[Elecraft] Data interface (WSJT-X)

[Hotel Kilo Alpha Delta Japon]

Hello all,

I want to know if someone here is using the DigiMaster Pro and If I could
get some advice on how to do the right audio cables myself so to be able to
use it with WSJT-X. I've got already the CAT one. This is the interface:

http://www.g4zlp.co.uk/unified/DM_PRO_PLUS_complete.shtml

Is there a simple way to workout the Tx (mic out) from my laptop into the
KX3? I can already control the radio via CAT but i'm kind of lost as on
what to do with sound cables.

TIA
HK4ADJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Sunday Net on 40 meters

[kev...@coho.net]

When you hear the others sending their call or "hail" sign just send 
yours.  Usually I'll get alerted to you by the other ops. Today I was 
getting comments about how folks were hearing which did not match what I 
was hearing.  I was in the middle of a torrent of rain from my trees.  
The sun was hitting the new fallen snow and melting it.   My normally 
strong path to the Anchorage, AK area was not there as well the one into 
MI.  Forty meters usually captures all of WA and some of OR.  I did work 
one Portland, OR station which is normally out of my reach because of 
the mountains in the way.


So send your call sign when you hear the others send theirs. Then they 
will feel guilty for not telling me if they read more of these email 
messages.  Guilt worked for my parents I think this is the perfect spot 
to attempt it :)


73 & please keep calling,

   Kevin.  KD5ONS

   Net Control Operator 5th Class


On 2/26/2017 5:29 PM, Marvin Wheeler wrote:

I listened to check in to the 40 meter net. I could faintly hear the net
control station but could not copy his transmissions here in Washington
State.  Most California stations were at least 5 7 or 5 9 but I didn't hear
anyone ask for relays to check in.

  


Marv

KG7V



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Chuck Stover via Elecraft]

Yes Don.  They sent me 4 trimmers that look identical to c22 on the control 
board.
No red body trimmers.


  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Chuck Stover ; Robert Kasten ; 
"elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 7:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
   
Chuck,

WHAT??  Did you have 4 ceramic trimmers with red dots on the side?  The 
same as that used for C22 on the Control Board?  Those normally will not 
work for the 12 meter bandpass at C44 and C46.

The large yellow plastic trimmers should go at C32 and C34, and the 
ceramic trimmers with the red dot should be at C21 and C23.
There is not a great deal of difference between the ceramic trimmers 
with the red dots and the plastic trimmers with the yellow bodies, but 
in extreme cases, the difference is enough to cause a problem tuning 14 
MHz and 18MHz.
You should have had 2 red bodied trimmers similar to the ones with the 
yellow body, and those would go into the C44 and C46 positions.

If the trimmer capacitor selection has been changed, then the K2 errata 
page must change to keep up with it, and it apparently has not.

I will contact the K2 product manager to see what is going on.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 6:52 PM, Chuck Stover wrote:
> Bob, Don,
>
> I just finished up a K2 as well.  The trimmers I got didn't match the 
> description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I 
> was looking at.
>
> I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff 
> going on to accurately measure min and max.
>
> I talked to Gary in Watsonville.  Here's what we summized.  The larger 
> bodied yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.  The remaining 4 smaller 
> bodied white with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.
>
> It works.  I get good output on all bands.
>
> Don't know if this helps or not.
>
> Chuck K4QS
>



   
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Re: [Elecraft] Sunday Net on 40 meters

[Brian Hunt]

Usually if I hear a caller that Kevin doesn't I'll QSP. Tonight we had a couple 
of tuner-uppers and a CQer on frequency that made it tough. Keep trying. 

73,
Brian, K0DTJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Sunday Net on 40 meters

[David Koch]

Net control, KD5ONS in Oregon, was S5-S7 with fast QSB in the Dallas, TX 
area.  Had pretty good check in tonight.


Dave, W8OV


On 2017-02-26 19:29, Marvin Wheeler wrote:

I listened to check in to the 40 meter net. I could faintly hear the net
control station but could not copy his transmissions here in Washington
State.  Most California stations were at least 5 7 or 5 9 but I didn't hear
anyone ask for relays to check in.

  


Marv

KG7V



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Don Wilhelm]

Harry,

The yellow ones do not go reliably down to 6.8pF, many are limited to a 
minimum capacity of about 15pF.


The capacity for the 12 meter bandpass needs to be in the 11 to 12pF 
range or less.


Yes, I have measured several of them.  I went through this as the tester 
for Elecraft when the wide range blue trimmers were no longer available.


The current ceramic trimmers (white with red dot) do not reliably go 
down to 5pF - the minimum is more like 12 to 15.  The old blue trimmer 
capacitors had a reliable range of 5 to 40pF and were ideal, but alas, 
they are not longer available.


This thing with trimmer capacitors is turning into a 'bag of worms'.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 7:50 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:


I would think it would be best to use:

The Yellow (ones 6.8-45pf) at  C44 & C46 (10/12 m) since the schematic 
calls for 5-30pf


The White with Red dot ceramic trimmers (8-50 pf) at C19 and C23 
(20/30m) since the schematic calls for a 50pf trimmer


C32 and C34 should also be 5-30 as per the schematic, so a better 
substitute would seem to be to use the Yellow 6.8-45 pf trimmers









*From:* Chuck Stover via Elecraft 
*To:* "donw...@embarqmail.com" ; Robert Kasten 
; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 


*Sent:* Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:52 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

Bob, Don,
I just finished up a K2 as well.  The trimmers I got didn't match the 
description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I 
was looking at.
I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff 
going on to accurately measure min and max.
I talked to Gary in Watsonville.  Here's what we summized.  The larger 
bodied yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.  The remaining 4 smaller 
bodied white with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.

It works.  I get good output on all bands.
Don't know if this helps or not.
Chuck K4QS


  From: Don Wilhelm >
To: Robert Kasten >; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 


Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

Bob,

You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.

Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace
C44 and C46.  The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough
minimum capacitance.  The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were
red the last time I saw them.

The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.  They
should measure about 20pF to 45pF.

If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well,
ask for replacements for C32 and C34.  The part number is E540002 and
they have yellow bodies.

See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6
months or so.  I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44
and C46.  Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's
specs for capacitance range and were dropped.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
> just like old times.
>
> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more 
than .5W

> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components 
C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47

> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m Alignment

[Wayne Burdick]

Ted,

I thought the errata sheet was up to date. We'll look into this tomorrow. 

