Thank you. Will email Apollo, too.
Not aware of a Men in Sheds invasion here.
On Oct 4, 2017 4:20 PM, "Cabinz Admin" wrote:
> Good Luck Ken,
> I've found my bottle from Apollo.co.uk glue that seems the same as
> lumberjack or gorilla glue. On label it says "Joinery
I just saw a reference online to a foaming version but I haven't actually
seen it in stores. It might have been someone's fever dream.
On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 6:45 PM, ken winston caine <
ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Don't think there are multiple versions, Hunter. This is all I saw on
What did the container look like? It seems that there are multiple versions.
On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 5:43 PM, ken winston caine <
ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Loctite Polyurethane construction adhesive did NOT work out. Is NOT
> similar to Gorilla Glue, and did NOT foam, as I had read
Cool, keep us posted. This is really useful stuff to know.
On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 11:50 AM, ken winston caine <
ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hunter, I will be testing Titebond II Pro on the backing board sometime in
> the next couple days. But won't be testing it *between* the polyiso
Hunter, I will be testing Titebond II Pro on the backing board sometime in
the next couple days. But won't be testing it *between* the polyiso and the
textured paper covering. Will be testing it atop the textured paper. It is
the initial layer in the "poor man's fiberglass" treatment I will be
Have you done any tests of adhesives between the iso and the backing board?
I'm imagining a large number of failures will happen at that boundary (at
least for the standard burning man BiDi tape/Vinyl construction styles).
On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 11:16 AM, ken winston caine <
As Vinay says, gorilla glue does the job well, but I agree with you that
it's too expensive . Here at Cabinz for glueing composite door off cuts
with rigid foam cores, we use a much cheaper Pu glue like the gorilla stuff
. It;s called Lumberjack by Everbuild. I use the 5 min stuff its less
Heh, and of course I see my threads were cut in half and you already
mentioned drainage. Perhaps just two by fours or pallets for the initial
season?
On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 11:21 AM, ken winston caine <
ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yes, Vinay. It is supposed to be good with polyiso.
Yes, Vinay. It is supposed to be good with polyiso. Originally had rejected
it because of its cost and that it requires clamping. But think I have
solved the clamping issue. Have already bought about 240 oz. of Liquid
Nails for this project. But think I will run a small test with some Gorilla
Glue
You might want to look at Gorilla Glue too. It foams up so it pushes into
contours of the surface for maximum grip. Very useful. I suspect it's
pretty much like liquid nails in other characteristics.
V>
On Sun, 27 Aug 2017, 03:06 D.V.Rogers wrote:
> If your project is
If your project is permament why not go Ferrocrete?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrocement
http://ferrocement.com/
You need the following;
Mortar Sprayer Oregon - http://www.mortarsprayer.com/ (you can also hand
trowel like stucco)
Permalath (BASF) - www.permalath.basf.com/ (or Chicken Wire)
Hunter:
The "Fail" shown in the photos was with an unevenly broken polyiso board
with quite ragged faces along the break. The successful followup test was
done with clean-cut, smooth faces. That really does make a difference. But,
still, you MUST clamp the repair, I have found.
Unfortunately,
So did you cut the edges first to prepare them for the liquid nails?
On Wed, Aug 23, 2017 at 11:40 AM, ken winston caine <
ken.winston.ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> REVISION: LIQUID NAILS SUCCESS
>
> NEW TEST: Liquid Nails vs. Epoxy
>
> -1- Liquid Nails, spread thinly with putty knife, on smooth
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