date:20091230

Eric,

The connector on the XV transverter series is DE-9 not DB-15.  The 
DB-15s will fit the K3 ACC connector.
Yes, the connectors are normally a daisy-chained Y cable for all except 
the end devices. but I suppose they could be all single cables going to 
a spider hub created from Y cables, although it should be tested - 
that arrangement may be more  prone to noise pickup.

73,
Don W3FPR

eric norris wrote:
 Is there any reason why I can't use a simple Y-cable to extend the cabling 
 from one XV transverter to two?  I bought a handful of  DB-15 Y-cables from 
 Cable Wholesale (based on a recommendation from this list) and so far they 
 have worked FB   I use one DB-15 to split off PR6 control, another for the 
 XV-144, and one for a top-ten band decoder.  Any reason why I can't add 
 another when I finish my XV-432 and stack it on top of my XV-144?

 73,

 Eric WD6DBM  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

Brett,

I believe the answer to most of your fears is to purchase a new 
screwdriver and yes, make up that BOM list and place an order.  Replace 
what needs replacing and be done with it.

While you are replacing, check the grounding points on the panels and 
you may have some improvement in grounding afterwards.  If you are 
camming out screws with your current screwdriver, then it is likely they 
are not adequately tightened either.

73,
Don W3FPR

Brett Howard wrote:
 Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers.  I'm in the process of buying
 a set of Whia drivers.  I feel that the driver I've been using fits
 fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
 better.  

 Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
 getting into this radio as many times as I have...  After the DVR, the
 audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and
 every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3)
 I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives...

   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 3422 gone deaf

David,

Open the top cover and check the plugging of all the TMP cables as a 
good starting point.  Check all the areas that you disturbed to see if 
anything is out of place.
I doubt the firmware is the problem, but you could certainly try another 
firmware load just to be certain.  Make sure the firmware finishes 
loading - if it is abnormally terminated, the K3 will not work.
You could try an EEINIT and then set up all the menus from scratch.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Christ wrote:
 I got a new 6k filter for my K3.  I installed it as FL1, moved the 
 2.7k from FL1 to FL2 and the .5k from FL2 to FL3.  Changed the 
 configuration to match the new hardware.  Then without verifying the 
 installation I installed MCU 3.68 with Utility 1.2.8.  Noticing that 
 I was supposed to use Utility 1.2.10 I downloaded the new utility and 
 reloaded 3.6.8.  Rig is now effectively deaf.  Sounds the same as if 
 there is no antenna connected.  No change in background noise when 
 antenna is connected.  Switching from ANT1 to ANT2 and back causes 
 relays to click but no change in sound.  I verified that the antenna 
 is OK with another receiver.  Extremely strong signals can be barely 
 heard so it is not totally dead, just has ear plugs in.  From what 
 little signal I get, the attenuator and preamp seem to work.  Tonight 
 no strong signals so nothing but gentle hiss.

 Installation was done on an anti-static mat with a wristband.

 Any suggestions on where to start would be appreciated.

 David K0LUM
   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Best Filter for the K3 when operating PSK31

2009-12-30 Thread Richard Ferch

G4ILO wrote:
 Brandon673 wrote:
 
 I would like to hear opinions and reasons for the best filter to use for
 operating PSK31 with the K3.
 
 
 You don't need anything more than the SSB filter. 

I agree with Julian. Remember, it is the DSP that is responsible for 
signal filtering. You do not need narrow roofing filters to enable 
narrow DSP filtering - you can narrow the DSP filter down to 50 Hz even 
if the only roofing filter you have is 2.7 kHz wide. The job of the 
roofing filters is just to keep unwanted strong signals out of the IF 
bandpass to prevent gain pumping (desense) and IMD (splatter generated 
in the receiver) caused by those unwanted signals.

Regarding DSP filter settings: Wide filter settings are useful to scan 
the band, for SPing, and for multiple signal decoding. Once you have 
picked a signal to work, or if you are calling CQ, narrow DSP filter 
settings can be helpful. You can put your DSP filter controls in 
SHIFT-WIDTH mode and use the two controls to focus on the desired 
frequency, or you can use an Align or Optimize feature in your software 
to center the desired signal at a chosen frequency so you only need to 
adjust the WIDTH control.

As for gain pumping and inter-signal IMD: the likelihood that you are 
actually going to encounter a situation that requires a narrow roofing 
filter for PSK seems quite remote. Extremely strong PSK signals are not 
that common, PSK signals turn on and off only on time scales of several 
seconds, and PSK detection is not highly amplitude-sensitive, so both 
the likelihood and the effects of gain pumping and inter-signal IMD 
would appear to be much reduced compared to other modes.

Bottom line: I'd suggest you base your decisions re roofing filters on 
your needs for other modes, not on PSK31.

73,
Rich VE3KI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread Wes Stewart

While some in this forum marvel at the way things go together in this radio, I 
was not pleased with the standoff situation.  Using screws to attach standoffs 
in later to be inaccessible locations, and adjusting standoff lengths with 
stacks of washers is acceptable in a homebrew or prototype radio, but I think 
that in a production piece they should be of the correct length and permanently 
staked into place.

Flame away.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote:

From: Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: pa...@elecraft.net
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 3:29 AM

Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers.  I'm in the process of buying
a set of Whia drivers.  I feel that the driver I've been using fits
fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
better.  

Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
getting into this radio as many times as I have...  After the DVR, the
audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and
every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3)
I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives...

Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most
fits before.  This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the
sub receiver.  But now that I have that piece in place being able to put
a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. 

I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the
bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that
replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy...

Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly
here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few
replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad.  But
this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly.

I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it
because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues.  I
got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the
center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to
pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter.
(granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place
but had to come out all the way for the other work).  

Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as
the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than
successful.  I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I
need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course)
and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog
house and try there.  

Finally my last question quite concerns me  I've noted that from
several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here
and there around the screw holes.  Being that these are commonly ground
points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I
should...  Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug
my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise
level when the mic is plugged in.  Granted I think this is the first
time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I
rarely ever use it)...  But this makes me wonder what may be up here
FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the
Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to
RF modification.  

I greatly appreciate any advice.  Sorry for asking these questions in
this format with so much unfounded fear but I ask as I don't really have
the time to do a lot of trial an error and documentation/testing like
I'd like in order to make the right decision.  I kinda figure that those
with many of these around would be able to much more quickly answer to
questions such as what happens if some of those ground connections are
less than optimal...  If all else fails and the compromised grounds
causes issue I think with some exacto and copper tape work I can make
those areas very robust to lock washers.

Greatly appreciated gentlemen.

~Brett (KC7OTG)  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: LPF, bass audio, new DSP board: Stirring the pot?

2009-12-30 Thread Doug Turnbull

Geoff and group,
I also have one on order which has yet to arrive.   This time, I forgot
to ask the good people at Elecraft to ship in as small a box as possible.
Sometimes a small parcel coming by post is just passed through without being
charged VAT by our Post Service.   This never happens with any of the other
carriers.   I may call Elecraft later today to request that when they do
ship that they use a small box.   Good luck with the installation.

73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-

Hello David,

$69.95 for the board + $40.50 shipping by USPS International (it came in a 
surprisingly large box but very well packed) + VAT on entering UK + (the 
worst part) £13.50 Parcelforce handling charge. It all added up to £92.72. 
It took about 10 days door to door by USPS International. I could have 
chosen USPS Priority Int. for a saving of about $15 but that would have been

of very uncertain duration.

73 and Happy New Year

Geoff
G3UCK



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Best Filter for the K3 when operating PSK31



 As for gain pumping and inter-signal IMD: the likelihood that 
 you are actually going to encounter a situation that requires a 
 narrow roofing filter for PSK seems quite remote. Extremely 
 strong PSK signals are not that common, PSK signals turn on and 
 off only on time scales of several seconds, and PSK detection is 
 not highly amplitude-sensitive, so both the likelihood and the 
 effects of gain pumping and inter-signal IMD would appear to be 
 much reduced compared to other modes.

