[h-cost] John Adams HBO series

2008-04-02 Thread Pierre & Sandy Pettinger
The servants were in part 4 - from this past  weekend - at the house 
they were residing at in France.

>Has anyone been watching the HBO series, "John Adams"?  What is your 
>general impression of:
>Costumes - both the principal characters and the general 
>populace/servants/etc.?

Sandy (and Pierre)

"Those Who Fail To Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly --
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
  -- C.Y. 4971

Andromeda  


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Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-02 Thread monica spence
Drea Leeds has the image on her site in Black and White:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.elizabethancostume.net/low
erclass/lcolor.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/fl
emish-dress.html&h=257&w=266&sz=69&hl=en&start=5&sig2=nrGtYqUjKybQHWDsCuquyw
&tbnid=FCajIe6J7IC0DM:&tbnh=109&tbnw=113&ei=GkL0R9XyJqmkpwTqoYG_DQ&prev=/ima
ges%3Fq%3DSixteenth%2Bcentury%2Bmiddle%2Bclass%2Bwomen%2B%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3De
n%26sa%3DG

Monica


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 10:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help finding image


I don't have an on-line source, but it's on page 80 of my 'Visual History of
Costume: The Sixteenth Century' by Jane Ashelford.

Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Rebecca Schmitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Alright - I thought I had one bookmarked, but cannot find it when I need it!
I am looking for an online source of the image which shows 4 or 5 English
women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something like
"countrywoman". If I'm not mixing up my images, she is carrying a basket
(with chickens) to take to market in town. One of the other women may be
"a citizen of London" Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a
link to this image somewhere?? Thank you!!!


***

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence

Bristol Renaissance Faire



My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash

***


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Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-02 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I don't have an on-line source, but it's on page 80 of my 'Visual History of 
Costume: The Sixteenth Century' by Jane Ashelford.
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- "Rebecca Schmitt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Alright - I thought I had one bookmarked, but cannot find it when I need it!
I am looking for an online source of the image which shows 4 or 5 English
women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something like
"countrywoman". If I'm not mixing up my images, she is carrying a basket
(with chickens) to take to market in town. One of the other women may be
"a citizen of London" Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a
link to this image somewhere?? Thank you!!!


***

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence

Bristol Renaissance Faire



My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash

***


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[h-cost] Menu Translation for Danish Living History Site - WOW!

2008-04-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I am sending this on for those of you who are interested in the Danish Living 
History Site.


To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 17:07:06 +0300
Subject: Re: [GermanRenCostume] Danish Living History Site - WOW!




















Ofcourse! No problem at all! :)
Swedish and Danish are very closely related so if you speak one you can read 
the other.
If there are any specifics you would need feel free to ask me for translations.
Right now I can't really write that much due to tendenitis, but I can do short 
stuff. :)


/Katheryn

2008/4/2, Saragrace Knauf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:




















Thank you so much Katheryn - would it be okay to send this translation to other 
lists?


Sg



To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 09:40:34 +0300
Subject: Re: [GermanRenCostume] Danish Living History Site - WOW!






Since I do read Danish I can at least translate the links on this page:
http://www.livinghistory.dk/index.html


1. Costumes on Epitafies (paintings/artwork of deceased) and gravestones
2. Painted Epitafies (paintings/artwork of deceased). (Burgher costumes from 
the 17:th century)
3. Painted Epitafies. (Nobility)
4. Statues (free standing Epitafies)

5. Other inventories
6.  Gravestones
7. Articles
8. 10 we can recommend
9. Cavalcade – the developement of costume
10.  Ruffle collar gallery (this type of collar is still used by priests in 
Denmark)


I hope this helps.
One thing to remember about Swedish, Danish and Norwegian:
If it says 1500-talet it means 16:th century. If it says 1600-talet it means 
17:th century and so on.

/Katheryn







 
. 
 








  





















  


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Re: [h-cost] Professional Pleaters - was Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Lynn Downward
Margo et al,

I am certain I remember someone on another list mentioning a year or two ago
that SF Pleating had moved to South San Francisco. However, in looking them
up in the on-line Yellow Pages, only the address on 2nd St, S.F. shows up
with the same phone number Margo mentioned.

My friend used SF Pleating a couple of times several years ago. She was very
pleased with the job they did. She finished both edges of the fabric before
sending it to them. Because it was short, yards of 6-7" fabric, they were
willing to cut costs and pleat two widths at once. We all know how bustle
gowns eat up pleating! No, I don't know the price.

