As Vinay says, gorilla glue does the job well, but I agree with you that it's too expensive . Here at Cabinz for glueing composite door off cuts with rigid foam cores, we use a much cheaper Pu glue like the gorilla stuff . It;s called Lumberjack by Everbuild. I use the 5 min stuff its less than £10 for 750 ml
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Everbuild-Lumberjack-Wood-Adhesive-Glue-750g-Waterproof-Polyurethane-5-Mins-NEW-/272794773464 There is an even cheaper option that does the job - Soudal PRO 45P Polypropylene PU, but it has a smell (lumberjack does not) the bond is maybe 10-20 % less effiecient imo Soudal PRO 45P Polypropylene PU www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-Soudal-PRO-45P-Polypropylene-PU-Water-Resistant-Wood-Glue-Adhesive-750G-Fast-/262175055261 My recent experiments with mgo board & metalclad (Door edge off cut / drywall) had a new Kingspan off cut core (80mm ). I used cheap (non fire resistant ) expanding foam from a spray can to join the foil backed board edges . Also sealing edges to reduce thermal bridge in the frame see www.cabinznet.blogspot.co.uk/2017/06/experiments-with-budget-6mm-mgo-panels.html I tried lumberjack Pu glue first, but where the foam was cut (it was new from a timber frame house building co) it has a slightly concave edge, so the Lumberjack pu could not quite expand enough to join the gape unless I wasted loads of it , nence I went to expanding foam. The generla disadvantage of the exp foam is that its more brittle than pu glue, so may fracture if put under stress. I tried all types of silicon sealant / liquid nails etc types before going over to pu glue. They worked but the bond was not nearly as good imo On Sunday, 27 August 2017 19:21:26 UTC+1, ken winston caine wrote: > > Yes, Vinay. It is supposed to be good with polyiso. Originally had > rejected it because of its cost and that it requires clamping. But think I > have solved the clamping issue. Have already bought about 240 oz. of Liquid > Nails for this project. But think I will run a small test with some Gorilla > Glue I have on hand. > > Was hoping to have this shell up by the time everyone gets back from > Burning Man, but because of a number of variations I am doing, it is going > to take longer. > > Am toying with a design for minimal 2x4 support for the roof that I may be > incorporating in coming days. It would require some notching in the tops of > the walls and would allow for an add-on OSB overhang for aesthetics, summer > sun blocking, and guttering/water catchment. If I can make that design work > in my head and on paper, adding the actual overhang and guttering will be a > next-spring project. As well as adding an additional roof coating then. > > Am "poor man's fiberglassing" the cut boards for added strength and > weatherization. Monday need to make calls to see if I can find a free or > near-free source of old bed sheets for that. (Hospitals? Hotels?) I don't > have nearly enough fabric (other than burlap bags that I've collected from > coffee grinders and they are too thick for this purpose). > > And do not have the budget for it now, but WISH I could afford to create a > French drain foundation for it. And know that later I will wish that I had. > But I've been wanting to build this thing for more than 10 years and I've > gathered enough of the pieces now to get it going and have two months of > mostly warm enough weather to be outside doing it. Have more time than > money right now. So am moving ahead with what I've got. Don't know what I'm > going to do for foundation drainage and to keep the eventual mud-clay floor > protected from beneath. > > But, Hi-Ho. It's underway. > > > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> > > <#CAM75gdPDyR6WeprsHHiBLNUkDEPVMErbaF8+O0EHQyJ6W6+Djg@mail.gmail.com_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 4:33 AM, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) < > [email protected] <javascript:>> wrote: > >> You might want to look at Gorilla Glue too. It foams up so it pushes into >> contours of the surface for maximum grip. Very useful. I suspect it's >> pretty much like liquid nails in other characteristics. >> >> V> >> >> On Sun, 27 Aug 2017, 03:06 D.V.Rogers <[email protected] <javascript:>> >> wrote: >> >>> If your project is permament why not go Ferrocrete? >>> >>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrocement >>> http://ferrocement.com/ >>> >>> You need the following; >>> Mortar Sprayer Oregon - http://www.mortarsprayer.com/ (you can also >>> hand trowel like stucco) >>> Permalath (BASF) - www.permalath.basf.com/ (or Chicken Wire) >>> >>> MIX: Three Sand to one Cement -3:1 Ratio >>> >>> *Portland Lime Cement Mix + Fibreglas Lathe Skin = 20year+ Hexayurt >>> >>> /dvr >>> >>> On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 2:18 AM, ken winston caine < >>> [email protected] <javascript:>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hunter: >>>> >>>> The "Fail" shown in the photos was with an unevenly broken polyiso >>>> board with quite ragged faces along the break. The successful followup >>>> test >>>> was done with clean-cut, smooth faces. That really does make a difference. >>>> But, still, you MUST clamp the repair, I have found. >>>> >>>> Unfortunately, I have quite a few small, ragged breaks that need to be >>>> repaired in my 40-some sheets of used polyiso. Continuing to work with >>>> Liquid Nails on those with less than ideal results. Liquid Nails works >>>> well >>>> on cleanly cut, smooth faces and spreads thinly with a putty knife (after >>>> laying out your zig-zag pattern of Liquid Nails). >>>> >>>> But, as mentioned in the "Fail" experiment, Liquid Nails does not >>>> "grab" and hold pieces together like a tacky adhesive would. You must >>>> apply >>>> the stuff to one surface -- spread it if you choose -- attach the pieces >>>> tightly and clamp them in place for 24 hours. >>>> >>>> UNRELATED CORRECTION: In the updated "success" test with Liquid Nails I >>>> said I would need to build 30-degree angle braces for clamping roof-cone >>>> pieces and (TYPO) 30-degree angle braces for clamping wall sections. It >>>> was >>>> supposed to say 60-degree angle braces for the wall sections. >>>> >>>> >>>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "hexayurt" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to [email protected] <javascript:>. >>>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] >>>> <javascript:>. >>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. >>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>>> >>> >>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the >> Google Groups "hexayurt" group. >> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/hexayurt/eJWdrlkJMTo/unsubscribe. >> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to >> [email protected] <javascript:>. >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected] >> <javascript:>. >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "hexayurt" group. 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