Marshall Booth wrote:
Kevin J. Slater wrote:
Ok, maybe I misstated what I did. I'll pulled the connector from the
temperature switch on the thermostat housing and I shorted the
sockets that connect to the pins on the temp sensor. This made the
fan kick on. Are you saying it shouldn't have?
That car actually has none of the available options for that year. It's as
cheap as you could buy one. Does not even have the glass sunroof - which in
Florida is the sign of a true tightwad.
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
On 4/13/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> eBay # 4629081300
and yet striplin doesn't sound TOO jewish to me.
On 4/13/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I am quite the jew.
>
> George Gregory wrote:
> > On 4/13/06 9:25 AM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>You need the whole arm?
> >
> >
> > Happy Passover, Kleb!
>
My starter keeps working without a problem. It was acting up earlier. I
bought a reman. one, but didn't have the allen key to replace it. But I
haven't had the problem in a couple weeks now.
The plastic cap on the end of the solenoid is loose. I wonder if my rattling
it around has allowed it to ma
eBay # 4629081300 is for a 95 S350D with 187K miles but no mention of ever
having major engine problems. Is it possible this car is one of the very
few without the dreaded con rod problem? It's a nice looking W140 -
appears
to be loaded with all options.
There is no such thing. They ALL had
eBay # 4629081300 is for a 95 S350D with 187K miles but no mention of ever
having major engine problems. Is it possible this car is one of the very
few without the dreaded con rod problem? It's a nice looking W140 - appears
to be loaded with all options.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB,
I am quite the jew.
George Gregory wrote:
On 4/13/06 9:25 AM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
You need the whole arm?
Happy Passover, Kleb!
(you must be Jewish, you ALWAYS answer a question with a question.)
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300
It just pulls the linkage a bit to give a faster idle -- otherwise they
tend to stall when very cold.
It does not affect injection timing in any way, unlike the cold start
device on the VE rotary pump on the Volvo -- that is responsible for
many cases of early engine wear because it DOES advan
Andrew S. wrote:<< it stalls with a cold engine).>>
Howdy -
My '78 240D has a knob on the dash which advances the IP somewhat for cold
starting (at least that's what I think it's doing) and once the engine is
running smoothly, the knob is turned back putting the IP timing at its
proper place.
Perhaps I will go see Dirty Harry...
If I find a good board it will "make my day".
(Couldn't resist)
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: "lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Weeping S
Hi Jim,
It's amazing what using the right tool will do! When my wife
understood this she no longer gave me grief when I buy tools! She's seen
me fight something for a day or 2 only to see me use the proper tool and be
done within 15 minutes! A true believer. But by proper tools I don't
On Thursday 13 April 2006 1:21, Bob Rentfro wrote:
> If the
> blower
> only runs in defrost, it could be a bad servo."
It could also be that the circuit board gizmo behind the glove compartment has
gone bad. I tried re-flowing the solder on mine, to no avail.
Bob, I would recommend taking a
I have the exact same symptoms in my '83 300SD with a freshly resoldered push
button unit. I'm interested now.
~Mr. Jim typed:
~
~"Is that the aluminum housing servo I sold you a while back?"
~
~Yes it is. It served me well last summer. What do you reckon Murphy would
~charge for a rebuild
What, he's supposed to give a straight answer? What kind of man would he
be?
Shalom to all!
On 4/13/06, George Gregory <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On 4/13/06 9:25 AM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > You need the whole arm?
>
> Happy Passover, Kleb!
>
> (you must be Jewish
It is way important to replace the plastic clips holding the injector lines.
If you do not, the lines vibrate and will crack. Learned that one the hard
way
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
On 4/13/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/13/2006 10:18:30 A.M. US
On 4/13/06 9:25 AM, "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You need the whole arm?
Happy Passover, Kleb!
(you must be Jewish, you ALWAYS answer a question with a question.)
