[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Aaron,
Let me be the naughty boy and speak the otherwise.
I once built a KDSP2 and eventually sold it in return for a KAF2.  I am mostly 
a phone operator and found the artifact from KDSP2 was terrible.  Especially in 
the NR noise reduction, no matter how I adjusted the settings, I was unable to 
find a sweet spot.
I eventually got a KAF2 at the second hand market (say USD45).  It was simple 
but effective in both CW and SSB. It was well worth the money.
My complaint about DSP artifacts also applied to K3.  I am looking forward to 
the improved audio hardware in K3S.
My good hearing up to 12Khz sometimes does give me some trouble in DSP 
artifacts.
73
Johnny VR2XMC
 
  寄件人︰ Mark E. Musick 
 收件人︰ 'Aaron Scott' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 傳送日期︰ 2015年09月7日 (週一) 1:01 PM
 主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615
   
Aaron,
I would not toss it.
I just got my K2 serial #5308 back from Don, W3FPR.
I bought it used and had Don to put additional options in it as I have bad
eyesight. It works great. I am very pleased with it.
He did a fantastic job and will work with you to get it right. He will even
build and install the SSB option for you. His prices are very reasonable.
Don is here on the reflector and has a website.
Send him an e-mail and see what you can work out with him.
You've got too much money tied up in the radio to just throw it in the
trash.

73,

Mark Musick, WB9CIF

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Aaron
Scott
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 5:59 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 7615

I bought the Elecraft K2 # 7615.
I'm just wondering if I could send the unit back and just cut my losses on
it. I have it assembled except for the SSB  Module. For the past couple of
months I have been trying to align the unit. Every single step of the
process has been a battle. I have received help from the Elecraft Email
subscription but I am just tired of fighting with it. I have gone over all
of the solder point and made sure that they are good along with the
components being inserted correctly, I also had electronic engineers go over
it. I just can't get it to work. I can get it to generate a tone for the
tone generator test but that is as far as I can get. I'm at the point that
if I can't get Elecraft to look at it, then I'm just going to dump it in the
trash and sign my thousand bucks that I have invested in it as a loss and
try to save up for another radio. I don't know what else to do. I am really
tired of fighting with it and it has become and object of frustration
instead of a way to communicate with the world.
Please Help

Aaron SCOTT K5ATG
2108 Turner dr
Midwest City, OK 73110

--
'73
Aaron Scott
K5ATG 
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Touch screen on a transceiver:

- a vertical screen is not so easy to tap
- a touchscreen probably drives down cost

Arie PA3A
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options

[Al Gulseth]

Ted,

If you do decide to go the K2 route with the KPA100/KAT100, you might consider 
putting them _both_ external in one package via the EC2 enclosure.

Check Alan W3DVX's site:
http://wilcoxengineering.com/kpa100-in-ec2/

OR

Ken KE4RG's blog:
http://ke4rg.blogspot.com/2015/03/assembling-and-using-kpa100kat100-ec2.html

73, Al

On Sun September 6 2015 10:45:13 pm Dauer, Edward wrote:
> Still exploring options for a backup rig for the K3.   (The KX3 stays at
> the other QTH.)   Began looking into the K2.  The build sounds interesting.
>  One choice that has to be made is between the KDSP2 DSP filter and the
> KAF2 audio filter and clock.  Apparently it has to be one or the other -
> not both.  Any advice about that choice?  Anyone who chose one now wish
> they had done the other?  In case it matters I plan to operate CW only, and
> would probably go for the internal KPA100 and the external KAT100.  Thanks
> for whatever counsel might be offered . . .
>
> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options

[Kenneth Christiansen]

Hi Ted and the group

I built my K2 in the spring of 2000 and put in most every option that was 
offered. I had the KAF2 first and kept it when I bought the KDSP2. I am glad I 
kept it as after a year or so I went back from the KDSP2 to the KAF2. I just 
never did like the sound of the KDSP2 and after I went back to the KAF2 was 
never sorry. I now have my K3 and KX3 so gave my K2 and all accessories to a 
local high school radio club after using it camping for 13 years. They are 
still using it and having a good time.

73 and good luck. Audio reception is personal so I have no way of knowing what 
would work out best for you.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:45 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> 
> Still exploring options for a backup rig for the K3.   (The KX3 stays at the 
> other QTH.)   Began looking into the K2.  The build sounds interesting.  One 
> choice that has to be made is between the KDSP2 DSP filter and the KAF2 audio 
> filter and clock.  Apparently it has to be one or the other - not both.  Any 
> advice about that choice?  Anyone who chose one now wish they had done the 
> other?  In case it matters I plan to operate CW only, and would probably go 
> for the internal KPA100 and the external KAT100.  Thanks for whatever counsel 
> might be offered . . .
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options

[Don Wilhelm]

Dauer,

If you operate mostly CW, you will find the KAF2 quite adequate.
But if you operate SSB in crowded band conditions (contests mostly), you 
will want to go with the KDSP2.

Both have the Real Time Clock included.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/6/2015 11:45 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

Still exploring options for a backup rig for the K3.   (The KX3 stays at the 
other QTH.)   Began looking into the K2.  The build sounds interesting.  One 
choice that has to be made is between the KDSP2 DSP filter and the KAF2 audio 
filter and clock.  Apparently it has to be one or the other - not both.  Any 
advice about that choice?  Anyone who chose one now wish they had done the 
other?  In case it matters I plan to operate CW only, and would probably go for 
the internal KPA100 and the external KAT100.  Thanks for whatever counsel might 
be offered . . .



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Save Configeration freezes

[Mike Harris]

G'day,

FWIW config save on my Win7/64 box with 38400 bit/sec between it and the 
K3 takes about 4 seconds beginning to end.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 07/09/2015 00:44, way235 via Elecraft wrote:

way235 wrote

I am using version 1.15.8.18 with windows 7. The save configuration bar
goes to about 80 percent and then the program freezes and I have to go to
task manager to close the utility.
Configure crystal filters works,  Edit CW memories works,  Power on banner
and time and date work.
I just can't save the Configuration.


The Save Configuration is a 3k file and saves about 80% in a couple of
seconds and the last 20% in about 10 minutes.  I just have to wait longer
than I expected.

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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered today!

[Ken Alexander]

Maybe Elecraft should offer to sell "vanity" serial numbers for their 
equipment.  Sounds like a good way to extract some extra bucks from 
people who find such trivial things important.


Having a great piece of equipment isn't enough?

73,

Ken Alexander
VE3HLS



On 2015-09-06 11:09 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

1001001: That could be a very long wait, an eternal wait :-)

73, Phil W7OX

On 9/6/15 7:53 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

If that¹s the contest, I am going to wait a while to order mine.  73 in
binary is 1001001, which is also a palindrome. Now that would be a cool
S/N.

Ted, KN1CBR





Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2015 09:03:18 -0700
From: Phil Wheeler 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!
Message-ID: <55ec63c6.3020...@socal.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder
what qualifies as "cool".  Maybe 11011?

Phil W7OX






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[Elecraft] K2 Options

[Dauer, Edward]

Re the filter options for a new K2 -

Thanks to all who replied, both on-list and off.  Very helpful, as always.

The order goes in today.

Ted, KN1CBR
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[Elecraft] KX3 KXPD3 FS

[Joe Carter]

Original owner - non-smoker - worked fine for me but bought a Begali Adventure 
(fantastic key) so now this is excess to my needs.
Has the spring mod package and wire jumper mod.
$85 shipped USA 
Thanks, Joe, w9jc

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,9/7/2015 6:48 AM, Bert Craig wrote:

Although the K3 has better specs than the venerable K2, I have read that, particularly 
for CW, the K2's receiver is more pleasurable to "listen to."


The K2 on SSB sounds fine when set for the full bandwidth TX filter, but 
just awful when set for narrower bandwidths when listening through the 
stagger-tuned crystal filter. I've always found the K3 to sound good no 
matter what.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] FS KAT-100-1 Auto Tuner (Built) for K2

[N9KO]

I am selling my KAT-100-1 auto tuner.  I sold the K2 a few years ago and the 
buyer did not want the tuner.  The tuner worked well with my K2.  


