Hi
I believe for some intermittent time the tuner did not move the caps to
the antenna side. It is working now though.
All these boxes we have are computer controlled. I
Thanks all
On Wed, Feb 23, 2022 at 4:27 PM Richard Donner
wrote:
> Hi
> Well I checked the antenna and it is just as
"Take a look at this reference - https://leleivre.com/rf_lcmatch.html if you
can't visualize what Cap Side is doing."
I should have added that the upper two topologies are the only ones that can be
set in the KAT500. The inductors are always in series and the capacitors are
always in
" Is the capacitor setting normally checked by default? This setting was
not chosen automatically."
Cap Side is set to SIDET (transceiver side) when the KAT500 is in Bypass mode.
At any other time is is set to the value corresponding to the current tuning
solution. That tuning solution
Hi
Well I checked the antenna and it is just as before the problem.
Is the capacitor setting normally checked by default?
This setting was not chosen automatically.
After I enabled the capacitor setting the tuner tuned immediately to a
low SWR on the low end of the band.
I noticed that
Let's start with the basic facts.
Rig --> amp --> KAT500 --> antenna/s (with the tuner blocking the amp
key in while tuning).
1) The KAT500 was working successfully 'for years' without issue.
2) There was a sudden change in operation.
This doesn't necessarily mean it was the tuner; it more
Jim, W0EB
-- Original Message --
From: "Mike Harris via Elecraft"
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/8/2021 8:02:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need help.
Hi Rick,
Have you tried reloading a saved working configuration? Does the red TX led
illuminate? If you press the TUNE
Hi Rick,
Have you tried reloading a saved working configuration? Does the red TX
led illuminate? If you press the TUNE button is there any output and
what does the SWR indicate.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
On 07/08/2021 23:16, Richard Isaacs via Elecraft wrote:
I recently purchased a K3 and
Were there thunderstorms in your area overnight?
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
On 8/7/21 7:16 PM, Richard Isaacs via Elecraft wrote:
I recently purchased a K3 and
Floyd,
The USB cable that the W2 uses has an FTDI chip in it. I agree with you,
it does sound like a driver issue. Since you've determined that your
Comm port driver is installed, It kinda sounds like you may not have an
FTDI driver installed in your computer.
I had the same problem with
I use the W2 on 2 Win 10 computers without issue.
Ghosted Com ports can't be seen unless you do the following:
1.) Click Start, point to All Programs, point to Accessories, and then
click *Command Prompt*.
2.) At a command prompt, type the following command , and then press ENTER:
*set
I have the same problem here with the W2.. I gave up!! Good luck!!
73s Bob W5RG
On Wednesday, March 6, 2019, 12:22:44 PM CST, Michael Walker
wrote:
Make sure you don't have multiple Com 9's. You may have some ghosted Com
ports.
Mike
va3mw
On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 12:07 PM Floyd
Does the W2 require any power?
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Mar 6, 2019, at 1:38 PM, Floyd Sense wrote:
>
> There's only one Com9. Device Manager shows no dupes of any ports. I've
> assigned a different port number, one that is an unused hardware port, with
> the very same
There's only one Com9. Device Manager shows no dupes of any ports.
I've assigned a different port number, one that is an unused hardware
port, with the very same results.
On 3/6/2019 1:20 PM, Michael Walker wrote:
Make sure you don't have multiple Com 9's. You may have some ghosted
Com
Make sure you don't have multiple Com 9's. You may have some ghosted Com
ports.
Mike
va3mw
On Wed, Mar 6, 2019 at 12:07 PM Floyd Sense wrote:
> Acquired a used W2 today and have the hardware hooked up and operating.
> The W2 works just fine. Now I'm attempting to establish communications
>
Jon,
You will have to do some troubleshooting. First, check the VFO and BFO
signal levels. The VFO should have a 200mVp-p signal (70mV RMS) at U6
pin 6, and the BFO should have a 200mVp-p (70 V RMS) at U5 pin 6. use an
oscilloscope with a 10X probe to measure the peak to peak RF voltage or
-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 6:44 PM
To: Terry Brown; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop
question
Terry,
Have you considered an 80 meter inverted L?