--
+--
GG
1997 SL500 (101k)
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm
http://homepage.mac.com/denea
Huh, I had no idea anything could be found at "Ace" that would work in such
a particular application. I'll have a look see, Thanks for the tip.
Regards
Steve
"85" Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K
"79" 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild
"94" Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K
"82" TD project wagon
Thanks Mike. As it turns out having been 'professionally maintained'
[except for sending it back without enough oil to start it] and, it seems,
kept inside, as soon as I added more oil than I thought it needed it started
up easily. I have kept a copy of your post for when this amateur does the
ma
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-- next part --
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Siz
MathieuThank you...Thats what I was looking for. I do stuff rags down
in that chain cavity in accordance to Murphy's law :-)
Regards
Steve
"85" Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K
"79" 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild
"94" Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K
"82" TD project wagon
"64" VW Bug
"6
Thanks - saved that one.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 1:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 300SDL ALDA adjustment
thanks for all the info so far...now, is it possib
Well I'm an old guy too so waiting for you to kick off might not be an
option :-D
Maybe some body remembers that post about a clip from another engine being
used to pull the chain through, I was gona call Rusty and get oneOh
well, shoulda, woulda, coulda
Regards
Steve
"85" Euro 2
Bob
Oh the old servo.
Once a week, summer winter or when ever put Auto II system on defrost and
turn the temp reostate to full heat 85 degrees let it run for about 5 to 10
minutes. This is the best maintenace for these. Opens the unit up full and
helps to keep her from sticking. I have run
Mr. Jim typed:
"Is that the aluminum housing servo I sold you a while back?"
Yes it is. It served me well last summer. What do you reckon Murphy would
charge for a rebuild?
"What happens when the blower dies and you push defrost? Defrost should
bypass the servo and put the blower to full
In a message dated 4/13/2006 8:57:34 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My wretched ACC servo has crusties built up around its base. Is it toast?
Here is why I ask:
Since it was 93 yesterday, I tried the AC (for the first time since Feb) and
it works fine (50 degre
Is there a good way to tell if its been converted to 134?
It's supposed to have different fittings screwed into it.
Another way is if the system fails grotesquely in a year or two.
If so, it was converted! (Yes, I have an opinion. I un-converted
the latest 560 SL we bought.)
-- Jim
Bill,
Like I said in a previous post you will want to remove the shroud and
clean the rust off from the flywheel and coil so that it can create the
spark.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: "BillR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday
My wretched ACC servo has crusties built up around its base. Is it
toast?
They aren't supposed to leak. When they do, fluid gets into bad places.
Sorry, dude! "Don't cry for me get the checkbook..." [Evita]
I still think there is a room somewhere in one of Chrysler's office
buildings where
What is the most likely way to test for bad trailing arm links
When I needed a definitive test I just unhooked them and went for
a spin down the driveway. All you're losing is the rear sway bar,
so it's not like you're going to spin out in a wall of flame at 5MPH,
but I would avoid driving at a
Could someone confirm for me which hose is which? I.e. I don't
suppose that
nice easy to reach hose on top of my 83' 300D happens to be the low
side?
It is, in fact. The high-side fitting is underneath the alternator.
(Stupid place!) When in doubt, follow the hoses from the compressor.
The o
Funny you should mention the Challenger, I was lucky enough to snap some pics
at the Chicago Auto Show. all I can say is.. awwsome!!
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From: Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PR
In a message dated 4/13/2006 10:18:30 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
thanks for all the info so far...now, is it possible to get to the adjusting
screw without removing the unit? a quick look at it last night looked
doubtful...
On the 603 engines, I think Dav
They look like someone did a hatchet job on them, all those squared off
corners.
eeek! its retro 80's again!
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discu
OK, that will require a bit of cleanup as the cam cover leaks at the back and
the block is not too clean back
there.
