I like metal cupcake tins (muffin pans). They are shaped so it's easy to get
little parts out, and you can set them on your antistatic mat or connect them
to it.
--
Vic 4X6GP
On August 6, 2016 3:45:43 AM GMT+03:00, Edward R Cole
wrote:
>Hey folks, stop raiding your
My least favorite part is all the errata. Make all the notes in the
manual about where you have to look at the other piece of paper. You'll
see what I mean when you download the manual and the errata.
I'd suggest just-in-time printing and versioned manuals, but I don't run
the company.
On Fri,
Hi all,
I also like Brie and Camembert - yummy cheese!
My assembly practices differ from Ron's, I put all the hardware parts
into a tray (no dividers).
From previous experience from a 10 year woodworking career, I have a
very good idea of the difference between 3/16 inch and 1/4 inch as well
Egzactly Walter... that's the antenna arrangement I was thinking of back before
DX on the
"short waves" was discovered!
Thanks,
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter
Underwood
Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 5:23
Ha, Ha!!! Actually I do most of the cooking here and have a fondness for
Brie and Camembert cheese that comes in little circular wooden containers
about 4.5 inches in diameter and an inch high. They are my favorite parts
boxes. If I'm sorting a bunch of small screws by size, etc., I use many of
Hey folks, stop raiding your wife's kitchen; go to your local store
(Walmart is where I went) and look in the sports dept for tackle
boxes. You're likely to find similar clear plastic organizer boxes
for the home shop. I have several of them to hold and organize small
parts, hardware,
Some of the early “clothesline” antennas were a large capacity hat on a
vertical. If the antenna has one vertical wire connected to all of the top
wires, it is probably a capacity-loaded vertical. This Wikimedia image shows a
top-loaded vertical.
What Don says is quite right for the 1930's, 40's and onward. I was
describing the early antennas of the teens an 20's. They have but one wire
feed with several parallel wires the last few feet to connect to the
horizontal wires.
Once Hams moved quickly from 200 meters to 80, 40 and even the
Kevin,
While the magnetized screwdrivers may be a bit of a help for the K3/K3S
or KX3 build, I prefer to keep anything magnetized away from my
workbench. I do work with thru-hole components in the Elecraft legacy
gear and have bits of cutoff leads "afloat" on my workbench most of the
time.
And then the conversation gets terminated. I was enjoying the discussion
and learning from it. It's too bad there isn't an easy way to move
conversations strangely deemed off-topic or maybe boring to a few to a side
conversation for those still interested. Reading archives is for
librarians. Hams
Charlie,
A bit of history ---
Most of those ham antennas that used parallel wires were folded dipole
antennas - yes they were mostly 1/2 wavelength long. The feedpoint
impedance for that antenna is 300 ohms. Add a 3rd wire or a 4th and the
impedance increases. So to my mind, that was an
Ditto, and here's another vote for hemostats.
The first tool I acquired before building my K2 was a collection of
curved nose and straight 8" hemostats, smooth and serrated. I married
into a family full of doctors so the price was right and being stainless
steel won't ever rust. Second thing
A 1/2 wave radiator (a.k.a. "dipole") is the shortest 'self resonant'
radiator independent of the ground. By self-resonant I mean that it has zero
reactance.
Heinrich Hertz used a dipole in his demonstrations of electromagnetic waves
in the form of a 1/2 wave pipe bent nearly in a circle so the
early on the antenna would help define the operating frequency
spark made RF everywhere and the tank and antenna coupled
the RF to the operating frequency
Bob K3DJC
On Fri, 5 Aug 2016 18:41:57 -0400 "Charlie T, K3ICH"
writes:
> I'm curious as to when the concept of a ½ λ
Reading Elecraft Digest, vol 148 issue 10 was a delight
Extremely pleasant to follow the G5RV topics and all the assembly
advices. You sit back with a faint smile and a pleasant feeling of being part
of a
wonderful comradeship of Elecraft owners.
Thanks fellas
OZ5RB, Hans
Assembling a kit rig is just like any other important activity:
If you don't have time to do it right, you must find time to do it over.
73, Ron AC7AC
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Home:
I'm curious as to when the concept of a ½ λ dipole became the norm?
In other words, the idea of the current distribution as exists on a dipole.
Early pictures of typical ham antennas looked more like a set of parallel
clothesline wires.
What I gather from reading early articles, it seemed that
I just put one together over July 4th weekend. A lot of fun. Besides the very
good advice from others I would add the following. I would have some small
plastic divider boxes on hand for hardware sorting. The main RF board has most
of the hardware components, but you will have a number of sub
I would suggest a JIS screwdriver set. I found they fit better than
standard Phillips. They are more like a Fearson drive than Phillips.
73, Charlie k3ICH
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, August 05,
Tom,
If you built the KX3, it should be no problem. There is one 2-56 size
screw but the rest are 4-40 size. The #4 lockwasher is the smallest
part, so if you can handle that you will not have a problem.
Download the KXBC3 manual to get an idea of what is involved.
73,
Don W3FPR
On
The KXBC3 is very easy to install. As I remember, the trickiest bit was getting
the adhesive shield lined up right before I stuck it on.