That's easy to say in theory.  However, when your neighbor fires 
up with his amplifier in a pile-up and activates the HACG you 
need the 200 Hz filter bandpass decoding simply is not going 
to do the job. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 




 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Ferch
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 9:19 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Best Filter for the K3 when 
 operating PSK31
 
 
 G4ILO wrote:
  Brandon673 wrote:
  
  I would like to hear opinions and reasons for the best 
 filter to use 
  for operating PSK31 with the K3.
  
  
  You don't need anything more than the SSB filter.
 
 I agree with Julian. Remember, it is the DSP that is responsible for 
 signal filtering. You do not need narrow roofing filters to enable 
 narrow DSP filtering - you can narrow the DSP filter down to 
 50 Hz even 
 if the only roofing filter you have is 2.7 kHz wide. The job of the 
 roofing filters is just to keep unwanted strong signals out of the IF 
 bandpass to prevent gain pumping (desense) and IMD (splatter 
 generated 
 in the receiver) caused by those unwanted signals.
 
 Regarding DSP filter settings: Wide filter settings are 
 useful to scan 
 the band, for SPing, and for multiple signal decoding. Once you have 
 picked a signal to work, or if you are calling CQ, narrow DSP filter 
 settings can be helpful. You can put your DSP filter controls in 
 SHIFT-WIDTH mode and use the two controls to focus on the desired 
 frequency, or you can use an Align or Optimize feature in 
 your software 
 to center the desired signal at a chosen frequency so you 
 only need to 
 adjust the WIDTH control.
 
 As for gain pumping and inter-signal IMD: the likelihood that you are 
 actually going to encounter a situation that requires a 
 narrow roofing 
 filter for PSK seems quite remote. Extremely strong PSK 
 signals are not 
 that common, PSK signals turn on and off only on time scales 
 of several 
 seconds, and PSK detection is not highly amplitude-sensitive, so both 
 the likelihood and the effects of gain pumping and inter-signal IMD 
 would appear to be much reduced compared to other modes.
 
 Bottom line: I'd suggest you base your decisions re roofing 
 filters on 
 your needs for other modes, not on PSK31.
 
 73,
 Rich VE3KI 
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[Elecraft] Fw: KPA 100

2009-12-30 Thread Arthur Lewis

- Original Message - 
From: Arthur Lewis 
To: li...@subich.com 
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 11:02 AM
Subject: KPA 100

I have a KPA100 with a problem. I have two K2/100 and if I exchange the KPA100s 
the rig works fine. Therefore the problem is not with the K2. The problem 
KPA100 was built in 2000 and was a good working unit until recently. Both of 
these units are top cover KPA100s. 

Problem:
It seems to draw Hi Cur as soon as I start bringing up the power level and the 
output goes to something above 10 watts. After the relay clicks on the KPA100 
the output on an external watt meter goes above 100 watts and the SWR on the 
external watt meter goes high.  The power adjustment has little effect and the 
rig is drawing about 22 amps.  

Again if I exchange the KPA100 with one that is working properly, everything 
works normal. The rig draws about 13 amps at full power with the good KPA100 
and at the low end, before the relay clicks, has full adustment and low current 
draw. The K2 seems to be working well on receive.

Looking for seggestions. Is this self oscillation or perhaps a LPF problem?

Art WA8VSJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread Byron Servies

On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Brett Howard wrote:

 I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
 from the board side  snip

I have also considered using either a drop of blue loctite or a tiny bit of 
Phil's grease as a thread locker / vibration protection for the screws in my K1 
and was wondering if anyone had any first hand experience to report.

Byron KI6NUL
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: KPA 100

Art,

It may be as simple as bad diodes in the wattmeter portion D16 and D17.
To easily check, set the power to 1 or 2 watts and measure the power 
output into a dummy with an external wattmeter.  If the power output is 
12 to 17 watts on the external wattmeter (much greater than 1 or 2 
watts), then replacing diodes D16 and D17 will restore things to normal.

73,
Don W3FPR

Arthur Lewis wrote:
 - Original Message - 
 From: Arthur Lewis 
 To: li...@subich.com 
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 11:02 AM
 Subject: KPA 100


 I have a KPA100 with a problem. I have two K2/100 and if I exchange the 
 KPA100s the rig works fine. Therefore the problem is not with the K2. The 
 problem KPA100 was built in 2000 and was a good working unit until recently. 
 Both of these units are top cover KPA100s. 

 Problem:
 It seems to draw Hi Cur as soon as I start bringing up the power level and 
 the output goes to something above 10 watts. After the relay clicks on the 
 KPA100 the output on an external watt meter goes above 100 watts and the SWR 
 on the external watt meter goes high.  The power adjustment has little effect 
 and the rig is drawing about 22 amps.  

 Again if I exchange the KPA100 with one that is working properly, everything 
 works normal. The rig draws about 13 amps at full power with the good KPA100 
 and at the low end, before the relay clicks, has full adustment and low 
 current draw. The K2 seems to be working well on receive.

 Looking for seggestions. Is this self oscillation or perhaps a LPF problem?
   

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[Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Ken Roberson

Hello All,

I would like to be able to TX CW while in Data mode,
This would allow me to use the tune button on the 
Yaesu VL-1000 Amp to tune the amp for rtty mode.

73 and HNY Ken K5DNL


  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

Byron,

I would hesitate to put locktite of any kind on the enclosure screws - 
they would be a bear to remove.
Since these are steel screws run into aluminum, the two dissimilar 
metals can create drag and can actually lock together, so you have an 
effective 'threadlocker' already.  One trick I learned long ago is to 
put a tiny drop of oil on the screwthreads when inserting a steel screw 
into aluminum to assure that the screw will be fully seated.  Often the 
threads can drag and give the appearance of being tight, but in fact are 
still loose.

I see no problem with using locktite on the screws that mount the board 
to either standoffs or the 2-D connectors, but if lockwashers are used 
and the screw is adequately tightened, they seldom come loose.  Some 
builders seem to use wimpy wrists, maybe they are afraid of breaking 
something, but the screws holding the board to standoffs or 2D 
connectors should be made more than just snug, give them that little 
extra.

73,
Don W3FPR

Byron Servies wrote:
 On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:29 AM, Brett Howard wrote:

   
 I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
 from the board side  snip
 

 I have also considered using either a drop of blue loctite or a tiny bit of 
 Phil's grease as a thread locker / vibration protection for the screws in my 
 K1 and was wondering if anyone had any first hand experience to report.

 Byron KI6NUL
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.123/2594 - Release Date: 12/30/09 
 02:27:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Mike K2MK


Hi Ken:

The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in AFSK A. Did I
misunderstand the question?

73,
Mike K2MK


from K5DNL

I would like to be able to TX CW while in Data mode,
This would allow me to use the tune button on the 
Yaesu VL-1000 Amp to tune the amp for rtty mode.

73 and HNY Ken K5DNL
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-CW-Data-Mode-tp4232932p4233013.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread Monty Shultes

I have noticed that the order in which panel screws are removed can be 
important.  For example, on my K3, the rear left top panel screw is easy to 
remove if removed early, but much harder if left to last.  Not noticed this yet 
with either bottom panel.
I have a supply of model railroad flat black paint that keeps my screws looking 
good.  Shoe dye works, but not as well.  Permanent marker pens usually leave a 
faint reddish tinge to the black.
Monty  K2DLJ
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Re: [Elecraft] NR Revisited (trying again in plain text mode)

2009-12-30 Thread Wayne Burdick

We're going to make NR per-mode in the next firmware release, too.  
This should eliminate the need to hunt for the ideal setting each time  
you change modes.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 29, 2009, at 5:17 PM, Chuck Guenther wrote:

 I've been pleasantly surprised at how well NR works even with
 very narrow CW bandwidths.  I routinely use a 250 Hz roofing filter
 followed by 250, 200, or 150 Hz DSP filters for Top Band.  The NR
 set around F1-2 or F1-3 quite often makes a difference for me.

