Re: [lace] pins for wire lace

[Clay Blackwell]

I have several boxes, and I am fairly certain I hit them at my local quilt shop!

Clay

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:12 PM,   
> wrote:
> 
> Quick update--I have asked a friend in the quilting/notions supply business 
> about the Bohin #4 30x0.85 pins that Lauran recommended to see if she can get 
> them.  If anyone is interested, please contact me off list.  Sincerely, Susan 
> Hottle 

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Re: [lace] Pins in books

[Louise]

Dear Brian

There are a couple of pictures in Gertrude Whiting's old time tools and toys of 
needlework (Dover 1971)  the Venetian ones are glass headed some with spherical 
heads and others shaped as animals and birds p143 

On page 145 are East Midlands pins described as King pins, Bugles or Limicks

I can send you a scan if you wish

Best wishes

Louise

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Re: [lace] Pins

[Malvary Cole]

Kathleen wrote The pin question isn't the sort of thing that is 
taught - except that I was told always to leave pins in for 24 hours, to 
allow the thread toset in place.


I would make a couple of points - this is a question which crops up from 
time to time and usually generates lots of response.


First of all if working on a length of lace on a roller pillow (and less so 
on a block pillow depending on the size of both the block and the lace), 
pins do not stay in the lace for 24 hours, probably an hour or two if you 
are sitting at a long session of lacemaking.  Pins get taken from the back 
and put in at the front.


Secondly - lace isn't jelly, it doesn't need to set.

Thirdly - I agree that if I'm making a bookmark or motif I leave the pairs 
in round the edges - lace does shrink back a bit when the pins are taken 
out, so it makes more sense to take out the edges at the same time.


Malvary in Ottawa, Canada where we have heat warnings for the weekend - high 
temperatures, but even higher humidity. 


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Re: [lace] Pins

[Kathleen Harris]

Hi Sue, 
I don't belong to a class or group, so I have developed my own way of working 
over the years. I was curious about how other lacemakers worked. The pin 
question isn't the sort of thing that is taught - except that I was told always 
to leave pins in for 24 hours, to allow the thread toset in place. I have 
been persuaded to teach a friend to make lace, much against my better 
judgement! But she is an accomplished crafts woman in other fields, and is 
doing well. I have realised that this is the sort of thing that I must remember 
to tell her, and not just how to work the stitches!
Best wishes
Kathleen

Sent from my iPad

 On 18 Jul 2015, at 11:34, su...@talktalk.net wrote:
 
 
 I do the same as you Kathleen,
 Sue T in sunny Dorset UK
 
 www.hurwitzend.co.uk
 
 
 I was sitting at my lace pillow, moving pins from the back of my lace to my 
 pincushion, when I started wondering. How long do other lacemakers leave the 
 pins in their work? When making Torchon or Flanders lace,  I leave the pins 
 round the edge, and push them right down. I start to remove pins from the 
 back of the lace after working 1.5 - 2 inches. With finer or non-.geometric 
 lace I leave them in longer, and try to judge where I think the threads might 
 pull, so that I can guard against this. What do you all do?
 
 Best wishes
 Kathleen
 In sunny Berkshire, UK.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 
 

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Re: [lace] Pins

[Kathleen Harris]

I agree that you cannot always leave the pins in if working a narrow edging on 
a roller pillow. For that reason, I changed to a block pillow. But I do think 
that thread sets in its position in lace. If you come to your lace one morning, 
and find that you made a mistake the previous day, and take it back to that 
mistake, you will find that the threads have developed a kink round the pins, 
and have set into that place.  They will soon take up their new position, 
however. 

Whether the appearance of the lace is improved by the pins being left in for 24 
hours, or not, I do not know. But it can do no harm, when it is possible. 

When knitting has to be undone, and the yarn used for something else, it must 
be skeined, damped and hung up, weighted to straighten out the kinks resulting 
from thevpreviousvknitted stitches.

Kathleen

Sent from my iPad

 On 18 Jul 2015, at 14:01, Malvary Cole malva...@sympatico.ca wrote:
 
 Kathleen wrote The pin question isn't the sort of thing that is 
 taught - except that I was told always to leave pins in for 24 hours, to 
 allow the thread toset in place.
 
 I would make a couple of points - this is a question which crops up from time 
 to time and usually generates lots of response.
 