LynnD

On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 11:42 AM, Margo Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> When I was doing wedding dresses, I used San Francisco Pleating Co.
> There were no minimums, they were fine with pleating a yard or less.
> Here's contact info:
>
> San Francisco Pleating Co.- 425 2nd St.,San Francisco, CA., 94107,
> (415)982-3003
> Custom pleating. They do knife, accordion, crystal, box, mushroom and
> sunburst pleating on your cloth. Send business sized (#10) SASE for
> brochure.
>
> Margo
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Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Regional accents, was Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Susan Carroll-Clark
Dianne wrote:
> Point was simply that it would be harder for an American to distinguish 
> between regional British accents, as it would be hard for someone from 
> England to distinguish between say, Michigan and Ohio. 

Those states in particular are a really good case in point.  There isn't 
an Ohio accent--there are three or four, at least.  There's the 
Cleveland/Northern accent (fairly nasal, somewhat akin to the typical 
Michigan accent), the Appalachian accent (SE part of the state, akin to 
West Virginia and eastern Kentucky), and two Midwestern accents --one a 
little more generic than the other (which involves people saying "warsh" 
for wash and "crick" for creek).  

Columbus, where I'm originally from, gets all four.

Susan

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Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-02 Thread Rebecca Schmitt
That's it!!! Thank you!!!

***
Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence
Bristol Renaissance Faire
 
My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash
***
 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dawn
> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 5:48 PM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help finding image
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> > women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something 
> > like "countrywoman". If I'm not mixing up my images, she is 
> carrying a 
> > basket (with chickens)
> 
> This one?
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-SGAPxUqpJAunP1FuPfR6g
> 
> 
> 
> Dawn
> 
> ___
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 121

2008-04-02 Thread CC2010Milw
In a message dated 4/2/2008 1:00:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> From: Andrew Trembley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Subject: Re:  [ h-cost]Making history hip
> To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >  
> >Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've  
> >though I was Scottish.
> >  
> >I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East.   *rolling  eyes*
> 
> 
> "But if you're from another planet, why do you sound like you're from 
> the North?"
> 
> "Lots of planets have a north!"
> 
> (Sorry, I had to...)
It's ok! I got it!

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/
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Re: [h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-02 Thread Dawn
Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
> women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something like
> "countrywoman". If I'm not mixing up my images, she is carrying a basket
> (with chickens) 

This one?

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-SGAPxUqpJAunP1FuPfR6g



Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] H-costumers at CostumeCon

2008-04-02 Thread CC2010Milw
In a message dated 4/1/2008 10:06:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> Subject: [h-cost] H-costumers at CostumeCon
> To: h-cost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> As probably the closest one to the Con (it's 2miles from my house) I
> thought I'd start the discussion. Who's going? Should we meet for tea
> &photo ops? Shall we wear our Scarlet Letters?
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Being the Spy that I am, I offer my table as a meeting post. I look forward 
to meeting you!
Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/
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[h-cost] Help finding image

2008-04-02 Thread Rebecca Schmitt
Alright - I thought I had one bookmarked, but cannot find it when I need it!
I am looking for an online source of the image which shows 4 or 5 English
women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something like
"countrywoman". If I'm not mixing up my images, she is carrying a basket
(with chickens) to take to market in town. One of the other women may be
"a citizen of London" Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a
link to this image somewhere?? Thank you!!!
 

***

Rebecca Schmitt

aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence

Bristol Renaissance Faire

 

My arms are too short to box with God.  --Johnny Cash

***

 
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Re: [h-cost] Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread CC2010Milw
In a message dated 4/1/2008 10:06:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 13:50:10 -0500
> From: Sarah Krans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip
> To: Historical Costume <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=US-ASCII;format=flowed;
> delsp=yes
> 
> And Kentucky is different than Tennessee.  :)  For the most part, the  
> same is said about every state/region.
> 
> Sarah K
> Wisconsin (but have been asked on a number of occasions if I were from  
> Canada!)

Nah! You're jus from da Sous Side, aina hey!  Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/
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Re: [h-cost] Dream Costume (was Making history hip (OT)

2008-04-02 Thread Katy Bishop
I made that dress years ago for a bride--she had the perfect figure
and personality for it.  When she first called me, after trying
several other bridal dressmakers, who had barely even heard of Gone
With The Wind, she was thrilled when I knew exactly the dress she was
talking about immediately.  She was so cute.  In deference to her
fiance's family we made it in pale pink, but it had all the feathers
and rhinestones.  I ended up just calling her Scarlett by the end of
our fittings.  There were some fun brides among the boring or
difficult ones.

