No ... well, maybe ... but what I'd love to get my hands on is the original
wiring harness from a W123. Moron who owned my 240D prior to me clipped the
old one out when he put in a WalMart special radio.
On 12/11/05, Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Anyone need a nice Blaupunkt cassette
Saw the daughter tonight at her place of employment. [I don't think she
recognized me.] You have her driving a W123 and not the SL?
--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
He probably blocked out the images.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of George Gregory
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 2:10 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo
rumor has it that Tom wrote:
Look in the back ground on one of the photos nice 123 wagons and sedans
possibly for sale??/Tom
On 12/11/05, Hendrik Riessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://club123d.org/listings/page10.html
Wow, could that possibly be any uglier?
Alex Chamberlain
To all
On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and I
followed to observe. He was driving it like it was stolen but I never saw ANY
sign of smoke. I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never got to
80. To stay warm, I selected defrost and never got too
I'd still replace the thermostat, in spite of your kitchen test. That can be
the only variable here that I can imagine. Pretty cheap test. If nothing
else, you will have a spare working thermostat in your trunk.
I couldn't believe the difference when I replace mine about a year ago.
Don
On
I will replace the T-stat, I am making up my Rusty order right now. I'll
also test the old and new side by side on the stove, JFME :)
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I'd still
That or a dodgy temp sender/gauge. Does the radiator feel hot after going
for a drive?
Hendrik
- Original Message -
From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 12:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why is my 85 300 TD running cold?
Decided to plug in the block heater on my car (an '82 300D) tonight,
which I had never done before. Strung the extension cord out to the
car, plugged the block heater in, and was treated to a small, colorful
electric fire emanating from the vicinity of the radiator. I can hardly
wait until
I found a nearly identical car last year in Seattle for $600 but wouldn't take
$2500 for it now that all the bugs are worked out. Manual climate control is
wonderful. AC actually works. It's been an absolutely superb daily driver for
6 months now but may hand the keys to one of the kids
Harry,
The thermostat response is critically calibrated. A fraction of a
millimeter in valve position can make a big difference in coolant flow control.
Bruce
Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I will replace the T-stat, I am
making up my Rusty order right now. I'll
also test
Harry Watkins wrote:
To all
On the way back from buying it, my co-pilot drove the first 50 miles and I
followed to observe. He was driving it like it was stolen but I never saw ANY
sign of smoke. I drove it the last 300 miles and the temp gauge never got to
80. To stay warm, I selected
I've often wondered who this guy is. He is only known as
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
He has advertised in the Gateway MBCA Club Newsletter for a while. I
believe (at least originally) that the $25 included some kind of shop
service.
Perhaps Little Tommy, and area 123 Guru, has some insight into
On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 22:29:39 -0500 L.Mark Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Decided to plug in the block heater on my car (an '82 300D) tonight,
which I had never done before. Strung the extension cord out to the
car, plugged the block heater in, and was treated to a small, colorful
electric
On Fri, 9 Dec 2005 19:04:47 -0800 (PST) Christopher McCann
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought you swore by GE OTR 8932Q? Not available in the midwest (no
distributor), so I bought a case (4 gallons treats 4,000 gallons - for
gas stations) direct from the factory at wholesale price - they even
George Gregory wrote:
Perhaps Little Tommy, and area 123 Guru, has some insight into who this
might be or what its all about.
If I'm a guru, I weep for the future of the 123. I don't have much to
add that hasn't already been said, but that this is the first I've heard
of this club, and I'm
rumor has it that Tom wrote:
Read the W123 annoncement and you'll note the following:
All judging decisions are final and made by the Club 123D President.
On other words, no panel of judges.
Here's another humorous page - for next years W123 car show!
rumor has it that George wrote:
I've often wondered who this guy is. He is only known as
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
I scanned the front and back of the business card. But to make the fine
print readable the images is about 500K.
Is that too big to send to the list?
Philip, enquiring
His first name is apparently Vince, goes under the handle vlayton on the
w123-world.org forum.