On Sun,1/1/2017 6:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
It takes up little real estate for the radiator, but does require
putting down a ground screen at the base of the inverted L.
To avoid confusion about how antennas work, it's best to call this a
counterpoise, and leave the word "ground" out of it.
Terry,
Have you considered an 80 meter inverted L?
It takes up little real estate for the radiator, but does require
putting down a ground screen at the base of the inverted L.
If you do not wish to bury 32 radials for a ground screen, consider
using resonant elevated radials. Two elevated
While you design and experiment with a new loop:
Install a reduced size dipole for 80. My rule of thumb, which has
worked for many quickie antennas is to use insulated #14 wire and
close-wind on a 2" white PVC pipe a length of wire that is twice the
length of that removed from the antenna.
Terry what is the size of your roof line perimeter?
Mel, K6KBE
From: Terry Brown
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need help from an EZNec user on a horizontal loop question
I am moving from my current QTH
Hi Jim,
I’ve got the KX3 (and a K3) and had run WSJT-X 1.6.0 for a long time. I
installed 1.7.0 rc1 and now use 1.7.0 rc3. There is no magical stuff required
to change from one band to another. What DOES work when you change to another
band? Are you certain that it is sending RF? The red TX
Jim,
JT is no different than any other soundcard data mode. You should be
following the data mode setup instructions in the KX3 manual rather than
the information on the internet which is generic for common transceivers
which control power output differently than the Elecraft gear.
Are you
Thanks, Jack!. This is very helpful.
I’d love to get a copy of your Mac utility. please email me offline so we can
coordinate how to transfer it to me.
73
Lew N6LEW
> On Jan 22, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:
>
> Hi Lew;
>
> See below…
>
>> On Jan 22, 2016,
Hi Lew;
See below…
> On Jan 22, 2016, at 3:08 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
>
> I know this topic has been on the list before, but all the discussion I have
> found raises questions but doesn’t give answers.
>
> I recently acquired a used RKC2, which I’m trying to set up with my K3
...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with my K2 did not turn on
To: Mauricio Fernandez mauriciof...@yahoo.com, Elecraft Reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, July 7, 2015, 9:26 PM
It would seem that you
have purchased a K2 that was not working as it
should
It would seem that you have purchased a K2 that was not working as it
should. If it was advertized as a fully working radio, you may have
recourse with the seller for either a refund or a repair. OTOH, if the
seller did not state that it was working properly, you may have to
investigate and
George,
The stand for the K1 is 5.25 wide, same as the K1, and 4 deep from the
front of the stand to the rear most part.
There are two sets of side brackets that can be installed depending on
preferred height and mounting angle. All side brackets are 3/4 wide.
One set, as mounted on the
You need to go to the FTDI website and see if they have a Unix driver that
will work for you. The problem with USB drivers is that they get into
things that are down in the hardware muck, and very much dependent on the
OS's particular handling of the hardware layer. Without a Unix driver,
you're
See http://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm for Linux drivers.
On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 4:12 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV k2av@gmail.com
wrote:
You need to go to the FTDI website and see if they have a Unix driver that
will work for you. The problem with USB drivers is that they get into
things
Hello Bill,
try this:
Linux handles serial devices different from windows.
Your usb-serial adaptor probably will be recogniced as /dev/ttyUSB0,
while your Windows-Software running under wine only can handle COMx.
So you need to tell wine what device it should use for serial
communications.
Okay here is the solution.
I downloaded this file NetFx20SP2_x64.exe from the MS site and it worked.
Thanks for the help. Dan
I have been using this without any trouble on WIN 8.1 Pro then,
I installed a new hard drive, and I can not re install the program.
When I go to install I have a pop
Install .net framework 2, which does not require you to uninstall anything.