Thanks for the response.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Ervine
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 12:42 PM
To: Me
F*rd seems to have the same problem too, see how many different names they can
make out of one body style. No matter what they still look like bread boxes on
wheels
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata
-Original Message-
From
In a message dated 4/13/2006 8:15:29 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Where does one get one of these temporary "clip" links. I have done several
T chains and its a PIA to do and undo the regular master link. I remember a
post sometime back about using a clip styl
Do you have to use different hoses? Was reading up on it and some
people are saying that you need different hoses because it has R22 in
it. Freeze12 is R134 mixed with I think 142 or something like that.
Fmiser wrote:
At some time fairly close to Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:23:13 -0500,
rumor has it
No, I intalled it by weight.
Joe Knight wrote:
I'm wondering if you maybe didn't just overcharge with duracool,
Kaleb. IIRC, quantities & charge pressure are supposed to be
considerably lower with HC replacements.
joe
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new pa
Ohh, that sucks, Tom. Sorry to see that. Hope you can enjoy the 333,333 mark
anyway. I always wonder about those pieces of semi tread. One more reason I
don't ride a motorcycle anymore.
Brian
83 240D
On 4/13/06, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> if you have 33 miles, make sure you've
This is an odd one...first time I've gotten one where something besides
ebay/paypal/amazon was used.
I hope these people get caught and share a prison cell with a large, smarmy
being who uses them as their bee-hotch
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent:
Order a master clip for an m100 car (p/n 0009970598). It will work just
fine. Also, I place many rags in the chain cavity so that if something
should fall, it will land on the rag or fall outside of the motor. This
is critical to do when grinding/breaking the old chain as well as
covering the c
Low side is larger diameter...
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] R12 replacement
Speaking of AC...
Could someone confirm for me which ho
R A Bennell wrote:
Where, do I look on the engine in my 76 300D for the number on the engine? I
plan to order some stuff from Rusty
and one of the items wanted the engine number which I did not have at my finger
tips. I popped the hood last night
but did not see anything obvious on the block.
I have one from an old chain, back in the days when it was supplied as
part of the replacement. I got it from a real old timer, and I am an
old timer too. So mine's pretty old. And worn. But it works.
You need to find a benevolent old timer. I will put you in my will,
you can have mine when I
At some time fairly close to Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:23:13 -0500,
rumor has it that Kaleb wrote:
> Ok, so whats the best alternative to R12 rather than converting to 134?
> Tried duracool and last time I ordered it stuff didnt seem to work
> hardly at all. Have a couple of virgin r12 systems that
thanks for all the info so far...now, is it possible to get to the adjusting
screw without removing the unit? a quick look at it last night looked
doubtful...
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Apr 13 17:18:42 2006
Received: from wnpgmb02-group-smtpout.mts.net ([142.161.130.102]
helo=mx-mtaout01
Oh, I'm learning all sorts of lessons with this
project! ;-(
But as someone said. at the end, I'll know everything
there is to know aobut timing chans.. (which was
really the goal of the project anyway... I told myself
a few weeks ago, I could either pay some shop almost
what I paid fo rhte car
On Apr 13, 2006, at 10:45 AM, BillR wrote:
Thanks John. Though now that I have started it I don't' think I
will need
an electric start [another reason for the wife to keep me
around!]. Turns
out the whole problem is that the machine came back from the
service center
with [it would seem]
Speaking of AC...
Could someone confirm for me which hose is which? I.e. I don't suppose that
nice easy to reach hose on top of my 83' 300D happens to be the low side?
Mine had R134 when I got it and I just bought a can and a hose with a gauge
on it for $17 that says to be sure I avoid the high s
I'm wondering if you maybe didn't just overcharge with duracool,
Kaleb. IIRC, quantities & charge pressure are supposed to be
considerably lower with HC replacements.