 It wasn't always this way.

 Thanks to Elecraft for their continual upgrades via firmware!

 73,
 Chuck  NI0C
 K2-10 s/n 5853  K3 s/n 1061


 Joe, KB8AP, wrote:
  NR works best with wider bandwidths. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode



 The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in 
 AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?

Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question. 

The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F Set button 
on the Quadra is pressed.  The T-F button causes the Quadra tuner 
to retune, etc. if it is pressed and the amplifier gets at least 
75 Watts drive. 

If the K3's Key (straight key) input were active in data modes, 
the T-F output from the Quadra could be connected to the Key 
jack and the K3/Quadra interaction would be fully automatic (if 
one used the N0SS designed cable) just as it is with any of the 
Yaesu transceivers.  

Unfortunately, the K3 does not have an unused DigIn line that 
could be used as a dedicated T-F input but enabling the Key 
input in all remaining modes (Data, AM, and FM) would be an 
entirely satisfactory solution.  If closing that contact were 
to use Tune PWR in Data/AM/FM, it would be icing on the cake. 

By the way, for AM, FM and FSK one can connect T-F Set to BOTH 
Key and PTT using a pair of diodes but this still requires the 
user to switch modes to tune the Quadra when using audio based 
digital modes (AFSK, PSK, etc.). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 
 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike K2MK
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 12:02 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
 
 
 
 Hi Ken:
 
 The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in 
 AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?
 
 73,
 Mike K2MK
 
 
 from K5DNL
 
 I would like to be able to TX CW while in Data mode,
 This would allow me to use the tune button on the 
 Yaesu VL-1000 Amp to tune the amp for rtty mode.
 
 73 and HNY Ken K5DNL
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-CW-Data-Mode-tp4232932p4233013.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. 
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Re: [Elecraft] NR Revisited (trying again in plain text mode)

2009-12-30 Thread Hector Padron

COOL!! finally,I was waiting for that long time,separate setings per mode for 
NR,thanks wayne and I wish you and all Elecraft members team,a happy,healthy 
and lucky new year.
 
Hector
AD4C
 


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:


From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NR Revisited (trying again in plain text mode)
To: Chuck Guenther charles9...@att.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 5:54 PM


We're going to make NR per-mode in the next firmware release, too.  
This should eliminate the need to hunt for the ideal setting each time  
you change modes.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 29, 2009, at 5:17 PM, Chuck Guenther wrote:

 I've been pleasantly surprised at how well NR works even with
 very narrow CW bandwidths.  I routinely use a 250 Hz roofing filter
 followed by 250, 200, or 150 Hz DSP filters for Top Band.  The NR
 set around F1-2 or F1-3 quite often makes a difference for me.

 It wasn't always this way.

 Thanks to Elecraft for their continual upgrades via firmware!

 73,
 Chuck  NI0C
 K2-10 s/n 5853  K3 s/n 1061


 Joe, KB8AP, wrote:
  NR works best with wider bandwidths. 
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[Elecraft] standoffs, locktite and such

2009-12-30 Thread tom kenville

I had sent this direct to Brett, but thought perhaps useful for the group



regarding the various issues you mentioned, some suggestions:

1. get new, good-quality screwdrivers (sounds like you are doing that)
- this is really important
- very small screws, fine threads, etc.

2. get replacement h/w for any dubbed-over, stripped, suspect screws
- these are inexpensive, will allow for ease of insertion/tightening

3. open up, examine in and around any failing standoffs, replace as needed.
 These are aluminum, can gall/strip if used too many times or excessive
torque applied, etc.  When they are fouled, tend to jam up when screw
inserted/turned, causing more torque, more spinning, etc.  They are
inexpensive, so just replace them.

4. *don't use the locktite*.  this only seizes that board-side screw into
the aluminum standoff, but doesn't help with its clamping to the board.  It
makes any future repair well-nigh impossible, and It can also possibly
squeeze out and get between the board land and the standoff, causing
connectivity/grounding issues.

If the standoff is spinning, that indicates that :
- original tightening was insufficient, or that
- too much torque is needed or was applied, or
- the star washer between standoff and board is fouled, and/or
- the 'land' on the board for the star washer is being eroded, or that
- the tapped threading on the cover-side of the standoff is fouled

I'd just replace any standoffs that are having issues.

5. *do not over torque the hardware.*
this is really important -- overdoing it leads to all the above issues.

6. when replacing covers, just lightly insert/turn screws in all holes
- spin screw backwards until you hear/feel the 'click' of the screws
- this indicated that they are properly seating into the mating threads
- then go-round in diagonal pattern gradually pulling them down
- somewhat like the torquing sequence for an engine head

gentleness is key


I like Don's suggestion of small lubricant.  Haven't tried it but may !


As an aside, I too had an issue with the lower front bottom panel.
Just one of the standoffs (back center).

I had to open the top, grip the standoff with a pair of curved beak
long-nose-pliers and tighten down a bit more to get better friction with
motherboard.

Then carefully insert the screw into the bottom panel hole, etc.

It still would not fully seat (probably because I'd fouled the standoff
thread), so I put a small washer between the screw head and the panel (on
outside of panel) so to get a good seating.

All that (on my part) due to my over-doing the original tightening.

I think I will have to go in and replace that standoff though.

Live and learn, HI

-- 
thanks and 73's
Tom Kenville  --  W6TJK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Ken Roberson

Joe , 
Yes , thanks for helping me out, could not have explained
it that good.
This firmware change would be a big help.

73 Ken K5DNL

---

--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
 To: 'Mike K2MK' k...@comcast.net, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 12:42 PM
 
 
  The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At
 least in 
  AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?
 
 Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question. 
 
 The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F
 Set button 
 on the Quadra is pressed.  The T-F button causes the
 Quadra tuner 
 to retune, etc. if it is pressed and the amplifier gets at
 least 
 75 Watts drive. 
 
 If the K3's Key (straight key) input were active in data
 modes, 
 the T-F output from the Quadra could be connected to the
 Key 
 jack and the K3/Quadra interaction would be fully automatic
 (if 
 one used the N0SS designed cable) just as it is with any of
 the 
 Yaesu transceivers.  
 
 Unfortunately, the K3 does not have an unused DigIn line
 that 
 could be used as a dedicated T-F input but enabling the
 Key 
 input in all remaining modes (Data, AM, and FM) would be an
 
 entirely satisfactory solution.  If closing that
 contact were 
 to use Tune PWR in Data/AM/FM, it would be icing on the
 cake. 
 
 By the way, for AM, FM and FSK one can connect T-F Set to
 BOTH 
 Key and PTT using a pair of diodes but this still requires
 the 
 user to switch modes to tune the Quadra when using audio
 based 
 digital modes (AFSK, PSK, etc.). 
 
 73, 
 
    ... Joe, W4TV 
  
  
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
 On Behalf Of Mike K2MK
  Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 12:02 PM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
  
  
  
  Hi Ken:
  
  The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At
 least in 
  AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?
  
  73,
  Mike K2MK
  
  
  from K5DNL
  
  I would like to be able to TX CW while in Data mode,
  This would allow me to use the tune button on the 
  Yaesu VL-1000 Amp to tune the amp for rtty mode.
  
  73 and HNY Ken K5DNL
  -- 
  View this message in context: 
  http://n2.nabble.com/K3-CW-Data-Mode-tp4232932p4233013.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com. 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 6:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:


 The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in
 AFSK A. Did I misunderstand the question?

 Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question.

