Alice wrote,
Hi Alice and spiders,
I think we had this thread already.
But anyway, we had a very hot and dry summer this year
with temperatures rising to 38 C with no relief in the evenings or nights,
I was just working on a Kortelahti pattern which took about a month to
complete. I never used
When working in warm/dry climate, it helps to replace the moisture in the
threads. I found linen threads breaking last month when I spent two long days
outdoors at DH's family reunion. That night I spread out my bobbins with
plastic underneath to protect the pillow, then laid a damp cloth over
i have been following this BREAKING thread also
it is a big problem
its even an enormous problem
but it is seldon a problem due to one factor
it is mostly a combination of more then one
have a look in depth in the problem
someone mentioned it already
colouring can do various dammage to threads/
I have been busy preparing a lecture and presentation about lace for our
local senior citizen club, and had no time till to day to follow the
breaking thread "thread".
I live in a very dry area in Israel, practically on the desert line. I never
had trouble with threads breaking or drying and h
Thbats ok, but just keep an eye on the pins as sometimes they can tarnish
and mark your lace, which I have found to my cost.
Maureen
East Yorkshire UK where it is currently raining
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I had a friend who took her honiton pillow into the bathroom when she had a
shower, and uncovered it, so the steam in the room kept her threads moist.
During a very dry weather spell, - Everyone in the family had to "shower with
her pillow", to stop the threads breaking!!
It became quite a family j
I am working on a buckspoint piece at the moment that has 15 ground pinholes at
the widest point. I usually divide it in half and work along that section and
then put the pins in. There is a square talley in the center of the triangular
shape so when I reach the talley I finish off all the sec
One more comment... One of the most memorable visual lessons I ever had
on the subject involved a roll of toilet paper! The teacher had someone
hold a roll on a stick, perfectly still, while she (the teacher) wound
the TP around another stick. Each wrap around the stick produced a
twist on t
I've recently acquired a copy of 'Bayeux Lace' by Marie-Catherine Nobecourt and
Janine Potin (from the Lace Guild second-hand books) which includes a
translation of the 'Manuel de la Dentelliere' written by Rose Durand in 1919.
On the first page of this it says
"Normally the pillow and its roll
From:
David C COLLYER
To: Sue Babbs
; Arachne
Sent: Wed, February 3, 2010
9:03:11 AM
Subject: Re: [lace] Breaking threads / tensioning
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arachnemode
I too was taught to pin as I went and I dont have the experience or the
expertise to do it any other way. I didn't no anyone could do it the way
David does and I suppose when you see the speed he works with those amazing
large pieces it does make sense, but for me too it has to be slow and stea
Above all lacemaking has to be enjoyable, so I stick with the slower
but (for me) more enjoyable rhythm of working.
That's fine - each to their own. As I use photocopies with contact
over them, I never find the need to "pre-prick" a pricking. But when
doing a long line of CTTTs, I simply prick
I pin in between pairs as I go, partly because that was how I was taught to
do it, and partly because I miss pinholes if I try to work down the line and
then put in the pins! I find it stresses me to work multiple CTTTs and then
pin them all. Above all lacemaking has to be enjoyable, so I stick
Dear Sue.
Incidentally, I was taught when learning Bucks Point lace, that it
wasn't necessary to tension the lace as one went, because the weight
of the bobbins (spangled midlands) should provide enough tension
with such fine thread. Rather one should keep the bobbins well
spread apart and s
-
From: "Sue"
To: "Sue Babbs"
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: [lace] Breaking threads
Thanks Sue, thats interesting but which way do I turn the bobbins to wind
it back? If I think of cross, cross rather than the twists which would
seem to be
Incidentally, I was taught when learning Bucks Point lace, that it wasn't
necessary to tension the lace as one went, because the weight of the bobbins
(spangled midlands) should provide enough tension with such fine thread.
Rather one should keep the bobbins well spread apart and swing the bobbi
One more suggestion. I believe you said you are working Point ground and
using cttt as the stitch, and are wondering if the problem may be as a
result of the thread coming untwisted.
I would suggest you examine each thread across the pillow. As you come to a
bobbin, push it gently up the pillo
Thank you for all your lovely helpful thoughts and ideas and I think I will be
able to get on without so much hassle now. Glad it helped others out there as
well.
It is always useful when someone asks you a question about how you work and it
allows you to think through what might be happening and h
Thanks Alex,
I did cut the top bit off and have a longish thread from the pin into
position to bring it back into the work. It was two different threads that
broke on different evenings and I think my winding of the bobbins was at
least partly to blame.
Last night I carried on and got through
Hi Sue
Certainly a lot of advice. However, another thought. When you tension do you
increase the tension gradually to the required strength or, and I have seen it
a lot in Sussex, do you tension and then give an extra tug? A sharp tug will
break a thread much more easily than increasing tension st
Hi Sue
Delighted you are enjoying my pattern but sorry you do not like this thread.