Hendrik
- Original Message -
From: Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 limo going cheap
Hendrik Riessen wrote:
His first name is apparently Vince, goes under the handle vlayton on the
w123-world.org forum.
Well, switchboard.com does have a listing for a Vincent J Layton II in
St Louis.
My order has been placed. The car did start without it at 13°F, though
a tad reluctantly.
--mf
On Dec 11, 2005, at 11:26 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:
Sounds like you need to replace the cord that plugs in the block
heater and which you plugged into your extension cord. Call Rusty at
(800)
My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start. He broke the injector
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel. What might
cause this?
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi
Changed the subject
My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start. He broke the injector
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel. What might
cause this?
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black
maybe...but hard to tell as they are all 6 (years old, not feet) and under.
Kate (4) and Madeline (1) seem like that that...the rest are a bit
wall-flowerish.
Chris
Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris said she said...
She said, Well, if it's my car, I better know how to
hello gents.
i had planned on restoring this, but it has just been sitting and gathering
rust it is a 1980 203t; a european wagon, with a 4 cylinder 4 speed.
has 131k miles on it. body has some rust spots, definitely fixable. car runs
and will drive, but is unsafe to drive due to
Craig McCluskey wrote:
On Fri, 9 Dec 2005 19:04:47 -0800 (PST) Christopher McCann
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought you swore by GE OTR 8932Q? Not available in the midwest (no
distributor), so I bought a case (4 gallons treats 4,000 gallons - for
gas stations) direct from the factory at
Mitch, I am considering an inverter for the car to charge the scooter.
Charger uses only abt 2 amps, though.
Wilton
Luther,
There are several possibilities.
The 1975 uses a cable from the passenger compartment to turn the pump on
off. The cable is attached to a lever that is pushed foreward to turn the
pump off pulled to the rear to turn the pump on. The lever may be situated
in such a way that the pump is
Luther Gulseth wrote:
My work buddy came about a '75 300D that won't start. He broke the injector
lines loose and tried to start it, and 1 and 5 are getting no fuel. What might
cause this?
If the pistons on the #1 5 ports of the injection pump are stuck in
the up position (rust, gum or
My order has been placed. The car did start without it at 13°F, though
a tad reluctantly.
Sounds like you need to replace the cord that plugs in the block
heater and which you plugged into your extension cord. Call Rusty at
Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending
the
...body has some rust spots, definitely fixable.
Wow, 'some' rust spots? That's the east-coast perspective for you.
Probably be ours too in a few years, now that the fargging bastidges
are salting the roads around here. I think the lowly Frankenheap
had less rust than that, and it was a royal
http://f27.parsimony.net/forum66434/messages/21676.htm
Yes, the SL is put away for the salt season. She is not happy about
driving the lowly 240D.
At 07:21 PM 12/11/2005, you wrote:
Saw the daughter tonight at her place of employment. [I don't think she
recognized me.] You have her driving a W123 and not the SL?
--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K
I feel her pain.
On 12/12/05, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yes, the SL is put away for the salt season. She is not happy about
driving the lowly 240D.
At 07:21 PM 12/11/2005, you wrote:
Saw the daughter tonight at her place of employment. [I don't think she
recognized me.] You
I posted a message with the # to call to buy it and a PDF with all the specs
but it is being held by the moderator as it is too big (with PDF) to go
through automatically. If Kaleb lets it through, all the info is there and is
pretty easy to come by once you have their phone #...all in the
OK, the Benz now runs fairly nice with new glow plugs, new injector, new
fuel filters. A block heater from DieselGiant is on its way for the
colder winter days. But it seems another problem has developed.
The Benz (1980 300CD, auto trans) piddles transmission fluid onto the
driveway when it
Well boys and girls, yesterday I went to the Georgia Tax Commission's
website and looked up the local (Fayette County) tag office location, and
sent them the following email:
I'm coming in with my daughter on Saturday (December 17) to purchase a
1988 Mercedes-Benz 300E from a resident of Peachtree
Lee Einer wrote:
OK, the Benz now runs fairly nice with new glow plugs, new injector, new
fuel filters. A block heater from DieselGiant is on its way for the
colder winter days. But it seems another problem has developed.