Thanks,
Wayne
N6KR


http://www.elecraft.com

> On Feb 26, 2017, at 17:18, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
> I went through the same business with my first K2, apparently during the 
> switch-over of trimmer suppliers.  None of the colors matched what they were 
> supposed to be and the errata sheets didn’t help at all.  Don Wilhelm and 
> Gary Surrency both went out of their way to help me sort it out.  
> 
> Although my DVM is theoretically able to measure capacitance, the long leads 
> make it essentially useless.  So when I ordered my second K2, while I was 
> waiting for it to arrive I put together a very inexpensive capacitance tester 
> that sold for about $10.  It has PCB mounted test points that work with no 
> leads at all, and the spacing is perfect for these little trimmers.  I then 
> tested what I received in the second K2 kit before mounting them, found that 
> there were still questions, and once again Elecraft came almost instantly to 
> my aid.  But at least I didn’t have to undo anything, or puzzle about why 
> something wasn’t working right.
> 
> Sounds as if the K2 trimmer supply is a recurring problem.  Using the 
> capacitance tester before mounting them saved me a great deal of trouble.  
> Having bought it, I now test EVERY cap before installing.  Takes a while, but 
> it’s reassuring.
> 
> There are lots of inexpensive testers available on the ‘Net.  I think this is 
> the one I bought:  http://www.nkcelectronics.com/capacitance-meter-kit.html.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
>--
> 
>Message: 24
>Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 23:52:06 + (UTC)
>From: Chuck Stover 
>To: "donw...@embarqmail.com" ,Robert Kasten
>,"elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
>
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
>Message-ID: <1207157025.1459419.1488153126...@mail.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
>Bob, Don,
>I just finished up a K2 as well.? The trimmers I got didn't match the 
> description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I was 
> looking at.
>I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff 
> going on to accurately measure min and max.
>I talked to Gary in Watsonville.? Here's what we summized.? The larger 
> bodied yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.? The remaining 4 smaller bodied 
> white with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.
>It works.? I get good output on all bands.
>Don't know if this helps or not.
>Chuck K4QS
> 
> 
>  From: Don Wilhelm 
> To: Robert Kasten ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:10 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
> 
>Bob,
> 
>You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.
> 
>Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace 
>C44 and C46.? The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough 
>minimum capacitance.? The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were 
>red the last time I saw them.
> 
>The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.? They 
>should measure about 20pF to 45pF.
> 
>If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well, 
>ask for replacements for C32 and C34.? The part number is E540002 and 
>they have yellow bodies.
> 
>See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
>Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6 
>months or so.? I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 
>and C46.? Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's 
>specs for capacitance range and were dropped.
> 
>73,
>Don W3FPR
> 
>>On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
>> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
>> just like old times.
>> 
>> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
>> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
>> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
>> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
>> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Sunday Net on 40 meters

[Douglas Hudson]

Ditto Marv,

Same report here in Bremerton, 15 miles W of Seattle.

Doug, K7CUU

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Marvin 
Wheeler
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 5:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Sunday Net on 40 meters

I listened to check in to the 40 meter net. I could faintly hear the net 
control station but could not copy his transmissions here in Washington State.  
Most California stations were at least 5 7 or 5 9 but I didn't hear anyone ask 
for relays to check in.

 

Marv

KG7V

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[Elecraft] Sunday Net on 40 meters

[Marvin Wheeler]

I listened to check in to the 40 meter net. I could faintly hear the net
control station but could not copy his transmissions here in Washington
State.  Most California stations were at least 5 7 or 5 9 but I didn't hear
anyone ask for relays to check in.

 

Marv

KG7V



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[Elecraft] K2 12m Alignment

[Dauer, Edward]

I went through the same business with my first K2, apparently during the 
switch-over of trimmer suppliers.  None of the colors matched what they were 
supposed to be and the errata sheets didn’t help at all.  Don Wilhelm and Gary 
Surrency both went out of their way to help me sort it out.  

Although my DVM is theoretically able to measure capacitance, the long leads 
make it essentially useless.  So when I ordered my second K2, while I was 
waiting for it to arrive I put together a very inexpensive capacitance tester 
that sold for about $10.  It has PCB mounted test points that work with no 
leads at all, and the spacing is perfect for these little trimmers.  I then 
tested what I received in the second K2 kit before mounting them, found that 
there were still questions, and once again Elecraft came almost instantly to my 
aid.  But at least I didn’t have to undo anything, or puzzle about why 
something wasn’t working right.

Sounds as if the K2 trimmer supply is a recurring problem.  Using the 
capacitance tester before mounting them saved me a great deal of trouble.  
Having bought it, I now test EVERY cap before installing.  Takes a while, but 
it’s reassuring.

There are lots of inexpensive testers available on the ‘Net.  I think this is 
the one I bought:  http://www.nkcelectronics.com/capacitance-meter-kit.html.

Ted, KN1CBR


--

Message: 24
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 23:52:06 + (UTC)
From: Chuck Stover 
To: "donw...@embarqmail.com" ,  Robert Kasten
, "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
Message-ID: <1207157025.1459419.1488153126...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Bob, Don,
I just finished up a K2 as well.? The trimmers I got didn't match the 
description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I was looking 
at.
I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff 
going on to accurately measure min and max.
I talked to Gary in Watsonville.? Here's what we summized.? The larger 
bodied yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.? The remaining 4 smaller bodied 
white with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.
It works.? I get good output on all bands.
Don't know if this helps or not.
Chuck K4QS


  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Robert Kasten ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
   
Bob,

You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.

Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace 
C44 and C46.? The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough 
minimum capacitance.? The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were 
red the last time I saw them.

The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.? They 
should measure about 20pF to 45pF.

If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well, 
ask for replacements for C32 and C34.? The part number is E540002 and 
they have yellow bodies.

See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6 
months or so.? I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 
and C46.? Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's 
specs for capacitance range and were dropped.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
> just like old times.
>
> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

Just tried with an old dynamic Kenwood mic.
Setting K3 mic to "rP.L" gave same result: no output.

Receive and eveything else works fine.

P-T




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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I would think it would be best to use:
The Yellow (ones 6.8-45pf) at  C44 & C46 (10/12 m) since the schematic calls 
for 5-30pf
The White with Red dot ceramic trimmers (8-50 pf) at C19 and C23 (20/30m) since 
the schematic calls for a 50pf trimmer

C32 and C34 should also be 5-30 as per the schematic, so a better substitute 
would seem to be to use the Yellow 6.8-45 pf trimmers






  From: Chuck Stover via Elecraft 
 To: "donw...@embarqmail.com" ; Robert Kasten 
; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:52 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
   
Bob, Don,
I just finished up a K2 as well.  The trimmers I got didn't match the 
description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I was looking 
at.
I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff going on 
to accurately measure min and max.
I talked to Gary in Watsonville.  Here's what we summized.  The larger bodied 
yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.  The remaining 4 smaller bodied white 
with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.
It works.  I get good output on all bands.
Don't know if this helps or not.
Chuck K4QS


      From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Robert Kasten ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
  
Bob,

You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.

Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace 
C44 and C46.  The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough 
minimum capacitance.  The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were 
red the last time I saw them.

The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.  They 
should measure about 20pF to 45pF.

If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well, 
ask for replacements for C32 and C34.  The part number is E540002 and 
they have yellow bodies.

See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6 
months or so.  I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 
and C46.  Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's 
specs for capacitance range and were dropped.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
> just like old times.
>
> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Don Wilhelm]

Chuck,

WHAT??  Did you have 4 ceramic trimmers with red dots on the side?  The 
same as that used for C22 on the Control Board?  Those normally will not 
work for the 12 meter bandpass at C44 and C46.


The large yellow plastic trimmers should go at C32 and C34, and the 
ceramic trimmers with the red dot should be at C21 and C23.
There is not a great deal of difference between the ceramic trimmers 
with the red dots and the plastic trimmers with the yellow bodies, but 
in extreme cases, the difference is enough to cause a problem tuning 14 
MHz and 18MHz.
You should have had 2 red bodied trimmers similar to the ones with the 
yellow body, and those would go into the C44 and C46 positions.


If the trimmer capacitor selection has been changed, then the K2 errata 
page must change to keep up with it, and it apparently has not.


I will contact the K2 product manager to see what is going on.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 6:52 PM, Chuck Stover wrote:

Bob, Don,

I just finished up a K2 as well.  The trimmers I got didn't match the 
description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I 
was looking at.


I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff 
going on to accurately measure min and max.


I talked to Gary in Watsonville.  Here's what we summized.  The larger 
bodied yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.  The remaining 4 smaller 
bodied white with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.


It works.  I get good output on all bands.

Don't know if this helps or not.

Chuck K4QS



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

They are no longer giving out the Red Bodied ones

They not give you 2 more ceramic 8-50 pf ones



  From: Robert Kasten 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
   
Indeed, I have the brown trimmers at C32/C34 as well as C44/C46. The latest
errata sheet from Nov 2016 says C44/C46 should have red bodies and be about
25pf. The ones I have do not go below low-30pf. Thanks for the help, Don!
Bob

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 5:10 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Bob,
>
> You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.
>
> Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace
> C44 and C46.  The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough
> minimum capacitance.  The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were red
> the last time I saw them.
>
> The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.  They
> should measure about 20pF to 45pF.
>
> If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well,
> ask for replacements for C32 and C34.  The part number is E540002 and they
> have yellow bodies.
>
> See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
> Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6
> months or so.  I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 and
> C46.  Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's specs for
> capacitance range and were dropped.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
>
>> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
>> just like old times.
>>
>> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
>> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
>> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
>> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
>> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Recording Line Out on the K3

[Dave Fugleberg]

Thanks Bob, that was it (I was at MCU 5.50). Updated to latest and changed
LIN OUT back to NOR, and it works exactly how I wanted.  I also found a
powerpoint presentation out on the web that you did for CTU on the subject
of recording contest audio - very informative.  Thanks!  Guess I need to
make more of an effort to watch for firmware updates- this radio keeps
getting better and better.
73 de W0ZF

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 12:33 AM, Bob Wilson, N6TV  wrote:

> The problem of no TX Monitor audio on LINE OUT was fixed last July, in MCU
> firmware 5.51, DSP 2.88.
>
> What version of firmware is your K3 running?
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>
>
> On Feb 25, 2017 7:50 PM, "Dave Fugleberg"  wrote:
>
> I have Line Out of the K3 connected to Line In on one of my soundcards. The
> only way I've been able to record both sides of the QSO is to set the K3
> Line Out to PHONES and turn up the MONitor to make it relatively equal in
> volume to the received audio. This works, but it's annoying to have the
> monitor that high, plus it means the Line Out level follows the AF Gain
> control rather than being fixed level.
>
> Is there any way to get both transmit and receive audio mixed on Line Out
> at a fixed (and relatively similar) level?
>
> 73 de W0ZF
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Chuck Stover via Elecraft]

Bob, Don,
I just finished up a K2 as well.  The trimmers I got didn't match the 
description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I was looking 
at.
I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff going on 
to accurately measure min and max.
I talked to Gary in Watsonville.  Here's what we summized.  The larger bodied 
yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.  The remaining 4 smaller bodied white 
with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.
It works.  I get good output on all bands.
Don't know if this helps or not.
Chuck K4QS


  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Robert Kasten ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
   
Bob,

You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.

Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace 
C44 and C46.  The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough 
minimum capacitance.  The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were 
red the last time I saw them.

The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.  They 
should measure about 20pF to 45pF.

If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well, 
ask for replacements for C32 and C34.  The part number is E540002 and 
they have yellow bodies.

See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6 
months or so.  I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 
and C46.  Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's 
specs for capacitance range and were dropped.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
> just like old times.
>
> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Suggested External Battery

[Jeff Herr]

i see people confusing Lipo with LifePo4

two different chemistries.

would you not agree that one benefit of Lipo 14.6 batteries is their voltage
being above the 13.8 spec?



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2016 17:26 PM
To: TFJM; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Suggested External Battery

Tom,

Consider cost vs. need and your intended power level.
If you are backpacking in, then weight is a consideration, so LiPo and
LiFePO4 batteries are to be preferred.  IMHO, LiFePo4 are preferred because
they have terminal voltages similar to NiMH ot NiCad batteries and the
charging requirements are not as severe (and safety oriented) as LiPo.  LiPo
batteries need special chargers to insure safety during charging.

If you don't mind the weight of lead acid batteries, then the low cost
alternative is a "lawn mower" battery, or if spillage of the electrolyte
might be a problem, look at AGM or SLA batteries. That is old battery
technology, but it works and is the lesser expensive solution.

An almost zero cost solution is to run heavy gauge wires from your vehicle
battery.  Just make sure there is enough energy left to start your vehicle
when you are ready to break camp.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/25/2016 7:57 PM, TFJM via Elecraft wrote:
> I'm sure this question has been asked many times. I recently bought a 
> KX3 so I'm new at QRP and I'm about to head to a camp ground in a few 
> weeks and go portable. Besides using internal batteries, what longer 
> lasting external batteries are recommended? I hear of Lipo batteries and a
slew of others.
> I'm just trying to navigate though the maze of options.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Robert Kasten]

Indeed, I have the brown trimmers at C32/C34 as well as C44/C46. The latest
errata sheet from Nov 2016 says C44/C46 should have red bodies and be about
25pf. The ones I have do not go below low-30pf. Thanks for the help, Don!
Bob

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 5:10 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Bob,
>
> You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.
>
> Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace
> C44 and C46.  The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough
> minimum capacitance.  The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were red
> the last time I saw them.
>
> The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.  They
> should measure about 20pF to 45pF.
>
> If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well,
> ask for replacements for C32 and C34.  The part number is E540002 and they
> have yellow bodies.
>
> See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
> Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6
> months or so.  I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 and
> C46.  Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's specs for
> capacitance range and were dropped.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
>
>> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
>> just like old times.
>>
>> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
>> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
>> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
>> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
>> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.

Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace 
C44 and C46.  The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough 
minimum capacitance.  The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were 
red the last time I saw them.


The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.  They 
should measure about 20pF to 45pF.


If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well, 
ask for replacements for C32 and C34.  The part number is E540002 and 
they have yellow bodies.


See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6 
months or so.  I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 
and C46.  Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's 
specs for capacitance range and were dropped.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:

Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
just like old times.

All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Mike Cox  wrote:

> If CONFIG:PB CTRL is set to .01 in CW mode, then, per the function
> description in the K3 Owners Manual (pp. 62 in Manual Revision A1), you
> will be limited to the Shift/Width controls mode only. Change PB CTRL to
> .05 and you will also enable LO/HI cut on the controls.


The K3 Owners Manual is up to revision D10 dated 8/24/2011 with errata
D10-8 dated 3/31/2015.

Seeing as both are PDF's and fully searchable, probably need to be current
as opposed to something dated back in 2007. Only 8 years out of date.

However, the warning you quoted is still in the newer text.

For myself, not being able to do 10 Hz shift is an issue for CW and the
very steep skirts using a roofing filter with DSP width set to the roofer
width. If the guy up or down gets a little too loud, just a dime Hz shift
or two or three will drop him right out. 50 Hz is way too coarse for that.

Also for normal QSK (not the one which turns on the display +), which *is*
very good with the new synthesizers, I do NOT lose RIT or XIT in QSK. With
the new syns regular QSK is more than adequate to hear between dits or
letters at 30 wpm on the RX antenna.

This is in spite of my having the Microham box and it's built-in WinKey
functions set for unbroken PTT assert to the Alpha 8410 on the TX antenna
until a word space has gone by. The K3 can't do RX/TX one way and it's PTT
out another.

So what I have is the very best of the fast and the very best of the slow
at the same time. I only hear in the right ear on the subRX when the 8410
is keyed, and I hear in between the dits. This allows me to hear when
someone calls late, just a bit after I start calling CQ again on a run.

Best of the fast.

But even though the K3 is cycling TX/RX very fast the 8410 is not banging
the vacuum relay to death trying to follow 30 wpm dits. 30 wpm QSK *does*
significantly shorten relay time to failure. Contesting, I've worn some out
in less than a year.

So to save me that, the Microham box keys up the amp with it's PTT before
it starts the key sequence to the K3. That's because *both* the paddle and
the PC logging program stream go to the Microham box which in turn keys the
K3. I also have inverted the Microham PTT keying to control 12 volt supply
to protect some sensitive stuff, better off not powered during TX.

Best of the slow.

Gotta say, if you don't have the new syns in your K3, that is an absolute
top-run improvement.

73, Guy K2AV
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[Elecraft] K2 12m alignment

[Robert Kasten]

Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
just like old times.

All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.

I measured RF voltages. All transmit stages were fine up until the bandpass
filter. Zero RF volts at W6 and the anode side of D1. One thing I have seen
on keydown is the RF on both sides of C48 jumping to about .4V RF, then
right back to 0. Cap C42, on the other hand shows well over 1V RF on
keydown.

Because 10m is aligning/peaking totally fine and putting out 14W, and the
caps and inductors test good, at this point should I assume K7 isn't
swithing? I am not really sure of the best way to test K7 in place. Any
tips would be most appreciated. :-)

Bob - K0LAK
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Re: [Elecraft] T-1 tuner stopped tuning

[Mark Petiford via Elecraft]

 Re:  " I have excactly (sic)  the same problem with the big MFJ-927 tuner and 
the preprogrammed chip replacement from the company made no cure"

No, wait, what???  You have the same problem with a tuner make by a different 
manufacturer?   It is time to start looking for items that are in your system 
no matter which tuner or antenna you are using.  Don't ignore the radio side of 
the tuner.  An intermittent short or open in a connector or coax on the INPUT 
side of the tuner will cause the tuner to be unable to figure out what 
frequency you are on since it can generate square waves with harmonics well 
above HF.  Look for items that are common no matter which tuner you are using, 
and don't forget the radio itself.

Mark
KE6BB

   
 

   
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[Elecraft] Posting

[Dave]

This may be a duplication in the process.  The email you folks sent, stated, if 
I wanted to post, I needed to send a request to this email.

dave
KK4CNF
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Re: [Elecraft] Replacing the bulky IEC cable in UK used KX2's

[Stephen Prior]

Thanks Doug and Brian,

In the last half hour I have also found the same type of adapter for both
European (Schuko) and US mains plugs on the same auction site.

73 Stephen G4SJP

On 26 February 2017 at 20:29, Brian Hunt  wrote:

> Good find! Thank you.
>
> 72,
> Brian,K0DTJ
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Replacing the bulky IEC cable in UK used KX2's

[Brian Hunt]

Good find! Thank you. 

72,
Brian,K0DTJ

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Re: [Elecraft] T-1 tuner stopped tuning

[Irma Linas]

Don, Jim, thanks.
Could be a processor, agree. Paradoxically, I have excactly  the same
problem with the big MFJ-927 tuner and the preprogrammed chip replacement
from the company made no cure, :).
The buttons seems like working for they do switching during the test mode.
 I'll definetely write to the Electaft tech support, they are quick and
friendly, once have helped me a lot by guiding through the fix of the K3
I/O
board.

Linas Ly2H


On 2017 vas. 26, sk at 21:40 Jim Miller  wrote:

> Are you sure the push button switches are working?
>
> Jim ab3cv
>
> On Feb 26, 2017, at 2:31 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Linas,
>
> It sounds like a microprocessor problem, but I can't be sure.
> Do you know of any locals who also has a T1 and would be willing to try
> swapping the microprocessor?
>
> It may be heplful to contact Elecraft support even though you may not want
> to send it in for repair.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > On 2/26/2017 2:09 PM, Irma Linas wrote:
> > Hello,
> > My Elecrat T-1 mini-autotuner stopped working after some 10 years of
> > flawless service...
> > It started behaving erratically , it either does not react to the RF
> input
> > , or if it does then never finds the tune ending up with the red LED on.
> > It is not related with the antenna type,  it is all the same even with
> the
> > perfectly tuned R-8 on. The self LC test procedure as described in the
> > manual , though went ok. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery
> doesn'
> > help. I also tried to eject and reinstal the microprocessor chip to no
> > avail. Visual inspection of the boards brought nothing suspicious and
> > resoldering the BNC contacts hasn't made any difference.
> >
> > Any wise advise is welcome ! ( Except the " send it back to Elecraft"
> type,
> > :). It would be cheaper just to order the new one, :)
> >
> > 73 de Linas LY2H
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to donw...@embarqmail.com
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] T-1 tuner stopped tuning

[Jim Miller]

Are you sure the push button switches are working?