 First of all if working on a length of lace on a roller pillow (and less so 
 on a block pillow depending on the size of both the block and the lace), pins 
 do not stay in the lace for 24 hours, probably an hour or two if you are 
 sitting at a long session of lacemaking.  Pins get taken from the back and 
 put in at the front.
 
 Secondly - lace isn't jelly, it doesn't need to set.
 
 Thirdly - I agree that if I'm making a bookmark or motif I leave the pairs in 
 round the edges - lace does shrink back a bit when the pins are taken out, so 
 it makes more sense to take out the edges at the same time.
 
 Malvary in Ottawa, Canada where we have heat warnings for the weekend - high 
 temperatures, but even higher humidity. 
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Re: [lace] Pins

[Bev Walker]

Hello everyone

Some comments - I usually leave at least an inch-worth of pins in, not
really to let the lace set, but to mind the finished work against, for
example, tensioning too firmly and bunching the lace out of shape. Some
patterns have a particular passive that can be a culprit. If I notice which
one, it pays to intentionally work an anchor stitch with that pair and a
neighbour from time to time, to control matters.
Some patterns require more pins being left in for the above reason if the
ground needs to be kept stable.
On patterns with picots, I leave all the picot pins in place where possible.

When working on an edging either on a roller or on a block pillow, I wrap
the outgoing lace around something to 'mind' it - a small fabric cylinder
is good to have (they are nice lace event favours, too), or a small, smooth
flat piece of wood, in French, called a plioir. I wrap the edging lace
specifically to set it, intending that the width at the beginning is the
same as at the end. On a block pillow, I might pin the finished lace at a
few places on a posterior block, gently layering it on top of itself as the
work progresses.

-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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RE: [lace] pins

[Noelene Lafferty]

Wow, Alex, what type of lace are you using such fine pins on?

Noelene in Cooma

nlaffe...@ozemail.com.au

I have been using the Watkins  Doncaster stainless steel pins no.0. They
are the finest I have used and, although they are very long I have had no
trouble with them bending as they are very sharp and pass into the pillow
easily.  I also purchased nos. 00 and 000, two sizes finer. I will let you
know how I get on with them.

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Re: [lace] pins

[Clay Blackwell]

I also use those fine insect pins.  I make Binche lace, and when the long and 
very fine pins went out of production several years ago, I bought every 
(expensive!) vial of them that I could find.  So I still have a good supply, 
and guard them like Gollum my preciou)!

I discovered the insect pins were the same size, but have a plastic blob on the 
top.  I prefer the tiny metal heads.  So, to help stretch out my supply of 
Binche pins, I paint the tops of the insect pins with a dab of bright red nail 
polish.  I use these strictly for support (temporary) pins in my work.  I leave 
them in only until I have established the tension I want and have gone a few 
rows down.  Then the temporary pins, which are easily distinguished, are 
removed.

But, in all honesty, if you don't have access to the steel pins, these insect 
pins are a good choice!  Certainly better than using a pin that is too big or 
too short, and they are mot at all expensive if you purchase them from a 
scientific source that sells pins to bug collectors!

Clay
 
Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 25, 2014, at 5:13 AM, Noelene Lafferty nlaffe...@ozemail.com.au 
 wrote:
 
 Wow, Alex, what type of lace are you using such fine pins on?
 
 Noelene in Cooma
 
 Alex wrote
 I have been using the Watkins  Doncaster stainless steel pins no.0. They
 are the finest I have used and, although they are very long I have had no
 trouble with them bending as they are very sharp and pass into the pillow
 easily.  

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Re: [lace] pins

[Ilske Thomsen]

With my Chantilly as well as Binche laces with the Danish silk I used those 
insect pins too. But they weren't easy to find and expensive too.
At the beginning they aren't easy to handle.

Ilske

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RE: [lace] pins

[Alex Stillwell]

Hi Nolene

I’m using size 0 pins for Floral Bucks using 100/2 Egyptian cotton. I will
be using the 00 pins with 190/2 Egyptian cotton and finer. I bought the 000
pins to see what they are like to use – but I think they will be too fine;
they are like hairs.

