Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Käthe Barrows wrote: The Nazis used pink triangles for homosexuals in camps. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pink_triangle and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:German_concentration_camp_chart_of_prisoner_markings.jpg Yes, but this is 20th century, as I said in my original post. The academic standards were adopted in the late 19th century in the United States. For example: There has been a great diversity of opinion on the subject, but the generally accepted rule is pink for the boy and blue for the girl. The reason is that pink being a more decided and stronger color is more suitable for the boy, while blue, which is more delicate and dainty, is prettier for the girl. [Ladies Home Journal, June, 1918] So pink for music predates both pink for girls and pink as associated with homosexuals. (It's quite true that the use of pink for homosexuals for the Nazis may show that the shift to associate pink with the feminine may have happened in Germany by the 30s.) Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Lynn Downward wrote: Which came first, the pink outfit or the idea that men in the arts are often homosexual? Well, since pink wasn't a considered a girl's colour until into the 20th century, I would expect that pink for music predates any associations of pink with gay people. The academic costume colour code was adopted in the US in 1895. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
The Nazis used pink triangles for homosexuals in camps. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pink_triangle and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:German_concentration_camp_chart_of_prisoner_markings.jpg On Wed, Apr 22, 2009 at 6:53 PM, Susan Carroll-Clark scarrollcl...@gmail.com wrote: Lynn Downward wrote: Which came first, the pink outfit or the idea that men in the arts are often homosexual? Well, since pink wasn't a considered a girl's colour until into the 20th century, I would expect that pink for music predates any associations of pink with gay people. The academic costume colour code was adopted in the US in 1895. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
On Apr 18, 2009, at 4:28 PM, Kate Pinner wrote: Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for PhDs, so I made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere MFA). Melanie Schuessler Eastern Michigan University I'm an MFA, too, but Yale figured that since it was a 3 Year terminal degree, we have the right to wear PhD robes (and be called Dr) -- so that's what they gave us. Well, that's awfully nice! That makes me feel better about bending the rules to wear a Tudor cap instead of a mortarboard. I can't stand mortarboards. Melanie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Susan Farmer wrote: Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (snip) This link takes you to an advertisement for a new little book on the academic dress of Oxford University:- http://www.ox.ac.uk/media/news_stories/2009/090403.html There is a description of the development of the women's 'floppy hat', a little about colours, and some useful photographs. [If you haven't time to read the page, at least scroll down to the end and enjoy the photo of Daniel Barenboim in his regalia!] Linda Walton, (High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Which came first, the pink outfit or the idea that men in the arts are often homosexual? Please don't send me any angry messages about me being a homophone. I ask flippantly and I have almost as many gay friends as straight friends. LynnD in the San Francisco Bay Area On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 4:06 PM, Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.comwrote: Susan Farmer wrote: Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (snip) This link takes you to an advertisement for a new little book on the academic dress of Oxford University:- http://www.ox.ac.uk/media/news_stories/2009/090403.html There is a description of the development of the women's 'floppy hat', a little about colours, and some useful photographs. [If you haven't time to read the page, at least scroll down to the end and enjoy the photo of Daniel Barenboim in his regalia!] Linda Walton, (High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com: Susan Farmer wrote: Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (snip) This link takes you to an advertisement for a new little book on the academic dress of Oxford University:- http://www.ox.ac.uk/media/news_stories/2009/090403.html There is a description of the development of the women's 'floppy hat', a little about colours, and some useful photographs. [If you haven't time to read the page, at least scroll down to the end and enjoy the photo of Daniel Barenboim in his regalia!] Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Lynn Downward wrote: Please don't send me any angry messages about me being a homophone Hmm. Lynn, Linn, Lynne, Lin ... sounds like a homophone to me. (g,d,r) --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Not contemporary, 1890s, but more recent than some of the examples in this great discussion. ;) At the Costumer's Manifesto site, the Cutter's Practical Guide: http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/1893to1898cuttersguide.htm Look under one of the Parts 9 for a section which includes hoods gowns. The actual hood patterns are on page 73, and are turned sideways 90º from how I would draw a hood pattern. But moderately familiar shapes to those who have looked at the medieval varieties of hoods. :) Ann in CT --- On Mon, 4/20/09, Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com wrote: Susan Farmer wrote: Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (snip) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Send out an email with instructions on the CORRECT way to wear them. If they are Snobs, they'll want to be sure they are correct! -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of ruthan...