joe
I would opt for a bad half axle. My '82 CD has various clunkings that come
from the rear at different times. The Sway-bar bushings are bad, and they
clunk when I go over bumps, even the smallest. My left axle shaft clunks at
times, purely random and not constant. It can go away for 1,000 mil
Bob Rentfro wrote:
My wretched ACC servo has crusties built up around its base. Is it toast? Here is why I ask:
Since it was 93 yesterday, I tried the AC (for the first time since Feb) and it works fine (50 degree air out of center vents) for about 15 minutes then it somehow fails in like a mid p
Hey Kaleb,
Try this stuff:
http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/envirosafe_tech.htm
:)
-dm
> --
> Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:23:13 -0500
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] R12 replacement
>
>
> Ok, so whats the best alternative to R12 r
Marshall Booth wrote:
Marshall Booth wrote:
Tarek Elshenawy wrote:
Hell I get 550 to a tank in my 87sdl
The 126 has a 90 liter tank. That's 23.78 gallons. Even at 25 mpg,
that's 594.6 miles! If you can squeeze 27 mpg out, that's 642.2 miles.
LOVELY car to cruise across the the country.
Mar
My 1985 300CD has sat all winter as various other projects and money
commitments have preceded it. As the weather has started to warm then I have
started to look at it again. While I have been working on some vacuum issues,
I took it for a drive yesterday and again today and I believe that vac
My wretched ACC servo has crusties built up around its base. Is it toast? Here
is why I ask:
Since it was 93 yesterday, I tried the AC (for the first time since Feb) and it
works fine (50 degree air out of center vents) for about 15 minutes then it
somehow fails in like a mid position where I g
if you have 33 miles, make sure you've applied for your 500,000km badge
from MB USA
On 4/13/06, tom savage <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
>
> > You need the whole arm?
>
> Yep. The tread actually impacted the arm and not the windshield; it is
> all bent up and embedde
Forgot to put in my other note, there should be a wire off the side of the
block somewhere that will disable the switch. I would guess there aren't alot
of wires hanging out so it should be relatively easy to find.
-Curt
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 07:49:54 -0400
From: "BillR" <[EMAIL PROT
I think you've just learned a valuable lesson.
Remember when you were pricing timing chains and somebody told you not to
cheap out and the get the cheapest you could find? The same is true with
manuals...
-Curt
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 23:18:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: hue wong <[EMAIL PROTE
Aww geez, now that you mention it I've seen that on good Honda gens before too.
I worked one summer in construction and we had 4-5 Honda gens where the oil
level switchs were forever going bad. Since I didn't routinely show up to work
drunk I would get assigned to check oil levels at every break
I'm in pretty much the same boat, my 190D's AC gets sort of cool but thats it,
I expect its low.
Is there a good way to tell if its been converted to 134?
-Curt
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:23:13 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] R12 replacement
To: Merc
cool
Donald Snook wrote:
1982 Olds 98 diesel with GM Goodwrench Diesel replacement engine on
ebay.
[http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=462895702
4&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ADS%3AMT%3A28]
Ebay item # 4628957024
Donald H. Snook
1990 300SEL 126K
1982 Olds 98 diesel with GM Goodwrench Diesel replacement engine on
ebay.
[http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=462895702
4&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ADS%3AMT%3A28]
Ebay item # 4628957024
Donald H. Snook
1990 300SEL 126K
Thanks John. Though now that I have started it I don't' think I will need
an electric start [another reason for the wife to keep me around!]. Turns
out the whole problem is that the machine came back from the service center
with [it would seem] not enough oil to let it start more than once, as I
Sent early this morning on [EMAIL PROTECTED] It's good news for us!
Luther
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], girl mark
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Here's the update on the IRS view of homebrewers and the federal excise
tax. It's good news- the 400 gallon per quarter exemption from paying
the federal ex
You need the whole arm?
tom savage wrote:
My car just turned 333,333 miles. Most people would take a picture to
celebrate. Alas, I did this instead: http://thomas.savage.org/smashed.jpg
Big piece of flying semi tire tread. Hey Kaleb, how much for a new
wiper arm assembly?
Be careful out
How strange...the mileage thing I mean.
I just went through 151515 yesterday.
No tread, however.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 151K
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: "tom savage" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes mailing list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 7:10
Jim Cathey wrote:
Have I drank too much cheap beer tonight, or is there some
significance to
all the color?
