http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/fcgi-bin/db2www/descrPage.mac/descrPage?selLa
ng=EnglishindexClass=PICTURE_ENPID=GJ-1586numView=1ID_NUM=2thumbFile=%2
Ftmplobs%2FK1NDGRTTW_23_23OF3QT6.jpgembViewVer=lastcomeFrom=quicksorting=
nothumbId=6numResults=2tmCond=Allori+AlessandrosearchIndex=TAGFILENauth
Fran wrote:
The whole modern wearable art movement is an
outgrowth of DIY hippie crafts. I'm hoping to see the
DIY aspects, the loving-hands-at-home experiments,
revived as a foundation for a new generation of fiber
artists.
I reply:
Huh. My first encounters with fiber-arts came with my
Carolyn Kayta Barrows wrote:
When did off the rack clothes
become THE WAY to go, as opposed to just being what
people who couldn't afford to have clothes made for
them wore?
Probably as soon as they became plentiful and cheap.
Store bought clothing and household goods became a sign of
I know this isn't costume related and I am not one of the
popular people on this list, but I just couldn't keep
quiet. The message Bjarne sent sounded like he was more
surprised than critical, and give the guy credit - he writes
better English than most of us do Danish.
Carolyn said,
Berkeley, CA, and the 1960s. You see aging Hippies, and ones whose
parents were barely born in the 1960s, on the streets in Berkeley,
CA, even today.
I have an ageing hippie next door who just turned 40. :-) Do
you think, though, that the hippie styles in Berkeley are
I second that and Thank You Lalah for wording it so much better than I would
have/could have.
I can NOT imagine Bjarne ever being rude and I realize we've never met nor
probably ever will, but his whole demeanor online has always been respectful
IMHO.
Christine Gallucci
Lalah [EMAIL
On the topic of the south and hoop skirts Were the hoop skirts
popular later in the south then the north? I mean, our (ok, mine and I
am a typical yankee) picture of THE SOUTH is alweays with ladies in
hoops, but I would assume that the north had just as many ladies wearing
hoops at the
I did some extensive research on mid-19th century skirt supports (corded
petticoats, cage and covered crinolines, etc.) for a presentation last year.
Based on manufacturing and sales records, crinolines were widely available
and worn anywhere in the country, including the far west. This is amply
Jordana said,
On the topic of the south and hoop skirts Were the hoop skirts
popular later in the south then the north? I mean, our (ok, mine
and I am a typical yankee) picture of THE SOUTH is alweays with
ladies in hoops, but I would assume that the north had just as many
ladies
I disagree. For every extant pastel colored ballgown *documented* to the
South, I can show you one documented to the North, or the Midwest, or the
West, or Canada, or Europe. And I can do the same for every buttoned up
dress documented to the North or any other region of the country. There are
Oregon State University is also taking in hurricane displaced
students. We have both a theater and textiles program. It's a great
place to live, but I'm tremendously biased. :D
Althea
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May I echo Chris and Lalah, and further suggest (in the great American
tradition of free speech) that anyone who has shared hundreds of pieces of
useful costume information and dozens of beautiful and inspiring pictures of
finished costumes and works-in-progress can be considered to have earned
Off-the-rack clothes became THE WAY to go in the 1920s. Problem was,
during the depression of the 1930s and the war rationing and shortages
of the 1940s, a great many people had to home sew, restyle clothing, and
think up ways to use things like flour sacks just to get something to
wear.
I was looking at the way certain eras of fashion are associated
with an area, which is different than what people were actually
wearing. It's not the reality, it's what we perceive based on
movies, popular culture, etc.
Hippies were everywhere, but now identified with Berkeley.
Could someone walk me through the process of belting a houppelande just below
the bustline? How did they keep the belts there, without having it walk
itself down to the natural waistline? Was it tacked in places, and if so,
wouldn't that interfere with the drape? And how were they fastened
Fran wrote,
1950s dressmaking manuals told women they could make clothes that
would look just like RTW, so they didn't have to admit they home
sewed.
I worked in a clothing store in the early 1980s (got to look at
a lot of ready-made), and also took sewing/tailoring/design classes
in
BTW, my husband's answer to the question What did hippies wear? is
dense clouds of smoke.
Fran
Carol Kocian wrote:
I was looking at the way certain eras of fashion are associated
with an area, which is different than what people were actually
wearing. It's not the reality, it's
Jodi,
Thank you for your help. This has been a sad, sad, situation. But good
things are occurring daily.
You might want to contact your local Red Cross. They are coordinating the
people moving into other areas of the country. I talked with the chair of
our local chapter and he said they
I am sorry, I thought I had sent that off-list. My apologies.
Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Well to cover my posting of Univ. of MO. Univ. of MO, Columbia has a textile
college (Human Environment Sciences) and a theatre college. Stephens College
near by which has a major enrollment and focus with costuming and textiles
may join the ranks of assistance to students.
De
-Original
I missed the first post. What is RTW???