@mindspring.com Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 8:57 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods If some of the full-time members of the department of the school nearest to me weren't vindictive snobs I could! Actually our new Writing Program Director is encouraging those of us who teach in that program to go, and I do own my regalia so it's no problem, but I'm still thinking about the v.s. factor... --Ruth Anne -Original Message- From: annbw...@aol.com Sent: Apr 17, 2009 8:28 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods In a message dated 4/17/2009 7:20:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ruthan...@mindspring.com writes: I don't get invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed over the last decade or so. Maybe you wouldn't want to, but couldn't you go anyway? I was just a part-time instructor at Morgan State University, but when I heard that President Clinton was going to speak, I got dressed up and went--had to borrow a hood, as I hadn't bought one. No one seemed to care one way or the other that I went--I just had to go through the metal detector with everyone else. Ann Wass **Join ChristianMingle.comR FREE! Meet Christian Singles in your area. Start now! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221246370x1201421635/aol?redi r=http://www.christianmingle.com/campaign.html?cat=adbuysrc=pl atformaadid=aolfooternewurl=reg_path.html) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
In a message dated 4/17/2009 9:30:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes: My husband's favorite tale is one of showing up at the stated bookstore to sing up for the rental gown at xxxfee and the salesman took him aside and said I don't want to disuade you from getting a new one, but if you step over here, you might change your mind. I asked about ordering a real gown instead of the crappy one, and was told they were special order and had to be ordered further in advance than the time remaining before commencement. It does seem there were be a market for used ones, though. Ann Wass **Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web. Try the new Email Toolbar now! (http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown0027) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting annbw...@aol.com: In a message dated 4/17/2009 9:30:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes: My husband's favorite tale is one of showing up at the stated bookstore to sing up for the rental gown at xxxfee and the salesman took him aside and said I don't want to disuade you from getting a new one, but if you step over here, you might change your mind. I asked about ordering a real gown instead of the crappy one, and was told they were special order and had to be ordered further in advance than the time remaining before commencement. It does seem there were be a market for used ones, though. But more important than that ... The Crappy Gown ran me about $80 in 2007. A *real* gown was going to be about $800 ... IIRC, that was on sale . Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
In a message dated 4/15/2009 5:40:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, sha...@collierfam.com writes: Don't use pleating tape, the pleats end up being only about 1/2 deep, so there are a lot of them to sew. And the tape adds a lot of bulk. Instead make a facing with 1/4 gingham. That way you can easily make even pleats, using the gingham as a guide. I like making pleats 1 deep. Quick whip stitches and you're done! I do cartridge pleats with no marking at all, just eyeballing them, and they come out fine. Margo ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for PhDs, so I made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere MFA). Melanie Schuessler Eastern Michigan University I'm an MFA, too, but Yale figured that since it was a 3 Year terminal degree, we have the right to wear PhD robes (and be called Dr) -- so that's what they gave us. Kate Pinner ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
For Ph.D. hoods, at least in the U.S., the width of the velvet tells the degree. The color of the velvet tells the discipline. The lining of the hood tells the institution. Some institutions, such as Rutgers, Columbia, Harvard, Yale, and the University of Rochester, also have official robe colors, although the individual can always choose black. Master's hoods have narrower bands the color of which, I believe, tells only the type of Master's (M.A., M.S., etc.), and a lining in the institution's colors. Bachelor's hoods, which contrary to common practice should not be worn TO the ceremony but should be awarded AT the ceremony, have the narrowest velvet, again coded only to type of Bachelor's (B.A. white, B.S. gold), and a lining in the institution's colors. Where I used to teach the graduates wore their Bachelor's hoods to the ceremony, and that's why students in the program I used to teach in looked distinctive: we always gave a champagne breakfast for our graduates before the ceremony, and I was in charge of turning their hoods right-side-up before they left for the ceremony, and they were often the only ones there who had it right! The things