Katy

On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 3:17 PM, Suzi Clarke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 21:01 02/04/2008, you wrote:
>
>  > > Can we get back to our regularly scheduled topic?  Here's a question
>  > > for you:  If you had sufficient resources to make your dream costume,
>  > > what would it be?
>  > > --cin
>  >
>  >LOL! It would be made by someone else, of course!
>  >
>  >I think I would tend toward some kind of big poofy cinderella fantasy
>  >style dress dripping with beads and hand work, though who knows where
>  >I'd wear it.
>
>
>  http://www.geocities.com/mm_civil_war1/GWTW_Scarlett.html
>
>  This, but I'd need someone to make me the right shape to wear it!! (I
>  think if you could roll me out like making a sausage, my short fat
>  body would become tall and slim - fat chance!)
>
>  Suzi
>
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>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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[h-cost] Subject: Re: Subject: Re: [ h-cost]Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Debloughcostumes
In a message dated 02/04/2008 19:00:26 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Andrew  Trembley wrote:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>>  
>> Nah - the bad one is the number of people from  soruthern England who've  
>> though I was  Scottish.
>>  
>> I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in  the North East.   *rolling  eyes*
>>   
>
>
> "But if you're from another planet, why  do you sound like you're from 
> the North?"
>
> "Lots of  planets have a north!"
>
> (Sorry, I had to...)
>
>  andy
>   

> Yeees - that's North East England,  Debs!  But then, if you came from North 
East Scotland, even I wouldn't be  able to understand you.
Jean
(from south east England, now living in  south east Scotland)
 
 

But my assumption would be that the additional specification of north east  
england would be redundant, as the first sentence made it clear which country I 
 was referring to



   
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Re: [h-cost] Dream Costume (was Making history hip (OT)

2008-04-02 Thread Suzi Clarke
At 21:01 02/04/2008, you wrote:

> > Can we get back to our regularly scheduled topic?  Here's a question
> > for you:  If you had sufficient resources to make your dream costume,
> > what would it be?
> > --cin
>
>LOL! It would be made by someone else, of course!
>
>I think I would tend toward some kind of big poofy cinderella fantasy
>style dress dripping with beads and hand work, though who knows where
>I'd wear it.


http://www.geocities.com/mm_civil_war1/GWTW_Scarlett.html

This, but I'd need someone to make me the right shape to wear it!! (I 
think if you could roll me out like making a sausage, my short fat 
body would become tall and slim - fat chance!)

Suzi 

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Re: [h-cost] Dream Costume (was Making history hip (OT)

2008-04-02 Thread Dawn

> Can we get back to our regularly scheduled topic?  Here's a question
> for you:  If you had sufficient resources to make your dream costume,
> what would it be?
> --cin

LOL! It would be made by someone else, of course!

I think I would tend toward some kind of big poofy cinderella fantasy 
style dress dripping with beads and hand work, though who knows where 
I'd wear it.




Dawn

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Re: [h-cost] Professional Pleaters - was Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Suzi Clarke
At 14:15 02/04/2008, you wrote:
>Hi Suzi, Could you tell us who you use, and approximately what it 
>costs to have this done?  I have seen these adds before, but just 
>assumed you had to have stuff done in such huge amounts that it 
>probably wasn't affordable.

Saragrace

As I work in England I think it would be prohibitive for you to have 
fabric pleated here. There are U.S. suggestions from others on the 
list, I see - or Google.

Suzi

>
>Thanks,Sg> > It may be worth looking for somewhere that does 
>permanent pleating > professionally. I use a firm to pleat my 
>fabrics if I want the pleats > to be permanent - they do it by 
>machine and weight I believe. My firm > will pleat anything, 
>including silk organza, silk and cotton. They > all keep their 
>pleats.> > If I am hand pleating, I press in the pleats, down the 
>entire length, > baste each one, and steam iron again. (A long and 
>boring, but > satisfying process!)> > Suzi> > 
>___> h-costume mailing 
>list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> 
>http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] Professional Pleaters - was Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Margo Anderson
When I was doing wedding dresses, I used San Francisco Pleating Co.   
There were no minimums, they were fine with pleating a yard or less.   
Here's contact info:

San Francisco Pleating Co.- 425 2nd St.,San Francisco, CA., 94107,  
(415)982-3003
Custom pleating. They do knife, accordion, crystal, box, mushroom and  
sunburst pleating on your cloth. Send business sized (#10) SASE for  
brochure.

Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Making history hip (OT)

2008-04-02 Thread Cin
Tangier Is has an airport & has had one for 40+ years.  I've flown in
there.   Small planes, mind you.  It's also accessible by anyone with
a motorboat. You didnt need a satellite TV to pick up "foreign" or
"polluting" accents.  There was radio available and broadcast TV, too.
None of these places are so isolated as these stories like to pretend.
When I was a kid, we used to spend the morning fishing in the
Chesapeake, then go to the Tangier inn & restaurant and get the
world's best grits & gravy. They do have a distinctive accent, often
attributed to massive inbreeding. That was probably just our Accomac
county snobbery talking.

I remember reading a Thomas Hardy novel, maybe Jude the Obscure, and
thinking that the provincial Sussex accent mocked by another character
sounded remarkably like someone from Rappahannock VA.

Can we get back to our regularly scheduled topic?  Here's a question
for you:  If you had sufficient resources to make your dream costume,
what would it be?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Most versions I have heard of this refer to Tangiers Island, which is off
of Virginia not the Carolinas, I have heard references to the Carolinas and
even the Ozarks!  Tangiers is still accessible only by ferry.  Of course
none of the various places in America I have heard touted as having a
surviving 16th century accent were in fact settled in that period!

> Ron Carnegie
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Re: [h-cost] Subject: Re: [ h-cost]Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Jean Waddie
Andrew Trembley wrote:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>   
>>  
>> Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've  
>> though I was Scottish.
>>  
>> I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East.   *rolling  eyes*
>> 
>
>
> "But if you're from another planet, why do you sound like you're from 
> the North?"
>
> "Lots of planets have a north!"
>
> (Sorry, I had to...)
>
> andy
>   

> Yeees - that's North East England, Debs!  But then, if you came from North 
> East Scotland, even I wouldn't be able to understand you.
Jean
(from south east England, now living in south east Scotland)
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Re: [h-cost] Subject: Re: [ h-cost]Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Andrew Trembley
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>  
> Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've  
> though I was Scottish.
>  
> I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East.   *rolling  eyes*


"But if you're from another planet, why do you sound like you're from 
the North?"

"Lots of planets have a north!"

(Sorry, I had to...)

andy

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Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost] Regional accents, was Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Dianne
Dianne wrote:
>Can you tell the difference between a Michigan accent and a Pennsylvania
>accent?

>How about Kentucky and Texas?

OK, point taken!>>

Good. I thought at first I might have come off snotty, and I didn't intend 
to do so.

Point was simply that it would be harder for an American to distinguish 
between regional British accents, as it would be hard for someone from 
England to distinguish between say, Michigan and Ohio. As a native 
Michiganian, the main difference I notice between MI and my current 
residence of Pennsylvania is more of phrasing--PA says soda, Michigan calls 
it pop. And I don't recall ever hearing a waitress in MI asking if we "want 
your drinks a while till your food is ready?", or a Michiganian saying 
"youse guys".

Dianne


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[h-cost] Professional pleaters

2008-04-02 Thread cheryldee
< > It may be worth looking for somewhere that does permanent pleating 
> professionally. I use a firm to pleat my fabrics if I want the pleats > to be 
permanent - they do it by machine and weight I believe. My firm > will pleat 
anything, including silk organza, silk and cotton. They > all keep their 
pleats.> > If I am hand pleating, I press in the pleats, down the entire 
length, 
> baste each one, and steam iron again. (A long and boring, but > satisfying 
process


I have always used A-1 Pleating in Los Angeles.? It's not true that they only 
deal with
polyester. I have had a lot of natural fabrics pleated.? They can do a variety 
of different pleats and 
they stay in the fabric because they "cook" them in pleating ovens.? Even if 
the pleats fall out a little
bit over the years, the creases remain and it's pretty easy to touch them up.? 
I especially like having 
sunburst pleats done because it's impossible to do them yourself.? And it's 
true that it can be pricey
but if you're needing to save time and want accuracy and permanency, it's worth 
the expense.


Cheryl Odom
College of Santa Fe
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Re: [h-cost] John Adams HBO series - Servants and pins.