No doubt, but it's not advertised. The drivelines I took out of
the 201 cars have nice broad colorful bands painted on them.
-- Jim
I forgot about drive line parts. I've seen them th
My car just turned 333,333 miles. Most people would take a picture to
celebrate. Alas, I did this instead: http://thomas.savage.org/smashed.jpg
Big piece of flying semi tire tread. Hey Kaleb, how much for a new
wiper arm assembly?
Be careful out there,
Tom
Marshall Booth wrote:
Tarek Elshenawy wrote:
Hell I get 550 to a tank in my 87sdl
The 126 has a 90 liter tank. That's 23.78 gallons. Even at 25 mpg,
that's 594.6 miles! If you can squeeze 27 mpg out, that's 642.2 miles.
LOVELY car to cruise across the the country.
Marshall
That 23.78 ga
Humid down there most of the year isn't it? The points almost undoubtably have
some crud on them.
Pull the flywheel off, take some fine emery cloth and touch up the rust which
has probably developed on the magnets. Then find the points and either come up
with a points file and clean 'em up or
Have I drank too much cheap beer tonight, or is there some
significance to
all the color?
No doubt, but it's not advertised. The drivelines I took out of
the 201 cars have nice broad colorful bands painted on them.
-- Jim
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Was just under the 240 and I discovered a peculiar thing. On the rear coil
spring are bright red and blue marks, or paint (perhaps the whole spring is
red, but there was also a blue mark), hard to tell, as I didn't wipe clean
the entire thing. Up above, on the metal that surro
On Apr 12, 2006, at 8:08 PM, BillR wrote:
Also - Does anyone know if there is a kit to convert this to an
electric
start? I know that was an option when this was new, but I believe
now that
Homelite is a part of John Deere and not a separate company. Not
sure where
to look for something
On Apr 13, 2006, at 7:49 AM, BillR wrote:
Thanks Jim. I will recheck the oil level [and buy a funnel this
time]. I
put more oil in than I took out, and it has not run since it was
serviced.
I have heard enough comments here about jobs not done correctly
that I will
not assume the servic
Thanks Jim. I will recheck the oil level [and buy a funnel this time]. I
put more oil in than I took out, and it has not run since it was serviced.
I have heard enough comments here about jobs not done correctly that I will
not assume the service was done correctly.
BillR
-Original Message
There is an oil level switch, but I think the oil level is as it should be -
a bit more than came out, I think. Took a quart minus the amount I spilled
trying to pour it in without a funnel [not too much]. Another note to self
would be not to give all my tools away.
I make the assumption I can t
Jeff Zedic wrote:
>
> I think MOST of the GM line-up is hideous. All those right angles and
> high riding bodies..too vanilla for me thank you very much!
How about those Caddys with the tall door sheetmetal, there is so
little room for glass that the windows end up looking like gunslits
on a
Was just under the 240 and I discovered a peculiar thing. On the rear coil
spring are bright red and blue marks, or paint (perhaps the whole spring is
red, but there was also a blue mark), hard to tell, as I didn't wipe clean
the entire thing. Up above, on the metal that surrounds where the spring
Chilton!!! I curse you!!! ( just looked and both
my manuals are chiltons)
Rat bastards That step is missing in both
books!!
--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > What? None of these cheap damb manuals mentioned
> this
> > in the procedures [EMAIL PROTECTED] i
What? None of these cheap damb manuals mentioned this
in the procedures [EMAIL PROTECTED] it!
Step 3 in the '79 300D engine manual: "Remove tensioner"
Step 1 in the 201 602 engine manual: "Remove tensioner"
-- Jim
warming up?] The power light does flash a time or two, but nothing
resembling a cough or a fire.
On my 'cheap' liquidation generator the power (kill) switch only
flashes when it's shorting out the ignition due to low oil level.
Check that. (Sensor could be bad, too.)
-- Jim
I think a 30lb equivalent of R406a is about $200 delivered. The two can
kit is way high, something like $50 for two cans, tapper, and fittings.