PLEASE NOTE:  The control cable (not the KIO2 accessory which is NOT INCLUDED) 
as mentioned on page 25 of manual was lost.  I ordered the parts to build a 
replacement for it, but never got around to building it.  These parts received 
from Elecraft are 
included in this sale.  

The kit now costs $249.95.   I am selling it for $150, including shipping to 
the lower 48.  NO INTERNATIONAL SALES.

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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Don Wilhelm]

The basic K2 is less than the price of a K3/K3S, but consider that the 
K3/K3S is an all mode 160 thru 6 meter transceiver, including AM and FM 
modes, and uses DSP for modulation/demodulation and filtering as well as 
most of the other functions, making it an SDR transceiver that can be 
upgraded with no-cost firmware downloads.


The basic K2 is CW only for 80 thru 10 meters (but not 60 meters). If 
you add all the options to give it the full 160 thru 10 meter band 
capability (6 meters must use an external transverter), SSB, Noise 
Blanker, and audio DSP filtering, you will have a total price that 
approaches the K3/K3S, but you still have to build it.  If you ask one 
of the builders for hire to build it for you, the price can even exceed 
that of the K3 (depending on your chosen options).  It will not do AM or 
FM, and will not receive very far outside the ham bands.


The K3/K3S can be used for general coverage receive with the addition of 
the KBPF3, so if general coverage is part of your desires, the K3/K3S is 
your only choice.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 9:07 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:


Yep, I thought about that - as soon as the K3S came out.

But the K2 costs less; it offers more kit building, which I enjoy; and it
would be easier to answer for when the XYL asks ³Why do you need TWO of
those?"


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Save Configeration freezes

[Don Wilhelm]

You might want to look at your computer.
It sounds to me like K3Utility has no problem gathering the 
configuration information, but your computer is having trouble saving 
the data to the file.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/6/2015 11:44 PM, way235 via Elecraft wrote:

way235 wrote
The Save Configuration is a 3k file and saves about 80% in a couple of 
seconds and the last 20% in about 10 minutes. I just have to wait 
longer than I expected.


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[Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Dauer, Edward]

Yep, I thought about that - as soon as the K3S came out.

But the K2 costs less; it offers more kit building, which I enjoy; and it
would be easier to answer for when the XYL asks ³Why do you need TWO of
those?" 


Ted, KN1CBR


>
>
>On 9/6/15, 11:01 PM, "Nr4c"  wrote:
>
>>Get another K3. 
>>
>>Sent from my iPhone
>>...nr4c. bill
>>
>>
>>> On Sep 6, 2015, at 11:45 PM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Still exploring options for a backup rig for the K3.   (The KX3 stays
>>>at the other QTH.)   Began looking into the K2.  The build sounds
>>>interesting.  One choice that has to be made is between the KDSP2 DSP
>>>filter and the KAF2 audio filter and clock.  Apparently it has to be one
>>>or the other - not both.  Any advice about that choice?  Anyone who
>>>chose one now wish they had done the other?  In case it matters I plan
>>>to operate CW only, and would probably go for the internal KPA100 and
>>>the external KAT100.  Thanks for whatever counsel might be offered . . .
>>> 
>>> Ted, KN1CBR
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>>> Message delivered to n...@widomaker.com
>

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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Bert Craig]

Although the K3 has better specs than the venerable K2, I have read that, 
particularly for CW, the K2's receiver is more pleasurable to "listen to." The 
KAF2 was specifically mentioned.

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI 

Sent from my android device.
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[Elecraft] MFJ-297 mic

[Eddy Avila]

Anyone using the MFJ-297 desk mic for a K2? My setup is compatible with ICOM 
mic connector so this should mate up to my K2 FB.
Thanks and 73
ed
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Phil Wheeler]

Great fun to build, Ted. When I "finished" my K2 I 
was almost sad to see the project go. But it was 4 
years or so of fun, from mid-1999 thru 2003 or so, 
as the new options (SSB, KPA100, etc.) came 
available. And since then some upgrades, here and 
there -- even some 3rd party add-ins.  The K2, as 
it has turned out, is the last major ham radio 
kit. I don't expect that to change, now that 
thru-hole parts are largely supplanted by SMT.  So 
take your time and enjoy it to the fullest.


73, Phil W7OX

On 9/7/15 6:07 AM, Dauer, Edward wrote:


Yep, I thought about that - as soon as the K3S came out.

But the K2 costs less; it offers more kit building, which I enjoy; and it
would be easier to answer for when the XYL asks ³Why do you need TWO of
those?"


Ted, KN1CBR


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[Elecraft] KX3 - DC Plug +

[Pierre]

... Solutions found. One of the pad of the KX3s DC connector was disconnected. 
I simply removed the side panel, and with a thin point soldering tool, the 
place was sufficient to get to the pad (while protecting the plastic) and 
re-solder it  Hope that it will hold ... simple solution.

And about the pixel problem, it was related to the RF control (RF not 0) so I 
did the correction ... and no more annoying "pixel" ...

Many thanks for your help.

73 de Pierre VE2PID
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options

[Phil Kane]

On 9/6/2015 8:45 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

> In case it matters I plan to operate CW only, and would probably go
> for the internal KPA100 and the external KAT100.  Thanks for whatever
> counsel might be offered . . .

That's the set-up that I have and have been pleased with it (the rig
never leaves the house).  Too bad the antenna setup here is nowhere near
what the rig deserves.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] K3 External key out

[Gerry Villhauer]

I connected my K3, external key out to my loop antenna control box to shut of 
the power to the amplifier when the K3 transmitter is keyed.  It works fine in 
SSB mode but it CW it has no effect.  Did I miss a setting somewhere in the 
menu?

Gerry, W0GV
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Victor Brodeur]

Dale:
I would also like to see some surface mount kits
 from Elecraft.
Vic 
AJ4ZT

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dale
Putnam
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 12:57 PM
To: Phil Wheeler; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

As we all get better with SMD.. I hope more kits come along that we can
build using that technology.
There are some small kits available today, but it would be great to see some
of the Elecraft kits available with smd. Maybe use the dummy load kit as a
primer, then the KAF2 could be easily converted to SMD, for one example. 

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 

  
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[Elecraft] Alternate W2 display on PC?

[Mark N2QT via Elecraft]

I'm trying integrate a couple of W2 wattmeters into an SO2R setup. As screen 
space is
at a premium I was wondering if there was a way to display a smaller bar graph  
without
all the extra stuff.   (The old Wavenode power meters used to do this, but I 
lost a parallel
port to talk to talk to them with the latest PC upgrade). 

Mark. N2QT
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[Jim Lowman]

Nice!  That would be binary for 23.  :-)

Nothing special about my s/n - 10276.
I'm too lazy at the moment to calculate what that is in octal.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 9/6/2015 7:21 PM, Ian wrote:

My K3S is s/n 10111.
73, Ian N8IK





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Options

[Jim Lowman]

The K2 is still handy for Field Day.
Until recently, our QRP group was almost 100% K2s.

A KX3 has since made an appearance, and one fellow brings his K3.

Maybe it would be better to say that the K2 design is almost 20 years old.

73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 9/6/2015 9:36 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Jim,

I tend to agree, though the K2 is still a very credible rig. The K3 
replaced mine as my main station radio in early 2014.  Used K3 or even 
the TS-590S would be a good choice.


"it was designed before the turn of the century!" makes it sound like 
Marconi used it :-)


73, Phil W7OX



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 External key out

[Vic Rosenthal]

Are you sure you have VOX on and are actually going into transmit in CW mode?

Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO 

> On Sep 7, 2015, at 8:22 PM, Gerry Villhauer  wrote:
> 
> I connected my K3, external key out to my loop antenna control box to shut of 
> the power to the amplifier when the K3 transmitter is keyed.  It works fine 
> in SSB mode but it CW it has no effect.  Did I miss a setting somewhere in 
> the menu?
> 
> Gerry, W0GV
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[Elecraft] K3 shuts down

[Stephen]

My K3 has worked flawlessly since I got it over a year ago, until 
yesterday. It now shuts down if the power is advanced over 11 watts (pa 
in). The power supply seems to be ok as it runs my TS 850 at 100 watts 
without complaint. I have checked and swapped cables between the K3 and 
my dummy load. I did a reconfiguration. The K3 provides no error 
messages, but the display dims and flickers just before it shuts down.