I used to never buy any clothing because I would always think...I can
make that. But of course I rarely got around to it. Then another
sewing friend of mine set me straight. Never make anything you can
buy-only make those things that you can't buy.
http://www.hermitagemuseum.org
click on English
go to quick search and type in A.Alessandro, click on go
scroll down to the paintings, click on next 5-16 matches
click on next 17 - 28 matches.
scroll down to #25
You probably have seen this. Someone has it on their website.
Eleanor has a high
I'm not sure what happened but the number switched. It is now #22.
De
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At 9:54 AM -0700 9/3/05, Kathryn Parke wrote:
Could someone walk me through the process of belting a houppelande
just below the bustline? How did they keep the belts there, without
having it walk itself down to the natural waistline? Was it
tacked in places, and if so, wouldn't that
Pardon me if this looks patronizing. It isn't. I am putting these down as I
try it out, hoping it works. I should have done it this way in the first
place instead of plastering that ridiculous URL in my message (it was late -
hangs head)
Go to http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/html_En/index.html
Fabrics that are woven or printed a disposition are designed for a
particular use or particular area in a garment, frequently along one edge of
a flounce. (Our modern border prints are a distant cousin.) They were
particularly popular during the mid-late 1850s, when the technology was at
its peak.
My apologies - I misunderstood what you were saying. :-)
Carolann Schmitt
On Behalf Of Carol Kocian
I was looking at the way certain eras of fashion are associated
with an area, which is different than what people were actually
wearing. It's not the reality, it's what we perceive
Lavolta Press wrote:
I'm wondering, though, if anyone on h-costume is making RTW clothes for
the boho market, perhaps selling on eBay? I'd think tiered crushed
velvet gypsy skirts and tunics with bell sleeves might sell well this
fall and winter.
I can't compete with China, unfortunately.
RTW=Ready-to-wear.
I've pretty much quit making modern fashion clothes. My motto is, as
well as making what I can't buy, to only buy things that I find
interesting, as a process, to make. So I do almost exclusively historic
clothes now . . . and, since I'm short, a lot of alterations of
A disposition means with a pattern printed or woven in, to be arranged a
certain way when making the garment. For example, you can get modern
border fabrics, with a special border intended to be used at the
bottom of a skirt.
Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
WickedFrau wrote:
It can be really amazing. I've been buying cotton gauze skirts from a
Thai seller whose eBay ID is aonneo. He (or she? I can't figure out the
gender from the name) sells them for as low as $8 apiece, never more
than $15. It depends on the skirt style and how well the auctions are
going.
As far as I know, there were not any texts available for more accurate
patterns despite what the writer had said -- at least, not by our 21st
century standards -- but if some of you who were doing historical sewing
in the 60s knew of any, please do post!
Hill and Bucknell's The Evolution of
1950s dressmaking manuals told women they could make clothes that would
look just like RTW, so they didn't have to admit they home sewed.
It was a big day in my brother's life when he stopped letting my mother sew
his shirts for him. That was about 1964.
Then, in the late 1960s and early
Read To Wear. I make a lot of my own clothes. In fact I'm getting to make a
wiggle dress. A lot of people in the goth and FrUiTs movement do their own
clothes. DIY clothing is really making a heavy duty stand. I just wrote a
really short blurb on it for my own zine I produce.
Bice
On 9/3/05,
On Sat, 3 Sep 2005, Kathryn Parke wrote:
Could someone walk me through the process of belting a houppelande
just below the bustline? How did they keep the belts there, without
having it walk itself down to the natural waistline?
In addition to the good advice already given, I've found it's
Norris's books were all under heavy pirated/photocopy circulation in the
SCA for many years. Norah Waugh's books start a bit past SCA period
but were all originally published from the mid 1960s to 1970. Janet
Arnold's _/Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their
Construction
Perhaps we have Scarlett O'Hara to thank for the hoopskirts,
especially the barer evening dress worn at the picnic. :-)
If you mean that ruffly short-sleeved white dress, I found the historical
image they must have taken that costume from. It was one of the hardest
things I ever did,
Fabrics that are woven or printed a disposition are designed for a
particular use or particular area in a garment, frequently along one edge of
a flounce. (Our modern border prints are a distant cousin.) They were
particularly popular during the mid-late 1850s, when the technology was at
its
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 12:51 PM
Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 564
Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web,
Ren. Faires started in the early 1960s, and their founder coined the
term living history.
Wasn't there some early connection with the SCA?
Still, there was a lot of DIY, which I don't think I'm seeing
currently as a mainstream movement.
Wearable art, while not being exactly
I've been thinking about layering the cotton ones, yes.
Although, as you guessed, I live in northern CA--San Francisco. I
believe it's been established that it was not Mark Twain who said that
the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco,
_somebody_ clearly did.
Fran
I would agree. Define wearable art. The DIY movement is VERY strong and VERY
mainstream. In particular among teenage girls. Just take a look at Etsy and
you'll see the demographics.
http://www.etsy.com/
The most popular thing to make right now in the reconstruct part of DIY is
t-shirts
Lavolta Press wrote:
Whatever you think of the authenticity of these books, their intention
is more serious than a brochure on constructing a beginning T-tunic
just to look acceptable at events.
Right you are. Thank you!
