On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Jon Elson wrote:
>Gene Heskett wrote:
>> How about one of those water soluable magic markers with a felt tip about
>> 1/2" wide, those should work, and I've used them for that before.
>
>If you want to find interference in tight fits like tapers, that will
>probably wo
Andy Pugh wrote:
> Incidentally, this talk of dremels and lapping makes me wonder why?
> Have you tried a flat-scraper? They move a lot of material pretty
> quickly if you push.
>
A carbide scraper blade just danced off the bed on my Sheldon. It is
made from
something akin to tool steel, then
2009/10/29 Jon Elson :
> If you want to find interference in tight fits like tapers, that will
> probably work, but it is no good for
> wide, flat surfaces, as the PSI is extremely low.
You can use Engineers' Blue in two ways, but most economical is
transfer-on not rub-off. I am not sure there is
Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> How about one of those water soluable magic markers with a felt tip about
> 1/2" wide, those should work, and I've used them for that before.
>
>
If you want to find interference in tight fits like tapers, that will
probably work, but it is no good for
wide, flat surfac
> Incidentally, you might find your lathe parts a lot better
> with proper retainers, here is a hopefully self-explanatory
> sequence of me making mine. Note that no accurate setup was
> used, the final cut skims both top surfaces flush. There is a
> step on the brass bit to hold it in place.
>
2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
>>http://www.toolbench.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=MISENGBLUE
>>
> Cute. Too bad its on the east side of the pond.
Wikipedia on the subject of "Engineer's Blue" points out that in the
US both marking-out fluid and the paste are called "Engineer's blue"
and that there is sco
On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/28 Jon Elson :
>> The optimum stuff is Prussian Blue, but it is the messiset stuff in the
>> world,
>
>I believe the optimum stuff is "Stuart's Micrometer Blue" as that is
>specifically designed for the job of scraping-in machine slides.
>It i
On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Jon Elson wrote:
>Gene Heskett wrote:
>> I need to get some layout dye, its probably less mess than the magic
>> marker I've been using.
>
>The optimum stuff is Prussian Blue, but it is the messiset stuff in the
>world, stains your hands
>blue for two weeks until the s
On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
>> Yes, that is a given. But where does one normally put a 425 motor on
>> that small a saddle?
>
>Actually, good point. You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.
>Far better to buy a proper machine tool to convert, then
2009/10/28 Jon Elson :
> The optimum stuff is Prussian Blue, but it is the messiset stuff in the
> world,
I believe the optimum stuff is "Stuart's Micrometer Blue" as that is
specifically designed for the job of scraping-in machine slides.
It is densely pigmented grease and about as messy as that
Gene Heskett wrote:
> I need to get some layout dye, its probably less mess than the magic marker
> I've been using.
>
The optimum stuff is Prussian Blue, but it is the messiset stuff in the
world, stains your hands
blue for two weeks until the skin layer is replaced. I use Canode
water-solu
2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
> Yes, that is a given. But where does one normally put a 425 motor on that
> small a saddle?
Actually, good point. You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.
Far better to buy a proper machine tool to convert, then when you have
finished you can sell the toy lathe.
On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
>> My bed is wider and thicker over the last 2" on the right end, enough
>> that if I have it snugged down, I have to loosen the gibs to get it off.
>> PIMA!
>
>Are you sure it is thicker? Mine just had more paint on the be
2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
> My bed is wider and thicker over the last 2" on the right end, enough that
> if I have it snugged down, I have to loosen the gibs to get it off. PIMA!
Are you sure it is thicker? Mine just had more paint on the bearing
surface for the hold-down plates at that end
On Wednesday 28 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
>> I need to take the saddle off
>> again and see if I can actually make it set level and solid on the ways,
>
>When I checked my (cheap, chinese) lathe I found that each part of the
>saddle had been scraped-in to its bed way
2009/10/28 Gene Heskett :
> I need to take the saddle off
> again and see if I can actually make it set level and solid on the ways,
When I checked my (cheap, chinese) lathe I found that each part of the
saddle had been scraped-in to its bed way, but not so that they both
touched simultaneously.