Am I missing something obvious?
Steve, K5SI
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

Phil,

You can't let "aging" stop you.  I wear a clear face cover and use a 
binocular 5 to 10 x magnifier.  The really small parts however, aren't 
meant for human handling.  But the larger size are fine.


If an SMD kit were made with a proper mask for solder paste, it wouldn't 
be bad at all.  I think it would be "fun".


73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 9/7/2015 11:30 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Well, Dale, I'm set up for SMD, and can do it, but I don't regard it 
as "fun". Too easy to sneeze and lose parts which are hard to see at 
any distance. My nerves and vision are not what they were 10-15 years 
ago, either; I think that's what they call "aging" :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 9/7/15 9:56 AM, Dale Putnam wrote:
As we all get better with SMD.. I hope more kits come along that we 
can build using that technology.
There are some small kits available today, but it would be great to 
see some of the Elecraft kits available
with smd. Maybe use the dummy load kit as a primer, then the KAF2 
could be easily converted to SMD, for

one example.

Have a great day,


--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy





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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Dale Putnam]

As we all get better with SMD.. I hope more kits come along that we can build 
using that technology.
There are some small kits available today, but it would be great to see some of 
the Elecraft kits available
with smd. Maybe use the dummy load kit as a primer, then the KAF2 could be 
easily converted to SMD, for 
one example. 

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Phil Wheeler]

Well, Dale, I'm set up for SMD, and can do it, but 
I don't regard it as "fun". Too easy to sneeze and 
lose parts which are hard to see at any distance. 
My nerves and vision are not what they were 10-15 
years ago, either; I think that's what they call 
"aging" :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 9/7/15 9:56 AM, Dale Putnam wrote:
As we all get better with SMD.. I hope more kits 
come along that we can build using that technology.
There are some small kits available today, but 
it would be great to see some of the Elecraft 
kits available
with smd. Maybe use the dummy load kit as a 
primer, then the KAF2 could be easily converted 
to SMD, for

one example.

Have a great day,


--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy





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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

One of the nice things about Elecraft radios is that — except for personal 
bragging rights, etc. — the serial number doesn’t matter :)

Grant NQ5T


> On Sep 7, 2015, at 12:16 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:
> 
> Nice!  That would be binary for 23.  :-)
> 
> Nothing special about my s/n - 10276.

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Gary]

Al,

When I can stop laughing I will surely need a glass of water.

So well put.

Gary 

-Original Message-
From: "Al Lorona" 
Sent: ‎8/‎09/‎2015 7:42 AM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

Oh! There's the P7... calling CQ... and no one is coming back to him!! I'll be 
the first to work him... I can't believe this... Let me just use my cool 
touchscreen... I move his signal with my index finger into the passband... and 
then throw my call out... wait... what the... Oh no, the itty-bitty tip of my 
pinky accidentally touched the macro button to switch to the beam on 2 meters, 
shut off the antenna tuner, and reduce power to one watt... oh no, OH NO!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with K3S build

[Ken Bandy, KJ9B]

Thanks for the replies, guys.  

 

Dick, I double-checked, and the KSYN3A board is installed into the correct 
slot, and the only external jumper is correctly installed, according to the 
instructions.

 

Matt, with the unit powered on, the green LED on the is on constant on the 
board, and the board is fully seated into its receptacle on the RF board.

 

Greg, according to the assembly manual, I am supposed to exit from the 
configuration menu to get to the synthesizer status.  I stepped through the 
options available in the configuration menu, and did not see anything regarding 
the status of the synthesizer.

 

I have to work tomorrow, but I'll send an email to Elecraft and see what they 
have to say.

 

Thanks again!

 

73,

Ken, KJ9B

 

From: RIchard Williams [mailto:richarddw1...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 5:33 PM
To: Ken Bandy, KJ9B
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with K3S build

 

Ken,

 

Make sure you have the Sync board installed in the correct slot (not the slot 
for the sub receiver sync board);  additionally, make sure you have the cables 
connected correctly at both ends of the two cables.

 

One additional check might be to check and make sure you have the TCXO 
installed correctly (I believe it will fit in the holder either way).

 

Dick, K8ZTT

 

  _  

From: "Ken Bandy, KJ9B" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2015 9:51 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Problem with K3S build


Hello all.  Last week I received my K3S/100 (S/N 10270) kit, including KDVR3
recorder, KRX3A second receiver, and .5ppm TCXO.  After getting the kit
assembled per the assembly manual, I got to the checkout phase prior to
installing the 100W amp, and second receiver.  The unit powered on as it
should, however I got no "ERR PLL" message on the display as it stated I
probably would.  When I got to the Synthesizer Check, I was able to get into
"TECH MD" mode, and turned it "ON".  However, I was not able to get to
"SYN1" to display in the VFO B area.  The bottom part of the display would
start with what I assume was supposed to be the time (however it was in the
area of 37:20:20??), then as I rotated the VFO B knob, it would step through
what I assume was the date, then "0.00", "13.6V", "1.05A", "FP 28C", "PLL1
2.9" (ranging up to "PLL1 3.2"), "PLL2*0.0", "AFV 0", and finally "0.0 dBV".
This is all I can get.



Of course, with this being a holiday, contacting Elecraft wouldn't work, so
I thought I would throw this out here to see if anyone had any ideas as to
what might be wrong with my unit.



Thanks, and I hope everyone is having a great Labor Day (where applicable).



73,

Ken, KJ9B

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Jack Brindle]

If it were _my_ K3 (or K3S), I would add the very inexpensive 1N5400 or 1N5407 
diode across the relays and eliminate the worry. Even reed relays can produce 
quite a kick, and the low cost of the diode would do wonders for peace of mind.

This same advice goes for antenna (and other) relays switched by the KRC2.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

 
> On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:40 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> Thanks all. The 200v tolerance will handle the minimal energy produced by
> the reed relay field collapsing.
> 
> 73
> 
> jim ab3cv
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
>> Why do you need to look at the schematic.  The K3S specification says it
>> will handle +200 volts at 5 Amps, so those are the limits at the box level.
>> No matter what the device data sheet for a device might indicate, there
>> can be other considerations in the K3S design (or other 'boxes') that say
>> you should observe the specifications for the entire unit rather than
>> trying to re-engineer from the device specifications.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> 
>> On 9/7/2015 7:59 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> 
>>> I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. The
>>> KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to be out of
>>> production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a IRF630.
>>> 
>>> If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a pair of
>>> reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Mac People: KUSB Issue

[Jack Brindle]

Current requirements for the USB-Serial adapter can be seen by running a system 
report (About This Mac, then click on then System Report button). Then, select 
the USB entry under Hardware. If you have a lot of devices, figuring out which 
it is could be a challenge, but it will most likely be one of the FTDI 
interfaces. My KUSB shows a current requirement of 90 mA.

The Mac will try to put all devices on the USB to sleep when it goes to sleep, 
whether they are connected to a hub or not. When the Mac is awakened, it will 
try to reinitialize the ports as they were before the sleep condition, but if 
it is not doing this, then the software program should catch the wakeup 
notification and re-initialize the port. If it does not, you should file a bug 
report with the software package’s author to let them know they have something 
to fix. MacLogger DX is pretty good; it would surprise me if this isn’t already 
being done, but dropping an email to them is still a good idea.

Note that the USB stack is being reworked for El Capitan, so until the final 
release, you may see major changes in the way things work. Things have become 
much better since the first developer release, but there are still tweaks 
occurring with each subsequent release as problems are uncovered. 