2008-04-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf
I am reading the book right now - early on, when John is about 41, indeed they 
do not have any servants except one girl who lived (and died, I might add, of 
an epidemic) while John was in Philadelphia.  By this time-the Adams of 
Braintree Massachusetts, were 4th generation American farmers; who did lots of 
things on the side to survive, from shoe cobbling to malt making.  I am 
enjoying the book
 
Sg
 
Oh, I forgot to add some costume content!  One anecdotal note was made when 
Abigal asked John to buy her a bundle of pins from Philadelphia:
 
'''The cry for pins is so great that what we used to buy for 7 shilling and six 
pence are now 20 shillings and not to be had for that."  A bundle of pins 
contained six thousand, she explained.  These she could sell for hard money or 
use for barter."



> Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 10:28:43 -0600> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL 
> PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [h-cost] John Adams HBO series> > Pierre & Sandy 
> Pettinger wrote:> Servants? What servants? I'd expect the Adams' to have a 
> couple > farmhands and at least one girl in the house, but I've seen none. > 
> There's no way Abigail is running the farm by herself with 3 small kids. > 
> They might have a cow and some chickens, but no way there's a crop > coming 
> without help.> > > > Dawn
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[h-cost] Professional Pleaters - was Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Saragrace Knauf
Hi Suzi, Could you tell us who you use, and approximately what it costs to have 
this done?  I have seen these adds before, but just assumed you had to have 
stuff done in such huge amounts that it probably wasn't affordable.
 
Thanks,Sg> > It may be worth looking for somewhere that does permanent pleating 
> professionally. I use a firm to pleat my fabrics if I want the pleats > to be 
permanent - they do it by machine and weight I believe. My firm > will pleat 
anything, including silk organza, silk and cotton. They > all keep their 
pleats.> > If I am hand pleating, I press in the pleats, down the entire 
length, > baste each one, and steam iron again. (A long and boring, but > 
satisfying process!)> > Suzi> > 
___> h-costume mailing list> 
h-costume@mail.indra.com> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
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Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/2/2008 7:02:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

There  would be one or
multiple rows of this stitching, unseen from the outside,  which would
keep the inner edge of the fold in  place.



*
 
And I have seen on period examples the front fold edge-stitched to keep it  
folded. This was done by machine in matching thread right-on-the-edgeI mean 
 so close as to be practically invisible.



**Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.  
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom000301)
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Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread LLOYD MITCHELL
I'm not sure of the gown you will be trying to interpret; most dresses I 
have seen first hand have the pleating around the underskirt; usually 8/12 
".  There is a pleater board that Clotilda carries that does the pleating so 
quicklyfor this width. .It is a square with "pockets" that you stuff and 
press.  The first time I used it i said "yeah shure" and was surprised to 
have four yards pleated whith in an hour...a job that usually meant a whole 
day involvement.  just remember that the fabric being pleated is hemmed in 
advance!! I used spraystarch for a crisp finish and this held up pretty much 
through the drycleaning.

I vaguely remember seeing the device produced for 30"?

Kathleen
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 12:07 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Knife pleating:


> Hello, I bought material to make my first bustle dress, I am going to
> try and emulate a gown I have in a La Mode Parisiennes fashion plate
> from 1880 with consideration of Edna Pontellier's white cotton ensemble
> at the beginning of Grand Isle.
> What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
> many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
> acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
> edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
> stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
> crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
> permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
> permanent creases?
>
> Justine.
>
> ___
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> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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[h-cost] Subject: Re: [ h-cost]Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Debloughcostumes
 
Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've  
though I was Scottish.
 
I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East.   *rolling  eyes*
 
 
(Of course, then when I pointed out where I'm from, some asked which part  of 
Scotland that was in!
 
 
 
In a message dated 02/04/2008 04:06:04 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Trust an  American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and Cockney
accents!  I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a  Londoner,


 



   
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 119

2008-04-02 Thread Kate M Bunting
Sharon Collier wrote:

>. Before acrylics, we 
>used
>to make our own paint, using hoof-and-horn glue. We called it casein paint.
>You mixed the ground up stuff (hooves and horns, apparently) up with water,
>heated it and mixed in dry pigment. Perhaps this is what they used in olden
>times for fabric. 
>You can still get that kind of glue-it's called "mucilage" or possibly
>"hide" glue, the brown stuff that used to come in a glass bottle with an
>angled rubber top. .
>Another name for this might be "milk paint". This is sometimes found on old
>furniture. Apparently it's a pain to remove from furniture if you're
>refinishing. I've never come across it myself, but I think it's a version of
>this type of casein-based paint.