On Tuesday 27 October 2009, Dave wrote:
>You may want to check out Nook also. If you can have the ends machined
>yourself you will save a lot of $.
>
I have looked at Nook. Prices seem ok, but again if I was to drop the card
for that much, I'd up the sizes and put in all in an X3. This one just
On Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:14:51 +, you wrote:
>2009/10/27 Dave :
>
>> You may want to check out Nook also. If you can have the ends machined
>> yourself you will save a lot of $.
>
>Machining ballscrew ends is fairly straightforward with CBN tipped
>tools. I bought a box of 10 from eBay.
>(This
2009/10/27 Dave :
> You may want to check out Nook also. If you can have the ends machined
> yourself you will save a lot of $.
Machining ballscrew ends is fairly straightforward with CBN tipped
tools. I bought a box of 10 from eBay.
(This is actually more than I needed, and I could be persuaded
You may want to check out Nook also. If you can have the ends machined
yourself you will save a lot of $.
The screws and the nuts are priced ok, it is the customization that costs.
Dave
Hubert Bahr wrote:
> Gene
> I used Roton
> http://www.roton.com/ballscrews-ballnuts-nav.aspx?line=Reci
On Monday 26 October 2009, Hubert Bahr wrote:
>Gene
>I used Roton
>http://www.roton.com/ballscrews-ballnuts-nav.aspx?line=Recirculating
>for both my X2 and X3 unfortunately I only found the 5/8 screws
>reasonable. Yes the ball nuts are a major cost as I use 2 for each
>axis. Nuts less than $
Gene
I used Roton
http://www.roton.com/ballscrews-ballnuts-nav.aspx?line=Recirculating
for both my X2 and X3 unfortunately I only found the 5/8 screws
reasonable. Yes the ball nuts are a major cost as I use 2 for each
axis. Nuts less than $25 each. I don't know how they would fit in an
On Monday 26 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/27 Gene Heskett :
>> So where does one get ball screws cheap enough to use on an X1 upgrade?
>
>Depends how cheap is cheap enough. eBay is one source, I got my 8mm
>Y-axis from there. I got the others from here:
>http://www.slidesandballscrews.co
2009/10/27 Gene Heskett :
> So where does one get ball screws cheap enough to use on an X1 upgrade?
Depends how cheap is cheap enough. eBay is one source, I got my 8mm
Y-axis from there. I got the others from here:
http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/r1605-ballscrew-p-120.htmlcPath=39&osCsid=a8fb3
On Monday 26 October 2009, Hubert Bahr wrote:
>Gene
>I was dissatisfied with both the speed and the backlash so I
>abandoned the stock screw and went to the ballscrew. I now arbitrarily
>set the max speed at 80" per minute. During this change I upgraded to
>the G540 drives as well. I haven't
Gene
I was dissatisfied with both the speed and the backlash so I
abandoned the stock screw and went to the ballscrew. I now arbitrarily
set the max speed at 80" per minute. During this change I upgraded to
the G540 drives as well. I haven't measured the force on the drill bit,
but can ea
On Monday 26 October 2009, Hubert Bahr wrote:
>Gene
>From the drift in this thread it sounds like you have an X2 using
>stock screws. In my case I abandoned the stock screws and went with
>lower cost rolled ball screws. I decided the X2 wasn't rigid enough to
>justify precision screws. Of co
Gene
From the drift in this thread it sounds like you have an X2 using
stock screws. In my case I abandoned the stock screws and went with
lower cost rolled ball screws. I decided the X2 wasn't rigid enough to
justify precision screws. Of course at 5 tpi I get plenty of
longitudinal moti
On Monday 26 October 2009, John Kasunich wrote:
>On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 13:01 -0500, "Steve Stallings"
>
> wrote:
>> The machine is loaned out at the moment, and I don't
>> have any pictures. The leadscrew was extended by
>> drilling and boring a hole in the end, and then pressing
>> in the turned dow
On Monday 26 October 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
>2009/10/25 Gene Heskett :
>> the Y
>> screw in particular is howling up a storm.
