yes, I realize the XVs have a DB-9 connector, not a DB-15 as on the ACC port
for the K3. I have Y-cables for both. Any problem?
73, Eric
- Forwarded Message
Is there any reason why I can't use a simple Y-cable to extend the cabling from
one XV transverter to two? I bought a
Hello Elecraft,
Is any plans for this kind of coupler (DCV/U-200 144-450 MHz, .1- 200W) but
in 1KW range?
Thanks
Samir, 7S7V
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Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers. I'm in the process of buying
a set of Whia drivers. I feel that the driver I've been using fits
fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
better.
Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
getting into
GM0ELP wrote:
Hi Paul,
The rest of my post gave reasons why K3-EZ isn't the right solution
for me, but thanks for the suggestion. In reading the content of the K3-EZ
link you gave, it says that K3-EZ doesn't work with LP-Bridge. This is
also a bit of a show stopper for me as my
Brandon673 wrote:
I would like to hear opinions and reasons for the best filter to use for
operating PSK31 with the K3.
You don't need anything more than the SSB filter. I agree with Don that to
provide the best chance of copying a signal it's best to use narrow
filtering around it but I
Elecrafters,
thanks a lot for all the input.
Not only did we discuss the filters, we also discussed on shift, width
and passband-tuning.
The different approaches to eliminate qrm *and* keep the signals
readable were very informative.
I learned a lot.
HNY
Martin
--
73, DM4iM
Test
Sent from my iPod
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Please help
Hello David,
$69.95 for the board + $40.50 shipping by USPS International (it came in a
surprisingly large box but very well packed) + VAT on entering UK + (the
worst part) £13.50 Parcelforce handling charge. It all added up to £92.72.
It took about 10 days door to door by USPS International.
I would like to be able to use the Dual PB filter in Data A. When I'm
searching the digital band segments I usually keep my K3 in DATA A, which is
handy for most digital modes. If I find a RTTY signal, switching to AFSK
means losing the signal and having to reacquire it since AFSK changes the
Eric,
The connector on the XV transverter series is DE-9 not DB-15. The
DB-15s will fit the K3 ACC connector.
Yes, the connectors are normally a daisy-chained Y cable for all except
the end devices. but I suppose they could be all single cables going to
a spider hub created from Y cables,
Brett,
I believe the answer to most of your fears is to purchase a new
screwdriver and yes, make up that BOM list and place an order. Replace
what needs replacing and be done with it.
While you are replacing, check the grounding points on the panels and
you may have some improvement in
David,
Open the top cover and check the plugging of all the TMP cables as a
good starting point. Check all the areas that you disturbed to see if
anything is out of place.
I doubt the firmware is the problem, but you could certainly try another
firmware load just to be certain. Make sure the
G4ILO wrote:
Brandon673 wrote:
I would like to hear opinions and reasons for the best filter to use for
operating PSK31 with the K3.
You don't need anything more than the SSB filter.
I agree with Julian. Remember, it is the DSP that is responsible for
signal filtering. You do not need
While some in this forum marvel at the way things go together in this radio, I
was not pleased with the standoff situation. Using screws to attach standoffs
in later to be inaccessible locations, and adjusting standoff lengths with
stacks of washers is acceptable in a homebrew or prototype
Geoff and group,
I also have one on order which has yet to arrive. This time, I forgot
to ask the good people at Elecraft to ship in as small a box as possible.
Sometimes a small parcel coming by post is just passed through without being
charged VAT by our Post Service. This never happens
As for gain pumping and inter-signal IMD: the likelihood that
you are actually going to encounter a situation that requires a
narrow roofing filter for PSK seems quite remote. Extremely
strong PSK signals are not that common, PSK signals turn on and
off only on time scales of several
- Original Message -
From: Arthur Lewis
To: li...@subich.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 11:02 AM
Subject: KPA 100
I have a KPA100 with a problem. I have two K2/100 and if I exchange the KPA100s
the rig works fine. Therefore the problem is not with the K2. The problem
KPA100
On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Brett Howard wrote:
I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
from the board side snip
I have also considered using either a drop of blue loctite or a tiny bit of
Phil's grease as a thread locker / vibration protection for the screws
Art,
It may be as simple as bad diodes in the wattmeter portion D16 and D17.