Dick, K6KR
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 14, 2014, at 13:46, Dan Baker km...@km6cq.com wrote:
I have been using this without any trouble on WIN 8.1 Pro then,
I installed a new hard drive, and I can not re install the
Glenn,
Doing a toggle itself is not too difficult, just set the macro to do the
button press.
The impossible part is that one cannot read the state of mic bias in a
macro and decide whether to turn bias on or leave it alone since bias is
already set on.
The mic bias *can* be left on for
I have a pair of macros set up on PF1 button that toggle between data mode
(with mic bias/mic BTN off) and SSB mode (with mic bias/mic BTN enabled).
Very handy when I want to jump on the KX3 to join an SSB net, and then put it
back on the packet frequency when I'm finished. I also have some
Lou,
What happens when you put a dummy load on it and attempt to do a TUNE -
what SWR does it report?
If it is still 9.9 or something else above 1.5, then you have a problem
with the K1 tuner - any chance you wound T1 in the direction opposite to
that shown in the manual?
If the dummy load
Thanks to everybody who replied. This list is a great resource. It was
indeed: 1) Speed set to 75bps instead of 45bps; 2) Mark-Space tones set wrong.
I got it running, but not in time to catch TX5K on RTTY. I saved a CONFIG
file and I am ready for the next dxpedition.
73
Eric WD6DBM
On 2/24/2012 5:18 PM, Paul Clay wrote:
What's going to justify the purchase for me, nor not, is the ability to use
the K3 as SWL tool
You will need the KBPF option for general coverage. If SWBC is your goal,
you'd also need the 6 KHz filter I'd imagine. I have the KBPF but not the
filter,
On Fri, Feb 24, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Paul Clay mr_pookie...@yahoo.com wrote:
What's going to justify the purchase for me, nor not, is the ability to use
the K3 as SWL tool
==
Well ya know, Paul, this may sound a bit outré, but for about 60 bucks
you can build a Softrock Ensemble
On Fri, Feb 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Jack Colson jcols...@tampabay.rr.com wrote:
... it seems like the source of these may have dried up. On the KB9YIG.com
site it says check back later...
It always says to check back later. The kits become available every
couple of weeks. Recently
Hi Paul,
As a new Ham I can not compare the K3 to the older radios as you
requested. I have never owned any of them. I ordered the KBPF option
and installed it during my K3 build. I can say with certainty that I
have received Shortwave broadcasts from EVERYWHERE. Europe, Middle
East,
I don't do much shortwave listening, but I have had the opportunity to
directly compare receive performance between the K3 with general
coverage receiver option, the K2 and the venerable Kenwood TS-930s. I am
also solely into voice.
My general point is the difference between hearing and not
Two other points.
For six meters, I currently don't have a separate six meter antenna.
From what I have heard what little is going on with six meters would not
justify the additional expense. Plus you can add it to your K2 using a
transverter.
The two meter option will cost you $299 for the
I think you would be pretty happy with the sync AM. It works very
well, though under some conditions better reception can be obtained by
using USB or LSB.
The drawback for SWL listening is that the SWBC bands are not
segregated from the ham bands as far as the K3 BAND switching is
concerned: the
Paul: Another thing you may want to consider is to install and use the
13KHz FM filter for AM receive. It will provide twice the audio bandwidth.
73, Doug VE3MV
On Fri, 24 Feb 2012 09:18:25 -0800 (PST), Paul wrote:
Hi.
Been thinking about getting a K3. Have been an extremely pleased
Actually, using the 13 KHz (FM) filter for AM rx does improve the overall RX
bandwidth, but not by a factor of 2.
It allows up to the maximum of about 4.2 KHz that is the limit of the audio
stages.
73,
Bruce, N1RX
Paul: Another thing you may want to consider is to install and use the
Fred,
That is a 'trick' question - right? If not, read on - your loss in dB
does not change.
There will be no difference in your feedline loss - the KAT3 does not
change the loss on your feedline, it just makes the K3 happier.