Jim ab3cv

On Feb 26, 2017, at 2:31 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Linas,

It sounds like a microprocessor problem, but I can't be sure.
Do you know of any locals who also has a T1 and would be willing to try 
swapping the microprocessor?

It may be heplful to contact Elecraft support even though you may not want to 
send it in for repair.

73,
Don W3FPR

> On 2/26/2017 2:09 PM, Irma Linas wrote:
> Hello,
> My Elecrat T-1 mini-autotuner stopped working after some 10 years of
> flawless service...
> It started behaving erratically , it either does not react to the RF input
> , or if it does then never finds the tune ending up with the red LED on.
> It is not related with the antenna type,  it is all the same even with the
> perfectly tuned R-8 on. The self LC test procedure as described in the
> manual , though went ok. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery doesn'
> help. I also tried to eject and reinstal the microprocessor chip to no
> avail. Visual inspection of the boards brought nothing suspicious and
> resoldering the BNC contacts hasn't made any difference.
> 
> Any wise advise is welcome ! ( Except the " send it back to Elecraft" type,
> :). It would be cheaper just to order the new one, :)
> 
> 73 de Linas LY2H
> __
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] T-1 tuner stopped tuning

[Don Wilhelm]

Linas,

It sounds like a microprocessor problem, but I can't be sure.
Do you know of any locals who also has a T1 and would be willing to try 
swapping the microprocessor?


It may be heplful to contact Elecraft support even though you may not 
want to send it in for repair.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 2:09 PM, Irma Linas wrote:

Hello,
My Elecrat T-1 mini-autotuner stopped working after some 10 years of
flawless service...
It started behaving erratically , it either does not react to the RF input
, or if it does then never finds the tune ending up with the red LED on.
It is not related with the antenna type,  it is all the same even with the
perfectly tuned R-8 on. The self LC test procedure as described in the
manual , though went ok. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery doesn'
help. I also tried to eject and reinstal the microprocessor chip to no
avail. Visual inspection of the boards brought nothing suspicious and
resoldering the BNC contacts hasn't made any difference.

Any wise advise is welcome ! ( Except the " send it back to Elecraft" type,
:). It would be cheaper just to order the new one, :)

73 de Linas LY2H
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

Can it be the Remoterig settings are incorrect?

P-T




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

If f.ex. both K3 and K3/0 has the tx equalizer set, will their effect be
added?

P-T




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[Elecraft] T-1 tuner stopped tuning

[Irma Linas]

Hello,
My Elecrat T-1 mini-autotuner stopped working after some 10 years of
flawless service...
It started behaving erratically , it either does not react to the RF input
, or if it does then never finds the tune ending up with the red LED on.
It is not related with the antenna type,  it is all the same even with the
perfectly tuned R-8 on. The self LC test procedure as described in the
manual , though went ok. Disconnecting and re-connecting the battery doesn'
help. I also tried to eject and reinstal the microprocessor chip to no
avail. Visual inspection of the boards brought nothing suspicious and
resoldering the BNC contacts hasn't made any difference.

Any wise advise is welcome ! ( Except the " send it back to Elecraft" type,
:). It would be cheaper just to order the new one, :)

73 de Linas LY2H
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[Elecraft] Replacing the bulky IEC cable in UK used KX2's

[Stephen Prior]

If like me you are rather horrified to find that the Li-ion charger and
cable for the KX2 takes up more space in a bag than the transceiver itself,
I've just found one of these adapters which replaces the cable completely.
No doubt similar adapters exist for other mains plug designs.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111684867337

73 Stephen G4SJP
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Re: [Elecraft] New build K3S no speaker audio, low mic gain

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

Chuck,

Looks like your reply didn't go to the list, so I'm quoting it below for
the benefit of other readers.

It looks like KG6IRW has the solution.  From the Owner's Manual Errata:

"IF THE SPEAKER IS NOT WORKING with headphones unplugged: Locate the
CONFIG:SPKR+PH menu entry. Tap ‘1’ on the numeric keypad until you see PH.R
SW–. The minus sign (-) indicates inverted switch logic for the jack on the
KIO3B audio board. Exit the menu and re-save your configuration using K3
Utility."

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 7:43 AM, Chuck Chandler 
wrote:

> Which speaker doesn't work, the internal speaker or an external one
> plugged into the SPKRS jack on the back?  The internal one only.
>
> If internal, did you remember to connect the 2-pin cable to the header
> before putting the top cover on?  Yes, and since I just installed the SubRX
> I was able to remove it and replace it carefully.
>
> If external, did you use a stereo plug or a mono plug?  This morning I
> used a stereo plug to two separate speakers for the rear jack - they are
> working properly.  Its only the internal one that isnt working.
>
> Re. mic gain, there's a SPEED / MIC knob on the front of the radio.  Did
> you turn it?  Nope.  When I did, all worked as it should transmit
> audio-wise.
>
> Thanks for the pointers!  Still learning any suggestions on the
> internal speaker welcome...
>
> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Mike Cox]

If CONFIG:PB CTRL is set to .01 in CW mode, then, per the function 
description in the K3 Owners Manual (pp. 62 in Manual Revision A1), you 
will be limited to the Shift/Width controls mode only. Change PB CTRL to 
.05 and you will also enable LO/HI cut on the controls.


73,
Mike

On 2/26/2017 10:13 AM, Ted Bryant wrote:

In playing with Bob N6TV's suggested settings, I've discovered that on CW,
neither the Shift->LO Cut nor the Width->HI Cut controls change functions
when tapped.  They appear fixed at SHIFT and WIDTH.  Tapping them merely
displays their current setting.  On SSB, they change and work as expected.
Is there a parameter setting somewhere that affects this?  I've looked
through the release notes but see nothing.

Using the latest firmware: 5.57

73, Ted W4NZ




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Ted Bryant]

Hello F5VJC,

 

Yes!  You are correct.  Thank you.  That solved the problem.

 

73, Ted W4NZ

 

 

From: F5vjc [mailto:foxfive@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 11:48 AM
To: Ted Bryant
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

 

CONFIG PB CTRL SHIFT (set to .05) if set to .01 will cause this.