To easily check, set the power to 1 or 2 watts and measure the power
output into a dummy with an external wattmeter. If the power output is
12 to 17 watts on the external wattmeter (much greater than 1 or 2
watts),
Hello All,
I would like to be able to TX CW while in Data mode,
This would allow me to use the tune button on the
Yaesu VL-1000 Amp to tune the amp for rtty mode.
73 and HNY Ken K5DNL
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Byron,
I would hesitate to put locktite of any kind on the enclosure screws -
they would be a bear to remove.
Since these are steel screws run into aluminum, the two dissimilar
metals can create drag and can actually lock together, so you have an
effective 'threadlocker' already. One trick I
Hi Ken:
The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in AFSK A. Did I
misunderstand the question?
73,
Mike K2MK
from K5DNL
I would like to be able to TX CW while in Data mode,
This would allow me to use the tune button on the
Yaesu VL-1000 Amp to tune the amp for rtty mode.
73
I have noticed that the order in which panel screws are removed can be
important. For example, on my K3, the rear left top panel screw is easy to
remove if removed early, but much harder if left to last. Not noticed this yet
with either bottom panel.
I have a supply of model railroad flat
We're going to make NR per-mode in the next firmware release, too.
This should eliminate the need to hunt for the ideal setting each time
you change modes.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Dec 29, 2009, at 5:17 PM, Chuck Guenther wrote:
I've been pleasantly surprised at how well NR works even with
very
The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in
AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?
Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question.
The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F Set button
on the Quadra is pressed. The T-F button causes the Quadra tuner
COOL!! finally,I was waiting for that long time,separate setings per mode for
NR,thanks wayne and I wish you and all Elecraft members team,a happy,healthy
and lucky new year.
Hector
AD4C
For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3
--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
I had sent this direct to Brett, but thought perhaps useful for the group
regarding the various issues you mentioned, some suggestions:
1. get new, good-quality screwdrivers (sounds like you are doing that)
- this is really important
- very small screws, fine threads, etc.
2. get
Joe ,
Yes , thanks for helping me out, could not have explained
it that good.
This firmware change would be a big help.
73 Ken K5DNL
---
--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
From: Joe Subich, W4TV
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 6:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in
AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?
Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question.
The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F Set
Brett,
You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit K3SSKT instead of
spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need.
You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty
of extras for later.
Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers..
Rick
K6LE
Here in the Pacific the SS kit is a must, my screw heads tarnished in a
couple
months on stock screws. I use a tiny dollop of penetrox or similar on
the threads
to make sure they come loose next time. Here in the salt everything
corrodes.
And the proper size driver tip is most important.
Oh yeah, get some new, quality screw drivers..
Excellent advice and probably one of the best investments made when
assembling or performing work on the K3. At first, I purchased new #0 and
#1 Phillips-head drivers from Klein Tools. The K3 assembly manual warns
against the use of power
A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
- to invoke TUNE. I envisaged a new config setting like
CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think
it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low
On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 1:28 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
- to invoke TUNE. I envisaged a new config setting like
CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun.
Hi Wayne,
One more item for your list. I just ran into an ERR PTT situation
and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is
showing. I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button. I
understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR
PTT is
I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent origin.
Dunc, W5DC
Joe Planisky wrote:
Hi Wayne,
One more item for your list. I just ran into an ERR PTT situation
and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is
showing. I.e. it doesn't respond to
OK guys early 2010 is just a day away, when can we order our
panadapters?
R Thorpe KD6LAZ
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Post:
Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the error message
appears?
Grant/NQ5T
On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:
I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent origin.
Dunc, W5DC
Joe Planisky wrote:
Hi Wayne,
One more item
No, when it's happened on my K3, the PTT line should be open/clear and
neither is a key line.