Happy lacemaking

Alex

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Re: [lace] pins and thorns

[Linda Walton]

On 21/05/2011 22:57, Alex Stillwell wrote:
[snip]

I think we have had plenty of evidence that
thorns have been used as subsitutes for pins

[snip]

Sorry - I think I must have missed a bit among all these fascinating 
messages:  so what was the original evidence for the kinds of things 
used where we would use metal pins?  Where are they documented, please?


Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.,
  -  hiding from yet another day of strong winds).

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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[Alex Stillwell]

Hi Anna

You make a valid point.  This is why I like Arachne, we can pool our ideas 
and develop them.


Happy lacemaking

Alex



- Original Message - 
From: Anna Binnie l...@binnie.id.au

To: Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net
Cc: lace@arachne.com
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers


The point is well made. Pins have been around since the bronze age so the 
question begs to be asked why use thorns, fish  bones etc when you have 
access to pins. Now since lace making as we know it came into being around 
the 15th century (please correct me if I'm a bit early here), but pins of 
every variety were available at this time. I should point out that at this 
time they were relatively expensive since reference to pins is made in 
wills and dowries (only expensive items are so enumerated). BUT if you 
consider that some forms of early lace do not require many pins the 
problem is solved. By the time that the point laces came along, some 
experienced lace makers were NOT using pins on the ground BUT on the 
'pattern part only, so again a multitude of pins was not required. By the 
time lace makers were using hundreds or even thousands of pins the price 
of pins had dropped significantly.


Anna


On 21/05/11 7:30 AM, Alex Stillwell wrote:

Dear Arachnids

These ideas about using thorns and fish bones have been around for a long
time. Has anyone actually tried using thorns or fishbones to make lace? I 
mean

the very fine lace made at the time the thorns were supposed to have been
used. Did they work or not?

Regarding the type of thorn, they would have to be from plants found in 
the
hedgerowa at the time, not exotic ones like cacti. I'm not sure if 
pyrocantha

would have been found. Does anyone know?

There are many old wives tales around, but you have to try them to prove 
their

validity and not blindly perpetuate them. I have debunked several.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Alex

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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[Alex Stillwell]

Hi Robin

An interesting observation, thank you for letting us know. Does anyone have 
a photo of these lacemakers? and did the Biologist know what bobbin lace is 
or did she see some other form of lace being made using thorns as pins? 
Also, as you say, the lace was coarse, not made with the very fine linen 
used in 17th century. It's my science background that always asks for proof.


Happy lacemaking



- Original Message - 
From: robinl...@socal.rr.com

To: Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net; lace@arachne.com
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 5:35 AM
Subject: Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers



 Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net wrote:
These ideas about using thorns and fish bones have been around for a long 
time. Has anyone actually tried using thorns or fishbones to make lace? I 
mean the very fine lace made at the time the thorns were supposed to have 
been used. Did they work or not?-


Still not directly to your question, Alex, but I remember talking to a 
Brazilian biologist.  She was not a lacemaker, but she told me about 
seeing women in a certain part of Brazil that has a bobbin lace tradition. 
We found pictures of them using thorn pins.  It was coarse lace (not the 
stuff made with 240 cotton in early Europe), about like the modern Chinese 
designs in stores these days.


Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com




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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[The Lace Bee]

Pins have been around for a very long time but they have never been a cheap
item to purchase. 
 
A phrase that you may have come across is 'pin money' used these days to
describe a job that pays badly but in the Regency / Victorian period 'pin
money' was what was often left to someone to buy household essentials such as
pins.
 
Pins during the English Civil War period and the Restoration (mid to late
1600s) were often lengths of brass with a burr on the top to create the head
as even this extra bit cost more money.
 
I'm sure there are some references to pins and their costs in Romanze of the
Lace Pillow by Thomas Wright.
 
Pins as we know it are a complex thing to manufacture and this is why with the
commercial need for them dropping we have seen the gradual loss of certain
types of pin manufacture and pin manufacturers.
 
When I started making lace I was able to buy 3 bodkin pins which I used to
buy in packets of 10 from Hornsbys for about 2 or 3 pounds.  I would take any
large beads that I had and glue them just below the head to make divider
pins. 
 
About 10 years ago these pins became really rare and almost unobtainable after
the man manufacturer in the UK stopped making them because the market for them
had become very, very small and it was not commercial viable to make them. 
When I've ask bobbin makers what they are now using for the pin part of their
dividers that they turn, most are using thick needles.  One even told me that
they used to cut off the top of the pins in order to put them into the handles
they made so that needles were a better idea.
 