 

73 F5VJC

 

 

On 26 February 2017 at 16:13, Ted Bryant  wrote:

In playing with Bob N6TV's suggested settings, I've discovered that on CW,
neither the Shift->LO Cut nor the Width->HI Cut controls change functions
when tapped.  They appear fixed at SHIFT and WIDTH.  Tapping them merely
displays their current setting.  On SSB, they change and work as expected.
Is there a parameter setting somewhere that affects this?  I've looked
through the release notes but see nothing.

Using the latest firmware: 5.57

73, Ted W4NZ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 1:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

On Thu,2/23/2017 6:32 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
> For reference, here are my preferred AGC and other settings for contesting
with a K3 and large CW pileups.

Bob's a great op, so I really appreciate seeing his settings. But they're
all run together in his email with no paragraphs or punctuation, so it's
very hard to read. I copied his settings into a word processor and added
paragraphs.

73, Jim K9YC

-   -   -  -   -   -   -

First, set *CONFIG:TECH MD ON* to un-hide some AGC settings.Set CONFIG:TECH
MD OFF when finished, to eliminate distracting values from accidentally
appearing in the SubRx display (PLL1, AFV, dBV, etc.)

*AF GAIN LO* -- Cuts audio hiss.May not work with all headphones.OK on Heil.

*AF LIM 20* -- Only takes effect when AGC is OFF (rarely used)

*AGC DCY Soft* -- Reduces AGC-induced IMD, recommended for pileups

*AGC HLD 0.05* -- Slow AGC hold time (50 ms).Reduces AGC-induced IMD,
recommended for pileups.Works with AGC-S only, no affect when using AGC-F.

*AGC PLS NOR* -- Loud static pulses do not pump AGC

*AGC SLP 010*-- A pretty "flat" AGC response curve.I may move this lower
since pileups of loud guys can blend together, but I like this setting
because it saves my ears.

*AGC THR 010* -- AGC kicks in at about S-8.Signals lower than THR behave as
they would with AGC OFF ( +1 dB of RF = +1 dB of audio)

*AGC -F 120* -- Factory default fast AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*AGC -S 20*-- Factory default slow AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =

faster.Faster can be bad.

*RF GAIN at 3 O'Clock or less* except when all signals and band noise are
very low (e.g. 10m)

*AF GAIN* never higher than 3 O'Clock

*AFX OFF*

*NR OFF*

*NB OFF*

*RIT OFF*

*XIT OFF*


FL1 to FL5 BW set to match labeled filter bandwidth exactly, not wider or
narrower.

Use *AGC-F* or *AGC-S* for CW, whatever works best for you.

Use *AGC-S* for SSB.

CW Pitch 500 (or to taste), IF shift centered (on CW)

500 Hz InRad 8-pole filter on CW

2.8 kHz 8-pole filter on SSB (1.8 8-pole when bands crowded, *must move IF
SHIFT lower for pleasing audio*)

Use *XFIL* button to toggle between filters and reset the IF shift, rather
than NOR (hold) button

*PREamp ON* for 15m and up, *PREamp OFF* for all other bands

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delivered to w...@comcast.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Ted Bryant]

Thanks  Joe, Randy and Ken.  But the CW QRQ says it is OFF.  There is no "+"
showing, either.

73, Ted W4NZ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe
Subich, W4TV
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 10:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush


Do you have QRQ mode selected (+ showing in the display)?

 From the Owner's Manual, page 54: > Filter passband SHIFT/LOCUT/HICUT
cannot be used when CW QRQ is in
> effect.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 2/26/2017 10:13 AM, Ted Bryant wrote:
> In playing with Bob N6TV's suggested settings, I've discovered that on CW,
> neither the Shift->LO Cut nor the Width->HI Cut controls change functions
> when tapped.  They appear fixed at SHIFT and WIDTH.  Tapping them merely
> displays their current setting.  On SSB, they change and work as expected.
> Is there a parameter setting somewhere that affects this?  I've looked
> through the release notes but see nothing.
>
> Using the latest firmware: 5.57
>
> 73, Ted W4NZ
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
> Brown
> Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 1:54 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush
>
> On Thu,2/23/2017 6:32 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
>> For reference, here are my preferred AGC and other settings for
contesting
> with a K3 and large CW pileups.
>
> Bob's a great op, so I really appreciate seeing his settings. But they're
> all run together in his email with no paragraphs or punctuation, so it's
> very hard to read. I copied his settings into a word processor and added
> paragraphs.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> -   -   -  -   -   -   -
>
> First, set *CONFIG:TECH MD ON* to un-hide some AGC settings.Set
CONFIG:TECH
> MD OFF when finished, to eliminate distracting values from accidentally
> appearing in the SubRx display (PLL1, AFV, dBV, etc.)
>
> *AF GAIN LO* -- Cuts audio hiss.May not work with all headphones.OK on
Heil.
>
> *AF LIM 20* -- Only takes effect when AGC is OFF (rarely used)
>
> *AGC DCY Soft* -- Reduces AGC-induced IMD, recommended for pileups
>
> *AGC HLD 0.05* -- Slow AGC hold time (50 ms).Reduces AGC-induced IMD,
> recommended for pileups.Works with AGC-S only, no affect when using AGC-F.
>
> *AGC PLS NOR* -- Loud static pulses do not pump AGC
>
> *AGC SLP 010*-- A pretty "flat" AGC response curve.I may move this lower
> since pileups of loud guys can blend together, but I like this setting
> because it saves my ears.
>
> *AGC THR 010* -- AGC kicks in at about S-8.Signals lower than THR behave
as
> they would with AGC OFF ( +1 dB of RF = +1 dB of audio)
>
> *AGC -F 120* -- Factory default fast AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher
=
> faster.Faster can be bad.
>
> *AGC -S 20*-- Factory default slow AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
> faster.Faster can be bad.
>
> *RF GAIN at 3 O'Clock or less* except when all signals and band noise are
> very low (e.g. 10m)
>
> *AF GAIN* never higher than 3 O'Clock
>
> *AFX OFF*
>
> *NR OFF*
>
> *NB OFF*
>
> *RIT OFF*
>
> *XIT OFF*
>
>
> FL1 to FL5 BW set to match labeled filter bandwidth exactly, not wider or
> narrower.
>
> Use *AGC-F* or *AGC-S* for CW, whatever works best for you.
>
> Use *AGC-S* for SSB.
>
> CW Pitch 500 (or to taste), IF shift centered (on CW)
>
> 500 Hz InRad 8-pole filter on CW
>
> 2.8 kHz 8-pole filter on SSB (1.8 8-pole when bands crowded, *must move IF
> SHIFT lower for pleasing audio*)
>
> Use *XFIL* button to toggle between filters and reset the IF shift, rather
> than NOR (hold) button
>
> *PREamp ON* for 15m and up, *PREamp OFF* for all other bands
>
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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] Sub-RX no signals

[Chuck Chandler]

Never mind...