Of course you may change your thread to any you like but a thicker thread may
not work up as it should. About the trouble you are having with your threads.
Do you cut off 4 inches from the bobbin thread (NOT the r
Subject: Re: [lace] Breaking thread
The only other thing I can think is, how are you winding your bobbins?
Are you using a winder, or doing it by hand? If by hand, are you wrapping
the thread around the bobbin, or turning the bobbin in your hand to take
up the thread?
I am having exactly
Hi Sue -
Jane gave you good information which should help. The only other thing
I can think is, how are you winding your bobbins? Are you using a
winder, or doing it by hand? If by hand, are you wrapping the thread
around the bobbin, or turning the bobbin in your hand to take up the thread?
In message <60ac1333c39c49b88b1695bfdde38...@suzyf9f7c645ba>, Sue
writes
Anyway about 2 inches into the lace on a cloth stitch trail I ended up with
a loose bobbin and thread in my hands.
This time I know I am not pulling too
hard, not flying through the work, working quite slowly and steadil
Hello to all you fonts of all wisdom:-)
Over the weekend I began to make a bucks point hanky edge, using a pattern
from Alex Stillwells geometric lace book. I ordered and am using the
Egyptian Cotton 60 thread as mentioned in the book. I have previously
worked with the Eqyptian 36/2 and lov
Several years ago I heard Tim Parker speak about threads, from a
supplier's point of view. One thing I clearly remember him saying was
that one year when the cotton crop was poor and therefore commanding a
high price Madeira tried to offset the high price by using a
proportion of cheaper,
Breaking - snap, snap - or falling apart because the thread is untwisting?
I have seen this lots of times and Madeira is nearly always the culprit.
Colour seems to make no difference; in fact most people use the white thread.
Jacquie in Lincolnshire
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Sue Babbs wrote:
I am presently working with the International square bobbins and some of my
threads are unwinding so I doubt the square bobbins make much difference. I
am working with Oliver Twist silk which has an S twist. I do tend to flick my
bobbins so that might have something to do with
Alex Stillwell wrote:
There are several theories for threads breaking and some have already been
well explained by other members. However I have found that the working cloth
may be the answer in many cases. If your working cloth is at all rough then
the threads sliding across and back become wor
Dear Arachnids
The problem of threads that unwind and eventually part company is a common
one. Before you do anything else have you checked the strength of the thread
by taking an end in each hand and pulling until it breaks? Try it for other
threads and compare. If the thread is weak there is lit
Yes, threads do deteriorate over time. I was given
some old tatting thread
and half of it wasn't usable due to breakage when
trying to lace or tat with
it. Threw it out even though it was whole balls of
thread.
>
Mary
In SE Michigan where there is a weather alert.
ex UK
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Of Gray, Alison J
Sent: 29 November 2007 15:51
To: lace@arachne.com
Subject: [lace] Breaking threads
Dear Arachneans
I was wondering whether anyone has any experience of threads
deteriorating over time. I wa
There are two situations in which I sometimes have broken threads. The first
is when I go from working in a heavy thread back to the very fine threads of
Binche or Tonder. It often takes me a broken thread to ease up on the heavy
hand. The other situation is when there is a change in seasons.
Hi Alison,
Well, the possible culprits to your breaking cotton thread
1. A weak spot on the spool of thread
2. Some weird dye interaction, dark colors cause more problems than
light colors
3. Mechanical abuse, like inserting a needle into the thread on the
spool to keep track of the needle
4
Sometimes it is a question of the thread being too dry. Depends on where it
has been stored. I remember my first Honiton course where someone's thread
kept breaking. She was asked to fetch her facecloth, wetted and wrung out
as dry as she could, then lay it over her work. She then went for a
riginal Message -
From: "Gray, Alison J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: [lace] Breaking threads
I was wondering whether anyone has any experience of threads
deteriorating over time.
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Dear Arachneans
I was wondering whether anyone has any experience of threads
deteriorating over time. I was doing some mending last weekend with
some Sylko that I have had for some years. It must be over 10 years old
because I bought it to make some lace to go round the edge of a scarf.
It was
On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 09:34:51 EST, Patricia wrote:
>I have bought some UFO candle holders and prickings for insertions. As I
>intend these to be presents I decided to make the insertions in colours to suit
>the recipients. I bought a selection of Madeira Cotona 30 in what colours I
>could find
I remember hearing Tim Parker speak about threads at a lace day a few
years ago. At one point he was talking about the different types of
cottons and how good or bad growing seasons can affect the finished
product etc.
I can't remember which brand it was (if indeed he said), but one one
year
Over the years we have had many discussions about threads breaking and why
they do, the process of dyeing them being thought at the very least to be a
contributory factor.
I have bought some UFO candle holders and prickings for insertions. As I
intend these to be presents I decided to make the
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