Jack Brindle, W6FB


> On Sep 7, 2015, at 3:40 PM, David Ahrendts  wrote:
> 
> Many thanks for the half-dozen direct responses off list. Most of you run a 
> powered USB hub for the KUSB (or several). May I ask what type/brand powered 
> hub are you successfully using with your Mac device for the KUSB or multiple 
> KUSBs?
> 
> It appears the chip in the KUSB can be interpreted as a real power hog, and 
> the Mac Mini, MacBook Pro, iMac will protect against unusual drain. It just 
> shuts off the USB port after a little warning. A powered hub would certainly 
> remove that load from the Mac.
> I will also admit to being one of the million or so Mac beta testers and 
> we’re currently on OS X El Capitan beta Version 10.11 (15A278b). And believe 
> me, there have been/are plentiful Mac sleep-wake issues before they finalize. 
> 
> David A., KC0XT, LA
> 
> 
>> On Sep 7, 2015, at 2:39 PM, David Ahrendts  wrote:
>> 
>> What can ya do to keep your fabulous Mac OS X device (in my case a Mac Mini) 
>> from kicking off the KUSB when it goes to sleep? Trying to keep MacLogger 
>> connected to the K3S via it’s KUSB for several days at a time (like Labor 
>> Day weekend). It appears to get kicked off for inactivity as a power drain 
>> which requires (I know, poor me!) re-starting the Mac Mini to re-initialize 
>> the USB port with the KUSB. Not a big thing, but maybe there is a way to 
>> refresh the USB devices connected (a Mac issue). Anyone?
>> 
>> 
>> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com    
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Mac People: KUSB Issue

[Joel Black]

I have turned off computer sleep on my Late 2012 iMac. It is set to “Never.” I 
do have my screen set to go to sleep. I have an add-on called Caffeine which, 
when selecting with my mouse, will allow me to either keep the display on or 
allow it to go to sleep. It’s my understanding that OS X runs its utilities 
during the wee morning hours and I don’t want to interfere with that (I could 
be wrong).

As for a powered USB-3 hub the HooToo hub works great: 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FR795WA?psc=1=true_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
 


I do *not* try and run my external sound card through it.

73,
Joel - W4JBB

> On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:40 PM, David Ahrendts  wrote:
> 
> Many thanks for the half-dozen direct responses off list. Most of you run a 
> powered USB hub for the KUSB (or several). May I ask what type/brand powered 
> hub are you successfully using with your Mac device for the KUSB or multiple 
> KUSBs?
> 
> It appears the chip in the KUSB can be interpreted as a real power hog, and 
> the Mac Mini, MacBook Pro, iMac will protect against unusual drain. It just 
> shuts off the USB port after a little warning. A powered hub would certainly 
> remove that load from the Mac.
> I will also admit to being one of the million or so Mac beta testers and 
> we’re currently on OS X El Capitan beta Version 10.11 (15A278b). And believe 
> me, there have been/are plentiful Mac sleep-wake issues before they finalize. 
> 
> David A., KC0XT, LA
> 
> 
>> On Sep 7, 2015, at 2:39 PM, David Ahrendts  wrote:
>> 
>> What can ya do to keep your fabulous Mac OS X device (in my case a Mac Mini) 
>> from kicking off the KUSB when it goes to sleep? Trying to keep MacLogger 
>> connected to the K3S via it’s KUSB for several days at a time (like Labor 
>> Day weekend). It appears to get kicked off for inactivity as a power drain 
>> which requires (I know, poor me!) re-starting the Mac Mini to re-initialize 
>> the USB port with the KUSB. Not a big thing, but maybe there is a way to 
>> refresh the USB devices connected (a Mac issue). Anyone?
>> 
>> 
>> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com    
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Fred Jensen]

The P5 would likely be Romeo ...

Seriously, touchscreens vary greatly, and a great deal seems to depend 
on the underlying software controlling and sensing it.  ATM's are almost 
completely foolproof.  They tend to have a small number of large touch 
areas on a screen.  My Kindle Fire HD is OK, it's big enough that the 
"keyboard" has big enough touch areas for one with arthritic fumble 
fingers like me, however it's spell "correct" will make you look like 
you just arrived from another sector of the galaxy.  My Samsung Galaxy 5 
has a smaller keyboard of course, but surprisingly, I can text at a 
reasonable rate with my two largest digits and not make a lot of 
misteaks.  Most will be corrected properly.


Daughter bought a new laptop with Win 8.  Wow!  Many years ago, an 
earnest 2Lt described LAPES [it Googles fine] which we were going to use 
to get our gear out of the C-130 on missions.  When he finished, one of 
my troopers put up his hand and when called on asked, "Just how drunk 
were the guys when they invented this."  Applicable to Microsoft and Win 
8 too.


Fred K6DGW
--Northern California Contest Club
--CU in the Cal QSO Party
--3-4 Oct 2015

On 9/7/2015 3:56 PM, Richard W. Solomon wrote:

P7 ??? Would have more of an impact if it was the P5.
At least to some folks.

73, Dick, W1KSZ



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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Richard W. Solomon]

Considering the charges Romeo has been convicted of and the charges he's 
Awaiting trial on, he may not see the light of day in this century.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 4:36 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

The P5 would likely be Romeo ...

Seriously, touchscreens vary greatly, and a great deal seems to depend on
the underlying software controlling and sensing it.  ATM's are almost
completely foolproof.  They tend to have a small number of large touch areas
on a screen.  My Kindle Fire HD is OK, it's big enough that the "keyboard"
has big enough touch areas for one with arthritic fumble fingers like me,
however it's spell "correct" will make you look like you just arrived from
another sector of the galaxy.  My Samsung Galaxy 5 has a smaller keyboard of
course, but surprisingly, I can text at a reasonable rate with my two
largest digits and not make a lot of misteaks.  Most will be corrected
properly.

Daughter bought a new laptop with Win 8.  Wow!  Many years ago, an earnest
2Lt described LAPES [it Googles fine] which we were going to use to get our
gear out of the C-130 on missions.  When he finished, one of my troopers put
up his hand and when called on asked, "Just how drunk were the guys when
they invented this."  Applicable to Microsoft and Win
8 too.

Fred K6DGW
--Northern California Contest Club
--CU in the Cal QSO Party
--3-4 Oct 2015

On 9/7/2015 3:56 PM, Richard W. Solomon wrote:
> P7 ??? Would have more of an impact if it was the P5.
> At least to some folks.
>
> 73, Dick, W1KSZ
>

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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

Very good Fred.  Windows 8 was a disaster for Microsoft.  Pretty much 
everyone involved with it left, retired or were fired. My last gig with 
the USAF was designing computer-based training for various systems.  I 
had to actually learn the systems in order to figure out how to train 
people to use them. As a usability engineer, looking at critical AF 
systems... well I wished I had that line - it would have been perfect!


Windows 8 can be fixed though.  Add an extra menu system for $5 and it 
works just like 7.  Windows 10 is better.  But not better enough.  
Microsoft failed to get the complete message.  Apple is wise.  They have 
a separate OS for each platform.  Windows 10 - like 8, does desktop and 
tablet equally badly.  Various linux-based U/I's remain the very best 
for the desktop computer. Linux Mint Cinnamon is my favorite.


Good touch screen systems move components around so what you need is 
there when you need them depending on what you're doing.  Flat, 
touch-enabled, color screens will be the defacto interface for a long, 
long time.


Fortunately, most everything needed to make the K-Line happy runs just 
fine on Windows 10.  FTDI drivers, for the most part, are bullet proof 
on 10.


Sigh.  Now that I'm done testing Windoze 10, I'll put the PCs back in 
the closet and plug in my Macs again.  Life will be so much easier...


73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 9/7/2015 5:36 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

The P5 would likely be Romeo ...

Seriously, touchscreens vary greatly, and a great deal seems to depend 
on the underlying software controlling and sensing it. ATM's are 
almost completely foolproof.  They tend to have a small number of 
large touch areas on a screen.  My Kindle Fire HD is OK, it's big 
enough that the "keyboard" has big enough touch areas for one with 
arthritic fumble fingers like me, however it's spell "correct" will 
make you look like you just arrived from another sector of the 
galaxy.  My Samsung Galaxy 5 has a smaller keyboard of course, but 
surprisingly, I can text at a reasonable rate with my two largest 
digits and not make a lot of misteaks.  Most will be corrected properly.