The Benz (1980 300CD, auto trans) piddles transmission fluid onto the
In principle, it would be nice to meet up as soon as possible. At the same
time, we want to keep backtracking to a minimum. Bob will be heading straight
north...don't know if anyone west of Bob plans on coming.
I've got two ideas:
1. Sumas, WA (north of Seattle): Here is the link
Hey Tom
You know how to do it right, good job.
20 x 20 hind sight, I was legal and didn't know it.
Have a good round trip.
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans
- Original Message -
From: Tom Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending the
money. It may be that you can patch up the existing cord,
somebody could well have yanked hard on it and cut into the insulation on a
sharpish edge of sheet metal. Cutting the cord there and splicing it back
together
wilton strickland wrote:
Mitch, I am considering an inverter for the car to charge the scooter.
Charger uses only abt 2 amps, though.
If your car has a 70 or 80 amp alternator, it could probably handle that
with a 300W inverter. With the old 45 amp alt, I'd only do it on long freeway
trips.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 1:44 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices
** ** **
Marshall Booth wrote:
Are you SURE the transmission isn't overfilled (can only be checked
after driving for 15-20 minutes - will read low to VERY low if checked
cold - if filled to even the low mark when cold, it will be WAY
overfilled) and the vent (on top) isn't plugged? On some
Prices.txt
Url:
http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/
20051212/7c171ed1/TodaysDieselPrices.txt
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Boy oh boy, is this bum advice. The cost of that cord is
inconsequential.
The cost is not huge, no. (Though it is a significant percentage of the
cost of that car.) The _point_ of the advice, however, is not
inconsequential. Before just throwing money at a problem, it is
wise to actually
I hear you, but I'm suspicious. If you look back through the list,
prices here have been consistently $0.20 to $0.30 above the average. So
who's getting this diesel fuel for $0.20 to $0.30 below the average?
Ron
On Dec 12, 2005, at 4:04 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:
These prices are from the
My experience here in the north (at least compared to most of you folks) is
that the cord usually fails in one of two places.
1. The end with the plug where you plug it into the extension cord because
it is handled the most and hangs out of the car. Replacing the plug may be
an option but often
Ron,
Who's average? Your local average? These numbers are published by the
Government and they cover huge regions.
Up until the huge increase, I could always get diesel $0.20 cheaper along
the I-20 corridor than in Huntsville . Now diesel is running $0.30 cheaper
in Huntsville than along the
At 03:05 PM 12/12/2005, Jim C and then RLE wrote:
Well, a good eyeball examination is usually wise before spending the
money. It may be that you can patch up the existing cord,
somebody could well have yanked hard on it and cut into the insulation on a
sharpish edge of sheet metal. Cutting the
LOL!
On 12/9/05, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Yes, we have a Bush for president who causes global cooling, or
state-wide cooling, or is it warming in Canada relative to Arkansas and
other places.
I'm so confused I can't remember exactly which it is, but I do know it
is his fault
Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so,
do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not
any good pitfalls?
Thanks,
Constantine
I have trouble visualizing the banjo part...
On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
it with a hose of some type sticking out at a right angle. Hard to
miss.
Size depends on application -- the one for the
Some ND compressors need a pin wrench to counterhold the clutch so you
can remove the center nut, but others have no provision for the pin
wrench. In the latter case you can use channel-lock pliers. You'll
need the MB pulling tool that screws into the center of the clutch,
but some folks have had
http://www.prelube.com/powrlube500_drainhose.html
Chris
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have trouble visualizing the
banjo part...
On 12/11/05, Peter Frederick
wrote:
A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt that has a banjo shaped fitting under
it with a hose of some type sticking
Well, you know, I never said it would be cheap to fix or to own. I just said
one could likely acquire it cheaply and it is sort of unique.