Now if you were tuning that antenna at its feedpoint rather than
Thanks Don.
No, it's not a trick question, just tricky for me! And yes, the feedline is
ladderline. So the bottom line is that the 200 watts w/o a tuner is slightly
better than 100 watts w/tuner using the same feedline and antenna. Every
little bit helps. I live in an area where CCR antenna
SnipFred, How does KPA 500 feed ladder line without tuner? End snip
Hi Mike,
I run coax from inside to the eve of the roof where I attach a 4:1 balun.
From there it's 300 ohm ladder line. Works FB.
73, Fred, AE6IC
__
Elecraft mailing
The one easy thing to do Susan, is go to what should be the 10 Mhz band, then
push FREQ ENT button (*it's the red one next to the VFO) then push 10100 then
the AFX button... That will enter in that exact freq. From then out you SHOULD
always end up on 30 meters when you cycle through the
Oh yea, then go to the 17 meter band because that's on FIRE right now... Great
DX from you're area of the world right now. Enjoy.
From: notforc...@hotmail.com
To: ussvdha...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 21:13:22 +
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] need help
Try direct frequency entry for 10.1 MHz:
Tap: FREQ ENT, 1, 0, ., 1, AFX
Once you get to 10.1 MHz the BAND switch should cycle back to it normally.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
My k3 has developed a mind of its ownI have looked in manual but cant
find anything to help.
when I
Susan,
Please tell us how you select the 10mHz band In other words, tell us
the steps. There are several ways to select bands on the K3, and that
just may be part of the problem.
In the meantime, what happens if you use direct frequency entry?
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/9/2010 4:56 PM, ussv
It remembers close enough. Tune from 12 mhz back to 10.1 then select
another band. When you next select the 10Mhz band, it will be on 10.1
Buck
k4ia
k3 #101
In a message dated 10/9/2010 4:56:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ussvdha...@yahoo.com writes:
My k3 has developed a mind
Jeff,
Your proposed K3 configuration is close to mine. I would strongly submit that
you
should consider the KXV3A, the transverter interface as this allows you to feed
devices
dependent on an IF signal as it includes an IF port. And, it is relatively
cheap, less then
any single filter.
I do
Welcome to the Reflector Jeff!
The K3 will work with almost any microphone or headset, you will benefit
from trying a few cheap ones before splashing out. Depending on your
voice you will probably find the ordinary computer headsets work great.
Hook up another receiver to your computer and
If you are talking about the inability to escape from a message
when using CW and PTT on the CAT port, use four serial ports
(two for CAT, two for CW/PTT - which also allows SO2R FSK RTTY),
get a WinKey USB (www.k1el.com), or look into one of the other
SO2R controllers.
73,
... Joe,
Can you give more information on your setup and what the problem is?
I'm using N1MM and two K3s connected to a top ten DX Doubler and the Hamgadgets
MK1
keyer. Works great.
-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065
On Thu Dec 10 10:58 , Bill Maddock sent:
I am
Jim,
Set the K3 to operate CW in SSB mode first.
Hope this helps
73 Ken K5DNL
--
--- On Mon, 9/14/09, jpk5...@cox.net jpk5...@cox.net wrote:
From: jpk5...@cox.net jpk5...@cox.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Need help operating K3 with Yaesu Quadra
Jim,
This will key the K3 and it will put out whatever power you
have it set for, I set mine for 55 watts.
73 Ken K5DNL
---
--- On Mon, 9/14/09, Ken Roberson kwrober...@yahoo.com wrote:
From: Ken Roberson kwrober...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft
No actually you have to set the tun pwr config setting to NOR (I
believe) in order to get that to happen...
On Mon, 2009-09-14 at 11:10 -0700, Ken Roberson wrote:
Jim,
This will key the K3 and it will put out whatever power you
have it set for, I set mine for 55 watts.
73 Ken K5DNL
Jim,
I do not have a Quadra, but I can think of at least 2 ways to accomplish
what you are trying to do. Neither of which involve using the TUNE button.