Are you sure you're not talking about two different things, Sharon? My 
understanding is that casein is a substance found in milk and cheese, but the 
substance extracted from hooves and horns is gelatin.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Katy Bishop
In period they would often run a line of stitching on the backside of
the pleating, catching each interior fold.  There would be one or
multiple rows of this stitching, unseen from the outside, which would
keep the inner edge of the fold in place.

Katy

On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 12:07 AM,  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello, I bought material to make my first bustle dress, I am going to
>  try and emulate a gown I have in a La Mode Parisiennes fashion plate
>   from 1880 with consideration of Edna Pontellier's white cotton ensemble
>  at the beginning of Grand Isle.
>  What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
>  many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
>  acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
>  edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
>  stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
>  crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
>  permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
>  permanent creases?
>
>  Justine.
>
>  ___
>  h-costume mailing list
>  h-costume@mail.indra.com
>  http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>



-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
[EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
 Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Danish Living History Site - WOW!

2008-04-02 Thread Kate M Bunting
http://www.livinghistory.dk/index.html 

Wow indeed! What a fascinating site, with some quite haunting portraits. In 
English churches you can see memorials with sculpted portraits of the deceased, 
but never oil paintings. I gather a lot of the subjects must be clergymen, as 
they're wearing ruffs long after these ceased to be fashionable.

Kate Bunting
Cataloguing & Data Quality Librarian
University of Derby

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Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread Suzi Clarke
At 11:15 02/04/2008, you wrote:
> >  What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
> >  many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
> >  acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
> >  edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
> >  stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
> >  crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
> >  permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
> >  permanent creases?
>
>I've made several fully kilted or pleated skirts and there are a few
>tips I'd recommend.
>
>Make a yoke to hang the pleats from. It's how it was done at the time
>and makes it easier and hang better.
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/bella.htm
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/absinthe.htm
>http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/wishing.htm
>
>These are my three Victorian pleated skirts. The first two are
>stitched down at regular intervals down the length of the skirt.
>That's how they keep their shape. I pleated as much fabric as I was
>able and then treated that as a single pice of fabric that I cat to
>shape at the waist and that is how the skirts are rather full.
>The third is box pleated and the pleats need to be pressed anew each
>time I wear it. But the pleats need to be left open.
>
>Permanent pressers generally only deal with polyester (maybe a few
>other man made fibres) as it can be permanently pressed with heat.
>Cotton and linen will eventually lose the crisp edge.


It may be worth looking for somewhere that does permanent pleating 
professionally. I use a firm to pleat my fabrics if I want the pleats 
to be permanent - they do it by machine and weight I believe. My firm 
will pleat anything, including silk organza, silk and cotton. They 
all keep their pleats.

If I am hand pleating, I press in the pleats, down the entire length, 
baste each one, and steam iron again. (A long and boring, but 
satisfying process!)

Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] Knife pleating:

2008-04-02 Thread michaela de bruce
>  What I am trying to get down is how to do knife pleating. I have read
>  many different instructions on how to make the pleats, but how can one
>  acheive a sharp pleat that holds through the whole length to the bottom
>  edge? The material I am using is like a lightly woven, delicately
>  stiffened, cotton linen with mild sheen to it and can imagine it would
>  crease well but how can I get it to hold the shape? I have heard of
>  permanent press, is there a chemical used professionally to create
>  permanent creases?

I've made several fully kilted or pleated skirts and there are a few
tips I'd recommend.

Make a yoke to hang the pleats from. It's how it was done at the time
and makes it easier and hang better.
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/bella.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/historical/absinthe.htm
http://costumes.glittersweet.com/phantom/wishing.htm

These are my three Victorian pleated skirts. The first two are
stitched down at regular intervals down the length of the skirt.
That's how they keep their shape. I pleated as much fabric as I was
able and then treated that as a single pice of fabric that I cat to
shape at the waist and that is how the skirts are rather full.
The third is box pleated and the pleats need to be pressed anew each
time I wear it. But the pleats need to be left open.

Permanent pressers generally only deal with polyester (maybe a few
other man made fibres) as it can be permanently pressed with heat.
Cotton and linen will eventually lose the crisp edge.

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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