From a practial point of view, do you guys stop using bent pins?  If I was
looking to replace my brass pins with something else then I would need
something that was continuously available and was straight.
 
Fish bones are not that straight and they are either very flexible (so bendy)
when fresh or easily shatter when dried out.
 
Thorns are normally tappered towards the point which means that they can be
rather thick at one end - for me, this would cause problems if I was working
on very close work then the pins would start to crowd each other.  I think
that I would have problems fitting them all in.
 
L

Kind Regards

Liz Baker

thelace...@btinternet.com

My chronicle of my bobbins can be found at my website:
http://thelacebee.weebly.com/

--- On Sat, 21/5/11, Anna Binnie l...@binnie.id.au wrote:


From: Anna Binnie l...@binnie.id.au
Subject: Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers
To: Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net
Cc: lace@arachne.com
Date: Saturday, 21 May, 2011, 1:10


The point is well made. Pins have been around since the bronze age so the
question begs to be asked why use thorns, fish  bones etc when you have access
to pins. Now since lace making as we know it came into being around the 15th
century (please correct me if I'm a bit early here), but pins of every variety
were available at this time. I should point out that at this time they were
relatively expensive since reference to pins is made in wills and dowries
(only expensive items are so enumerated). BUT if you consider that some forms
of early lace do not require many pins the problem is solved. By the time that
the point laces came along, some experienced lace makers were NOT using pins
on the ground BUT on the 'pattern part only, so again a multitude of pins was
not required. By the time lace makers were using hundreds or even thousands of
pins the price of pins had dropped significantly.

Anna

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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[La]

The Brazilians do use thorns from a tree to use as pins.  They are very sturdy
and quite effective.  After a while, the blunt end tends to get a little mushy
and looks a little like a fuzzy top.  Some use bobbins that have had a nut
stuck onto the end of a thin stick.  I've tried to use this type of set-up and
it's pretty clumsy for me.  However, these ladies have perfected the
technique. They are quite tidy in their work.  
 
Laura Sandison
New Mexico,
USA

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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[Dmt11home]

In fact, I have often wondered if it wasn't some kind of technical or  
commercial development regarding pins that was responsible for the switch to  
point ground laces from those with Flemish or plaited grounds. Point ground  
laces take less time to make. If you have more pins than time, why not make 
one  ground stitch rather than four?
 
 
In a message dated 5/20/2011 8:11:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
l...@binnie.id.au writes:

By the  time lace makers were using hundreds or even thousands of pins 
the price  of pins had dropped  significantly.

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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[Anna Binnie]

The point is well made. Pins have been around since the bronze age so 
the question begs to be asked why use thorns, fish  bones etc when you 
have access to pins. Now since lace making as we know it came into being 
around the 15th century (please correct me if I'm a bit early here), but 
pins of every variety were available at this time. I should point out 
that at this time they were relatively expensive since reference to pins 
is made in wills and dowries (only expensive items are so enumerated). 
BUT if you consider that some forms of early lace do not require many 
pins the problem is solved. By the time that the point laces came along, 
some experienced lace makers were NOT using pins on the ground BUT on 
the 'pattern part only, so again a multitude of pins was not required. 
By the time lace makers were using hundreds or even thousands of pins 
the price of pins had dropped significantly.


Anna


On 21/05/11 7:30 AM, Alex Stillwell wrote:

Dear Arachnids

These ideas about using thorns and fish bones have been around for a long
time. Has anyone actually tried using thorns or fishbones to make lace? I mean
the very fine lace made at the time the thorns were supposed to have been
used. Did they work or not?

Regarding the type of thorn, they would have to be from plants found in the
hedgerowa at the time, not exotic ones like cacti. I'm not sure if pyrocantha
would have been found. Does anyone know?

