@Sven Wesley, the shown aluminum part, what is the top of the part, the top
of the block, or the next ledge?
On Wed, Oct 2, 2013 at 6:32 AM, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:
So far, I have realized a number of mistakes.
#1. I didn't wax the modeling board the first round, so the silicone
2013/10/3 Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net
@Sven Wesley, the shown aluminum part, what is the top of the part, the top
of the block, or the next ledge?
It's an open mold with a plug in the center (with vertical walls). The
outer pockets in short ends are holding the plug. Here are some dropbox
On Mon, 30 Sep 2013 17:33:55 -0700, you wrote:
On Mon, 2013-09-30 at 18:23 -0600, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
How about trying a different resin? Call Smooth-On and see if they have
any recommendations that may fit your needs.
Or perhaps an epoxy might work better? There are many manufacturers of
So far, I have realized a number of mistakes.
#1. I didn't wax the modeling board the first round, so the silicone
surface is much too porous. Because of this, the surface releases bubbles
during molding process and any residual moisture causes issues as well.
#2. The back suction action
My web filter is blocking flickr.
On Mon, Sep 30, 2013 at 9:29 PM, Sven Wesley svenne.d...@gmail.com wrote:
2013/10/1 Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net
Were you using aluminum? What type of draft did you use on the moulds?
Yes. Usually splitted molds or ejectors in the bottom that could be
I've made quite a few resin molds, I was working as a prototype technician
once upon a time and made a lot of parts in resin. We did both silicone and
metal molds, but we never poured the resin manually. I used a large vacuum
oven with mixing equipment inside, the internal dimensions were like a
Were you using aluminum? What type of draft did you use on the moulds?
This is the aftermath of the pressure tank test.
http://aercon.net/Public/pumppix/Air%20bubbled.JPG
This is the static mix pressure test, not sure exactly why the top corner
bubbled.
How about trying a different resin? Call Smooth-On and see if they have
any recommendations that may fit your needs.
Or perhaps an epoxy might work better? There are many manufacturers of
those. One that looks like they have some interesting products is West
Systems.
On Mon, 2013-09-30 at 18:23 -0600, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
How about trying a different resin? Call Smooth-On and see if they have
any recommendations that may fit your needs.
Or perhaps an epoxy might work better? There are many manufacturers of
those. One that looks like they have some
2013/10/1 Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net
Were you using aluminum? What type of draft did you use on the moulds?
Yes. Usually splitted molds or ejectors in the bottom that could be
manually knock the piece out. Another simple trick is to drill a small hole
and plug it with a tiny bit of clay at
2013/10/1 Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net
Were you using aluminum? What type of draft did you use on the moulds?
Yes. Usually splitted molds or ejectors in the bottom that could be
manually knock the piece out. Another simple trick is to drill a small hole
and plug it with a tiny bit of clay at
On 9/28/2013 11:42 PM, Kirk Wallace wrote:
On 09/28/2013 10:03 PM, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
... snip
To sorta on-topic this, one of the tasks I plan to put my mill to is
making prototypes of things in metal to use as masters for RTV molds to
make plastic castings.
... snip
I may be a little
On Sat, 2013-09-28 at 23:03 -0600, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
On 9/28/2013 5:16 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with plumbing
valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?
That's fine if you have the space and funds for a
30% hydrogen peroxide is normally available at hair dressers for bleaching
hair.
On Sun, Sep 29, 2013 at 11:30 AM, dave dengv...@charter.net wrote:
On Sat, 2013-09-28 at 23:03 -0600, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
On 9/28/2013 5:16 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
For the high speed vacuum, why not just
I have looked at similar machines, but 1 oz is about 4 or 5 oz too little.
I tried some pressure casting, it seemed to work. However, a day later
little surface bubbles are ruining some of the surface. It probably
because the molds are platinum rtv, which caused inhibition in the ie-3075,
which
For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with plumbing
valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?
On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 12:13 AM, Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com wrote:
On 9/27/2013 6:29 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
Do you think vacuum alone would pull
The current resin I use has a 50 second gel time. Its a little like flying
rc, if it gets ahead of you you are in trouble.