Installation instructions are here, starting on page five. You can open up your
radio and look at the screws where it will go. I don’t remember them being
Greetings,
What I didn't order with the KX3 was the internal battery charger. Now
that I have the KX2 and know how handy it is to have the internal battery,
I'm considering getting the KXBC3 for my KX3.
What I need to know is how hard is it to install? I have advanced arthritis
in my fingers
I’ll chime in. I had never built anything previously. So, successfully
building the K3S gave me a great sense of accomplishment.
The assembly manual for the K3S is excellent. Follow it carefully.
I made 3 goofs during construction. No big problems, easily diagnosed by tech
support.
I
K1 is listed on eHam under ‘Transceivers’. Please contact me off list.
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This
>Pay very close attention to the screw lengths and sort them out
carefully...
>later you may need the 3/16" and the 1/4" is tooo long :)
Amen to that, brother!
After 50+ years of building radios, I built my K3 very carefully.
However, on completion, the output was very intermittent. Tapping on
>
>NOTHING in the process requires hammers or force...
>
That's a very good point to remember: EVERYTHING FITS CORRECTLY. If
something doesn't seem to fit quite right, you only need to line it up
better... then sure enough, it fits after all.
There were many other good points earlier, especially
For those not familiar with screw dimensions, pay attention to the
information on the right side of page 12 in the assembly manual. Flat
Head screws are measured from the top of the head to the bottom of the
threads while Pan Head (and round head and others) are measured from
the bottom of
"... If you are not accustomed to judging screw lengths accurately, use a
ruler to measure them. "
I just wanted to throw in my 2 cents:
Pay very close attention to the screw lengths and sort them out carefully. A
4-40x3/16" Pan Head might work when a 4-40x1/4" is called out, but later you
may
A little deoxit on the TMP connectors makes them slide in much easier, but
you must make sure they are lined up proper before applying force seat it
fully.
Earl, K4KAY
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Novas
Sent: Friday, August
Yes...
1) While awaiting its delivery, download all the latest PDF documents
for assembly and operation (sometimes combined) for each component in
your setup.
2) Read ALL of them.
3) Re-read the K3s assembly manual.
4) Make SURE you have all the required tools and materials on hand.
5) Upon
I have build two this year. Each took a few days to complete, only spending
a few hours each day on the project. I took over the dining room table,
with my wife's permission, spread everything out and check the inventory
before starting. All parts, especially screws, washers and nuts were sorted
And for heaven's sake, get a good anti-static pad and wrist strap!
George, W3HBM
On 8/5/2016 2:27 PM, Bob Novas wrote:
For me, the TMP connectors were hard, and installing the sub receiver was
hard. The rest was reasonably easy. Go slow and follow the advice in this
thread. Maybe someone
For me, the TMP connectors were hard, and installing the sub receiver was
hard. The rest was reasonably easy. Go slow and follow the advice in this
thread. Maybe someone else has words of wisdom on the TMP connectors. The
TMP connectors killed my fingers. I wound up using needle nose pliers to
Eric closed the G5RV thread, so I will change this subject as it is not
related to the G5RV.
On 8/5/2016 11:57 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
On 8/4/2016 4:00 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
It's true that tuner losses are the manufacturers' dirty little
secret. Loss is rarely specified, partly because it
In addition to Wayne's comments,
1) Do the parts inventory even though your fingers are itching to start
assembly. That's something many of us skip over and finding and identifying
each part before you start helps avoid confusion during assembly. There's no
"Argh!" moment as bad as
End of thread. (and related G5RV threads under similar subject lines..)
We are now at 27 G5RV posts in less than 24 hours, several time the limit for OT
posts. In the interest of relieving email overload for Elecraft focused readers
and others, please take further discussion off list.
May I suggest that you acquire from the XYL a bed sheet that will cover the
area of the floor that you and the assembly bench will occupy (maybe even
more). Nuts, bolts and other things that bounce when dropped do not bounce
on the sheet. A white sheet is preferable because radio stuff cannot
The UK does not have a monopoly on such folk, Alan. Just ask Tom,
K5RC/W7RN. 10 acres on a hilltop in an extremely rural area ... 3 1/2
years of legal battles with distant neighbors and the County government.
Tom prevailed, finally, and I operate his station remotely from time
to time.
On 8/4/2016 4:00 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
It's true that tuner losses are the manufacturers' dirty little
secret. Loss is rarely specified, partly because it can be pretty bad,
and partly because it is hard to measure, but also because it is not
constant - it depends on the particular impedance
End of thread.
We are now at 27 G5RV posts in less than 24 hours, several time the limit for OT
posts. In the interest of relieving email overload for Elecraft focused readers
and others, please take further discussion off list.
(Please self moderate in the future and end these OT threads
When I started in the hobby, I worked 150 countries before I found out a G5RV
didn't work. Took it down and haven't used it since.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, William Lagerberg wrote:
>
> And you now dear list users, i have a G5RV and i really
The open wire feed line on the G5RV is a matching section for 20 meters so it's
length and impedance is critical That's why the ADs say it works on 20 but
needs antenna tuner for other bands.