ARE rather counter-intuitive to put on, but if someone would explain to the kids that the little loops are meant to go around a shirt button I think they'd figur out how to get it on right-side-up eventually. On the robe: the Ph.D. robe has full sleeves with three horizontal velvet stripes and is worn closed; the M.A. robe has bat-wing sleeves, traditionally sewn closed across the bottom and with a horizontal slit at about the elbow for the arm to come through (but cheap robes may have open sleeves that come down to the elbow in front and are angled longer in back--yes, no place for tissues, car keys, or the Times crossword) and is worn open, held in place by long crossing ties attached to the inside of the robe (although cheap robes just have zippers and therefore can't attractively be worn open). Bachelor's gowns have full sleeves longer in back than in front, like typical angel costumes in school pageants, and are worn closed. I believe outside the U.S. there is a wider variety of robe styles. Theoretically here only Ph.D.s are entitled to the soft square cap instead of the mortarboard (and only they get the gold tassel), but many M.A.s who own their regalia wear the soft cap too, but with a black tassel. All due appreciation for tradition, but why BUY something that makes one look like an idiot? Yes, my colleague from New Zealand had a floppy cap of which I continue to be very jealous. Now that I'm a Roads Scholar (one of the many nicknames for people who teach part-time at several institutions at once) I don't get invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed over the last decade or so. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Apr 16, 2009, at 8:23 PM, Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. It's my understanding that the Color Scheme only applies to hoods. The velvet is the color of the discipline -- the color(s) of the satin are the colors of the institution. The velvet bands on the front of the gown and the sleeves c either be the discipline colors, trimmed in the discipline colors, or Your Basic Black. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
In a message dated 4/17/2009 7:20:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ruthan...@mindspring.com writes: I don't get invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed over the last decade or so. Maybe you wouldn't want to, but couldn't you go anyway? I was just a part-time instructor at Morgan State University, but when I heard that President Clinton was going to speak, I got dressed up and went--had to borrow a hood, as I hadn't bought one. No one seemed to care one way or the other that I went--I just had to go through the metal detector with everyone else. Ann Wass **Join ChristianMingle.com® FREE! Meet Christian Singles in your area. Start now! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221246370x1201421635/aol?redir=http://www.christianmingle.com/campaign.html?cat=adbuysrc=pl atformaadid=aolfooternewurl=reg_path.html) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
On Apr 17, 2009, at 7:21 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote: Master's hoods have narrower bands the color of which, I believe, tells only the type of Master's (M.A., M.S., etc.), and a lining in the institution's colors. The velvet bands on Master's hoods are color-coded by discipline. The things ARE rather counter-intuitive to put on, but if someone would explain to the kids that the little loops are meant to go around a shirt button I think they'd figur out how to get it on right-side-up eventually. Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself! the M.A. robe has bat-wing sleeves, traditionally sewn closed across the bottom and with a horizontal slit at about the elbow for the arm to come through (but cheap robes may have open sleeves that come down to the elbow in front and are angled longer in back--yes, no place for tissues, car keys, or the Times crossword) When I made mine, I made the sleeves the same shape as the modern ones, but open from the shoulder to the wrist in front like the hanging sleeve from which they are derived. It means I have to wear black sleeves underneath it, but it looks much less silly than the ones with wrist-level slits. I also did the pleats in the body of the gown like the 16th-century VA loose gown in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. I decided that since I'm a 16th-century scholar, I should dress like a 16th-century scholar! Theoretically here only Ph.D.s are entitled to the soft square cap instead of the mortarboard (and only they get the gold tassel), but many M.A.s who own their regalia wear the soft cap too, but with a black tassel. Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for PhDs, so I made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere MFA). Melanie Schuessler Eastern Michigan University ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Wow, this has been fun!? A lot more people than I would have thought who have made their own garb.? As I said, I got out of academia, so finally gave away the cording and other stuff I had bought when I was fired up with the ambition to make my own snazzy outfit. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 8:45 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods On Apr 17, 2009, at 7:21 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:? ? Master's hoods have narrower bands the color of which, I believe, tells only the type of Master's (M.A., M.S., etc.), and a lining in the institution's colors.? ? The velvet bands on Master's hoods are color-coded by discipline.? ? The things ARE rather counter-intuitive to put on, but if someone would explain to the kids that the little loops are meant to go around a shirt button I think they'd figur out how to get it on right-side-up eventually.? ? Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself!? ? the M.A. robe has bat-wing sleeves, traditionally sewn closed across the bottom and with a horizontal slit at about the elbow for the arm to come through (but cheap robes may have open sleeves that come down to the elbow in front and are angled longer in back--yes, no place for tissues, car keys, or the Times crossword)? ? When I made mine, I made the sleeves the same shape as the modern ones, but open from the shoulder to the wrist in front like the hanging sleeve from which they are derived. It means I have to wear black sleeves underneath it, but it looks much less silly than the ones with wrist-level slits. I also did the pleats in the body of the gown like the 16th-century VA loose gown in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. I decided that since I'm a 16th-century scholar, I should dress like a 16th-century scholar!? ? Theoretically here only Ph.D.s are entitled to the soft square cap instead of the mortarboard (and only they get the gold tassel), but many M.A.s who own their regalia wear the soft cap too, but with a black tassel.? ? Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for PhDs, so I made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere MFA).? ? Melanie Schuessler? Eastern Michigan University? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself! That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for graduation, no one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I got my Master's degree. All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a robe. Then, you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are mis-labeled and the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit! No one mentioned anything about hoods or other items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any dept. or college within the university. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
If some of the full-time members of the department of the school nearest to me weren't vindictive snobs I could! Actually our new Writing Program Director is encouraging those of us who teach in that program to go, and I do own my regalia so it's no problem, but I'm still thinking about the v.s. factor... --Ruth Anne -Original Message- From: annbw...@aol.com Sent: Apr 17, 2009 8:28 AM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods In a message dated 4/17/2009 7:20:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ruthan...@mindspring.com writes: I don't get invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed over the last decade or so. Maybe you wouldn't want to, but couldn't you go anyway? I was just a part-time instructor at Morgan State University, but when I heard that President Clinton was going to speak, I got dressed up and went--had to borrow a hood, as I hadn't bought one. No one seemed to care one way or the other that I went--I just had to go through the metal detector with everyone else. Ann Wass **Join ChristianMingle.com® FREE! Meet Christian Singles in your area. Start now! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221246370x1201421635/aol?redir=http://www.christianmingle.com/campaign.html?cat=adbuysrc=pl atformaadid=aolfooternewurl=reg_path.html) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
You also have to know, as Harriet Vane comments in Dorothy L. Sayers' GAUDY NIGHT, how to turn the velvet border so the silk lining shows. Yes, the least they could do as part of the approving of a degree is to instruct the recipient on how to put on the duds! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner -Original Message- From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net Sent: Apr 17, 2009 10:28 AM To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself! That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for graduation, no one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I got my Master's degree. All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a robe. Then, you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are mis-labeled and the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit! No one mentioned anything about hoods or other items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any dept. or college within the university. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
You also have to know, as Harriet Vane comments in Dorothy L. Sayers' GAUDY NIGHT, how to turn the velvet border so the silk lining shows. Yes, the least they could do as part of the approving of a degree is to instruct the recipient on how to put on the duds! I KNOW we got instruction when I got my BA.? Don't remember if there was just a detailed how-to sheet included, or what, but we definitely all found out how to do it.? It is, though, one of those things that, if you don't do it for a while, it takes a little bit to remember how.? But if one did it once or twice a year, it should become second nature. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: ruthan...@mindspring.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:03 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods You also have to know, as Harriet Vane comments in Dorothy L. Sayers' GAUDY NIGHT, how to turn the velvet border so the silk lining shows. Yes, the least they could do as part of the approving of a degree is to instruct the recipient on how to put on the duds! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner -Original Message- From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net Sent: Apr 17, 2009 10:28 AM To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself! That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for graduation, no one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I got my Master's degree. All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a robe. Then, you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are mis-labeled and the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit! No one mentioned anything about hoods or other items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any dept. or college within the university. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