>
>Is it perfectly straight? I am wondering if it slender enough to be
> whipping?
>
1/2 inch, and I've had it out, looks straight. Can't see any wobble when it
turns if I
On Mon, 26 Oct 2009 13:01 -0500, "Steve Stallings"
wrote:
> The machine is loaned out at the moment, and I don't
> have any pictures. The leadscrew was extended by
> drilling and boring a hole in the end, and then pressing
> in the turned down end of the extension. The other
> end of the extens
On another list, I have seen suggestion to use motorcycle chain grease if grease
is insisted on. Mainly because it does not collect the fine dust
particles like regular
grease does. It is designed for use in a very 'dirty' environment.
Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] 2.3.3
>
> Dear Steve
>
>
> > I use an X1 style machine for my show demo unit. One thing
> that helped
> > an amazing amount at higher speeds was adding an outboard
> support to
> > the lead scre
Steve Stallings wrote:
> My guess is that the screw
> vibrates in the clearance in the nut and anchoring the
> outboard end significantly reduced the ability of the
> screw to move off axis as it vibrated.
Oh, wow! This sounds like an equivalent of bearing whirl, where the
journal starts rolling a
Dear Steve
> I use an X1 style machine for my show demo unit. One
> thing that helped an amazing amount at higher speeds
> was adding an outboard support to the lead screw. I
> cannot take credit for the idea, because frankly, I did
> not originally think it would help much. We have several
> gu
I have a customer who processes foam and the foam dust is corrosive.
They process the foam with saws in several locations in the plant and
they have become masters at using air blowoff and air pressurization to
keep the dust out of the machinery. I'd consider putting a small
blower in the ar
2009/10/25 Gene Heskett :
> the Y
> screw in particular is howling up a storm.
Is it perfectly straight? I am wondering if it slender enough to be whipping?
--
atp
--
Come build with us! The BlackBerry(R) Developer Co
easily done on the X2.
Regards,
Steve Stallings
> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:gene.hesk...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 5:43 PM
> To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
> Subject: [Emc-users] 2.3.3
>
> Greetings;
>
> It
On Monday 26 October 2009, Glenn Edwards wrote:
>Gene,
>
>Chris is right about the alignment being the place to start- make sure it's
>right before you move on. Second, what are the nut and screw materials?
>Brass on steel is normal, but if you have something different then keep
> that in mind. W
Gene,
Chris is right about the alignment being the place to start- make sure it's
right before you move on. Second, what are the nut and screw materials?
Brass on steel is normal, but if you have something different then keep that
in mind. While dry bearings do have their place, unless you are g
On Sunday 25 October 2009, Chris Epicier wrote:
>Gene
>
>> One other Q though. My x&y screws are 20 tip
>> acme, and its cooling down,
>> even with a heater running the machine is maybe at 55F
>> right now, and the Y
>> screw in particular is howling up a storm. Its wet,
>> quite wet with a mixtu
Gene
> One other Q though. My x&y screws are 20 tip
> acme, and its cooling down,
> even with a heater running the machine is maybe at 55F
> right now, and the Y
> screw in particular is howling up a storm. Its wet,
> quite wet with a mixture
> that is part STP and vactra. I've had this pr
Greetings;
It seems 2.3.3 works ok for me, thanks a bunch guys.
One other Q though. My x&y screws are 20 tip acme, and its cooling down,
even with a heater running the machine is maybe at 55F right now, and the Y
screw in particular is howling up a storm. Its wet, quite wet with a mixture
th
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