There are many old wives tales around, but you have to try them to prove their
validity and not blindly perpetuate them. I have debunked several.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Alex

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Re: [lace] Pins, thorns and bone slivers

[robinlace]

 Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net wrote: 
These ideas about using thorns and fish bones have been around for a long time. 
Has anyone actually tried using thorns or fishbones to make lace? I mean the 
very fine lace made at the time the thorns were supposed to have been used. Did 
they work or not?-

Still not directly to your question, Alex, but I remember talking to a 
Brazilian biologist.  She was not a lacemaker, but she told me about seeing 
women in a certain part of Brazil that has a bobbin lace tradition.  We found 
pictures of them using thorn pins.  It was coarse lace (not the stuff made with 
240 cotton in early Europe), about like the modern Chinese designs in stores 
these days.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

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RE: [lace] Pins

[Diane Z]

In the US the Hawthorne tree has thorns about an inch.  I have one so I see
if I can struggle through the wild roses this weekend and take a look.  I
don't think the tree is in good shape as it has old man's beard moss growing
all over it.  If I get there, I'll clip the thorns.

Diane Z
Lubec, Maine

-Original Message-
From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of
Jean Nathan
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 1:02 PM
To: Lace
Subject: [lace] Pins

Rebecca wrote:

Does anyone know of a thorn that would work as a pin?

The longest thorn I can think of is on the Pyrocanthus bush, also known as 
Firethorn. Very effective as a boundary hedge to keep out intruders.

Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK

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Re: [lace] pins

[Sue Babbs]

My brass pins don't seem to have tarnished (or certainly not enough to 
bother me). I also have enough pins to keep me in my bent pins for many 
years, so I would not be interested in these gold-plated pins.


I stock up with pins for any pupils I have when I visit the UK, as I don't 
find that the pins I buy there come with blunt ends, which I find happens 
with pins bought in regular sewing supplies shops in the USA.


Sue

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RE: [lace] pins

[Sue]

I had a diagram on a spare piece of styrafoam that I followed with berry
pins when I first started to learn Bucks Point I remember several lacemakers
coming over to me at a lace day to see what I was doing with the berry pins.
It was a complete success and have taught a couple of others Buck Point
using this same method and they all were very quick in picking it up .

Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK

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[lace] Re: lace (pins) in fiction

[Tamara P Duvall]

On Aug 30, 2009, at 22:12, Su Carter wrote:

A No. 3 Broad-headed Extra Long would grace any true pinhead's 
collection.


-- Going Postal by Terry Pratchett

Su, recovering from her unexpected overdose of endorphins


To help you recover in a hurry... You owe me for a keyboard (and Mac 
ones don't come cheap) -- wine all over the place. I only gurgled 
through most of  the quotation (including the image of a microscopic 
cockerel on a pin's head) but the true pinhead's collection was just 
too much... Especially in conjunction with a similarly double-edged and 
textile-related term, used (though not by Pratchett, so far as I know)  
in reference to annoyingly stupid people: a pinprick.

--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)

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Re: [lace] Re: lace pins and finger tips

[Sue]

Well that is two of you suggesting this as a possible cause and although 
I have been using this pricker for several years I have had a new pin 
put in and it is further in than before.  Better for some things in 
preparing patterns but I wonder if the part of the pin in use is thinner 
than before.  It would be a good idea to check this out I think.  Thank 
you for you input:-) 
Sue T Dorset UK


Leonard Bazar wrote:

Another cure, from Mrs Perryman among others, so fine for Honiton, is to make 
sure the needle in your pricker is large enough - I assume you are using a 
pre-pricked pattern.  She recommends a size 8 for the standard 0.55mm pins.  
This does need a properly stuffed pillow if you're using a straw one, but there 
should be no problem with a polystyrene (or styro-whatever) one.  Some 19th 
century parchments have quite large pinholes, so presumably the workers relied 
on the pillows to hold the pins - after all, that's what happens in freehand 
lace!  If you are pricking as you go, it might help to use a pricker with a 
comfortable handle and pre-prick a few holes with it and then place your pins 
as you work.
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



  


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Re: [lace] pins!

[romdom]

le 13/11/05 23:09, Jo Falkink à [EMAIL PROTECTED] a écrit :

 We just have to be sure we don't leave any pins in the carpet.
 
 Alice in Oregon (previously [EMAIL PROTECTED])
 
 Seems impossible to me. We've been guests in the town hall for quite some
 time and they collected a box full of dropped pins.
 
 Jo Falkink


there 's a whole study to be made about the ability of pins to drop
unnoticed .
dominique aka romdom
-- 

Seize opportunity by the beard, for it is bald behind.
Bulgarian proverb

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RE: [lace] pins

[Panza, Robin]

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Method might be relevant,  so I say that I am using a big octogonal block
pillowThe bobbins, all spangled Midlands, lie flat on my pillow while I
work( ie hands-down).  