One should look classy riding around in a Benz. One should look even
classier in a Benz Limo. Of course, one would need a driver so that one
could sit in the
Thanks for the photo. I am familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
bleepin' banjo. Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.
On 12/12/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://www.prelube.com/powrlube500_drainhose.html
Chris
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Thanks for the photo. I am familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
bleepin' banjo. Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.
The thing the bolt goes in is called a banjo fitting. The part that goes
around the bolt is the body of the banjo, the part
Scooter bat is 24v DC (2 12v lead/acid in series); charger input is 120v AC,
1.2 amp; output is 29.5v DC, 1.5 amp.
'Considering 300 watt inverter.
Wilton
I don't either, to be honest. I thought I knew what a banjo bolt was, until
the emphasis on the banjo part...so I googled an image to be sure. It is
what I thought, but I too fail to get the banjo part...maybe need to google
an image of a banjo and look at it for a long time till I see the
I've seen, I think, 120V converters that you plug into the lighter...is that
possible? I know NOTHING about electricity except + = positive and - =
negative.
Chris
wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Scooter bat is 24v DC (2 12v
lead/acid in series); charger input is 120v AC,
A lug nut does not look like a lug, but it goes on a lug.
Apply this to banjo.
On 12/12/05, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks for the photo. I am familiar with that bolt but still don't see a
bleepin' banjo. Then again, I have a pallid sense of imagination.
On 12/12/05,
The 617 engine never came with a manual shut off pump -- they are all
vacuum shutoffs. Pull the vac line on the canister at the rear of the
pump to verify it isn't holding vac, as it won't start that way.
Unlikely, but hey.
You can also remove the top cover on the IP governor and verify
Oh, also I forgot the most obvious and probably the actual problem
(silly me!). Replace the fuel lines between the steel pipe and the
suction side of the lift pump (on the side of the IP). These die of
old age, and leak under the fabric cover. You don't have the screw it
down to seal type
You will need a pair of snap ring plier to remove a couple snap rings
in order to remove the clutch bearing. The clutch plate will pop right
off, no tool required (you do need the tools to get the seal out).
Pulley presses onto the clutch, but I'm assuming you will get a new one.
Peter
You do know what a banjo is don't you?
Round flat thing with a tight drumhead and a neck with strings?
The banjo fitting is a round device with a large hole in the center and
a fitting on the side -- looks like a banjo (or a lolipop with a hole
in it).
The hose for whatever goes on the
Christopher worried:
At the same time, we want to keep backtracking to a minimum. Bob will be
heading straight north...don't know if anyone west of Bob plans on coming.
I really don't mind driving over to Okie-Q first as a starting point.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 144K
Litchfield Park, AZ
Tom wondered:
Who's average? Your local average? These numbers are published by the
Government and they cover huge regions.
Diesel is running from $2.559 to $2.319. It was $2.449 or so in CAL this
weekend.
Bio is stuck at $2.869 here.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 144K
Litchfield Park, AZ
Christopher McCann wrote:
I've seen, I think, 120V converters that you plug into the lighter...is that
possible?
For 1.2A at 120VAc it's possible, you'd probably need 14g wiring and a 20A fuse
for
the lighter socket. (or wire up a heavy duty power outlet w 20A fuse)
I much prefer the name lollipop bolt. I think I'll use that from
now on and try to get it established. ;)
On 12/12/05, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
You do know what a banjo is don't you?
Round flat thing with a tight drumhead and a neck with strings?
The banjo fitting is a
Yeah, it's VERY hard to find online...had to make a few phone calls. Order=
from this lady at GE. Right now, I think you can only buy 1 case at a tim=
e (treats 4,000 gallons). Very cheap, though. I would be MORE than happy t=
o sell one or two of my gallons (at cost) as long as you pay
Constantine N. Polites wrote:
Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so,
do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not
any good pitfalls? =
I've attached the pages from the 201 manual that describe removal of the =
clutch from a Nippondenso compressor. It's essentially the
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