Daughter bought a new laptop with Win 8.  Wow!  Many years ago, an 
earnest 2Lt described LAPES [it Googles fine] which we were going to 
use to get our gear out of the C-130 on missions.  When he finished, 
one of my troopers put up his hand and when called on asked, "Just how 
drunk were the guys when they invented this." Applicable to Microsoft 
and Win 8 too.


Fred K6DGW
--Northern California Contest Club
--CU in the Cal QSO Party
--3-4 Oct 2015

On 9/7/2015 3:56 PM, Richard W. Solomon wrote:

P7 ??? Would have more of an impact if it was the P5.
At least to some folks.

73, Dick, W1KSZ



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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Fred Townsend]

Don:
Acetone should NEVER be used in electronic assembles. Acetone causes both
long and short term effects on various components including the PCB. It
effects epoxy, lacquers, paints, and plastics, particularly polystyrenes
where its effects are almost instantaneous.  Pour some in a polystyrene cup
and watch it immediately cloud up.

>From Wikipedia:
Acetone is a good solvent for many plastics and some synthetic fibers. It is
used for thinning polyester resin, cleaning tools used with it, and
dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before they harden. It is used as
one of the volatile components of some paints and varnishes. 

Polyester resin, also called gel coat, in case you don't know, is the stuff
PC boards are made of. Leave acetone in the paint department where it
belongs. I suggest alcohol, any kind as long as it pure, be used for
de-fluxing PC boards.  

73, Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message- 
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2015 2:43 PM
To: Nick Lelyak
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

Nick,

Yes, but it fails when it cools again - something is not making good
contact, and it may be residue from the cleaner.  I can't be certain of
that, but I would get that cleaner residue off and try again.

I would suggest that you remove the cleaner residue from the contacts with
acetone - apply it with a brush or cotton swab and immediately wipe the area
with a clean cloth of paper towel.  Do only a few pins at a time, and do not
let the acetone dry on the contacts or board.
You may want to mate and unmate the front panel and RF board several times,
cleaning between each to hopefully clean some of the 'goop' out of the
female header.

If you do not have gold pins on the connector to the front panel, consider
asking Elecraft for the gold replacement pins.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 5:27 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:
> Thanks Don, Guy
> appreciate yours quick response.
> I found out that problem disappears when front panel warms up to 37 C 
> and more.
> Looks like problem somewhere in FP. To clean main connector I used 
> Electronic Contact Cleaner. It may works not so good as Deoxit which 
> is not widely available in Canada. In any case to move on have to buy 
> Deoxit first.
> Thanks again
>
> 73, Nick VE3FJ
>

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[Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Jim Miller]

I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. The
KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to be out of
production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a IRF630.

If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a pair of
reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

>From page 17 in the manual:

KEY OUT (RCA/Phono) is the amplifier T-R relay
keying output, capable of keying up to +200VDC
@ 5A.

You might call that "burly". With the K3 one can key the "relay" jacks of
some old amplifiers (e.g. SB220/221) that would fry the circuit in other
transceivers. Just don't try it on a Collins 30L1, which is a high
*negative* voltage.

73, Guy K2AV



On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 7:59 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:

> I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. The
> KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to be out of
> production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a IRF630.
>
> If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a pair of
> reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?
>
> 73
>
> jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] Like NIB KX1 with extras for sale

[David Davis]

Hello All,

I have a like new in the box KX1 (Serial #2698) for sale.

I enjoyed building the radio and now it is time to move on to the next 
project.


The sale of the radio includes the following item:

1. The KX1 transceiver w/internal rechargeable batteries
2. The KXAT1 Internal ATU
3. The KXB3080 30/80 meter adapter
4. The KXPD1 Plug in Keyer Paddle
5. One BNC-BP BNC Male Stackable Binding Posts

I am asking $575.00 shipped to anywhere in the United States.

Pictures can be emailed upon request.

I am willing to ship the radio to anywhere although additional shipping 
costs might need to be added depending on the destination.


Thanks,
David Davis
KG6MTI
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Wes (N7WS)]

Disband the terrorist EPA (A terrific idea regardless) and we could go back to 
Freon vapor degreasers.


On 9/7/2015 5:05 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Fred,

Gary and I both have been using acetone for a long time.
If the board is flooded, the results can be catastrophic since residue flows 
under components and makes a mess.
But carefully applied with a swab or small brush to a small area and mopped up 
with a paper towel it will do the job very well. The contact time *must* be 
short, and that is why one must work in small areas.


Yes, alcohol can do a good job of cleaning flux too, but needs to have the 
same precautions - it can make just as much of a mess or more because alcohol 
attracts water vapor and causes it to condense on the surface being worked.  
Dip an opaque object in alcohol and remove it with a paper towel - note that 
the object will be wet with moisture.


Besides, the job for the particular problem stated was not flux removal, but 
removal of some unknown compound from connector pins. Alcohol is likely to be 
ineffective.


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] Alternate W2 display on PC?

[Mike Markowski]

Mark,

I recently converted my old W1 code to work with W2 though am not able to
run and verify for a few days.  It might be worth a try of you like the
looks of the 'tiny' display:

  http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft

and go to the "W1 and W2 Control" link to see screenshots.  (The display
shows units in dBm but can also be displayed in Watts.)

Tnx es 73,
Mike ab3ap

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 12:56 PM, Mark N2QT via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I'm trying integrate a couple of W2 wattmeters into an SO2R setup. As
> screen space is
> at a premium I was wondering if there was a way to display a smaller bar
> graph  without
> all the extra stuff.   (The old Wavenode power meters used to do this, but
> I lost a parallel
> port to talk to talk to them with the latest PC upgrade).
>
> Mark. N2QT
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Mac People: KUSB Issue

[David Ahrendts]

Many thanks for the half-dozen direct responses off list. Most of you run a 
powered USB hub for the KUSB (or several). May I ask what type/brand powered 
hub are you successfully using with your Mac device for the KUSB or multiple 
KUSBs?

It appears the chip in the KUSB can be interpreted as a real power hog, and the 
Mac Mini, MacBook Pro, iMac will protect against unusual drain. It just shuts 
off the USB port after a little warning. A powered hub would certainly remove 
that load from the Mac.
I will also admit to being one of the million or so Mac beta testers and we’re 
currently on OS X El Capitan beta Version 10.11 (15A278b). And believe me, 
there have been/are plentiful Mac sleep-wake issues before they finalize. 

David A., KC0XT, LA


> On Sep 7, 2015, at 2:39 PM, David Ahrendts  wrote:
> 
> What can ya do to keep your fabulous Mac OS X device (in my case a Mac Mini) 
> from kicking off the KUSB when it goes to sleep? Trying to keep MacLogger 
> connected to the K3S via it’s KUSB for several days at a time (like Labor Day 
> weekend). It appears to get kicked off for inactivity as a power drain which 
> requires (I know, poor me!) re-starting the Mac Mini to re-initialize the USB 
> port with the KUSB. Not a big thing, but maybe there is a way to refresh the 
> USB devices connected (a Mac issue). Anyone?
> 
> 
> David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com    
> 
> 
> 
> 




David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   




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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Richard W. Solomon]

P7 ??? Would have more of an impact if it was the P5.
At least to some folks.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Al
Lorona
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 2:41 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

Oh! There's the P7... calling CQ... and no one is coming back to him!! I'll
be the first to work him... I can't believe this... Let me just use my cool
touchscreen... I move his signal with my index finger into the passband...
and then throw my call out... wait... what the... Oh no, the itty-bitty tip
of my pinky accidentally touched the macro button to switch to the beam on 2
meters, shut off the antenna tuner, and reduce power to one watt... oh no,
OH NO!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Fred,

Gary and I both have been using acetone for a long time.
If the board is flooded, the results can be catastrophic since residue 
flows under components and makes a mess.
But carefully applied with a swab or small brush to a small area and 
mopped up with a paper towel it will do the job very well.  The contact 
time *must* be short, and that is why one must work in small areas.