Homebrew is about $8 per fillup. Right around what you used to
be able to do R12 for.
-- Jim
I think MOST of the GM line-up is hideous. All those right angles and
high riding bodies..too vanilla for me thank you very much!
Everytime I see one go by I can't help but think they're damned ugly! No
wonder they're in trouble.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD
In a message dated 4/12/2006 4:26:57 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
So we just pulled the new timing chian from rusty
through following the procedure outlined in the
book(s) and darned it, it seems one link short.
Now I'm all freaked out. Did I somehow miss a
spro
Hell I get 550 to a tank in my 87sdl
sn
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 9:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SDL Mileage
Well - you almost drove by my house then
Zoltan Finks wrote:
You are so right on the Aztec.
I think the Malibu Maxx's back end must have been designed by the same
group that did the Aztec.
On 4/11/06, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> In some cities I've
> visited recently, 123 ownership is not so rare - such as the Santa Barbara
> region. You can pretty much look around at any given moment and maybe 3 or
> 4
> times out of 10 see one. Must be the bio diesel phenomenon. I b
Zoltan Finks wrote:
I bet it's the
same up in the Seattle area, and some regions of Oregon?
In Michigan it was rare to see other diesel Benzes. Now that I'm living
in the Seattle area I see them almost every day. A high proportion seem
to be non-turbo, though; I've only seen a handful th
"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
>
> Ok, so whats the best alternative to R12 rather than converting to 134?
Autofrost R406A?
I think Duracool and Envirosafe are among the propane/isobutane blends.
Jim Cathey seems to like him homeblended iso/propane nix, maybe it's
just too hot where you are? As deman
Hue,
Mathieu has the right approach to determining your present situation
and effecting whatever cure you need.
However, I have routinely changed several chains w/o removing the
tensioner, found it simply not necessary. Unlike tensioners in other
engines, mine were not ratcheted, but only spring
Ok, so whats the best alternative to R12 rather than converting to 134?
Tried duracool and last time I ordered it stuff didnt seem to work
hardly at all. Have a couple of virgin r12 systems that need to be
recharged and want to try something else? Freeze12? Dont think I like
the envirosafe
BillR wrote:
>
> I pulled the plug and it seems there is no spark.
Might be a bad coil, shorted kill switch, or if it has
an oil level switch it might be that too. Is the oil
level all the way full?
My '90 300D 2.5 got 34 mpg on a round trip to Abluquerque - includes
climbing from 1100 ft. to 7000 ft. Zero oil consumption - only 245,000
miles on the car ---
On 4/12/06, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ok diesel heads, check this out. I just went to South Georgia this past
> weekend
Well - you almost drove by my house then -- I'm in Norman.
We frequently attend non-USPS events at the Postal Training Center ---
On 4/12/06, James Jetton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Kaleb,
> It was one of those in and out training sessions for the Postal Service. Not
> a lot of free time, I ha
Saw an old FJ55 Iron Pig today down in Santa Fe. Now THERE is a retro
landcruiser I wouldn't mind having...
Lee
Hue,
First off, pull the tensioner and see if you have enough slack to line
up the chain. Next, I would install a temporary master link, the one
with the circlips (make sure one of the clips doesn't fall into the
motor), next reinstall the tensioner (you will likely have to reset the
pin in t
On Apr 12, 2006, at 7:26 PM, hue wong wrote:
So we just pulled the new timing chian from rusty
through following the procedure outlined in the
book(s) and darned it, it seems one link short.
Now I'm all freaked out. Did I somehow miss a
sprocket in there? could it be the chain tensioner
push
Keep tension on and remove the tensioner. The chain should give enough so
you can connect the ends.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webe
well damb!
So what would be your advice if this was tried with
the tensioner in.
I suspect I've done a doosy on this! lord
Trial by fire, will make me a desiel mechanic yet!
zoiks!
--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> hue wong wrote:
> > So we just pulled the new timing
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