But if one did it once or twice a year, it should become second nature. I knew someone with a PhD in Math from MIT. He wanted me to sew him a robe, but I had no idea what it should really officially look like so I turned down the job. He ended up buying one. It was sleazy shiny polyester with cheap velvet, in all the right colors and all the official shape, and it cost him a lot. Neither one of us was especially impressed, but he said that's what everyone else would be wearing. The garment claimed it was officially correct or he wouldn't have bought it. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Wow, how organised! In the UK, every institution makes up its own colour scheme. First degree robes are generally black, but there is no correlation between the hood colours for the same discipline from one university to another, and PhD robes are all different. I think there is some central registry that prevents clashes - obviously the oldest universities had the first choices and the newer ones have to make do - which may be why my husband's PhD gown, from a 1960s institution, was cerise pink. Finding an outfit for me to go with that was a bit of a challenge! There is one company, Ede and Ravenscroft, which has a practical monopoly on hire and sale of academic gowns. They also do judicial and ecclesiastical outfits. Hats are also very individual. At Edinburgh you don't wear a hat, you are tapped on the head with what is supposed to be John Knox's hat. At St Andrews you carry your hood into the ceremony and the person presenting the degrees puts it over your head. Everywhere has their own traditions. Jean Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote: For Ph.D. hoods, at least in the U.S., the width of the velvet tells the degree. The color of the velvet tells the discipline. The lining of the hood tells the institution. Some institutions, such as Rutgers, Columbia, Harvard, Yale, and the University of Rochester, also have official robe colors, although the individual can always choose black. Master's hoods have narrower bands the color of which, I believe, tells only the type of Master's (M.A., M.S., etc.), and a lining in the institution's colors. Bachelor's hoods, which contrary to common practice should not be worn TO the ceremony but should be awarded AT the ceremony, have the narrowest velvet, again coded only to type of Bachelor's (B.A. white, B.S. gold), and a lining in the institution's colors. Where I used to teach the graduates wore their Bachelor's hoods to the ceremony, and that's why students in the program I used to teach in looked distinctive: we always gave a champagne breakfast for our graduates before the ceremony, and I was in charge of turning their hoods right-side-up before they left for the ceremony, and they were often the only ones there who had it right! The things ARE rather counter-intuitive to put on, but if someone would explain to the kids that the little loops are meant to go around a shirt button I think they'd figur out how to get it on right-side-up eventually. On the robe: the Ph.D. robe has full sleeves with three horizontal velvet stripes and is worn closed; the M.A. robe has bat-wing sleeves, traditionally sewn closed across the bottom and with a horizontal slit at about the elbow for the arm to come through (but cheap robes may have open sleeves that come down to the elbow in front and are angled longer in back--yes, no place for tissues, car keys, or the Times crossword) and is worn open, held in place by long crossing ties attached to the inside of the robe (although cheap robes just have zippers and therefore can't attractively be worn open). Bachelor's gowns have full sleeves longer in back than in front, like typical angel costumes in school pageants, and are worn closed. I believe outside the U.S. there is a wider variety of robe styles. Theoretically here only Ph.D.s are entitled to the soft square cap instead of the mortarboard (and only they get the gold tassel), but many M.A.s who own their regalia wear the soft cap too, but with a black tassel. All due appreciation for tradition, but why BUY something that makes one look like an idiot? Yes, my colleague from New Zealand had a floppy cap of which I continue to be very jealous. Now that I'm a Roads Scholar (one of the many nicknames for people who teach part-time at several institutions at once) I don't get invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed over the last decade or so. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Apr 16, 2009, at 8:23 PM, Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. It's my understanding that the Color Scheme only applies to hoods. The velvet is the color of the discipline -- the color(s) of the satin are the colors of the institution. The velvet bands on the front of the gown and the sleeves c either be the discipline colors,