Dunc, W5DC
Grant Youngman wrote:
Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the error
message appears?
Grant/NQ5T
On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:
Pardon my bad grammar. When this happens on start-up, the PTT line from
the mike is not closed and neither is any key line.
Duncan Carter wrote:
No, when it's happened on my K3, the PTT line should be open/clear and
neither is a key line.
Dunc, W5DC
Grant Youngman wrote:
Does the
A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
- to invoke TUNE. I envisaged a new config setting like
CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think
it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low
Perhaps overkill due to the K3's internal protection circuit,
but I use an ICE Model 196 on both my K3 and K2.
They're available from Array Solutions and others.
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
Hello all,
Looks like it would be easy to change firmware to
allow cw in data mode.
This may need more than one fix.
Thanks to all HNY Ken K5DNL
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It is in excellent condition, works great with the K3. I have the
original boxes for the mic and base. I will ship and insure in the US
for $139.00.
Prefer PayPal or US postal money order.
Thanks
Tim
NZ8J
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On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:53 PM, Gary Hinson g...@isect.com wrote:
A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
- to invoke TUNE. I envisaged a new config setting like
CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne
Hi Dunc,
Are you saying that you got the ERR PTT indication when nothing was
connected to the rig or at least you couldn't find a definite cause
for it? That's what happened to me. I was getting ERR PTT with
absolutely nothing but power and antenna connected to the rig. After
partial
It's an occasional problem that started after a recent firmware upgrade
and happens with nothing connected. It clears after I stop and re-start
the power supply, stopping the power supply being required because
nothing else has any effect, and then tap the power button. So far,
it's not
If you guys want to share your audio clips,settings,etc my new website is done
deal at www.ad4c.us, just send me whatever you want all us to see or hear and I
will upload it to it,I have unlimited capacity,so anything can be uploaded,even
a movie about the K3.
AD4C
For a refined ham it is
I purchased my K3 when they first came out I remember that it would
putout RF. I've been away from the hobby for a while I can't get any
RF out. When in CW mode, when I key the radio, I hear a tone, the TX led
does not come on I can adjust the power knob very the setting past
100 watts. There
Make sure VOX is turned on.
-Bruce N1RX
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Anytime before the middle of 2010 is early 2010. What's the hurry? When
it's ready, they'll say so.
-Bruce N1RX
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Post:
Bob Wehking would like to recall the message, [Elecraft] No Output Power on
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Except that that produces full output power, where I want
CONFIG:TUN PWR (which is not not nor).
You notice my proposal to use the ATU Tun (tap) to start the
tuning process and use the Tun Pwr setting. That resolves the
power level issue.
73,
... Joe, W4TV
-Original
There doesn't appear to be any other input line that could be
used for this purpose, though :/
One might conceivably use multiple input lines ... while it
would take some work, pull the FSK and Key lines low at the
same time (diodes like the straight key/paddle fix for the
K2). I suspect
Hi all,
I'm considering building a K2, but here's my situation. I'd be a first-time
kit builder, I've never had the opportunity to build and the K2 looks like
it'd be great fun and a great learning experience. The K1 sounds like it's
the better choice for a first-time build, but the K2 matches
much harder but manageable. Follow the manual step by step and have patience.
Don#39;t jump step. Don#39;t go to next section until you are all right.
Then, you will be there for your K2. 73 Johnny vr2xmc
Message sent by Nokia E71
lstavenhagen wrote:
Hi all,
I'm considering building a K2,
I think you will find some sound advice on this forum, LS. You raise a good
question.
I think the key is that you have done no significant kit building to date.
There is nothing fundamentally more difficult about building a K2 vs. a K1.
Both involve soldering lots of discrete components onto a
Hi There,
I don't know if the degree of difficulty is that much greater in a K2 compared
to a K1; there's just a lot more of it to do. In terms of the effort required
to complete a kit, building a K2 might be equivalent to building three or four
K1s and will take you that much longer.