Walked back through the setup and realized I hadn't set the installed SubRX
filters on all modes... just CW.

All seems fine with the SubRX now.

73 de Chuck, WS1L

On Sun, Feb 26, 2017 at 9:50 AM, Chuck Chandler 
wrote:

> Well, the Sub receiver was installed this morning, filters and config
> seemed to complete without problem.
>
> However, the Sub-RX does not seem to be getting any signals.  I see the
> Ant=Main when I use B-Set, so it should be sharing the main antenna.
>
> Any suggestions?  Nothing pops out on the CONFIG list, and I had three TMP
> cables plugged into the SubRX module, there were only 3 jacks I saw.  There
> were no unplugged ends inside the case.  There was one leftover TMP
> cable... I thought it was for the 144 module I don't have.  I may have to
> open it up and re-check all the TMP cables.  Unless it's a simpler fix.
>
> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
>
> --
>
>
> ===
> Chuck Chandler
> chandler...@gmail.com
> ===
>



-- 


===
Chuck Chandler
chandler...@gmail.com
===
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

Thanks, John. This fits with what I have assumed.

I would like to try connecting the mic directly to the RRC-control, but I do
not have the reqired adapter.

We'll see...

P-T





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[Elecraft] Sub-RX no signals

[Chuck Chandler]

Well, the Sub receiver was installed this morning, filters and config
seemed to complete without problem.

However, the Sub-RX does not seem to be getting any signals.  I see the
Ant=Main when I use B-Set, so it should be sharing the main antenna.

Any suggestions?  Nothing pops out on the CONFIG list, and I had three TMP
cables plugged into the SubRX module, there were only 3 jacks I saw.  There
were no unplugged ends inside the case.  There was one leftover TMP
cable... I thought it was for the 144 module I don't have.  I may have to
open it up and re-check all the TMP cables.  Unless it's a simpler fix.

73 de Chuck, WS1L

-- 


===
Chuck Chandler
chandler...@gmail.com
===
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[John Langdon]

When the K3/0 is connected to the K3, the rP or Fp menu sets the condition
of the K3, not the K3/0.
When the K3/0 is not connected, the setting changes the K3/0.
But I have had much better luck with connecting directly to the mic input om
the RRC control, so try that if you can.

73 John N5CQ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of LA7NO
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 9:38 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

I just found tha there is a comment on the K3 mic setting on the top of p.16
in the K3 Remote manual.
I have now changed my setting for K3 to "rPL". Not sure if it should have
been "rPH".

Does the setting of the K3/0 have any influence when in remote  mode?
I find it a bit confusing that there apparently are two menu settings for
the K3/0:
one while disconnected from Remoterig and another while connected through to
K3.

P-T





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

I just found tha there is a comment on the K3 mic setting on the top of p.16
in the K3 Remote manual.
I have now changed my setting for K3 to "rPL". Not sure if it should have
been "rPH".

Does the setting of the K3/0 have any influence when in remote  mode?
I find it a bit confusing that there apparently are two menu settings for
the K3/0:
one while disconnected from Remoterig and another while connected through to
K3.

P-T





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Ken K3IU]

I am using 5.57 here and tapping either the shift or width 
knobs causes the function to cycle between Lo/HI and 
Shift/Width with the Green LEDs to switch as well.

73, Ken K3IU
~~
On 2/26/2017 10:13 AM, Ted Bryant wrote:

In playing with Bob N6TV's suggested settings, I've discovered that on CW,
neither the Shift->LO Cut nor the Width->HI Cut controls change functions
when tapped.  They appear fixed at SHIFT and WIDTH.  Tapping them merely
displays their current setting.  On SSB, they change and work as expected.
Is there a parameter setting somewhere that affects this?  I've looked
through the release notes but see nothing.

Using the latest firmware: 5.57

73, Ted W4NZ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 1:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

On Thu,2/23/2017 6:32 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:

For reference, here are my preferred AGC and other settings for contesting

with a K3 and large CW pileups.

Bob's a great op, so I really appreciate seeing his settings. But they're
all run together in his email with no paragraphs or punctuation, so it's
very hard to read. I copied his settings into a word processor and added
paragraphs.

73, Jim K9YC

-   -   -  -   -   -   -

First, set *CONFIG:TECH MD ON* to un-hide some AGC settings.Set CONFIG:TECH
MD OFF when finished, to eliminate distracting values from accidentally
appearing in the SubRx display (PLL1, AFV, dBV, etc.)

*AF GAIN LO* -- Cuts audio hiss.May not work with all headphones.OK on Heil.

*AF LIM 20* -- Only takes effect when AGC is OFF (rarely used)

*AGC DCY Soft* -- Reduces AGC-induced IMD, recommended for pileups

*AGC HLD 0.05* -- Slow AGC hold time (50 ms).Reduces AGC-induced IMD,
recommended for pileups.Works with AGC-S only, no affect when using AGC-F.

*AGC PLS NOR* -- Loud static pulses do not pump AGC

*AGC SLP 010*-- A pretty "flat" AGC response curve.I may move this lower
since pileups of loud guys can blend together, but I like this setting
because it saves my ears.

*AGC THR 010* -- AGC kicks in at about S-8.Signals lower than THR behave as
they would with AGC OFF ( +1 dB of RF = +1 dB of audio)

*AGC -F 120* -- Factory default fast AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*AGC -S 20*-- Factory default slow AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*RF GAIN at 3 O'Clock or less* except when all signals and band noise are
very low (e.g. 10m)

*AF GAIN* never higher than 3 O'Clock

*AFX OFF*

*NR OFF*

*NB OFF*

*RIT OFF*

*XIT OFF*


FL1 to FL5 BW set to match labeled filter bandwidth exactly, not wider or
narrower.

Use *AGC-F* or *AGC-S* for CW, whatever works best for you.

Use *AGC-S* for SSB.

CW Pitch 500 (or to taste), IF shift centered (on CW)

500 Hz InRad 8-pole filter on CW

2.8 kHz 8-pole filter on SSB (1.8 8-pole when bands crowded, *must move IF
SHIFT lower for pleasing audio*)

Use *XFIL* button to toggle between filters and reset the IF shift, rather
than NOR (hold) button

*PREamp ON* for 15m and up, *PREamp OFF* for all other bands

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Do you have QRQ mode selected (+ showing in the display)?

From the Owner's Manual, page 54: > Filter passband SHIFT/LOCUT/HICUT 
cannot be used when CW QRQ is in

effect.