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Land of Oz wrote: That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for graduation, no one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I got my Master's degree. All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a robe. Then, you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are mis-labeled and the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit! No one mentioned anything about hoods or other items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any dept. or college within the university. One nice thing about graduating from the University of Toronto is that all our graduates are hooded--yep, even BAs (whose hoods have this silly fake fur on them). And the hoods are rented from an academic supply house, so you get the right one. (You can also buy them, but most people don't). The one thing I was a bit bummed about when I got my doctorate is that the rental gown was not the regulation PhD gown, which is quite snazzy in black with wide red facings along the closure trimmed in white. The entire hood is red wool with white silk linking. It was pretty cool, but it kinda sucked with the rental gown. And of course, I never actually bought any of the regalia since I didn't stay in academia. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
My husband's favorite tale is one of showing up at the stated bookstore to sing up for the rental gown at xxxfee and the salesman took him aside and said I don't want to disuade you from getting a new one, but if you step over here, you might change your mind. (The old bate and switch) The 'others were trade'ins made of the Real Stuff! so he came home with a lovely wool garbadine with real velvet revers and bands.. and a morterboard with a real gilt tassel!. At that time Duquesne presented the hoods of Phds with the degree. Yeah! I eventually designed the old style hat and salvedged the gilt. Kathleen -Original Message- From: Susan Carroll-Clark scarrollcl...@gmail.com Sent 4/17/2009 8:41:22 PM To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic HoodsLand of Oz wrote: That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for graduation, no one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I got my Master's degree. All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a robe. Then, you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are mis-labeled and the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit! No one mentioned anything about hoods or other items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any dept. or college within the university. One nice thing about graduating from the University of Toronto is that all our graduates are hooded--yep, even BAs (whose hoods have this silly fake fur on them). And the hoods are rented from an academic supply house, so you get the right one. (You can also buy them, but most people don't). The one thing I was a bit bummed about when I got my doctorate is that the rental gown was not the regulation PhD gown, which is quite snazzy in black with wide red facings along the closure trimmed in white. The entire hood is red wool with white silk linking. It was pretty cool, but it kinda sucked with the rental gown. And of course, I never actually bought any of the regalia since I didn't stay in academia. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ??___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. Kathleen -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Sent 4/15/2009 8:45:48 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic HoodsQuoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Is that (the Oxford Don hat) the octagon-shaped tudor-flat-cap kinda hat? I so want one of those. My morter-board cap is just way too big on my little pin-head! I have a PhD hood, but I just would like to get the patterns for both kinds of hoods (in my observations this morning, most folks don't know how they're supposed to hang! Those MS hoods are more hood like but they're harder to make hang right.) There are more than a few folks here who have no hoods -- if I had patterns, I could whip up some hoods for the division to have as reserves. I have *no* clue how to take my hood and make a pattern from it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Mathhttp://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ??___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Searching on Google Image under academic hood brought up many interesting pages, including the differences in size and complexity between Master's, Doctorate, etc. levels. Also some amusing photos of people actually trying to wear them as hoods (on a lark) and how foolish the hoods look.) -- Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent Such virtue hath my pen -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81 I knew this wasn't _my_ pen! --Cynthia Virtue ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. Here is what I remember, without looking it up: The hood lining is the school colors.? The velvet edging, which varies in width according to the degree, is traditionally, white for arts (BA, MA), gold for sciences (BS, MS), and blue for philosophy, hence the Ph.D.? However, a modern innovation is to use specific disciplines for that color--mine, for example, was home economics, and designated as maroon.? The velvet stripes on the doctoral robe can be black or the blue. Both the hood and the gown are different styles for the different degrees.? I seem to remember the master's has the long hanging sleeves--a place to stash your stuff! Unfortunately, the ready-made ones that people buy, instead of rent, nowadays often resemble the cheapy Ben Cooper Halloween costumes, so, yes, cheesy fabric and gathers instead of nice pleats.? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 9:20 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. Kathleen -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Sent 4/15/2009 8:45:48 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic HoodsQuoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Is that (the Oxford Don hat) the octagon-shaped tudor-flat-cap kinda hat? I so want one of those. My morter-board cap is just way too big on my little pin-head! I have a PhD hood, but I just would like to get the patterns for both kinds of hoods (in my observations this morning, most folks don't know how they're supposed to hang! Those MS hoods are more hood like but they're harder to make hang right.) There are more than a few folks here who have no hoods -- if I had patterns, I could whip up some hoods for the division to have as reserves. I have *no* clue how to take my hood and make a pattern from it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Di vision of Science and Mathhttp://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ??= ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. There is a pattern in Alcega for a gown for a learned man -- but what would a 12th century gown look like? From what I understand, the 12th-13th century version of a scholar's gown--the cappa clausa -- looked more or less like a long hooded poncho with a slit in front for the hands. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Now, THAT sounds comfortable! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner On Apr 16, 2009, at 7:11 PM, Susan Carroll-Clark wrote: Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. There is a pattern in Alcega for a gown for a learned man -- but what would a 12th century gown look like? From what I understand, the 12th-13th century version of a scholar's gown--the cappa clausa -- looked more or less like a long hooded poncho with a slit in front for the hands. Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. It's my understanding that the Color Scheme only applies to hoods. The velvet is the color of the discipline -- the color(s) of the satin are the colors of the institution. The velvet bands on the front of the gown and the sleeves c either be the discipline colors, trimmed in the discipline colors, or Your Basic Black. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Susan Carroll-Clark scarrollcl...@gmail.com: Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. There is a pattern in Alcega for a gown for a learned man -- but what would a 12th century gown look like? From what I understand, the 12th-13th century version of a scholar's gown--the cappa clausa -- looked more or less like a long hooded poncho with a slit in front for the hands. How cool is that! susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? I had planned to make my own garb, but then got out of academia, so never did.? I was going to borrow a friend's hood fto make?the pattern.? I think some of the minister/choir robe patterns on the market are good for the robe.? They used to sell pleating tape that would make the little cartridge pleats, and I was going to use that to get the proper pleating.? Silk would probably be more authentic than linen or wool, but linen would be more comfortable, for sure, and wool wouldn't wrinkle like linen, which would probably be a total mess by the end of the ceremony.? Also, it seems to me most linens are not deep, dark, black. Good luck! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 3:57 pm Subject: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (which if you believe the line that the college uses are unchanged since the 13th century -- I'm gonna make me 13th century academic garb if I can figure out what it is -- just because!)?? ? I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? ? Susan? -? Susan Farmer? sfar...@goldsword.com? Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College? Division of Science and Math? http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Kathleen -Original Message- From: annbw...@aol.com Sent 4/15/2009 4:49:44 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? I had planned to make my own garb, but then got out of academia, so never did.? I was going to borrow a friend's hood fto make?the pattern.? I think some of the minister/choir robe patterns on the market are good for the robe.? They used to sell pleating tape that would make the little cartridge pleats, and I was going to use that to get the proper pleating.? Silk would probably be more authentic than linen or wool, but linen would be more comfortable, for sure, and wool wouldn't wrinkle like linen, which would probably be a total mess by the end of the ceremony.? Also, it seems to me most linens are not deep, dark, black. Good luck! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 3:57 pm Subject: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (which if you believe the line that the college uses are unchanged since the 13th century -- I'm gonna make me 13th century academic garb if I can figure out what it is -- just because!)?? ? I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? ? Susan? -? Susan Farmer? sfar...@goldsword.com? Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College? Division of Science and Math?http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com?http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ??___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Don't use pleating tape, the pleats end up being only about 1/2 deep, so there are a lot of them to sew. And the tape adds a lot of bulk. Instead make a facing with 1/4 gingham. That way you can easily make even pleats, using the gingham as a guide. I like making pleats 1 deep. Quick whip stitches and you're done! -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 1:50 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? I had planned to make my own garb, but then got out of academia, so never did.? I was going to borrow a friend's hood fto make?the pattern.? I think some of the minister/choir robe patterns on the market are good for the robe.? They used to sell pleating tape that would make the little cartridge pleats, and I was going to use that to get the proper pleating.? Silk would probably be more authentic than linen or wool, but linen would be more comfortable, for sure, and wool wouldn't wrinkle like linen, which would probably be a total mess by the end of the ceremony.? Also, it seems to me most linens are not deep, dark, black. Good luck! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 3:57 pm Subject: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (which if you believe the line that the college uses are unchanged since the 13th century -- I'm gonna make me 13th century academic garb if I can figure out what it is -- just because!)?? ? I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? ? Susan? -? Susan Farmer? sfar...@goldsword.com? Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College? Division of Science and Math? http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. Where I used to teach I had two colleagues who made their own regalia or had it made--one a lovely brown robe that looked pretty medieval, and one a standard robe with a standard-shaped hood but in PLAID (his family's tartan). They blended in just fine with the Oxford robes and the New Zealand regalia (including a most remarkable cap!) and the Rutgers red and the Columbia blue and the Rochester yellow. Live it up--the faculty should look like a flock of bright and exotic birds on procession, there's enough black on everybody else. Students and parents love it. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer On Apr 15, 2009, at 3:57 PM, Susan Farmer wrote: Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (which if you believe the line that the college uses are unchanged since the 13th century -- I'm gonna make me 13th century academic garb if I can figure out what it is -- just because!)? I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting annbw...@aol.com: I had planned to make my own garb, but then got out of academia, so never did.? I was going to borrow a friend's hood fto make?the pattern.? I think some of the minister/choir robe patterns on the market are good for the robe.? They used to sell pleating tape that would make the little cartridge pleats, and I was going to use that to get the proper pleating.? Silk would probably be more authentic than linen or wool, but linen would be more comfortable, for sure, and wool wouldn't wrinkle like linen, which would probably be a total mess by the end of the ceremony.? Also, it seems to me most linens are not deep, dark, black. nods. I noticed today that most of the gowns are the regular choir-robe Butterick pattern type with the body of the gown just gathered onto the yoke. Only the $800+ gowns actually have cartridge pleats! Good luck! Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Is that (the Oxford Don hat) the octagon-shaped tudor-flat-cap kinda hat? I so want one of those. My morter-board cap is just way too big on my little pin-head! I have a PhD hood, but I just would like to get the patterns for both kinds of hoods (in my observations this morning, most folks don't know how they're supposed to hang! Those MS hoods are more hood like but they're harder to make hang right.) There are more than a few folks here who have no hoods -- if I had patterns, I could whip up some hoods for the division to have as reserves. I have *no* clue how to take my hood and make a pattern from it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. There is a pattern in Alcega for a gown for a learned man -- but what would a 12th century gown look like? Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
The only academic I saw with an octagonal hat (in olive velvet) as part of her regalia gradated from a university in Poland--I want to say Warsaw University, but her page on my college website does not mention the institute where she earned her PhD. It's been 25 years since I took a class from her, so I do not remember clearly. Ann in CT --- On Wed, 4/15/09, Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com wrote: Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Is that (the Oxford Don hat) the octagon-shaped tudor-flat-cap kinda hat? I so want one of those. My morter-board cap is just way too big on my little pin-head! Susan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com: The only academic I saw with an octagonal hat (in olive velvet) as part of her regalia gradated from a university in Poland--I want to say Warsaw University, but her page on my college website does not mention the institute where she earned her PhD. It's been 25 years since I took a class from her, so I do not remember clearly. You're seeing them a lot more. The Cheap Gowns come with the standard mortar board -- the Expensive Gowns come with your choice. (at least on one of the web sites that I looked at.) susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