Yes, alcohol can do a good job of cleaning flux too, but needs to have 
the same precautions - it can make just as much of a mess or more 
because alcohol attracts water vapor and causes it to condense on the 
surface being worked.  Dip an opaque object in alcohol and remove it 
with a paper towel - note that the object will be wet with moisture.


Besides, the job for the particular problem stated was not flux removal, 
but removal of some unknown compound from connector pins. Alcohol is 
likely to be ineffective.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 7:02 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

Don:
Acetone should NEVER be used in electronic assembles. Acetone causes both
long and short term effects on various components including the PCB. It
effects epoxy, lacquers, paints, and plastics, particularly polystyrenes
where its effects are almost instantaneous.  Pour some in a polystyrene cup
and watch it immediately cloud up.

>From Wikipedia:
Acetone is a good solvent for many plastics and some synthetic fibers. It is
used for thinning polyester resin, cleaning tools used with it, and
dissolving two-part epoxies and superglue before they harden. It is used as
one of the volatile components of some paints and varnishes.

Polyester resin, also called gel coat, in case you don't know, is the stuff
PC boards are made of. Leave acetone in the paint department where it
belongs. I suggest alcohol, any kind as long as it pure, be used for
de-fluxing PC boards.

73, Fred, AE6QL
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2015 2:43 PM
To: Nick Lelyak
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

Nick,

Yes, but it fails when it cools again - something is not making good
contact, and it may be residue from the cleaner.  I can't be certain of
that, but I would get that cleaner residue off and try again.

I would suggest that you remove the cleaner residue from the contacts with
acetone - apply it with a brush or cotton swab and immediately wipe the area
with a clean cloth of paper towel.  Do only a few pins at a time, and do not
let the acetone dry on the contacts or board.
You may want to mate and unmate the front panel and RF board several times,
cleaning between each to hopefully clean some of the 'goop' out of the
female header.

If you do not have gold pins on the connector to the front panel, consider
asking Elecraft for the gold replacement pins.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 5:27 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:

Thanks Don, Guy
appreciate yours quick response.
I found out that problem disappears when front panel warms up to 37 C
and more.
Looks like problem somewhere in FP. To clean main connector I used
Electronic Contact Cleaner. It may works not so good as Deoxit which
is not widely available in Canada. In any case to move on have to buy
Deoxit first.
Thanks again

73, Nick VE3FJ


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Jim Miller]

Thanks all. The 200v tolerance will handle the minimal energy produced by
the reed relay field collapsing.

73

jim ab3cv



On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Why do you need to look at the schematic.  The K3S specification says it
> will handle +200 volts at 5 Amps, so those are the limits at the box level.
> No matter what the device data sheet for a device might indicate, there
> can be other considerations in the K3S design (or other 'boxes') that say
> you should observe the specifications for the entire unit rather than
> trying to re-engineer from the device specifications.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 9/7/2015 7:59 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
>
>> I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. The
>> KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to be out of
>> production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a IRF630.
>>
>> If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a pair of
>> reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Nick,

Yes, but it fails when it cools again - something is not making good 
contact, and it may be residue from the cleaner.  I can't be certain of 
that, but I would get that cleaner residue off and try again.


I would suggest that you remove the cleaner residue from the contacts 
with acetone - apply it with a brush or cotton swab and immediately wipe 
the area with a clean cloth of paper towel.  Do only a few pins at a 
time, and do not let the acetone dry on the contacts or board.
You may want to mate and unmate the front panel and RF board several 
times, cleaning between each to hopefully clean some of the 'goop' out 
of the female header.


If you do not have gold pins on the connector to the front panel, 
consider asking Elecraft for the gold replacement pins.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 5:27 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:

Thanks Don, Guy
appreciate yours quick response.
I found out that problem disappears when front panel warms up to 37 C
and more.
Looks like problem somewhere in FP. To clean main connector I used
Electronic Contact Cleaner. It may works not so good as Deoxit which
is not widely available in Canada. In any case to move on have to buy 
Deoxit first.

Thanks again

73, Nick VE3FJ



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Don Wilhelm]

Why do you need to look at the schematic.  The K3S specification says it 
will handle +200 volts at 5 Amps, so those are the limits at the box level.
No matter what the device data sheet for a device might indicate, there 
can be other considerations in the K3S design (or other 'boxes') that 
say you should observe the specifications for the entire unit rather 
than trying to re-engineer from the device specifications.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 7:59 PM, Jim Miller wrote:

I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. The
KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to be out of
production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a IRF630.

If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a pair of
reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?




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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[Skip Cameron]

  set authenticate *8711w5gai*
 set digest mime
 end
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

[Fred Townsend]

Jack:
A diode is a good idea and sound engineering practice. However if you look
at the FET schematic from the manufacture's data sheet carefully you will
see that the FET has a built in diode.  That's why they make such good relay
drivers.
73
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jack
Brindle
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2015 7:49 PM
To: Jim Miller
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyout?

If it were _my_ K3 (or K3S), I would add the very inexpensive 1N5400 or
1N5407 diode across the relays and eliminate the worry. Even reed relays can
produce quite a kick, and the low cost of the diode would do wonders for
peace of mind.

This same advice goes for antenna (and other) relays switched by the KRC2.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

 
> On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:40 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:
> 
> Thanks all. The 200v tolerance will handle the minimal energy produced 
> by the reed relay field collapsing.
> 
> 73
> 
> jim ab3cv
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 8:32 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
>> Why do you need to look at the schematic.  The K3S specification says 
>> it will handle +200 volts at 5 Amps, so those are the limits at the box
level.
>> No matter what the device data sheet for a device might indicate, 
>> there can be other considerations in the K3S design (or other 
>> 'boxes') that say you should observe the specifications for the 
>> entire unit rather than trying to re-engineer from the device
specifications.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> 
>> On 9/7/2015 7:59 PM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> 
>>> I don't have schematics for my K3S but going by those for the K3. 
>>> The KeyOut line (RCA Jack) is driven by a IRF1630 which appears to 
>>> be out of production. Either than or it is a misprint and is actually a
IRF630.
>>> 
>>> If the latter it appears pretty burly. Can I assume it can drive a 
>>> pair of reed relays without suffering an inductive kick failure?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Nick Lelyak]

yes Don,
problem comes on again after radio cools down.
Pins were properly cleaned from residue, but they
are not gold plated and I black spots on some of them had left after
cleaning with contact cleaner. So I decided buy recommended cleaner first

Thanks

Nick

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 5:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Nick,
>
> Yes, but it fails when it cools again - something is not making good
> contact, and it may be residue from the cleaner.  I can't be certain of
> that, but I would get that cleaner residue off and try again.
>
> I would suggest that you remove the cleaner residue from the contacts with
> acetone - apply it with a brush or cotton swab and immediately wipe the
> area with a clean cloth of paper towel.  Do only a few pins at a time, and
> do not let the acetone dry on the contacts or board.
> You may want to mate and unmate the front panel and RF board several
> times, cleaning between each to hopefully clean some of the 'goop' out of
> the female header.
>
> If you do not have gold pins on the connector to the front panel, consider
> asking Elecraft for the gold replacement pins.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/7/2015 5:27 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:
>
> Thanks Don, Guy
> appreciate yours quick response.
> I found out that problem disappears when front panel warms up to 37 C
> and more.
> Looks like problem somewhere in FP. To clean main connector I used
> Electronic Contact Cleaner. It may works not so good as Deoxit which
> is not widely available in Canada. In any case to move on have to buy
> Deoxit first.
> Thanks again
>
> 73, Nick VE3FJ
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

When I got my K3, the spot in the backlog brought me to less than 10 away
from having the same number on my K3 as my K2. I called up and asked if I
could have it. So both K2 and K3 are #1239. Means absolutely nothing but it
seemed cute at the time.

I bought my K2 used. It was the older board and had just about nothing in
the way of options. I did ALL the A board to B board modifications and
filled it up with options. The difference before and after, particularly
with the DSP added, was rather astounding. I've done the CQ160 CW QRP with
it since and it was fine.

I kept it at 10 watts with the battery in it. It is an excellent portable
rig with the 10 W antenna tuner in it. I also have the 100 watt amp and
antenna tuner in an EC2 for base station use in SO2R with my K3.