 The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F Set button
 on the Quadra is pressed.  The T-F button causes the Quadra tuner
 to retune, etc. if it is pressed and the amplifier gets at least
 75 Watts drive.

 If the K3's Key (straight key) input were active in data modes,
 the T-F output from the Quadra could be connected to the Key
 jack and the K3/Quadra interaction would be fully automatic (if
 one used the N0SS designed cable) just as it is with any of the
 Yaesu transceivers.

 Unfortunately, the K3 does not have an unused DigIn line that
 could be used as a dedicated T-F input but enabling the Key
 input in all remaining modes (Data, AM, and FM) would be an
 entirely satisfactory solution.  If closing that contact were
 to use Tune PWR in Data/AM/FM, it would be icing on the cake.

I have an automatic antenna tuner that can tell the rig when to
transmit, for retuning purposes. A while back, I made a suggestion to
Wayne that perhaps the TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given
another purpose - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting
like CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think it
wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on demand. It
seems like this model may work for the Quadra application too, without
having researched it at all. If there's enough demand, maybe it could
be reprioritised...

~Iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread K6LE

Brett,

You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit  K3SSKT instead of 
spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need.

You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty 
of extras for later.

Oh yeah,  get some new, quality screw drivers..

Rick
K6LE

On 12/30/2009, at 2:29 , Brett Howard wrote:

 Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers.  I'm in the process of buying
 a set of Whia drivers.  I feel that the driver I've been using fits
 fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
 better.  
 
 Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
 getting into this radio as many times as I have...  After the DVR, the
 audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and
 every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3)
 I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives...
 
 Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most
 fits before.  This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the
 sub receiver.  But now that I have that piece in place being able to put
 a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. 
 
 I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
 from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the
 bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that
 replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy...
 
 Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly
 here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few
 replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad.  But
 this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly.
 
 I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it
 because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues.  I
 got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the
 center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to
 pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter.
 (granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place
 but had to come out all the way for the other work).  
 
 Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as
 the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than
 successful.  I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I
 need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course)
 and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog
 house and try there.  
 
 Finally my last question quite concerns me  I've noted that from
 several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here
 and there around the screw holes.  Being that these are commonly ground
 points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I
 should...  Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug
 my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise
 level when the mic is plugged in.  Granted I think this is the first
 time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I
 rarely ever use it)...  But this makes me wonder what may be up here
 FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the
 Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to
 RF modification.  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread Merv Schweigert

Here in the Pacific the SS kit is a must,  my screw heads tarnished in a 
couple
months on stock screws.   I use a tiny dollop of penetrox or similar on 
the threads
to make sure they come loose next time.  Here in the salt everything 
corrodes.
And the proper size driver tip is most important. 
73 Merv KH7C
 Brett,

 You might consider ordering the Stainless fastener kit  K3SSKT instead of 
 spending the time to inventory the ones you'll need.

 You get a complete collection of all the exterior screws and nuts with plenty 
 of extras for later.

 Oh yeah,  get some new, quality screw drivers..

 Rick
 K6LE

 On 12/30/2009, at 2:29 , Brett Howard wrote:

   
 Ok I know I need to buy new screwdrivers.  I'm in the process of buying
 a set of Whia drivers.  I feel that the driver I've been using fits
 fairly well but the Whia set I have at work seem to fit a little
 better.  

 Anyway I'm starting to have issues with my bottom front panel after
 getting into this radio as many times as I have...  After the DVR, the
 audio low pass filter, several additions of filters, the sub RX, and
 every mod on the website (except for the resistor change for the P3)
 I'll be doing it when the P3 arrives...

 Anyway the center most screw position was the one giving me the most
 fits before.  This wasn't near as big of an issue when I didn't have the
 sub receiver.  But now that I have that piece in place being able to put
 a screwdriver on the top side has become much more work intensive. 

 I've also tried using lock-tite to hold the standoffs onto the screws
 from the board side so that Its very easy to remove the screws from the
 bottom and I figured if I ever had to replace the RF board that
 replacing a few standoffs at the same time would be easy...

 Anyway I've cammed out of some of the flat head screws ever so slightly
 here and there and Elecraft graciously provided me with a few
 replacements to get rid of the ones that were starting to look bad.  But
 this other issue is starting to get really quite ugly.

 I've gotten to the point where I no longer want to even try opening it
 because of how far I have too take it apart because of these issues.  I
 got an FM filter for Xmas and because the left front screw and the
 center most screw wouldn't come out of the bottom I ended up having to
 pull the front panel and the sub RX in order to install a filter.
 (granted the Sub RX had to come out partially to get the filter in place
 but had to come out all the way for the other work).  

 Anyway I think I'd like to replace some of these parts with new ones as
 the excessive use and attempts with lock-tite have been less than
 successful.  I'm wondering if I should try to make up a BOM of what I
 need from the Elecraft manual (using elecraft part numbers of course)
 and then place an order or if I should just head to my parts catalog
 house and try there.  

 Finally my last question quite concerns me  I've noted that from
 several applications on and off that the board has gotten scratched here
 and there around the screw holes.  Being that these are commonly ground
 points I'm quite worried that I'm not getting the grounding that I
 should...  Just after installing the FM filter I noted that when I plug
 my mic into the front panel that I get about a .5S unit drop in noise
 level when the mic is plugged in.  Granted I think this is the first
 time I've even listened to the radio w/ the mic unplugged (even though I
 rarely ever use it)...  But this makes me wonder what may be up here
 FWIW I have put shorting wires around the L's in the back for the
 Improving the immunity of the Rear-Panel RS232 and Audio Connectors to
 RF modification.  
 
 __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread Paul Christensen

 Oh yeah,  get some new, quality screw drivers..

Excellent advice and probably one of the best investments made when 
assembling or performing work on the K3.  At first, I purchased new #0 and 
#1 Phillips-head drivers from Klein Tools.  The K3 assembly manual warns 
against the use of power screwdrivers although I'm now using a convertible 
Makita model DF010DSE with an auto-stop clutch.  At the most sensitive 
clutch settings, it's wholly appropriate for working on the K3.

If anyone is thinking about using a power screwdriver despite Elecraft's 
advisory notice, ensure that it has a clutch (preferably auto-stop), and try 
to find a model that also has a variable-speed motor to control the start of 
the screw.  I manually start the screw with the Makita, feeling for any 
resistance, then apply low RPM power with the clutch engaged.

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode



  A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
 TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose 
 - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like 
 CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think 
 it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on 
 demand.  It seems like this model may work for the Quadra 
 application too, without having researched it at all.

While repurposing the TX Inh pin has appear for non-Quadra users, 
it is a step backward when the Quadra or FL-7000 is used since 
both of those amplifiers utilize the inhibit input (Linear 
in most Yaesu manuals).   

If an antenna tuner has an output that holds causes the transceiver 
to generate a carrier, there is no reason that it can't be tied to 
the key jack as long as the K3 will generate a carrier whenever 
the Key jack is closed.  

If DigOut 0 could be used to generate a 750 ms (greater than 600 
msec) contact closure to ground if ATU Tune is pressed when the 
KAT3 is not fitted or is turned off - preferably on a per antenna, 
per band basis, and set the power level to the Tune level for 
that transmission only - if the Key In jack generated a carrier 
on all modes, the K3 would be instantly compatible with any tuner 
that used the Icom AH-3/AH-4 interface and could use the ATU Tune 
button to initiate tuning.

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   
 


 -Original Message-
 From: dse...@dseven.org [mailto:dse...@dseven.org] On Behalf
 Of Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 3:02 PM
 To: li...@subich.com
 Cc: Mike K2MK; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
 
 
 On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 6:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV
 li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
  The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in AFSK A.
  Did I misunderstand the question?
 
  Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question.
 