The same technique is used on the Butternut vertical only it uses 14 feet of 75
ohm cable.
Ray
W8LYJ
The problem with every one of these antenna discussions is that some of
us are looking for a reasonable set of compromises, and that discussion
tends to get lost in the "this antenna ain't perfect!" discussion that
invariably results.
When I bought this house, I knew the lot size, and I saw
All are excellent bits of advice, especially 6 and 7. Make sure you download
the K3s manual and not the K3, and have fun. I enjoyed building mine, but I
went too fast. Enjoy it.
AJ4YA
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 5, 2016, at 10:50, Peter Pauly wrote:
>
> 6. Use a muffin
And you now dear list users, i have a G5RV and i really love it it works
allways, and give’s me good results :-))
Just have to say that.
Regards William PE1BSB
> On 05 Aug 2016, at 16:58, Phil Wheeler wrote:
>
> Alas, the poor G5RV. Now that its been flogged to death,
Back in the day, I put up a wire antenna with a single set of traps and
worked all bands. Had a great time with it. I don't see those traps
anymore, but, I have not been looking too hard either. Would I go back
to a trap wire antenna? Yes, as a backup here or as primary in a smaller
place.
Make sure you use a quality anti-static mat with a wrist strap during
assembly.
The one I use is manufactured by 3M.
As Wayne says, follow the manual and don't skip steps. Check each step off
after you have completed it.
Depending on what options you purchased it will take several hours to
Alas, the poor G5RV. Now that its been flogged to
death, maybe we need a new target -- say the Windom?
Phil W7OX
On 8/4/16 10:22 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:
The tuner loss also depends on how it is
adjusted. For example the very popular high-pass
Tee with three adjustable elements has an
6. Use a muffin tin to separate all the screws types and parts.
7. Take your time. No need to finish it in one night. Stop when you get
tired so you don't make mistakes.
On Fri, Aug 5, 2016 at 10:43 AM, Nr4c wrote:
> 1/ Download the assembly manual and read it.
>
> 2/ Pay
Read the assembly instructions and follow them exactly as written.
Get a new #1 Phillips screwdriver to use.
If you are not accustomed to judging screw lengths accurately, use a
ruler to measure them.
In other words, just follow the instructions.
If you have problems understanding the
1/ Download the assembly manual and read it.
2/ Pay attention to the "Tools needed" section.
3/ Read the assembly manual.
4/ Download and read the Users Manual.
5/ Re-read both manuals.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Aug 5, 2016, at 10:05 AM, Wayne Michael
*/All good advice add a self clamping 6" tweezers to the list ...you
will be glad you did.
Regards
Art
ka9zap
/*
On 8/5/2016 9:43 AM, Nr4c wrote:
1/ Download the assembly manual and read it.
2/ Pay attention to the "Tools needed" section.
3/ Read the assembly manual.
4/ Download and
Any advise for a putting a K3S together?
Another Suggestion is to read the instruction book first then mark up any pages
that have amendments in order not to miss or undertake procedures.
73 de Tony G6GLP
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Get yourself a good pair of pointed tweezers. They will help your sanity as you
pick various size screws from whatever multi compartment carrier you segment
them the into.
Good luck n enjoy.
Joe
> On Aug 5, 2016, at 10:05, Wayne Michael wrote:
>
> Any advise for a
Hi Wayne,
Assembly is very straightforward, with very clear instructions, drawings, and
photos in the manual. The best advice is to read instructions carefully and
perform the steps in order.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Aug 5, 2016, at 7:05 AM, Wayne Michael wrote:
> Any
Any advise for a putting a K3S together?
I just ordered it.
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Post:
Alan,
I do understand the situation for those with limited antenna space and
restrictions. What I do not understand is the "magical" qualities that
have been attributed to many antennas. They are compromise antennas,
and I want everyone to understand that they are a compromise.
If a ham
> I collapse it down to 33ft6in.
Why bother?
Insert an 8' piece of fiberglass tubing in the top ... now you have a
50' +/- support. Install two 8' pieces of PVC or fiberglass tubing in
a horizontal cross at 30 to 35'. On one, run your 80 meter wire - tie
it back to the tip of the antenna and
I personally love the idea of a 43 foot vertical. I use the Dx Engineering
Thunderbolt for 60 meters, it is 1.5 inches at the top. I collapse it down
to 33ft6in. Gives a fully resonant antenna on 40. Add a 17.5 foot wire with
outrigger (pvc supported on vert by hose clamp) and now you have
Don,
With respect for your wisdom and your good advice, in the UK in particular
(home of the G5RV) the 'ordinary' ham has real-estate issues, big time!
Louis Varney's garden/back yard was of average British size, which is
actually quite small when compared to 'average' gardens that I've seen
Elecraft K3 For Sale at Discount Price
Good Afternoon,
I am looking to sell my K3. It has the most current firmware and has been used
in a non-smoking home.
K3-100 Transceiver, SN# 4805
The K3 has the following accessories!
KXV3A RX Ant, IF Out, Xverter Int.
KSYN3AUPG Ksyn3a Upgrade Kit
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