serial number 4921
that I only used about 20 hours. Includes the matched ProSet-K2 headset,
an IOGear USB to serial adaptor, and all the manuals. The price is $2100
plus shipping from Colorado Springs, CO.
Everything is in mint condition,
I just downloaded Fldigi this morning and of course have not finished
reading the Fldigi yet!
I have most the functions working (I'm primarily interested in CW) but for
the life of me I have not been able to muddle my way through getting the
K3's frequency readout to propagate into Fldigi. I have
If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver. The difference is that the nut
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic.
The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and
Can't remember ever seeing this on the list:
My AF Gain control has lost its stop. :-) It will go all the way around
in either direction. There is a barely perceptible hesitation where the
stop was, and the control still controls the AF gain, however the
loudness I like it at moves around
On Sat, May 3, 2014 at 11:58 AM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
Can't remember ever seeing this on the list:
My AF Gain control has lost its stop. :-) It will go all the way around in
either direction. There is a barely perceptible hesitation where the stop
was, and the control still
I had this happen when the AF knob cracked. Elecraft supplied a replacement
which cured the problem.
73, Ken, K6LA / VY2TT
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Help:
Tom,
Are you using Hamlib? or RigCAT? 0r XML-RPC?
If so, have you configured that element telling it that a K3 is
connected? Tell it which COM port to use (whichever one is connected to
the K3). I find Hamlib to be the easiest. If you use RigCAT, you may
have to find and download the .xml
Gentlemen,
Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!
As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have mentioned the options that I have
coming. It's a K3/100 with a KRX3 and a handful of filters. Simple but very
effective, I'm sure.
Keep them coming please- I have a week more to
Helping others is one of the main purposes of this list. If we could
get the UPS guy to move faster, I'm sure we would.
73
matt, W6NIA
On Sat, 3 May 2014 15:51:19 -0400, you wrote:
Gentlemen,
Thank you for a fantastic list of hints and tips so far!
As Gary, KI4GGX, pointed out I should have
I have a recent K3 (2 months old) that has the KX144XV Two meter module
and the KXV144 Ref Lock. Today I installed the KBPF3 and some filters.
After installation I attempted to calibrate the TX Gain and it kept failing
on 60 meters.
Through testing what I found is that if I connect the KSYN3
Hi Fred,
If it is an older K3 then it's probably the knob. Contact Elecraft support
and ask them to send you two new knobs. If the RF knob isn't already cracked
it will someday. This is a known problem with older units.
73,
Mike K2MK
k6dgw wrote
Can't remember ever seeing this on the list:
On 5/3/2014 12:13 PM, iain macdonnell - N6ML wrote:
Seems like a stupid question, but I have to ask are you sure it's
not just that the knob is loose?
Ummm ... well ... sort of. When I went to tighten it, it broke into two
pieces. RF Gain knob is starting to crack too. Sorry for the
On 05/03/2014 01:40 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
On 5/3/2014 6:09 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
There are activities other than contesting, such as PSK31, which
involve high duty cycles.
for example, JT9 is key down for 2 minutes. 2 watts WILL work but 5+
may be needed for the conditions... and yes,
On 5/3/2014 2:15 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from
living in a cave!
--
Maybe, but even a cave man can do it !
_ Anonymous ___
.
Good Afternoon,
After a very weather agile week it has gotten back to normal: cold,
cloudy, and wet. But two days of sun with highs in the mid to upper 70s
was nice. It also set a record for the state. Yesterday started off
warm but then the clouds came in from the first wave of this
John - One other small step for K3 assemblers that I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual KNB3 installation
procedure
My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3 shield step or even earlier - it was a dog for me
Sat May 3 19:24:08 EDT 2014
Hank K7HP writes ...
John - One other small step for K3 assemblers that I felt should be done
earlier is on page 58 of the K3 assembly manual KNB3 installation
procedure
My note to myself was the standoff for the noise blanker should be done
BEFORE the KPA3
I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in the shield for the two meter antenna cable
From: Gary W. Hvizdak gary.hviz...@cfl.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; kk4...@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014
John,
As for the advice about screwdrivers, yes, get yourself a quality, new
#1 phillips. I like the ones from Ace Hardware with the blue handles
(Pro Series), and I like the 8 inch length, just because I learned to
use that length many, many years ago - pick whatever length you are
There should be no need to cut any notch in the KPA3 shield for the 2
meter antenna cable if the K144XV instructions are followed.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/3/2014 8:20 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
I had to remove that standoff to get the shield out (and back in)
so I could cut a notch in
Old Heathkit trick. :)
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
You are 100% correct
That is why you should not install modules after a very long week
Thank you
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, May 3, 2014 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom
There should be
This humorous advert resulted in sale of Icom Pro III in under a few
hours. I have since pulled the Crag's list ad. It was posted to two of
my local mail lists for Oregon and Washington:
===CUT===
Hi all,
I have drank the Elecraft Kool-Aid and it was good!
My Icom Pro 3 is for sale:
The weekly Elecraft SSB net is tomorrow at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz. I will be net
control from western Oregon. See you there.
73,
Phil, NS7P
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Help:
I am very close to finishing with my back log of reports. Only a few
odds and ends left. With weather like this it is easy to get it done.
73,
Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class)
December 1st, 2013
On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 -
Good Evening,
During one of the very hot days this week I took time to hike down
to the lower parts of my property. While sitting on one of the fallen
trees I heard a bird approaching; a large bird. At first glance I
thought it was a small crow but then he looked at me and resolved into
I have seen a problem when using the K3 in SSB. While trying to work a
DX station on 10M, waiting for the next chance to call, something causes
the K3 to stop transmitting on SSB. The PTT still works as normal and
keys the K3 and the power amplifier. If I change to CW, it transmits as
usual. I
On 5/3/2014 6:55 PM, David Cole wrote:
I have drank the Elecraft Kool-Aid and it was good!
and you're still alive! Kool!
73,
Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org
My K3 just came in by ground UPS.
The serial port doesn't seem to be working.
I tried K3 Util on Linux and it said K3 not responding.
I got a terminal program and short receive and transmit
at the Elecraft end and it echoed ok.
That means that Linux, the serial port and the cable are ok.
I
No USB to RS232 converters were used.
This is not a USB problem.
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David,
There should be no attenuation if you keep both transceivers on a
same band.
By the way, there is a device used mostly by the contesters who
need to share an amplifier: http://www.acom-bg.com/xvcr.html
Using it with K3: http://www.kotarov.com/projects/k3-and-acom-2s1
73, Val LZ1VB
I'm going to test the cable in the morning.
I have two cables neither which works.
The one which came with the rig seems to be a cross over cable.
The one I tested is an APC connection cable which just happens
to have continuity on pin 2.
I get or make a real cable tomorrow and see if that works.
It was the cable sent to me.
I tested it wrong and thought it was a straight through cable.
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