  The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F
 Set button on
  the Quadra is pressed.  The T-F button causes the Quadra tuner to
  retune, etc. if it is pressed and the amplifier gets at 
 least 75 Watts
  drive.
 
  If the K3's Key (straight key) input were active in data
 modes, the
  T-F output from the Quadra could be connected to the Key
 jack and the
  K3/Quadra interaction would be fully automatic (if one used
 the N0SS
  designed cable) just as it is with any of the Yaesu transceivers.
 
  Unfortunately, the K3 does not have an unused DigIn line
 that could be
  used as a dedicated T-F input but enabling the Key input in all
  remaining modes (Data, AM, and FM) would be an entirely 
 satisfactory
  solution.  If closing that contact were to use Tune PWR in
  Data/AM/FM, it would be icing on the cake.
 
 I have an automatic antenna tuner that can tell the rig
 when to transmit, for retuning purposes. A while back, I made 
 a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the TX inhibit pin on 
 the ACC port could be given another purpose - to invoke 
 TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like CONFIG:TX 
 INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think it wasn't 
 a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on demand. 
 It seems like this model may work for the Quadra application 
 too, without having researched it at all. If there's enough 
 demand, maybe it could be reprioritised...
 
 ~Iain / N6ML

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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 1:28 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:


  A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
 TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
 - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like
 CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think
 it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on
 demand.  It seems like this model may work for the Quadra
 application too, without having researched it at all.

 While repurposing the TX Inh pin has appear for non-Quadra users,
 it is a step backward when the Quadra or FL-7000 is used since
 both of those amplifiers utilize the inhibit input (Linear
 in most Yaesu manuals).

OK.


 If an antenna tuner has an output that holds causes the transceiver
 to generate a carrier, there is no reason that it can't be tied to
 the key jack as long as the K3 will generate a carrier whenever
 the Key jack is closed.

Except that that produces full output power, where I want CONFIG:TUN
PWR (which is not not nor).

~Iain / N6ML



 If DigOut 0 could be used to generate a 750 ms (greater than 600
 msec) contact closure to ground if ATU Tune is pressed when the
 KAT3 is not fitted or is turned off - preferably on a per antenna,
 per band basis, and set the power level to the Tune level for
 that transmission only - if the Key In jack generated a carrier
 on all modes, the K3 would be instantly compatible with any tuner
 that used the Icom AH-3/AH-4 interface and could use the ATU Tune
 button to initiate tuning.

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV




 -Original Message-
 From: dse...@dseven.org [mailto:dse...@dseven.org] On Behalf
 Of Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 3:02 PM
 To: li...@subich.com
 Cc: Mike K2MK; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode


 On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 6:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV
 li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
  The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least in AFSK A.
  Did I misunderstand the question?
 
  Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question.
 
  The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F
 Set button on
  the Quadra is pressed.  The T-F button causes the Quadra tuner to
  retune, etc. if it is pressed and the amplifier gets at
 least 75 Watts
  drive.
 
  If the K3's Key (straight key) input were active in data
 modes, the
  T-F output from the Quadra could be connected to the Key
 jack and the
  K3/Quadra interaction would be fully automatic (if one used
 the N0SS
  designed cable) just as it is with any of the Yaesu transceivers.
 
  Unfortunately, the K3 does not have an unused DigIn line
 that could be
  used as a dedicated T-F input but enabling the Key input in all
  remaining modes (Data, AM, and FM) would be an entirely
 satisfactory
  solution.  If closing that contact were to use Tune PWR in
  Data/AM/FM, it would be icing on the cake.

 I have an automatic antenna tuner that can tell the rig
 when to transmit, for retuning purposes. A while back, I made
 a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the TX inhibit pin on
 the ACC port could be given another purpose - to invoke
 TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like CONFIG:TX
 INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think it wasn't
 a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on demand.
 It seems like this model may work for the Quadra application
 too, without having researched it at all. If there's enough
 demand, maybe it could be reprioritised...

     ~Iain / N6ML


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 needs survey -- firmware and application software

2009-12-30 Thread Joe Planisky

Hi Wayne,

One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT situation  
and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is  
showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I  
understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR  
PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off seems a  
step too far.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Dec 23, 2009, at 10:02 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 As we head into 2010, we'd like to refresh the master firmware list
 based on your input.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 needs survey -- firmware and application software

I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent origin.

Dunc, W5DC

Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Wayne,

 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT situation  
 and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is  
 showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I  
 understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR  
 PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off seems a  
 step too far.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP

 On Dec 23, 2009, at 10:02 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

   
 As we head into 2010, we'd like to refresh the master firmware list
 based on your input.
 
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[Elecraft] Panadapter

2009-12-30 Thread Richard Thorpe

OK guys early 2010  is just a day away, when can we order our  
panadapters?

R Thorpe KD6LAZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 needs survey -- firmware and application software

2009-12-30 Thread Grant Youngman

Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the error message 
appears?  

Grant/NQ5T

On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:

 I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent origin.
 
 Dunc, W5DC
 
 Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Wayne,
 
 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT situation  
 and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is  
 showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I  
 understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR  
 PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off seems a  
 step too far.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 needs survey -- firmware and application software

No, when it's happened on my K3, the PTT line should be open/clear and 
neither is a key line. 

Dunc, W5DC

Grant Youngman wrote:
 Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the error 
 message appears?  

 Grant/NQ5T

 On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:

   
 I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent origin.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Joe Planisky wrote:
 
 Hi Wayne,

 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT situation  
 and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is  
 showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I  
 understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR  
 PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off seems a  
 step too far.
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 needs survey -- firmware and application software

Pardon my bad grammar.  When this happens on start-up, the PTT line from 
the mike is not closed and neither is any key line.

Duncan Carter wrote:
 No, when it's happened on my K3, the PTT line should be open/clear and 
 neither is a key line. 

 Dunc, W5DC

 Grant Youngman wrote:
   
 Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the error 
 message appears?  

 Grant/NQ5T

 On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:

   
 
 I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent origin.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Joe Planisky wrote:
 
   
 Hi Wayne,

 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT situation  
 and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is  
 showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I  
 understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR  
 PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off seems a  
 step too far.
   
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Gary Hinson

   A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
  TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose 
  - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like 
  CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think 
  it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on 
  demand.  It seems like this model may work for the Quadra 
  application too, without having researched it at all.
 
 While repurposing the TX Inh pin has appear for non-Quadra users, 
 it is a step backward 

Sounds to me like an inadvisable combination of controls sharing the one line: 
TX inhibit and key TX
clearly are opposites.  If someone accidentally misconfigures their K3 (not 
altogether unlikely),
this could get messy if a TX inhibit command actually keys the rig.

I'm not arguing against the facility to tune the rig if that's what you really 
need, just not on the
TX inhibit line.

73
Gary  ZL2iFB

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[Elecraft] [K3] Protection for AUX-RF?

2009-12-30 Thread Ken Kopp

Perhaps overkill due to the K3's internal  protection circuit, 
but I use an ICE Model 196 on both my K3 and K2.

They're available from Array Solutions and others.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
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[Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Ken Roberson

Hello all,

Looks like it would be easy to change firmware to
allow cw in data mode.
This may need more than one fix.

Thanks to all HNY Ken K5DNL




  
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[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft MD2 desk microphone with CB-1 Classic base

2009-12-30 Thread NZ8J

It is in excellent condition, works great with the K3. I have the
original boxes for the mic and base. I will ship and insure in the US
for $139.00.
Prefer PayPal or US postal money order. 
Thanks 
Tim
NZ8J
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode

2009-12-30 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML

On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:53 PM, Gary Hinson g...@isect.com wrote:
   A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the
  TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
  - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like
  CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think
  it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based on
  demand.  It seems like this model may work for the Quadra
  application too, without having researched it at all.