73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2/26/2017 10:13 AM, Ted Bryant wrote:

In playing with Bob N6TV's suggested settings, I've discovered that on CW,
neither the Shift->LO Cut nor the Width->HI Cut controls change functions
when tapped.  They appear fixed at SHIFT and WIDTH.  Tapping them merely
displays their current setting.  On SSB, they change and work as expected.
Is there a parameter setting somewhere that affects this?  I've looked
through the release notes but see nothing.

Using the latest firmware: 5.57

73, Ted W4NZ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 1:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

On Thu,2/23/2017 6:32 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:

For reference, here are my preferred AGC and other settings for contesting

with a K3 and large CW pileups.

Bob's a great op, so I really appreciate seeing his settings. But they're
all run together in his email with no paragraphs or punctuation, so it's
very hard to read. I copied his settings into a word processor and added
paragraphs.

73, Jim K9YC

-   -   -  -   -   -   -

First, set *CONFIG:TECH MD ON* to un-hide some AGC settings.Set CONFIG:TECH
MD OFF when finished, to eliminate distracting values from accidentally
appearing in the SubRx display (PLL1, AFV, dBV, etc.)

*AF GAIN LO* -- Cuts audio hiss.May not work with all headphones.OK on Heil.

*AF LIM 20* -- Only takes effect when AGC is OFF (rarely used)

*AGC DCY Soft* -- Reduces AGC-induced IMD, recommended for pileups

*AGC HLD 0.05* -- Slow AGC hold time (50 ms).Reduces AGC-induced IMD,
recommended for pileups.Works with AGC-S only, no affect when using AGC-F.

*AGC PLS NOR* -- Loud static pulses do not pump AGC

*AGC SLP 010*-- A pretty "flat" AGC response curve.I may move this lower
since pileups of loud guys can blend together, but I like this setting
because it saves my ears.

*AGC THR 010* -- AGC kicks in at about S-8.Signals lower than THR behave as
they would with AGC OFF ( +1 dB of RF = +1 dB of audio)

*AGC -F 120* -- Factory default fast AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*AGC -S 20*-- Factory default slow AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*RF GAIN at 3 O'Clock or less* except when all signals and band noise are
very low (e.g. 10m)

*AF GAIN* never higher than 3 O'Clock

*AFX OFF*

*NR OFF*

*NB OFF*

*RIT OFF*

*XIT OFF*


FL1 to FL5 BW set to match labeled filter bandwidth exactly, not wider or
narrower.

Use *AGC-F* or *AGC-S* for CW, whatever works best for you.

Use *AGC-S* for SSB.

CW Pitch 500 (or to taste), IF shift centered (on CW)

500 Hz InRad 8-pole filter on CW

2.8 kHz 8-pole filter on SSB (1.8 8-pole when bands crowded, *must move IF
SHIFT lower for pleasing audio*)

Use *XFIL* button to toggle between filters and reset the IF shift, rather
than NOR (hold) button

*PREamp ON* for 15m and up, *PREamp OFF* for all other bands

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[Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

Hello,

I have a problem connecting a Heil headset to the K3/0-mini.
Guess it is a configuration problem, since it works OK if conneced directly
to the K3 in local mode.

I have tested it with the K3 MIC set to "rP.H bIAS" and K3/0 to "FP.H bIAS"
(configured when K3/0 was disconnected from Remoterig).

Can't find anything about this in the K3-Remote manual.
Could someone point me to the correct setup of both the K3 and the
K3/0-mini?
Any help is most welcome.

73,

Per-Tore
LA7NO





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

[Ted Bryant]

In playing with Bob N6TV's suggested settings, I've discovered that on CW,
neither the Shift->LO Cut nor the Width->HI Cut controls change functions
when tapped.  They appear fixed at SHIFT and WIDTH.  Tapping them merely
displays their current setting.  On SSB, they change and work as expected.
Is there a parameter setting somewhere that affects this?  I've looked
through the release notes but see nothing.

Using the latest firmware: 5.57

73, Ted W4NZ


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim
Brown
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 1:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Receiver mush

On Thu,2/23/2017 6:32 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV wrote:
> For reference, here are my preferred AGC and other settings for contesting
with a K3 and large CW pileups.

Bob's a great op, so I really appreciate seeing his settings. But they're
all run together in his email with no paragraphs or punctuation, so it's
very hard to read. I copied his settings into a word processor and added
paragraphs.

73, Jim K9YC

-   -   -  -   -   -   -

First, set *CONFIG:TECH MD ON* to un-hide some AGC settings.Set CONFIG:TECH
MD OFF when finished, to eliminate distracting values from accidentally
appearing in the SubRx display (PLL1, AFV, dBV, etc.)

*AF GAIN LO* -- Cuts audio hiss.May not work with all headphones.OK on Heil.

*AF LIM 20* -- Only takes effect when AGC is OFF (rarely used)

*AGC DCY Soft* -- Reduces AGC-induced IMD, recommended for pileups

*AGC HLD 0.05* -- Slow AGC hold time (50 ms).Reduces AGC-induced IMD,
recommended for pileups.Works with AGC-S only, no affect when using AGC-F.

*AGC PLS NOR* -- Loud static pulses do not pump AGC

*AGC SLP 010*-- A pretty "flat" AGC response curve.I may move this lower
since pileups of loud guys can blend together, but I like this setting
because it saves my ears.

*AGC THR 010* -- AGC kicks in at about S-8.Signals lower than THR behave as
they would with AGC OFF ( +1 dB of RF = +1 dB of audio)

*AGC -F 120* -- Factory default fast AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*AGC -S 20*-- Factory default slow AGC decay rate (recovery time).Higher =
faster.Faster can be bad.

*RF GAIN at 3 O'Clock or less* except when all signals and band noise are
very low (e.g. 10m)

*AF GAIN* never higher than 3 O'Clock

*AFX OFF*

*NR OFF*

*NB OFF*

*RIT OFF*

*XIT OFF*


FL1 to FL5 BW set to match labeled filter bandwidth exactly, not wider or
narrower.

Use *AGC-F* or *AGC-S* for CW, whatever works best for you.

Use *AGC-S* for SSB.

CW Pitch 500 (or to taste), IF shift centered (on CW)

500 Hz InRad 8-pole filter on CW

2.8 kHz 8-pole filter on SSB (1.8 8-pole when bands crowded, *must move IF
SHIFT lower for pleasing audio*)

Use *XFIL* button to toggle between filters and reset the IF shift, rather
than NOR (hold) button

*PREamp ON* for 15m and up, *PREamp OFF* for all other bands

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[Elecraft] Long in the tooth K3

[C Allen Baker via Elecraft]

 My oldest k3, serial # in 200s has developed a quirk in key pad that #s 4 , 8 
, and 9 no longer register when mashed.
 Is this a simple fix regarding panel cabling seating?  Or, is it more complex?
Any hints welcome.
73 de Al, W5IZ   (also long in the tooth

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