1) Switch to CW mode - set the Power knob to the 70 to 80 watt range and
close the key (it does not have to be a key, just a switch or
Jerry,
1st question - did the seller provide the Control Cable? - a cable with
3 DB-9 connectors on it? If not you will need to build one (if you
eliminate computer control of the K2, you can do it with only 2 DB-9
connectors)
CAUTION - do not use a computer serial cable.
If you do not have
Lyle has written-up how he did it at www.kk7p.com
73 ZL3IN Paul
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At 12:46 PM 1/29/2009, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Wow, Pete, what a puzzle!
You might make up a little probe consisting of a wire connected to your rx
antenna input that you can touch to the circuit parts. If it has to be a
long lead, use a bit of coax so random signal pickup won't confuse things.
Pete,
Have you measured the emitter resistor (R2)? I would suspect that more
than the crystal.
Since you do suspect the crystal, do you have any other crystal that you
can substitute for it - it can be any fundamental crystal somewhere
between 3.5 MHz and 15 MHz as long as you have a receiver
Regrettably (hi), the emitter resistor is fine - very close to
nominal. wish I had a crystal to substitute, but I don't, so maybe I need
to get one from Elecraft - or just hang up the whole thing and get an XG-2.
Thanks for thinking about this, Don. I hope people don't mind my
continuing
If you havn't checked it out already, check out the BNC connector.
Mine had a problem internally and will cause problems.
73,
Tony W7GO
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber
Hi Pete,
You are working much too hard. I designed the XG1 for Elecraft and if
you send it to me, I'll repair it for you.
73,
Bob, N6CM
On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 6:34 AM, Pete Smith pete.n...@gmail.com wrote:
Regrettably (hi), the emitter resistor is fine - very close to
nominal. wish I had a
I had a similar problem with my XG-2 right after assembly, on one of its
three frequencies. Measuring voltages etc. did not give a clue, so I
finally took a crystal from my junk box and connected its terminals in
parallel with the crystal on the board (simply making the Xtal leads touch
the
Thanks Don. Unfortunately, all those variables test OK. I've gotta fix my
old scope!
I think that voltage must be an indication that the transistor oscillator
is at least drawing the right amount of current through R9. I'm going back
to recheck all my work on the default output attenuator.
No, sorry - I meant that in the 50uv position it generated an S9
reading. In the 1 UV position it was easily audible, but no S meter
deflection at all.
73, Pete
At 01:41 PM 1/28/2009, John wrote:
At 10:53 AM 28/01/09, you wrote:
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an
: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Pete Smith
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 3:15 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1
Thanks Don. Unfortunately, all those variables test OK. I've gotta fix my
old scope!
I
Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no
improvement. The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position,
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.
Anyone else? I know that if I
I don't have mine in front of me, but it is the SMA device that is on
there that you need to replace. It gets blown out. I'll grab the
docs real quick and follow-up.
Dave Wilburn
NM4M
Pete Smith wrote:
I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally
zapped with RF
Have you checked for any damage to the circuit board traces? If
enough power was applied to fry those resistors despite D1 D2
being in the circuit, maybe some of the traces were damaged as well.
I would think it would be visually obvious, but maybe not.
73
--
Joe KB8AP
On Jan 28, 2009,
It appears I was thinking of another device. I would first suspect Q1.
Dave Wilburn
NM4M
David Wilburn wrote:
I don't have mine in front of me, but it is the SMA device that is on
there that you need to replace. It gets blown out. I'll grab the
docs real quick and follow-up.
Dave
At 10:53 AM 28/01/09, you wrote:
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move an S-meter that
was formerly tested with it and registered S9.
Do you mean you used to get S9 with a 1uV signal? I would think the
1uV signal would be close to the noise level.