 While repurposing the TX Inh pin has appear for non-Quadra users,
 it is a step backward

 Sounds to me like an inadvisable combination of controls sharing the one 
 line: TX inhibit and key TX
 clearly are opposites.  If someone accidentally misconfigures their K3 (not 
 altogether unlikely),
 this could get messy if a TX inhibit command actually keys the rig.

Fair point.. whilst I'm not a fan of wrapping everything in
cotton-wool, I can see how that could lead to an expensive oops!.


 I'm not arguing against the facility to tune the rig if that's what you 
 really need, just not on the
 TX inhibit line.

There doesn't appear to be any other input line that could be used for
this purpose, though :/

~Iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] ERR PTT

2009-12-30 Thread Joe Planisky

Hi Dunc,

Are you saying that you got the ERR PTT indication when nothing was  
connected to the rig or at least you couldn't find a definite cause  
for it?  That's what happened to me.  I was getting ERR PTT with  
absolutely nothing but power and antenna connected to the rig.  After  
partial disassembly for inspection, everything started working again.   
I never did find a definite cause.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:51 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:

 Pardon my bad grammar.  When this happens on start-up, the PTT line  
 from
 the mike is not closed and neither is any key line.

 Duncan Carter wrote:
 No, when it's happened on my K3, the PTT line should be open/clear  
 and
 neither is a key line.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Grant Youngman wrote:

 Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the  
 error message appears?

 Grant/NQ5T

 On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:



 I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of  
 recent origin.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Joe Planisky wrote:


 Hi Wayne,

 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT  
 situation
 and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is
 showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I
 understand the need to disable most all functionality until the  
 ERR
 PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off  
 seems a
 step too far.


 __

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR PTT

It's an occasional problem that started after a recent firmware upgrade 
and happens with nothing connected.  It clears after I stop and re-start 
the power supply, stopping the power supply being required because 
nothing else has any effect, and then tap the power button.  So far, 
it's not enough of a problem to warrant any dis-assembly. 

Dunc, W5DC

Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Dunc,

 Are you saying that you got the ERR PTT indication when nothing was 
 connected to the rig or at least you couldn't find a definite cause 
 for it?  That's what happened to me.  I was getting ERR PTT with 
 absolutely nothing but power and antenna connected to the rig.  After 
 partial disassembly for inspection, everything started working again.  
 I never did find a definite cause.

 73
 -- 
 Joe KB8AP

 On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:51 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:

 Pardon my bad grammar.  When this happens on start-up, the PTT line from
 the mike is not closed and neither is any key line.

 Duncan Carter wrote:
 No, when it's happened on my K3, the PTT line should be open/clear and
 neither is a key line.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Grant Youngman wrote:

 Does the ERR PTT go away if the PTT line is unasserted after the 
 error message appears?

 Grant/NQ5T

 On Dec 30, 2009, at 4:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:



 I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent 
 origin.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Joe Planisky wrote:


 Hi Wayne,

 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT situation
 and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR PTT is
 showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER button.  I
 understand the need to disable most all functionality until the ERR
 PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn the rig off 
 seems a
 step too far.


 __



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[Elecraft] audio clips to share

2009-12-30 Thread Hector Padron

If you guys want to share your audio clips,settings,etc my new website is done 
deal at www.ad4c.us, just send me whatever you want all us to see or hear and I 
will upload it to it,I have unlimited capacity,so anything can be uploaded,even 
a movie about the K3.
 
AD4C
 


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3


  
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[Elecraft] No Output Power on K3

2009-12-30 Thread Bob Wehking

I purchased my K3 when they first came out  I remember that it would
putout RF. I've been away from the hobby for a while  I can't get any
RF out. When in CW mode, when I key the radio, I hear a tone, the TX led
does not come on  I can adjust the power knob  very the setting past
100 watts. There is no indication of power on the digital readout or a
wattmeter connected to the rig. It must be some setting?
 
Bob
WB8DDI
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Re: [Elecraft] No Output Power on K3

2009-12-30 Thread Bruce Beford

Make sure VOX is turned on.
-Bruce N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] Panadapter

2009-12-30 Thread Bruce Beford

Anytime before the middle of 2010 is early 2010. What's the hurry? When
it's ready, they'll say so.
-Bruce N1RX


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[Elecraft] Recall: No Output Power on K3

2009-12-30 Thread Bob Wehking

Bob Wehking would like to recall the message, [Elecraft] No Output Power on 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode



 Except that that produces full output power, where I want 
 CONFIG:TUN PWR (which is not not nor).

You notice my proposal to use the ATU Tun (tap) to start the 
tuning process and use the Tun Pwr setting.  That resolves the 
power level issue. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: dse...@dseven.org [mailto:dse...@dseven.org] On Behalf 
 Of Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 4:54 PM
 To: li...@subich.com
 Cc: Mike K2MK; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
 
 
 On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 1:28 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV 
 li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
   A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the TX 
  inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
  - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like 
 CONFIG:TX 
  INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think it wasn't a bad 
  idea, but would be very low priority, based on demand.  It 
 seems like 
  this model may work for the Quadra application too, without having 
  researched it at all.
 
  While repurposing the TX Inh pin has appear for 
 non-Quadra users, it 
  is a step backward when the Quadra or FL-7000 is used since both of 
  those amplifiers utilize the inhibit input (Linear in most Yaesu 
  manuals).
 
 OK.
 
 
  If an antenna tuner has an output that holds causes the 
 transceiver to 
  generate a carrier, there is no reason that it can't be tied to the 
  key jack as long as the K3 will generate a carrier 
 whenever the Key 
  jack is closed.
 
 Except that that produces full output power, where I want 
 CONFIG:TUN PWR (which is not not nor).
 
 ~Iain / N6ML
 
 
 
  If DigOut 0 could be used to generate a 750 ms (greater than 600
  msec) contact closure to ground if ATU Tune is pressed when 
 the KAT3 
  is not fitted or is turned off - preferably on a per 
 antenna, per band 
  basis, and set the power level to the Tune level for that 
  transmission only - if the Key In jack generated a carrier on all 
  modes, the K3 would be instantly compatible with any tuner 
 that used 
  the Icom AH-3/AH-4 interface and could use the ATU Tune button to 
  initiate tuning.
 
  73,
 
    ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: dse...@dseven.org [mailto:dse...@dseven.org] On 
 Behalf Of Iain 
  MacDonnell - N6ML
  Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 3:02 PM
  To: li...@subich.com
  Cc: Mike K2MK; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
 
 
  On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 6:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV 
 li...@subich.com 
  wrote:
  
  
   The K3 tune button already works in Data mode. At least 
 in AFSK A. 
   Did I misunderstand the question?
  
   Yes, you misunderstood the purpose of the question.
  
   The Yaesu Quadra provides a contact closure when the T-F
  Set button on
   the Quadra is pressed.  The T-F button causes the Quadra 
 tuner to 
   retune, etc. if it is pressed and the amplifier gets at
  least 75 Watts
   drive.
  
   If the K3's Key (straight key) input were active in data
  modes, the
   T-F output from the Quadra could be connected to the Key
  jack and the
   K3/Quadra interaction would be fully automatic (if one used
  the N0SS
   designed cable) just as it is with any of the Yaesu transceivers.
  
   Unfortunately, the K3 does not have an unused DigIn line
  that could be
   used as a dedicated T-F input but enabling the Key 
 input in all 
   remaining modes (Data, AM, and FM) would be an entirely
  satisfactory
   solution.  If closing that contact were to use Tune PWR in 
   Data/AM/FM, it would be icing on the cake.
 
  I have an automatic antenna tuner that can tell the rig when to 
  transmit, for retuning purposes. A while back, I made a 
 suggestion to 
  Wayne that perhaps the TX inhibit pin on the ACC port could be 
  given another purpose - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a 
 new config 
  setting like CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne 
 seemed to 
  think it wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low 
 priority, based on 
  demand. It seems like this model may work for the Quadra 
 application
  too, without having researched it at all. If there's enough
  demand, maybe it could be reprioritised...
 