There
LS,
All kits go together the same way, 1 part at a time.
The K2 has more parts, but there are interim checks that tell you that
all is OK.
Any kit has two requirements - 1) that you can do a good job of
soldering - see the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if you
have any questions
Dear Wayne,
Its great !
Many thanks for your efforts.
Bst 73's
Philippe A65BI
K3#3616
Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com 30-12-2009 21:54
We're going to make NR per-mode in the next firmware release, too.
This should eliminate the need to hunt for the ideal setting each time
you change modes.
Well so I've ordered a set of Wiha Driver-Loc drivers. I got the
ESD-Safe handle and a set of bits for pretty much everything I use.
Ok with that taken care of I ordered replacement split washers, inside
tooth washers, black and nickel screws and new standoffs. I also
ordered the stainless
Dears,
Just installed the 6K filter and used the K3 utility.
Can hear the difference on AM mode but, when pressed on XFIL it indicates
normally 6.00 but if using the width knob, it indicate maximum 5.00 at the edge.
I missed something in the configuration ?
Your advises are welcome
Bst 73's
LS...
As others have said, it's one piece at a time, one solder joint at a
time. From that perspective, the K1 and K2 are identical. Some will say
that the K1 is easier, but I think of it more as a simpler radio,
not a simpler construction project. Some fine joy in how much can be
Nobody at Elecraft has been able to explain to me why the new DSP board I
received some time ago has had such a profound affect on my K3. It was not
supposed to. Mainly, in improved AGC. Also improved uniformity of Rx Gain
between my K3's #272 and #2308. The DSP board upgrade has been the
We have several built and we're busy with a second round of
improvements (mostly in firmware). We still can't put a date or price
on it, but the engineering team is doing everything possible to get it
into manufacturing.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
P.S. It's really cool. You definitely want to borrow
Added to my list of things to check.
tnx
Wayne
N6KR
On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:
I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent
origin.
Dunc, W5DC
Joe Planisky wrote:
Hi Wayne,
One more item for your list. I just ran into an ERR PTT
Phillippe,
The K3 width display indicates the audio bandwidth rather than the IF
bandwidth. An AM signal has two sidebands that must be demodulated, so
a 6 khZ IF bandwidth results in a 3 kHz audio bandwidth.
73,
Don W3FPR
Philippe Trottet wrote:
Dears,
Just installed the 6K filter and
There is a company out there that makes a little devise for tuning tube HF
amplifier finals. It uses a single pulsed tone at a 30% on 70% off duty-cycle,
one can see the advantage of this device in tuning up those expensive tubes.
Could such an arrangement be incorporated in the software of
Back in late 2000, the K2 was my first kit ever! Since then, I've built an SST,
DSW, a couple DSWII's, SMK-1, and a couple other little kits. I Didn't think
the K2 was too hard to build. The instructions were very clear and the step by
step was easy to follow. I took my time and made sure
Hi Stan,
There's one way to tell ... give it a try. (:-))
I would expect any mismatch would be easily detected by
careful listening or watching the s-meter while tuned to a
stable signal while you plugged in one and then the other.
I think it would be difficult to find a Y TMP, however.
Female
Hmmm. I think the software feature you want is already in the K3.
Use, the CW mode, adjust the keyer to 30 WPM or so, and you have a 50%
duty cycle pulser - just hold down the dot paddle. If you want a
lower duty cycle, simply tweak the weight option until you get what
you want. If you
Hi Richard
Foxtango used to make a kit. Theres one thats being sold on the net called
3898 Pecker. Expensive price for what it is.
Anyway I made up some PCB's for these for some friends a while back. I might
still have 1 or 2 left in the junkbox. This PCB is for the original FoxTango
Hi LS. I have never built a K1, but I would guess that a K2 is 2 or
3 times the complexity of a K1. But don't let that scare you. The
instructions for assembly are superb and the Elecraft support is as well.
The K2 was my first major project and I just followed the assembly manual to
the T
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