First of all, the threads looping over the top of the pins.  Part of the
problem is probably the fact that you're using such a flat pillow.  The
bobbins don't put tension on the thread, which would keep it from looping
over the pins.  I have an flat-topped octagonal pillow, but I raise the back
a bit to keep the bobbins hanging down.  Not so steep that they try to pile
up at the very center/bottom, just a bit to take advantage of gravity in
keeping the threads under tension.

If pin length were the problem, you'd have the same trouble when using your
longer pins pushed farther into the pillow.  Do you?  Anyway, pushing the
pins down to the surface of the pillow would keep the lace from riding up
and would make it harder for threads to catch on the pins.  Also, constantly
brushing your bobbins downward (towards you) would help to keep the threads
tensioned and unable to jump backwards over the pins.


  So I bought a box(actually, tube) of the long and thin pins.  When I
got them I was disappointed becuase there weren't very many of them (about
150) and they were so thin that they hurt my fingers when I pushed them
in.

The quilters have stick-on pads (one brand is plastic, another is thin
leather) that act like thimbles without the bulk.  This is great for pushing
in pins.  They also have something called the Nimble Thimble, which is a
very-thin-leather thimble with a metal plate embedded at the appropriate
spot.  More on your finger than with the pads, but still a lot less bulk and
bother than regular thimbles.  [Don't be confused by other leather thimbles
that are thick leather.  The Nimble Thimble is the one that is comfortable
for those who don't like thimbles.]


The only problem is that I find that the long and thin pins bend.  I bet
that about a third of them are severely bent!  I've been using my usual pins
for years and the most heavily used ones have only a mild bend.  

That's not a function of the length of the pin.  It sounds like your long
ones are insect pins, which are made of a metal that does bend.  I believe
Clover or Bohin make some pins that are thinner than .50, but of stainless
so they don't bend.  Insect pins and brass pins bend if not carefully placed
in a pre-pricked hole.


Also, because the holes are so very close together and hard to see, there
are times when I miss the prepricked holes completely and force the pin
thropugh the pricking.  

If you think you found the hole, but the pin isn't going through, then you
should recognize that you need to keep feeling for the hole.  That will save
your fingers from pain, your pins from bending, your pricking from becoming
a mess, and will make your lace more accurate (more beautiful when taken off
the pillow).

So what is going on here?  How do pins fit into the grand scheme of
things?  I mean, what is the theory about which types to use and how does it
all tend to work out in practice?  

Most people use finer pins for finer/denser lace, but I've never heard a
rule of thumb.  Maybe someone else will provide that.  Motif laces,
ornaments, and small circular edgings generally need the pins pushed down to
the pillow, because your threads/bobbins will come around to where the old
pins are in the way.  Therefore, short pins are good for those laces, so
they don't have to be pushed so far to get them flush with the surface, or
pulled that hard to get them out again.  I've not heard anyone say long pins
are better for something, but maybe someone will answer your question on
that count.


better now that I try to make the threads go under a pin.  I'm using my
usual pin since I don't have a hat pin and I still see great improvement.


Yes, guard pins can help keep threads under control, guiding them from the
lace to the stacked bobbins.  They would help you when using short pins,
too.

Robin P.
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
http://www.pittsburghlace.8m.com/

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RE: [lace] Pins

[Marcie Greer]

Aren't most high-quality (modern) stainless pins nickel-coated to
inhibit rusting?

Marcie

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RE: [lace] Pins in a Museum - England?

[BARRON]

try this Jeri and see if it looks familiar

http://www.britainexpress.com/counties/worcestershire/museums/forge-hill.htm

jenny barron
Scotland

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 30 June 2003 16:15
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] Pins in a Museum - England?


Dear Lacemakers in England,

Is there a needle museum in your country?

Perhaps one of you is familiar with whether they display pins in this
museum?
   Perhaps there is a Web Site?

Perhaps they have published a booklet on the history of needles and pins?

Was this museum on the tour i/c/w last year's OIDFA meeting in Nottingham?
I
recall the reference, so it cannot be too far back.

(From one who retains less than 1% of all she reads!)

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
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