73, Guy K2AV.

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 2:10 PM, GRANT YOUNGMAN  wrote:

> One of the nice things about Elecraft radios is that — except for personal
> bragging rights, etc. — the serial number doesn’t matter :)
>
> Grant NQ5T
>
>
> > On Sep 7, 2015, at 12:16 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:
> >
> > Nice!  That would be binary for 23.  :-)
> >
> > Nothing special about my s/n - 10276.
>
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[Elecraft] Problem with K3S build

[Ken Bandy, KJ9B]

Hello all.  Last week I received my K3S/100 (S/N 10270) kit, including KDVR3
recorder, KRX3A second receiver, and .5ppm TCXO.  After getting the kit
assembled per the assembly manual, I got to the checkout phase prior to
installing the 100W amp, and second receiver.  The unit powered on as it
should, however I got no "ERR PLL" message on the display as it stated I
probably would.  When I got to the Synthesizer Check, I was able to get into
"TECH MD" mode, and turned it "ON".  However, I was not able to get to
"SYN1" to display in the VFO B area.  The bottom part of the display would
start with what I assume was supposed to be the time (however it was in the
area of 37:20:20??), then as I rotated the VFO B knob, it would step through
what I assume was the date, then "0.00", "13.6V", "1.05A", "FP 28C", "PLL1
2.9" (ranging up to "PLL1 3.2"), "PLL2*0.0", "AFV 0", and finally "0.0 dBV".
This is all I can get.

 

Of course, with this being a holiday, contacting Elecraft wouldn't work, so
I thought I would throw this out here to see if anyone had any ideas as to
what might be wrong with my unit.

 

Thanks, and I hope everyone is having a great Labor Day (where applicable).

 

73,

Ken, KJ9B

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[Phil Anderson]

Perhaps they should put serial numbers in hexadecimal format :)
Then we could have numbers (names) like. Example, your  no could be BEEF

73 Unc Phil, W0XI


Jim Lowman 
Monday, September 07, 2015 12:16 PM
Nice!  That would be binary for 23.  :-)

Nothing special about my s/n - 10276.
I'm too lazy at the moment to calculate what that is in octal.

73 de Jim - AD6CW



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Ian 
Sunday, September 06, 2015 9:21 PM
My K3S is s/n 10111.
73, Ian N8IK


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
Wheeler
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 12:03
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder what qualifies as 
"cool".

Maybe 11011?

Phil W7OX

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Phil Wheeler 
Sunday, September 06, 2015 11:03 AM
Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder what qualifies as 
"cool".  Maybe 11011?


Phil W7OX



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George Dubovsky 
Sunday, September 06, 2015 8:26 AM
Well, I knew I was a big gun when I got my first K3 - a pair of 
45's... ;-)


73,

geo - n4ua (s/n 4545)


Phil Anderson 
Sunday, September 06, 2015 8:20 AM
Are you looking for 007 or what? Perhaps 7373?

What would a cool number be?




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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Or that perhaps Eric was concerned with an unsupportable failure rate, as
in where *most* people fail, is more like it. That is why you will see very
little of a kit where you solder SMD parts. Fine activity for those few who
can do it well, but considering that kind of skill as "common" is not just
unrealistic, but more like silly.

Beyond skills, there is the problem of how SMD parts are made and
distributed. Particularly on a tape reel containing 1000's of the same part
with precision spacing on the tape, meant to feed a machine. Bazillions of
SMD parts are made, distributed and fabricated on boards with these methods
where the first handle-able output is a fully populated and soldered PC
board.

That's just a reality these days, and discrete part kits are now an odd,
tiny, tiny, niche in the universe of all electronic that goes on.

If you really want a discrete parts kit experience of some substance, best
buy yourself a K2 kit, before Elecraft decides to drop it.

73, Guy K2AV

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 4:16 PM, Bill Frantz  wrote:

> I have built several non-Elecraft kits which included some SMD parts. I
> just followed the instructions and things came out fine. The kits were fun
> to build.
>
> The argument I gave Eric at a ham convention involved getting young people
> interested in and experienced with construction. I think this goal is
> important for both the hobby and the economic viability of the country. The
> argument didn't fly with Eric. I think he was concerned with support costs.
>
> 73 Bill AE6JV
>
> On 9/7/15 at 11:11 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Doug Person via
> Elecraft) wrote:
>
> If an SMD kit were made with a proper mask for solder paste, it wouldn't
>> be bad at all.  I think it would be "fun".
>>
>
> ---
> Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
> 408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is *not* the
> www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[Gary]

Or misbehavin for when your fingers do stuff your brain did not want and you 
can blame something else. :-)

-Original Message-
From: "Phil Anderson" 
Sent: ‎8/‎09/‎2015 6:57 AM
To: "Jim Lowman" 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

Perhaps they should put serial numbers in hexadecimal format :)
Then we could have numbers (names) like. Example, your  no could be BEEF

73 Unc Phil, W0XI

> Jim Lowman 
> Monday, September 07, 2015 12:16 PM
> Nice!  That would be binary for 23.  :-)
>
> Nothing special about my s/n - 10276.
> I'm too lazy at the moment to calculate what that is in octal.
>
> 73 de Jim - AD6CW
>
>
>
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> Ian 
> Sunday, September 06, 2015 9:21 PM
> My K3S is s/n 10111.
> 73, Ian N8IK
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil
> Wheeler
> Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 12:03
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!
>
> Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder what qualifies as 
> "cool".
> Maybe 11011?
>
> Phil W7OX
>
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>
> Phil Wheeler 
> Sunday, September 06, 2015 11:03 AM
> Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder what qualifies as 
> "cool".  Maybe 11011?
>
> Phil W7OX
>
>
>
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>
> George Dubovsky 
> Sunday, September 06, 2015 8:26 AM
> Well, I knew I was a big gun when I got my first K3 - a pair of 
> 45's... ;-)
>
> 73,
>
> geo - n4ua (s/n 4545)
>
>
> Phil Anderson 
> Sunday, September 06, 2015 8:20 AM
> Are you looking for 007 or what? Perhaps 7373?
>
> What would a cool number be?
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 shuts down

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

What is your serial number?

Guy K2AV

On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 1:57 PM, Stephen  wrote:

> My K3 has worked flawlessly since I got it over a year ago, until
> yesterday. It now shuts down if the power is advanced over 11 watts (pa
> in). The power supply seems to be ok as it runs my TS 850 at 100 watts
> without complaint. I have checked and swapped cables between the K3 and my
> dummy load. I did a reconfiguration. The K3 provides no error messages, but
> the display dims and flickers just before it shuts down.
> Am I missing something obvious?
> Steve, K5SI
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with K3S build

[Matt Zilmer]

The fact that you're seeing PLL1 and PLL2 indicate that the firmware
thinks the older KSYN3 is installed.  If it has the KSYN3A, SYN1 and
SYN2 would show in the VFO B window, instead.

With the K3S's top cover removed, do you see the KSYN3A's green LED on
solid?  It's visible from the top side.

Make sure the KSYN3A is properly seated on the RF board connector.