I wonder if a person could make a inlet control valve with a piece of
tubing and clamp, or special clamp? Something that would take about 15 psi
forward pressure to open
Did a vacuum pour test. Complete failure as far as I am concerned. The
small amount of air introduced in the connection, as well as the small
amount of air in the mix becomes an instant mini volcano.
One option that could work for me is a double pour. Does polyurethane
water tight seal on cold
On 9/28/2013 5:16 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
For the high speed vacuum, why not just use an external tank, with plumbing
valve or equivalent to switch to whichever has highest vacuum?
That's fine if you have the space and funds for a big tank, and a good
vacuum pump. I bought an old but excellent
On 9/28/2013 5:43 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
The current resin I use has a 50 second gel time. Its a little like flying
rc, if it gets ahead of you you are in trouble.
I wonder if a person could make a inlet control valve with a piece of
tubing and clamp, or special clamp? Something that would
On 9/28/2013 1:13 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
Did a vacuum pour test. Complete failure as far as I am concerned. The
small amount of air introduced in the connection, as well as the small
amount of air in the mix becomes an instant mini volcano.
One option that could work for me is a double
On 09/28/2013 10:03 PM, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
... snip
To sorta on-topic this, one of the tasks I plan to put my mill to is
making prototypes of things in metal to use as masters for RTV molds to
make plastic castings.
... snip
I may be a little biased, but this might be an option to resin
N. Christopher
On Sep 27, 2013, at 11:27, Erik Friesen e...@aercon.net wrote:
Has anyone here done much polyurethane resin pouring? I have been trying
to fine tune the process. Current process uses silicon moulds.
#1. Does it work to use aluminum moulds?
It does.
#2. Could it work
I don't see why they would outgas if the vacuum released in 5 seconds as it
entered the mold. In my experience it takes a bit for outgassing to happen.
On Fri, Sep 27, 2013 at 11:50 AM, N. Christopher Perry
n_christopher_pe...@me.com wrote:
N. Christopher
On Sep 27, 2013, at 11:27, Erik
I have made tons of molds and castings, ... literately.
Aluminum isn't a good choice especially with complicated parts. It doesn't
flex to release the molds. Typically with aluminum, it's automated and it
pushes the parts out with pins.
Exactly what do you hope to achieve in your fine process?
Exactly what do you hope to achieve in your fine process?
I hope to achieve void free castings. Pic 602 and 603 show problem area
around stator. 623-625 turned out somewhat ok, but molds pushed apart.
What issues are you having that make you want to change your process?
We are building a pump
Eric,
I started typing a response and after 2 long paragraphs, ... it became
clear I'll be typing for some time to answer you properly.
If you want, ... you can call me and I can answer or walk you through it.
Call me at; nine 0 nine /// 4 four six five 6 ;;; 5 seven
Bill
On Fri, Sep 27,
I don't know about aluminum molds but I found with small parts I was
casting that the bubbles would be eliminated by putting the mold in a
pressure chamber around 100 psi. I also tried vacuum which works good
for the silicon mold pours but not as good for the polyurethane.
Brian
On 09/27/2013
On 9/27/2013 9:27 AM, Erik Friesen wrote:
Has anyone here done much polyurethane resin pouring? I have been trying
to fine tune the process. Current process uses silicon moulds.
#1. Does it work to use aluminum moulds?
#2. Could it work to use high vacuum to eliminate air bubbles? I
Do you think vacuum alone would pull into every nook and cranny? I have
looked for other people that have tried something similar, but didn't find
much. By vacuum, my idea is to in some way place the mold under vacuum,
and fill it using atmospheric pressure, perhaps using some type of funnel
and
Some things to try.
1. Better keying of the mold halves. I cut an angle on the outer edge of
the first half, often with notches placed as needed to prevent any
misalignment lengthwise with the edges.
2. Clamping the mold together. Use two pieces of MDF, coated with clear
lacquer to seal them,
On 9/27/2013 6:29 PM, Erik Friesen wrote:
Do you think vacuum alone would pull into every nook and cranny? I have
looked for other people that have tried something similar, but didn't find
much. By vacuum, my idea is to in some way place the mold under vacuum,
and fill it using atmospheric
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