John
k7up
, January 28, 2009 9:54 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need Help with XG1
Thanks for the idea - I removed both D1 and D2 from the circuit - no
improvement. The signal is quite audible (in the 50 uv switch position,
and barely audible in the 1 uV position, but doesn't move
Pete,
Do you have the proper voltage on Q1? Check for 1.22 volts at the
cathode of U2. Also check the value of R3 and R3 with your ohmmeter.
It sounds like you have replaced everything important, but if you had
enough RF to fry the resistors, you may have damaged the switch contacts
at the
I have an XG-1 Receiver Test Oscillator which I must have accidentally
zapped with RF somehow (I don't know when) because the output resistors
R6-8 were fried. I replaced them, as well as R4 and R5, C4 and the
transistor. The slide switch in the output tests ok.
When I turn the XG-1 on, I
Norm,
You do not have to enter the menu at all - just press the WPM+ and WPM-
buttons at the same time and it will go into tune. If you enter the
menu, then the operation of th eWPM+ and WPM- buttons become different
because they will change from one menu item to another or after pressing
Larry,
RFC15 will not cure the problem, but it is not likely missing. Direct
him to the errata page and he should see that the choke is now one with
a large body - he should install it. If RFC15 is truly missing, he can
temporarily replace it with a short bit of wire.
On the VCO problem,
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marcus Busch [DL1EKC]
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 1:40 PM
Marcus, first try searching on your PC for the DLL it may be there but not
running. If that fails you can download it from several
Rick,
Look carefully, then look again and again for the bad solder connection in
the K1 tuner.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
When I built my (second) K1-4 last year, it worked fine in all
respects, with output as expected. Couple months ago it turned
into a K1-2. I got full
no
effect. Neither does course language.
73
Rick
K7MW
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 5:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
Rick,
Look carefully, then look
PROTECTED]
To: Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 5:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Need help for sick K1
Rick,
Look carefully, then look again and again for the bad solder
connection in
the K1 tuner.
73,
Don W3FPR
Thanks Don - It does. I was using a dummy load and I should have mentioned
that I bypassed the tuner in the menu.
73
Rick
K7MW
Rick,
If the problem persists with the tuner in bypass state, the most likely
area
to look is the wattmeter section of the tuner.
73,
Don
Jess,
In general, if it worked once, the firmware is likley not to blame. Check
the soldering on the front panel carefully - especially pin 1 of U1 - you
can solder it from the socket side if you cut away a bit of the plastic.
The normal reuslt of an unsoldered connection is that it works
Quick update. I checked the 4 MHZ oscillator and it is working. On the
control board that is. Still no joy. I also unseated, reseated all of the
socketed chips and checked for bent, misaligned pins. Socketed chips are as
they should be. Also at the suggestion of another, checked to make sure the
Front panel's U3 powers the shaft encoder, the push buttons and the
pots, makes it look guilty, but it has nothing to do with the LCD
display which also fails once every 5 power ups.
The control board seems to initialize itself properly whenever the
LCDs work, so that will be somewhere down on
wayne burdick wrote:
Tom, N0SS, and I are trying to copy KI6WX on 10108 kHz now (0200Z), then
14062 at 0215Z, then 7040 at 0230Z.
I arrived in time for the 0230 sked and heard Tom, but I did not hear John.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
On Jul 19, 2004, at 5:59 PM, Pauli Nunez EA3BLQ wrote:
Any new ideas will be more than welcome. Best wishes for good luck to
you
all.
I had a persistant, intermittant INFO 080 message that I finally traced
down to a bit of slightly conductive solder flux between the two pins
of the AF
Pauli,
Is it possible that you popped the 150uH (I think) choke in the rs232
part of the KPA100 when you had it out? If everything else is working,
It has to be in either the KPA100 or maybe in the menu setting for the
PA. This of course assumes that you have the cable correct that hooks
Hi
Did you make the resistor and capacitor changes on the AUX buss. R6 should be
100 ohms and c12 should be .0027 on the control board. C64 should be 100 ohms
on the RF board.
Don Brown
KD5NDB
- Original Message -
From: Pauli Nunez EA3BLQmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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