73,
matt
W6NIA


On Mon, 7 Sep 2015 16:51:45 -0400, you wrote:

>Hello all.  Last week I received my K3S/100 (S/N 10270) kit, including KDVR3
>recorder, KRX3A second receiver, and .5ppm TCXO.  After getting the kit
>assembled per the assembly manual, I got to the checkout phase prior to
>installing the 100W amp, and second receiver.  The unit powered on as it
>should, however I got no "ERR PLL" message on the display as it stated I
>probably would.  When I got to the Synthesizer Check, I was able to get into
>"TECH MD" mode, and turned it "ON".  However, I was not able to get to
>"SYN1" to display in the VFO B area.  The bottom part of the display would
>start with what I assume was supposed to be the time (however it was in the
>area of 37:20:20??), then as I rotated the VFO B knob, it would step through
>what I assume was the date, then "0.00", "13.6V", "1.05A", "FP 28C", "PLL1
>2.9" (ranging up to "PLL1 3.2"), "PLL2*0.0", "AFV 0", and finally "0.0 dBV".
>This is all I can get.
>
> 
>
>Of course, with this being a holiday, contacting Elecraft wouldn't work, so
>I thought I would throw this out here to see if anyone had any ideas as to
>what might be wrong with my unit.
>
> 
>
>Thanks, and I hope everyone is having a great Labor Day (where applicable).
>
> 
>
>73,
>
>Ken, KJ9B
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Nick Lelyak]

Thanks Don, Guy
appreciate yours quick response.
I found out that problem disappears when front panel warms up to 37 C
and more.
Looks like problem somewhere in FP. To clean main connector I used
Electronic Contact Cleaner. It may works not so good as Deoxit which
is not widely available in Canada. In any case to move on have to buy
Deoxit first.
Thanks again

73, Nick VE3FJ


On Mon, Sep 7, 2015 at 4:00 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Nick,
>
> I don't think it is related to the synthesizer, but go through the other
> things you did (cleaning the Front Panel connector and some other boards) -
> you should unplug those, and depending on how you "cleaned" the connectors,
> wipe them carefully and reassemble.
> Work on each connector one at a time and test again after each one.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 9/7/2015 2:41 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> have replaced old synthesizer in my K3 for new KSYN3A and have problem
>> with
>> this modification.
>> Changing frequency by VFO A or VFO B several kHz up or down switches mode
>> to reverse
>> (CW to CWR, USB to LSB), frequency on display jumps 1 mHz lower ( ex.
>> 14015.00 > 13015.00,
>> 1830.00 > 0830.00 etc.) and band pass filters relay click can be heard at
>> the same moment.
>> After switching 1 mHz lower rotating VFO A frequency changes as it should,
>> nothing clicking, mode is not reversing but radio is far away from amateur
>> band.
>> After keeping radio an hour or so on and warming it up problem disappears.
>> K3 has no sub receiver installed. Firmware 5.33
>> Front panel connector and some other on boards around synthesizer were
>> cleaned.
>> When I put original synthesizer back problem didn't disappear and was
>> exactly same as with new unit.
>> I would appreciate any ideas to locate and fix this problem.
>> Thank you in advance
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!

[Al Gulseth]

Leave it to "Unc Phil" to think of that one HI HI!!

73, Al

On Mon September 7 2015 3:56:42 pm Phil Anderson wrote:
> Perhaps they should put serial numbers in hexadecimal format :)
> Then we could have numbers (names) like. Example, your  no could be BEEF
>
> 73 Unc Phil, W0XI
>
> > Jim Lowman 
> > Monday, September 07, 2015 12:16 PM
> > Nice!  That would be binary for 23.  :-)
> >
> > Nothing special about my s/n - 10276.
> > I'm too lazy at the moment to calculate what that is in octal.
> >
> > 73 de Jim - AD6CW
> >
> >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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> > Message delivered to aldenmcduf...@sunflower.com
> >
> > Ian 
> > Sunday, September 06, 2015 9:21 PM
> > My K3S is s/n 10111.
> > 73, Ian N8IK
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
> > Phil Wheeler
> > Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2015 12:03
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Ordered Today!!
> >
> > Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder what qualifies as
> > "cool".
> > Maybe 11011?
> >
> > Phil W7OX
> >
> > __
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> > Message
> > delivered to ik7...@verizon.net
> > -
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > Version: 2015.0.6125 / Virus Database: 4409/10590 - Release Date:
> > 09/07/15
> >
> > __
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> > Message delivered to aldenmcduf...@sunflower.com
> >
> > Phil Wheeler 
> > Sunday, September 06, 2015 11:03 AM
> > Given K3S serial numbers are five digits, I wonder what qualifies as
> > "cool".  Maybe 11011?
> >
> > Phil W7OX
> >
> >
> >
> > __
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> >
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> > Message delivered to aldenmcduf...@sunflower.com
> >
> > George Dubovsky 
> > Sunday, September 06, 2015 8:26 AM
> > Well, I knew I was a big gun when I got my first K3 - a pair of
> > 45's... ;-)
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > geo - n4ua (s/n 4545)
> >
> >
> > Phil Anderson 
> > Sunday, September 06, 2015 8:20 AM
> > Are you looking for 007 or what? Perhaps 7373?
> >
> > What would a cool number be?
>
> ---
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Mac People: KUSB Issue

[David Ahrendts]

What can ya do to keep your fabulous Mac OS X device (in my case a Mac Mini) 
from kicking off the KUSB when it goes to sleep? Trying to keep MacLogger 
connected to the K3S via it’s KUSB for several days at a time (like Labor Day 
weekend). It appears to get kicked off for inactivity as a power drain which 
requires (I know, poor me!) re-starting the Mac Mini to re-initialize the USB 
port with the KUSB. Not a big thing, but maybe there is a way to refresh the 
USB devices connected (a Mac issue). Anyone?


David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   




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Re: [Elecraft] (OT) Touchscreens

[Al Lorona]

Oh! There's the P7... calling CQ... and no one is coming back to him!! I'll be 
the first to work him... I can't believe this... Let me just use my cool 
touchscreen... I move his signal with my index finger into the passband... and 
then throw my call out... wait... what the... Oh no, the itty-bitty tip of my 
pinky accidentally touched the macro button to switch to the beam on 2 meters, 
shut off the antenna tuner, and reduce power to one watt... oh no, OH NO!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Nick,

I don't think it is related to the synthesizer, but go through the other 
things you did (cleaning the Front Panel connector and some other 
boards) - you should unplug those, and depending on how you "cleaned" 
the connectors, wipe them carefully and reassemble.

Work on each connector one at a time and test again after each one.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2015 2:41 PM, Nick Lelyak wrote:

Hi,
have replaced old synthesizer in my K3 for new KSYN3A and have problem with
this modification.
Changing frequency by VFO A or VFO B several kHz up or down switches mode
to reverse
(CW to CWR, USB to LSB), frequency on display jumps 1 mHz lower ( ex.
14015.00 > 13015.00,
1830.00 > 0830.00 etc.) and band pass filters relay click can be heard at
the same moment.
After switching 1 mHz lower rotating VFO A frequency changes as it should,
nothing clicking, mode is not reversing but radio is far away from amateur
band.
After keeping radio an hour or so on and warming it up problem disappears.
K3 has no sub receiver installed. Firmware 5.33
Front panel connector and some other on boards around synthesizer were
cleaned.
When I put original synthesizer back problem didn't disappear and was
exactly same as with new unit.
I would appreciate any ideas to locate and fix this problem.
Thank you in advance




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Re: [Elecraft] FW: K2 Options

[Bill Frantz]

I have built several non-Elecraft kits which included some SMD 
parts. I just followed the instructions and things came out 
fine. The kits were fun to build.


The argument I gave Eric at a ham convention involved getting 
young people interested in and experienced with construction. I 
think this goal is important for both the hobby and the economic 
viability of the country. The argument didn't fly with Eric. I 
think he was concerned with support costs.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 9/7/15 at 11:11 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Doug Person via 
Elecraft) wrote:


If an SMD kit were made with a proper mask for solder paste, it 
wouldn't be bad at all.  I think it would be "fun".


---
Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is 
*not* the

www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

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[Elecraft] KSYN3A mod problem

[Nick Lelyak]

Hi,
have replaced old synthesizer in my K3 for new KSYN3A and have problem with
this modification.
Changing frequency by VFO A or VFO B several kHz up or down switches mode
to reverse
(CW to CWR, USB to LSB), frequency on display jumps 1 mHz lower ( ex.
14015.00 > 13015.00,
1830.00 > 0830.00 etc.) and band pass filters relay click can be heard at
the same moment.
After switching 1 mHz lower rotating VFO A frequency changes as it should,
nothing clicking, mode is not reversing but radio is far away from amateur
band.
After keeping radio an hour or so on and warming it up problem disappears.
K3 has no sub receiver installed. Firmware 5.33
Front panel connector and some other on boards around synthesizer were
cleaned.
When I put original synthesizer back problem didn't disappear and was
exactly same as with new unit.
I would appreciate any ideas to locate and fix this problem.
Thank you in advance

Nick, VE3FJ
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