      ~Iain / N6ML
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode



 There doesn't appear to be any other input line that could be 
 used for this purpose, though :/

One might conceivably use multiple input lines ... while it 
would take some work, pull the FSK and Key lines low at the 
same time (diodes like the straight key/paddle fix for the 
K2).  I suspect the controller could be programmed to work with 
that.  If FSK and Key are inconvenient, how about Key and PTT? 
Again, as long as PTT proceeds Key input (when using computer 
keying), it should not be too difficult to distinguish between 
normal operation and external tune ... 

I only avoid the Inh line because of the conflict with its 
use for Inhibit and its alternate function K3 on for XVTR 
use.  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Iain 
 MacDonnell - N6ML
 Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 6:26 PM
 To: Gary Hinson
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3_CW_Data_Mode
 
 
 On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 2:53 PM, Gary Hinson g...@isect.com wrote:
    A while back, I made a suggestion to Wayne that perhaps the TX 
   inhibit pin on the ACC port could be given another purpose
   - to invoke TUNE.  I envisaged a new config setting like 
   CONFIG:TX INH = HI=Tun or LO=Tun. Wayne seemed to think it 
   wasn't a bad idea, but would be very low priority, based 
 on demand.  
   It seems like this model may work for the Quadra 
 application too, 
   without having researched it at all.
 
  While repurposing the TX Inh pin has appear for 
 non-Quadra users, 
  it is a step backward
 
  Sounds to me like an inadvisable combination of controls 
 sharing the 
  one line: TX inhibit and key TX clearly are opposites.  If someone 
  accidentally misconfigures their K3 (not altogether unlikely), this 
  could get messy if a TX inhibit command actually keys the rig.
 
 Fair point.. whilst I'm not a fan of wrapping everything in 
 cotton-wool, I can see how that could lead to an expensive oops!.
 
 
  I'm not arguing against the facility to tune the rig if that's what 
  you really need, just not on the TX inhibit line.
 
 There doesn't appear to be any other input line that could be 
 used for this purpose, though :/
 
 ~Iain / N6ML 
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[Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

2009-12-30 Thread lstavenhagen


Hi all,

I'm considering building a K2, but here's my situation. I'd be a first-time
kit builder, I've never had the opportunity to build and the K2 looks like
it'd be great fun and a great learning experience. The K1 sounds like it's
the better choice for a first-time build, but the K2 matches what I need in
a radio a lot better.

So I guess my general question is, how much harder would a K2 be to build
over a K1? I.e. what are the gotchas with the K2 for a novice builder that
aren't in a K1?

I know this is kind of vague, but that's the only way I can think of to ask
the question. I think I'd still do OK if I took my time and got good tools
(I just ordered the recommended weller soldering station).

Thanks,
LS
W5QD 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/how-much-harder-to-build-K2-vs-K1-tp4234815p4234815.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] 回覆: [K2] how much harder to b uild: K2 vs K1?

2009-12-30 Thread Johnny Siu

much harder but manageable. Follow the manual step by step and have patience.
Don#39;t jump step. Don#39;t go to next section until you are all right.
Then, you will be there for your K2. 73 Johnny vr2xmc
Message sent by Nokia E71

lstavenhagen wrote:
Hi all,
I'm considering building a K2, but here's my situation. I'd be a first-time
kit builder, I've never had the opportunity to build and the K2 looks like
it'd be great fun and a great learning experience. The K1 sounds like it's
the better choice for a first-time build, but the K2 matches what I need in
a radio a lot better.
So I guess my general question is, how much harder would a K2 be to build
over a K1? I.e. what are the gotchas with the K2 for a novice builder that
aren't in a K1?
I know this is kind of vague, but that's the only way I can think of to ask
the question. I think I'd still do OK if I took my time and got good tools
(I just ordered the recommended weller soldering station).
Thanks,
LS
W5QD
--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/how-much-harder-to-build-K2-vs-K1-tp4234815p4234815.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

2009-12-30 Thread Craig D. Smith

I think you will find some sound advice on this forum, LS.  You raise a good
question.

I think the key is that you have done no significant kit building to date.
There is nothing fundamentally more difficult about building a K2 vs. a K1.
Both involve soldering lots of discrete components onto a PCB and then
following the instructions for test and alignment using relatively simple
test equipment.  The K2 process takes longer and can be more time consuming,
depending upon what options you select.  Then again, even the K1 has what
seems to be a never-ending pile of capacitors to install.  I've successfully
done both kits and have been pleased with the results.

Given where you are at with kit building, I'm going to suggest a third
alternative.  Start out by building some of the small inexpensive test
equipment kits that Elecraft offers, such as the dummy load, the 3 band
signal generator, a balun, the step attenuator, etc.  All of these will be
helpful no matter which transceiver you ultimately decide to build.  More
importantly, they will get you comfortable with following the Elecraft
instructions, soldering components, and testing a final product.  After you
have two or three of these kits under our belt, then start thinking about a
transceiver.

Along with your soldering iron, I would recommend that you invest up-front
in an anti-static mat and accessories, good screwdrivers and pliers, and a
dependable DVM intended for solid state equipment.

Whatever direction you decide on, don't be shy about asking for advice here.


73
 ... Craig  AC0DS



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

2009-12-30 Thread Ken Alexander

Hi There,

I don't know if the degree of difficulty is that much greater in a K2 compared 
to a K1; there's just a lot more of it to do.  In terms of the effort required 
to complete a kit, building a K2 might be equivalent to building three or four 
K1s and will take you that much longer.

There are so many outstanding resources on this reflector it would be almost 
impossible to fail if you are methodical and patient.  That said, I'd go 
straight for the K2.  You're going to end up there eventually!  ;-)

73,

Ken Alexander
VE3HLS


--- On Thu, 12/31/09, lstavenhagen lstavenha...@hotmail.com wrote:

 From: lstavenhagen lstavenha...@hotmail.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] [K2]  how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 1:27 AM
 
 Hi all,
 
 I'm considering building a K2, but here's my situation. I'd
 be a first-time
 kit builder, I've never had the opportunity to build and
 the K2 looks like
 it'd be great fun and a great learning experience. The K1
 sounds like it's
 the better choice for a first-time build, but the K2
 matches what I need in
 a radio a lot better.
 
 So I guess my general question is, how much harder would a
 K2 be to build
 over a K1? I.e. what are the gotchas with the K2 for a
 novice builder that
 aren't in a K1?
 
 I know this is kind of vague, but that's the only way I can
 think of to ask
 the question. I think I'd still do OK if I took my time and
 got good tools
 (I just ordered the recommended weller soldering station).
 
 Thanks,
 LS
 W5QD 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/how-much-harder-to-build-K2-vs-K1-tp4234815p4234815.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

LS,

All kits go together the same way, 1 part at a time.
The K2 has more parts, but there are interim checks that tell you that 
all is OK.

Any kit has two requirements - 1)  that you can do a good job of 
soldering - see the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if you 
have any questions about your ability.  2) that you can follow written 
instructions.  Do not skip, work from the beginning of the manual to the 
end.

Those same cautions apply to the K1 or the K2 or to any kit.  If your 
desire is for the K2, then go for it.  Resist the temptation to work 
when you are tired, inventory the components before building a section, 
and make sure the parts do not 'jump' into the wrong holes, and the 
result will be a great working radio.

73,
Don W3FPR

lstavenhagen wrote:
 Hi all,

 I'm considering building a K2, but here's my situation. I'd be a first-time
 kit builder, I've never had the opportunity to build and the K2 looks like
 it'd be great fun and a great learning experience. The K1 sounds like it's
 the better choice for a first-time build, but the K2 matches what I need in
 a radio a lot better.