--
Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent
Such virtue hath my
If you see any velvet gypsy skirts (unworn, new) that are earthtones
rather than jewel tones, lemme know.
I agree about the price competition, but if it were something of higher
quality (cotton velvet instead of rayon, or rayon/silk devore velvet),
or different (interesting design and/or
While I know we were glad to get updates on people personally known on the
Gulf Coast, I think this exchange just proves that politics doesn't belong on
this list. We went through this before, and it got kind of nasty.
Ann Wass
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h-costume
It's pretty easy to put lace-up trimming down the front of a tank top.
BTW, that was a hippie style too. It's certainly heavily done in
ready-to-wear for the American junior market. In shopping malls and
online catalogs, I've seen a lot of ready-to-wear decorated T shirts
and tank tops.
I'm unsure if you've seen the corset t-shirts but what they are is
essentially the body of the t-shirt intact with pieces of fabric added
either on the front or back with grommets in. Then you lace just like a
corset. Some are really wild others are the basic style. Also the old add a
skirt to
I'd agree with your definition, except that I associate the term fiber
art with textile arts other than sewing. Whereas, to me wearable art
covers sewing, weaving, spinning, knitting, crochet, embroidery, the
whole spectrum. Oh, except a hanging or sculpture is fiber art, but not
wearable.
I'm guessing you've never encountered the perky goth subset of goth then.
A google search should give you more than a few areas to look. As for the
Lolita's looking innocent and sweet that's the whole idea. Sweet evil and
innocent *looking*. Then you have the harajuku girls of Gwen Stefani
http://www.hermitagemuseum.org
click on English
go to quick search and type in A.Alessandro, click on go
scroll down to the paintings, click on next 5-16 matches
click on next 17 - 28 matches.
scroll down to #25
You probably have seen this. Someone has it on their website.
Eleanor has a
It does look very different from the portraits that we are used to from
Bronzino. The hairstyle is so tight to the head. I just put it down to the
difference in artist's eyes. Also, I thought that the eyes of the girl did
look much like those I'm familiar with.
I can't wait to get my hands on
- Original Message -
From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 4:28 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] New to me Eleonora of Toledo
Pardon me if this looks patronizing. It isn't. I am putting these down as
I
try it out,
BTW, some jewelry is like wearable sculpture, and is made of metal,
stone, etc.
True, and there is also fiber jewelry.
I would call that wearable art too. Then there are cross-over folks
like Arlene Fisch who, in the 1970s, was making knitted silver wire
jewelry. And the
I missed the first part of this thread but this caught my eye.
In saying
Renaissance Faires, BTW, are another outgrowth of the hippie movement.
Fran
I come to understand that you may be saying that SCA came out of the
hippie movement. If I am understanding correctly, I would like to say that
SCA
I come to understand that you may be saying that SCA came out of the
hippie movement. If I am understanding correctly, I would like to say that
SCA was not an outgrowth of the hippie movement, it grew from a history club
at Berkley.
I thought the fantasy author Marion Zimmer Bradley was
The West Kingdom has a history page up. This link will take you to the
origins of the SCA. http://history.westkingdom.org/Year0/index.htm
There are numerous photos and such of the early days of the SCA available in
some of the sections for looking at. I browse this page every once in a
while.
Good question. This brings to mind the question of whether or not a
recreation of, say, a Worth gown is art. Certainly it was art the
first time, but is what we're doing also art?
I'm not sure it was even art the first time. Worth actually had a
fairly large concern and churned out
It's a very counterculture idea for the mid 1960s.
Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
Cynthia Virtue wrote:
I thought the fantasy author Marion Zimmer Bradley was supposed to
have started it.
She was part of it. The first SCA event was a goodbye party for
someone going off
It does look very different from the portraits that we are used to from
Bronzino. The hairstyle is so tight to the head. I just put it down to
the
difference in artist's eyes. Also, I thought that the eyes of the girl
did
look much like those I'm familiar with.
I can't wait to get my
It's my understanding that a little of each of these last two are
true. (As for the hippie connection, there's often an assumption that
anyone at Berkley in the late 60s must have been a hippie, but that's not
necessarily true. I suspect that hippie-ness, like most things, existed
on a
The wearing of a costume, attitude, posture and staying in character, is a
performance art in itself.
I totally forgot about performance art.
Here is another thought - if the outfit is upper class, in beautiful
silk with the perfect trimming, people will say art. What about the
Yes, I'd say pattern drafting, enlarging and altering a pattern to fit,
and designing are three (actually four) different tasks.
In my opinion, it's already designed, just needs to be researched
and put together with the appropriate accessories. But some people
consider patternmaking
If it's in an art museum then somebody must think it's art...
I think clothes of the past are regarded even by art museums as cultural
and historical artifacts (as well as, or instead of being art). They are
not necessarily chosen by the same criteria as modern artifacts. Many
'Sideless cotehardie' comes from Milia Davenport's
book.
Noticed the error right before I bought the book,
because it is still one of the few books with that
many contemporary-to-the-style pictures available.
And at least some of the early fifteenth century
pictures are from re-drawings, but
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