 So I guess my general question is, how much harder would a K2 be to build
 over a K1? I.e. what are the gotchas with the K2 for a novice builder that
 aren't in a K1?

 I know this is kind of vague, but that's the only way I can think of to ask
 the question. I think I'd still do OK if I took my time and got good tools
 (I just ordered the recommended weller soldering station).

 Thanks,
 LS
 W5QD 
   
   
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Re: [Elecraft] NR Revisited (trying again in plain text mode)

2009-12-30 Thread Philippe Trottet

Dear Wayne,
Its great !
Many thanks for your efforts.
Bst 73's
Philippe A65BI
K3#3616

 Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com 30-12-2009 21:54 
We're going to make NR per-mode in the next firmware release, too.  
This should eliminate the need to hunt for the ideal setting each time  
you change modes.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 29, 2009, at 5:17 PM, Chuck Guenther wrote:

 I've been pleasantly surprised at how well NR works even with
 very narrow CW bandwidths.  I routinely use a 250 Hz roofing filter
 followed by 250, 200, or 150 Hz DSP filters for Top Band.  The NR
 set around F1-2 or F1-3 quite often makes a difference for me.

 It wasn't always this way.

 Thanks to Elecraft for their continual upgrades via firmware!

 73,
 Chuck  NI0C
 K2-10 s/n 5853  K3 s/n 1061


 Joe, KB8AP, wrote:
  NR works best with wider bandwidths. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Bottom Front Panel Issues

2009-12-30 Thread Brett Howard

Well so I've ordered a set of Wiha Driver-Loc drivers.  I got the
ESD-Safe handle and a set of bits for pretty much everything I use.  

Ok with that taken care of I ordered replacement split washers, inside
tooth washers, black and nickel screws and new standoffs.  I also
ordered the stainless steel screw kit.  I take this K3 to the Oregon
coast (pretty much literally to the beach) for FD every year..  So the
stainless screws didn't seem like that bad of an idea (and it gets me
new screws for the bottom of the unit)...

I'll use a bit of heat to remove the screws with loc-tite on them and
I'll rebuild the thing w/o the loc-tite.  I think I'm also going to make
some copper tape discs to put around the screw holes where the boards
traces have been scratched.  I'll probably solder the discs to the board
around their outside to ensure good grounding. 

Figured while I was in there I ordered the Rev. D DSP board and I'll get
that all updated.  With all that and the P3 FD should be fun this
year... ;)

Thanks all

~Brett

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[Elecraft] AM 6K filter

2009-12-30 Thread Philippe Trottet

Dears,
Just installed the 6K filter and used the K3 utility. 
Can hear the difference on AM mode but, when pressed on XFIL it indicates 
normally 6.00 but if using the width knob, it indicate maximum 5.00 at the edge.
I missed something in the configuration ?
Your advises are welcome
Bst 73's
Philippe A65BI
K3#3616
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

2009-12-30 Thread Robert G. Strickland

LS...

As others have said, it's one piece at a time, one solder joint at a 
time. From that perspective, the K1 and K2 are identical. Some will say 
that the K1 is easier, but I think of it more as a simpler radio, 
not a simpler construction project. Some fine joy in how much can be 
accomplished by so little, and the K1 is a great example of that idea. 
If you are really looking for something of the K2's functionality, then 
build it.

I built some Heathkits back in the 50's, but they were nothing like the 
modern [more or less] construction found in the K2, So, I was pretty 
much starting from scratch. I inventoried all the part, laying them out 
with Scotch Tape on heavy paper stock with everything marked. I found a 
great way to wind toroids. I bought a very good desk assembly vice with 
two type of clamps. I bought some very good - and inexpensive - 
magnifying goggles. All these incidentals contributed to a more or less 
error free assembly. I made some mistakes, but they were primarily goofy 
mistakes, not because there was anything hard going on.

If you would like, I can send you some pictures of the parts pages, the 
toroid winding method, and the desk assembly area. This would give you 
an idea of the prep phase. It took me about a month working a few hours 
a night, about every other night. It was great fun, one of the best 
experiences I've ever had in ham radio. I'd do it again in a flash.

The K2 is the main transceiver here. I've added all the modules 
including the 100w amp. They all work perfectly. As mentioned elsewhere, 
the reflector is great for support at all levels. A real community. Go 
for it!

...robert


lstavenhagen wrote:
 Hi all,
 
 I'm considering building a K2, but here's my situation. I'd be a first-time
 kit builder, I've never had the opportunity to build and the K2 looks like
 it'd be great fun and a great learning experience. The K1 sounds like it's
 the better choice for a first-time build, but the K2 matches what I need in
 a radio a lot better.
 
 So I guess my general question is, how much harder would a K2 be to build
 over a K1? I.e. what are the gotchas with the K2 for a novice builder that
 aren't in a K1?
 
 I know this is kind of vague, but that's the only way I can think of to ask
 the question. I think I'd still do OK if I took my time and got good tools
 (I just ordered the recommended weller soldering station).
 
 Thanks,
 LS
 W5QD 

-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] K3: LPF, bass audio, new DSP board: Stirring the pot?

2009-12-30 Thread Don Rasmussen

Nobody at Elecraft has been able to explain to me why the new DSP board I 
received some time ago has had such a profound affect on my K3. It was not 
supposed to. Mainly, in improved AGC. Also improved uniformity of Rx Gain 
between my K3's #272 and #2308. The DSP board upgrade has been the single 
biggest improvement I've seen in the K3 since getting it 2 years ago. 

I saved all my previous firmware loads and took them all the way back with the 
new DSP board as a test. I could not make the K3 behave the way it used to (in 
a less desirable manner) with any of the old firmware or DSP loads. 

If you are not an AGC focused operator (most CW guys are), or if you use 
headphones - you may not notice to the extent that I did. But if you are - a 
DSP board upgrade would be a deal at twice the cost... IMO YMMV, etc. 


[Elecraft] K3: LPF, bass audio, new DSP board: Stirring the pot?

James Sarte k2qi.nyc at gmail.com 
Tue Dec 29 08:30:47 EST 2009
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pot?
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Jim,

This is the problem I've experienced, and why I think my receiver is
noisy.  I can hear a high frequency whine or tone that only gets worse if
I adjust the receive EQ to enhance voice intelligibility.  This can
make working weak signals fatiguing.  I should probably just cough up the
money and swap out DSP boards for a new one with an LPF installed.  However,
I'm not too thrilled about the unannounced price increase from 69 to 89
dollars.  Had I known, I would have ordered one earlier.

73 de James K2QI
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Re: [Elecraft] Panadapter

2009-12-30 Thread Wayne Burdick

We have several built and we're busy with a second round of  
improvements (mostly in firmware). We still can't put a date or price  
on it, but the engineering team is doing everything possible to get it  
into manufacturing.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

P.S.  It's really cool. You definitely want to borrow mine :)


On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:38 PM, Richard Thorpe wrote:

 OK guys early 2010  is just a day away, when can we order our
 panadapters?

 R Thorpe KD6LAZ

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR PTT

2009-12-30 Thread Wayne Burdick

Added to my list of things to check.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR

On Dec 30, 2009, at 2:18 PM, Duncan Carter wrote:

 I've found the same problem and this problem seems to be of recent  
 origin.

 Dunc, W5DC

 Joe Planisky wrote:
 Hi Wayne,

 One more item for your list.  I just ran into an ERR PTT  
 situation  and discovered that you can't turn the rig off while ERR  
 PTT is  showing.  I.e. it doesn't respond to pressing the POWER  
 button.  I  understand the need to disable most all functionality  
 until the ERR  PTT is cleared, but disabling the ability to turn  
 the rig off seems a  step too far.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP

 On Dec 23, 2009, at 10:02 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:


 As we head into 2010, we'd like to refresh the master firmware list
 based on your input.

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Re: [Elecraft] AM 6K filter